A Note To The Novices… keep a note card handy to log your feedback on wines tried so you can reference it when venturing your next new purchase; or to be sure you can recall your new favorite.
The “Big
Six” Picks
Although we love rosés, too, let’s keep it simple by focusing on what’s known as “The Big Six.” For whites, this includes Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, in the order of lightest to heaviest. For reds, this includes Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, also in the ascending weight order. For food pairings, the rule of thumb is to match the weight of the wine with the food. To simplify, Zraly advises to think of these wines in terms of milk textures. For example, Riesling and Pinot Noir can be considered “skim milk,” Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot would be “whole milk” and Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are likened to “heavy cream.” Simply match them with foods that can stand up to the wine’s body and weight. To cut through some of the legwork, wine experts Zraly and Haskel have recommended excellent wines in each varietal that retail for under $20 a bottle, along with suggested food pairings. This should set an easy precedent for you to follow when making your own wine purchases.
Wine expert and consultant Brad Haskel, who has breathed muchneeded life into wine lists and instilled programs for top-rated restaurants on Long Island, also shares this philosophy. “Look for places that are not the über-hot region of the moment with a great wine making reputation. I pay a bit more attention to those because their prices soften a little bit, so you can find something excellent. For example, for a great French wine, look outside Bordeaux and Burgundy and you’re likely to find great wine at a much better deal.”
WHITES
Riesling Zraly’s Pick: Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2007 (Finger Lakes, NY) – $18
with a light cream sauce, or even with clams and oysters. It’s also great as an apéritif.
This wine presents a green gold hue, crisp acidity, a pronounced mineral character and layers of mango, citrus and pear blossoms in the nose.
Haskel’s Pick: Selbach Fish Label Riesling 2007 (Mosel, Germany) – $14
Food pairing: Overall, a Riesling would get lost under swordfish or tuna. Instead, so go with a lighter fish like Dover sole or flounder, perhaps
A racy, nervy Riesling at a very affordable price. Food pairing: This is tremendously versatile wine that is as at home with take out Chinese food, as it is with delicate fish.
Sauvignon Blanc Zraly’s Pick: Frog’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (Napa Valley, CA) – $17 Crisp and taut on the palate, this wine’s bright acid makes it bracing and refreshing – a wine of engaging distinctiveness, much like the appellation from which it originates. It’s meant to be consumed young. Food Pairing: As this wine has more body, you could put it with a red snapper or any other medium-bodied fish such as bass, shrimp or scallops.
Haskel’s Pick: Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (Loire Valley) – $13
And for Pinot Grigio lovers…Try this recession
This wine, fermented in stainless steel tanks, is crisp and lively and can rightfully be referred to as a “baby Sancerre.”
proofpick by proprietor Matt Schweiger from East Hills Wine Market:
Food Pairing: Raw oysters and clams are a classic pairing for this wine. The lemony crispness of the wine can almost take the place of squeezing a lemon on the oysters and clams.
Il Conte Pinot Grigio 2006 (Veneto, Italy) – $11
Chardonnay Zraly’s Pick: Chateau St. Jean 2006-2007 (Sonoma, CA) – $13 This wine is more towards the medium style and is clean and crisp with a “kiss” of oak. Food Pairing: This Chardonnay is very much like a Pinot Noir – almost like a white wine masking as a red. Ideally, pair it with salmon, tuna, swordfish, lobster, or chicken. Haskel’s Pick: Darby & Joan Chardonnay 2008 (Southeast Australia) – $11
While there are elements of tropical fruit, oak, and lemon, no one element dominates, and the balance of the wine is its greatest asset. Food Pairing: A very classic pairing would be grilled wild Alaskan salmon. Salmon is a naturally fatty fish that matches up very well with the weight of this New World Chardonnay. Sautéed shrimp would also pair beautifully. The shrimp have an inherent sweetness that matches to the tropical fruit element of the wine.
This is a dry white wine exhibiting pale straw yellow color. The clean, intense aroma and the dry flavor with pleasant citrine finish make this Pinot Grigio a wine of character and versatility. It’s excellent as an apéritif and is the ideal accompaniment to seafood salads, fish-and shellfish-based pasta and rice courses. Also perfect with white meats, boiled or grilled fish and with soufflé.
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