Big Ben

Scotland’s highest munro is not to be taken lightly and there are lots of places to view it if you don’t want to go all the way to the top

Words by KEITH FERGUS

Stand on the banks of the Caledonian Canal, at Corpach, a couple of miles north of Fort William, and look east. Here you will be treated to one of the finest views in Scotland, one that takes in a mountain of such epic proportions that it dwarves everything below, a mountain that rises higher than any other point in Britain. That mountain, of course, is Ben Nevis. Ben Nevis rises to 1,345m (4,411 feet) above sea level, and it is a huge mountain in every respect. Its circumference measures approximately 17.5km (11 miles) around its base while its bulk can be seen from many miles around, from Skye in the Inner Hebrides to the Arctic plateau of the Cairngorms, some 90km (56 miles) to the northeast. Being Britain’s highest peak, Ben Nevis is, unsurprisingly, an extremely popular mountain to climb. Around 125,000 walkers reach the summit annually with most ascents made via the Mountain Track that rises from Glen Nevis. Although this is the simplest means of reaching the top, it is still a very challenging 17km (10.5-mile) route – even on a clear summer’s day – with around 1,352m (4,400 feet) to climb and then descend. Tired knees and aching thighs are a regular occurrence when walkers finally return to the Glen Nevis visitor centre having climbed ‘The Ben’, as Ben Nevis is affectionately known. The derivation of the name ‘Nevis’ has been open to much conjecture, but it is thought to mean ‘venomous’, from the Old Gaelic ‘Nimheis’ and, certainly, in some weather conditions its name is wholly appropriate; a climb to the summit during wintry, wet or windy conditions means Ben Nevis takes on a different guise entirely. Especially when enveloped in an icy garb. Snow can linger in and around the summit well into the summer but during the winter months snow can lie thick on the lower slopes – removing any sign of the path – while it can be several feet deep at the top. Likewise, snow cornices can also cover the steep cliff edges of Ben Nevis’s celebrated North Face well into summer and real care should be taken, at any time, if approaching the lip. There can also be a difference of around 10 degrees centigrade between Glen Nevis and the summit of Ben Nevis. As such, if it’s zero degrees at the base then it could be a toe-numbing -10 on the summit plateau. Add in wind chill and you have temperatures that become dangerous. Consequently, always dress appropriately for the forecast and seriously consider how quickly the weather can change. Ben Nevis also has several different sides to it. From the attractive shores of Loch Linnhe – a sea loch that flows southwest from Fort William – the mountain takes on a rounded form with, what appears to be, a flattish summit. However, to fully appreciate the true extent of Ben Nevis’s grandeur and scale then it must be seen from the banks of Allt a’ Mhuilinn (the Stream of the Mill) or, even better, from the neighbouring peak of Càrn Mòr Dearg (the Big Red Cairn). From Allt a’ Mhuilinn the astonishing north face of Ben Nevis, and its many corries and cliffs, such as Tower Ridge and Five Finger Gully, make this side one of the best mountaineering locations in the world, and it never fails to take the breath away. A superb 11km (seven-mile) walk along a good path, leaves from the North Face Car Park at Torlundy, and rises along the banks of Allt a’ Mhuilinn to reach the Charles Inglis Clark (CIC) Memorial Hut that sits beneath the incredible crags of the north face. Here, the walker is surrounded by one of the finest landscapes in Scotland, one with a real Alpine quality, with the colossal buttresses of Coire Leis and Càrn Mòr Dearg rising skywards for several hundred metres. Golden eagles may be seen high on the thermals above with carnivorous sundew, bog asphodel, tormentil, rowan, birch and hawthorn lining the path and riverbank. The hut sits at 680m (2,231 feet) above sea level and was built in 1928-29 by

This is one of the finest landscapes William and Jane Inglis Clark as a memorial to their son, Charles, who was in Scotland, with the colossal Coire Leis killed in action during the First World War. and Càrn Mòr Dearg rising skywards Extensive refurbishment of the CIC Hut took place between 2008-12 and it can

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Ben Nevis as seen from the Allt a’ Mhuilinn Trail, Torlundy, Lochaber

ABOVE:

Ben Nevis, as seen from Corpach

LEFT:

The Charles Inglis Clark Memorial Hut lies under the crags of Ben Nevis’s north face

A rougher, tougher walk up a series of zigzags finally gains the sprawling, barren summit and a truly awe-inspiring panorama

ABOVE: Many walkers will encounter a red deer or two during their ascent

RIGHT:

Looking over Loch Eil towards Ben Nevis now accommodate 24 people, with six places reserved at weekends during winter for members of the Scottish Mountaineering Club. A classic round of Ben Nevis also takes in the aforementioned Càrn Mòr Dearg that rises to 1,220m (4,003 feet) to the east of Ben Nevis. Linked by the graceful curve of the infamous Càrn Mòr Dearg Arête (an airy crest with sharp drops on either side), the route onto Ben Nevis is perhaps only for those with a good head for heights. Yet even if your walk goes no further that Càrn Mòr Dearg, the view towards the sharp cliffs and corries of Ben Nevis is utterly captivating.

However, it is an ascent of the Mountain Track, which was built in 1883 as an access route for the summit Observatory, that the majority of walkers will take. And what a walk it is. From the visitor centre a bridge crosses the River Nevis after which a well-engineered path rises past Achintee Farm onto The Ben’s lower slopes. Almost immediately, fabulous views open out along Glen Nevis to Stob Ban (The White Peak). It is then a long push upwards – where red deer and the rare mountain ringlet butterfly may be spotted – eventually crossing the gushing waters of Allt na h-Urchaire (the Red Burn), before climbing above beautiful Lochan Meall an t’Suidhe, known as the Halfway Lochan. This is actually a misnomer as the halfway point is a little higher up, from where an extraordinary vista stretches over Meall an t’Suidhe and along Loch Eil.

A rougher, tougher walk up a series of zigzags finally gains the sprawling, barren summit plateau of Ben Nevis and a truly awe-inspiring panorama.

Across Glen Nevis the Mamores (a range of 10 munros – Scottish mountains over 914m/3,000 feet in PLAN YOUR VISIT height) provide a spectacular vista almost close enough to touch, while on a clear day Schiehallion, Skye’s GETTING THERE MOUNTAIN ADVICE Cuillin ridge, the mountains of Glencoe and the Paps The nearest train station For advice and information of Jura are all visible. is Fort William, which the on tackling the Ben, go to

Snow bunting and ptarmigan may well be seen Caledonian Sleeper arrives at the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre, scuttling around the rocks and boulders. Yet it is the from London every morning either in person or online. remains of the Ben Nevis Observatory that sit except Sunday. There are Don’t attempt the climb incongruously on the summit. Meteorologist Clement also excellent connections to without doing this. Wragge prepared the ground for the observatory, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness highlifehighland.com/ climbing Ben Nevis every day for five months in 1881 and other major stations. bennevis/visitor-centre while his wife, Leonora, made comparative surveys sleeper.scot; scotrail.co.uk from Fort William. Clement took the first recorded GET A GUIDE meteorological data on Ben Nevis later that year. WHERE TO STAY By far the safest way to climb

As well as being Britain’s highest mountain, Ben The Inverlochy Castle Hotel is Ben Nevis is with a guide, who Nevis also sits directly in the path of Atlantic storms, a grand country house hotel can assess weather conditions which is why it made the perfect location for the on the banks of a loch with and keep you on the right observatory. It was open between 1883 and 1904 and an Albert & Michel Roux Jr path. The Highland Mountain scientists lived and worked at the very top of Britain restaurant, just a short drive Company offers guided for two decades, with the building, instruments and away from the Glen Nevis climbs, with experts with meteorologists withstanding some of Scotland’s centre. A short distance many years’ experience, who severest weather conditions. further, Ardrhu House, on can also teach you about the

With its height, bulk and weather, Ben Nevis is a the shores of Loch Linnhe, mountain environment mountain that requires our respect. Yet, because of the is a boutique hotel and spa as you walk. challenge to reach its summit, the wildlife that can be in a restored baronial house. thehighlandmountain seen en route and the views that extend from almost inverlochycastlehotel.com; company.co.uk/ every inch of its slopes, it is also a mountain that is ardrhuhouse.com bennevismountaintrack easy to love. S