REGENCY LONDON

Regency

LONDON

Where did the Ton, the high-living aristocrats of the late Regency period, spend their time? Discover the London addresses that still tell thrilling tales of this exuberant era

Previous page: George Bryan 'Beau' Brummell Right: The magnificent Great Room at Spencer House

When it came to recreating the London habitat of Regency high society for the smash-hit show Bridgerton, it’s no secret that Netflix turned to Bath, a city famous for its pristine, period-perfect Georgian architecture. But if you want to discover the backdrop to real-life Regency romances, you might consider turning your carriage towards the capital instead, dear reader, because if you know where to look, there are plenty of surviving sights of the Ton’s London to be discovered in the bustling modernday metropolis.

You’ll need to make for the West End, known to its Regency inhabitants as ‘town’ and utterly distinct from the commercial hub that was the City. Any aristocrat worth their salt had a plush pied-à-terre in Mayfair or St James’s, and on a stroll of the still smart streets it’s possible to pick out some of their former residences.

The snug townhouse at No. 4 Chesterfield Street was home to famous dandy and arbiter of gentlemen’s fashion ‘Beau’ Brummell, for example; while the unshowy

brown-brick property at 21 Arlington Street (a few steps from The Ritz hotel) was the town base of the Earl of Sefton and his wife Maria, one of the patronesses of the legendary Almack’s assembly balls. Meanwhile, Albany, an early apartment complex now tucked away behind two much newer buildings on Piccadilly (opposite the upmarket department store Fortnum & Mason) was home to many a Regency bachelor of rank and riches, including the notorious Lord Byron.

Of course, plenty of the Ton’s members had London homes that were more palatial in both size and splendour. Only a few of the once numerous noble mansions survived the wrecking ball that swung with increasing fervour between the 1860s and 1930s, but of those, none offers a better opportunity to step back in time than the gloriously restored Spencer House, open for guided tours once a week. Glimpsed through the trees from Green Park, the

It was mansions like Spencer House that made the most spectacular venues for the balls and parties that were the whole point of the ‘ season ’

Clockwise from top left: The west front of Spencer House; the splendid ceiling in Spencer House's Painted Room is the earliest complete Neoclassical ensemble in Europe; Lock & Co on London's St James's St is the oldest hat shop in the world; Berry Bros & Rudd first started weighing customers on their coffee scales in 1765, as at this time there was a fee to be weighed by a doctor; Berry Bros & Rudd, in business since 1698, holds two Royal Warrants

JARROLD PUBLISHING/SPENCER HOUSE © PHOTOS: PHOTOS:

Palladian residence with 50 rooms and a half-acre garden was built for the 1st Earl Spencer in the 1750s, and occupied in the Regency by the 2nd Earl, his wife Lavinia and four of their children.

It was houses like theirs that made the most spectacular venues for the balls and parties that were the whole point of the ‘season’ – the so-called ‘squeezes’ where young aristocrats went to flirt and find their perfect partner. The Spencers’ ballroom was the lavishly gilded Great Room on the first floor, with its beautifully ornate Neoclassical ceiling; the scene of a particularly splendid event in 1805 to mark the ‘coming-out’ into society of their eldest daughter Sarah. Then, the state rooms downstairs – including the Earl’s library – were thrown open to seat the four hundred or so guests who stayed till the supper at 2am.

From their houses, you can follow the Ton to some of the places where they purchased the sumptuous evening attire appropriate for just such an occasion. The red-brick building with portico entrances at numbers 80-82 Pall Mall, for instance, was once home to purveyors of fine fabrics and accessories for the fairer sex, Harding, Howell & Co. And if you walk up St James’s Street from the site of the royal palace with which it shares its name, you’ll find two shops still trading that would be entirely recognisable to Regency eyes: the bow-windowed frontage of Lock & Co, who sold beaver hats to the most fashionable of men, dates from 1810; and the woodpanelled store of wine merchants Berry Bros & Rudd still has in situ their famous scales, on which the likes of Brummell, Byron and esteemed boxer Tom Cribb were weighed in the early 1800s.

As you wander past the latter shop, you might easily miss the adjacent alleyway, down which men in the mould of the rakish Viscount Bridgerton might have sauntered during the season. Pickering Place, today a neat and tidy courtyard, then housed the entrance to a ‘gaming hell’ – an exclusive, underground venue where roulette and hazard were played for high stakes, all in defiance of the laws of the land. Certainly, any young Lord would have been a member of one of the more prominent gentlemen’s clubs that had their premises further up St James’s Street. White’s – the oldest and most prestigious – is still a private members’ club and still occupies the same building at numbers 37-38, with the very same bow window, where the most famous dandies of the Regency once sat and stared down passers-by.

Clockwise from above: A satirical cartoon entitled A Peep into Totenham Street or Dillitanti Performers in Training, showing a group of amateur actors; Theatre Royal, Drury Lane; St George's, Hanover Square was a popular wedding venue; the Royal Academy's Summer Exhibition runs every year

In the evening, you can follow in the Ton’s footsteps at the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, London’ s oldest working playhouse

By convention, St James’s Street was an all-male enclave – certainly so in the evenings. It’s said that the islands in the road were first installed in the early 1800s to make crossing safer for the inebriated patrons of its clubs and coffee houses.

Other surviving London spaces, however, were places for men and woman alike to see and be seen. During the season, the Ton flocked to see the Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition in the Great Room at Somerset House. It has recently been returned to the one large, light-filled chamber with high lantern windows that it was then, when the paintings were densely stacked from floor to ceiling.

Still to be found on the south side of Hyde Park, meanwhile, is Rotten Row, where the elite paraded in their carriages or on horseback at the fashionable hour of 5pm – though it’s now a shorter track than the one that stretched from Hyde Park Corner along what is now The Flower Walk in Kensington Gardens. The Gardens themselves were another popular place for promenading, and seemingly also a prime spot for secret assignations between lovers. Time and again, they cropped up in trials for ‘criminal conversation’, the euphemistic term for adultery with another man’s wife.

For evening entertainment, the Ton were supremely fond of the theatre, and you can best follow in their footsteps at the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, London’s oldest working playhouse. The current building dates from 1812, and with its interiors recently restored to their Regency-era splendour, it is now the largest and most complete Georgian theatre in Britain, open for guided tours several days a week. The most fitting final stop for any Regency romanceinspired tour of London, however, has to be the church of St George’s, Hanover Square – the most fashionable chapel in which to wed in the era, if the season matched you with your perfect partner. Its imposing classical facade dates from the 1720s; and while the furnishings have changed a little over time, the interior structure has not changed at all since members of the Ton tripped up the steps to exchange their wedding vows, meaning that here, perhaps more than any other place in Mayfair, the spirit of real-life Regency romance echoes down through the centuries.

Felicity Day is the author of The Game of Hearts: The Lives and Loves of Regency Women, published by Blink Publishing on 29 September

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● Spencer House, the city’s only great 18th-century private palace to survive intact, is open every Sunday, except during August, for guided tours. spencerhouse.co.uk ● The Great Room at Somerset House is now home to the Courtauld Gallery’s collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings. courtauld.ac.uk ● Guided tours of the newly restored Theatre Royal, Drury Lane last approximately 1 hour. lwtheatres.co.uk/whats-on/theatre-royal-drury-lane-tours