Seine in Spring

Top left: Royal chapel, Versailles Main image: Viking longship on the Seine

fancy FRENCH

What could be better than a springtime sailing along the Seine from Paris to Normandy? Frances Marcellin reports

As 10 white doves took flight, an awed silence filled the air at Port de Grenelle in Paris, save for some faint “oohs” from the crowd, watching as the birds’ fluttering wings powered them into distant specks high above the River Seine.

Moments before, Karine Hagen, executive vice-president of Viking Cruises, had announced that on the christening of eight new longships (four in Paris, and four by a live link to Amsterdam), the company was releasing “some peace and hope into our skies”.

After two years of pandemic problems, the celebration of a new beginning at this long-awaited event was overshadowed by the war in Ukraine and, out of respect, festivities were pared back. Doves soared overhead instead of fireworks, and a gala dinner at the beautiful Hotel Evreux on Place Vendôme was an intimate affair that focused on sharing hope for the future.

One of the new longships, Viking Radgrid, named after a horse-riding spirit who served Odin, father of the Gods, would be my home for the next few nights. Captained by François Bertin, the 125m vessel is designed – like sister ships Kari, Skaga and Fjorgyn – specifically to navigate the Seine.

My stateroom exudes elegance and even has a view of the Eiffel Tower from the balcony. In the morning we’re whisked off to the Louvre where our guide, film producer turned art historian Frédéric Huette, is a treasure trove of facts. After admiring the towering Arc de Triomphe de Carousel and the iconic pyramid of the Louvre, created by Chinese architect IM Pei, we explore the original 12th-century sandstone walls inside, still covered in hearts that were etched by stonemasons in medieval times.

Clockwise, from top left: The Seine at La Roche-Guyon; the chateau at La Roche-Guyon; entrance to the Petit Palais museum; Vernon, Normandy; a traditional mill house on a bridge above the Seine; the Louvre’s famous pyramid

GREEN ENERGY ABOUNDS AS THERE ARE SOLAR PANELS, SHORESIDE POWER AND AN ORGANIC HERB GARDEN

We take in the Greek marble beauty Venus de Milo, presented to Louis XVIII after being found on the Aegean island of Milos, and the golden-domed Apollo Gallery that displays the French crown jewels. We then debate whether the Mona Lisa was modelled on Leonardo da Vinci’s apprentice, Salaì – it was believed they were romantically involved and her name is even an anagram of ‘Mon Salaì’.

We pay a quick visit to the Petit Palais art museum on the way back, but I only get as far as the exquisite courtyard garden. Its bright pink cherry blossom and verdant palm trees are a perfect spot for coffee, and outside I admire Jean Cardot’s impressive bronze sculpture of Winston Churchill.

At sunset, under amber and purple skies, we float silently out of Le Pecq thanks to the ship’s hybrid diesel-electric engines. Green energy abounds as there are also solar panels on the top deck, the option to use shoreside power where available, and an organic herb garden.

The next morning, I wake to blue skies and bright sunshine in La Roche-Guyon, part of the Val d’Oise. The serene country mooring is akin to a quiet motorboat berth and a world away from Paris. I’m enraptured by the village, and the atmosphere here is cleverly evoked by Claude Monet in his 1881 impressionist painting Le Château de la Roche Guyon. Instead of taking the walking tour to the château, I trail-run up the limestone hills to investigate the keep at the top. It’s well worth it: the view of the Seine snakes towards Normandy and I pause to soak in the magic of that moment.

At our next stop, Vernon, I discover that during the German occupation a strong underground resistance formed called ‘Le Reseau’ – their resilience won out because when that network was destroyed, they formed another called 8

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/THIERRY64/MARCELLO LAND SHUTTERSTOCK/D.SERRA1/FREE PROD33/VICHIE81

I DIDN’T THINK VERSAILLES COULD BE TOPPED, BUT VIKING SUCCEEDS WITH A MOONLIT TOUR TO THE EIFFEL TOWER

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/FRANCK LEGROS/ PARK ISLAND; ADAM HILLIER ‘Vengeance’. From here you can bike or bus it to the Museum of Impressionism in Giverny, a stone’s throw from Monet’s old house and garden. The local Sainte-Radegonde church is where Monet was buried with his family.

Less than 24 hours later, we’re eating melt-in-your mouth croissants for breakfast in the Palace of Versailles. Once the closest forest to Paris, this opulent residence started as a hunting lodge for Louis XIII, which is hard to believe when you’re being dazzled by light and chandeliers in the famous Hall of Mirrors.

Visiting Versailles brings history to life, and the artworks are exquisite. In the 18th century, white hair was high fashion and our guide explains how the upper classes, including Marie Antoinette, powdered their hair with flour, which didn’t go down well with the masses who were starving because of a bread shortage. Her reputation plummeted, giving rise to the notorious pronouncement: “Let them eat cake”.

As a mother, an oil painting of Marie Antoinette from 1787 with her young children twanged my heart strings, showing a closeness to them that was unusual for nobility at this time. After the monarchy was abolished in 1792, she was tragically separated from her family, including husband Louis XVI, and they were executed a year later. Only her eldest daughter, Marie Thérèse, survived into adulthood.

Outside, the immaculate grounds cover roughly 2,000 acres, seeming to reach almost as far as the horizon. You could spend hours here exploring such monumental gardens.

I didn’t think topping the Versailles experience was possible, but back in Paris, Viking succeeded with a moonlit riverboat tour to the twinkling Eiffel Tower, a new excursion

set to be added on Seine sailings in 2023. Chocolate-covered strawberries and champagne flowed, and we marvelled at Gustave Eiffel’s 986ft masterpiece.

As I took in the moment with old and new friends, the sound of a distant horn cast my mind back to the christening. When the bottle of aquavit – the Norwegian national spirit that is Viking’s preferred stand-in for champagne – broke over the bow of the eighth new ship, the fleet’s horns blasted out in celebration as the crowd clapped and cheered.

“That Parisian traffic!” joked Alastair Miller – the master of ceremonies and Viking’s resident photographer – his quip making everyone laugh. That melange of elegance, experience and conviviality makes this voyage so special and, in this case, added a sprinkling of je ne sais quoi.

GETTING THERE

Viking Cruises’ eight-day Paris & the Heart of Normandy trip starts from £1,945 per person for sailings in 2023, when booked by June 30. Includes flights from UK airports, all onboard meals with wine, beer or soft drinks at lunch and dinner, six guided tours, Wi-Fi, gratuities and evening entertainment. A new three-day culinary extension is also available, including a lesson in baking croissants at a Parisian cooking school and a wine and cheese evening hosted by a sommelier in a private cellar. To book, visit vikingcruises.co.uk

To find out more about French river cruises, visit cruise-international.com

Clockwise, from top left: Afternoon tea; the Hall of Mirrors and Marie Antoinette painting, Versailles; the library on board Viking’s longships; the Seine and Eiffel Tower, Paris, by moonlight; the royal garden and fountain, Palace of Versailles