Solent weekend

Clive Loughlin plans a mid-tide weekend circumnavigation of the Isle of Wight Time for a circumnavigation

Having previously planned weekends in the Solent based around neaps (ST October 2021) and springs (ST May 2022), this article is based on a trip roughly mid-way between springs and neaps. e idea is that someone with a berth up the River Hamble arrives at their home berth on Friday a ernoon, and needs to be back there by Sunday a ernoon. With relatively minor variations it should also work for those with berths anywhere within the Solent area.

Time for a change?

While the previous weekends have aimed to exploit the opportunities provided by reduced (neaps), and enhanced (springs) ranges in tidal height, this weekend is all about the timing of the change in direction of the tidal streams. e timings of high and low water at springs and neaps are always the same within about an hour, and change predictably each day between springs and neaps – so what follows should work for dates midway between springs and neaps, or a few days either side. e tidal range in terms of height and rate are more modest than at springs and this gives us a bit of tolerance regarding contrary tidal streams and windagainst-tide conditions.

I leave it to you to do the necessary passage planning, pilotage and secondary port tidal height calculations for your speci c adventure.

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Getting the tide right as you round the Needles is key to an enjoyable circumnavigation

Planning

As always my starting point for passage planning is to make multiple copies of the Solent Tidal Stream pages from the almanac and then ll in the times (I prefer to use BST) so I have an hour-by-hour snapshot of what is owing where for the whole of the weekend. is particular passage plan starts on Friday 1 July 2022. is happens to be only one day a er springs, but the plan should work for any weekend that starts a few days a er springs, and with everything getting later by about 30-40 minutes each day, some of the tidal-gate timings get even more user-friendly than on this particular occasion.

Circumnavigation

e main aim for this weekend is to circumnavigate the Isle of Wight in an anti-clockwise direction, and assumes that the wind is from the prevailing south west. e southern half of the island has no harbours and precious little shelter, but it does provide spectacular views and the opportunity to venture slightly o the beaten track on a route less travelled. e passage plan is all about what is owing where and when, and the aim is to sail the southern half from the Needles, past St Catherine’s Point and on to Bembridge Ledge with the tidal stream helping us on our way.

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Getting 'rescued' by the coastguard in mildly challenging conditions

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e Solent can get very hectic - not least if you get tangled up in a race

e total distance from the Needles to Bembridge Ledge is about 30nm. If we get our timing right we should gain about 1 knot from the tidal stream, so a yacht of modest dimensions can expect at least 6kn over the ground – which equates to 5 hours.

Going round clockwise is of course very possible, and if the wind is from the east then this may well be the preferred direction. However if the wind is from the west then a west-going tide will kick up lumpy windagainst-tide conditions that can be quite challenging – especially south of St Catherine’s Point.

Should have known better

I made the mistake of doing this once as part of a Coastal Skipper course, and we found ourselves being ‘rescued’ by the Coastguard helicopter as we were making the nal approach to the Needles, a er a rather unpleasant and slow passage. e Coastguard like to practice their cra in challenging conditions and the weather ticked the boxes as far as they were concerned. We also ticked the box that is probably labeled ‘Sailors who should have known better but look as though they know what they are doing’.

We were motorsailing close-hauled and were asked to maintain course and speed. A er a bit of hovering practice that had their wheels at mast height they then did a hi-line deployment into our cockpit.

In an instant they had turned a rather tedious rough passage into what turned out to be the highlight of the week – but we still should have known better.

Friday evening – head west

Our aim for the Friday evening is to position ourselves within easy striking distance of the Needles for early on Saturday morning. ose with home berths in Lymington or Yarmouth can stay where they are, however those with a boat up the Hamble or in Cowes or Portsmouth need to head out as early as possible on Friday a ernoon

to catch the west-going tide.

Coming from the Hamble I would either head for Yarmouth (15nm) and their exceedingly helpful berthing masters, or Lymington Town Quay (15nm) which is now greatly improved and expanded by the addition of new pontoons in 2020 (best booked ahead), or Newtown River (10nm), where you take pot luck.

Nocturnal arrival

In summer there are plenty of daylight hours, but later in the year I would encourage you to practice your night navigation and head for Newtown River.

The approach to Newtown at night is not difficult, but it needs to be done with care, as there are no lights to guide you in. Once you have found the diminutive but helpfully lit, west cardinal that is 0.4nm from the entrance, head in initially on a bearing of 150°T and then follow the ‘Y’ and ‘O’ leading marks. These marks are unlit, but do have reflector strips that save the day, so if it is dark, get your youngest crewmember on the foredeck with the most powerful torch you can lay your hands on.

Once within a cricket pitch or two of the ‘Y’ head for the centre of the entrance and once inside leave the starboard hand buoys well to starboard and the isolated danger to port and keep a very close eye on your depth, especially as you will be approaching near low water.

If one of the first trot of mooring buoys is free I suggest you grab it, otherwise bear round to port and proceed with caution and drop your hook, being sure to allow sufficient scope for depth at high water.

The nice thing about arriving near low water is that things only improve depth-wise – so if you can get in, you should be able to get out.

If you head for Yarmouth or Lymington Town Quay you are spoiled for choice with restaurants and shore facilities. If you are in Newtown you have all the benefits that nature can provide in a gloriously peaceful setting.

Tomorrow will be a long day and needs an early start.

Saturday – Needles, Points and Ledges

Our aim is to be in the Needles Channel either at slack water or a bit earlier in the very last of the ebb, and arrive at the ‘SW Shingles’ port hand mark, which is about 1.5nm west of the Needles, just as the tidal stream starts heading east. On the 2nd July 2022 this happens around 0800. The ‘SW Shingles’ mark is 6nm west of Yarmouth and so I would be aiming to get going by 0600.

The tidal stream heads east along the south coast of the Isle of Wight for 6 hours, and you need to be sure to have reached Bembridge Ledge before it turns against you. Dally too long in the showers in Yarmouth and you will regret it.

The first leg to the ‘SW Shingles’ will be under engine and hopefully quite calm, so breakfast underway is both viable and impressively scenic.

It is quite possible and safe to make the turn for St Catherine’s Point (115°T) as soon as you have passed the ‘Bridge’ west cardinal, but delaying another 0.5nm until past the ‘SW Shingles’ should get you into a stronger favourable tidal stream, and buy you a bit of extra sea-room from what is now a lee shore.

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The lighthouse at Needles Point is your prompt to head east

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The anchorage off Yarmouth is a great spot to wait for a favourable tide

St Catherine’s Race

There is a ledge of comparatively shallow water stretching about 3nm south west of St Catherine’s Point. Depth-wise it is not a problem for yachts, but when the tidal stream hits it, wave heights can easily double.

St Catherine’s Point should be abeam about two and a half hours after rounding the ‘SW Shingles’ and the tidal stream off the point will be doing about 2.5kn.

It is well worthwhile getting your binoculars out and taking a look at the water ahead. If it looks rough and you don’t fancy an adrenaline boost, head south until you are 2-3 miles off the Point to avoid the race.

If you leave turning until too late you may find yourself going through the overfalls whether you want to or not.

Judge the conditions on the day, and once you have made your decision, warn the crew if necessary.

Bembridge Ledge

After rounding St Catherine’s Point, head up to about 45°T and admire the seaside towns of Ventnor, Shanklin and Sandown. Be sure to also keep a watchful eye out, ahead and behind you, for the ferries and cargo ships that are plying their trade. You will often see ships anchored in this area while they wait for a turn of tide or (more likely) for their time-slot to enter port.

You should arrive at Bembridge Ledge about an hour before high water and are now spoiled for choice for options.

Bembridge Harbour is certainly accessible at this state of tide, however if you do decide to call it a day and stay in Bembridge for the evening, you will have to stay there until Sunday afternoon to have enough depth of water over the bar (see ‘Spring time in the Solent’, ST May 2022).

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St Catherine's Point (left); the sheltered environs of Bembridge Harbour (right)

Clive Loughlin teaches for First Class Sailing in the Solent area and is a regular Sailing Today contributor.

Go for gold

The day is still young and the tidal stream is now favourable for continuing on for another 12nm to Cowes, if you fancy a dose of cosmopolitan pampering. Alternatively press on a further 5nm beyond Cowes to the Beaulieu River for something a little more refined at Buckler’s Hard, or a tranquil evening accompanied by white egrets on a visitor’s mooring buoy.

There is a bar (0.9m below chart datum) on the entrance to the Beaulieu River. If all has gone according to plan you should arrive at the entrance about 3 hours before low water and have plenty of depth under your keel. Check your calculations if you are running late or are exceptionally deep drafted.

Whether you choose Cowes or the Beaulieu River for your Saturday evening stopover, you will have completed your weekend circumnavigation.

Lazy Sunday

Having had quite a busy Saturday you have earned a chilled out Sunday. If your home port is the River Hamble, or Cowes or Portsmouth you need to make leisurely tracks to arrive before the tidal stream turns against you in the afternoon.

However if your home port is Yarmouth or Lymington then I would suggest messing about doing MOB exercises in the relatively quiet western Solent before letting the early afternoon west-going tidal stream take you painlessly back to base. Perhaps ducking in to Newtown River for a peaceful lunch.