Executive Destinations Magazine - Issue 4 by Demolition Hub Ltd

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SUMMER 2020 | ISSUE 4

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Executive Destinations

CAMBODIA Ten cool things to do in Asia’s rising star

BALI

The ten best luxury hotels

Cover image: Alila Villas Uluwatu, Bali

Meet Philippe Kjellgren, the luxury hotel guru behind the PK’s List app

Le Chalet 1240 Route du Coupeau, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc info@lechaletmontblanc.com +33 (0) 6 33 28 28 31 www.lechaletmontblanc.com

SUMMER 2020 | ISSUE 4

What happens next? At the time of writing, the UK is beginning to come out of lockdown. Our pubs, restaurants and hotels are reopening, all within the bounds of the modified social distancing guidance, of course. But what does it mean for the way with live our lives and spend our leisure time in the longer term? Of course, this is the question that everyone is asking and that only fools would claim to have all the answers to. We’re not quite in Socrates’ “The only thing I know is that I know nothing,” territory, however. People will continue to be curious, to want to travel and see new things. They will also continue to want to be pampered. And there will continue to be people who can afford to find their way around the practical restrictions placed on our lives by living with

a global disease that for the time being has no well established cure and no vaccine. It is a question of how to satisfy these human urges, not whether to do so. The fundamentals are that close confinement is a contagion risk factor and that mass global travel and trade routes make the spread of a pandemic easier than ever. Get around them, and we can have all the luxury travel we like. Like any challenge, the Covid pandemic requires imagination – how to fulfil our needs within a new set of constraints. These are beginning to be answered, but if you’ll forgive another overused quotation, this is “perhaps the end of the beginning”. In the meantime, and while we all try and work things out, escape the lockdown in our pages and consider your next move.

Toby Wilsdon Editor

Managing Director Ben Chambers ben@chambers.media Editor Toby Wilsdon toby@chambers.media Designer Nicki Chambers nic@chambers.media Head of Sales Luke Chaplin luke@chambers.media Feature Writer Michelle Dunn michelle@chambers.media Production Assistant Aaron Lloyd aaron@chambers.media

Published by Chambers Media Suite 5 & 6, Chapel House Worthing West Sussex BN11 1EX Tel: +44 (0)1903 952 640 The information contained in this publication has been obtained from sources the proprietors believe to be correct. However, no legal liability can be accepted for any errors. No part of the publication can be reproduced without the prior consent of the publisher.

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THE ARBITRIP STORY

Benny Yonovich, founder and CEO of Arbitrip tells the disruptor’s story

CONTENTS

SUBJECTIVE TRAVEL INTELLIGENCE

Meet Philippe Kjellgren, the luxury hotel guru behind PK’s List

TEA FOR TWO IN THE FAR EAST Take time for tea on a tropical afternoon

BALI: ISLAND OF THE GODS

We review the Indonesian islandstate’s top 10 luxury hotels

10 OF THE WORLD’S BEST CAR MUSEUMS

Engineering, style and history come together in these temples to the car

ORIENTAL AFFAIRS

Some things are best experienced with friends. Here are some Asian examples

ISRAEL’S COOLEST

From the religious sites of Jerusalem to the beach bars of Eilat, Israel has it all

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80 54

DIGGING IN THE DIRT

CULTUREWISE GREECE

Eight alternative American destinations, waiting to be uncovered

10 COOL THINGS TO DO IN CAMBODIA

Had your fill of Phuket? Cambodia is the rising star of southeast Asia

WHEN THE CHIPS ARE DOWN IN MACAU The Chinese SAR more than gives Las Vegas a run for its money

SERENDIPITOUS DOINGS IN CEYLON Sri Lanka has many great things to offer. Here are just 10 of them

HÔTEL MIL8: THE ART OF MOUNTAIN LIVING

Alpine luxury is taken to new heights in the French resort of Avoriaz

CENTENNIAL STATE

From mountain resort to Dude Ranch, Colorado is the place to stay

THE ABATON LIFE

The Cretan resort is on an upward trend. Here’s why

All you need to know about doing business in Greece

EROSANTORINI: FIERY LOCALE

Overlooking Santorini’s iconic caldera, the luxury estate is the perfect venue

GRECOTEL: SIX OF THE BEST

The Greek luxury chain delivers sophisticated lifestyle experiences

UNDER NELSON’S EYE Ben Chambers reviews The Trafalgar St James hotel

HAIDILAO HOTPOT

Discover this most sociable way to eat

WOW MOMENTS

Lynda Gordon talks luxury in the wilderness

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BUEN CAMINO

Belorado to Villalcazar de Sirga; part two of Toby Wilsdon’s pilgrimage

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2001 A BIKE ODYSSEY

Part four of the epic ride. From Irkutsk to Hong Kong via The Gobi

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The story behind Arbitrip Benny Yonovich

Arbitrip is an online tool that helps travel managers and business travellers find and book the best hotels. Its unique technologies guarantee travellers the best experience while helping managers keep tabs on travel activity, reducing costs by more than 20 per cent. Among its clients are HP, Gett, E&Y, Fiverr, Freeformers, Holovis, Mobileye, AppsFlyer, Sapiens, Kape and more

Arbitrip’s story showcases a startup born out of a technological challenge and a love for enjoyable travel. The hotel booking platform’s success came about not just from CEO Benny Yonovich’s careful eye on the market, but a willingness to innovate service many businesses take for granted. An avid traveller, Benny came up with Arbitrip following a trip to Japan with his wife. As the couple cancelled their planned visit to Osaka, Benny noticed a trick of the travel industry: “Just before cancelling the room, which cost us US$160, I checked the current price and was surprised to see it dropped to US$120.” Benny realised that business discounts would decrease that cost even further and that a booking platform aimed at businesses would allow users to take advantage of both business discounts and fluctuating room prices for hotels all over the world. This price drop reminded Benny of the financial term ‘arbitrage’, meaning to take advantage of a price difference between different markets. Arbitrip’s name came naturally. As a big believer in B2B, demoing Arbitrip with corporations made sense to Benny, despite it being the road less travelled for his sector of the travel industry. This risk was warmly received and highly rewarded, with clients now including the likes of Gett, Fiverr, Appsflyer and Sapiens. Arbitrip was soon faced with another challenge. Benny frequently heard that their clients’ travel agents were inefficient and that employees were prioritising

enjoyable experiences and unique hotels alongside cost-effectiveness – forcing them to book outside of company policy. Arbitrip’s data showed that their travellers often showed a widespread preference for boutique hotels when booking accommodation. In 2019, they noticed that 69 per cent of their bookings for luxury hotels in New York were boutique, despite often being further away from the traveller’s destination than nearby chain hotels. Cost-effective business travel and leisure-like experiences were an obvious combination for Benny, a combination that is still at the core of Arbitrip’s ethos even as it goes global. Benny’s journey as a startup founder has been as rewarding as it is exhilarating: “The most common image for the startup journey is a rollercoaster and we are no different.” The bad days of watching competitors take clients and managing angry investors are offset by the good days, where new clients are found and targets are reached. “As a founder, you’re under constant pressure navigating the company forward,” Benny says, “but for sure, it’s not boring.” As a technology graduate, Benny is keen to keep Arbitrip ahead of the curve, which recently included integrating AI into the platform. His plans for Arbitrip are to keep developing more cuttingedge technology to improve the service and innovate the market. Fittingly for the travel industry, the future of Arbitrip remains global. Arbitrip is reaching out to other likeminded companies to enhance their offering and help Arbitrip expand its selection across the planet. “Initially, we’re focusing on the UK and Europe,” Benny says when asked about the markets that he is currently focusing on. But the evergrowing scale of Arbitrip has global potential; potential that Benny is very excited to foster. ED

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Subjective travel intelligence Luxury hotel guru Philippe Kjellgren has been collating ‘subjective travel intelligence’ for more than 20 years. Having established the highly exclusive, invitation-only PK’s List – Subjective Travel Intelligence personalised advisory service, he launched the somewhat more affordable app for the rest of us last year. This came off the back of 800 days and nights’ extensive and no doubt punishing research in some of the world’s best hotels. Executive Destinations spoke to him at The ShangriLa at The Shard in London, where he told us about the various levels of services PK’s List can provide

Tell us about your beginnings

I guess I was kind of born into travel. I lived in Africa for about six or seven years when I was growing up. My mother was a diplomat and my father just loved everything French, so it was mostly francophone countries such

as Madagascar and Zaire (now the Democratic Republic of Congo). I travelled with my parents and we saw a lot of cultures. And so by the time I was only 25 years old, I had already been to more than 100 countries.

So how did you move from traveller to luxury hotel guru?

I realised I could provide a lot of insights, so I launched a couple of hotel booking websites, and now, PK’s List. The idea was to provide firsthand knowledge to affluent or savvy

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Stay in the geodesic domes at Kachi Lodge in Bolivia

travellers, or people who just love staying in good hotels.

How does PK’s List work?

Dive in: Philippe Kjellgren on the salt flats of Bolivia’s Altiplano

‘I’ve made all the mistakes, so you don’t have to’

How do you build travellers’ trust in the app?

How can I prove that I’ve been to these hotels? Social media. I said, “Let’s go around the world, visit every hotel, take a picture and announce, ‘Here I am’.” So I tried to visit every place on earth that has a great hotel, all in 800 days. And through social media and interviews, I’ve been able to showcase them. I can save everyone time by saying, “Here are the best hotels in the world, whether a small boutique; trendy little hotel; a hidden gem on a deserted island; or a famous hotel like The Shangri-La at The Shard in London.”

∧

Some people might have a budget of £300 per night; while others have unlimited budgets. But what they all have in common is that they love hotels. That’s what this is all about, PK’s List is a bespoke travel advisory service. The top tier is by invitation only. We have a limited number of very high-profile clients, royalty, former heads of state, celebrities, billionaires, who have access to me personally on a one to one basis. Since I’ve been to these places, it’s first-hand knowledge. Some want to immerse themselves in museums and art, some are more adventurous and others just want luxury hotels. So I can say, “Because you like this, and this hotel, in these parts of the world, you should stay here and go there.” The second tier is a travel club. People pay a small annual fee; it is by invitation, referral or people reach out and sign up, like a London social club. Because I’m very connected in the

travel industry, members get all the perks such as upgrades, free breakfast, hotel credits, spa treatments, VIP amenities, etc. without paying extra. The third tier is the app. I decided to do something disruptive and create an app to share the contact information of all the hotels. Others require you to book through the app, you can’t contact the hotel directly, but this is all my research in your pocket for a small monthly fee.

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It’s a fantastic research tool for any hotel lover.

So how do I find the right hotel for me?

The app is divided into different hotel personalities. So, if you like a certain hotel, you’re probably going to like those with similar characters. Then you can see our recommended hotels based on your selections. What’s great is that I’ve done the research for you, I’ve made all the mistakes so you don’t have to. I’ve also stayed in some awful places that claim to be very good, to be honest, all in the name of research.

What if I want to go off the beaten track – to a must-see destination where luxury hotels are thin on the ground?

If you are a member of the travel club and you want to climb Mount Kilimanjaro, we can plan your itinerary. We will work with the team to make sure that your five-day trip up the mountain is amazing and you get the best possible service at each stage along the way.

Do you have any standout places of all those you have visited?

I’m part of a lot of the affiliate programmes all the big brands such as Four Seasons, Ritz Carlton, Mandarin Oriental, Peninsula and so on. But it doesn’t mean that I’m married to them. So, for instance, I wouldn’t recommend all the Four Seasons, just because I’m a Four Seasons preferred partner. The Four Seasons Preferred Partnership means I get perks for my clients, but I am completely unbiased. That’s why I call it subjective travel intelligence, it’s my opinions. I will only include the Four Seasons that I like around the world. And the same with the Shangri-La, which is a brand that has some great hotels, and some that are not as good. I have very close relationships with the top management in pretty much every hotel, but it doesn’t mean that I’m married to that brand. I would never recommend you stay somewhere just because it’s a brand. I recommend the place based on your needs.

And these relationships, do they affect what you see of the hotel?

When I go to the hotels, who better than the top dog to show me what their hotel is all about? I say, “Here I am, show me your hotel through your eyes.” I’m not trying to be incognito, because I want them to show me what the hotel is all about. Of course they treat me better, but having been in so many hotels, I can judge other people’s experience. I often travel alone, so it’s natural to chat to the people around me.

Tell us more about those perks The great thing about being a PK’s list customer is that you will feel appreciated. You get a handwritten

∧

I would say that one of the places I was most impressed by was Bolivia. The salt flats of the Altiplano are just incredible. There is this place called Kachi Lodge that had just opened when we were there, with geodesic domes appearing like igloos rising out of ice. Bhutan is incredible because of the culture, and I’m a big fan of Madagascar, though I’m a little bit biased since I have lived there. It is a country that has so much potential; great culture, good food, wonderful people and incredible nature.

Isn’t there a danger of being in the big brand’s pockets?

very aspect of Belmond Cap Juluca was designed to enchant and delight, and we believe they have succeeded. We arrived at the iconic resort by boat from St Martin/ Sint Maartens. Considered to be Anguilla’s crown jewel, the hotel is positioned around a blue, crescent shaped bay, most known for having one of, if not the best beach in the Caribbean. The resort, owned by LVMH, underwent extensive renovations and reopened in late 2018 with five new villas in addition to the 103 existing guest rooms and suites; two new restaurants (including a revamped Pimms); and a gleaming spa. We love that all rooms and suites face the water and have stunning views. Aside from the fact that the resort sits on one of the best beaches in all the Caribbean, the architecture and design of the hotel is chic, elegant, yet enticingly inviting. The main house features a brass chandelier adorned with burgundy tassels, fine works of art, antique furniture from Europe and a Moroccan pool embedded with emerald and aqua tiles to reflect the colours of the sea and sky. The space beckons guests to spend a little time in order to absorb its aura. Then there’s Pimms, the local institution and one of the most romantic restaurants on the island; Cip’s, which serves the most divine Italian cuisine and is named after the iconic restaurant at their sister hotel Belmond Hotel Cipriani; Maundays Club, where the manager’s “Champagne Sabering” – an experience not to be missed – takes place each evening; and The

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Belmond Cap Juluca, Anguilla by Philippe Kjellgren

Cap Shack (our favourite lunch spot), a beach-side haven serving beach barbecue tapas straight from a vintage food truck. For those who want to do some exploring, Anguilla is still fairly untouched, with plenty of great restaurants scattered around the island. Rent a car or scooter and go discover some amazing beaches, many with public access and perfect for picnics. The sparkling turquoise water is irresistible. Back at the resort, guests can request a ride in Belmond’s classic

VW Kombi, painted turquoise to blend with the sea and sky. We were given special permission to take the van for a cruise around the island for some nice pictures and to catch the sunset. This was another highlight for us. Belmond Cap Juluca is perfect for couples and families and we recommend staying for seven to 10 nights. With a plethora of water sports to choose from, nature walks, golf and tennis courts, there is something for everyone and you’ll wish you had booked more days. ED

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card from the general manager saying thanks for booking. I’ve had billionaire clients who have told me, “I’ve stayed in this hotel for 20 years. And then I started booking through you and I got a bottle of champagne and a handwritten card from the general manager.” That’s why I’m saying it’s much better than going incognito. If I can create that special attention through a personal relationship, it doesn’t matter who you are, you can be Joe

Blow or Bill Gates, you’re going to love that. In fact, I’ve booked some of the richest people in the world and they have received something they’re not used to. Even if you’re extremely wealthy, you appreciate the service.

Where do you take things from here?

The focus is definitely going to be on the app, trying to disrupt the dominant big players. PK’s List is Taktsang Monastery (the Tiger’s Nest) in Bhutan

for the savvy traveller, for the person who loves hotels, now there’s finally a source of information that they can trust, similar to what the Michelin Guide does for restaurants. There wasn’t really anything that was trusted previously. If you look at brands like The Leading Hotels of the World, Small Luxury Hotels, they are actually marketing organisations that the hotels pay to participate in. With PK’s List, hotels don’t pay to be part of it, they are selected by me. Having been to so many places, I appreciate boutique hotels, I appreciate the grand classic hotels, I appreciate rustic places, so we have a very broad spectrum, but they are all great places to stay divided into three price levels. That’s why I felt that I have been to more places than most, I have stayed in most of the top hotels in the world. Here’s my selection, take it for what it is. Hopefully, it will help you and other travellers to make better decisions.

How do you decide, OK, I’m going to go and check this place out?

I grew up travelling, so I was always fascinated by hotels. I was a hotel geek, even before I started down this road. Even when I couldn’t afford to stay in them, I would go into the best hotels and sometimes even ask, “Can you show me a room because next time I’m here, I’m going to stay here,” and so on. It was based on my personal interests. I like design, I like architecture, so I made my passion my work. When I go somewhere – other people might go to museums – I go and visit hotels. It’s lifting every stone, asking everyone in the industry what they recommend, who is their competitor, and that sort of thing. And then you learn.

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Beasts of burden: Taking a ride in Madagascar

What do you personally look for in a destination?

I love food, I love wine, I like architecture and that sort of thing. So when I go to places, I don’t really go into museums to look at art or learning and culture from that perspective. But I love to look at the city, the buildings and the streets, and the locals’ lives. Street food is another thing I love. I love to explore the local flair, so even though I stay in the nicest hotels, I venture out and maybe ask the person who works at the front desk where they would go for dinner.

When I was in Vegas for a trade show, I asked a Mexican maid where the best tacos in the city were. And she said “Tacos el Gordo.” So I walked for five miles down the strip in very hot weather – no one walks anywhere in Vegas – and they had amazing tacos. I like to explore different neighbourhoods, even though they’re not where the hotels are. I would say, “So what are the best neighbourhoods in the city?” and then just go for a walk, see the buildings and that sort of thing. That’s my passion. ED

PK’s List is available for iOS 10 or later from the App Store Monthly subscription: US$7.99; first three months free

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Tea for two in the far east

Few things are more delightful, delicious and decadent than an afternoon tea for two served with fine china and silver platters. This ever-so-English of daytime treats has been adopted across Asia in several highend hotels and resorts, offering guests the chance to savour a few hours of quality time in the middle of a hot tropical day Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Built in the 1920s when French colonists were adding their own culinary twists to Indochina, Le Royal captures the nostalgia of a bygone era. “Raffles stands for all the fables of the exotic east,” penned Somerset Maugham. And it still does. Located in the heart of Phnom Penh, Raffles Hotel Le Royal serves up a titillating afternoon tea combining sweet delights, such as mango tartlets, chocolate mousses and vanilla mille-feuilles with savoury salmon sandwiches and fresh scones, all washed down with lashings of premium tea in fine chinaware. Patrons may choose to sup tea in the conservatory, or among the wicker chairs and leather sofas of the famous Elephant Bar, or quite simply under the shade of a raintree in a tropical garden by the pool. US$15 per set

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Banyan Tree Lang Co, Hue, Vietnam

Few resorts in Vietnam pay heed to the nation’s unique heritage quite as rigorously as Banyan Tree Lang Co. Known for its phong thuy (feng shui), the traditional architecture of its villas and its stunning location sandwiched between the mountains and the East Sea, the resort exudes a very Vietnamese atmosphere. This reverence for tradition is foremost when it comes to afternoon tea. Every day, villa guests are served an exquisite selection of local teas and treats in their villa by staff wearing ao dai – the national costume. The meal is transported in bamboo baskets balanced on a ganh, a traditional means of carrying goods and food still used by many street vendors. The spread features a choice of premium teas and local snacks such as nem lui (pork on lemongrass skewers) and banh ngot (sweet cakes). Complimentary for residents, served daily at 3pm

Hyatt Regency Bangkok, Thailand

macarons with pomelo custard filling, created by the Hyatt’s culinary team. The coffee is from the plantations at Le Tor Gol Village, in Tak province, which has a reputation as one of the country’s best coffees. The tea comes from the village of Mae Sai in Chiang Mai, where tea has grown naturally for over a century. Served daily from 2pm until 4pm, at THB950 for a twoperson set ∧

Sukhumvit Gallery, a new photo gallery in one of Bangkok’s most culturally diverse areas, is giving guests a glimpse into another era with a permanent exhibition on the history of Bangkok’s most important boulevard – Sukhumvit. The visual feast doesn’t end with the images and Hyatt Regency Bangkok, where the gallery is located, is serving up afternoon tea within the space, inspired by the images on display. Renowned Thai floral artist, Sakul Inthakul, is behind the plating. The Ekamai pedestrian bridge on Sukhumvit Soi 63 was Inthakul’s muse for the serving platter; a handcrafted sculpture of stainless steel, copper plating and artificial marble that is decorated with local flowers. More than a dozen bitesized treats, both sweet and savoury, flank the bridge-cumplate. These include homemade desserts, like mini sweet potato scones and homemade

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Palace Hotel Tokyo, Japan

To coincide with last November’s debut of Palace Hotel Tokyo’s fine dining restaurant Esterre – a collaboration between Palace Hotel Tokyo and Ducasse Paris – the award-winning hotel launched a new French-inspired afternoon tea presentation at its Lounge Bar Privé. Esterre’s Chef Pâtissier, Thomas Moulin and Chef de Cuisine, Martin Pitarque

Palomar, have crafted a menu that reflects hints of the new contemporary restaurant. The seasonal selection includes items like quiche lorraine, a salmon cake with lemon cream and caviar, an olive basil cake, financier, Alain Ducasse chocolat religieuse, madeleine, and exotic cheesecake. JPY4,600 per person or JPY6,700 with a glass of champagne. Available from 2:30pm until 5pm

Banyan Tree Samui, Ko Samui, Thailand

Whether served in your villa by your own personal butler, perhaps as you lounge alongside your private infinity pool, or from a vantage point in the restaurant overlooking the sapphire seas of the Siamese Gulf, an afternoon tea at Banyan Tree Samui is something of a rare treat. You may opt for a refined English tea set, replete with porcelain pots of Earl Grey, fresh scones and clotted cream. Or why not try the locally inspired Mango Paradise Tea Set – a mango-flavoured Disneyland of eclairs, tarts, mousse, cheesecake, macarons and more. US$30-35 per set

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The Grand Hyatt Taipei, Taiwan

Make sure to go very hungry if you’re planning a visit to the Grand Hyatt Taipei’s afternoon tea buffet at Café. Designed to resemble a high-end marketplace and overlooking the tranquil gardens of a nearby park, Asia’s most ambitious afternoon tea buffet seats more than 280 guests and consists of 10 international food stations covering cuisine from Japan to India. Highlights include a sushi and seafood bar, a salad bar, a fresh juice bar, Chinese as well as Western delicacies, and a dessert station filled with cheese, cakes and pastries, an ice cream bar, and a matcha chocolate fountain. Served daily from three until 5pm. Prices start at NTD880 per adult and NTD440 per child (aged 5-12)

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, Vietnam

Afternoon tea at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi is now a languorous affair in Le Club Bar, a bright, airy venue with a timeless feel overlooking the hotel’s garden courtyard. It features an allnew selection of traditional sandwiches, oven-fresh scones, scrumptious patisseries and signature madeleines. There is an expanded menu of teas from around the world, ranging from bold Indian Assam to delicate Chinese green teas, and locally produced Vietnamese varieties. Traditional afternoon tea costs VN690,000 (US$30) while the signature Chocolate Library, available daily from 3pm until 5:30pm, is VND600,000

The Anam Cam Ranh, Vietnam

In stark contrast to the oftendreary weather in Britain where the pastime of afternoon tea began, the service at The Anam is a sunny affair, served on The Colonial’s outdoor terrace that basks in more than 300 days of sunshine a year. The Anam’s “High Tea Colonial” afternoon tea features English and raisin scones with jam and clotted cream, complemented with Bailey’s cheesecake, coconut tart and macaron. Savoury offerings include a ham and cheese sandwich, grilled pork belly with mustard seed sauce and mini ciabatta and a caprese burger. Served daily from 3pm until 5pm. US$15 per person ED

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Alila Villas Uluwatu

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Bali’s top 10 luxury hotels Known as the Island of the Gods, Bali appeals with wild jungles, mighty volcanoes, ancient temples, glistening sandy beaches and soulstirring sunsets. But it’s now upped the ante for glamorous places to stay, too. We visit this fabled land in which the luxury hotel market gets more competitive each year, writes Michelle Dunn

Alila Villas Uluwatu

Setting: Arresting views of the Indian Ocean dominate at this sleek, all-villa resort set on the 100-metre high cliffs on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula. The famous Uluwatu Temple is six miles away.

Stay: Cleverly designed by award-

winning Singapore architectural firm WOHA to blend seamlessly into the natural surrounds, ocean panoramas take centre stage – especially those from the 50-metre infinity pool set along the cliff edge. There’s also a 24-hour gym, spa with yoga pavilion, and gallery exhibiting contemporary Indonesian art. Further thrills include three restaurants for Indonesian and Mediterranean fare and a relaxed bar for end-of-day cocktails.

Rooms: The 65 minimalist, open-

plan wow-factor villas have huge glass walls leading out onto private pools with cabanas and day beds. Expect traditional Balinese accents (wood, stone, rattan, batik cushions, bamboo ceilings), comfortable kingsize beds dressed with crisp white cottons, and spa-like bathrooms with deep-soaking tubs, jet showers (indoor and outdoor) and bespoke Alila toiletries. All villas come with a personal butler. ∧

www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu

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The Purist Villas & Spa Setting: Just a 30-minute walk from

central Ubud, this small-scale but highly luxurious retreat is a sublime spot for those who like their backdrops green, verdant and utterly peaceful.

Stay: The thoughtful classic-meets-

contemporary design theme works a charm, but it’s the extras that really make this place so memorable. Expect attentive and eager-to-please staff, private rooms for massages and Ayurvedic treatments, daily yoga and meditation sessions and a couple of pools for all-day lazing. There’s also a restaurant for Balinese cuisine and Asian tapas as well as a tempting room service menu. Complimentary teas are served every afternoon.

Rooms: The private suites, villas,

and residences all seduce with unique hand-finished furnishings, soothing neutral hues and a balcony or garden overlooking the surrounds (a chunk of the villas also have their own pool). Highlights include king-size beds with mosquito nets, yoga mats, tea and coffee-making facilities and bathrooms with freestanding tubs (some have open-air rainshowers). For larger groups, the residences offer more indoor and outdoor living space. www.thepuristvillas.com

Capella Ubud

Setting: The only luxe retreat in the Keliki

Valley, this tented camp sits pretty between lush forests, rice paddies, and the River Wos. Boho-chic Ubud is just a 25-minute drive away.

Stay: Acclaimed landscape architect and visionary Bill Bensley has worked his magic with a 19th-century explorer theme that is eccentric yet stylish. There’s the soulful Auriga Spa for treatments and therapies, two superb restaurants for hillside dining and free on-site activities such as nature walks, yoga, pilates, and cycling (bikes are provided). You’re spoiled further with a 30-metre-long outdoor rainforest pool and a varied sunrise-to-sunset activity schedule. Rooms: A tented camp but not as you

know it, the cluster of 22 one-bedroom retreats and single two-bedroom lodges is a vision of loveliness. Enjoy eye-popping interiors glammed up with wood panelling and quirky objects d’art, rainforest river views and private decks with plunge pools, outdoor bathrooms, and sunloungers. Amenities include Illy coffee machines, customised organic bath products and welcome duffle bags with all the camp essentials you’ll need. www.capellahotels.com/en/capella-ubud

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Stone House

Setting: Located in Kutuh Kaja

village, this away-from-it-all tropical hideaway does high-design and homely vibes in a lush garden setting, while the centre of Ubud is just 10 minutes away.

Stay: Owner and founder Nyoman

Sukanata together with designer extraordinaire Walker Zabriskie and his free-spirited partner Wendy Kassel have created an intimate sanctuary to please interior lovers. There’s a hand-cut stone pool for swimming, a communal lounge for reading and playing games, and a large table for wholesome breakfasts with smoothies, fresh fruit, yogurt, and fresh organic coffee. There’s no restaurant; all food here is made-to-order.

Rooms: Overlooking the manicured grounds, the two rustic-chic villas and one suite are designed to accommodate a total of eight guests. Expect a selection of rich fabrics, canopied beds, and carefully curated artworks. The Longhouse is by far the most dramatic: a wooden villa built on seven-metre stilts with rice field and river vistas and three porches, one with a swinging couch, one with an outdoor shower, and one with an oversized sofa. ∧

www.stonehousebali.com

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Katamama

Setting: Just a short walk from

the beach in Bali’s upscale resort area of Seminyak, this 57-room boutique hotel is adored by travel luminaries for its deliberately lowkey and unfussy vibe.

Stay: While owner Ronald Akili’s

passion for the post-war modernist design style Jengki is on show virtually everywhere, this is combined with traditional architectural touches both inside and out. There’s an atmospheric all-day restaurant serving Indonesian and continental dishes, a chic bar space for sipping masterful cocktails, and an assortment of wellness-based activities such as yoga and personal training. The hotel also has a small spa and a well-equipped gym.

Rooms: Available in six categories,

the well-sized suites boast handmade king-size beds with pillow menus, mid-century furniture, bespoke Indonesian artworks and a handy cocktail bar. Dig deep in your wallet and book a pool suite with a bedroom, living area, dining table, courtyard with daybed and 20-metre-squared pool. Nice touches include organic bath products, hand-woven bathrobes, and beach sets with traditional Borneo rattan bags and matching hats and sarongs. www.katamama.com

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Bulgari Resort Bali

Setting: Set on a 450-foot-high cliff cascading towards the Indian Ocean on Bali’s south-western shore, this high-calibre resort has all the elegance you’d expect from the Bulgari brand.

Stay: With dreamy ocean views from

every direction, the vibe is Italian sophistication with an Indonesian spin. There’s a show-stopping infinity pool lined with cabanas, a spa with open-air treatment rooms, an excellent gym, and a pristine private beach with two miles of gleaming sand. Highlights include world-class dining (the 200-strong wine collection is a good shout), gardens studded with frangipane trees and a wedding chapel that may tempt you to tie the knot.

Rooms: The 59 villas and five mansions have customised Italian furnishings by Milan-based architectural firm, Antonio CitterioPatricia Viel and Partners, as well as classic Balinese design elements such as bamboo roofs and handcut volcanic stone. Expect dark woods, lavish textiles, comfy beds and spa-like bathrooms with roomy tubs, showers and of course, Bulgari branded toiletries. There are also private plunge pools, breezy dining pavilions and butlers on tap.

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www.bulgarihotels.com/en_US/bali

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Six Senses Uluwatu Setting: Built into a high clifftop

on Bali’s southern coast, this flawless newcomer makes the most of its ravishing setting overlooking the iconic Uluwatu Temple and the sparkling sea.

Stay: The island’s only resort certified by the World Green Council, this place is big on championing sustainability and wellness (most apparent in the blissful spa with its deep pampering menu and Balinesestyle treatments). You’ll also find three excellent restaurants serving farm-to-table Indonesian classics and healthy Japanese and Peruvian cuisine, a stunning tiered infinity pool, an organic garden, a mini Balinese temple and a glass yoga pavilion. Rooms: Complete with Indian

www.sixsenses.com/en/resorts/ uluwatu-bali

Setting: On the surf-friendly shores infused spirits and plays DJ-spun

of the much-lauded Canggu Beach on tunes at sunset. the south-west coast of Bali, this artsy Rooms: The 21 atmospheric rooms bolthole is only a 20-minute drive are individually styled, each of them from Seminyak. overflowing with artworks, artefacts Stay: Given that the owner has and antiques to reflect a different a mind-blowing collection of Indonesian period. There’s dark wood Indonesian art and antiques, there’s furniture, ornate paintings, beds with thousands of priceless treasures and crisp white linens and oh-my views of curios on display, both in the public the ocean or surrounding rice fields. spaces and in the rooms. The Dedari Suite and Walter Expect an impossibly pretty flower- Spies Pavilion have indoor-outdoor filled garden with pool, a spa for bathrooms and private plunge pools, soul-lifting therapies and treatments while the Rejang Suite has a private and some impressive dining options spa area with sunken bathtub. for classic Indonesian cuisine with a modern twist. The bar serves Asianwww.tuguhotels.com/hotels/bali ∧

Ocean panoramas, the sky suites, penthouses and cliff pool villas dotted around the grounds offer wall-to-wall luxury. Expect snuggle-worthy beds draped with netting, outdoor decks with ocean-facing bathtubs (some have private plunge pools) and ample smart tech (automatic toilets, air-con sensors, wireless speakers). All accommodation comes with minibars, bathrobes, planet-kind toiletries and Tanamera coffee machines.

Hotel Tugu Bali

@RooftopSW1

SKY-H IG H WI NTE R CHALET AT www.rooftopstjames.com The Trafalgar St. James, 2 Spring Gardens, London, SW1A 2TS

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COMO Shambhala Estate Setting: A 15-minute drive from

Ubud, this foliage-clad holistic refuge is perched above the sacred Ayung River. The hiking and cycling trails of Mount Batur are within easy distance.

Stay: Arguably one of Bali’s most elegant hideaways, the 360-degree pampering is next level. In addition to a resident yoga teacher, Ayurvedic doctor, and dietician, there’s a wealth of results-driven therapies and treatments and a tonne of wellness schedules to whip body and soul into shape. Guests can choose from a slew of activities (gym, tennis, biking, rock climbing) and dine at two restaurants with nutritionists who tailor menus according to fitness or lifestyle goals. Rooms: Spread out across the estate

and surrounded by dense jungle, the 30 suites and standalone villas are set in five uniquely themed residences designed by architect Cheong YewKuan. All have private pools with daybeds, communal lounge areas, open-air soaking tubs, alcohol-free minibars, and decor that maxes out on dark woods, local stone and exquisite fabrics. The larger villas feature treatment rooms and some also have their own Jacuzzis. www.comohotels.com

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Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan Setting: Surrounded by enchanting

green forests, this sublime hillside hideaway with rice bowl-shaped architecture overlooks the Ayung River. Ubud is a 10-minute drive away.

Stay: Everything at this retreat

makes it worthy of its accolades and A-list fans. There’s a sky-bridge for a dramatic entrance, a striking twotiered pool for daily dips and three bars and restaurants for modern

Indonesian cuisine, international fare, and tropical cocktails. Further facilities include a spa for healing rituals and chakra ceremonies, a wellness venue for yoga and meditation and a 24hour fitness centre. Balinese dance workshops can be arranged.

Rooms: The look in the 18 suites

and 42 villas dotted around the grounds is one of grown-up Balinese glamour. All have rice terrace and forest views, polished interiors, indooroutdoor living space, lily ponds for meditating, private plunge pools, and lovely gardens. There are also marbleclad bathrooms with Italian fixtures and fittings, deep-soaking tubs, and outdoor showers. If you’re travelling with a large group, the spacious twobedroom villas are ideal. www.fourseasons.com/sayan ED

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10 of the world’s best car museums

Whether you’re a serious petrolhead or just have a deep love of historic, luxurious and futuristic automobiles, visiting a car museum is good for the motoring soul. Here are the 10 best places on the planet to get up close with a bevy of metal beauties, writes Michelle Dunn

The prancing horse – the Enzo Ferrari Museum in Modena, Italy

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1 Petersen Automotive Museum, Los Angeles, USA Star cars:

• 1998 Cadillac Popemobile • 1925 Rolls Royce Phantom I • 1963 XR-6 Hot Rod • 1923 Mathon V16 T-Bucket Roadster • 1948 Davis Divan • 1955 Mercury D-528 Concept • 1967 Boothill Express • 1922 Chevrolet Series 490 Coupe • Steve McQueen’s 1958 deep black 356A 1600 Super Speedster • Elvis Presley’s De Tomaso Pantera • 1989 Batmobile • 2045 Peugeot LAPD Police Spinner from Bladerunner 2049 (below) www.petersen.org

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Going the extra mile when it comes to location (Los Angeles’ famed Museum Row) and good looks (an award-winning façade of bright red stainless-steel ribbons), Petersen Automotive Museum is as highprofile as it gets. And the inside’s not too shabby either, not least because it was given a top-to-toe refurb in 2015 at a cost of US$125 million. The result is an automotive shrine with over 300 flashy treasures in rotating exhibitions, the best of which being the much-hyped Vault Collection. Here you’ll find some of the world’s most legendary cars, including armoured limos that once carried heads of state and rarely seen vehicles belonging to Hollywood royalty.

The LAPD Police Spinner from Bladerunner 2049

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The Bugatti Veyron 16.4

Cité de l’Automobile, Mulhouse, France Formerly known as the National Automobile Museum, this wheeled wonder is in Mulhouse – the Eastern French city near the Swiss and German borders (a three-hour TGV ride from Paris). Here you’ll find 520 impeccably aligned cars from 98 brands, all based around the Schlumpf Collection – the creation of carobsessed brothers, Hans and Fritz Schlumpf, who made their fortune in textiles. You’ll also find the largest Bugatti collection in the world, made up of 123 vehicles that the pair amassed in secret and stored in their mill warehouses between 1957 and 1976 (the brothers were forced to leave

France in the 1970s, leaving their beloved cars behind).

Star cars:

The Royale Coupe Napoleon (Ettore Bugatti’s personal car), the iconic Bugatti Veyron (above), and the rearengined Bugatti 251 (below), which made its debut at the 1956 French Grand Prix, are worth the entrance fee alone. There’s also a selection of high-end limos from Hispano-Suiza and Isotta-Fraschini, sports coupes such as the 1936 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900A Pinin Farina Berlinetta, and the 1942 Paul Arzens-designed Plexiglass and aluminium bubble car. www.citedelautomobile.com

National Motor Museum, Beaulieu, UK The va-va-voom thrills just keep on rolling at the award-winning National Motor Museum at Beaulieu in the heart of the New Forest. Housed in an estate belonging to the motoring-mad Montagu family, there’s up to 285 vehicles on display, including land speed record breakers, F1 marvels, early carriages, and famous film and TV models such as Del Boy’s three-wheeler, Harry Potter’s Flying Ford Anglia 105E, Mr Bean’s green Mini, and Peter Ustinov’s Mercedes. It’s not just the cars that are on show. Spend your time exploring the magnificent Palace House, which has been in the family since 1538, learn more about Beaulieu’s role in The 1899 Fiat 4 HP

Donald Campbell’s record-breaking Proteus Bluebird CN7

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the second world war in the Secret Army Exhibition, and take rides on the mile-long Monorail and the replica Veteran Bus.

Star cars:

While exhibits change regularly (Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, The James Bond Experience, and The World of Top Gear are past headliners), some magnificent machines in the permanent collection include the 1903 Napier (the oldest surviving British racing car), the Fiat S76 Record nicknamed the Beast of Turin (below), and the 1929 Bolster Special Bloody Mary. Another must-see is the Proteus Bluebird CN7 (bottom) – the first car to set a Land Speed Record in excess of 400mph. www.beaulieu.co.uk The Fiat S76, Beast of Turin

The bus on which Rosa Parks made history by refusing to give up her seat for a white man

Henry Ford Museum, Detroit, USA

the tracks at Greenfield Village’s Weiser Railroad.

Star cars:

The 1961 Lincoln Continental in which JFK was assassinated (below) and the bus where Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat to a white man (above) are star attractions. You can help build a real Model T and learn how the team converted the 1967 Ford Mark IV (winner at France’s 24 hours of Le Mans). Don’t leave without visiting the Automotive Hall of Fame for offerings by more than 200 industry giants, including John M. Mack, Walter P. Reuther and Enzo Ferrari. www.thehenryford.org

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Also known as Motor City (hence Motown) for its rich history as the global centre of the automotive industry (General Motors, Ford and Chrysler were located around the area), Detroit always ups the ante for vintage motor kicks. But there is little that beats the Henry Ford Museum for its three indoor and outdoor spaces: Museum of American Innovation, Greenfield Village and Ford Rouge Factory Tour. Of the 26 million artefacts, highlights include Buckminster Fuller’s circular Dymaxion House, Abraham Lincoln’s rocking chair from Washington’s Ford Theater, and the restored 1897 Baldwin Locomotive that now runs on

Another historic vehicle – in which President Kennedy was assassinated

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Brooklands Museum, Surrey, UK

The world’s first purpose-built motor racing circuit was built here in 1907 and Brooklands Museum now stands on the site. The museum houses collections of cars, motorcycles and bicycles galore, many from the track’s heyday (it closed in 1939). There are tonnes of motoring greats on display, including the 1933 24-litre NapierRailton built by Thomson & Taylor. When you’ve tired of cars, the only Concorde with public access in the south east of England, Barnes Wallis’ Stratosphere Chamber and Harrier jets should be enough to hold your interest.

Star cars:

BMW World, Munich, Germany

Star cars:

If you’re after a new set of wheels, the vending machine that potential owners can use to pick out their cars is a delight. But if you’re just here to dream, take the BMW Plant Tour to see everything from the Press Shop and Engine Construction Shop to the Vehicle Assembly Line. Also head to M Town – a new exhibition space where you can lust over BMW X4 M Automobiles that combine the athleticism of an M Automobile with the temperament of a BMW X4. www.bmw-welt.com

www.brooklandsmuseum.com

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Part of the massive BMW complex in the northern part of Munich, the BMW World (BMW Welt in German) offers a behind-the-scenes insight into this global heavyweight. The 5,000 square metre museum itself is an ambitious architectural stunner filled with BMW-designed engines, turbines, aircraft, motorcycles and heaps of futuristiclooking models and concept cars. It also does a great job in showcasing the brand’s racing history and collaborations with artists including Alexander Calder, Roy Lichtenstein, Frank Stella, Andy Warhol and, Jeff Koons.

The restored Jackson Shed houses a Grand Prix Exhibition celebrating Brooklands as the venue for the first ever British Grand Prix races in 1926 and 1927. Head here for a bunch of pre-war cars including the E.R.A. Type B, Maserati 6CM, Mercedes-Benz W125, Alfa Romeo 12C 36, Auto Union Type C and 1928 Mercedes SSK. Don’t miss the F1 simulator to “drive” a selection of cars on the Brooklands Outer Circuit, Campbell Circuit, and Mountain Circuit.

A privately owned 1937 Morgan Super Sports 3-Wheeler (foreground)

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Mercedes-Benz Museum, Stuttgart, Germany

Bringing the story of the German superbrand to life, this sleek, cutting-edge museum located adjacent to Mercedes-Benz’s factory in Stuttgart-Untertürkheim takes you on a journey that documents more than 130 years of pioneering automotive history. Covering a floor space of 16,500 square metres, there are nine levels with 1,500 exhibits and more than 160 vehicles arranged in chronological order and grouped into two main collections – the Legend Tour narrating the history of the brand and the Collection Tour, which is organised thematically. The two connected tour routes, filled with superbly designed interactive experiences, both end at

banked curve entitled Silver Arrows: Races and Records (above).

Star cars:

The 1921 Mercedes Knight touring car, 1958 Mercedes-Benz 190SL, 1969 futuristic C111 experimental vehicle and a replica of Carl Benz’s 1886 Patentwagen (the original is in the Deutsches Museum in Munich) all make for compelling viewing. Don’t miss the Gallery of Celebrities for Princess Diana’s 500SL, an adapted G-Wagen used by Pope John Paul II and Mercedes-Benz 770s owned by Kaiser Wilhelm II and Emperor Hirohito. www.mercedes-benz.com/en/ classic/museum

Porsche Museum, Stuttgart, Germany

Opened in 2009 as a US$100 million high-concept exhibition space located in a statementmaking building next to the factory, Porsche Museum wows with 80 of the brand’s iconic cars that are permanently on show. Beneath the Delugan Meissldesigned exterior that wows with just three V-shaped columns to support the building, you’re treated to a complete history glittered with several special exhibits or anniversaries that vary each year. There’s also the Porsche in the Mix interactive sound installation that plays the sound of a Porsche of your choice. Another highlight is the interactive Porsche Touchwall – a 12-metre-long installation that covers nine decades of the brand’s history with more than 3,000 pictures, drawings and technical data of almost all vehicles.

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Mullin Automotive Museum, Oxnard, USA

The prototype Type 356 No. 1

the picturesque Cotswolds have now been approved.

Star cars:

Many of the cars displayed have won prestigious awards at Concours d’Elegance events. Highlights include the 1939 Delahaye 165, 1938 Hispano-Suiza H6B Dubonnet Xenia, 1938 Talbot Lago T150 SS, and 1939 Delahaye T165. There’s also the rather exclusive and expensive 1936 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic (below) that was awarded the Best of Show award at the Rodeo Drive Concours d’Elegance in 2018. mullinautomotivemuseum.com

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You can combine your visit to the museum with a factory tour – or even hire a Porsche for the day.

Nicknamed The Best Car Museum You Never Heard Of, the Mullin Automotive Museum is owned by Peter Mullin – the American philanthropist and auto collector who champions the Art Deco era and movement and has a passion for fancy French cars. While open at select times (be sure to check before visiting), you’re treated to some of the prettiest cars in history – many of which were oneoffs or had limited production runs. If you can’t make it to Oxnard, however, Mullin’s plans to build a museum in the UK along with a demonstration track and holiday cottages near Chipping Norton in

Star cars:

In addition to iconic models such as the 356, 550, 911 and 917, the exhibits also include some of Professor Ferdinand Porsche’s outstanding technical achievements from the early 20th century, including the 1948 prototype, Type 356 No. 1 (above). www.porsche.com/museum

Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic

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Enzo Ferrari Museum, Modena, Italy The Enzo Ferrari Museum must be paradise on wheels for fans of the Italian car brand. This museum complex in the motor city of Modena is a tale of two halves; the house where Enzo Ferrari was born in 1898 and the slick glass building featuring a vast car showroom and futuristic automotive design gallery. When you visit, you’ll get to appreciate all things Ferrari from the offset, from the signature yellow paintwork (the background colour for the Prancing Horse logo) to the gigantic wraparound screen that projects a movie about the carmaker’s life story and all of the cars that defined his career. Best of all, to allow you to get the most out of every exhibit, each car is displayed on a raised platform and has correlating plaques with all the stats you need.

Star cars:

The first road Ferrari ever built, the 1947 Ferrari 125 S with a 1500 cc V12 engine, takes pride of place in the museum. There are also more than 20 Ferraris to gaze at as well as cars that Enzo collaborated on such as Alfa Romeos, Fiats and Maseratis. Further highlights of this temple of design-engineering and speed include the blueprint of the Ferrari F40, the last car that l’Ingegnere worked on and more than 30 highperformance engines in the Museum of Engines – the meticulously restored former workshop and office of Alfredo Ferrari, the Great Old Man’s father. www.musei.ferrari.com ED

The 1957 Ferrari Dino

The 1953 Ferrari 340 MM

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Asian bucket list 2020 Friends test the ties that bind in Asia

The Reverie Yacht Sunset Cruise, Ho Chi Minh City

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If misfortune tests the sincerity of friends, what can fortune do for a friendship? Who knows, but it might be worth finding out in Asia where friends are gathering to scoot round the ancient ruins of Angkor Wat, charter yachts in the Mergui Archipelago and explore the mystical seascape of Ha Long Bay. This year, a number of hotels and golf courses from Bali to Burma are leading friends to venues and experiences that may be talked about for years to come. Here’s what’s on offer

A champagne picnic on a private yacht in Ho Chi Minh City Take to the storied Saigon River on The Reverie Saigon’s 60-foot Monte Carlo 6, with a crew of three and a private butler. Spacious enough to comfortably accommodate 10 guests yet suitably petite to navigate tributaries that lead to picturesque mangroves and tucked-away local villages, The Reverie yacht drinks in the wonders of the city’s dynamic thrust for the skies and also reveals the day-today living and traditional commerce that still takes place along the riverfront. The Saigon Intermezzo, a non-stop two-and-a-half-hour sunset cruise that departs in the late afternoon and includes a champagne picnic served as dusk settles on the city is ideal for an intimate gathering of friends. The champagne picnic includes a bottle of Louis Roederer, five prix-fixe menus to choose from, round-trip transfers in a Mercedes-Benz S-Class or a BMW 7 series and service by a Reverie butler.

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Prices start at VND39,000,000 for two persons

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Scoot around Angkor Wat Avoiding the parade of visitors to Angkor Wat can be nigh-on impossible, but with this unique Vespa tour you can get a sneaky peek into temples and ancient sites where few others roam, while scooting past the queues of tour buses and taxis that envelope this great wonder of the world. How else could you skirt the ramparts around Angkor Thom or scale the less beaten tracks around the archaeological park than by sitting on the back of a chauffeur-driven motorbike? These curated tours are unique to Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, the most historical and prestigious resort in Siem Reap.

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Spa-ing partners on Koh Samui Most spa and massage treatments are strictly personal and individual, but a trip to Banyan Tree Samui’s The Rainforest is most definitely a tale for two or more. This luxurious hydrotherapy spa offers your entourage a pathway through a rainforest-themed waterpark of saunas, steams, sprays and showers from hot to ice-cold until you finally emerge – glowing and fluffed – into a pool of waterjets. You can end your 60 or 90-minute treatment lying side by side on hotstone beds, wrapped in towels and sipping herbal tea till you drift into the land of dreams.

Yachting in Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago

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For sea, sun, scuba and sumptuous wining and dining, you could do a lot worse than a private charter taking in the majestic Mergui Archipelago off the coast of southern Myanmar. This remote and fascinating region is home to the ethnic Moken community of fishermen, who are also known as “sea gypsies”. For decades, the 800 islands, lagoons, atolls and coral reefs of the archipelago were off-limits to visitors and they are only now accessible to limited, sustainable tourism. Burma Boating can accommodate groups of up to six on their luxury yachts and schooners from October through to May. Sailing these isolated pristine waters and sharing boating duties with your shipmates should be a bonding experience that is simply like no other.

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Hit the links and then the beach at Ho Tram There are now multiple good incentives for a group trip with your golf-loving friends to Ho Tram, an idyllic emerging beach destination in South Vietnam. One of the most compelling reasons to travel is the chance to take on The Bluffs Ho Tram Strip: the highest-rated course in the country. Set among massive sand dunes on a mostly undeveloped piece of coastline not far from Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam’s commercial capital), The Bluffs scores big on location. But give the course’s designer, Aussie legend Greg Norman credit; he let the twists and turns of the rugged property dictate much of the links-style layout, which Sergio Garcia called “spectacular” after winning an Asian Tour event there in 2015. There’s plenty for non-golfing members of the group to do as well. The Grand Ho Tram Strip, the Bluffs’ stay-and-play partner, has a casino, multiple restaurants and an awardwinning spa. Nearby, the Meliá Ho Tram Ho Tram Beach Resort has beach access as well as a spectacular 1,491 square metre infinity pool with a swim-up bar that is perfect for sociable gatherings between friends. A weekend round of golf at The Bluffs starts at VND5,037,000

Private luxury shopping experience in Taipei The lower floors of Taipei 101, the city’s towering skyscraper, house the stores of just about every luxury brand imaginable, and not surprisingly attract crowds commensurate with its breadth and popularity. Grand Hyatt Taipei has streamlined the experience for VIP guests by connecting them to a personal shopper. VIP attention is arranged at the shops of each visitor’s choice (guests can even skip the shops if they wish and preview the latest designs in the comfort of their suite). After a day of retail therapy we suggest relaxing and refuelling with afternoon tea at Cha Lounge, Grand Hyatt Taipei’s Europeanstyle lounge, where they serve a seasonal selection of sweet and savoury treats and an array of teas and coffees, to the backdrop of a live piano performance. Afternoon tea prices start from NT$880 and pricing for the VIP shopping experience is on a case-by-case basis

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Well-rounded wellness in a natural hot springs resort in Vietnam Alba Wellness Valley by Fusion’s three, five and seven-day wellness voyages help guests chart a course to a more balanced life. The multi-day voyages include accommodation, all nutritionally balanced meals and detox drinks, along with daily wellness activities from hiking and bike rides to calm-inducing water meditation, spa sessions, and extended soaks in the country’s only Japanese-style onsen. The five and seven-day packages also include a healthy cooking class designed to give guests tips on how to bring what they’ve learned home. Local sightseeing trips with a city tour of the former imperial capital at Hue, a local craft village visit, and a trip to Chùa Công Thành pagoda are also part of the flexible schedule.

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The ‘Wellness Voyages’ start from around VND12,300,000 for two nights in a Deluxe Room for one and go up to around VND64,300,000 for a six-night stay in a bungalow for two

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The Anam dips friends in chocolate

The Tempayan’s locally harvested menu at Tanah Gajah The slow-food movement has crawled almost to a standstill in the lush uplands of Bali where the Tanah Gajah Ubud is now plating lunch and dinner fare sprung largely from the grounds of the resort. The ‘Farm to Table’ experience is not merely a matter of eating, however. The two to two-and-ahalf-hour experience is equal parts horticultural survey, food prep and dining, all under the able hand of a Singaporean-born chef. The experience begins with a fortifying drink, and a wade into the organic garden where the maestro holds court among citronella, various basils (holy and purple), curry leaves and Vietnamese coriander. The chef explains the story behind each plant, its properties, how it grows, what it’s used for, when to harvest and other little-known oddities (e.g. you can eat the flower of starfruit). Dinner is served in a purpose-built pagoda covered in Thunbergia creepers and fairy lights that comfortably seats six and looks

out over the rice paddies. Lunch costs £100+ for two and dinner £160+, including garden tour and a three-course lunch or a five-course dinner with a pre-dinner cocktail and farewell gift.

Friends craving a chocolate fix in Vietnam’s hottest new destination Cam Ranh are in for a real treat. Five-star beachfront resort, the Anam, has joined forces with boutique chocolate maker Fifty Fresh Farms, located in the nearby countryside, to launch an indulgent half-day tour dedicated to everything Vietnamese chocolate. The “Vietnamese Chocolate Factory Tour” kicks off with a short educational session about the rich history of “the food of the gods”, before guests inspect a mini cacao farm brimming with cacao trees and embark on a tour of Fifty Fresh Farms’ factory, which produces 100 kg of chocolate daily. Although chocolate lovers won’t see Willy Wonka, they will witness,

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step by step, how the beans morph into sensational-tasting chocolate. Budding chocolate makers don aprons and try their hand at a 40-minute “masterclass”. During the additional 40 minutes it takes for the budding chocolatiers’ concoctions to solidify, guests indulge in a degustation of milk, white and dark chocolates as well as truffles, bonbons, dried fruits covered in chocolate, hot chocolate and brewed cacao at Fifty Fresh Farms’ tasting room. Guests also take the chocolates that they crafted away in a named gift box. Offered daily from The Anam, the tour is priced at VND2,785,000 per person

Mix It up with friends in Ho Tram

A fun mixology workshop on offer at Vietnam’s first Spanish beach club, Breeza Beach Club at Melia Ho Tram Beach Resort, affords friends the opportunity to bring out their inner mixologists together. Destined to be the new “place to be”, with a boho chic and Mediterranean vibe, Breeza features a vast deck with an outdoor cocktail bar at its centre, where the classes take place. To a backdrop of sweeping views of Ho Tram beach, which is only a two-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City, would-be mixologists learn, step by step, how to concoct their favourite cocktails. One of the world’s most acclaimed bartenders, Joseph Baroski, trained the staff at Melia Ho Tram Beach Resort and helped craft their imaginative cocktail menu.

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The mixology workshop is held from 2pm until 3.30pm, every day at VND799,000 per person

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Cycling in the Mekong Delta Vietnam’s Mekong Delta is a paradise for cyclists. With hundreds of kilometres of mostly flat roads and paths wending alongside the region’s innumerable waterways, Can Tho and the surrounding areas are home to scenic local villages, tropical fruit orchards, organic cacao farms, traditional noodle-making houses and more. Azerai Resort Can Tho (right) offers an ideal luxury base for exploring the wonders of the so-called “Nine Dragon River Delta” on bicycle, and the resort can arrange everything needed for an all-day excursion, including bike and helmet rentals as well as the support of an expert local guide. After a day spent pedalling through the rice paddies, head back to the resort for a few sundowners by the pool or the “Flavors of the Mekong” tasting menu at The Cafe. Alternatively, you could get those tired muscles tended to at The Azerai Spa. Azerai Can Tho also has its own fleet of leisurely two-wheelers available for exploring the resort’s lush islet setting. Group full-day cycling tours are priced at VND1,240,000 for adults and VND930,000 for children, while private tours (minimum two people) are priced at VND1,972,000 for adults and 1,479,000 for children

Azerai Resort Can Tho

Feeling Zen with friends in Ha Long Bay beautiful backdrop of Ha Long bay’s Friends cruising UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ha Long Bay together mystical landscape. Jutting out of the emerald waters, could not find a better way to start the towering limestone karsts loom in the day than sunrise tai chi on the sundeck of Paradise Luxury, operated and out of focus as the vessel glides past them. The small, intimate tai chi by Paradise Cruises. Renowned for its meditative movements and health class starts at 6.30am and lasts for 30 benefits, tai chi is all the more special minutes before breakfast is served in on the cruise due to the breathtakingly the vessel’s restaurant. ED Ha Long Bay is a geographical marvel, with endless limestone karsts obscuring the horizon

A New Challenge?

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Israel’s coolest cities

For an eclectic mix of Biblical ruins, fabled historic sites, spectacular deserts, wow-worthy beaches and glorious sunshine, Israel warrants a visit at least once in your lifetime. Here’s some of our favourite cities in the land of milk and honey, writes Michelle Dunn

Jerusalem Yad Vashem Hall of Names

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Jerusalem See and do: Make a beeline for

Also, work your way around the bars, cafes, artisan shops, and galleries in the funky Nahalat Shiva neighbourhood.

Stay and play: The historic King

David Hotel does high-end luxury and panoramic views while the stylish Bezalel Hotel offers chic lodgings with an arty vibe. Make a beeline for upmarket boutiques around Mamilla Avenue and feast on farmfresh Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine at Machneyuda at the edge of the market on Beit Yaakov Street. For nights out, hit the bars in the local neighbourhoods and head to Mirror Bar at Mamilla Hotel or the Jazz Age-style Gatsby Cocktail Room on Hillel Street. ∧

the Old City and the Christian, Jewish, Armenian and Muslim quarters. Marvel at the Dome of the Rock, soak up the atmosphere at the Western (or Wailing) Wall and visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, supposedly the site of the crucifixion and Jesus’ tomb. Further must-sees include the cutting-edge Israel Museum for its artworks and the Dead Sea Scrolls, Mount of Olives for spectacular views, Machane Yehuda Market for its fresh produce and starchef restaurants, and Yad Vashem (Holocaust History Museum) for its haunting monuments and exhibitions devoted to preserving the memory of the Holocaust.

Street market in East Jerusalem Mirror Bar at Mamilla Hotel

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Tel Aviv See and do: Take a walking tour

of the UNESCO-listed White City and stroll along Rothschild Boulevard for wonderful Bauhaus architecture. Visit Tel Aviv Museum of Art to check out contemporary masterpieces, and enjoy a hot air balloon ride over Park HaYarkon. Further thrills include exploring the ancient port city of Jaffa (free walking tours depart daily at 2pm from the clock tower), lingering in the coffee shops around Neve Tzedek, seeking out sand space at the beach, and sampling sizzling street food at the famous Carmel Market. You can also join the locals for a swim at Gordon Pool, an

Eilat Olympic-size swimming pool dating back to 1956.

Stay and play: The chic Norman Hotel appeals with two top-notch restaurants and an infinity pool, while the Fabric Hotel offers hip interiors (the clue’s in the title given that the building was once a sewing factory). Head to the retro-themed Bellboy Bar at Hotel Berdichevsky for an eclectic and unique drinks menu or try Imperial Craft Cocktail Bar for speciality concoctions and expert mixologists (it scooped the Drinks International Magazine’s award for Best Bar in Africa and the Middle East).

See and do: Enjoy a 30-minute

swim with dolphins at Dolphin Reef Beach, marvel at turtles and stingrays at the Underwater Marine Observatory and snorkel and dive in the crystal-clear Red Sea waters at Coral Beach Nature Reserve. Also visit the mist-shrouded rainforest at the Botanical Garden of Eilat, explore Hidden Lake at Timna Park and hike the narrow trails around the stunning Red Canyon. For adventures further afield, take a jeep safari ride into the desert (day and night tours are available) and arrange day trips to the to the ancient “Rose City” of Petra in Jordan and the biblical Mount Sinai in Egypt (the views from the 2,285-metre summit are incredible).

Stay and play: The opulent

Tel Aviv waterfront Bellboy Bar at Hotel Berdichevsky

Hilton Eilat Queen of Sheba Hotel has an attractive Red Sea location and excellent facilities, while the boutique-style Reef Eilat Hotel by Herbert Samuel ticks the boxes for small-scale luxe. Head to Pedro for dishes paired with Red Sea Winery offerings and try 5th Avenue Eilat for New York-style cocktails and five global cuisines: Asian, American, Italian, Mexican, and Oriental. For nightlife, the Crazy Elephant and Selena are the two spots that put Eilat on the clubbing map for impressive DJ sets.

The Red Canyon, 20km from Eilat

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Tiberias See and do: Make the most of

woodwork, wall of religious icons, and three chapels.

Stay and play: Book the marinafacing Caesar Premier Tiberias for its lagoon-style pool and Sea of Galilee views or try the Shirat Hayam Boutique Hotel for period architecture and overall elegance. To refuel, head to Decks for barbecued meats, Yisrael’s Kitchen for homecooked country dishes and Bora Bora Beach Bar or Choco Bar for anytime drinks. The amphitheatre at Beit Gabriel is also worth a visit for all manner of film screenings, musical performances and exhibitions. ∧

the Sea of Galilee’s glorious shores at the buzzy Bora Bora Beach or the more relaxed Tsemach Beach, take an afternoon or evening stroll along Yigal Alon Promenade to marvel at the boats and marina (you’ll find craft stalls here in high season), and visit Amdur Fine Gallery for works by contemporary Israeli artists. Also visit the tombs of the great Jewish sages, feast on delicious falafel at the city’s market and visit two significant churches: St. Peter’s for its peaceful courtyard and interior paintings and Monastery of the Twelve Apostles for its elaborate

Tiberias, on the Sea of Galilee

Capernaum - Greek Orthodox church “The twelve apostles”

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Haifa See and do: Take the cable

car that runs from Bat Galim Promenade to the Stella Maris lookout point on Mount Carmel, visit Stella Maris Carmelite Monastery and Elijah’s Cave, and spend time at the UNESCO-listed Bahá’í Gardens – an extraordinary staircase of 19 terraces around the Shrine of the Bab, the second holiest site in the Bahá’í Faith. Stroll around the German Colony for the city’s best pubs, restaurants, shops and art galleries; put your haggling skills to the test at the Arab market in Wadi Nisnas; and soak up wonderful sea views from Louis Promenade. When it’s time to hit the sand and sea, Dado Beach on the city’s southern shore is an ideal spot.

Stay and play: Try the much-

lauded Dan Panorama Haifa Hotel for its excellent facilities and consider Templers Boutique Hotel for its quirky interiors, a great German Colony setting and awesome garden views. The Baha’i Gardens at Haifa

Netanya See and do: Pose next to costumed

For upscale eats, book a table at Limousine for sublime steaks, Fattoush for Middle Eastern cuisine, or Hanamal 24 for its Frenchinspired cooking. Cracking nights out are guaranteed at Libira Brewpub, the city’s first microbrewery, which has garnered attention for its satisfying beer and food menu.

mannequins at the Museum of Yemenite Jewish Heritage, learn about the history of the city at Netanya Museum and visit Utopia Orchid Park at Kibbutz Bahan for its enchanting flowers, tropical plants, rainforest and challenging maze. Shop for high-end brands and international staples at Sharon Mall, stock up on fresh produce at Netanya City Market, try for a lucky strike at Arbel Bowling. Head to Poleg Beach for football and water sports – or simply glue yourself to a sun lounger on the golden sands at Blue Bay Beach, Zanz Beach, Amphi Beach, Herzel Beach and Onot Beach.

Stay and Play: The contemporary-

style David Tower Hotel Netanya – MGallery by Sofitel and the sleek Leonardo Plaza Netanya Hotel are good shouts if a central location is important (both are fabulously close to the beach). Alternatively, book Kikar Boutique Hotel for its setting on the promenade and Ha’atzmaut Square. Try Miriam’s Grill for superb Moroccan cuisine, Alabama for grilled-to-perfection meat dishes with delicious sides and Jacko for an ever-changing seafood menu. ED

INTRODUCING: UMNYA DUNE CAMP – SLEEP UNDER THE STARS IN THE SAHARA DESERT Nestled in the majestic Sahara, Umnya Dune Camp is Morocco’s most luxurious desert camp, unparalleled by any other.

Throughout history, those in search of enlightenment have sought out the isolation and otherworldly atmosphere of the desert, and the Umnya Dune Camp offers luxury and peace that other landscapes could only dream of. The camp is situated in Mhamid El Ghizlane in the Souss-Massa-Draa region. In comparison to the over-saturated Agafay Desert – where most tourists of Marrakech, wishing to experience desert culture, are known to head – this region is untouched beauty. During their stay, guests of Umnya truly feel like they are the only people on Earth. The pure tranquillity and calmness of the rolling dunes and omnipresent sand provide the ultimate destination for guests to decompress and unwind. Luxury and comfort are at the forefront of Umnya, and no detail has gone unnoticed. The camp has carefully constructed canvas tents, draped in flowing white fabrics and beautifully decorated with local craftsmanship and memorabilia. The beds are dressed in the finest linen and fluffy robes are provided for all guests. Each tent has its own large private area, and boasts a sprawling balcony with a fireplace. Guests even have the option to sleep under the stars.

The camp’s on-site restaurant, Lily Rose, boasts an authentic Moroccan menu with a fantastic succession of flavours – highlights are the fresh mint tea and locally-produced honey at breakfast, colourful salads at lunch and rich tagines for dinner. At dinner, guests are welcomed to sit by the fire pit and marvel at the constellations, whilst listening to the sounds of Berber culture as live music is performed by the nomads. This is Desert dining at its finest. While a trip to the desert is worthy enough for simply switching off from the busy tempo of life, there is no shortage of things to do at Umnya. The camp offers a plethora of activities, including sunrise/sunset camel rides, Luxury dining experiences, Stargazing, Golf practice, Sand Boarding, Trekking with Nomads, Yoga, quad biking and Jeep Wrangler Dune driving – allowing guests to experience the true Sahara. Umnya also has many exciting yoga, fitness and mindfulness retreats planned for the season. The first yoga retreat is taking place in November, with places available to book now. It takes 3 hours to reach Umnya Dune Camp from Zagora’s Airport, and the camp can be reached by 4x4 or Luxury Jeep Wrangler service, provided and organised by the camp. This journey is an adventure in itself, taking guests through breathtaking routes and stopping at the interesting sites the Sahara displays. Prices start from €365pp per night, and there are a range of packages available.

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For more information, high-res images, and review opportunities please contact Georgia on Georgia.smith@flamepublicity.com

AUSTRALIA

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Eight alternative American destinations The US is teeming with awe-inspiring bucket list destinations and experiences, but beyond America’s most notable cities and regions are some truly remarkable emerging hotspots. From low-key beach breaks to culinary-focused city stays, here are eight alternative destinations in the US that are just waiting to be explored

For modern art and award-winning food: Baltimore, Maryland While Baltimore may have made its name as one of America’s most important port cities in the 1700s, today the Charm City is experiencing one of the largest millennial booms in the country, with a growing class of entrepreneurs and artists. As a result, the city has a thriving food, drink and art scene. Art lovers should head to the Baltimore Museum of Art, home to the largest collection of Henri Matisse’s works in the world and to the American Visionary Art Museum, which showcases the work of selftaught artists and encourages visitors to participate in walk-in workshops. The city’s food scene has also enjoyed a culinary renaissance, with new food halls such as the Lexington Market opening up and restaurants with award-winning chefs at the helm, including The Woodberry Kitchen.

For wilderness and adventure: Mammoth Lakes, California Most visitors to California make a beeline for SoCal beaches, but those looking for an outdoor adventure combining picturesque scenery with excellent culinary options should make time for Mammoth Lakes, in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. During the summer, Mammoth offers wilderness camping, mountain

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Standing Tall, one of Dallas’ Travelling Man series of statues

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For arts districts and craft beer: Dallas, Texas Austin has long been favoured as Texas’ hip city escape, but visitors who head north to Dallas will discover a city with a flourishing arts scene, as well as some of the state’s best bars and restaurants. The Dallas Museum of Art features 24,000 items stretching over 5,000 years of history, while in the leafy suburb of North Oak Cliff, the Bishop Arts District is home to independent shops selling locally designed jewellery, art and all-natural beauty products. Deep Ellum is the spot for an alternative night out; colourful murals line the streets, and craft-beer bars sit side-by-side with blues venues.

Baltimore skyline

biking, hiking and fly fishing, while skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing activities take over in the winter months. Accommodation ranges from cool campsites and luxurious hotels to the Tamarack Lodge – Mammoth’s most secluded resort, where cosy cabins line the water’s edge of Twin Lakes.

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For jazz and art deco architecture: Tulsa, Oklahoma There’s more to Tulsa than its selfbilled name ‘the Oil Capital of the World’ – although the wealth generated from the industry is what helped create its beautiful Art Deco centre. Those keen to explore the ‘Deco District’ should start at Decopolis – a museum, souvenir shop and bookstore that gives out free walking maps highlighting the city’s magnificent architecture, including the

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For history and seafood: Portland, Maine Portland, Oregon has been celebrated as a quirky holiday destination for years, but its namesake on the east coast, Portland, Maine, has plenty to offer travellers interested in history and coastal cuisine. The port city was first settled in 1632 and its rich maritime heritage can be experienced through historical walking tours or a visit to the Maine Historical Society Museum. Seafood lovers can enjoy a lobster roll from one of Portland’s many seafood shacks or opt for an elevated experience at the James Beard Award-winning Eventide Oyster Company. Not only does this offer some of the best seafood dishes in town, but they also come with a signature Bubbly Mary served alongside (a Bloody Mary with cava).

Philcade Building, with its art deco architecture exhibit. Meanwhile, music lovers should head to the Oklahoma Jazz Hall of Fame at Union Station to learn about music legends and attend Sunday jazz concerts in the concourse.

Boston Avenue United Methodist Church is considered one of the finest art deco churches in the United States

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For gastronomy and the great outdoors: Tucson, Arizona Tucson was designated as the USA’s first UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2016 and it has some of the best tacos in the country thanks to its location an hour’s drive north of the Mexican border. It also has so much to offer outdoors lovers, including hiking through the Sabino Canyon and Saguaro National Park, exploring three miles of passageways and caves

at Colossal Cave Mountain Park or horse riding and rock climbing at White Stallion Ranch. Accommodation options include Hotel McCoy – a colourful midcentury-inspired modern art hotel that is suitable for laid-back travellers, and Posada by Joshua Tree House – a serene five-suite inn that is located within 38 acres of forest, perfect for nature-lovers. Saguaro National Park

The Louisville skyline set against the Ohio river

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For a vibrant LGBTQ scene: Fort Lauderdale, Florida Fort Lauderdale is just an hour’s drive north of Miami and has beaches and bars to rival its famous neighbour. The highly anticipated Seminole Hard Rock Hotel – a huge casino and hotel complex built in the shape of a guitar featuring 469 rock star-worthy rooms and suites, waterslides and live events – opened in late 2019. Fort Lauderdale is also one of the most LGBTQ friendly destinations in the world and is home to the world’s first LGBTQ Visitor Centre, which showcases the attractions and bars that may interest visitors. ED

The Seminole Hard Rock Hotel

For dining and distilleries: Louisville, Kentucky Home to the Kentucky Derby and the Muhammad Ali Centre, Louisville is ideal for an easy-going city stay with excellent restaurants. The city’s burgeoning food scene ranges from contemporary American cuisine with skyline views at the rooftop restaurant 8UP, to thick and cheesy Louisville pizza at Impellizzeri. You can enjoy bourbon, at your pick of distilleries and bars. Gerstle’s in Crescent Hill serves signature deepfried cheese balls with bourbon and side of live blues and rock’n’roll, and Old Louisville’s 610 Magnolia pairs locally-distilled bourbon and wine with multi-course tasting menus.

Dine out in style at 8UP

Angkor Wat viewed over the Northern Reflection Pond

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10 cool things to do in Cambodia

The rising star of Southeast Asia, Cambodia has it all; postcard-perfect islands, awe-inspiring temples, atmospheric colonial cities, white-sand beaches and Tarzan-worthy jungles. Here’s how to make the most of the country touted as the Kingdom of Wonder, writes Michelle Dunn

Be wowed by Angkor’s temples

Few Cambodian monuments garner as much attention as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Angkor Archaeological Park – the fabled temple complex covering 154 square miles. And while the star of the show is easily the jaw-droppingly huge Angkor Wat (the former heart of the Khmer Empire built between 1113 and 1150 AD by King Suryavarman II to honour the Hindu god Vishnu), the runner-up is Jayavarman VII’s Bayon at Angkor Thom – the fortified state-temple dominated by stone-chiselled faces on its 54 towers. The best of the rest includes the vine-clad Ta Prohm (featured in the 2001 movie, Tomb Raider), the arty Banteay Srei, the largely unspoiled Preah Khan and the ornate Banteay Samre. Aim for a sunrise or sunset visit to beat the crowds and spend quality time in Siem Reap, the gateway temple town turned trendy hotspot celebrated for its glamorous boutique hotels, fashionable restaurants, designer shops and street food stalls.

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Sail along the mighty Mekong River

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Rising from its source high in the Tibetan Plateau and snaking through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia before emptying into the South China Sea, the 3,000-mile-long Mekong is the longest river in Southeast Asia and accounts for up to 25 per cent of the world’s freshwater catch. While there’s a variety of ways to sail along this iconic waterway, those who like their luxuries should book a trip on Heritage Line’s majestic RV Jayavarman, a Golden Age-inspired cruise vessel with lashings of intricate woodcarvings, art deco-style interiors and five-star elegance. Measuring 57.8 metres (190 feet) from bow to stern, it has 27 staterooms with floor-toceiling sliding doors opening onto private balconies, a smart spa, sophisticated wining and dining options and a lovely sundeck Apsara dancing aboard with Jacuzzi RV Jayavarman Packages and itineraries vary, but most stop off at Ankor Wat, the Mekong Delta and Cambodia’s buzzy capital, Phnom Penh. Al fresco dining on the RV Jayavarman

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Soak up history in Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh offers an eclectic mix of experiences, but you’ll need to get your head around Cambodia during the devastating Khmer Rouge era. Make your first stop the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Also known as S-21 Prison, it was the largest detention and torture centre. Follow this with a visit to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek – the extermination camp where three million civilians were murdered between 1975 and 1979. Later, head to the 19th-century Royal Palace to marvel at the Silver Pagoda and Baccarat-crystal Emerald Buddha, spend time at the National Museum of Cambodia to admire incredible Khmer sculptures and take a tuk-tuk tour around the city. Further thrills include browsing the stalls glinting with gold and silver jewellery at Psar Thmei (New Market), joining the locals for a morning workout at the Olympic Stadium and sampling all manner of authentic cuisine from the restaurants and food trucks.

The Emerald Buddha at Phnom Penh’s Royal Palace

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See the floating villages of Tonle Sap Lake

After a busy day of temple-hopping, there’s little that beats watching a hypnotic Apsara – the classical national dance dating back to the 7th century, named by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Of all the dinner and dance shows in Siem Reap, it’s the Apsara Terrace at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor in the leafy French Quarter that grabs the limelight. Here you can enjoy an awesome performance by costumed Cambodian dancers and Khmer martial art experts while tucking into a sumptuous feast of Pan-Asian barbeque cuisine. Tickets are available throughout the year, with performances on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday from April to September, and on Wednesday to Sunday from October to March. Another crowd-pleaser is the Angkor Village Resort Apsara Theatre, an elaborate venue where performers creatively bring history to life in a 90-minute dance spectacular every night from 8pm. ∧

Just ten miles from Siem Reap, the 1,000-squaremile Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia and a UNESCO World Heritagelisted biosphere thanks to its three zones: open lake, freshwater swamp forest and seasonally flooded grasslands. To truly experience these life-giving waters, take a half-day tour on a traditional long tail boat. Visit during the rainy season (June to October) for a glimpse of river communities living in colourful floating villages surrounded by waters that can reach 14 metres deep. There are four main villages on the tourism trail – Chong Kneas, Mechrey, Kampong Phluk and Kampong Khleang – and all can be easily accessed from Siem Reap. It’s truly heart-stirring to see fishing families living in makeshift stilted homes and going about their daily business in a place where everything floats: supermarkets, restaurants, schools, churches and even police stations.

Watch a classical Apsara dance show

A traditional Apsara dancer

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Swim with elephants in Mondulkiri

Dine on delicious Khmer cuisine

While foodie offerings from Cambodia tend not to be as well-known as those of its neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam, they are well worth shouting about. Khmer cuisine has its own distinct flavour and it’s less spicy and goes much easier on sugar and chilli. The most famous dishes are fish amok – a melt-in-the-mouth affair with a creamy sauce made with lemongrass, turmeric, ginger and coconut milk all wrapped in a banana leaf; and banana blossom salad – an ensemble of stir-fried banana flower, onion, lemon, garlic and fried shallots with a lime topping. Also popular are kuy teav – noodle soup made with beef or pork bones and rice vermicelli; and beef loc lac, strips of beef served on a bed of lettuce leaves, cucumber, tomatoes, and onions. If you have a sweet tooth, try num chak kachan – Khmer layer cake with coconut cream; rolled banana cake; pumpkin custard; and mango with sweet sticky rice. ∧

Cambodia is home to a remarkable selection of wildlife, especially at Virachey National Park (sun bears, tigers, clouded leopards), Ream National Park (pelicans, rhesus macaques, dolphins), and Botum Sakor National Park (Indochinese tiger, Bengal slow loris, pileated gibbon). But if you like your nature experiences a bit quirkier, head to the eco-friendly Elephant Valley Project at Mondulkiri – a 1600-hectare sanctuary staffed by volunteers passionate about the care and conservation of injured, abandoned, overworked and orphaned elephants. Catering for up to 12 visitors at any one time, both half-day and full-day tours can be arranged to watch these gentle beasts hunting for food in the forest and spraying each other with mud. You can even arrange to swim and bathe with them in the waterfall. Best of all, it’s free from any gimmicks, riding elephants is not allowed and all donations go directly to improving the sanctuary.

Traditional fish amok curry

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Stay at one of the hippest hotels

Cambodia has no shortage of luxury hotels, from chic and arty boutiques to private resorts on tropical isles. Among the best is Six Senses Krabey Island, a five-star island paradise with 40 jungle-set villas with private pools, a vast spa for traditional Khmer treatments and a dizzying selection of day-to-night activities. Other upscale properties include the 63-room Alila Villas on Koh Russey for its impressive pool area and wonderful stretch of beach and the intimate 12-suite Amansara at Angkor for its two pools and eye-catching dining room with walk-in wine cellar. Equally stay-worthy is the sleek Rosewood Phnom Penh – the tallest hotel in the city with a glamorous setting on the top 14 floors of a 39-storey steel and glass skyscraper. In addition to 175 spacious rooms with palatial bathrooms, you’ll find an in-house art gallery, Japanese restaurant, 37th-floor terrace bar, 24-hour fitness centre, swimming pool and spoiling spa.

The stunning view from Rosewood Phnom Penh

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Eat crab in the seaside town of Kep

Once a sleepy seaside village, Kep has transformed itself into an up-and-coming paradise for the sun-worshipping Cambodian crowd. But it’s most famous for crustaceans, especially those yanked fresh out of the sea and sold to wide-eyed visitors and locals at crab market. Haggling is expected and prices change daily, but you’ll get to inspect your crab and request to have it steamed, boiled, fried, and served with green Kampot peppercorns and rice. Further must-dos include hitting the trails at Kep National Park, visiting the salt fields, strolling around abandoned mansions from the 1960s and enjoying cocktails and seafood-inspired dishes at Knai Bang Chatt’s chic The Sailing Club restaurant and bar. You can also take a 30-minute boat ride to nearby Rabbit Island, an off-the-tourist-trail idyll complete with small wooden food shacks, basic bungalows, swathes of sand and very little else.

Explore the south coast’s tropical islands

For a true castaway vibe, Cambodia’s south coast has more than 60 tropical islands – all easily reached from the coastal hubs of Kep, Sihanoukville and Koh Kong. Head to the idyllic Koh Ru, also known as Bamboo Island, for sand lazing and hammock swinging, try Koh Tang for diving and snorkelling and visit Koh Sdach for glimpses of traditional fishing life. If you’d prefer somewhere where you’re unlikely to see another soul, make your way to Koh Rong. Located near the coast of Sihanoukville, this place really does have it all: talcum-soft sands, crystalline swimming waters, coral reefs and jungle interiors for hikers. Not-to-be-missed spots include Long Beach, also known also Sok San Beach, for its four-mile stretch of pristine white sand (it was used in the reality TV show, Survivor) and Lonely Beach for its remote location on the island’s northernmost tip. Life here is as far from the party scene as it gets. ED

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The former Portuguese colony of Macau, now known as the Macau Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China, is a small, autonomous region on the southern coast of mainland China. Despite its miniscule size of just 11.8 square miles, the territory is the most densely populated nation in the world. Due to its colonial history, after just one visit it is easy to notice the variety of cultural influences that have shaped the country into what it is today. With strong Portuguese, American and Chinese influences, it is hard to find anywhere else quite like Macau. A trip to the Cotai Strip on the southern island is sure to give you a sense of deja-vu if you’ve ever spent time in Las Vegas. With familiar hotels such as the Four Seasons, the Venetian and the Parisian scattered along this

strip, it’s easy to see why the small region has been nicknamed the Las Vegas of the East. Countless casinos, luxury hotels and gourmet restaurants have meant that this area is extremely popular among China’s wealthiest businesspeople. The country’s casinos alone generated a staggering US$38 billion in revenue in 2012, six times more than Las Vegas, causing many to reconsider this nickname and instead label Las Vegas as the Macau of the West. It may appear strange that such a tiny nation can generate such colossal revenue, but when considering China’s strict gambling laws, the figures make much more sense. Although Las Vegas reaps in far more tourists per year, Macau can attract some of the more serious high-rollers from all over Asia. Featuring one of the world’s largest high-end shopping malls, nineteen

Michelin-Star restaurants, and more five-star hotels than any other city on the planet, it is no wonder why Asia’s wealthiest flock to Macau to spend their money. Of course, there is much more to Macau than just gambling.

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Macau at a glance What happens in Vegas... doesn’t come close to what happens in Macau, writes Toby Vignoles

The glamour and glitz of Macau’s prestigious hotels and casinos can often overshadow the distinctlyPortuguese old town, on the northern island. While you will still find extravagant hotels in this part of the country, such as the Grand Lisboa, The 261m, 47-storey Grand Lisboa hotel, also known as the Giant Pineapple

the old town is also bursting with culture and history. In Senado Square especially, there are constant reminders of the Portuguese reign, which lasted for four-hundred years up until 1999. Filled with pastel-coloured neoclassical Portuguese architecture, the old town still feels distinctly European. On top of this, the mosaiclike pavement in much of the north island is very reminiscent of that seen on the coasts of Brazil, another former-Portuguese colony, and also Portugal’s capital city, Lisbon. This classic colonial architecture provides a stark contrast to the more artificial and elaborate buildings that you will see elsewhere in the city, emphasising the highly diverse culture of this small Chinese region. A trip to this part of Macau will also leave you spoilt for choice of both Chinese and Portuguese restaurants,

shops and landmarks, at a much lower cost than on the infamous Cotai Strip. Macau is easily accessible to anyone travelling to China or Hong Kong. With a large port at the north of the country, Macau is only a two-hour ferry ride from Hong Kong or a few hours on the coach from Guangzhou, the capital city of Guangdong province (Canton). On top of this, Macau International Airport is in close proximity to the Cotai Strip, allowing for easy access to this elite city. Whether you are visiting for business or leisure, Macau is sure to give you an over-indulgent taste of what life is like for some of the wealthiest people in Asia, as well as providing insight into the rich cultural heritage that was left behind by centuries of Portuguese reign. It truly is one of the world’s most executive destinations. ED

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10 amazing things to do in Sri Lanka

Hanging like a teardrop from the southern tip of India, Sri Lanka is a persuasive draw for lovers of palm-fringed beaches, lush rainforests, colonial architecture, elephant-filled national parks and fluorescent green tea plantations. Here’s Michelle Dunn’s pick of the ten best things to do

Enjoy a brewed awakening in hill country

Given that nearly five per cent of the Sri Lankan population works in the billion-dollar tea industry, it’s fair to say this is one of the best places on the planet for a cuppa (locals tend to drink theirs very strong with milk and sugar). But life here wasn’t always about the humble brew. The country’s superpower was coffee until 1869, when booming production was blighted by a fungal leaf disease that devastated the nation’s crops. Nowadays, tea is big business and there’s nowhere better to learn about picking, rolling, drying, cutting, and grading than hill country – an enchanting region in the southern heartlands where hillsides draped with emerald-coloured tea plantations take centre stage. You’ll also find plenty of estates and factories offering guided tea tours and tastings, including Halpewatte Tea Factory in Ella and Amba Estate in Baddegama. Also head five miles northeast of Haputale to visit Dambetenne Tea Factory – the very spot chosen by Scottish tea baron Sir Thomas Lipton upon which to build his empire.

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Take a midnight hike to the top of Adam’s Peak

Adam’s Peak is a fair climb, but well worth it

Visit the UNESCO-listed hill capital of Kandy

Uga Bay Hotel on Pasikuda Beach

The Royal Botanic Gardens

Sri Lanka’s star continues to rise with style-hunters, so it’s unsurprising that hoteliers are keeping things on the right side of chic and contemporary. And few places are as effortlessly cool as Uga Bay, a five-star gem right on Pasikuda Beach. Not only does this place assure dazzling Indian Ocean views from all 44 rooms, but it also comes with an infinity pool, underground spa, and high-end design throughout. Other glamorous picks include Santani Wellness Resort for its minimalist hillside rooms and yoga and Ayurveda-centric packages, and Chena Huts for its palm-thatched residences, private plunge pools, luxurious jungle spa and easy access to Yala National Park. Also consider the newly-opened Owl and the Pussycat, a whimsical hideaway just a 15-minute tuk-tuk ride from the heritage city of Galle. You’ll be spoiled with 17 immaculate rooms and suites, tantalising cuisine paired with fine wines, a beach shack for cocktails, and a wealth of activities and water sports, including sailing, surfing, diving and paddle-boarding.

Offering arts and whimsy on a grand scale, Sri Lanka’s second city of Kandy is located in the island’s emerald-swathed heart. Complete with all the markings of a cultural capital, the thrills are endless: bustling streets, colonial architecture, ancient temples, insanely beautiful gardens, and an artificial lake that forms the ideal backdrop. But it’s the goldenroof Temple of the Sacred Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa) built by the Kandyan kings between 1687 and 1707 that’s the headline-grabber. Not only is the sacred tooth the country’s most important religious relic (it belonged to The Buddha), but it’s hidden from prying eyes in a gold casket in a heavily-guarded room. Other standout attractions include the Royal Botanic Gardens for its Instaworthy flora and fauna (the orchid garden is stunning); the Kandyan Art Association Hall and Cultural Centre for its traditional dance and music show; and the National Museum of Kandy for its 5,000 artefacts. Also climb the stairs to the gleaming white Bahiravokanda Vihara Buddha statue for the best city views. ∧

Also known as Sri Pada (sacred footstep) and Samanalakande (butterfly mountain), Adam’s Peak stands at 2,243 metres tall (7,359 feet) in Sri Lanka’s southern hill country. Unless you’re ridiculously fit, climbing the 5,500 crumbling stone steps usually takes a minimum of four hours and most tend to tackle it just after midnight, reaching the summit for sunrise, which is nothing short of spectacular. There are handrails along the way (keep to the right and let the super-fit overtake), a Buddhist monastery at the highest point and stupendous views from pretty much everywhere. You’ll also hear a bell that’s customary for pilgrims to ring as many times as they’ve reached the peak. Another show-stealer is the Sacred Footprint – the 1.8-metre indentation near the summit that means all things to all religions: Hindus believe it to be Shiva, Buddhists claim it as Buddha and Christians and Muslims are adamant it’s Adam’s first step after being exiled from the Garden of Eden.

Check into one of the cool boutique hotels

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Bliss out on Indian Oceanbacked beaches

It’s all white sands and impossibly blue Indian Ocean waters along Sri Lanka’s 830-mile coastline, so ideal for those wanting to spend a few hours glued to their sun lounger after long days of sightseeing. Some of the best beachy hotspots include Hiriketiya for its beautiful horseshoe bay, Nilaveli Beach for its away-from-it-all vibe and rustic fishing boats, and Arugam Bay for its surfing and dolphin-watching trips. There’s also Mirissa for palm treeflanked sands, crystalline swimming waters and blue and sperm whale sightings; Bentota for year-round water sports (sailing, jet skiing, windsurfing, snorkelling, kayaking); and the banana-shaped Unawatuna for the most magical of sunsets. Another bucket-list must is Hikkaduwa, a former hippy hangout that was left reeling from the devastating Boxing Day tsunami of 2004. Nowadays, it’s back on track as a haven of sandy bliss complete with offshore coral reefs for snorkelling and resolutely good surfing between November to March.

Be awed by the ancient Sigiriya Rock Fortress

Of all Sri Lanka’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it’s the 660-feet-high Sigiriya Rock (also called Lion Rock) that garners the most attention. Considered one of the Eight Wonders of the World, this is a rock star like no other. Rising from the plains in the northern Matale District near the town of Dambulla, it’s actually a lavish citadel built 1,600 years ago by King Kasyapa – the roguish monarch who arranged for his army chief to murder to his father by burying him alive in a wall. Nowadays, the landmark tempts with fountains, temples, caves, ponds, canals, criss-cross trails, lookouts, spectacular landscaped water gardens and two giant lion paws that guard the main gateway. Try to beat the crowds and arrive early in the morning to climb the 1,200 steps, marvel at the Sigiriya Frescoes for their ancient paintings of Kasyapa’s harem and gaze in amazement at the Mirror Wall – a brick parapet wall with graffiti inscribed between the 6th and 14th centuries.

Tour the spectacular Dambulla Cave Temples

Sitting atop a 160-metre-high rock towering over the plains of southern Dambulla, the UNESCO-listed Dambulla Cave Temples is the 2,000-year-old temple turned tourist attraction that’s best visited early in the morning or in the afternoon. There are five separate shrine-like caves at this ancient pilgrimage site, all with unique interiors, murals and Buddha statues. Even if you don’t have time for all five, it would be remiss to leave without visiting the splendid Maharaja Vihara (Temple of the Great Kings) – the largest in the complex at 52 metres from east to west and 23 metres from the entrance to the back wall. Named for its two great kings, this is home to 16 standing and 40 seated Buddhas (one of which is under an archway decorated with dragons) as well as images of Hindu gods and a vessel that collects spring water used for sacred rituals. Also visit the smaller Devana Alut Viharaya (Second New Temple) – the most modern of the temples with images made of brick and plaster instead of traditional stone.

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Watch The Gathering at Minneriya National Park

A year-round wonderland in the North Central Province of Sri Lanka and just a ten-minute drive east from Habarana, the relatively small Minneriya National Park does wildlife on a grand scale. But the park is at its visual best during The Gathering – an annual event from April to October that peaks in August and September, when herds of wild beasts numbering 300 or more search the area for drinking water and fresh green grass within a few square kilometres of the vast Minneriya Reservoir. Famed as Asia’s largest gathering of elephants at any one time, the best time to take a safari tour here is just as the sun is setting. Expeditions are regulated, jeeps keep a respectful distance from the animals and tourists must remain inside the vehicle at all times. There are also tonnes of other wildlife-spotting opportunities in the forest, scrub and wetlands – you’ll see leopards, macaques, sambars, spotted deer, sloth bears and purple-faced langur monkeys.

Make the most of Sri Lanka’s deep-sea surprises

While diving and snorkelling adventures depend heavily on the seasons – October to May is best for the west and south-west coast and May to October is ideal for the north-east coast – you’ll find abundant marine life in Sri Lanka’s warm Indian Ocean waters. There are approximately 200 wrecks too. These include HMS Hermes, the world’s first purpose-built aircraft carrier, which sank off the coast in 1942 and SS Rangoon, the 66-metre-long sail and steam-powered boat that now lies opposite the historic Fort of Galle. Equally worthy of your attention are the island’s numerous whalewatching tours around the waterways – especially in the three-mile stretch of ocean between Mirissa and Dondra off the southern coast. While swimming with whales is not allowed, time it right (from February to mid-March) and you’ll get to see glorious blue whales along with sperm, fin, minke, humpbacks, brydes, and pods of spinner and spotted dolphins.

Spend a day in the quaint city of Nuwara Eliya

Located at 2,000 metres above sea level in the heart of Hill Country, the impossibly pretty city of Nuwara Eliya, also known as Little England, is most celebrated for its British village vibe, colonial-era bungalows and picturesque gardens. Head here to enjoy afternoon tea with all the trimmings at the Grand Hotel, tour one of the plentiful tea plantations and take a 20-minute speedboat ride on Gregory Lake. You can also play a round of golf, enjoy a relaxing stroll around the 27acre Victoria Park (named in honour of Queen Victoria’s 60th Jubilee in 1897), shop for all sorts of weather-busting clothing at Bale Bazaar (also known as the Winter Market), and go strawberry picking at Adma Agro Farm. If you’re here for a couple of days and keen to make the most of the ravishing surrounds, take a hike to the surprisingly beautiful Moon Plains – an open area filled with walking trails, forests, mountain peaks and valleys that was cleaned up in 2010 and is now classified as an Agricultural and Environmental Tourism Zone. ED The 109-metre Ramboda Falls, 23km from Nuwara Eliya

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Hôtel Mil8: Nurturing the art of mountain living Hôtel MiL8 is a brand-new, chic alpine hotel, named after the altitude of the French ski resort of Avoriaz, set at 1,800m, making it the highest and most snow-sure village in the famed Portes du Soleil area. Fittingly positioned in the avant-garde resort created in 1966 as a fantasy-inspired getaway, Hôtel Mil8 welcomed guests for the winter 2019/20 ski season last December. With 42 spacious rooms and suites, Hôtel MiL8 offers an inviting, contemporary feel with shimmering fabrics and ultra-modern furnishings. Due to the hotel’s design, each room is individual, clad in light birch wood, reflecting the local, natural, alpine environment. Parisian interior designers Catherine and Jérôme Clermont from Atelier Obermant have mirrored the hotel’s architecture, which plays on the contrast between curves and right angles and the combination of materials such as warm wood, leather and wool, and raw, urban concrete and steel. The design of Hôtel Mil8 is inspired by the incredible surrounding architectural geometry. Renowned local architect Hervé Marullaz has created a butterfly-shaped structure that is at once in keeping and unique. Like a fan adorned with spacious balconies, the design allows guests stunning, panoramic views over the snow-topped roofs and peaks of this charming village resort. The hotel’s silvergrey larch facade blends with the traditional wooden tiles that characterise the facades and roofs of Avoriaz. The glass-fronted wellness centre is designed across four levels so that each space allows guests a breathtaking view of the resort and beyond and

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includes an infinity pool, sauna, gym and massage room. Hôtel MiL8 partners with organic skincare brand SNÖ Eternelle, which was created by Olympic silver medallist skier Raphaëlle Monod using exceptional Nordic active ingredients. The cosy lobby welcomes guests to curl up on a vast leather sofa or armchair by the central open fireplace to read or relax with an aperitif. Hôtel MiL8’s two restaurants include one at piste level for lunchtime skiers, while the ground floor space is a more intimate place for dinner, enhanced with wood-clad walls and discreet lighting. Chef creates authentic and inventive menus for on-trend cuisine that blends healthy eating with responsible local sourcing; the inviting bar serves delicious hot chocolate, blends of coffee and fine teas with cocktails and a selection of vintage wines and sharing snacks include tempura, cheese platters and classic panisse. Businesses can work in a stylish setting in the hotels 46-square-metre meeting space, with plenty of natural daylight and direct access to a private terrace, which is complemented by team building activities within the resort. Hôtel MiL8 partners with ESF ski school to organise ski lessons and ski hire for guests. The hotel is two hour’s drive from Geneva International Airport and 90 minutes from Geneva train station.

Rates at Hôtel MiL8 start from €250 per room, per night www.hotelmil8.com ED

The view from the Red Rocks amphitheatre, a short drive from Denver, is stunning

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Colorado’s top five stays Colorado’s breathtaking landscape boasts natural hot springs, 12 national parks and monuments and 58 mountain peaks that reach 14,000 feet, known as Fourteeners. The state also offers a thriving arts scene, rich cultural heritage and flavourful cuisine. There are plenty of places for travellers to rest their heads after exploring all that Colorado has to offer. Here are five of our favourites

The Crawford Hotel, Denver

Located above the iconic Denver Union Station, The Crawford Hotel is highly regarded as one of the most stylish hotels in Denver. The 112 guest rooms are designed to capture the glamour of 19th-century train travel combined with modern accents and amenities. Guests can enjoy in-room Nespresso machine, iPad with magazine and newspaper subscriptions, and local Tesla transportation. With 300 days of sunshine a year and bustling city streets framed by a Rocky Mountain backdrop, the mile-high city of Denver is the ultimate urban city break. Visitors can explore street art in the RiNo neighbourhood, go for dinner on historic Larimer Square or catch a show at the spectacular Red Rocks Amphitheatre, a short drive outside

of the city. Also not to be missed is the Capitol Building which has the official ‘mile-high’ step.

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The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs

The Broadmoor, on the outskirts of Colorado Springs, is the epitome of five-star luxury. Home to two championship golf courses, three swimming pools and 20 dining options – including Colorado’s only five-star restaurant – The Broadmoor has everything travellers need for an indulgent getaway.

Located south of Denver, Colorado Springs is renowned for its family attractions, outdoor adventures and friendly, welcoming locals. One of its highlights is Garden of the Gods at the base of Pikes Peak, a geological marvel with towering sandstone rock formations. For urbanites, Colorado Springs’ downtown offers bustling shops, restaurants and museums. Colorado Springs’ geological marvel, Garden of the Gods

C Lazy U dude ranch

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No visit to Colorado is complete without staying on a ranch. Dating back to 1919, C Lazy U offers high-class amenities and downhome experiences in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, with luxurious cabins, gourmet meals, daily trail rides and plenty of outdoor activities, all year round. Vacations adapt to the seasons. In the summer, you’ll spend your time riding horses among the wildflowers or wading in Willow Creek to catch your first fish. In the winter, snow blankets the mountains, creating some of the best slopes in the west for skiing and tubing. With on-site activities such as trap shooting, archery, mountain biking and plenty of indoor games, you’ll find yourself wishing you had just one more day at the ranch.

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Limelight Hotel, Snowmass

There are few ski resorts more iconic than Aspen Snowmass in Colorado. Many famous faces descend on the resort each winter to explore pristine runs and enjoy world-class après ski. Opened in 2018, the Limelight Hotel Snowmass is one of the most sought-after stays at the resort. Remaining consistent with the Limelight brand, amenities include après ski deals in the Lounge, regular live music and a ski concierge service, on top of sleek rooms that are perfect for unwinding after a day on the mountain. Aspen Snowmass consists of four incredible mountains – Snowmass, Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands and Buttermilk – each as incredible as the next. On top of world-class skiing and riding, visitors can enjoy snowmobiling, snowcat dinners, relaxing spas and an après scene that’s second to none.

The Ridgeline Hotel, Estes Park

The Ridgeline Hotel in downtown Estes Park offers guests easy access to Rocky Mountain National Park, where nature awaits. The hotel features a range of relaxing amenities, such as a heated indoor swimming pool, fitness centre and games room, while newly renovated rooms are home to comfortable beds, and all the amenities you would expect. Rocky Mountain National Park is located just a five-minute drive

from the Beaver Meadows entrance. Famous as the home of The Stanley Hotel – which inspired Stephen King to write his legendary horror novel, The Shining – Estes Park is also home to bars, restaurants and quaint shops, including two yearround Christmas stores. Rocky Mountain National Park is a spectacular winter playground, providing opportunities for snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and sledging. All the necessary equipment can be hired back in Estes Park. ED

OUT OF THIS WORLD UnIqUe ST HeLena An island paradise set at one of the most isolated land co-ordinates in the world, 15.9650 degrees south and 5.7089 degrees west. St Helena Island offers a most unique adventure. Surrounded by pristine oceans, diving here is second to none, with treasured marine experiences to last a lifetime. Visitors can be thrilled with pods of hundreds of playful dolphins and swim with shivers of inquisitive whale sharks. Rising from the sea, the island also boasts incredible topography that can best be experienced by hiking and walking the array of trails that meander around the island. Together with a fascinating history that includes Napoleon I. St Helena is an emerging destination in the travel arena and many opportunities are appearing following the opening of its award winning design airport in October 2017. With new and improved access St Helena is becoming globally connected and is striving to become a greenenvironmentally and blue – marine sustainable island destination with a vibrant tourism-driven economy. St Helena is now in a position to encourage investment as a new developing island-state and is on a mission to encourage investment in industries across the island. SA Airlink fly to St Helena on Saturday of each week from OR Tambo International Airport, Johannesburg, South Africa, and the six-hour flight starts from approximately £810 return. This festive season Airlink are offering an additional midweek connection to St Helena via South Africa’s Mother City, Cape Town between December 2019 and February 2020. A limited special excursion fare is also available for both Johannesburg and Cape Town routes for 10-day minimum stay between the travel period 14 January to 25 February 2020.

VISIT THe ST HeLena TOURISm WebSITe bIT.Ly/2RSqWq3

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Why the Abaton life is a bucket list experience Dreamy facilities and out-of-this-world service are at the core of Abaton and it’s the resort’s luxe life that everyone wants to experience. With the addition of the amazing Buddha-Bar Beach Crete, more first-class entertainment and brand new luxury facilities, Abaton is on an upward trend All the ingredients of a perfect holiday

One hundred and fifty two uniquely designed rooms, suites and villas are dotted along 360 metres of sparkling Cretan coastline. Special touches include an outdoor terrace or private pool for

every room and the Abaton signature whitewashed geometric interiors blend with luxury touches of gold and customised wooden furniture. One of the reasons why Abaton has been so successful is the five-star resort’s commitment to providing flawless guest service. As well as genuinely warm and welcoming hospitality, guests have a personal concierge who ensures every wish is granted. With a Turkish hammam, sauna, some of the world’s most powerful massage sequences and even a nail bar, Abaton’s spa has a lot to brag about. And in 2019 it added a brand new luxe cabin to its beauty kingdom. Abaton’s gastronomy has foodies visiting from all corners

of the world. Five restaurants offer an incredible selection of different international cuisine and local Greek specialities. Dishes are made with locally sourced products and seafood is caught fresh from the Aegean Sea. In addition to its already gourmand experience, last year saw Abaton introduce a new à la carte service and delicious buffet. There is no possibility of boredom at Abaton. Aside from relaxing by the grand centrepiece pool, a variety of activities, from outdoor movie nights to water sports and even a new private karaoke room create beautiful memories.

Cretan Evenings at Their Best Buddha-Bar Beach Crete started with a bang after opening in 2019. The famous beach club collection pulled out all the stops with two ritzy parties attended by famous Greek and international celebrities for its grand opening. Six beautiful sunset parties had guests living their best summer with renowned guest DJs during July and August. Live music continued to grace the shores of Abaton with a bi-weekly jazz trio at Wow Steak House and Buddha-Bar Beach. But Greece’s third Buddha-Bar is more than one of the country’s top beach clubs in the prime location that is Abaton. It’s a unique summer experience with a first-class restaurant and bar serving fusion Asian recipes, Buddha-Bar signature specialities and exceptional cocktails from expert Buddha-Bar mixologists. Evening entertainment took to new heights in the past year, with live piano three times a week at Ladies & Gentleman bar and traditional Cretan fire grill evenings every Tuesday at Elemes Cretan Cuisine Restaurant a real highlight. ED

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C U LT U R E W I S E

Greece business culture

In traditional Greek culture, honour, respect, status, hospitality and the ability to be flexible in the way one approaches daily life are all key cultural values. These values are still reflected in the Greek business environment. Exporters may need to think about how to adapt some of their working styles to better meet the needs of Greek customers, particularly when working with small and medium sized businesses. Business hierarchies in traditional family-owned firms tend to be vertical, with decision-making responsibilities assigned based on age, position, or family connections. It is important to identify exactly who in the businesses will be making the final decision as this may not be obvious at the first meeting. Negotiations may well be dominated by the decision-maker, but do not be surprised if he or she then needs to gain approval from the top-level person in the business. Negotiations are sometimes done slowly and may not always start during the first meeting, which can be about gauging whether you are someone the customer wants to work with. Always show the right level of respect to people at senior levels. Retaining a sense of honour, whether individual or familial, is also important in Greece, so avoid any direct criticism of people connected to the businesses you are working with. Be aware that any overt and direct questioning or challenging of a customer’s decisions can sometimes be seen as disrespectful. In newer businesses, particularly those in the technology field, hierarchies are much flatter, and communication is generally more direct. Personal relationships still loom large in Greek culture. Greeks often devote time and energy into building their business networks.

Relationship building activities can take place in social settings, such as restaurants or coffee shops, and you should look at opportunities for informal get-to-knoweach-other lunch as time invested, not wasted. These situations will often include business talk but will mostly not have any specific agenda laid down in advance. Be prepared to ask and answer personal questions, as these show interest in building an individual connection. Working hours vary depending on the time of year and many businesses take a three-hour break in the middle of the day during summer. Check with your customers what their opening hours are, as they may be different from your expectations. “On time” in Greece can mean starting a meeting up to 30-minutes late, but you need to ensure you arrive on time anyway. In Greek naming practices, people have a first name, followed by a patronymic name and family name. The surname is usually just the last one. As a rule of thumb use the surname plus Mr or Mrs in formal meetings, but take your cue from your partners, as the Greeks are often less formal in their interpersonal communication than other southern Europeans. Make sure you dress smartly though; formality is important in the way you look. During the summer it is acceptable for men to wear just shirt and trousers, without a jacket or a tie. ED

BOOK IN ADVANCE

www.asiagardens.es +34 (0)966 81 84 03

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Erosantorini

Set on a stunning 1.2-hectare estate perched on a 300-metre cliff overlooking Santorini’s iconic caldera, there are few destinations that compare to the breathtaking Erosantorini, to host enchanting celebrations, themed parties and fairy tale marriages, including pre and post wedding festivities Where privacy is paramount, as inspiring and unique as its location, Erosantorini embraces the exclusivity of its natural surroundings to create an oasis of tranquillity and absolute bliss, tailored specifically to you and your desires. Erosantorini’s magical setting is guaranteed to create memories that last a lifetime. With some of the planet’s most jaw-dropping views and a unique threetiered swimming pool that is one of the largest on the caldera, the lush landscaped grounds make the perfect backdrop for events of up to 800 cocktail guests or 350 seated guests, with room for dancing, live music and more. From storybook weddings to milestone anniversaries and birthdays, guests are invited to celebrate special occasions at Erosantorini, which honours the most important values – life, love, family and friends, ensuring a joyous and spectacular gathering that both the couple and guests will remember for a lifetime. Erosantorini’s charming on site chapel is a wonder unto itself, surrounded by vines and set on a picturesque hill. It is a perfect venue for romantic weddings or vow renewal ceremonies. From unparalleled service and culinary excellence, to the stunning surroundings of the incredible venue, any occasion will be an unforgettable one at Erosantorini. Using the freshest local ingredients to craft bespoke dining experiences for every event, the culinary team combines the best of authentic Greek and international

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flavours. Menus are personalised with options ranging from elegant canapés and formal banquets to al fresco buffets with exquisite set menus, live cooking stations or themed meals. Menus are created bespoke for every occasion, with dishes such as freshlycaught marinated sea bass, beef carpaccio with fresh vegetables and truffle oil, crayfish ravioli, baked figs with fresh cheese and aubergine caviar with yoghurt. Dishes are served alongside a menu of cocktails and premium wines selected by the house sommelier, many of which are from local vineyards. Each event is individually tailored to guests’ desires. These could take the form of anything from a simple Greek soiree to daring Hindu or kosher menus paired with everything from live bands and orchestras to synchronised swimming shows. Also available are extras such as marquees, beauty treatments, fireworks and more. Framing the breathtaking pool, the estate grounds are accented with lush flowers and fruit trees, among which celebrations can take place. Exploration of the Erosantorini grounds unveils a beautiful Spa Suite and wellness terrace, extensive wine cellar, pool-side cocktail bar, cliff-edge fire pit, open-air cinema under the stars and a serenity cave. ED

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Grecotel: Six of the best

Grecotel Hotels and Resorts delivers sophisticated lifestyle experiences in Greece’s most beautiful destinations. Here are six of the very best

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Cape Sounio, Athenian Riviera at Cape Sounio. Indulge in the hotel’s open-air spa set in 5,000 square metres of landscaped gardens and forest under the shadows of an ancient temple. Enjoy the resort’s five fine restaurants, each with its own international or Greek cuisine, and views of Sounio Bay and the famous Temple of Poseidon. Rates from €210 per room per night in a Superior Bungalow Mountain View including American breakfast capesounio.com

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Just 10 miles off Athens, where the city streets turn into picturesque palm-lined beaches and ocean-front promenades, lies Cape Sounio. Amphitheatrically arranged, terracotta-coloured bungalows blend into the idyllic landscape. Rooms begin with the Superior Bungalow, each of which has garden or partial sea views. Openplan design and large sliding glass doors that open on to the furnished terrace are a highlight. A world of experiences, from beach barbecues to Sounio National Park trekking, awaits

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Mykonos Blu, Mykonos Built above Mykonos’ famous Psarou Bay is Mykonos Blu, Grecotel’s most extravagant villa retreat. Luxury runs through every corner of the double Condé Nast Traveler Award-winner. Stylish Cycladic-style bungalows are clustered in small groups throughout the gardens or directly on the prime waterfront. Pamper yourself at the Elixir Wellness Centre, party on the beach and sail the Aegean Sea on a beautiful yacht. Delicious Aegean treats, European delights, impeccable service and sumptuous décor are the ingredients that make for perfect Mykonos dining. From €185 per room per night in an Island Bungalow including American breakfast mykonosblu.com an exclusive peninsula, Corfu Corfu Imperial, On Imperial has five beaches all to Corfu itself. Italian-style gardens and pastel-coloured villas above the water match the sunset colours, painting a beautiful picture. Spacious, luxurious and recently refreshed Sea View Guestrooms and Bungalows combine timeless elegance with an eclectic, modern flair. Corfu Imperial has its own promenade full of restaurants, services, entertainment and a piazza, certainly the place to be in the evenings. Fourteen seafront restaurants with spacious sea-view verandas

are a food-lovers dream come true. Enjoy luxury yachting tours, exclusive diving or make most of the two-storey Elixir Spa. The Corfu Imperial’s luxury pontoon is the perfect vessel for the discerning traveller. It’s available for short hire that will add fun and excitement to your holiday. Immerse yourself in a boating experience to remember. From €187 per room per night in a Corfu Bungalow Garden View including American breakfast corfuimperial.com

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Mandola Rosa, Peloponnese

schemes around the clock. Get the adrenaline pumping with Olympia Aqua Park and various water sports, then relax in 4,500 square metres of pure pleasure in the Elixir Thalassotherapy Center, inspired by ancient Olympia. From €260 per room per night in a Luxury Guestroom Sea View with Balcony including American breakfast rivieraolympia.com/ mandolarosa ∧

Mandola Rosa is set on a 500acre wooded estate along a twokilometre sandy beach facing the Ionian Islands in Kyllini, near the home of the Olympic Games. Feel right at home with plenty of spacious family accommodation with ultra-stylish furnishings and decoration. Luxury guest rooms have beautiful ocean views and 50 square metres indoor and eight square meters outdoor space. With the dine-around concept, you have a staggering 24 restaurants, bars and dining

Amirandes, Crete Amirandes is an ultra luxe, exclusive resort on the coast of east Crete inspired by the legendary Cretan hospitality, that sets new standards for exclusivity and privacy. Accommodation starts at the elegantly appointed Superior Rooms with wonderful sea or garden views. There are also Superior Family Guestrooms and Superior Guestrooms with a private pool and garden, warmly welcoming all types of visitor. Choose from seven exceptional restaurants that reflect the resort’s opulence and cosmopolitan vibe. Entertainment comes in all forms, from beach volleyball and sunrise yoga to live music nights at the hotel with a backdrop of the sparkling lagoon and sea. This unique hotel spa specialises in treatments using organic plants and extracts from Cretan and Ayurvedic therapies.

From €232 per room per night in a Superior Guest Room Garden View including American breakfast amirandes.com

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Caramel, Crete Designed like an island settlement on a prime beachfront estate, Caramel lies right in the heart of the Cretan Riviera, just a few minutes from the old-world charm of Rethymno. Caramel’s impressive suites, bungalows and villas are individually decorated and boast hand-carved furniture and designer fabrics. With views to the amazing illuminated pool, al fresco dining at Caramel embodies contemporary style, classical sophistication and inimitable refinements. Get active with various water sports, bike excursions or unwind with one of

the many treatments at the Caramel Wellness Centre. From €277 per room per night in a Junior Suite Sea View including American breakfast caramel.grecotel.com

A world for families Grecotel is known for its warm hospitality and amazing familyfriendly facilities and services. Each hotel has accommodation designed exclusively for families. Children are treated like celebrities and can join a huge programme of entertainment and fun. Grecoland kids, juniors and teens clubs offer arts and crafts, themed days, outdoor activities, sports and parties. All hotels have kids dining and most have a “Tasty Corner”, where kids can eat from a fresh buffet all day for free. For more information, visit: www.grecotel.com ED

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LONDON

The Trafalgar St James, Spring Gardens, SW1 by Ben Chambers

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The Trafalgar is an impressive art deco-styled five star hotel completely renovated in 2017 and located immediately off Trafalgar Square. The hotel has 131 bedrooms, including 15 suites and an elegant botanically styled bar – Rockwell – with appropriately-themed cocktails. There is a members’ club-styled living room open to all guests and the pièce de résistance is The Rooftop, where one can drink and dine against the backdrop of London’s iconic skyline, making a romantic setting for night-time cocktails. With highly attentive service and blankets available, it was perfect for the November evening on which I visited. A few hours later, they serve a truly excellent breakfast, allowing you to see London wake up and wish Admiral Nelson a good day as he watches over you. I opted for a Nelson Double Queen room and was greeted with the delightful smell of orange and bergamot as I panned around the elaborately designed suite. The room follows the hotel’s theme, boasting an art deco design with tactile furnishings, bold colours and fun ornamentation. The room was spacious, with two queen beds and an en-suite bathroom

featuring walk-in shower and tub. There was fast, complimentary wifi and all snacks and soft drinks from the mini bar were restocked gratis, as required. The Trafalgar, while elegant and on point with the art deco theme, also has some innovative touches such as a modern control tablet enabling you to do anything from ordering a late night snack (guilty) to adjusting the temperature and probably a lot more. The hotel is an ideal base for tourists as it is adjacent to Whitehall, The Mall, The Strand and Charing Cross Station, and a roughly 20-minute walk to Buckingham Palace. The location was something of a worry to me, however, as I expected to be disturbed by the sound of late night revellers outside. It was, however, probably one of the most peaceful nights sleep I’ve ever had. As a frequent London sleeper that says something. The Trafalgar is beautiful, honest, caring and fully deserving of its five star status. I look forward to my next stay. 2 Spring Gardens, London SW1A 2TS ED

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HaiDiLao Hotpot, Coventry Street, W1D

HaiDiLao Hot Pot opened its first restaurant in 1994, with the Chinese franchise coming to London in 2019. Toby Wilsdon went to see what all the fuss was about

The east Asian hotpot revolves around a steaming pot of broth at the centre of the table, which is either shared by all diners, or divided into up to four sections with different stocks that vary in base and spiciness. Chambers Media’s Toby Wilsdon and Ben Chambers dined at the restaurant in September 2019 and were impressed. Full disclosure, having

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Just off Piccadilly Circus, Chinese hotpot chain HaiDiLao opened its first UK restaurant in April 2019. For those unfamiliar with the concept, hotpot is a form of dining that can be compared to fondue, in its social aspect. It is considerably lower on the cholesterol count, however, even if one chooses sliced beef as one of the ingredients.

spent a number of years in Taiwan, Toby was familiar with the hotpot style of dining whereas Ben was not. It should also be said that Toby is vegetarian while Ben is a red-blooded carnivore (omnivore technically). In other words, it is a flexible format that will suit all dietary requirements. One of the special things about HaiDiLao is the service. Although there can be a wait, due to its popularity, this time can be absorbed at the complementary nail bar, for those who are so inclined. Once allotted a table, the highly attentive staff will give you a Haidilao apron and elasticated sleeves to cover your cuffs and lower arms. Like eating spaghetti, there can be some risk of spillage, so Haidilao has this covered. Having been seated and made initial decisions about whether to go for one, two or four soup bases at the centre of the table, one is led to a selfservice bar to mix one’s own dipping sauce. Liquid ingredients include soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil and a sesame paste. These are mixed with a broad range of ingredients such as, crushed peanuts, scallion, garlic, chilli, dried crushed beans, sesame seeds, chopped coriander and more. The aim is to achieve just the right mix of acid, oil, salt, heat and texture. You can spend your time mixing and tasting to get it just right. There are also recipes on the website. Or you can suck it and see. With your hotpot now between the diners, the next task is to choose your ingredients. This is done at the table, with orders taken by highly attentive servers tapping them into an iPad one by one. Be aware, with a plethora of meats, fish, vegetables, noodle and bean curd products on a list rather than an individual dish, there is a temptation to order more than you need. With a number of diners, it is best to choose a wide

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range of dishes that will offer everyone maximum variety. For meat lovers, several varieties of finely sliced beef, marinated pork and chicken are available. Seafood is another speciality, with crustaceans and filleted fish being on the menu. It is impossible to do justice to the range here, but details are on the website. As for plant-based dishes, served alongside meat or as a comprehensive meal, there a number of categories. Leaf vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage, pak choi and spinach make up one aspect of the meal. Bean curd-based ingredients include deep fried tofu chunks, bean curd strips (essentially chewy, broad tofu noodles) and bean curd sticks. Mushroom or fungi figure highly. The most familiar to most of our readers would

be shiitake mushrooms. Alongside these are wood ear fungus (flat, crisp, black and chewy), enoki (long, thin and white) and maitake (a strongly flavoured brown cluster) mushrooms, each with a different taste and texture. And then there’s the noodles. De rigeur are the crystal glass noodles, made from potato starch, but the best is yet to come. Order the ‘Haidilaostyled noodles’ and you will find a specialist noodle chef come to your table, take a strip of dough, stretch and dance it out into an ever-thinner strand. Think something between conducting a symphony, juggling sticks and spinning out a pizza. And then drop them directly into your hotpot. Another signature experience is the bian lian or face changing dance. Bian lian is a sub genre of Sichuan opera

involving moving dramatically to fast paced music, changing face masks with an almost instantaneous flourish. Alongside the noodle pulling, it makes quite a show. The joy of hotpot is its social and interactive element. There’s no danger of uncomfortable silences; you’re always busy, the food keeps coming and sharing means you always have something to talk about. And if you’re not satisfied by the time the dishes are bare, there’s always more, in both quantity and variety. If you like dining as an experience, enjoy a busy atmosphere and appreciate great service, Haidilao won’t disappoint. Unit 4/5, The Trocadero Centre, London W1D 7DH ED

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The thought of living in a tent in the middle of the African bush may, for some, conjure up images of cramped canvas accommodation, sleeping bags and basic shared facilities. In Botswana, however, nothing could be further from the truth. This beautiful (and safe) African country offers many small and intimate luxury

tented camps located in remote areas providing spectacular views, supercomfortable accommodation, and the very best wildlife experiences. For example, Mombo Camp (www.mombo.co.uk), located in the heart of the Okavango Delta and run by Wilderness Safaris, is widely recognised as one of the finest safari

camps in Africa and boasts a unique approach to luxury hospitality. Each of the twelve tents is shaded by huge indigenous trees with views over flood plains that teem with game throughout the year. Despite its luxury, Mombo manages not to spoil the sense of wilderness that makes safaris in Botswana so special. The

Wow moments Lynda Gordon talks luxury in the wilderness and recounts two stories from her book, Wow Moments – a Compilation of Tantalising Tales and Compelling Anecdotes from a Far-Flung Traveller

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wild dog story below, and several other adventures, occurred during my stay there in 2017. Technically, the accommodation in a tented camp consists of tents (unsurprisingly) as the walls and roof are made of thick canvas (the walls can be rolled up to allow light and air in). But in every other respect, the

tents’ comforts resemble those of a luxury country house hotel. Most are constructed on top of raised wooden platforms with generous veranda areas allowing their occupants to enjoy the view while sipping a late afternoon cocktail. Naturally, they are spacious and have full en-suite facilities, often with an extra shower on the veranda.

The interior furnishings will usually be sumptuous with thick-piled rugs, fluffy duvets and perhaps a fridge offering fine wines and beers. Freshly prepared meals are taken in a congenial central tented area with a fully-stocked bar, often with all drinks included in the price of your holiday. The service is, inevitably, attentive, friendly and efficient. Another reason to visit Botswana is that its government works hard to protect the environment and its wildlife. It controls and limits the number of visitors – by restricting the number of lodges and tented camps that can be built in each of the wildlife areas. As a result, the experience you get is much more intimate and private than can be the case elsewhere in Africa. The following short stories are two out of fifty light-hearted tales from around the world taken from my book, Wow Moments – a Compilation of Tantalising Tales and Compelling Anecdotes from a Far-Flung Traveller. All 50 stories are substantially true and the two below both took place during a luxury tented safari trip to Botswana.

Wild dogs and white wine

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I had been on safari trips before in which I’d felt I was very much an outsider looking in, cocooned away in comfortable lodges and enclosed touring minibuses. As exciting as the game viewing could be, the experience was like passing an acquaintance in the street – there was neither time nor opportunity to forge a relationship with or feel at one with the land, to appreciate its grandeur and wildness or to relax long enough to truly enjoy the wild animals and their endlessly fascinating behaviour. There was always a flurry of other vehicles around every time we stopped to

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watch the animals. If ever there was a moment when an emotional link might have been formed, then I was whisked away from it and moved quickly on to the next destination. My trip to Botswana was entirely different. We stayed in remote, unfenced camps and rarely saw another party. Every comfort was provided and safari drives in spacious, open vehicles were relaxed and unhurried – each time we encountered animals, we were able to spend as much time as we wanted in their company. During the late afternoon safari outing each day, we would stop, get out of the vehicle and indulge in

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“sundowners”, a delightful African custom. While watching the setting sun, usually in some picturesque spot, we would enjoy chilled drinks and a canapé or two. On this particular occasion, we had stopped in a forest clearing where the visibility on all sides was good and hence safe. Earlier, we had seen some wild dogs trotting off to hunt. I was standing a few feet away from the seven others in our group, sipping my glass of chilled chardonnay and enjoying the hush of the close of day. “Look,” exclaimed Lex, our guide/leader. A hundred or so metres away, a wild dog was trotting with intent through the forest. Furthermore, he was trotting directly towards me – closer and closer he advanced. “Don’t worry,” said Lex, “he won’t harm you.” I quivered, mesmerised and rooted to the spot, tightly gripping my precious glass of wine. Lex was right, of course. The beautiful wild dog had no interest in me. However, to everyone’s amusement, he trotted past me at a distance of just a few feet, ignoring someone’s suggestion that I might offer him a sip of my wine.

Cute, cuddly and curious: Botswana, at the edge of the Kalahari Desert Early mornings on the unpronounceable Makgadikgadi Pan

at the edge of the Kalahari Desert can be surprisingly cold during the dry season. Hastily downing a first coffee, I boarded our four-wheel-drive vehicle to venture into the desert. In this part of Botswana, several families of meerkats have been habituated – meaning that through the patient efforts of local people, they have become accustomed to human beings such that visitors can spend time in their company, up close and personal, without disturbing them. I was looking forward immensely to this experience and the very early start in the cold and dark was no deterrent. We drove silently for a short distance. Ahead of us, light had begun to flow into the horizon, heralding the dawn. “We’re here,” announced our driver, stating the obvious – as the vehicle had already stopped. I peered into the lunar landscape, wondering exactly where we were. Daylight arrived quickly as the sun burst over the horizon. We walked silently over the rough sandy ground for a few minutes before arriving at a place where nothing at all appeared to be going on. “This is the meerkats’ burrow,” said our guide, confidently pointing at a big hole in the ground just ahead. “We just need to wait for them to wake up.” Meerkats, like people, don’t much like cold mornings. Who can blame them? It was, however, becoming imperceptibly warmer as the sun began to climb the ink-blue sky. Suddenly, a movement. First one, then another, and moments later several meerkats emerged from the burrow. Each stood upright on its hind legs, shivering in the cool dawn and ignoring us completely. They stand upright like this to expose a bare patch of skin on their underbellies, which acts to absorb the rising sun’s heat. “They’re so tiny,” exclaimed one of my fellow travellers. Meerkats are only

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about 18 inches tall (plus a long tail) and weigh just a few pounds. “There are babies in the burrow,” said our guide, “but they haven’t been out yet as they’re only two and a half weeks old and still too small.” As the morning advanced, more meerkats appeared and began to scamper off to forage and rummage for scorpions, insects, millipedes and other delightful delicacies. My fellow travellers followed, quietly trailing the tiny creatures. One female meerkat, on babysitting duty, remained behind to stand sentry and protect the burrow’s precious contents. Sitting on the ground, I remained alone by the lair, although I didn’t

consciously know why. Shifting position slightly, I leaned forward and squinted into the earth. To my amazement, three tiny faces peeped out at me. I sat back, incredulous, hastily setting my camera at the ready. Almost immediately one, then two, then three baby meerkats emerged impertinently from the burrow, each hardly as big as my hand. They looked around timidly, seeing the outside world for the first time, crouching, cute, cuddly, and curious as my camera clicked furiously. The babysitter, however, was not impressed. Frowning down at the precocious babies, she decided they were far too young to be allowed out.

Picking up one of the pups by the scruff of the neck, she scuttled down into the burrow, reappearing moments later to rescue the other two, one at a time. They were gone. I sat back, exhilarated and emotional. What an absolute privilege it had been to have the chance to observe and experience such a thing at close quarters. An unforgettable wow moment! Wow Moments – a Compilation of Tantalising Tales and Compelling Anecdotes from a Far-Flung Traveller is available at www.amazon.com and www.waterstones.com ED

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Buen Camino

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We’d finished the first leg of our Camino at Belorado, before taking the bus to Burgos, the closest major city, two days’ walk away. This had been a minor disappointment since we’d been aiming to reach Burgos, but as we’d learned, the Camino is not about enforced targets; a pilgrim allows their Camino to come to them. So this time, having spent our first night in Spain in Burgos, we took the local bus back to Belorado, lunched in the cafe where we’d dined at the end of our last trip, and set on our way. We eased ourselves into the journey, following the roughly painted yellow arrows and scallop shells on the buildings. In the midwinter, it was cold in the shade; stepping into the sunlight it felt pleasantly warm,

however, and it wasn’t long before I removed my jacket. This stage of the Camino was much flatter than before and mostly on packed gravel, leading some pilgrims to skip straight to León. This didn’t seem to be in the true spirit of the Camino, but it was not for us to judge others’ means or motives. We arrived at Villambistia, our resting place for the night early, at around 3pm and checked in to our albergue. It had great reviews and it was not hard to see why. The locals in the bar welcomed us and the patron gave us snacks as he checked us in and stamped our Camino passports with the albergue’s mark. We ate around a long table with six others from the dorm, Korean, ∧

For more than one thousand years, devotees have been walking the Way of St James in pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. The Camino Frances or French Route is the most popular of several Ways, starting in St Jean Pied de Port close to Biarritz in the south of France. Toby Wilsdon writes about the second leg of his Camino, from Belorado to Villalcazar de Sirga

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Spanish and German (three of the most common nationalities along the way). We shared our tales of the road, motivations and backgrounds – for many, the Camino comes at a point of significant change and reassessment in their lives, perhaps a major career move or the end of a relationship. Though many are seeking to understand themselves better, it is hardly surprising that there is a bias towards those able to take time out to do this, since the full Camino takes around five weeks. It was 8 o’clock and still dark when we left, taking a full half-hour for

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the sun to rise over the rolling hills. We’d started a little later and walked a little slower than the others, so when we stopped at the first town for breakfast, they were just leaving. We were walking our Camino; they were walking theirs. This day held one of the longest stretches without passing a town – 12km so we made sure we were fed, watered and prepared before moving off. As we climbed to a plateau of around 1,000 metres, I removed both my jacket and my jumper, the warmth of the sun belying the icy ground in the shade. From here on we would

follow a broad track through the forest most of the way to San Juan de Ortega. Around midday we’d stopped at a clearing to take a breather when a couple of 4x4s pulling trailers full of dogs drew up, releasing them into the forest. We couldn’t make out what was going on; exercise, tracking, training or some other activity. Only later did we realise they were truffling. We reached our destination of Atapuerca at dusk and when we arrived at the albergue, found most of the crowd from the previous night. We ate together again and picked up a couple of other travellers as we continued to drink pilgrims’ red wine beyond our hearty meal. The journey into Burgos the following day was long and tiresome. Walking through suburban developments into a city is draining for several reasons. Hard paving, regular junctions and the lack of a horizon make it difficult to hit your stride; you are constantly anticipating your destination, hoping for an end to the traffic noise and close surroundings that are quite different from the expansive hills, plains and valleys you are used to. We were following an arterial road through a planned industrial sector made up of small factories, warehouses and outlet stores. It eventually came to an end and we made the final approach to the centre, still unsure of quite how far we had to go and whether it would be wise to stop at a cafe to boost our energy levels. Burgos is a beautiful city with an impressive cathedral. Our minds were on more practical matters, however. We’d checked in, needed to eat and didn’t want to wait until 8.30, the standard time for restaurants to start serving in Spain. Having tried several restaurants, there was only tapas to satisfy us at this hour, so we visited a

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ready. The place was silent; no cafes or bars and no old men, children or dogs playing in the street. Frustratingly, the cafes and albergues left their sandwich boards outside, teasing us to knock and try to enter. The next town was 9km further and at 4pm it was getting late. With this in mind, we exhausted every option before accepting that there was no alternative but to walk on for what would be another two hours. Stoically, we moved off. About two-thirds of the way to Castrojeriz and as we came into a darkening mist, I became aware of a walker a little way behind. Without forcing the matter, we moderated our pace, allowing him to catch up, either to exchange pleasantries or walk together, providing mutual support at this late stage of the day. It turned out he was as keen as us to for the company. He’d walked from Burgos that morning, close to 40km, and had had the same issue in Hornillos as us. Originally from Korea, he lived in Santiago and was on his fifth Camino.

His local knowledge was invaluable as we entered the ancient town that lay around a steep, castled hill. This time, there was some life on the streets and he asked in perfect Spanish for directions to any, probably the only, albergue available. When we found it, it was a twisted, hundreds-of-yearsold building with a chapel, hewn 30 steps down into the rock. As befitted such a building, it was freezing. We headed out with our friend to a rather warmer restaurant, where we ate well and got to know each other. We never found out his name – frankly, it wasn’t necessary – but since he owns the only Korean restaurant in Santiago, we’ll meet again. After a steep climb to 900 metres in the morning, there was a brief plateau before the way descended into a broad valley, crossing the Rio Pisuerga from the province of Burgos into Palencia. One step up the administrative scale, we found controversy. The Autonomous Community of Castile

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number of places before finishing with Burgos’ most famous chocolate and churros cafe – queuing inevitable. Leaving the city in the morning was much more pleasant – a university campus set in open parkland contrasting to the previous day’s industrial estate. The ground was frozen and icicles hung from taps, however. The walk was mostly uneventful and when we phoned ahead to the albergue in Rabe de las Calzades, we were told to ring back when we arrived. It turned out there was no competition for beds; the albergue was mostly closed in winter and the patron would open it just for us, returning to her home before coming back to cook our dinner at six. In the meantime, I wandered down to a bar to write my diary. After dinner in front of a roaring log fire, I decided one bottle of wine between us was not enough. I returned to the bar and explained, with some difficulty, that I wanted a bottle to take away, but needed it halfopened as I didn’t have a corkscrew at the albergue. I got there in the end, and for seven euros bought a very respectable bottle of wine. I wrote until ten, when, unconcerned with the arbitrary passage of the new year, I went to bed. The first day of the year brought another moderately high but steep climb, to 1,000 metres. Again, we were walking the Meseta, Spain’s high, open plains that some on the Camino seek to avoid altogether. It’s true that in places they provide little cover and require long stretches between towns or even water points. Some may find this landscape mundane. Others find it meditative, however. Our first realistic place to stay would be Hornillos del Camino after 18km, and by the time we approached from the plateau, we were more than

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and León, including Palencia, Burgos and other provinces, had been created in 1983, however, there were those in León who felt that their differing character and socioeconomic status (rich and poor) meant they should not be merged. To this end, a determined local had been spraying white paint over “Castilla y” from the regular signs bearing the name of the autonomous community. We reached our destination in Boadilla del Camino at a reasonable hour and checked in to a large, modern albergue that was as empty as most of those we had encountered. We were signed in by a mostly silent patron who took our credentials, informed us that dinner was at six and took our orders – pasta or pizza – before pointing us upstairs. I thought little of it at the time and ordered my belongings, washed and wrote my diary. My wife had ordered pasta while I’d chosen the pizza, thinking it a safer bet. Spanish pasta was sometimes somewhat soggy. When it came to it, we were both in the same boat. My pizza was baked solid and blackened at the crust, whereas my wife’s pasta was penne floating in water with perhaps a teaspoon of tomato puree for flavour. I’d been forgiving about the lack of conviviality but burning a single pizza when there were no other customers around seemed downright rude. At 7pm I wasn’t going to go to bed, so returned to the bar, where I bought a beer and set to work on my diary. When it came to my second beer, I only had a fifty euro note and when this was spurned I went and got change from upstairs. Feeling he didn’t really want me to be there, I wasn’t going to let him “win” for the sake of not having any smaller notes. Remarkably, both of my tinned beers overflowed, despite the fact that I opened the second very carefully at

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the bar, for fear of him suggesting I was incapable of safely discharging a can. How he managed to draw two shaken beers from the fridge, I don’t know. I went upstairs feeling I’d kept him up long enough and that he’d go to bed, but was surprised and slightly disappointed when the bar sounded very lively at around 10pm. I wished I’d stayed. In retrospect, having read the online reviews, this Basil Fawlty-esque behaviour should have come as no surprise to me. Almost immediately we left in the morning, we joined the Canal de Castilla for 6km – naturally flat and mostly straight. Aside from a historic flight of locks dropping 14 metres over five levels at Frómista, there was not a lot to see that day. Almost the entire route followed hard packed paths alongside major roads, often in cuttings or along embankments.

At five hours and 19km, it was an average length day, but we were more than glad when we arrived at the small town of Villalcázar de Sirga, where we had planned to take our rest day. After checking into our hotel, we went in search of Meson de Villasirga, a traditional restaurant with rave reviews. It was closed for winter, however, and after looking for El Meson de Los Templarios, the other place serving quality local cuisine that we’d heard about, with the same result, returned to our hotel to eat in the bar downstairs. We spent our day in Villalcázar de Sirga looking after ourselves and our equipment, resting and in my case, enjoying a few beers as I wrote up my diary in the bar. It was a well needed break, setting us up nicely for the next stretch to León. Watch this space. To be continued ED

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Inventory • Osprey Kestrel 48: Men’s 48-litre multi-day trekking backpack • Osprey Hydraulics: 2-litre reservoir designed for integration with Osprey packs

I chose Osprey’s Kestrel 48 for the second leg of my Camino as a medium-sized pack with enough space for the clothes and equipment I required, without offering me the luxury of carrying too much. It was from a respected brand that I have used before and came with a fully compatible two-litre reservoir, integrated rain cover and plenty of pocket space and accessibility. Alongside the backpack, I tested the Osprey Hydraulics two-litre reservoir. On receiving the package and opening the box, I was eager to set things up, impatiently rushing to put things together. It did take a little figuring out how to open the brand new reservoir – the reassuringly well-made seal at the top of the water carrier was initially quite tight, leaving me unsure whether I would end up tearing the equipment apart before even setting off. Delicate exploration soon revealed how the sac opened, however. It was a similar story fitting the reservoir to the bag – full disclosure, I had not used a reservoir before, previously relying on bottles carried on the side of my old pack. Just below the straps was an opening firmly held

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together by a thick strip of Velcro. Unsure whether it was structural or practical, I eased it open and found a reservoir-shaped sleeve within. Nevertheless, the snug fit of the components, which make the bag safer and more comfortable on the trail, made it a little harder to slot the water carrier in, particularly when it is full and one wants to avoid damaging one’s equipment and getting wet in the process. To this end, one side of the reservoir is semi-rigid, to allow you to slot it in more easily. I was impressed with how much ventilation there was, even with two litres of water between me and the bag. All this predeparture difficulty was really a matter of me not knowing how hard I could push the materials, having been guilty of being heavy handed with more delicate products in the past. The Kestrel is amply adjustable, however, to a newbie such as myself, some guidance or instructions with the packaging would have helped me to get the very best from the pack from the word go. A little research online educated me on how to systematically adjust each of the Kestrel’s straps for a truly personalised fit, with

the weight supported in all the right places distributed around my body. On the road, I found the side entry zipper useful for accessing belongings towards the bottom of the bag and the three other pockets – two in the lid, one on the side – convenient for snacks and other odds and ends required during the day. I’m glad to say I did not have occasion to test the rain cover that is integrated into the base of the pack. For most of my journey, I thought little about the bag carrying my world on my back, which is of course, the sign of a job well done. A welldesigned backpack should be, if not entirely imperceptible then at least easily forgotten about. The same goes for the reservoir – the tube was there on my shoulder, I could access it regularly without thinking about it and as is best, drink little and often throughout the day. Having used Osprey products before, I feel confident that this one has may pilgrimages left in it still to come, which is handy, since there are at least 15 different Caminos on the Iberian peninsula alone. ED

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Specifications Osprey Kestrel 48: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Weight: 1.6 kg Dimensions (cm): 75L / 34W / 32D Fabric: 210D x 630D Nylon Dobby Internal hydration sleeve Stow-on-the-Go™ trekking pole attachment Internal top load compression strap 15mm side compression straps Single vertical zippered side access point Dual mesh side pockets Internal and external zip pockets in lid Twin zippered hip belt pockets Zipped side pocket and front shove-it pocket Fully adjustable AirScape™ backpanel with foam ridges for comfort and fit Integrated and detachable raincover Sleeping bag base compartment with internal divider Removable sleeping pad straps

Osprey Hydraulics™ 2L Reservoir: • • • • • • • •

Weight: 0.2 kg Dimensions (cm): 35L / 15W / 6D Material: tough, durable TPU – BPA Free Removable and replaceable hose and bite valve for fast, smooth water delivery Litre markings printed on reservoir body Slide-seal™ top opening for easy filling and cleaning Pour shield extends the collar for easy filling Carry handle allows easy reservoir management and filling

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2001 a bike odyssey:

Irkutsk to Hong Kong In June 2001, Toby Wilsdon set out on a cycle odyssey, crossing Europe, Russia and China to the farthest point then possible to ride to on the Eurasian continent, Singapore. We pick up his journey as he prepares for the toughest part of the journey, Outer Mongolia, which will take him and his fellow travellers to the emergent power, China

aving arrived in Irkutsk with Rory, the next stage of the journey would be a precursor to the most challenging step yet – crossing Mongolia via the fearsome Gobi Desert. For now, however, our minds were on reuniting with Andy and Scott and making contact with the British Council, who we’d been corresponding with. Rory and I found the British Council in the centre of town and introduced ourselves to Anatoly and Nastya, who ran the place. We were just getting to know them when in walked Andy and Scott. Instantly, we began reacquainting ourselves and it was as if we were the only ones in the room. Anatoly had arranged a press conference, but we had no idea of the scale of his plans. We walked into the room and were faced with an array of TV and print journalists, including from local editions of such esteemed

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organs as Isvestya and Pravda. After introducing ourselves and our trip, bouncing off each other with great energy and enthusiasm, we fielded The Usual Questions – “What inspired you to do this?” “What do you do when you’re not cycling around the world?” “Isn’t it dangerous?” We were then driven by Land Cruiser to the headquarters of BP’s Siberian operation for corporate hospitality and then on to the local university where we spoke to approximately 100 language students, at least 10 of whom were male. “We hear none of you are married,” one of the girls spoke for the group. “Is this true?” “Yes,” we replied. A chorus of giggles went around the room. “What about girlfriends?” “No,” we answered. There was more murmuring. “We saw you on TV. It’s very dangerous; we think you must be very brave.”

Again, straight-faced we said,“No, we’re just four normal guys following a dream.” “Yes, but to us you are heroes!” All the attention in Irkutsk had proved to be a lot of fun, but it was time to move on. We’d been in Russia for nearly two months and fallen in love with the place and its people. Halfway to Singapore and moving from the European civilisation to that of east Asia, it was a time for reflection and for the first time, we were able to comprehend a life after our odyssey and in philosophical moments, wonder how it might affect the rest of our lives. A day out of Irkutsk, we camped on the shore of the mighty Lake Baikal. The oldest lake in the world, Baikal contains 20 per cent of the globe’s fresh water. It is fifty miles across, four hundred long and a mile deep in places. Isolated from the outside world, it contains around 1,800 endemic plant and animal species. We camped in a magical spot, with the equally iconic Trans Siberian Railway standing between us and the lake. After dipping our toes in the

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provisions for the Gobi and let our respective embassies know we would be crossing the desert (just in case). Our trip to the British Embassy was fruitful. As we were about to leave, the ambassador, Kay Coombs came down the stairs and invited us to the regular Friday night gathering at The Steppe Inn – a glorified shed in the embassy compound where the ambassador and her deputy pulled pints for ex pats and dignitaries on Friday nights. Despite the fact that it had been weighing on our minds, we still did

not quite know what to expect of the Gobi. We knew there would be no rolling sand dunes, and obviously, that it would be even colder than we were experiencing already. For the first day out of the capital, the roads were reasonable, hard packed, mostly level tracks. The sparse ground they merged into however was awash with thorns, a regular problem for cyclists, even with high quality touring tyres. Before long, however, the road began to degrade to the point where

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water in accordance with local lore, we laid coins on the track as every schoolboy knows you should (not) do. Of the many we laid, we found only a handful, and kept them as souvenirs. With the temperature heading subzero we built a fire, eating, talking and writing our diaries until by the time we went to bed, it was minus six. Having gained special permission from the president of the Russian Federal Republic of Buryatia, we would cross into Mongolia – the most exoticsounding country yet – at Kyachta. Before that, we had one last vodka session in the border town on our final night in Mother Russia. In the local vodka shop, we met Dr G Tsogt, deputy director of the Mongolian Alt Corporation (gold mining). We returned to our hotel and not long after, he turned up with another large bottle of vodka. He was keen to practise his English, we were keen to drink vodka and reminisce about the good times we’d had in Russia. That was the deal. The road to Mongolia’s capital, Ulaanbaatar was a perfectly smooth example of American dollar diplomacy. After the mixed quality of Russian roads, it came as welcome relief. En route to the capital we camped on a salt lake a hundred metres or so from a local ger or yurt. We decided to leave it to the morning before attempting contact. We approached the ger for water in the morning and the patriarch invited us in. It was beautifully warm inside. The family served us Mongolian tea – green tea made with milk and salt. The meat eaters were also served sheep’s testicles. More conventionally, we were also treated to a ride on their camels before exchanging keepsakes and thanking them for their hospitality. We were in Ulaanbaatar mostly to get our Chinese visas, buy any final

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with hardened aircraft hangers and a deserted accommodation block for the hundreds of servicemen and their families that must have been based there. In warmer climes we would have been all over the corridors and apartments within. For now, in the daytime warmth of minus five, we perched by an abandoned Mig, ate our lunch, and were on our way. After 10 days in the desert we finally approached the border town of

Zamiin Uud. The Mongolian side was a typical small, dusty Mongolian town with little going on beyond a few animals passing the time of day in the street. Once we’d crossed the frontier it was a different matter, however. Erenhot was a rapidly developing Chinese town with beautifully smooth tarmac (you notice these things), markets with exotic street food – we’d been subsisting on rice, noodles, cheese and not a lot else for 10 days.

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it was no longer a single path but a network of criss-crossing channels, akin to a river delta system. Trucks heading for China would take whatever path was smoothest at a given time, the movement of the sand meaning the surface was corrugated to varying degrees in the direction of travel, across it, or even both. When the ruts became deeper, they filled with sand, forcing us to power our way through on our heavy bikes and when a particular furrow was impassable, we would have to ride up and over into the next, hopefully without losing traction or wiping out in the process. Riding this 10-lane highway of sand, we would spread out, calling to each other if we found a good patch of road, though more often than not conditions would change by the time we joined them. It was proper cold by now. I was wearing two pairs of socks, long johns, shorts and trousers, two t-shirts and long-sleeved tops and my jacket. Plus double gloves, hat and face covering. We did not stop without reason and when we did, we didn’t hang around. Pitching and striking camp was painful – driving cold aluminium pegs into the hard ground and retrieving them in the morning, fiddly jobs that were hard or impossible wearing gloves – as if they would have made much difference. The Gobi was beautiful in its sparsity, however, and if you could manage to stay out in the cold for a while, the stars viewed through the clean, dry air hundreds of miles from significant light pollution were phenomenal. Lie on your back and let them come to you – and return to your tent soon after. At its coldest, we reckoned the nights were minus 15. Out of nowhere, we came across an abandoned Soviet air base, complete

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Particularly welcome were strawberries dipped in molten sugar like toffee apples – sugar and vitamins served together on a stick. We were still in the Gobi or Inner Mongolia, however, and did not appreciate how far this would go continue. Constantly waiting for the 40km downhill we’d be told about, it would be another 350km until we left the plateau; 650 to Beijing. As we passed through the mountains north of Beijing, we expected to cross the Great Wall, however, all we saw on the horizon was hilltop fortresses, discovering that the landmark is not a single contiguous wall but in places merely a line of watchtowers. Eventually, we came to Beijing and a hostel with a warm bed, bar, other foreigners and plentiful, varied food cooked to order in the hutongs nearby. One night in the bar in our hostel we met Nick, a French-Canadian travelling China. After a fair few beers he piped up, “I’m travelling

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by train, you guys are on bikes and you’re going to see far more than me. Can I join you?” His logic was impeccable so he went and bought a bike and the other kit he would need, and along with another French-Canadian, Stéphane, who was always due to join us in Beijing, he was in. Now we were six. After doing the tourist thing visiting Mao’s mausoleum, the Great Wall, Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, we were off. The days south of Beijing were characterised by a collective malaise combined with sullen, grey skies. We joked that there was a furnace somewhere being stoked with fuel to prevent the American satellites seeing in. The roads ranged from muddy, rutted tracks to brand new highways constructed to service the emergent Chinese economy. A couple of days in, Stéphane started talking to a local girl in a cafe as we were eating dinner. Before long, she’d invited us to stay at her parents’

home, a traditional courtyard house nearby. Stéphane had one thing on his mind and when she said her parents were away, he was confident of his prospects. To see his face drop when we heard the tuk-tuk-tuk of their tractor returning was hilarious. As we pitched our tents in the centre of the courtyard, the girl’s mother cooked up a feast. We decamped to a local shop to provide the beers, while the father brought out his best moonshine. After a couple of shots, we felt it best to stick to the beers and we left the next morning, our heads and stomachs somewhat the worse for wear and Stéphane’s baser appetites certainly unsatisfied. The route 107 had brought us all the way from Beijing and we continued to follow it to Zhengzhou, where we caught our breath for a couple of days. The incessant noise and pollution of what was then a major route south were getting to us, so we decided to take the road less travelled to Wuhan. As we took the

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turned up and offered to make us “more comfortable”. Our hotel was perfectly decent as far as we were concerned and we had no idea what the police had in mind. They weren’t taking no for an answer so we repacked our bags and followed them to a hotel adjacent to the police station, where they placed two officers on watch overnight. They were probably more nervous that anything untoward would happen on their watch than anything more sinister. Speaking to the school the next day was a joy, as ever. Standing below a portrait depicting Mao’s benevolent gaze, we answered The Usual Questions, this time including one with a slightly different cultural twist. “How did you get your parents’ permission to travel?” Respect for elders is paramount in Confucian society. After lunch with the teachers, still watched by the police, we said our goodbyes, confident that we and they would remember the day for the rest of our lives.

Our next major destination was Wuhan on the Yangtze river, which bisects China. On the same latitude as Texas, we were still cold and wet, which, having dreamed of warmer climes all the way across Mongolia, felt like a cruel joke. We took a couple of days in the city to regroup, restock and fully dry out our equipment. Amazingly in a country of this size, we ran into a couple of cyclists we’d met in Ulaanbaatar and Beijing. South of Wuhan was more like the stereotypical China we’d imagined. It rained for 10 days, shrouding the terraced mountainsides in mist. The fauna was lush and green and we began to see bamboo, banana and orange trees for the first time. After four days in the rain, we were ready to dry out when we reached the small town of Pingjiang. A guy on a motorbike lead us to a hotel before revealing that his brother worked for Hunan TV and would love to get a story on us. He turned up with his film crew to interview us at 10pm ∧

more rural way, we attracted ever more attention, particularly as we ate our meals at local eateries. People were utterly unembarrassed to stand and stare in crowds, so we eventually got an English-speaking local to write us a sign saying: “Feeding time at the zoo, please stand back at least three metres, view charge five yuan.” It was good natured, but they got the message. As we left a small town one day, and without noticing at first, we began to gain an entourage. Before long, we were being followed by more than thirty locals of all ages on bikes. We felt like the Pied Piper of Hamelin. Our superstar status felt quite touching at times. As we ate dinner one evening, we were surrounded by scores of children. Their English teacher soon turned up and explained that he was the only one in the village who had ever met a westerner. He invited us to speak to his school the next day and found us a decent hotel to stay in. It wasn’t good enough for the People’s Police, however. They soon

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and returned in the morning to capture us riding off. This was the beginning of a remarkable chain of events. After a day riding through misty mountain passes, we were having trouble finding anywhere to camp. A steep road with dense tropical jungle above and below does not offer much opportunity. After a while a car emerged out of the mist ahead and drew up alongside us. They were from Liuyang TV and had been alerted to our presence. We eventually found a spot just big enough for six tents and they asked us if there was anything they could get us. Simple. “Beer and fireworks, please.” They soon returned with ample beer and some very large fireworks. As we launched phosphorescent red, blue and green projectiles into the jungle, it was lit up like a Vietnam War movie. The TV crew interviewed us, gave us their phone number and asked us to contact them the next day. We never expected to do so. As we were passing through Liuyang the next afternoon, Scott’s derailleur snapped, leaving us little

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option but to stay in the town. We phoned the TV crew in the hopes that they could help us find a cheap hotel. One of the journalists insisted he was going to pay, however, and led us through the alleys to a large hotel. It was no ordinary hotel. We were staying courtesy of The People’s Liberation Army in fully heated en-suite rooms with all mod cons. We were stunned, despite all the remarkable things that had happened so far. That evening, the journalist took us to a tea house for one of the most memorable experiences of the trip. We were treated to a gong fu tea ceremony, seated around a tree rootcarved table, fully plumbed-in on several levels. After numerous varieties of tea, the proprietor gave us samples of his favourite oolong tea. Liuyang is the birthplace of fireworks and has between six and nine hundred factories. We’d already passed the Santa Fireworks Co, The Fireworks Exhibition Centre and more on the way in. Eventually, Rory could contain himself no more and we

walked up to the Forward Firework Company and asked to be shown around. The owner, Harry Liu, was delighted and we looked on in wonder as workers put together pyrotechnics to be set off all around the world. Now it was Harry’s turn to insist on putting us up, this time in an international business hotel. After treating us to the full Chinese banquet, rice wine and beers, it was time to drive to a night club in Changsha – far enough away to chug our way through a crate of beers Harry had bought. On arrival we were presented with a selection of girls and asked to select one each. Unsure what this meant, we were reassured that they were merely dancers to join us in our private bar. Eventually, after three nights, we escaped the gravitational pull of Liuyang, chasing a target of Christmas in Hong Kong, 900 mountainous kilometres away, and hoping the British colonial legacy would present at least a taster of home. To be continued ED

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