City Guide

MEMPHIS City guide There are plenty of reasons to get all shook up in Memphis, Tennessee’s most soulful music city, says Zoey Goto

Situated on the banks of the mighty Mississippi River, Memphis is a medium-sized American city with a larger-than-life reputation. O ering a heady combination of barbecue, blues and Elvis Presley, the city has been attracting visitors like a magnet for decades.

But Memphis has recently regenerated many of its neighbourhoods, adding new hotels and attractions into the mix. And with Viking announcing the launch of its fi rst US river cruise between New Orleans and Memphis, there’s never been a better time to discover the Blu City’s charms.

What to see

For an all-singing, whistle-stop tour to understand the music history of Memphis, hop on board the vintage Backbeat Tours bus. Local musicians lead the tours, cruising around the city’s highlights while singing spirited renditions of Memphis’s greatest hits. But be warned, crowd participation and tambourine shaking are actively encouraged!

Many of the Backbeat Tours also include a stop-o at Elvis Presley’s Graceland to pay your respects to The King. Here, you’ll wander through Elvis’s wonderfully theatrical home, including the notorious Jungle Room lounge complete with shagpile wallpaper, before being dropped o at the recently added complex of shops, restaurants and museums to admire the wonder of his bedazzling jumpsuits.

Hip swivel across town to Sun Studio, the hit factory that brought us the fi rst rock ’n’ roll single in 1951 with the release of Rocket 88. This small but mighty recording studio launched the careers of B.B. King, Johnny Cash and Elvis and you’ll even get a lip-curling photo-op with their original microphone.

Any Memphis musical heritage trail should also include a pitstop at the Stax Museum to explore the dawn of soul music at this movie theatre turned hugely infl uential recording studio, which has Isaac Hayes’ outrageously fl amboyant gold-plated Cadillac on display.

Over in the historic South Main district, you’ll fi nd the must-visit National Civil Rights Museum, encompassing the original Lorraine Motel where

Bottom row, from left: Graceland Mansion; The King’s dazzling attire; Sun Studios; International Blues Challenge; Bishop brasserie at the Central Station Hotel; neon lights of Beale Street

Main image: B.B. King’s Blues Club Top row, from left: National Civil Rights Museum; Beale Street; Peabody ducks; The Bar-B-Q Shop; Lafayette’s Martin Luther King was assassinated, with galleries sensitively guiding visitors through fi ve centuries of civil rights struggles.

Where to stay

Situated in the heart of Downtown, the Peabody hotel has been a Memphis icon since opening in 1869 and visitors still fl ock here for the twice-daily parade of ducks waddling through the lobby.

A little further from the bustle of Downtown, the recently opened Central Station Hotel has transformed a former Amtrak station into a stylish hotel, surrounded by local cafes and bars in the revitalised South Main district. Nearby you’ll fi nd Southern cuisine elevated to fi ne dining standards at Rizzo’s by Michael Patrick and sharing platters of mouth-watering pulled pork at Central BBQ.

While in the South Main district, stop o at the beautiful Arcade Restaurant, a retro diner beloved by Elvis where you can enjoy a peanut butter and banana sandwich in his favourite booth. For lipsmacking ribs fi t for an actual king, head to Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous, a barbecue institution where Princes Harry and William once dined.

Nightlife

The fi rst stop for those seeking unbeatable live music is Beale Street, America’s most famous songful street. Dubbed the home of the blues, Beale Street has been the place to hear live music since gaining notoriety in the Roaring Twenties. Acts to watch out for include the legendary bluesman Blind Mississippi Morris and the Eric Hughes Band.

Lafayette’s is a bustling music joint and restaurant in Overton Square, with a particular emphasis on jazz, blues and country. In the summer months, the Overton Park Shell outdoor amphitheatre hosts live concerts, many of which are free to attend. Bring a picnic blanket and let the good times roll!

Getting there

British Airways, Virgin Atlantic and American Airlines fl y to Memphis, with one change. American Queen Voyages and American Cruise Lines both include Memphis in itineraries and Viking Cruises is launching its Heart of the Delta voyage in June, between New Orleans and Memphis.

For more city guides and destination news, go to cruise-international.com

PICTURES: MEMPHIS TOURISM; GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCKPHOTO/F11PHOTO; CRAIG THOMPSON; AMON FOCUS/BRAND USA; JUSTIN FOX BURKS; ELVIS PRESLEY’S GRACELAND; ANDREA ZUCKER; DUSTIN WILLIAMS; DAVID MEANY/CONTIKI PURCHASE