SANDWICH

Home to what is thought to be the longest unbroken stretch of timber-framed properties in England, the small medieval town of Sandwich in Kent attracts visitors from all over the world.

The town’s connection with the food item has undoubtedly given the town a fair amount of fame. It was supposedly invented by John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich, in around 1762. As the story goes, not wanting to interrupt his gambling for a meal, the Earl ordered his valet to bring him a snack of meat between two slices of bread – and the rest is history. But the town has a fascinating story of its own that dates back much further than the 4th Earl.

Sitting evocatively amongst the atmospheric Kent marshes, just up the river from the town, lie the remains of the Roman fort of Richborough, the landing

One of Britain’s best-preserved medieval settlements, this pretty Kent town has a fascinating history

WORDS HENRIETTA EASTON

place of the Roman invasion of Britain in AD 43 and perhaps the most symbolically important of all Roman sites in the country, witnessing both the beginning and the end of Roman rule here.

Once a large, bustling settlement, visitors can now admire the fort’s mighty walls and surviving foundations, explore

Above: Sandwich is famous for its assortment of medieval and historic architecture Next page, from left: Richborough Roman Fort; a rare Deptford Pink flower at Pegwell Bay Nature Reserve; the Quay the Roman amphitheatre, and take a closer look at the hundreds of curious Roman artefacts uncovered during the site’s excavation. The fort, in the care of English Heritage, is at the end of an extensive restoration project and is due to reopen in 2023 with a brand-new revamped visitor experience. The Sandwich Riverbus runs daily boat trips to Richborough Roman Fort from the town.

Although it now lies two miles from the sea, Sandwich was once a major port. An important place of trade and production right up until the end of the Roman occupation, it was later a stop-off for medieval pilgrims on their way to Canterbury and travellers to London. It was one of the Cinque Ports: a medieval confederation of English Channel ports created to provide ships and men for the king’s service.

Sandwich has also been the site of some pivotal moments in British history. In 1194, King Richard the Lionheart landed here on his return to England from the Third Crusade. Less than 20 years later, Prince Louis of France invaded here during a great sea-battle known as the Battle of Sandwich, in support of the English barons against the unpopular King John.

The French invaded again in 1457, sending a raiding party of 4,000 men to Kent. Sandwich was pillaged, with much of the town burned to the ground and the mayor, John Drury, murdered. Ever since, according to tradition the Mayor of Sandwich has worn a black robe in mourning for this ignoble deed.

A picture-perfect hodgepodge of medieval, Tudor and Georgian buildings tell the town’s fascinating story. The impressive Fisher Gate on the Quay dates back to 1384 and is the only one of the original medieval town gates to survive the fire. The nearby Barbican, with its distinctive chequered facade, is worth a look too. Dating from the 15th century and standing at the end of the bridge over the River Stour, it was once used as a tollhouse.

Those clued up on their Flemish architecture may also notice a smattering of distinctive curly Dutch gables. In 1561, Elizabeth I granted Flemish settlers the right to settle in Sandwich, and they brought with them many skills in architecture and market gardening. In fact, in the late 16th century Sandwich was the only town in England that housed more so-called ‘strangers’ than Englishmen.

For more on the town’s rich history, the Sandwich Guildhall Museum is well worth a visit, housing Roman relics, ancient coins and an original copy of the Magna Carta, found in 2015. It is thought that this medieval document could have inspired the young political activist Thomas Paine, who lived in Sandwich in 1759 and became one of the most influential writers during the American Revolution.

As for Kent’s superb natural offerings, Pegwell Bay Nature Reserve is just a short drive away, or about an hour’s walk along the Kent Coast Path. As well as a beautiful beach to explore, the reserve is known for its migrating waders and wildfowl. Whether or not the tale of the Earl of Sandwich’s sandwich is really true, visitors to this pretty and historic town will surely agree on one thing: it’s the best thing since sliced bread.

 For more on what to see and do in the historic county of Kent, see www.britain-magazine.com

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE Trains from London to Sandwich take around 1hr 45min and leave from Blackfriars, Victoria, London Bridge and St Pancras stations. www.thetrainline.com

WHERE TO STAY The Bell Hotel dates to Tudor times and still retains many of its original features, with plenty of modern luxuries. With an enviable location on the Quay overlooking the River Stour, the hotel boasts an outdoor terrace which provides the perfect spot for a drink after a day exploring. www.bellhotelsandwich.co.uk

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Having been a ‘dwelling house’ since 1491 and a pub since the 18th century, the Crispin Inn embodies Sandwich’s medieval history and serves traditional pub fare made using local ingredients, in a cosy setting. For something more contemporary, The Toll Bridge on the riverside serves fresh and delicious seafood and regularly hosts music evenings. thecrispin-sandwich.co.uk; thetollbridge.co.uk

FURTHER INFORMATION www.visitkent.co.uk