EliteGen《星尚》 2016 VANCOUVER April Luxury Magazine (Chinese/English)

Page 1

16

A publication by Sing Tao Media Group April

Vancouver

April 2016 Vol. 16

米蘭秋冬時裝周 2016 Milan

autumn-Winter Fashion Week

IWC

TWINS : TIME TOGETHER

《小王子》 遺愛人間

Heart-warming legacy of The little Prince

名錶世代 WaTcH neWs

Piaget, Panerai, Jaquet Droz, chopard, Vacheron constantin, Harry Winston

EliteGen.singtao.ca

一起走過的日子 Twins: Time together

CAN$4.99






masthead

merry

christmas Read Online: EliteGen.singtao.ca iOS App: “EliteGen” in App Store

編輯部 editorial

編輯主任 Editors

胡君偉 Kelvin Wu 葉子青 Leslie Yip

加西版 Can West

張萬青 Katherine Cheung

編審 Copy Editor

Ross Hopkins

助理編輯 Assistant Editor 參與 Contributors

吳皓沂 Crystal Ng, 易珮華 Clarice Yik Grace Chan, Iris Chui, Lorne Drury,

Kenson Ho, Zoe Mak, Monessa Ng,

Renée S. Suen, Mel Tobias, Shuk Wa Tsang,

Livian Wu, Miranda Yiu

美術部 art

星島美術部

廣告及市場部 sales & marketing 營業總監 Director

出版 Publishing

黎家盛 Andrew Lai

Sing Tao Daily Limited

編輯部 Editorial Hotline editorial@singtao.ca / 604-321-1111 Address : 8508 Ash Street, Vancouver, BC Canada V6P 3M2 營業部 Advertising Hotline advertising@singtao.ca / 604-321-1111 發行部 Circulation Hotline circulation.van@singtao.ca / 604-321-5211


SISLEY 法國希思黎

SISLEŸA L’INTÉGRAL COMPLETE ANTI-AGING SKINCARE 全面抗老煥顏面霜

Sisleÿa L’Intégral 抗老煥顏面霜對抗肌膚老化的三種顯著因素— 遺傳、環境污染和壓力—為您提供一個真正全面的抗衰老良方。

歡迎蒞臨 Sisley 希思黎美容專櫃,可獲免費肌膚護理諮詢服務一次 及專有樣品小包一份。獨家@Holts.

H O LT R E N F R E W. C O M


coNteNts apr

16

Watch story

28

《小王子》遺愛人間 IWC Heart-WarmIng legaCy of tHe lIttle PrInCe

cover story

FashioN headliNe

一起走過的日子

米蘭秋冬時裝周

20

46

tWins tiMe together

2016 mIlan autumnWInter fasHIon Week

Watch NeWs

36 錶壇如靈猴 Year of MonkeY 2016

shoWcase

66 艷光四射 transMission of Light

JeWelry

42 光影藝術 Piaget Light art

ruNWay

72 街頭混戰 Ports 1961 street tangLeD Warfare

44 館藏珍品展覽 Boucheron: DisPLaY of a treasureD coLLection

MeN’s Picks

74 白恤衫變奏 transforMation of the White Dress shirt

FashioN NeWs

64 running ZeBra

Beauty

76 天然惜膚 naturaL skin



coNteNts apr

16

liviNg

82

後園的托斯卡尼悠閒風情

a PIeCe of tusCany In tHe BaCkyard

restauraNt

elite car

88

106

大熱日系 -- 秘魯美食

性能至上

anCora Waterfront dInIng and PatIo West Coast CuIsIne WItH PeruvIanJaPanese flavours

eveNt

84 充滿愛心的慈善家 aLice chung LaDY With a PhiLanthroPic heart

taste

92 多倫多加勒比美食巡禮 toronto’s cariBBean retreat

WiNe Not

96 香檳,講年份 the iMPortance of “Year” in chaMPagnes

elite liFe

98

上山下海 玩轉荷屬西印度沙巴島 saBa, Dutch West inDies sMaLL isLanD, Big fun

2016 PorsCHe Cayman gt4 PerformanCe Is tHe name of tHe game

Just For FuN

110

與大自然接軌 享受私家海上假期 cast off anD Live the high Life suPerior PriviLeges

hi-tech

114

水中貴族 Leica X-u unDerWater noBiLitY

116

下水也不怕 saMsung gaLaXY s7 & s7 eDge

部份內容由新傳媒集團有限公司提供 All prices are in CAD unless otherwise specified. 除特別標明外,所有價錢以加幣計算。



Dress Code text | 蔡安儀

Celia Wong 著名形象設計師黃欐堯Celia,曾任陳慧琳、謝安琪、孫耀威、江若琳等藝人的形象設計,亦有參與唱片封套形象設計及演唱會形象指導。 早年出書教人襯衫扮靚,近年主力負責個人形象和美容指導,還開設個人網誌celiawong.com,分享服裝潮流及扮靚心得。 Famous designer Celia Wong has been image designer for many celebrities, including Kelly Chan, Kay Tse, Eric Suen and Elanne Kang, and has also been a designer of many album covers and image director of numerous concerts. Wong has written books offering tips about clothing and beauty. In recent years, she has focused on coaching individual clients on image and beauty, and even started her own blog (celiawong.com) to share fashion trends and beauty tips.

Dizzying Flowers

花多 眼亂

鞏俐

12

Alluring Curves

誘人 葫蘆

李玟

Country MoM

土味 大媽

劉心悠

Gong Li

Coco Lee

Annie Liu

身穿Lanvin花卉刺繡傘裙的鞏俐,配埋一身Piaget Rose鑽飾,很有巨星氣派,不過造型始終過於密 實,而且網狀上衣及花花長裙,有點花多眼亂,反 而穿一條連身透視黑裙反而更有瞄頭!

能穿上二十多年前胞姐選美時穿過的旗袍,沒有S 型身段都很難carry得到。李玟一身葫蘆身形,穿起 旗袍當然相當好看,再加上她一頭金髮,淡藍色旗 袍即時變得好新潮,打破傳統紅裙黑髮規範。

劉心悠這身打扮,真係看得人啞口無言,先不論她 那蓬亂的髮型像個大媽,下身七分裙的花花圖案配 搭亦太過工整,土味很重,效果不美又不協調,完 全弄巧反拙!

In this Lanvin floral embroidery full skirt, matched with Piaget Rose diamond jewelry, Gong Li looks every bit the star she is. However, her look is a bit too conservative, plus the netted top and floral skirt make everything a bit busy. Had she worn a full see-through black dress, she would have had a more sharply focused look.

Leave it to Coco Lee to wear a cheongsam from her beauty queen days and still look good. With her curvy figure, she can carry a cheongsam well. Her blonde hair also makes the light blue cheongsam instantly chic and stylish and breaks the traditional cheongsam mode of black hair with red dress.

This look on Annie Liu leaves one speechless. With her tousled hair, she appears quite momlike. The floral pattern on the midi-skirt is also too regular and neat. The whole look is quite peasant-like, and the result is neither beautiful nor co-ordinated. It has completely backfired!

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Dress Code

BArBie Doll

14

芭比 娃娃

overly MAture

老氣 橫行

張芝

unsophistiCAteD BriDesMAiD

土氣 伴娘

林志玲

Angelababy

Cecilia Cheung

Lin Chi-ling

本身已經cute爆的Baby,穿上這條Dior粉色低胸短 裙,簡直成個芭比娃娃般漂亮,可愛又青春,但 就欠缺少少瞄頭,若能將黑色Dior手袋,轉為bling bling手袋,會沒那麼悶。

芝雖然勝在有個sharp醒靚樣,不過這身銀色閃 石花花長裙,尤其是長袖透視款式及釘珠設計,顯 到她非常老氣,而且裙身顯得腰間及hip位很肥,認 真失策!

林志玲今次認真失策,金色珠片上衣襯絲質粉色長 裙,像是在旺角訂製的平價伴娘裙,質料一看就 知不夠華麗,完全襯托不起她 「台灣第一名模」 的身 份,散發陣陣土氣!

Baby is already super-cute. With this pink Dior low-cut mini-skirt, she looks completely like a pretty Barbie doll — cute and youthful. The only thing is that the look lacks a focal point. It will be less boring if she had switched the black Dior handbag for a bling bling bag.

Even though Cecilia Cheung has a beautiful and sharp appearance, this silver maxi-dress with sparkling stones and flowers makes her look a bit old, especially with its sheer long-sleeved style and beading design. Further, the dress makes the waist and hips look too large — very unflattering!

Lin Chi-ling uses totally the wrong strategy this time, combining a gold sequin top with a silky pink maxi-dress. This outfits looks like a cheap high street bridesmaid dress. This fabric does not have a look of luxury, and is totally unbecoming, given her “Number One Model in Taiwan” status. Instead, it gives her a country girl look!

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Dress Code

sMAll ChAnge Big iMpACt

小家 碧玉

in rAre ForM

狀態 大勇

Taylor Swift

Chloe Moretz

Catherine Zeta-Jones

今屆格林美獎,最大贏家當然是一姐Taylor Swift。 一眾至潮粉絲除了喜見偶像掃獎,還有看見她嘅形 象有少許變化,全新bob頭加twopiece套裝裙,又 型又可愛。

於新作 《第五天劫》 又要大演打戲的嘉兒,在首映禮 上亦難得地以一身密實娃娃look現身,大走可愛路 線。最緊要是能修飾她的運動員級橫膊,整個人都 變得小巧、玲瓏。

久違影壇的嘉芙蓮出席新戲 《Dad's Army》 首映禮, 依然 「材」 貌雙全,不但細紋眼袋無影無蹤,在這件 藍色晚裝襯托下,更見她保養得宜,四十六歲仍然 風韻猶存。

At this year’s Grammy Awards, Taylor Swift was, of course, a big winner again. The fans are happy to see their idol make a clean sweep, and are also happy to see a slight change in her look. Her new bob cut, matched with a twopiece dress, is stylish and cute.

In her new work, The Fifth Wave, Chloe Moretz had quite a few action scenes. At the premiere, she sports a rare conservative baby-doll look, exuding adorable cuteness. More importantly, the dress trims her athletic broad shoulders and makes her look small and exquisite.

Catherine Zeta-Jones has not been seen in a movie in quite a while. At the premiere of her new film, Dad’s Army, both her body and face were in top shape. Not only were there no wrinkles and baggy eyes, she looked fabulous at age 46 in this blue evening gown.

裙 Dress:Atelier Versace 鞋 Shoes:Stuart Weitzman

裙 Dress:Erdem 鞋 Shoes:Casadei

裙 Dress:Elie Saab

網評:仍然充滿阿姐級風範。 Webbuzz: Still full of celebrity power.

網評:這個年紀,就應該這樣配搭。 Webbuzz: This combination is very age-appropriate.

網評:還保持到《芝加哥》時代的風采! Webbuzz: She looked as good as she did in Chicago !

(fabsugar.com)

(acteresshot.net)

(fabsugar.com)

16

少變 多美

Cute little pACkAge

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Dress Code

stAr Attorney

紅牌 大狀

瑰麗 堂皇

lADy oF the house

典型 少奶

Amal Clooney

PeneLope Cruz

Jennifer Aniston

佐治古尼的大狀太太Amal,打官司好不好我不知 道,只肯定她的時裝觸覺是一等一!試問有多少人 襯起這套鮮紅套裙,搶眼之餘,還保留到專業人士 應有的氣場?

女主角彭妮露古絲就反其道而行,穿上超貼身的黑 色晚裝,露得不多但勝在有曲線美,而且加上大量 金綫花紋點綴,非常大陣仗,可以話貴價得來又不 俗氣。

《非常索凸務2》 (Zoolander 2) 的紐約首映禮,居然 被來為編劇老公打氣的珍妮花搶了風頭。這件棗紅 色長裙是很standard的晚裝,只是憑著她的星味及 少奶貴氣,輕易取勝。

I don’t know how good a litigator George Clooney’s lawyer wife, Amal, is, but I am sure her fashion sense is first rate! How many people can wear this bright red suit so well? While the suit is eye-catching, it preserves the sophistication of a professional at the same time.

Penelope Cruz bucks the trend and wears a super-tight-fitting black dress. Not much skin is shown, but the dress shows off her curves. Besides, the dress is dramatically adorned with lots of gold-threaded patterns -- looking expensive, but not gaudy.

鞋 Shoes:Salvatore Ferragamo 手袋 Handbag:Dolce & Gabbana

18

MAgniFiCent AnD stAtely

At the New York premiere of Zoolander 2, Jennifer Aniston came to cheer for husband Justin Theroux, who wrote the screenplay, and totally stole the limelight. This maroon maxidress is a very standard evening gown. But Aniston’s star power and elegance makes this a winner.

裙 Dress:Balmain

裙 Dress:Galvan

網評:她的衣著配搭功力完全是明星級數! Webbuzz: Her ability to dress well is absolutely star grade!

網評:很配合她一向的作風! Webbuzz: Very much in her usual style!

網評:她絕對是完美熟女! Webbuzz: She is absolutely the perfect mature lady!

(fabsugar.com)

(popsugar.com)

(celebritystyleguide.com)

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Cover story

一起走過的日子

Twins

Time TogeTher text | 張馨遙

20

ELITEGEN

styling | AnchoR

APR

2016

photo | Michael K

make up | NatalieSoo.ki@ndnco.co(Sa), Circle Cheung@ndnco.co(Gillian)

hair | Heibie Mok@Hair Culture(Sa), Davy Yu@Salon Amarone(Gillian)


Twins被譽為兩岸三地最長壽

Twins has been together for 15 years, the longest on

的女子組合,踏入15周年,早

either side of the Strait. This Cantopop duo celebrated

前就以紅館跨年騷(15年12月

with a concert straddling the New Year at the Hong Kong

31至16年1月4日)作為慶祝活

Coliseum (from Dec. 31, 2015 to Jan. 4, 2016).

動。15年不是一個短時間,成

Fifteen years is not a short time. Fetching teens

員阿Sa(蔡卓妍)和阿嬌(鍾欣

Charlene Choi and Gillian Chung have blossomed into

潼)由少女蛻變為熟女,經歷無

sophisticated young women, having gone through their

數的人生高低起伏,多次面臨

fair share of peaks and valleys along the way. They faced

解體危機,也真的試過分開發

the threat of disbanding and, indeed, went their separate

展各自追尋自己的目標,散完

ways on occasion to pursue their own dreams. But

再聚,關係更值得珍惜。「這與

fortuitously, they reunited. No doubt this has made their

紀念不紀念無關,純粹覺得我

friendship all the more endearing.

們是時候合作做點甚麼。」阿嬌

“The show was not meant for commemoration,” Chung

說得抽象,在旁的助手幫忙解

said. “It was purely because we felt it was time we did

釋:「給人感覺她們由少女變成

something together.”

美女?」

Her assistant helpfully elaborated, saying: “Does it make

殊不知阿嬌不滿嘟嘴說:「我們

people feel you have evolved from young girls to great

少女時很醜嗎?!」對於美貌,

beauties?”

她一向很堅持,阿Sa堅持得多。

Chung countered immediately: “Were we ugly ducklings?”

「由Day 1開始,心情就很期

She takes her good looks seriously, Choi even more so.

待,好像你日日上班很辛苦,

“I’ve been looking forward to this from Day 1,” said Choi.

很久沒放假,終於等到一個假

“It’s like you finally get a day off to chill after a long spell

期的感覺,不像以前般緊張。」 without a break. 阿Sa 掛着微笑細說着。

“It’s a blessing to be able to go off on our own and then

能散能聚是一種福氣,看着

get back together again.”

Twins長大的我,突然也想感

As one who has witnessed Twins growing up, I can see

慨一下,歲月,果然不留人。

that time and tide indeed wait for no man.

Gillian: ST. by Olcay Gulsen black lace dress Sa: Chloé black print dress

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

21


COVER STORY

從不吵架 訪問當日剛巧新EP《LOL》推出,黑白色的封面,以型格包裝性感,不是 Twins一貫的可愛繽紛形象。 嬌:「今次想告訴大家,我們兩個已經成長到另一階段,無論是衣著或歌 曲,都不會再『小女孩』,外表不再賣可愛,不過本身性格還是可愛的,哈… 哈…」 Sa:「那幾首快歌跟以往Twins的曲風不同,但不同之中又很Twins,因為 Twins本身是一個品牌,一個品味,有時不需要刻意去改變,你只要跟隨時代的 軌跡去走便可以了。」 Twins上次辦演唱會已是5年前的事,需要時間磨合嗎? 嬌: 「不用,完全駕輕就熟,一站在一起,感覺就回來了,默契依然。」 Sa: 「我覺得兩個人比自己一個唱更有力量,電影可以各自各拍,因為很難 每一套戲見到你兩個,會很古怪的,但音樂可以兩個人一起!」 曾經一起努力奮鬥,一起克服困難,一起享受成果,一起遇挫失落,一起再 站起來,那份切割不斷的深厚情義不為外人道。因為特別珍惜對方,自然不會自 製紛爭。 嬌: 「我很遷就別人,哈…哈…例如今次唱片有四款封面,正因為她喜歡的 跟我不同,那出四個好了,大家不用爭,就不會去吵架,吵架傷身又傷心,何必 呢?」 Sa: 「我們的口味一向不同,不過我不會只考慮自己的喜好,她也是,只會 找適合Twins的東西,我們最一致的地方就是Twins在大家心目中的位置和分量都 一樣重要!」

They never fight LOL, their new EP, was released on the day of this interview. The black-andwhite cover underscores their sophisticated sex appeal, a departure from the cutesy images of the past. “We want to tell everyone this time that both of us have progressed to a different stage of our lives, in terms of our fashion sense or songs,” Chung said. “We are no longer ‘little girls’. We don’t parade cuteness any more, but our personalities are still adorable. LOL.” Choi added: “The fast songs are not in the usual Twins style, yet they are still very Twins, because Twins itself is a brand, a preference, and it doesn’t need to be deliberately changed. All you need to do is go with the flow of the time.” The last Twins concert was five years ago. Did it take time to get reaquainted? “Not at all,” Chung said. “We know each other so well. As soon as we regroup, we get the feeling back instantly. The chemistry is still there.” Choi said singing together is so much more powerful than singing solo. “We can do movies separately, as it’s difficult and strange to have both of us in every movie we do,” she said. “However, we can do music together.” Together they have worked hard, overcome difficulties, enjoyed the fruits of their labour, faced setbacks and then stood up again. The depth of their friendship is envied by many. “I’m easy going, LOL,” said Chung. “There wre four cover shots to choose from. Her preference was different from mine, so why not use all four? Then we don't have to fight over this. Argument is not good for our well-being, so why do it?” Choi agreed, saying: “We always have different tastes, but I don’t limit myself to consider only what I like. She’s the same, and we both look for things that are suitable for Twins. The one thing that we absolutely agree on is that Twins have an equally important place in everyone’s heart.” Crystal embellished floral lace top $7,430 Pleat lace maxi skirt $6,030 Both from Chloé and available at lanecrawford.com Swarovski crystal necklace Balenciaga D’orsay sequin pumps $1,670 (matchesfashion.com)

22

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



COVER STORY Sa: Light blue shirt Light blue print sleeveless top Light blue fur skirt Black Mary-Jane heels All from Giorgio Armani Gilllian: Beige turtle neck sweater Beige and brown fur vest Beige pants All from Ralph Lauren

習慣意外 開過大大小小的演唱會,談到最深刻的,二人不約而同答首個 《Ichiban興奮 演唱會》 ,說來威水,當年Twins不但是歷史上出道時間最短便踏上 「音樂殿堂」 紅 館的歌手,當時只有19歲的阿Sa更破紀錄成為最年輕在紅館開騷的女藝人。 嬌: 「我們拿了羅文的紅館檔期,公司突然說要開演唱會,當時只推出了兩 張EP,只有幾首歌,一定不夠啦,必須借助前輩。而那些前輩,像家燕姐、草 蜢、葉蒨文等等,我們雖然欣賞,但不太熟他們的歌嘛,短時間內要記四十幾首 歌,full dress rehearsal只有一次,用了三個多小時,見到舞台周圍的人已經睡着 了,我們仍然錯舞步錯歌詞,很擔心很緊張,睡不着又生很多痱滋 (口瘡) ,完全 崩潰,所以很難忘,尤其感激很多人購票來看。」 Sa: 「《零四好玩演唱會》 也很難忘,第一次做跨年演唱會,即將踏入倒數之 前幾分鐘突然停電,米高峰沒聲,幸好臨近過年幾秒前搶救成功,嚇死我,當時 工作人員已經拿了揚聲器給我們,正準要大叫的啦!」

Getting used to accidents Of all the concerts they’ve had over the years, the most unforgettable one, to both of them, was the Ichiban Amazing Show. They were proud that Twins made it in record time to the Hong Kong Coliseum shortly after their debut. Chung, who was then 19, was the youngest artist ever to star in a concert in the “Royal Albert Hall” of Hong Kong. “The time slot at Hong Kong Coliseum was originally slated for Roman Tam and then, out of the blue, our record company wanted to stage a concert for us,” Chung recalled. “At that time, we only had two EPs. “The few songs in there were nowhere near enough for a show, so we asked for help from other established artists, like Nancy Sit Ka Yin, the Grasshoppers and Sally Yeh. We loved their songs, but we weren’t familiar with them. So, we had to learn more than 40 songs quickly. “There was only one full dress rehearsal of just over three hours. The staff around the stage were exhausted and we still couldn’t get the lyrics and the dance moves right. We were worried and nervous. We couldn’t sleep and our mouths were covered in sores. “We were on the verge of a breakdown. That was really unforgettable. We should thank especially the supporters who bought tickets for the show.” Choi said the Matsunichi Twins ‘04 Concert in 2004 was also unforgettable. “That was the first time we did a show straddling the New Year. A few minutes before the New Year’s Eve countdown, the power went out. The microphones were off. The staff brought out loudspeakers and we readied ourselves to scream at the top of our lungs. Fortunately, the power was fixed in the nick of time. Phew!”

24

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


ELITEGEN

APR

2016

25


COVER STORY

商機無限 演唱會之後,或者可以一起拍齣電影,相信大家都很期待。 Sa: 「我也想呀,要有機會才成。但可否不要再找我們做賊?整天偷東西很 悶, 《見習黑玫瑰》 偷完, 《千機變》 又偷, 《千機變2》 再偷, 《雙子神偷》 又是偷, 從古到今不停偷,哈…哈…」 她們滿肚密圈,連合伙做生意也在計劃之中。 Sa:「Twins可以做的東西很多,不只衣服鞋子,你想想Twins牌『鴛鴦火 鍋』 ,Twins牌 『孖條』 ,是否很有創意?無限商機,快給我一個like!」 其實相處多年,有沒有一些習慣是對方看不順眼,到今時今日終於改掉的? Sa: 「她塗少了潤唇膏,我滴少了眼藥水。」 嬌: 「我以前一個禮拜吃一支潤唇膏,她就長期乾眼症,愈滴愈依賴!」 知己好友促膝談心時總會想像大家未來的畫面,誰先結婚?誰三年抱兩?誰 的老公又有錢又帥? Sa: 「我覺得她無論四、五、六、七十歲,都會是這張面孔,應該大定了。」 嬌: 「她老了就似Sa媽囉,哈…哈…」 Sa: 「我覺得阿嬌會很忙打理家頭細務,因為就算很細微的事,她都會用很 多心思時間去處理,所以會由朝忙到晚囉,而我就是隨便把垃圾掃進梳化底的 人。」 我深信在她們心目中,比起自己,更希望對方快一點找到幸福。

Limitless opportunities After the concert, perhaps you can do a movie together. Surely everyone is waiting for that. “I would like that too, but we have to wait for opportunity to knock,” Chung said. “May I request, though, not to cast us as thieves? It’s tiring having to steal all the time -- in Black Rose Academy, and then in The Twins Effect, and again in The Twins Effect II, and again in Twins Mission. It’s never stopped throughout our history. LOL.” They have lots of plans, including going into business together. “There are lots of businesses Twins can ride on, other than clothes and shoes,” Choi said. “Imagine Twins hotpot or Twins double ice-lolly. Aren't they offthe-wall ideas? There are limitless opportunities, so give me a like now!” Having spent so much time with each other for so long, are there any unsavoury habits the other exhibits that you are glad to see corrected finally? “She’s putting on less lip balm, and I am using less eye drops,” Choi said, jokingly. Chung countered: “I used to chew up one lip balm in a week, and she has always had dry-eye problems, and has been reliant on eye drops.” You must have had “girl talks” on who will get married first, to a rich, handsome man, and who will have children in quick succession. “I think she’s going to look the same in her 40s, 50s, 60s or 70s,” Choi saidw. “This is as much as she will grow.” Chung believes she will “look like Charlene’s mom” when she gets old, while Choi says she thinks “Gillian will be busy with housework because she is meticulous and will devote much thought and time all day on even the smallest details. Me? I’ll just sweep all the rubbish under the sofa.” I truly believe they care more about the other twin finding happiness than they do themselves.

Emporio Armani black ruffles top Ted Baker skirt

26

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Watch Story

text | Ringo photo | Kauzrambler

28

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


小王子好奇心強、愛冒險、經常周遊

The Little Prince is curious, adventurous and well-

各地,這跟IWC的品牌特質,不是很匹

travelled. IWC is the same. Aren’t they a perfect

配嗎?差點還說漏很重要一點:小王

match? It should also be mentioned that Antoine

子作者聖艾修伯里( Antoine de Saint-

de Saint-Exupéry, author of Le Petit Prince, is kind-

Exupéry )很有善心,IWC正努力延續這

hearted, and IWC is striving to continue this amazing

份跟品牌宗旨不謀而合的美意……

common attribute.

《小王子》遺愛人間

Heart-Warming legacy of The LiTTLe Prince

早陣子上映的《小王子》電影,故事經過荷李活改

Le Petit Prince was embellished and made into a Hollywood blockbuster

篇,比法國原著加添了許多繽紛支節,一時間市場又

not long ago. This has made the blond young man a hot property all over again.

再興起這位金黃髮少年熱潮。要介紹小王子跟IWC的

The relationship between IWC and The Little Prince can be traced back to the

淵源,大概先要由誕生於1900年的作者聖艾修伯里說

classic novel’s author, who was born in 1900. He went to a small airport in

起……12歲的聖艾修伯里某天走進法國某個小機場,

France when he was 12 and begged a pilot to take him up into the sky. After

苦苦哀求一位飛位員帶他飛上天空,結果小小兜兩個

two flights, he was hooked. He wanted to be a pilot.

圈,影響了這小子日後的飛機夢。聖艾修伯里並沒有 一帆風順,經過很多次考試及培訓,在23歲才第一次

The flight path towards achieving his dream took some twists and turns.

個人飛上巴黎天際,從此開展他的飛行理想及任

Eventually, after he turned 23, he made his maiden solo flight above Paris,

務;在二次大戰前他曾擔任郵遞航空機師,戰爭

launching his aeronautical career. He piloted mail flights until the outbreak of

期間加入法國空軍,退役後旅居美加,積極游說

the Second World War, at which time he joined the French air force.

美國加入反納粹的戰爭。不得不提是,聖艾 修伯里除了是成功的飛行員,他還一身兼

It’s important to note that de Saint-Exupéry was a promoter, a

推廣員、記者、作家等多職,當中較有

journalist and a writer as much as a pilot. His bestsellers Southern

名的《南方郵航》及《夜間飛行》小說,都 是跟航空歷程有關的,而最膾炙人口

Mail and Night Flight are about flying adventures. His best-known work, The Little Prince, was finished during the war and became

的《小王子》故事,則是在二戰期間寫

so popular that it was translated into 260 languages. Sadly, de

成,受歡迎程度是曾給翻譯為260種

Saint-Exupéry’s luck ran out when he went missing in a 1944

語言出版。所謂瓦罐不離井上破,聖

flying mission over southern France. His wristband was found

艾修伯里在1944年的一次飛行任務

by a Marseille fisherman in 1998 and the wreckage of his P-38

中,飛上了法國南部天空後便音訊杳

Lightning fighter jet was salvaged from the Mediterranean in 2000.

然,一直到1998年有位馬賽的漁夫發 現了他的手帶,而他所駕駛的P-38閃

The father of The Little Prince has passed on, but his spirit

電式戰機殘骸,亦於2000年在地中

stays with us. His descendants later set up the Antoine de Saint-

海給打撈上來。

Exupéry Youth Foundation to carry on his humanitarian work and help educate and engage underprivileged youth. The president of the

小王子之父雖死,但其精神永遠不滅。 其後人為了延續他的人道主義精神,成立了 聖艾修伯里青少年基金會(Antoine de SaintExupéry Youth Foundation),致力為全球弱 勢青少年提供教育及各方面協助,讓他們重新 融入社區,基金會主席Olivier d'Agay(是聖艾 修伯里的侄孫) 曾表示: 「教育,是消除文盲的

foundation is Olivier d’Agay, a grand-nephew of de Saint-Exupéry. In his words, “Education is the key to eradicate illiteracy.” 小王子作者聖艾修伯里,是飛行員、是冒險家、是推廣員、是 記者、是作家,也是一位熱愛和平的善心人。 Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, author of The Little Prince, was a pilot, an adventurer, a promoter, a journalist and a writer all in one. He was also a peace-loving philanthropist.

關鍵。」

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

29


Watch Story

故事的發展是有心人遇上有心人,比伯樂遇上千

About 10 years ago, IWC’s CEO Georges Kern found himself seated beside

里馬更巧合。約在2006年,IWC的CEO Georges Kern

d’Agay on a flight. They got to talking — the outcome of which was a decision to

某天乘坐飛機,鄰座碰巧就是Olivier先生,兩人閒談起

collaborate.

來十分投契,於是促成了基金會跟品牌的合作。兩大 單位先合力在Le Boruget博物館展出聖艾修伯里飛機殘 骸的展覽,之後IWC便推出了一系列特別向聖艾修伯里

Saint—Exupéry’s fighter in Le Bourget museum. Since then, IWC has launched

致敬的腕錶,腕錶的特色是採用其棕色飛行服作為主

various watch collections as a salute to the man. The collections use the brown

色調,錶盤也刻上聖艾修伯里的簽名式 「A」 字。

tone of his flight uniform as the main colour and bear his signature “A” on the dial.

所有腕錶的收入,品牌都會撥捐一部分給基金

Part of the proceeds from the watch sales is donated to the foundation. IWC

會,IWC每年更會製造一枚特別版腕錶供拍賣,所得收

also creates a collectible piece every year for auction and all money raised goes

益當然也歸基金會所有。

to the foundation.

由Antoine到小王子 如上頁所說,自2006年開始IWC成為聖艾修伯里 青少年基金會合作夥伴,自此便以聖艾修伯里所創作 的文學作品或個人經歷擷取設計靈感,推出過7款枚聖 艾修伯里的pilot watch特別版腕錶。但真真正正以「小 王子」作為設計題材的,則要等到《小王子》誕生70周 年,即是2013年才開始,直至今年才推出過5款作品。

30

The two organizations combined to stage an exhibition of the wreckage of de

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

From Antoine to Le Petit Prince Since 2006, IWC has partnered with the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Youth Foundation. The brand has taken inspiration from de Saint-Exupéry’s literary works and adventures to create seven special-edition Saint-Exupéry pilot watches. The one that is themed after Le Petit Prince was made in 2013, 70 years after the book was first published. Five versions have been produced since.



Watch Story

01

Pilot's Watch Mark XVII Edition "Le Petit Prince" ( 2013 )

最經典的飛行員錶造型,沒有多餘枝節,特大數字和刻度、寬闊指針、

大顆錶冠,全部是為了飛行員在非常光亮的高空環境下可容易讀出時間。設 計師在秒針末端加上一顆星星,代表小王子來自外太空另一個星球,錶盤則 換上代表午夜星空的深藍色。不鏽鋼錶殼直徑41mm,配備防磁軟鐵內殼抵 抗磁場影響,限量1,000枚,當年定價$7,000,火速給搶購一空。 The most classic pilot watch has no unnecessary details. Big numerals and indexes, with wide hands and a large crown, are intended for easy reading by pilots flying in a glaring open sky. A star is added to the end of the second hand to denote that the Little Prince came to Earth from a tiny asteroid. The midnight blue dial is a nod to the night sky. The stainless steel case measures 41 millimetres and has a soft-iron inner case to protect against magnetism. The edition was limited to 1,000 pieces at $7,000 a piece, and was sold out as soon as it was launched.

02

Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition "Le Petit Prince" ( 2013 )

同為2013年作品,這枚萬年曆上小王子恰如其分地出現於月相盤內。為

此品牌的月相經過特別改動,平時Big Pilot萬年曆是用南北半球均可閱讀的 雙月相顯示,現在為了製造小王子站在星球上觀星的經典場面,特別改用傳 統的月相盤。萬年曆外,腕錶還有可儲存長達7天動力的能耐,紅金錶殼直徑 46mm,配品牌罕見的深藍色錶盤,錶底擺陀上也有小王子觀星插圖雕刻,限 量270枚,當年定價$70,000。 In this perpetual calendar watch, the Little Prince takes his place in the moonphase display. For this edition, the traditional moonphase plate is used to display the classic scene of the Little Prince standing on a planet, watching the stars. It is a deviation from the moonphase of Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar, in that it is readable in either the northern or southern hemisphere display. In addition to its perpetual calendar, the watch features seven-day power reserve. The 46-millimetre red gold case is paired with a midnight blue dial, a rarity among IWC watches. The “Le Petit Prince” engraving also appears on the winding rotor on the case back. The edition is limited to 270 pieces and carried a price tag of $70,000 at launch.

03

Pilot's Watch Chronograph Edition "Le Petit Prince" ( 2014 )

大概是見到2013年W&W推出的小王子大受歡迎,品牌迫不

及待於數月後才再推出計時及日曆款式,更以非限量版形式推 出(到目前為止仍是唯一一款)。43mm精鋼錶殼內搭Cal. 79320 自動上鏈機芯,三小錶盤再配星期及日期小窗,布局非常豐富。 Perhaps in response to the enthusiastic reception to the Le Petit Prince at the 2013 W&W, IWC quickly launched a chronograph and calendar edition within a few months, the only unlimited Le Petit Prince edition to date. Within the 43-millimetre stainless steel case is the automatic Cal. 79320. The dial features three sub-dials and the apertures show day of the week and date.

32

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


04

Big Pilot's Watch Edition "Le Petit Prince" ( 2015 )

限量1,000枚的精鋼版趕得及在2014年的W&W應市,這枚進

階紅金版本則留待2015年給大家多一個選擇,只限量1,000枚。 錶盤找不到半點小王子的痕跡,賣點都落在3時位置顯示的7天動 力儲存上,由Cal. 51111自動機芯提供。要看看小王子模樣,麻 煩翻轉錶背了。 The limited edition of 1,000 stainless steel pieces was launched in time for the 2014 W&W. The more luxurious red gold version wasn’t launched until 2015, also limited to 1,000 pieces. Le Petit Prince is nowhere to be seen on the dial. The selling point is the seven-day power reserve display at 3 o’clock. It is powered by automatic Cal. 51111. Still looking for Le Petit Prince? Check out the case back.

05

Pilot Watch Double Chronograph Edition "Le Petit Prince" ( 2015 )

這枚限量1,000枚、具追針計時的小王子腕錶,風頭都給錶盤上

的7顆星星搶去了。每天這顆星星會自由地閃耀至不同位置,喻意的 是小王子會出奇不意地飛去不同星體,探訪不同人物。人物有誰?底 蓋上刻了端倪,分別有國王、虛榮的人、酒鬼、商人、點燈人、地理 學家,以及別具意義的紅玫瑰。 The seven stars on the dial steal the thunder of the double chronograph complication of this limited edition of 1,000 pieces. Every day, one of the stars in the inner circle of the dial lights up in gold in a different spot to symbolize the visit of the little prince to a different planet. Who does he visit? They are listed on the back of the watch – they are the king, the vain man, the drunkard, the businessman, the lamplighter, the geographer or the rose.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

33


Watch Story

06

Pilot Watch Chronograph Edition "The Last Night" ( 2014 )

這腕錶充滿傷感,因為是為了紀念Antoine在1944年進行飛行偵測

任務時,在南法起飛不久,便在土倫給一名德國空軍襲擊而擊落,直 到半個世紀後一位馬賽漁夫才於大海發現其手帶……腕錶的46mm錶 殼特別由氮化矽陶瓷製,內搭的Cal. 89361自動機芯提供飛返計時功 能。鉑金限量17枚、紅金限量170枚,這枚鈦金屬的限量1,700枚。 This is an emotionally charged edition, commemorating de SaintExupéry’s fatal mission in 1944. His was shot down by a German fighter in Toulon, soon after he had taken off. It was half a century later that a Marseille fisherman found his wristband in the ocean….The 46-millimetre case is made of silicon nitrate ceramic and it is powered by automatic Cal. 89361, with flyback chronograph function. The platinum version is limited to 17 pieces, the red gold version 170 pieces and this titanium version 1,700 pieces.

小王子於SIHH 2016 這枚在SIHH 2016展出的小王子年曆腕錶,年 曆功能固然吸引,但上半部一字排開的月份、日 期、星期3個視窗,去年已出現於Portugieser,這 次搭載的Cal. 52850自動機芯放置於Big Pilot's系列 而已。叫我們感驚喜的,反而是錶背的自動擺陀, 它化身為小王子及星球,大大個的,由純金打造, 上面以拋光及磨砂效果造出聖艾修伯里筆下栩栩 如生的小王子造型。紅金錶殼直徑為46mm,限量 250枚。

Le Petit Prince in SIHH 2016 This very attractive Le Petit Prince is the star in this year’s SIHH . The annual calendar is striking of course, so is single-line alignment of the apertures for month, date and day of the week, as seen in last year’s Portugieser. This collection is powered by the automatic Cal. 52850. We were pleasantly surprised by the rotor on the case back – Le Petit Prince in pure gold looms large on a star. The prince is brought to life by a mix of polished and matte effects. It is magical to see him go round and round when the watch is wound. The case in red gold measures 46 millimetres. It is limited to 250 pieces.

34

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Watch news

錶壇如靈猴

Year of MonkeY 2016

有命理術數家推算,今年不會是興旺

Some fortune-tellers may predict that business is not

的一年,但有說猴子機靈乖巧,計仔

going to be remarkable this year. Still, one hopes that,

多多凡事懂變通,屢屢能化險為夷;

like the shrewd, resourceful and dexterous monkeys who

大家也寄望猴年錶壇能如靈猴般百變

are born survivors, the watchmaking industry — with

多計,打出一片光明天;也正如各牌

some ingenuity — will find a promising way forward,

子推出一系列猴年腕錶般,百花齊

flourishing once again as vibrantly as the range of watches

放,各自各精采!

commemorating the “Year of the Monkey.”

text | Ringo, Delia Shum photo | Kauzrambler

36

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


(所有價錢均為約價,僅供參考。) (All prices are estimated)

自2012年起,Piaget每年都會

Since 2012, Piaget has been introducing

採用大明火掐絲琺瑯工藝,推出一款

a Cloisonné enamel watch in the Altiplano

Altiplano「Art & Excellence」系列中

“Art and Excellence” collection every year to

國生肖錶。今年品牌繼續邀請到琺瑯

mark the Chinese zodiac. This year, the brand

大師Anita Porchet在纖薄的38mm錶

continued to work with master enameller

盤上繪製「靈猴獻桃」的圖案,精細得

Anita Porchet and presented a playful monkey

連猴子的毛髮都纖毫畢現。

handing out a peach. The cloisonné enamel on

大師先以金絲折出圖案輪廓所 需的琺瑯小間隔,然後以手工將琺

the delicate 38-millimetre dial is so refined that one can see the texture of the monkey’s fur.

瑯釉料鑿碎及混合,再用幼細的畫 筆將釉料填入小間隔內。琺瑯靈猴

The artisan twists gold threads to form

的精妙之處,在於大師的精巧工藝

hollow partitions, then uses a fine brush to

能塑造出細緻漸變的灰色,以完美

delicately fill the partitions with pigments

無瑕的上釉技術,將色彩從深至淺逐

crushed and mixed by hand. The magic touch

層塗在錶盤間隔上。白金錶殼直徑

lies in the gradient effect by using cloisonné to

38mm,錶殼鑲有78顆

create shades of grey.

共重0.7克拉鑽石,搭 載430P超薄手上鏈機

The white gold case is set

芯。腕錶限量38枚。

with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds

(約售$86,500)

of 0.7 carats. It is powered by a Piaget 430P hand-winding

Piaget

mechanical movement and is limited to 38 pieces. ($86,500)

Altiplano Cloisonne Enamal-Monkey 近年Panerai不斷為旗下腕錶換上自家製機芯,生肖錶自然不會例外,去年的羊錶 已採用P.9000自動機芯,代替了原本的OPIII機芯,功能不變,一樣是小三針加日曆顯 示,但意義則有所不同,今年作為第8枚生肖系列的猴錶當然要延續這項傳統。 為了配合「靈猴獻桃」的喻意,可愛的馬騮仔正坐在一片桃花林中,手托「桃子」,而 這顆桃子更刻上「猴」字。生肖錶的製作方式與以往相同,圖案被手工鐫刻在錶蓋上,以 一種名為「Sparsello」的獨特工具於精鋼上雕刻凹槽,再陷入多層金絲勾勒出馬騮與桃花 的輪廓。錶蓋採用整塊AISI 316L不鏽鋼製成,錶面光滑細緻,配備同 樣素材鑄造的護橋裝置,直徑44mm,限量99枚。(約售$32,000) Panerai has been using its proprietary movements for its own collections, including the zodiac collection. For the “Year of the Goat” watch last year, the automatic P.9000 was used in lieu of the original OPIII caliber. The zodiac watch is imbued with a different meaning. It’s logical that one-eighth of the zodiac collection carries on along the same vein. To convey the blessing of the monkey bringing long life,

猴年錶僅限量99枚。 The “Year of the Monkey” edition is limited to 99 pieces.

the watch features a loveable monkey holding a peach in a garden. The peach is engraved with the Chinese character for monkey. The zodiac watch is made differently this time, by hand-engraving lines with a sparsello, a unique tool for etching grooves on stainless steel. The grooves are then filled with 打開錶蓋內側是一面小鏡, 可以反射錶盤或照一照鏡。 The underside of the case cover is a mirror. It reflects the dial, or can be used as a small mirror.

numerous thin gold threads to eke out the silhouettes of the monkey and the peach. The 44-millimetre case is fashioned from a whole piece of AISI 316L stainless steel, as is the crown guard. The edition is limited to 99 pieces. ($32,000)

Panerai PAM00850 Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio – 44mm

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

37


Watch News

Jaquet Droz 今次是Jaquet Droz第三年造生肖錶,第一次為馬年造了 三款錶,去年只造了一款「三陽開泰」羊錶,來到猴年,品牌以 琺瑯彩繪及雕刻方式造了兩款不同姿態的「美猴王」。品牌錶示 腕錶的靈感來自神話傳奇中的孫悟空,不過畫出來及雕出來的 則是一頭獼猴,這種猴子屬於亞洲標誌性猴類,具有智慧及長 壽的意思。 第一款Petite Heure Minute Monkey是以大明火琺瑯錶盤 上微繪出獼猴奔向桃枝的動態,牠雙眼有神地盯著桃子,準

擺陀結合了金雕、 上色工藝及縞瑪瑙 材質,上面的小猴 子正在吃桃。 The rotor, made in gold, with a black onyx insert, features a hand-engraved gold monkey eating a peach.

備出手採摘。腕錶直徑39mm,紅金錶殼,搭載2653P自動機 芯,錶背的22K紅金擺陀上亦刻有與錶盤接近的靈猴摘桃圖 案。另一款Petite Heure Minute Relief Monkey則運用珍珠貝 母與漆面營造出一簇葉叢,將金雕的獼猴襯托得更為突出。 工匠先在黑漆錶盤上雕刻出線 條,再將貝母刻劃及繪上顏 色,成為一大叢樹葉,而走在 樹枝上的獼猴亦是全靠人手雕 刻而成。腕錶直徑41mm,搭 載2653.Si自動機芯,具有65小 時動力儲備。各限量28枚。

Petite Heure Minute Relief Monkey

自動擺陀上刻有與錶盤 接近的靈猴摘桃圖案。 The rotor features a monkey design, matching the one on the dial.

鑲鑽白金雕刻款 White gold and diamonds $110,000

This is the third year that Jaquet Droz has made a Chinese zodiac watch. Three styles were made for the “Year of the Horse” when the Chinese zodiac watch was first made. Last year, only one goat watch featuring three auspicious goats was made. For the “Year of the Monkey,” there are two different looks, using enamel and engraving to depict the “fine-looking monkey,” said to be inspired by the legendary Monkey God. It looks more like a macaque, though. This species is widely seen in Asia and is a symbol of intelligence and long life. On the Grand Feu enamel dial of the first edition, Petite Heure Minute Monkey, a monkey is pictured leaping for a peach branch, eyes fixed on a peach and reaching for it. A similar painting is also engraved on the 22-karat red gold rotor on the case back. The 39-millimetre case is in red gold, and it houses a 2653P automatic caliber. The other version, Petite Heure Minute Relief Monkey, has a gold monkey standing out in carved foliage on the lacquer and mother-of-pearl dial. The artisan outlines the foliage on the black lacquer dial and then engraves the mother-of-pearl before adding colours. The monkey on the foliage is also hand-engraved. The watch sports a 41-millimetre case and is powered by a 2653.Si automatic caliber, offering 65 hours of power reserve. It is limited to 28 pieces.

38

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

Petite Heure Minute Monkey 39mm 微繪大明火琺瑯款 Grand Feu Enamel $43,000


Chopard has been working with Japanese lacquer master Urushi for a long time. The Chinese zodiac

ChoParD

collection for this year is inspired by an auspicious folk

L.U.C XP Urushi “Year of the Monkey”

shows a clever monkey picking eight peaches, to suggest

painting “Golden Monkey Picking Peaches”. The painting long life and good fortune. For this collection, Chopard again works with the Yamada Heiando, the lacquer for

蕭邦已與日本蒔繪大師合作多年,今年繼續推出生

Japan’s imperial family.

肖腕錶,靈感來自一幅寓意吉祥的中國民俗畫作:《金猴 摘桃》。這個傳統年畫主題,以靈猴採摘8顆蜜桃,來象

Master Kilchiro Masumura was invited to design the

徵長壽與好運。一如以往,錶盤由日本皇室御用漆器製

dial, and Master Minori Koizumi to execute the design,

作商山田平安堂製作,先是日本稱為「人間國寶」的蒔繪

depicting a red-coated monkey gathering peaches from a

泰斗大師增村紀一郎親自設計錶盤,再由品牌特別邀請

branch laden with fruit in golden valleys. The soft tones are

的蒔繪大師小泉三教繪製。錶盤一隻紅猴攀爬於結滿碩

a perfect match with the warmth of the 18-karat pink gold.

果的樹枝上正在摘桃,背景則是金色山谷,色調與玫瑰

It measures 39.5 millimetres and is powered by a L.U.C

金錶殼配搭完美。腕錶直徑39.5mm,搭載L.U.C 96.17-L

96.17-L ultra-thin automatic movement, producing 65

超薄自動機芯,具有65小時動力儲備。(約售$29,500)

hours of power reserve. ($29,500)

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

39


Watch News

江詩丹頓繼續以中國的剪紙藝術與

Vacheron Constantin blends Chinese papar-

瑞士的剪影藝術(Scherenschnitt)作為

cutting art with Swiss Scherenschnitte silhouette

設計意念,將生肖錶系列發揚光大。腕

cutting art for this Chinese zodiac collection. The

錶上的葉子裝飾年年有所不同,今年

foliage motif based on Chinese iconography takes

更像桃花一般;每一代生肖錶上的 葉子樣式都是源自經典的中國圖 案,由工匠在金質錶盤上雕刻 而成。

on a new look every year. This year it evokes the peach blossom. The motif is etched directly onto the metal dial. The dial then goes through Grand Feu enamelling,

之後錶盤還要經過大明

with enamel applied in several layers

火琺瑯處理,琺瑯大師會連

to enhance the intensity of the blue or

續塗抹數層的琺瑯釉,進一

bronze tone of the dial.

步凸顯出藍色或古銅色錶盤 的視覺張力。最後便是今年 的主角馬騮,全手工雕刻的鉑 金或金質猴子。腕錶沿用原有的

The monkey taking centre stage this year is hand-engraved in platinum or gold. Once again, the 2460 G4 automatic

2460 G4自動機芯,具有4個跳字視

caliber, featuring four apertures, is used. The

窗的設計,直徑40mm,兩個外殼各

40-millimetre case comes in two forms of metal.

限 量 1 2 枚 。( 鉑 金

Each collection is limited to 12 pieces. (Platinum

版約售$180,000、

$180,000; pink gold TBD)

粉紅金版售價待定)

VaCheron Constantin Metiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Monkey

harry Winston

Premier Monkey Automatic 36mm Harry Winston今年首次推出生肖 錶,落在Premier女裝腕錶系列下。錶匠 利用18K金在錶盤雕琢靈猴,造出爬動的 形態,其猴尾更輕輕纏繞著12時位置一顆

40

重0.09克拉的祖母綠型切割鑽石。品牌非

Harry Winston has chosen its Premier women’s watch collection for its

常花心思地在粉紅色的珍珠貝母錶盤上,

first-ever Chinese zodiac watch. The artisan has used 18-karat gold to fashion

逐一嵌入24K金箔,營造出一幅星河璀

a climbing monkey. Its tail is wrapped around an emerald-cut diamond at 12

璨的美景。玫瑰金錶殼直徑36mm,搭載

o’clock. The brand has ingeniously in-laid 24-karat gold flecks on the pink mother-

HW2008自動機芯,內裡採用矽質扁平狀

of-pearl dial to create a starry backdrop. The 36-millimetre rose gold watch case is

擺輪游絲。錶殼一共鑲有74顆圓鑽,共重

set with 74 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.47 carats. It is fitted with the HW2008

2.47克拉,限量8枚。 (約售$70,000)

automatic caliber, featuring a flat silicon balance spring. ($70,000)

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Jewelry Piaget 其中兩大傳承工藝─金屬微雕 和鑲嵌寶石,在Secrets & Lights – A Mythical Journey 最新系列 中發揮極致,這系列以傳奇絲

獨一無二

The One and Only

綢之路的輝煌歷史為背景,

Piaget Limelight Exceptional Pieces

並挑選其中威尼斯和撒馬爾

$1,334,000

罕為靈感,將其豐富的文 化建築,如象徵威尼斯的 雄獅和聖瑪利大教堂等藝 術元素,融入珠寶製作之

18K白金神秘腕錶頸鏈,獅子臉造型密鑲圓形美鑽 及長方形鑽石,黑色鼻子部分是黑色瑪瑙錶盤,搭 載Piaget自家製56P石英機芯,顯示時、分。 The mysterious 18-karat platinum wristwatch necklace has the shape of a lion face filled with densely inlaid round- and rectangular-shaped diamonds. The black nose is the black agate dial plate, carrying Piaget’s self-made 56P Quartz cassette mechanism that shows hour and minute.

中,而且透過超卓的縷空 技術,令每件珠寶映照出 華麗金光。

光影藝術

Piaget Light Art text | Chappie photo | Sing

The two most important craftmanship from Piaget, intricate metal carvings and mosaic gems, are shining at their most brilliant in the newest collection of Secrets & Lights — A Mythical Journey, inspired by two legendary cities on the Silk Road: Venice, Italy and Samarkand, Uzbekistan. It uses their rich cultural heritage, including Venice’s Lion and St. Mary’s Cathedral, and instills these artistic elements into the making of jewelry.

所有價錢均為約價,僅供參考。 (all prices are estimated)

42

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

黑色瑪瑙錶盤隱藏在黑色鼻子背面,佩戴者 只需拉出黑色鼻子部分,便可輕易閱讀時間。 The black agate dial plate is hidden behind the black nose. The wearer pulls the black nose in order to read the time.


Piaget

Mediterranean Garden

Piaget

胸針 Brooch $223,000

18K玫瑰金胸針,鑲飾1顆約 重 20.61卡枕形切割黃色藍寶 石、16顆共重約6.80卡馬眼形 切割黃色綠柱石、8顆共重約 3.84卡馬眼形切割錳鋁榴石、 8顆共重約2.80卡馬眼形切割 鑽石、16顆共重約2.32卡圓形 切割錳鋁榴石及16顆共重約 1.97卡圓形美鑽。

This 18-karat rose gold brooch with a piece of 20.61-carat pillow decadent sapphire, 16 pieces of 6.80-carat, marquise-cut yellow beryl, eight pieces of 3.84-carat, marquise-cut spessartines, eight pieces of 2.80-carat, marquise- cut diamonds, 16 pieces of 2.32-carat, circular-cut spessartines and 16 pieces of 1.97-carat, circular-cut diamonds.

Piaget

Secrets and Lights 指環 Ring $111,500

18K玫瑰金指環,鑲嵌單顆約重 5.79卡枕形切割紅碧璽、1 0 顆共 重約5.5卡Akoya白珍珠、10顆共 重約2.5卡梨形切割鑽石及10顆共 重約0.07卡馬眼形切割鑽石。

This 18-karat rose gold ring is adorned with one piece of 5.5-carat pillow rubellite, 10 pieces of 5.79-carat Akoya white pearls, 10 pieces of 2.5-carat pear-shaped diamonds and 10 pieces of 0.07-carat marquise-shaped diamonds.

Secrets and Lights 頸鏈 Necklace $1,264,000

18K白金頸鏈,鑲嵌單顆重 約10卡紅色尖晶石、13顆 共重約9.62卡梨形切割鑽 石、98顆共重約22.94卡馬 眼形切割鑽石及284顆共重 約20.3卡圓形美鑽。

This 18-karat white gold necklace is adorned with a piece of 10-carat red spinel, 13 pieces of 9.62-carat pear-shaped diamonds, 98 pieces of 22.94-carat, marquise-cut diamonds and 284 pieces of 20.3-carat circularshaped diamonds.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

43


Jewelry

自1858年創辦以來,法國高級珠寶老 字號Boucheron見證着法國歷史和藝術的演進,而 藍寶石珠寶更是品牌最具代表性的設計作品。最近由品牌旗 下的Heritage Department典藏部門特別挑選九件館藏的藍寶石珠寶珍 品到亞洲展出,以及萃選自不同系列的當代藍寶石珠寶傑作,透過不同時 期的設計風格,細訴品牌晉身皇室貴族的傳奇故事。 Since its founding in 1858, the renowned French high jeweller Boucheron has witnessed the storied development of French history and art. Recently, its Heritage Department specially selected nine of its trademark sapphire treasures from its prized collection to display in Asia. Also displayed were sapphire masterpieces chosen from different collections over the years. Through the different design styles from different eras, the legendary tale of how Boucheron became part of royalty was told.

館藏珍品展覽

Boucheron

Display of a TreasureD ColleCTion text | Chappie photo | Simpson

1983年 水晶頸鏈 Crystal Necklace Boucheron家族第四代傳人Alain Boucheron喜歡將水晶用作多個珠寶 及精品系列的主要設計,頸鏈以齒狀 水晶點綴黃金、鑽石和彩色藍寶石。

44

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

The Boucheron family’s fourth-generation heir Alain Boucheron likes to use crystals as the main design element in many jewelry and boutique collections. This necklace uses tooth-shaped crystals to adorn yellow gold, diamond and multi-coloured sapphires.


1944年 18K黃金頸鏈 Yellow Gold Necklace 這屬於戰後風格的代表作,由於戰時 禁運物資,加上鉑金被國家徵用作鑄 造武器,珠寶商唯有以有限資源製作 珠寶。這頸鏈以兩條金鏈鑲嵌鑽石和 藍寶石的黃金飾件銜接,再繫上圓 環,並連接一枚鑲有藍寶石和鑽石的 橡果垂飾。

1940年 「玉米穗」胸針 “Corn Cob”Brooch 這金質 「玉米穗」 胸針分別鑲以cabochon蛋面切割藍 寶石和鑽石。這小胸針別於襟頭,象徵戰時法國人 的愛國情操。當年戰後雖然物資匱乏,但當時的女 性仍注重優雅儀表,促使珠寶師以寶石演繹清新脫 俗的美感。 This gold “corn cob” brooch features an inset of an oval-cut sapphire and diamonds. Pinning this small brooch on one’s lapel shows the patriotic spirit of the French. During the post-war years, even though material resources were scarce, women still wanted to look elegant. As a result, jewellers used gemstones to express a fresh, out-of-this world beauty.

This is a masterpiece of the post-war style. Because transportation of materials was prohibited during the Second World War, and all platinum was appropriated by the government to make weapons, jewellers had limited resources. This necklace fused two gold chains using diamonds, sapphires and yellow gold ornaments as connectors. Then, a ring was attached, as well as an acorn-shaped pendant with sapphires and diamonds.

1900年 指環 Ring

Lumiere Jodhpur 藍寶石戒指 Sapphire Ring

1889─1900年間寶石雕刻技術是上乘的工藝,此金 質戒指為當時的傑作,鑲嵌一顆雕刻了男爵冠圖案 的鑽石,並以特別切割的藍寶石圍攏,以代表男爵 冠乃男爵身份的象徵,突顯穿戴者的貴族身份及社 會地位。

這全場最貴的典藏瑰寶,價值約$160萬的白金戒 指,鑲嵌1顆重達9.75卡緬甸藍寶石,此藍寶石未經 加熱,極度罕有,世間難求。

From 1889 to 1900, jewel carving techniques were highly sought after. This gold ring was a masterpiece of that era, set with a solitaire diamond carved with a baron crown pattern and surrounded by specially-cut sapphires. This baron crown represents the status of a baron, and accentuated the wearer’s nobility and social status.

This is the most expensive and the most treasured piece in the exhibit. The white gold ring is valued at around $1.6 million. It features a single Burmese sapphire weighing 9.75 carats that has not undergone heat treatment, and is an extraordinarily rare find.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

45


Fashion Headline

米蘭秋冬時裝周

2016 Milan

Autumn-Winter FAshion Week 時裝周中與行家討論最多的話題,莫過於

During Fashion Week, the topic that dominated

近季頻見的即騷即賣文化,這邊廂Fendi、

talks involving industry experts was the newly

Prada、Moschino完騷後紛紛搶閘將秋冬新

popular fast-fashion culture. On one side, we see

貨上架;那邊廂Armani大師則發聲明指改變

that Fendi, Prada and Moschino had just finished

日程是理所當然,但這是需要時間而不應操

shows and were rushing to put their new Autumn-

之過急……。

Winter designs on the racks. text | Lucas Tang photo | Harrison Tsui

46

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


Dolce & Gabbana完場finale依舊聲勢浩蕩,大隊 穿着閃亮公主裙的女模並列謝幕。 Dolce & Gabbana’ s finale was grand, with a large group of models wearing princess dresses at curtain call.

其實各家自掃門前雪,有些設計賣的是概念,以快打快絕對合理。然而那些工序繁 多的作品是需要時間一針一線打造,相信懂得欣賞的人亦會樂意等候。時裝革命不斷升 溫,快或慢也罷,至少這變動令品牌們各自不敢怠慢,得益者自然是各位用家吧! Over there, we see Maestro Armani announcing that although it is reasonable to change one’s agenda, this takes time and cannot be rushed. To be sure, each brand has its own focus. Some designs sell on concepts, and so being fast to market makes a lot of sense. But products involving many steps require time to complete, stitch by stitch, and people who know how to appreciate this detailed handiwork are more than willing to wait. Whatever your preference, there is no doubt that the fashion revolution is heating up. So whether going fast or slow, this change keeps the brands on their toes and, in turn, benefits the customer!

r, Lucas Tang

Fashion Edito

Philip Plein的秋冬騷不僅用上多架貨車接載女模登 場,同場加映美國歌手Chris Brown的精采演出。 Philipp Plein needed several trucks to transport its designs to the show and the fashion house’ s presentation also included a fantastic performance by American singer Chris Brown.

Fendi騷中兩位貴賓Piro- chan及Bugkun毛公 仔,完騷後品牌更即時於網上發售以它們為造 型的吊飾,全球限量80件。 Fendi’ s show featured two guests, Piro-chan and Bug-kun. After the show, Fendi sold bag charms featuring these two plush dolls, with a limited sale of 80 pieces worldwide.

時裝周最大收穫是有機會與不同人士交流,這 次喝咖啡時巧遇新晉女模Achok Majak,大家一 見如故,從時裝八卦到種族問題,談個不停。 My biggest gain from Fashion Week was the opportunity to network with different people. I ran into new model Achok Majak over coffee, and we immediately hit it off. We chatted for a long time on a wide range of topics, from fashion gossip to race relations.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

47


Fashion Headline

Key Trends

Puffy Sleeves 泡泡大袖為造型增添戲劇張 力,Dolce & Gabbana與Prada 分別以oraganza紗布及褶襇雪紡 打造圓肩線條;Marni則為刻板的 恤衫加上泡泡袖口,趣味倍增。 Puffy sleeves add drama to the outfit. Dolce & Gabbana and Prada each used organza and pleated chiffon fabric to create rounded shoulder lines, while Marnie added puffy sleeves to the stodgy dress shirt to add a splash of whimsy.

Dolce & Gabbana

Marni

Prada

Oriental Tuch 東方文化成為各品牌的靈感 泉源,日式花園、神龍圖案、中 式長衫,配合現代感的色調及剪 裁,感覺煥然一新。 Eastern culture has become a source of inspiration for many brands. Whether it is a Japanesestyle garden, a dragon pattern, or Chinese cheongsam, when coupled Gucci

Fendi

Etro

with contemporary colours and cuts, the result was a refreshing look.

Fun Fur 秋冬季皮草再度出沒,為 了一減老氣形象,不少品牌推出 了彩色設計,大熱粉色拼貼、幾 何圖案、流蘇點綴之下,皮草頓 時變得young and fun。 Fur coats made their appearances again this AutumnWinter season. To make the look more youthful, many brands used colour designs. Adorned with a hot pastel collage, geometrical patterns and tassels, the fur coat instantly became young and fun. Versace

48

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

Salvatore Ferragamo

Blumarine


Key Trends Oversized Knit 冬意綿綿的針織衫新季愈大 愈精采,Sportmax針織大斗篷、 No 21單袖設計,或是Tod's針織 搭配皮裙的個性層次,絕對不是 你家中那件Christmas sweater。 The cosy winter knits have become big and spectacular this new season. Sportmax’s knit cloak, No 21’s single-sleeve design and Todi’s stylish and textured combination of knit top, plus leather No 21

Tod's

skist, were all a far cry from the

Sportmax

Christmas sweater in your closet.

Ultra Long Scarf 長頸巾能拉長線條,造型 瀟灑型格,Missoni的拖地款式 沒有女模身高的確難以駕馭; Roberto Cavalli那條絲絨圍巾 可能更合你心意。 Long scarves create long lines and a sleek, chic look. Missoni’s floor-length scarf seemed best suited to ladies that are as tall as the typical model. In contrast, the Roberto Cavalli velvet scarf seemed more widely appealing.

Roberto Cavalli

Missoni

Emporio Armani

Graphic Coat 誰說秋冬只有黑白灰,品牌們 便以鮮艷圖案照亮寒冬,下季必備 一件搶眼statement coat,不費吹 灰之力,已能搶盡風頭。 Who says you can only use black, white and grey in an AutumnWinter collection? Many brands used bright colours to light up the cold winter. Next season, you may also need an eye-catching Max Mara

MSGM

Emilio Pucci

statement coat, one which makes heads turn effortlessly.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

49


Fashion Headline

sTreeT sTyle and FronT row 米蘭天氣陰晴不定,但亦無阻一眾fashionista盛裝潮拜,說 到底能經受風雨洗禮的時裝,那才真正稱得上是時尚品味吧! The weather in Milan is fickle, but that did not deter the fashionistas from coming to the show dressed to the hilt. After all, only fashion that can withstand the elements is fit to be called contemporary fashion!

小S徐熙娣穿上fur trim低胸裙現身 Ferragamo會場。 “Little S”Dee Hsu showed up at the Ferragamo show in a furtrimmed, low-cut dress.

中國超模劉雯以全黑裝捧場看Fendi秋冬騷。 Chinese supermodel Liu Wen is dressed completely in black while watching Fendi’ s Autumn-Winter show.

Fun fur不止是天橋show piece,穿起 來一點也不覺誇張。 Fun fur is not only a show piece for the catwalk. It seemed to fit perfectly on the sidewalk, too.

外國女生對寒冷天氣是有免疫力 吧!10度穿短裙依然從容自在。 Perhaps girls overseas are immune to the cold? Even in 10°C weather, she seemed comfortable wearing a miniskirt.

張雨綺以星星褲搭配橫間褸,黑白基調一 洗昔日土味。 Zhang Yuqi matched starry pants with a horizontal-stripe coat. This basic blackand-white look is a nice deviation from her usually countrified style.

紐約著名DJ Leigh Lezark 。 The famous New York DJ Leigh Lezark.

印花睡衣襯camel色大褸,值得參考。 Matching a print fab ric pajama set with a long camel coat was a new look worth copying.

時裝周常客Anna Dello Russo 今次玩粉紅駁髮,難道是要走 K Pop路線? Fashion Week regular Anna Dello Russo sported pink extensions. Perhaps she was going the K Pop route? Gucci帶起的文青風席捲時裝圈。 Gucci leads the hipster trend in taking over the fashion world.

50

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Fashion Headline

亂世風流

Romance in Troubled Times

短短一年時間,Alessandro Michele的復古形象徹底攻陷時 裝迷的芳心,秋冬新季品牌華麗 升級,pop print皮草袖長衫、泡 泡袖羽毛雪紡長裙…比往季更為 着眼晚裝一環,同時又以條子短 襪、綴頭紗絨帽、珠飾搭帶鞋巧 妙襯搭,猶像愛古着的年輕女 生,不費力氣便能將舊物穿出現 代個性。

52

ELITEGEN

APR

GuccI Within a short year, Alessandro Michele’s retro style captured the hearts of fashion fans. Its AutumnWinter collection was even more luxurious. Pop print fur sleeve cheongsam, puffy sleeve feather chiffon maxi dress … the brand emphasized evening gowns more this season than in previous seasons. At the same time, using striped socks, velvet hats and beaded sandals as adornments, the brand effortlessly used older items to accentuate a contemporary style, just like a young woman who enjoys wearing vintage.

2016



Fashion Headline

FendI

浪花四濺

品牌特別安排從日本銀座空

54

Splashes All Over Fendi flew in the Fendirumi dolls from

運Fendirumi公仔坐前排睇騷,

Ginza, Japan to watch the show from the front

這鬼馬舉動正讓等待開騷的觀眾

row. This whimsical act led guests waiting for

們猜想,新季又會是怎樣別致有

the show to begin to imagine how chic and

趣呢?果然不出所料,系列以

interesting the new season would be. Not

Fendi Wave為主題,維多利亞式

surprisingly, the collection used Fendi Wave

ruffle領飾、波浪條子紋、漣漪般

as its theme. Victorian ruffle collar trim, wavy

的ruffle大褸,以至手袋鞋履上的

stripes, ripple-like ruffle coat, even the 3-D

立體飾邊,這一波浪潮正好掀起

decorative edge in the handbags and shoes, all

大家的好奇心。

produced a trendy wave that intrigued everyone.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


Prada 女權主義 從來覺得Miuccia Prada更像一

Feminist Power I have always thought that Miuccia Prada is like

位哲學家,新系列一如以往超脫潮流

a philosopher, and this new collection follows the

的框框,女模如像一名時尚遊牧過

usual ultra-trendy path. The models looked like trendy

客,運用腰封、水手帽、夏威夷恤、

wanderers, wearing girdles, sailor hats, Hawaiian

印花day dress、織錦裙、tartan襪子

shirts, print day dresses, quilted skirts and tartan

等遊走不同時代與地域,尋找最稱心

socks to explore different times and spaces. Further,

的女性風格。另外品牌再度邀請畫家

the brand partnered again with artist Christophe

Christophe Chemin合作,以不同月份

Chemin to express a woman’s soul by creating

命名的畫像拼湊出女性的心靈世界。

pictures named for the calendar months.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

55


Fashion Headline

dolce & Gabbana 童話國度 不認不認還須認,每個女生

Whether they acknowledge it or not, most women have,

從小都會想像過自己是童話裏的公

at some point, imagined themselves as a fairy-tale princess.

主,Dolce & Gabbana新季似乎是

Dolce & Gabbana’s new season served to satisfy this childhood

要滿足這份情意結。整個系列雖則

fantasy. The collection was not comprised of gorgeous ball

沒有華麗ball gown,但裙裝上綴有

gowns. Rather, it featured many dresses and skirts adorned

水晶燈、熊公仔圖案及閃亮流蘇細

with details, such as mini-chandeliers, teddy bears and shiny

節,依然能讓大家置身fantasy之

tassels that drew everyone into the fantasy world. The best

中。而女模穿上軍褸及西裝反串當

touch was to have female models wear army jackets and suit

起王子一角,更是妙筆之作。

jackets to play the part of the prince in the fairy tale.

GIorGIo armanI

黑絲誘惑

56

Fairy Tale Land

The Allure of Black Lace

開場show note以 「Black Velvet」 作

The open show note introduces “Black Velvet”, which led to the

序幕,令人原本期待着只有華美晚裝,

expectation of elegant eveningwear. But Maestro Armani introduced

但Armani大師卻給我們體驗到黑色絲

the allure of black velvet in daywear. Capri pants with nylons,

絨於daywear上的另一種魅力。吊腳絲

matched with a short wool jacket or water-colour prints, broke

絨西褲襯搭呢絨短外套或水彩印花,打

the silence of black. To create a posh evening look, he matched

破黑色沉默。Daywear褲裝搭上黑斗篷

qdaywear pants with a black cloak, completely in line with the

後變成氣場十足的evening look,絕對

casual and easy attitude that reflects the modern woman’s

切合現代女性的簡便穿着態度。

values.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Fashion Headline

moschIno 迷魂煙

Dizzying Smoke The first half of the show matched the leather biker look

前段以皮革biker look加上80年代 prom dress ruffle,只能說是品牌一

with ‘80s prom-dress ruffles, but it still can be considered

貫的把戲,然而後段卻是驚喜所在,

an old trick. The second half of the show was where the

先是capsule collection的香煙造型設

pleasant surprise was hidden. First, there was Capsule

計,繼而演變出燒焦又會噴煙的晚

Collection’s cigarette design, which turned into an evening

裝,配合女模的戲劇化步姿,Jeremy

gown that produced smoke. Jeremy Scott is an absolute

Scott真是懂得搞場大騷。

master of spectacular shows.

Versace

Sporty Biker

運動騎士 新季品牌充滿sport chic勁力,

58

The new Versace season is full of sporty chic. The striped

運動衣條子針織物配上biker皮褸及

knit sports shirt, matched with a leather biker jacket and boots,

booties,煥發年輕活力。螢光與粉

exuded a youthful energy. Fluorescent colours and pinks were

色系貫穿系列,配合organic冰川紋

found throughout the collection. Added to this were organic

路及簽名式Baroque圖案,再而綴上

glacier line and signature Baroque patterns, as well as sequins

珠片及刺繡,手工精湛。當然品牌的

and embroidery to show off superior handiwork. Of course,

性感基因依然猶在,不少開口剪裁及

Versace’s sexiness is still present. Many details, such as open

拉鏈細節,拉高拉低,自己話事。

cuts and zippers, add to the sexiness.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Fashion Headline

marnI 圓美和諧 Consuelo Castiglioni的作品不

Perfect Harmony Consuelo Castiglioni’s work needs no introduction, and

用故事背景解說,新系列強調物料與

the new collection emphasized material and form. Using the

形態,以和諧的圓形作主軸,如斗篷

harmonious circle as the core, such as the rounded edge of the

及半截裙的圓形底邊、燈籠闊袖、撞

cloak or the shirt, and adding wide lantern sleeves, big round

色大圓鈕飾及圓形珠片,沒有貼身剪

buttons in contrasting colours and round sequins, even without

裁,卻能勾劃出完美比例。

a close-fitting cut, the result is in perfect shape.

salVaTore FerraGamo

繽紛迷宮

Colourful Maze

會場七彩條子地板作預告,新

60

The show location’s colourful stripes were a precursor to

系列的確盡是刺激眼球之作,品牌

how the new collection would be a visually stimulating one.

利用強烈對比色調,配合格紋、zig

The brand used strongly contrasting colours and added plaid,

zag、條子等幾何圖案,還有三角飾

zig-zags, stripes and other geometric shapes. It also featured

邊、百褶peplum、對比色鈕扣、拉

details like triangular decorated edges, pleated peplum, buttons

鏈裝飾、綴皮草高踭鞋等精緻細節,

in contrasting colours, decorative zippers and heels decorated

豐富層次教人目不暇給。

with fur. The rich layers were totally satisfying to the eye.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


boTTeGa VeneTa 低調生活

Low-Key Lifestyle

主帥Tomas Maier認為設計不應

Creative Director Tomas Maier thinks the designer

是為表演,而是應該從用家角度考量

needs to consider wearability. Thus, the new collection

可穿度,所以新系列亦表現了一份低

has a low-key style and Veneta uses different patterned

調品味,以不同圖紋的針織品取代

knits to replace the signature woven leather, and he has

signature織皮,寬鬆剪裁加上長頸

elongated the lines by adding a long scarf and pointy-

巾及尖頭鞋,大大拉長線條。配飾上

toed shows to a loose cut. The main accessories were

主打小巧真皮手袋及綴有綠晶石的首

small leather purses and emerald jewelry, again aiming

飾,不招搖的貴氣更為耐看。

for an understated, enduring elegance.

Tod's

皮革藝術

開騷前品牌特別安排了一場由

Leather Art Before the show opened, the brand offered a performance

行為藝術家Vanessa Beecroft策劃的

directed by artist Vanessa Beecroft, in which expert artisans

表演,由資深工匠為女模們現場縫製

sewed leather clothing live. This gave the audience a direct

皮革裝,以最直接方法領會Made In

experience of what Made in Italy really meant. The new collection

Italy的真諦。新系列同樣表現出品牌

also showed off the brand’s superior leather skills. From a leather

製皮的上乘功力,biker皮褸、綴車線

biker jacket, to a leather trenchcoat decorated with machine

皮革trench coat、百褶皮裙,配合七

stitching, to a pleated leather skirt, the collection is full of the ‘70s

十年代的自由風尚,true luxury是也。

liberated style, as well as true luxury.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

61


Fashion Headline

emIlIo PuccI

雪山假期

Snow Mountain Vacation

Massimo Giorgetti接手品牌 後,個人風格愈見鮮明,沒有了 Peter Dundas的華麗性感晚裝,

longer does the brand display Peter Dundas’s elegant and sexy

取而代之是Giorgetti拿手的運動

evening wear. In its place is Giorgetti’s signature athletic style.

風格。新季從雪山吸取靈感,雪

The new season drew its inspiration from snowy mountains.

山印圖長身羽絨、cocoon衛衣襯

Down coats are adorned with snow mountain prints, while

搭bodysuit及窄腳褲,營造強烈對

cocoon-like pullovers are paired with bodysuit and skinny pants

比。系列同時追求着一份凌亂美,

— it’s all about contrasts. The collection also seemed to be

刻意弄皺的恤衫及絲絨上衣,突顯

aiming for a tousled look, with intentionally wrinkled shirts and

出activewear的生活氣息。

velvet tops, to accentuate the real-life feel of activewear.

anTePrIma

玫瑰人生

The Life of a Rose

品牌的show note中有一句令人格外深

62

Ever since Massimo Giorgetti took the helm of the brand, his personal style has become stronger and stronger over time. No

The show notes included the memorable line, “Always Jackie

刻 「Always Jackie O」 ,我猜新系列是要模仿

O.” My guess is that the new collection wants to imitate the

前總統夫人那份自然流露的高貴氣質吧!品

natural nobility of the former First Lady. Anteprima continues its

牌繼續以浪漫掛帥,以真絲、cashmere、

romantic style, using real silk, cashmere and chiffon to create

雪紡打造的流麗裙裝,穿插玫瑰花繪圖及金

flowing dresses. Adding to this are pictures of roses and metallic

屬色highlight,淡然優雅,愈看愈着迷。

highlights, creating a memerizing, understated elegance.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



Fashion News

Salvatore Ferragamo Graphic pointy-toe pump in calfskin $975 (ferragamo.com)

Nina Ricci mini 'Youkali cow' handbag $1,795 (farfetch.com/ca)

RuNNiNg ZebRa 動物紋理是設計師最常用的圖案之

Zebra stripes may not be as sexy as leopard spots, but the

一,斑馬紋的顏色分明,非黑即白,

black-and-white bands are winning the hearts of fashion

比豹紋少了幾分野性,卻多了點個性。

designers with their dramatic contrast and character. text | CircleKaitlin photo | Sing Ho

64

ELITEGEN

APR

2016



showcase

艷光四射

Transmission of LighT text & styling | Michelle Chow photo | Michael K. model | Yana K.@Style makeup | Kylie Chan hair | Nasaki Chu@The Luxe by Private i

關於光,有說是能量的一種傳播方 式,不需要透過任何介質直線運行, 直至遇上其他物質,方折射出更美麗 的光線。當應用在時裝上時,設計師 利用不同的透視物料,如喱士、雪 紡、透明硬紗等,配合光線,將女性 胴體的曲線美,表現得更淋漓盡致。 The magical property of light has captured the imagination of physicists for centuries. It travels in a straight line through a vacuum, but once it hits another medium, it will reflect or refract to form beautiful patterns of illumination. See how fashion designers play with light through the use of sheer materials -- like lace, chiffon and organza -- to accentuate female curves.

Feather and bead-embellished headband US$845 (net-a-porter.com) Black lace embellished dress

Both from Valentino

Gucci leather platform pump $1,130 (gucci.com)

66

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


Blue chiffon dress Navy and red tweed skirt Black and white earrings All from Prada Gucci leather platform pump $1,130 (gucci.com)

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

67


Showcase

Tiered frill lace dress $6,050 Lace up sandal $1,680 Both from Elie Saab and available at harrods.com Miu Miu white feather accessories

68

ELITEGEN

•

APR

•

2016

Salvatore Ferragamo pearl necklace


Chloé ruffled silk-chiffon mini dress US$3,995 (net-a-porter.com) White flower earrings Gold flower ring Both from Elie Saab

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

69


Showcase

Emporio Armani orange dress

70

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

Salvatore Ferragamo long thaiti pearl & crystal earrings US$230 (modaoperandi.com)


Elie Saab black lace dress Valentino dream catcher feather earrings $1,020 (matchesfashion.com) Gucci ring with stud and crystals $660 (gucci.com)

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

71


on runway

曾幾何時,hi-fashion跟street

High fashion and street fashion are rarely

fashion,河水不犯井水,分野

seen together in one style. However, the work

清晰。可是,近十幾廿年,在

of designers Helmut Lang, Raf Simons and

Helmut Lang、Raf Simons及

Riccardo Tisci over the past couple of decades

Riccardo Tisci等設計師默默耕

has brought about the gradual union of the two.

耘下,兩者愈來愈親近,男裝

No longer are men’s collections confined to the

天橋不只獨沽一味悶蛋西裝。

traditional suit and tie. This Spring-Summer

今年春夏,在Milan Vukmirovic

season will feature one of the best portrayals of

帶領下的Ports 1961,是今季

energetic street fashion — Milan Vukmirovic's

最具街頭氣息及活力的系列。

Port 1961 collection.

街頭混戰

Ports 1961

Street tangled Warfare 自從祖籍加拿大的品牌請來Milan

Ever since Canadian brand Ports 1961 appointed Vukmirovic

V.,似乎已明志上街。在他的頭炮系列,

as creative director of its menswear line, the intention was clear.

邀請Michael Lau製作一個高過姚明的巨型

In his first series, Vukmirovic invited Hong Kong artist Michael

figure,以及推出聯名產品,又悉心炮製

Lau to create a figure taller than basketball star Yao Ming, at the

了一個星星迷彩圖案,他的焦點,早已鎖

same time introducing their crossover products, and preparing a

定街頭,也令人更期待他第一場catwalk。

star camouflage pattern. His passionate focus on street style had everyone anticipating his first catwalk fashion show.

終於,時裝騷在佛羅倫斯河畔的 Piazza Ognissanti露天進行,名副其實是

At last, that show was held outdoors at Florence’s Piazza

一場街頭騷。在一片藍天白雲下,模特兒

Ognissanti. Under blue skies, models stepped out onto the plaza’s

踏上廣場的蜂巢形地磚出場,打頭陣造

honeycomb-shaped tiles. First up was an extended, cream-coloured

text | 冰汪

72

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


型是一件拉長了的米色棒球褸,下身是玩colour

baseball jacket with colour block long pants. That was followed by a colour block pea coat,

block的長褲,隨後上陣有colour block的pea

a M-65 military jacket and parka, clearly intended as a sequel to the Fall-Winter collection.

coat、M-65軍褸及parka jacket等等,明顯是秋冬

Judging from his design concept and skills, today’s Vukmirovic is braver and more mature

系列的延續篇。論設計概念及功力,今天的Milan

than he was while creative director for Trussardi 1911. He knows precisely what styles

V.,比過往在Trussardi 1911更大勇大熟,他很清

men are seeking and he designs accordingly, adding some of his own elements to make it

楚男人要甚麼,就單刀直入做他們喜歡的,然後

distinctive.

再一點一滴整色整水。 Eye-catching colours and multiple patterns highlight this fashion collection. Along the 系列的色水,不單純是顏色,還包括大量點

middle of the M-65 or parka jackets that have been popular for decades, he has stitched a

到即止的圖案,大家由細著到大的M-65,或者

strip of folk-styled pattern with flower-embroidered sides, giving this jacket an entirely new

parka jacket,他在外套中央,縫上一條民族圖

look.

案繡花邊,一條邊,成件褸唔同晒。這種處理, 極具日本街頭品牌的神髓,但由歐洲頂級廠房出

This method is similar to the essence of Japanese street styles. However, these clothes

品,效果超班,一招民族點綴軍事與運動服,已

are of high quality and come from Europe’s top factories. Almost half of the collection has

創作出接近半個系列。

been created, just by applying a bit of ethnic embellishment to military and athletic wear,

Colour block long baseball jacket $ TBD

Dusty pink parka with ethnic jacquard band $TBD

Colour block M-65 jacket with ethnic jacquard band $1,582 (eastdane.com)

Military green biker overall $TBD

Davy navy coat with ethnic jacquard band $TBD

Denim washed denim peacoat $TBD

Dusty pink sweater with ethnic jacquard band $1,021 (farfetch.com/ca)

#Follow me leather and nylon backpack $2,735 (farfetch.com/ca)

Multi-coloured star camo jacket $TBD

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

73


men fashion

縱然心裡再喜歡一個人,日日看著他 穿同一款白恤衫,始終都會有一日覺 得不再耀眼。所以今次的白恤衫,不 是衣櫃裡有超過十件一式一樣的正路 白恤衫,而是在領位、手袖、胸前、 口袋等各個細節上花過心思的白恤 衫,讓人擺脫白恤衫的沉悶公式,穿 出獨特個性。是白恤衫,讓你變耀眼。 Wearing the same white dress shirt every day is boring. Unlike the 10 standard white shirts you might have in your closet, today’s haberdasheries feature shirts with designs on the collar, sleeves and pockets. These refreshing designs bring out the uniqueness in a white shirt no one could have imagined only a few years ago.

白恤衫變奏

TransformaTion of the White Dress shirt text | Lisa photo | Jack assisted by Hin

74

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


04

06

08

01

02

09

03

05

01.Comme des Garçons Shirt $TBD / 02.Dior Homme $TBD / 03.Dior Homme $TBD/ 04.Agnes b. $350 (lyst.ca) / 05.Comme des Garçons Shirt $105 (endclothing.com) / 06.Prada $TBD / 07.Comme des Garçons Homme Plus $1,852 (farfetch.com) / 08.Dior Homme $TBD / 09.Burberry $1,050 (burberry.ca / 10.Balenciaga $TBD

07

10

Back in the Middle Ages, when the white shirt was first introduced, it was an undergarment and was worn with only the collar and sleeves exposed. It wasn’t until 1779, when Marie Antoinette wore a simple, loose-fitting, lace-trimmed white gown for the famous Chemise à la Reine portrait, that people took note and the white shirt evolved.

在中世紀已出現恤衫,但當時是男人的底衫,穿在層層衣服 之下,只露出領口及手袖。直到1779年法國瑪麗皇后在《Chemise

Today, white shirts are no longer ordinary. With designs on the

à la Reine》畫作中穿著白色花邊長衫,將近似底衫的長裙當面衫

collar, sleeves and chest pocket, the traditional white dress shirt has

穿,人們才開始仿效,將白恤衫穿在外層。

been elevated to a whole new level.

直至今日,白恤衫亦已變得不平凡,就算只是在領位、手

Undoubtedly, Comme des Garçons is the industry leader, applying

袖、胸前、口袋等細節上作出變化,已洗去白恤衫向來的悶局, 換來跳脫感覺。Comme des Garçons肯定是當中的表表者,將舞

deconstruction ideology to the ordinary white shirt. Comme des

台上的解構主義放諸平凡無奇的白恤衫,其Comme des Garçons

thing she could design, it would be the white shirt. Uneven cutting

Shirt系列一直是時裝人每季儲的目標,連川久保玲自己也曾說

holes-in-chest design, printed sleeves and open-cut pockets have

過,如果只可以發明一件衣服,她一定會重新發明白恤衫,而她

elevated its image.

Garçons founder Rei Kawakubo once said that if there was only one

確實做到了。無論是恤衫下襬的不規則剪裁、胸前穿窿的設計、 手袖上的切割印字、剪開恤衫口袋或在恤衫上併布印花等細節, 均打破了白恤衫呆板的既定印象。

Every brand is trying to transform the white shirt into a more refreshing piece. Burberry has utilized lace to add balminess to its ever-masculine style, and Dior Homme, especially famous for its

各個時裝品牌亦用盡方法為白恤衫增加新鮮感,例如

playboy image, has employed a diamond check pattern on the chest,

Burberry的喱士白恤衫,為向來是男人味象徵的恤衫加上一點

a camouflage pattern on the collar flip and a rose embroidery on the

柔,沒足夠自信及勇氣都駕馭不來。Dior Homme一貫的公子哥兒

sleeves.

形象少不了白恤衫,今季在胸前綴以菱格紋、將領位反摺露出裡 面的迷彩,或在手袖加上玫瑰刺繡等,低調細節保留了恤衫斯文

Prada uses this season’s trending rabbit print for its white shirts,

的大原則,穿上班去也不突兀。Prada將今季的重點兔仔印花鋪滿

radiating a young and refreshing look. Agnes b. continues its artistic

白恤衫,看來年輕活潑。Agnes b.延續其藝術風格,找來不同藝

chic by doing crossovers with various artists, bringing enthusiasm out

術家crossover,在恤衫畫上經典畫作,充滿文青氣質。

through classic artwork.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

75


Beauty News

近年因為環境污染影響下,肌膚都很容易出現敏 感問題。所以愈來愈多人愛挑選有機、純天然的 護膚品,來呵護肌膚。為了減低敏感情況,利用 純天然植物和花卉成份來研製的產品亦愈來愈 多,務求將天然配方注入肌膚之內,令肌膚在無 負擔的情況下得到高效的保護。 In recent years, environmental pollutants have led to increased skin allergy issues. Thus, more and more people are choosing organic, natural care products to pamper their skin. To prevent allergic or sensitivity reactions and to provide the highest level of protection, more and more products have been developed using only natural plant and floral ingredients.

天然惜膚

Natural SkiN text | 黃嘉恆 photo | 黃幹文 model | Kelsey (Primo) make up, hair | Jan Chan (Annie G)

76

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


星級化妝師Jan Chan Star Makeup Artist Jan Chan 又到轉季日子,經過寒冷 的冬季,肌膚都變得乾 燥、暗啞、無彈性。為了 加強皮膚的抵抗力,來對 抗氣候轉變。自己會特別 留意保濕問題,尤其是春 天最好選用保濕力強和滲 透力高的護膚品,好似 液體狀和啫喱狀的護膚 品就是最佳之選。因為這類型產品不容易堵 塞毛孔,且分子較細,容易被肌膚吸收。其 中Perfect Potion的玫瑰保濕面膜,內含藥蜀 葵、蘆薈及洋甘菊等天然萃取成份外,當中 亦混合了玫瑰花水,能有效滋潤缺水肌膚, 提升肌膚水潤度,並同時有效舒緩肌膚敏 感、泛紅問題,能為肌膚帶來豐盈滋潤感, 最重要是一年四季都合用! It’s time for a change of seasons again. During winter, skin often becomes dry, dull and inelastic, so it is very important to keep it moisturized. In spring, it is particularly helpful to choose a skincare product that keeps moisture in and can be absorbed easily. Liquid and gel moisturizers are great choices, because they do not easily clog up pores, and they are made of small molecules easily absorbed by the skin. Perfect Potion’s rose hydration mask contains marshmallow extract, aloe, chamomile and other natural ingredients mixed with rose water. It is most effective in hydrating thirsty skin. At the same time, it reduces sensitivity and redness in the skin, and brings a rich, moist feel to it. The best thing is that this product can be used all year around! Perfect Potion pure plant hydration mask $37 (perfectpotion.com.au)

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

77


Beauty News

APR

L’Occitane Immortelle Divine Cream $114 (loccitane.com)

Guerlain Orchidee Imperiale The Rich cream $510 (thebay.com)

功效: 特別針對紫外線及游離基兩大損害肌 膚的元兇來製成的精華日霜,加入了防曬成 份,為每天出外時做足準備。當中蘊含的蠟 菊精華油,則能抑制導致衰老的游離基,全 面抗氧化,令肌膚保持年輕。 Effect : This essential day cream is formulated to offset the skin-damaging effects of ultraviolet (UV) rays and free radicals. With an SPF rating of 20, the cream also helps protect again sunlight. The immortelle essence oil controls the oxidation effects of free radicals that cause aging, and keeps the skin youthful.

功效: 十周年限量版的御庭蘭花極緻全效修 護豐盈乳霜,以矜貴的蘭花成份及高技術來 調配,塗抹後除了令肌膚增加滋潤度和防禦 力外,亦有效提升肌膚質素,膚質明顯提升 起來。 Effect : The 10th-anniversary, limitededition Guerlain Orchidee Imperiale Rich Cream utilizes high tech to infuse the expensive orchid essence. Not only does the cream hydrate and protect the skin, it also improves skin quality.

雪絨 Edelweiss

玫瑰 Rose

水仙/百合Narcissus and Lilies

001 Rosa Damascena essence mist $92 (001skincare.com)

Origins Three Part Harmony nourishing cream for renewal, repair and radiance $85 (thebay.com)

Effect : Combining the essence of edelweiss, mallow extract and Dior’s trademarked Transparency Enhancing Complex, this seeps through the cells beneath the skin, and activates a brightening and whitening mechanism. T h i s , i n t u r n , re d u c e s d a r k s p o t s , brightens and evens out the skin.

ELITEGEN

蘭花 Orchid

Dior Diorsnow White Perfection anti-spot & transparency brightening serum $190 (sephora.com) 功效: 配合雪絨花精華、錦葵花精華及提昇 透亮複合物,讓強效的雪絨花複合物深入皮 下細胞,激活亮白機能,有效擊退黑斑同時 加強膚色亮度讓色澤更顯均勻。

78

蠟菊 Immortelle

2016

功效: 從超逾千朵幼嫩的大馬士革玫瑰蒸 餾出來的罕貴精油,特別適合修復成熟、脫 水、皮膚敏感,或發炎造成的紅腫不適。且 有效控制微絲血管擴張,可柔滑和提亮暗沉 和疲倦肌膚,其香氣更令人有喚發提神效 能。 Effect : Made from the rarest and most expensive essence extracted from over a thousand delicate Damascus roses, this product is perfect for repairing mature, dry and sensitive skin, or skin that is red and inflamed. Not only does the mist control the expansion of capillaries, and smoothen and brighten up tired skin, its fragrance also wakes up both body and spirit.

功效: 為了令肌膚喚發青春及能減淡幼紋和 皺紋,這滋潤面霜內含了水仙百合球莖、白 桃木、虎杖和乳木果油成份。在滋潤的同時 也可提升肌膚緊緻度,以及可修復欠缺亮澤 感的膚質,令肌膚更具透明感。 Effect : To make the skin younger and reduce fine lines and wrinkles, this moisturizing face cream contains lily bulbs, white peach wood, Japanese knotweed and shea butter. The product moisturizes and increases the elasticity of the skin, making it brighter and more translucent.


玫瑰 Rose Perfect Potion rose water $12/50ml $17/100ml (perfectpotion.com.au) 功效: 蘊含大馬士革玫瑰純露來研製而成的 有機玫瑰水,具高效的滋潤度,且能淨化及 調理缺水肌膚,無論上妝前或上妝後都可噴 上,最適合極乾燥肌膚人士選用。 Effect : This pure rose water from Damascus is extremely hydrating. In addition, it purifies and regulates skin that lacks moisture. You can spray it on before, or after, applying makeup. Rose water is best suited for individuals with dry skin.

玫瑰 Rose Eve Lom radiance lift cream $89 (available at Murale) 功效: 質地十分豐潤的緊膚面霜,以燕麥精 華、維他命C及保加利亞奧圖玫瑰精油來製 成,能打造細緻膚質外,也可抵禦外在氧化 壓力,令亮澤感可提升,肌膚加倍緊緻。若 塗上時配合簡單按摩動作,肌膚緊緻效果更 佳。 Effect : This rich cream has the effect of tightening the skin. Using oatmeal essence, vitamin C and Bulgarian rose otto essence, the product creates a fine skin texture. It also resists skin oxidation and improves the brightness, elasticity and softness of the skin. Apply using a simple massage action to improve skin elasticity.

Skin Saver 受廢氣、溫室效應和潮流影響下,

To combat the negative effects of exhaust fumes

人人都推崇簡約護膚概念。因此不少護

and other greenhouse emissions, a simple skin-care

膚品都注入了天然植物,盡量利用大自

regimen that incorporates natural plant ingredients

然的力量,為肌膚提供充足的滋養。加

for hydration has become popular. As well,

上每種花卉和植物的萃取物都具有不同

ingredients extracted from plants have other unique

的效能,能配合不同人士所需。

properties to suit the needs of different people.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

79


Beauty News

榛果 Argan Tree Kernels

山茶花 Camelia

薰衣草 Lavender

Josie Maran 100 percent pure argan oil $60 (sephora.com)

Tatcha camellia beauty oil $95 (tatcha.com)

Perfect Potion replenish fine tuning solution $35 (perfectpotion.com.au)

功效: 新鮮有機摩洛哥榛果含有豐富維他 命E和必需脂肪酸可有效保濕和滋潤肌膚; 同時修復、護理乾燥肌膚細胞之外,更適合 各種皮膚使用,還可以用於頭髮或者手部護 理。 Effect : Effect: The fresh Moroccan argan tree fruit is full of vitamin E and essential fatty acids. It effectively hydrates and moisturizes, as well as repairs and protects the cells of dry skin. It can be used on all types of skin, as well as on hair.

ELITEGEN

APR

Effect : This beauty oil is made of luxurious 24-karat gold flakes, camellia and squalene, and seals moisture inside the skin. The gold content adds to the skin’s brightness. This can be used all over the body, including the hair.

功效: 由奧圖玫瑰、薰衣草、乳香及廣藿香 等精油調配,可迅速為肌膚提供充足水份和 養份,更可收緊毛孔,及平衡面上不均勻膚 色等問題。 Effect : Using the essence from rose otto, lavender, frankincense and patchouli, this solution can rapidly replenish moisture and nutrients in the skin. It also shrinks pores and evens out the skin tone.

天竺葵 Geranium

葡萄籽 Grape Seed

杏脯 Apricot

Perfect Potion geranium moisturising emulsion $35 (perfectpotion.com.au)

Caudalie Premier Cru The Elixir $100 (sephora.com)

NUDE Skincare ProGenius treatment oil $97 (sephora.com)

功效: 天竺葵平衡保濕乳,除蘊含天竺葵成 份更有薰衣草和絲柏等精油,能平衡油脂分 泌的同時,也可有效淨化肌膚,令乾燥膚質 得以回復水潤,最適合冬天時選用。

功效: 99.5%天然成份再結合五種天然植物 油研製的逆轉全效精華油,內裏以半油半精 華結合而成,塗抹後可令肌膚迅速吸收。而 且只要一小滴已可修復疲倦肌膚,令膚質更 柔軟和具亮澤感,適合不同膚質人士選用。

功效: 利用10種可減退過敏紅腫、修復修護 和深層保濕的植物油包括杏脯油、白芒花籽 油、堅果油等含有豐富奧米茄3、6、7、9的 天然成分,特別為抗老肌膚需要製成,有效 於24小時內改善幼紋、撫平肌膚。

Effect : This all-powerful essential oil combines 99.5 per cent natural ingredients and five natural plants oils. Half oil and half essence, this product is quickly absorbed by the skin. Just one little drop is enough to revitalize tired skin, leading to greater softness and brightness. This is suitable for different skin types.

Effect : This product uses 10 different plant oils, including apricot, meadowfoam and nuts, to reduce redness and puffiness. These oils also contain rich omegas 3, 6, 7 and 9, which can improve the appearance of fine lines and smoothen out the skin within 24 hours of use.

Effect : Geranium balances and moisturizes. In addition to geranium, this emulsion contains essences of lavender and cypress. While balancing oil secretion, the emulsion also clears up the skin and restores moisture. It is best suited for winter.

80

功效: 由奢華的24K金箔、山茶花和角鯊烯 調製出來的美顏油,有效鎖緊肌膚水份之 外,由於內有金箔成份,塗抹後大大提升亮 澤感。而且除了適合塗抹在肌膚上,也適用 於頭髮和身體部位。

2016


Stay FreSh 肌膚容易流失水份,免疫力下降,加速自由基的產生,衍生出種種肌膚問題, 故要做到即時注入水份和提供滋潤度。近年不少女士都愛選用天然植物精油,因它 除有高度的滋潤效能外,不少精油都用上矜貴的花卉萃取成份,及有機配方來研 製。當中最受歡迎的玫瑰精油和薰衣草精油,更具強效的補水力,遇上乾燥天氣時 選用,能發揮出保濕功效外,內裏的成份亦可做到潤肌作用。故一到轉季日子,精 華油絕對是肌膚的最佳拍檔。 It is easy for one’s skin to lose moisture and immunity and, in turn, increase the production of free radicals, which leads to different skin problems. Thus, it is important to add moisture and hydration to the skin. In recent years, many have opted for natural plant essences, because

白芒花籽 Meadowfoam

they are highly effective in hydration. Serums

Fresh Crème Ancienne infusion toner $106 (sephora.com)

extracted from the essence of expensive

功效: 除了含有極具保濕成分的竹葉水、薰 衣草水和玫瑰水,另外為提高修護成分加入 白芒花籽油和含有豐富奧米茄3、6、7、9還 有具抗氧化成分的沙棘油。保濕和修護成分 結合,有效加強為肌膚注入水分和養分。

Rose essence and lavender essence are two

Effect : In addition to the hydrating power of bamboo water, lavender water and rose water, the toner also contains the restorative powers of meadowfoam oil and sea buckthorn oil, which is full of omegas 3, 6, 7 and 9, as well as protective anti-oxidants. The toner combines hydration and restoration, and adds moisture and nutrients to the skin.

flowers are developed using organic formulas. of the most popular and are wonderful for hydration. Used in dry weather, and especially during seasonal transitions, these ingredients are wonderful for increasing the skin’s moisture.

金盞花 Calendula Melvita Calendula oil $22 (melvita.com) 功效: 由多種有機精華油混合出來的有機 金盞花油,特別針對敏感及脆弱肌膚人士而 設,加上它具保濕、活膚和抵禦肌膚能力, 塗抹後具修護和消炎效能。加上它是100% 天然及不含人造色素,就算孕婦選用亦可。 Effect : Organic calendula oil is made by combining different essential oils and is most effective on sensitive and fragile skin. It has the ability to hydrate, revitalize and protect the skin, while reducing inflammation. With 100 per cent natural ingredients and no artificial colours, this product is particularly appropriate for pregnant women.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

81


Living 為配合托斯卡尼主題,後園栽 種了不少紅鳳仙花和海棠花。 In keeping with the Tuscan theme, the backyard is full of red impatiens and begonias.

後園的托斯卡尼悠閒風情

A Piece of TuscAny in the Backyard text | Zoe Mak photo | Tracy Granger

在上層庭院旁的大洗手盆 跟旁邊的鮮花,為後園注 入不少田園風情。 The big washing basin on the side of the upper patio as a farm-like feel to the backyard.

Origin 大屋本身為custom build度身設計,屋主希望 能夠在後花園興建泳池和利用植物增加隱私度。屋 主簡單的要求讓設計師有更大的發揮空間,只是後

sound simple enough, but there are two elements to

園有兩處地方為設計增添了不少難度。其一是屋主

the backyard that have added difficulty to the design.

收藏了幾部法拉利跑車,還特意為愛驅訂製有升降

First, the owner has collected several Ferraris,

機的地下停車場,不過停車場的頂部就外露於屋後

which are housed in a custom-designed underground

面,即後園的一部分,所以設計師要將這升高了的

garage — the top of which is exposed behind the

部分融入設計方案內;另一點就是後園面積不算

house and takes up part of the backyard. The other

大,設計既要配合升高了的地台還要加入泳池,因

restriction is that the backyard is simply small in size.

而增加了難度。

82

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

The owner of this custom-built home has decided to add a swimming pool to the backyard. That may


Feature 設計師表示比較喜歡有間隔的設計概念,

The designer has expressed his preference for

巧妙的將整個面積不算大的後園分成幾個區域

a segmented design, dividing the relatively small

或者「房間」,分別為上、下層庭院、草地和泳

backyard into several areas, or “rooms”, which include

池。每一個休憩區都善用了不同的植物和地上

an upper patio, a lower patio, a lawn and the sought-

的石塊設計清楚分隔開 。

after swimming pool. In each area, he has skilfully used different kinds of plants and different types of stones to

設計師表示整個項目最大的挑戰,就是將

clearly delineate the space.

地下停車場升高的部分加入美感和實用性。設 計師巧妙地利用這個限制加建了上層庭院,讓

To accentuate the room concept, the designer has

整個項目變得更有層次感。而庭院面向泳池和

added cedar posts in the upper garden, facing the

花園兩邊的位置更以杉木柱 (cedar post)和橫

swimming pool and on both sides of the garden. He

樑包圍著,除了突顯後園以「房間」為概念的設

has also added horizontal beams to surround the entire

計,更可增加私隱度。

upper garden. The backyard‘s other focal point in the custom-designed fireplace.

位於地下停車場頂部與後花園末端之間的 長方形泳池雖然看似普通,但無論位置、尺寸

The designer has skilfully utilized every inch of

和形狀都十分恰當,可見設計師除了配合屋主

space of this property in Maple, Ont., a 45-minute

的要求之外,還妥善的用盡了家裡內外的每一

drive north of downtown Toronto.. He says his biggest

寸空間。

challenge in the entire project was to incorporate aesthetics and practicality into the elevated portion of

此外後花園的另一焦點,是設計師特別訂

the underground garage.

造的大型火爐,不但為戶外空間帶來溫暖感, 更為後園注入托斯卡尼的意式風情。

He has deftly turned this limitation into the upper patio, bringing a sense of layering to the project. He has used plants as a natural outer wall and, with the oversized fireplace as a focal point, has brought a Tuscan flair to the project.

01• 後園面積不算大,設計師利用 簡單的遮蔭樹為後園增添隱私 度。 The backyard is not a big space, so the designer uses simple shade trees to add privacy. 02• 設計師充分利用黃楊木和石塊 的設計,將後花園劃分不同的 休憩區。旁邊有鐵欄的梯級可 通往地下停車場。 The designer utilizes boxwood and stones to delineate the different areas within the backyard. The stairs on the side with the iron bannisters lead to the underground garage.

Highlight 整個設計項目除了可以讓屋主和朋友開燒烤或者池邊派對外,後花園其實還可 長方形泳池面積為11’ -6”X 27',設計大小適中,旁邊 還栽種了杉木屏風來增添私隱度。 The rectangular swimming pool measures 11 feets 6 inche by 27 feets and fits perfectly into the backyard design. There is also a screen made with cedar to add to the privacy of the pool.

以化身為私人露天影院。在游泳池另一端的小屋(Cabana)裝有平面電視,無論跟家 人在泳池暢泳、與朋友開狂歡派對、又或是獨自於火爐前的長椅上休息時,都可以 隨時欣賞電影,絕對是全天候的私人露天影院。 由於後花園面積不算大,所以在選擇栽種的植物種類時,都偏向選擇較小型的 遮蔭樹(singular specimen shade tree)。設計師就選用了紅橡木(Red Oak)及黃楊 木 (Boxwood),同時採用了充滿托斯卡尼風格的陶藝花瓶,並還在大花盆中栽種了 大量紅鳳仙花 (Red Impatiens)和海棠花 (Begonias) ,令整個後園瀰漫一片意式異

Cost

國情調。 The cabana at one end of the swimming pool is equipped with a flat-screen television,

設計、人工、材料大約 $200,000。

allowing guests to lounge on chairs in front of the fireplace and watch a movie at the same

Design, labour and materials: around $200,000.

time. The entire garden is thus transformed into a private outdoor movie theatre.

Designer

chosen. The designer opted for red oak and boxwood, and placed Tuscan-style ceramic

Because of the small size of the backyard, small singular-specimen shade trees were vases as accents throughout.

Peter Owen of Owen Landscape Architect, Clarksburg, Ont.

To enhance the flavour of Tuscany, the designer has added generous amounts of red impatiens and begonias in large planters.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

83


Event

鍾太超卓的領導才華,令 「善之光籌款 晚宴」 空前成功。 Chung certainly did not disappoint, and the Time to Shine Gala was a huge success.

充滿愛心的慈善家

AlicE chung

Lady with a phiLanthropic heart

「善之光籌款晚宴」 籌委主席 Alice Chung。 Alice Chung, chairperson of the De Beers Time to Shine Gala.

由溫哥華綜合醫院暨卑詩大學醫院

The second De Beers Time to Shine

基金會主辦的第二屆De Beers 「善之

Gala, held in conjunction with the VGH

光籌款晚宴」,已於2月13日假溫哥

& UBC Hospital Foundation, once again

華Fairmont Pacific Rim酒店舉行,

brought glamour and brilliance to the

讓善心的光輝再次照亮了市中心。

city, at the Fairmont Pacific Rim Hotel.

text | Kenson Ho & Mel Tobias

84

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


01

02

03

這次盛宴亦是慈善家Alice Chung首次擔任籌 委主席的重要角色。在加拿大,她是Alive Health Centre的總裁兼首席執行官,不僅是溫哥華社交圈的 重要人物,更是積極參與慈善活動的社區領袖。為了 這次晚宴,她在百忙中仍親力親為,與同樣熱心公益 的籌委會成員進行各項籌備工作,讓晚宴得以圓滿舉 行。

The Feb. 13 event also marked the debut of Vancouver philanthropist Alice Chung as gala chair. President and CEO of the Alive Health Centre, a chain of 29 boutique health supplement and vitamin stores, she is well known in the city’s social scene and a community leader who has been actively involved in charity. Despite her busy work schedule, Chung effectively organized and managed the gala, with the help of her equally

雖然首次作為慈善活動籌委會的主席,但Alice Chung憑著超卓的領導才華,令籌款晚宴獲得空前成 功。當晚合共籌得超過一百七十一萬元,善款將會用 作為溫哥華綜合醫院興建複合式手術室之用。

As a first-timer in the world of fundraising events, Chung certainly did not disappoint. The gala was a huge success, raising more than $1.7 million for VGH’s first interventional hybrid operating room. EliteGen asked Chung how she got involved in the

《星尚》問及鍾太如何參與籌劃這 個盛宴,她充滿熱忱地說道:「溫哥

enthusiastic committee members.

04

華綜合醫院去年10月與我聯繫, 我們一起甄選能夠勝任籌委主 席這個重任的人選,最後他們 認為我是最適合的人選。今次 活動最重要的使命,是為緊急 的醫療需要籌募經費,由於我 一向樂於行善,於是欣然接受 了這個重任,並立即組成我的委 員會。我相信憑藉我的人脈網絡, 一定能得到熱心捐助者的支持。」

project, and she explained with enthusiasm. “VGH approached me last October and we reviewed the candidates for the prestigious position that were capable of running the show. In the end, they decided that I was the person for the job. “The noble mission is to raise money for a much-needed critical cause and, being a philanthropist by heart, I accepted the task and immediately formed my committee. I knew I could count on my good connections and be able to get donors.”

01•「善之光籌款晚宴」 優雅高貴的布置,色調以金、黑為主。 The elegant setting of the Time to Shine Gala, with gold and black serving as the theme colours. 02•當晚精彩節目之一,由Shannon Chung及Herbert Kwan表演。 Performer Shannon Chung, accompanied by Herbert Kwan, was one of the gala’s highlights.

The Malaysian - born philanthropist described that heading such a major event was a great learning experience. “I was able to manage time for my business and time for numerous

03•晚宴剛在情人節前夕舉行,所以這些絕美鮮花極為搶手。 The gala was held on the eve of Valentine's Day, so getting quality fresh flowers was a real challenge.

meetings for the gala. Everything went well and the guests commented

04•金光燦爛的桌面裝飾,正好配搭城中各俊男美女慈善家。 The glittering table-top decor is the perfect match for the glamourous philanthropists.

stage décor and table settings. I concentrated on the people with money,

that they appreciated the classy ambiance, the elegant floral arrangements, who I knew would contribute because they have good hearts. I also

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

85


Event

05

06

advocated for the elimination of the silent auction because I wanted the guests to socialize -- to get to know each other, to mix, to network -- instead 「善之光籌款晚宴」 籌款數字超出預期,籌得超過一百七十一萬元。 The Time to Shine Gala raised more than $1.7 million, wildly exceeding expectations.

鍾太形容這次參與籌辦籌款晚宴的經驗,為一個很好 的學習過程。 「雖然工作忙碌,但我仍能好好分配時間處理 各項籌備事宜及會議。晚宴當晚一切都進行得相當順利, 蒞臨此次活動的嘉賓均表示無論現場氣氛、花藝佈置、舞 台設計及餐桌擺設等,都令人留下深刻印象。而另一方 面,我集中與樂於助人、願意慷慨解囊的善長人翁聯繫。 我更提議取消無聲拍賣環節,因為我希望嘉賓們可以互相 交流、了解、融合、建立人際網絡、結識彼此,而不是忙 著查看無聲拍賣的結果。」

After immigrating to Canada, via Ireland and England, she earned undergraduate degrees in Psychology and Social Work from McMaster University in Hamilton. Being chair of a major fundraising event posed an excellent opportunity to exercise her skills. At the gala, she shared the following story of inspiration, which touched many guests. “Many years ago, a telethon was being held at a television station. At the back door, a homeless and dishevelled man asked one of the organizers what was going on. It was explained to the man that it was a charity fundraiser to

在馬來西亞出生的Alice,在移民加拿大前,曾居愛爾 蘭及英國。她曾接受高等教育,擁有兩個學位 – 社會工作 和在咸美頓麥馬士打大學獲取心理學學士。身為大型籌款 活動的主席,她的專長可大派用場。 在盛宴上,她與嘉賓分享了一個感人同時鼓舞人心的 故事。「多年前,在一個電視台舉辦的籌款活動進行中。在 後門那邊,一名露宿者向工作人員問道這是甚麼活動,他 們回應這是一個慈善籌款活動,以幫助有需要的人。幾分 鐘後,他從手推車中拿出了一個裝滿硬幣的瓶子,交給工 作人員作為他的捐贈,然後說他會再回來。一個小時後, 他攜著另一個罐子回來,這次的罐子裝滿了硬幣和紙幣。 他為慈善貢獻了他的所有。如果一名露宿者可以捐出他的 一切,那麼那些較富足的人,是否更應樂意捐贈。這是一 個給予和分享、不問回報的美好故事,很值得我們細想。」

08

of busily checking the silent auction.”

help the needy. “After a few minutes, he pulled a jar full of coins from his buggy and handed it to one of the volunteers as his donation, and then said that he would be back with more. An hour later, he came back with another jar, but this time the jar was full of coins, notes and dollar bills. He had given all that he had for charity. “If a homeless man can give all that he’s got, how about those with too much money to spare? It is a beautiful story about giving and sharing, without expecting anything in return. Think about it.”

由國際烹飪大師精心設 計的5道菜盛宴 5-Course Feast by International Culinary Masters

優雅華麗的盛宴上,一道道菜式為賓客帶來從容的 享受,這些都是由Fairmont Monte Carlo的行政總 廚Philippe Joannès及Fairmont Pacific Rim行政總廚 Nathan Brown的聯合創作。 The elegant and sumptuous feast was presented in a timely and unhurried manner. They were the joint creations of Philippe Joannès, executive chef of Fairmont Monte Carlo, and Nathan Brown, executive chef of Fairmont Pacific Rim. 09

07

05•法式香檳黑松露多寶魚 TURBOT 香檳酒慢炆,甜薯,碎削黑松露 Champagne Braised, Sweet Potato, Black Truffle 06•橘子巧克力甜品 TEXTURES OF CHOCOLATE & ORANGE 36% Caramelia - 血橙,50% Mangaro Lait – 甜橙, 66% Alpaco – 柑橘 36% Caramelia-Blood Orange, 50% Mangaro Lait-Mandarin, 66% Alpaco-Clementine 07•香烤櫻花牧場有機五花肉 SAKURA FARMS ORGANIC PORK 脆皮燒肉,香烤花椰菜,香煎葡萄,波爾特葡萄肉汁 Roasted Belly, Cauliflower, Seared Grapes, Port Wine Jus 08•精製香烤牛仔柳 PAN-ROASTED BEEF TENDERLOIN 芹菜根,黑喇叭菇,冬季蔬菜根,香熏洋蔥肉汁 Celeriac, Black Trumpets, Winter Roots, Smoked Onion Jus 09•意式龍蝦頭盤 LOBSTER 蔬菜球,香草油 Gazpacho, Vegetable, Pearls, Vanilla Oil

86

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


非凡拍賣組合,專為周遊列國的慈善家準備 Extraordinary Packages for Auction Catered to World Travellers 第三道菜後,開始了晚宴的高潮,由拍賣人主持競爭激烈的競投,讓慈善家慷 慨解囊,搶奪非凡拍賣組合,包括: There was an intermission after the third course, when the auctioneers started the excitement of the live auction of one-of-the-kind and extraordinary packages. They included:

法奇奧裡 (Fazioli) 意大利鋼琴藝術之旅 AN ARTISTIC FAZIOLI JOURNEY Showcase Pianos為欣賞鋼琴藝術的你特意安排了一個畢生難忘的旅程, 參觀位於意大利法奇奧裡的鋼琴製造工場,由保羅法奇奧裡親身介紹, 他是一位機械工程師及鋼琴家, 和客人展示他一手創立的法奇奧裡鋼琴製 造廠。另外,來賓更有機會於意大利欣賞在法奇奧裡演奏廳舉行的音樂 會。Showcase Pianos更會安排著名演奏家兼音樂老師Bogdan Dulu給中 標者私人授課兩小時, 併為您在其烈治文分店舉辦一場招待50人的個人演 奏會及派對。 (成功競投價:$8,000) You and your guests will meet and have a private, personal tour of the fabled Fazioli piano factory in Italy with founder Paolo Fazioli. To top it off, your group will attend a concert at the Fazioli Concert Hall in Sacile, 60 kilometres from Venice. When you are back in Vancouver, Showcase Pianos will provide the winner with a two-hour private lesson with performer and teacher Bogdan Dulu. Showcase Pianos will also host your next 50-person party with a private concert at the Showcase store in Richmond. (Auctioned price: $8,000)

在THE ROOM, HUDSON’ S BAY享受帝皇式的時裝體驗 SPEND A DAY AT THE ROOM, HUDSON’S BAY 這個項目對熱愛時尚的你是最佳選擇。The Room將精心為你安排私人時尚顧 問服務,給你介紹最新品牌,提供專業意見,確保你走在潮流的尖端。他們 還提供$10,000的購物禮券,讓你們盡情從各個世界著名品牌中細意挑選你的 至愛。 (成功競投價:$20,000) This package is for the avid fashionista! It’s a chance to have a private and exclusive shopping experience at The Room, Hudson’s Bay -- $10,000 for you to expand your wardrobe. The successful bidder could pick from a selection of the biggest designer and luxury runway brands, and be accompanied by a personal expert to help choose the right pieces to ensure the winner is trending for the coming season. (Auctioned price: $20,000)

一次無與倫比的旅程:成為香奈兒巴黎時裝展貴賓及探訪香 奈兒私人公館 EXPERIENCE CHANEL: PARIS FASHION WEEK AND TOUR COCO CHANEL’S PRIVATE APARTMENT 你們兩位將成為香奈兒溫哥華精品店的貴賓,由香奈兒溫哥 華精品店的執行長Gisa Straith 相伴出席世界上馳名的巴黎 時裝周。你更將穿梭時尚傳奇人物可可香奈兒在巴黎的傳奇 府邸。可在那個高貴的空間裏享受巴黎最美的景色之同時, 花費了大量的時間來進化她自己的想法。 (成功競投價: $19,000) The winner and a guest will be exclusive guests of Chanel’s Vancouver Boutique and accompany Boutique Director Gisa Straith to one of the world’s most famous fashion events, the coveted Paris Fashion Week. You will also be taken on an exclusive personal tour of Coco Chanel’s legendary apartment, the majestic space where Coco spent much of her time developing her ideas, while enjoying some of the best views of Paris. (Auctioned price: $19,000)

紐約之旅 - 擁有一個名貴的蛇皮包及度身訂製配襯的小手包 FLY AWAY TO NEW YORK WITH A LUXURIOUS PYTHON HANDBAG AND DESIGN YOUR OWN CUSTOM CLUTCH INSERT 與一位好友乘坐國泰航空豪華舒適的商務客位前往紐約, 開啟非凡的旅程體驗。抵埗後由專人陪同參觀著名女裝品 牌Proenza Schouler的紐約旗艦店,並度身訂製與你的PS1 蛇皮包配襯的小手包。在專人陪同下參觀Proenza Schouler 的紐約旗艦店,你還可與設計團隊一起創造和製造與你的 PS1蛇皮包配襯的小手包。 (成功競投價:$15,000) Travel in the luxurious comfort of the business-class cabin with two tickets on a Cathay Pacific Airways flight to New York City. Receive a private showroom tour of iconic New York womenswear and accessories brand Proenza Schouler and, with the assistance of its design team, design your own custom clutch to insert into your new python PS1 handbag. (Auctioned price: $15,000)

戴比爾斯 ARIA三連配珍藏系列 THE DE BEERS ARIA COLLECTION 由冠名贊助De Beers Diamond Jewellers捐贈的 Aria珍藏系列一套三件的精心設計,包括鑽戒、 鏈墜和鑽錶。De Beers Aria系列的三連配包括的 大顆吊墜擁有183顆碎鑽及0.7克拉圓形中心鑽 石。這個鏈墜共重1.8克拉。第二件是Aria系列鑽 戒,中心鑽石重0.7克拉,圍繞鑲製220顆碎鑽, 總重量為1.97克拉。最後是Aria系列腕錶,29毫 米的白色珍珠貝母全鋪面錶盤,圍繞總重2.06 克拉的91顆梯形切割閃亮鑽石。(成功競投價: $145,000) Take home three captivating works of art that celebrate the mystique and allure of diamonds, designed by title sponsor De Beers Diamond Jewellers. This trio includes the Aria Large Pendant, a pendant with 183 diamonds with a 0.7-carat round brilliant centre stone and a total weight of 1.8 carats. Second is the Aria Ring, featuring 220 diamonds which encircle the 0.7-carat centre diamond with a total weight of 1.97 carats. The look is complete with the delicate Aria 29-millimetre Full Pavé Watch, featuring a white mother-of-pearl dial and black leather strap. This watch has a total weight of 2.06 carats and has 91 radiating round brilliant and baguette diamonds surrounding the dial. (Auctioned price: $145,000)

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

87


Restaurant 大熱日系 – 秘魯美食

AncoRA WAteRfRont Dining AnD PAtio West Coast Cuisine With Peruvian-JaPanese Flavours

01

02

秘魯是南美洲一個充滿神秘色

Peru is a country with a fascinating

彩及豐富古文明歷史的國家。

and colourful history. It evokes

她令人聯想到亞馬遜森林、馬

visions of the Amazon rainforest and

丘比丘及前哥倫布時期的遺跡

Machu Picchu, along with a rich Inca

和文化寶藏。作為一個國家,

heritage. It is also a country that

她代表著幾個世紀以來,人類

represents centuries of people living

與大自然和諧共處的結果。

in harmony with nature.

03

01• Ancora採光度十足,整間餐廳都 充滿天然光,十分舒適。 The bright interior of Ancora is filled with all natural light.

04

02• 晚 飯前,可在酒吧品嘗餐前 酒。 You can always enjoy your aperitif before dinner at the Ancora Bar.

03• 天 氣和暖時,你可在露天座 位進餐,盡享優美海景。 On a warm day, you can always dine right by the waterfront.

text | Kenson Ho & Mel Tobias

88

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

05 04• 椰子蛋奶,配白巧克力醬,芒果珍珠和 百香果雪芭。 Coconut Custard, with white chocolate namelaka, mango pearls and passionfruit sorbet.


秘魯特式蟹沙拉。 Dungeness Crab Causa, a Peruvian specialty. hicha Morada是秘魯的飲品, C 內有浸泡紫玉米、香料和青檸。 Chicha Morada, the Peruvian drink with steeped purple corn, spices and lime.

International food critics have recently defined Peruvian fare as the emerging cuisine worldwide. There are many regions in Peru, each with its own exquisite dishes based on local traditions and ingredients. The country’s cuisine has also been influenced by immigrants from Japan, China, Spain and Italy. Towards the end of the 19th century, Nikkei fushion cuisine was born when Japanese immigrants arrived in Peru. VANCOUVER’S FIRST PERUVIAN-JAPANESE RESTAURANT Ancora (anchor) is the first Vancouver restaurant to fuse Peruvian and Japanese cuisine, while incorporating the bounty of the West Coast. The cuisine hinges on locally-sourced sustainable seafood and international ingredients. Ancora has created a menu that accommodates the varied tastes of Vancouver’s multicultural community by combining flavours that embrace these varied cultures in a modern, refined setting. 秘魯菜式以出類拔萃見稱,最近更獲國際飲食評論家推 舉為全球新興美食。秘魯的多個地區都各自有其傳統,他們

Ancora’s site is rich in Vancouver fine-dining history. It once housed C

擅於採用當地食材,創製別具風格的菜式。而來自日本、中

Restaurant, known for its upmarket seafood menu and elegant waterfront

國、非洲、西班牙和意大利的移民,亦為當地的飲食文化帶

ambiance.

來不少影響。19世紀末,當日本移民抵達秘魯後,Nikkei日 系菜式從此誕生。現時的秘魯美食,雖然加入了不同飲食文 化的風格,但仍保留著其傳統正宗。 溫哥華首家日系秘魯菜餐廳 Ancora(指錨)是溫哥華第一家主打日系秘魯菜的餐廳, 他們把兩種看似風馬牛不相及的菜系和諧地結合,更貼心地 加入了西海岸風味,迎合本地人口味。 餐廳的食材著重採用可持續的海產、本地新鮮食材及由國 外入口的材料,而菜式的創作靈感則源自溫哥華太平洋西北地 區的天然環境,糅合多元文化的飲食風格,相信能討得本地食 客的歡心。 05• 太 平洋鱈魚,配上獨特 的黑色海鮮飯。 Pacific Lingcod, with the most unique black paella.

06• 由廚師Yoshihiro Tabo主理的 魚生部門,當然少不了獨特的 壽司。 The special sushi creation of Yoshihiro Tabo.

06

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

89


Restaurant

秘魯特式的酸醃 帶子及鮮蝦。 Scallop and prawn ceviche, done Peruvian style.

08

09

10

11 13

12

When Viaggo Hospitality Group took it over, the restaurant was transformed into a venue reflecting a gentle, coastal feel with a serene and sophisticated style. The dining space was designed with soft modern lines that embrace the warmth and richness of the city’s waterfront landscape. In addition to an abundance of natural light, the Ancora餐廳的選址,前身是以高級海鮮美食及優雅海濱氛圍而

restaurant features beautiful lighting fixtures imported from Italy.

聞名的C Restaurant。當Viaggo Hospitality公司買下,將她改變為 寧靜優雅、極具西岸風情的Ancora。餐廳的室內設計,採用了柔和

THE TEAM BEHIND THE SUCCESS OF ANCORA

的現代線條,並用上別緻的意大利進口燈飾,室內採光度十足,更

RICARDO VALVERDE (Executive Chef)

坐擁寧逸閒適的水濱景觀,在這裡用餐絕對是一大享受。

Valverde is originally from Lima, Peru, a city with a rich seafood tradition. He brings more than a decade of progressive culinary experience

成功背後的團隊

to Ancora. He got his calling when he started working at a fish ‘n chips

Ancora的行政總廚Ricardo Valverde來自盛產海鮮的秘魯首都

shop in Vancouver’s Steveston Village, then went on to receive his culinary

利馬,入行十多年的他仍不斷鑽研及改進其烹飪技術,為Ancora創

education at the prestigious Dubrulle Culinary Institute of Canada where

出獨特美食。多年前,他在列治文史蒂夫斯頓村的炸魚和薯條店工

he studied French cooking. He then received a pastry and baking diploma.

作時,已深深愛上烹飪這個行業,及後他於加拿大著名的Dubrulle Culiniary Institute接受法國烹飪教育,並取得糕餅和麵包師文憑。

Valverde’s work experience is admirable -- from the Stanley Park Pavillion, Cin CIn Ristorante and Diva at the Met, to the renowned Blue

Valverde曾效力多間有名的餐廳,其中包括史丹利公園館、 推介菜式

Recommended dishes

Ceviche酸醃海鮮 – 食材包括帶子、鮮蝦及蔬菜 $19

Ceviche Mixto (mussels, scallops, prawns, squid) $19

Ancora 冰川Glacier – 不再是海鮮塔的海鮮大會

Ancora Glacier – contemporary seafood tower $72 (for two)

(二人用)$72

Nova Scotia Lobster Rissoto $23

諾華史高沙省龍蝦意大利飯 $23

Ling Cod (with paella, shrimp, squid, squid, chorizo, vegetables)

太平洋鱈魚與西班牙海鮮飯 $32

$32

紅燒牛柳扒及炆短肋骨 $39

Grilled Beef Tenderloin and Braised Short Rib $39

秘魯馳名飲品Chicha Libre或Chicha Morada

Chicha Libre and Chicha Morada is a refreshing Peruvian drink

(內有浸泡紫玉米,香料和青檸 – 可含或不含酒精)

90

Water Café as chef de cuisine/executive sous chef. At Ancora, he has

(purple corn, spice, lime-with or without alcohol)

08• Ancora的餐酒選擇令人有驚喜,就連盛酒器亦別樹一格。 The wine collection at Ancora is most impressive, including their unique decanter.

10• Glacier裏有白灼大蝦。 Poached prawns in Ancora Glacier.

12• Ancora的現代燈飾裝置。 The contemporary lighting fixture at Ancora.

09• Ancora Glacier是經過改良的現代版海鮮塔。 Ancora Glacier is their contemporary version of the Seafood Tower.

11• 新鮮的生蠔配魚子醬。 The freshest oysters with caviar.

13• Ancora的巧克力甜品,配冧酒啫厘,鹹焦糖 及焦糖冰淇淋。 Ancora’s chocolate bar, with rum gel, salted caramel, caramel ice cream.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


酸醃 。

he, an

Cin Cin Ristorante、Diva at the Met、更曾於著名的Blue Water Café出任主廚/副行政總廚。他亦為Ancora注入動力,帶領她成為

breathed new life into the restaurant and transformed it into one of the best seafood establishments in Vancouver.

溫哥華首屈一指的海鮮餐廳之一。 When asked what he would suggest our EliteGen readers order, he 當問及他會推薦那些菜式給《星尚》讀者時,他說:「首先是

said: “For a start, ceviche, Peru’s national dish, and I highly recommend

秘魯的國菜Ceviche酸醃海鮮,在秘魯多個地區都有他們自己的

our ceviche (Lima style). There are many regions in Peru and they have

版本,不過我強烈推薦我們的利馬風格。一定要品嘗的是冰川

their own version. Highly recommended is the Glacier, our own version

Glacier,我們自己的海鮮塔版本。我們的擺設有別於傳統,因為

of the seafood tower. Our presentation is different because it does not

她不是一層層的,這樣就不會障礙了客人互相交談的視線。其他

have layers that block the guests from talking to each other. It’s modern,

美食還包括壽司和刺身、西班牙青口和鮮蠔。我們的招牌菜是鱈

contemporary and includes sushi and sashimi, mussels with escabèche

魚和銀鱈魚,亦可以試試配上魚子醬的牛肉。」

and oysters. Our signature dishes are ling cod and sablefish, and you can have your beef with beluga caviar.”

佳餚美酒帶來歡樂 Ancora的總經理及餐酒總監Andrea Vescovi出生於意大利羅 馬,自幼已深知佳餚美酒為餐桌帶來無限樂趣。他的飲食職業生

ANDERA VESCOVI (General Manager / Wine Director) Born in Rome, Vescovi realized at an early age that food and wine

涯一直充滿色彩。他曾在溫哥華和威士拿幾家高級餐廳工作並平 步青雲,最後在Blue Water Café工作了14年,餐廳多年來獲獎無

bring joy and goodwill to any dinner table. After climbing the culinary

數,他絕對是功臣之一。

worked at Blue Water Café + Raw Bar for 14 years where he played an

ranks at several fine dining restaurants in Vancouver and Whistler, he integral role in guiding the restaurant to numerous International awards.

「完美的尊貴用膳體驗,必須同時具備優質美食、佳釀和殷勤 款待 。我為Ancora設計的酒單雖然較短,但質素卻相當高,而且

“Good quality food, wine and hospitality must all merge to enhance

較小的酒單列表,能讓客人易於閱讀並選擇心頭好。酒單以價值

dining,” Vescovi told EliteGen. “The wine list I created for Ancora is shorter,

及名聲作分類,附有簡短適當的描述。酒單範圍從合理價格的優

but the quality is high. A smaller list allows customers to navigate faster. It

質葡萄酒,以至全店最貴,售價$5,288的95年拉菲(Lafite)都有提

ranges from a reasonably-priced quality wine to the most expensive ‘95

供,各適其適。」 Vescovi熱烈地說 。

Lafite, priced at $ 5,288. We have something for everyone.”

當被問及對溫哥華高級餐廳前景的看法,Vescovi說:「高級

When asked about the future of fine dining in Vancouver, Vescovi

餐廳已經在溫哥華重生。本地人和遊客都經常在外進餐,對美食

said: “The culinary landscape in Vancouver keeps growing stronger and

需求越大,令本地出現越來越多不同種類的美食,良性競爭會令

more passionate. We have also noted the increase of Asian customers,

大家更進步。我們還注意到亞洲客人日益增加,我們的客人五成

and 50 per cent of our clients are Chinese.”

是中國人。」 他補充說。

General Manager/ Wine Director 總經理/餐酒總監 Andrea Vescovi

Pastry Chef 甜品廚師 Amy Lee

Raw Food Chef 魚生師傅 Yoshihiro Tabo

Executive Chef 行政總廚 Ricardo Velverde

Ancora成功背後的其他重要人士,包括Yoshihiro Tabo (魚生師傅)、Amy Lee(甜品廚師)、Matt Cooke(酒吧經理)和 Tara Thom(餐廳董事)。 The other important people behind the success of Ancora include Yoshihiro Tabo (Raw Food Chef), Amy Lee (Pastry Chef), Matt Cooke (Bar Manager) and Tara Thom (Restaurant 14 14• Ancora Glacier 包括了溫哥華人深愛的刺身。 Ancora Glacier consists of Vancouverite’s favourite sashimi.

Director).

Ancora Waterfront Dining and Patio 地址 Address:1600 Howe Street, Vancouver, BC, 604-681-1164, ancoradining.com 營業時間 Hours: dining room, 5 p.m.-11 p.m.; bar, 3 p.m.-midnight (closed Mondays)

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

91


Taste

La Créole於餐廳範圍設有表演台,這裏的壁畫是著名智利畫家Maurizio Garsis的傑作,其餘藝術作品多以黃昏島嶼風光為主題。 La Créole’s rear dining room features a stage and artwork with evening island scenes. The mural is by Chilean artist Maurizio Garsis.

多倫多加勒比美食巡禮

TORONTO’S CARIBBEAN RETREAT 要在多倫多感受加勒比風情,除了透過每年夏天均會舉

When it comes to great-tasting Caribbean

行,節拍強勁、熱力動感迫人的加勒比大巡遊的年度盛

flavours, there’s no need to leave the

事外,只要曉得門路,平常日子同樣可以享受到地道加

comforts of Toronto, thanks to a number of

勒比風味的眾多美食。

restaurants.

雖然多倫多沒有加勒比海地區那麼燦爛的陽光,又或是給藍天白雲

Don’t despair if a trip to the wave-washed shores of the

映襯得格外迷人的綿延沙灘,但由於茁壯的西印度裔社區,依然為城中

Caribbean isn’t in your immediate future. Toronto is blessed

帶來熱情澎湃、殷勤接待遊人的氣氛。每年夏天舉行的加勒比嘉年華大

with a healthy West Indian community and its celebrated

巡遊便是最佳例子。數以百萬計的遊客湧至多倫多,在舉行巡遊的那個

sun-soaked hospitality. Every summer, Toronto’s Caribbean

周末,夾道觀看陣容鼎盛、穿著奪目亮麗彩衣的表演者隨著強烈拍子舞

Carnival, and its signature Caribana weekend, draws more

動身體,吶喊歡呼,被看和看的同樣盡情投入;餘興節目也多不勝數:

than a million tourists to the city. Filled with energetic parades

表演、音樂會、派對接踵而來的繽紛節目,交織成令人毫不覺倦的不夜

and performances, music, parties and stunning costumes,

城。

participants strut and dance through the night, while feasting on an array of Caribbean delicacies. 在為期長達3星期的加勒比海節舉行期間,讓人難忘的不僅是精彩娛

樂項目,城中好幾家由來自加勒比海地區大廚主理的餐廳食肆,提供多

While it’s hard to compete against the sun, sand and coastal

種特色美食,便如畫龍點睛,為整個加勒比海節帶來完美的組曲。

beauty of the Caribbean islands, and it might still be awhile until the city next hosts the three-week-long summer celebration,

即使暫時未能親自到加勒比海國家旅行,置身處地的被當地燦爛陽

the following Toronto restaurants will satisfy palates hungering

光、給藍天白雲映襯得格外迷人的沙灘洗禮,飽嚐當地美食,然而只要

for those distinct island flavours and cool, relaxed vibe. No

懂得門徑,一樣可以吃到地道風味的加勒比菜式,還無需出動護照呢﹗

passport required.

text | Renée S. Suen 孫詩敏 photo | Renée S. Suen 孫詩敏, David Rosendorf (Rasta Pasta), WindUp Restaurant

92

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


法式風味加勒比菜La Créole

Polished French Caribbean The focus is on Creole, French Caribbean and Haitian-influenced flavours at La Créole

Créole是指在美國路易斯安那州出生的法 國後裔,而位於St. Claire West的La Créole,

on St. Clair Avenue West. Here, chef Magda Louis-Jean’s made-to-order specialties

正是要品嚐法式風味的加勒比及海地菜式的不

include the share-friendly ti plats (appetizers), which could include an assortment of fritay

二之選。主廚Magda Louis-Jean精心烹製的

(fried street food), like crispy tasso (beef) and savoury marinad (fried dough). Served with

多款菜式,比方是可大夥兒分享的小食併盤ti

spicy pikliz, (spicy pickled shredded cabbage) and watercress dip, these flavourful bites

plats,當中有油炸街頭小吃fritay、脆口的牛

are made using the same imported and halal ingredients found throughout the seasonally

肉tasso、如炸圈餅的鹹味小吃marinad,伴以

changing menu.

微辣的醃泡椰菜絲pikliz和西洋菜沾醬。菜單 隨著季節更替,所用食材均從外地入口或是清

Owners Ben Cherette and Paterson Louis-Jean have created a lively atmosphere in

真食品。

a relaxed, gauze-draped room. Linger late on Friday and Saturday nights for live kompa, zouk, creole jazz and troubadour performances, while feasting on a substantial gwoplat

東主Ben Cherette和Paterson Louis-

(entree) like the popular pwason (fried snapper), served in a secret in-house secret creole

J ea n 以薄 紗 點綴 佈 置餐 廳 ,營 造 出充 滿 活

sauce, or the guava-slicked quail.

力,讓人鬆弛的氣氛。在周五和周六這些可以 多加逗留的晚上,聽著現場演奏的kompa、

The bar carries a handful of wines and beers, but it’s the signature cocktails, like the

zouk、creole爵士音樂,欣賞遊唱詩人的精

kremas (coconut cream, rum, and spices) served on the rocks, and the non-alcoholic

彩表演,再從選擇眾多菜單中揀選喜歡的主

signatures that will resonate with those feeling nostalgic. You might feel the same after

菜 gwoplat,當中又以炸紅鯛魚配特製醬汁的

finishing your meal with a sip of te jenjanm (ginger tea), kafe ayisiyen (traditional Haitian

pwason,以及番石榴鵪鶉最受歡迎。

coffee), or Malta creole (carbonated malt beverage) served ak let (with milk).

這裏的酒吧雖然也有供應多款不同酒類 和啤酒,但最值得一試的還是其招牌雞尾酒, 比方是以椰奶、rum酒、香料和冰塊混成的 kremas;當中也有不含酒精成分的飲品,同 樣充滿加勒比的獨特風味。習慣餐後喝一杯咖 啡或熱茶的話,呷一口薑茶tejenjanm、傳統 海地咖啡kafeayisiyen、有汽的麥味飲品Malta creole或加奶的ak let。 LA CRÉOLE 810 St. Clair Ave W., 416.651.8228, lacreole.ca/ 營業時間 hours:Tue-Thu & Sun, 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Fri-Sat, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. 主菜價錢 mains:$13-23.

02

03

04

05

01

01•Ti plats是餐前小吃,當中有油炸鱈魚餡餅akramorue、脆口的牛肉tasso、 如炸圈餅的鹹味小吃marinad,伴以由香脆炸大青蕉為主要材料的 tostones 和海地傳統醃菜pikliz,好吃得叫人難以停口。 Ti plats might include akra morue (codfish fritters), marinad (savory dough) and tasso (crispy beef), served with addictive tostones (crispy green plantains) and pikliz. 02•La Créole的餐單也會提供時令菜式,例如是充滿番石榴香味的鮮嫩鵪鶉, 配以番薯和烤雜菜作伴碟。 La Créole’s seasonal offerings might include the guava quail that’s sided by sweet potatoes and grilled vegetables.

03•Louis-Jean's每日餐湯通常是以雞肉、雲吞和大蕉炮製。傳統法式風味 creole版本的餐湯周末才供應。 Louis-Jean’s soupe du jour might feature chicken with dumplings and plantains. Traditional creole versions are available on the weekend. 04•La Créole沙律的材料包括各式新鮮蔬菜、番茄和棕櫚心,再拌以芒果陳年 葡萄醋混和醬汁。 Salad La Créole is a mix of greens, tomatoes and heart of palm, tossed in a mango balsamic vinaigrette. 05•傳統口味的牛油rum酒蛋糕,分量適中。 Sample a piece of La Créole’s gato la créole (traditional butter rum cake).

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

93


Taste

大眾化價錢Rasta Pasta 先「味」奪人絕對是形容Rasta Pasta的最

Cheap and Cheerful Few sights are more welcomed than seeing co-owner Magnus Patterson standing

佳寫照,即使還未走近Kensington Market,

guard of the tiny storefront’s entrance with his battalion of pimento wood charcoal-licked

已經嗅到陣陣以多香果木炭燒烤雞腿的誘人香

jerk chicken legs.

味。當見到東主之一的Magnus Patterson站在 窄小的店門前,氣定神閒,滿有章法的在圓鼓 型燒烤爐上燒製充滿牙買加風味的燒雞腿,己

Kensington Market’s best-kept (not so) secret can be detected blocks away, thanks to the intoxicating aroma emanating from the Jamaican takeout gem’s drum charcoal grill.

教人垂涎三尺,難怪令這小店高踞Kensington Market外賣龍虎榜的前列位置。

Chopped to order, the supple flesh sports a proud and smoky scotch bonnet-infused caramel cloak. It sits proudly over a bed of pea-studded Jamaican rice, blanketed by jerk

以木炭燒炙的雞腿,即叫即燒,充滿蘇

sauce and sided by cooked mixed vegetables, or cooling coleslaw.

格蘭圓帽辣椒和焦糖香味,肉質鮮嫩多汁,外 層的雞皮焦香四溢,放到混有豆粒的牙買加飯

There’s also slow-cooked oxtail, a mild and tender goat curry, creamy ackee and

上,再淋以特製燒汁,伴以煮雜菜或涼拌椰菜

saltfish. As the place’s name suggests, there’s also pasta, to which you can add the

絲,令人大飽口福。

famed jerk chicken. Trust us: the only regret you’ll feel is not ordering more for the road.

主打的烤雞腿以外,還有慢煮牛尾、咖喱 羊肉、以牙買加盛產的ackee阿開木果烹調的 鹽醃鱈魚、以及可配搭著名燒雞的麵條……相 信我,你不會對這裏的菜式失望,只會後悔沒

東主之一的Magnus Patterson是 Rasta Pasta的燒烤掌舵人。 Co-owner Magnus Patterson mans the grill at Rasta Pasta.

有買走更多外賣。

只需$5便可以在Rasta Pasta買到簡單的烤 雞午餐便當,除了馳名的烤雞腿,還有牙買 加飯、菜或酸椰菜。 For $5, a simple jerk chicken lunch from Rasta Pasta includes a chopped chicken leg served on Jamaican rice, with vegetables or coleslaw.

RASTA PASTA 61 Kensington Ave., 647.501.4505 營業時間 hours:Tue-Sat, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sun, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. 主菜價錢 mains:$6-10.

加勒比海新派美食 第一眼看過去,只覺在College夾Borden

Canadian-Caribbean on College At first glance, the street-side patio is the most defining characteristic of this long and

的WindUp露天餐室甚有性格,卻稍嫌室內環

unassuming corner space at College and Borden. However, what the relatively barren

境相對略欠氣氛,但只要試過他們充滿創意的

room lacks in ambiance, it makes up for in flavour with its non-traditional menu.

餐單,卻不期然改觀,印象分大加。 At WindUp Restaurant, Barque alumni Whitney Knowles and chef Bryan Birch serve 主理WindUp餐廳的是曾經在Barque共事

Caribbean-inspired cuisine (by way of Jamaica and Trinidad) with a distinct Toronto

的Whitney Knowles和廚師Bryan Birch。他倆

spin -- from oxtail benedict for brunch, to Trini Doubles with duck. Their tribute to the

把多倫多的口味融入加勒比海地區牙買加和千

city’s fascination with tacos is a pair of palm-sized roti, piled high with curried goat and

里達兩國的特色美食中。由在早午餐中找到的

pumpkin, pickled mango and cilantro sauce. Jamaica’s national dish is reimagined as

牛尾配水波蛋至千里達雙層煎餅配鴨肉,掌心

finger-friendly salt cod fritters that wade with custardy ackee and preserved lemon in a

大小的酥餅上放咖喱羊肉、醃芒果絲和芫茜

thick pool of bacon foam.

碎。又將牙買加最具代表性的炸咸味鱈魚球改 良為手指般大小,放到以阿開木、醃檸檬和煙 肉碎末的濃稠醬汁中。

While small, the cocktail list features such classics as the whimsically named Wesley & the Sea, a boozy and spicy dark and storm, while the light and fruity rum punch is sweetened with citrus, pineapple and grenadine.

雞尾酒酒譜選擇簡而精,名稱天馬行空的 「Wesley & the Sea」 便是由酒味較淡和富果香的 rum酒加入檸檬、菠蘿和石榴汁糖漿組合而成。

But it’s the mouthwatering smoked jerked chicken that will impress the pickiest of eaters. The half bird is served over loose and aromatic coconut rice, with tangy sesame slaw and unctuous kidney bean puree in two ways: lacquered leg and thigh that have a

最挑剔的食客,也會讚賞這裏的煙煄燒

stewed quality, and supple sliced breast meat that’s magical like smooth terrine.

雞。在椰香撲鼻的飯粒、綿密的紅腰豆茸和芝 麻椰菜絲上鋪有半隻雞分量的燒雞,嫩滑豐潤 的雞胸和焦香惹味的雞腿,同時得享兩種不同 美味。

94

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

WINDUP RESTAURANT 382 College St., 647.349.6373, winduprestaurant.ca/ 營業時間 hours:Tue-Thu, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5 p.m.-10 p.m; Fri, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5 p.m.-11 p.m.; Sat, 10 a.m.-3 p.m., 5 p.m.-11 p.m. 主菜價錢 mains:$18-23(Prix fixe menus available for groups of four or more/設有4人或以上的特價套餐)

WindUp將軟熟的咖喱羊肉放到酥餅 上,配以南瓜茸、醃芒果絲和芫茜碎。 WindUp’s open-faced curried goat roti finds the braised meat mingling with squash puree, pickled mango and cilantro, stacked on top of a round of flaky flatbread.


餅 。

01 Rhum Corner的開放式廚房和存放大 量rum酒的吧台部分,展示由Jean創 作的壁畫,以及由Black Hoof的客居 藝術家Virgil所作的Baron Samedi粉 筆畫。 Rhum Corner’s warm and lively space features an open kitchen and rum-stocked bar, with murals by Jean and a commissioned chalk drawing of Baron Samedi by Black Hoof server/resident artist Virgil.

魅力醉人Rhum Corner 海地人一般都可操流利法語,很多都因

02

Lively and Charming While Haitian expats have settled predominantly in Montreal (due to their fluency in

此選滿地可作落戶加拿大的地方。幸好也有人

French), there is a segment that calls Toronto home. Despite the representation, few

選擇以多倫多為家,亦由於此,我們才可以在

outside the Haitian community were able to access the delicious flavours (that draws

Rhum Corner品嚐法國和西非洲美食。

from French and West African cooking) until Rhum Corner opened.

Rhum Corner的開始也充滿浪漫色彩:本

The story is romantic. What started out as a corner watering hole, Cocktail Bar, where

來是女仕們消閒淺酌共聚的地方,之後東主之

co-owner Roland Jean spun tunes from his iPod and mixed rum and cokes for friends,

一的Roland Jean在這裏邊以他的iPod播放音

has emerge a vibrant space accented with marquee signs and eye-catching original

樂,邊為朋友調校rum和墨西哥可樂混合而成

artwork.

的雞尾酒,逐漸成為受歡迎餐廳,招牌帳篷內 陳設不少精彩原創藝術品。

Along with wife/restaurateur Jen Agg, the duo has introduced Torontonians to cheap, flavourful takes on traditional Haitian cuisine. The approachable menu is split between

餐廳另一合伙人Jen Agg和Jean是夫妻

snacks, including accra and salt cod patties, and more substantial plates, such as

檔,兩人攜手將價廉物味美的海地美食帶到多

snapper and shrimp, or legumes and goat that come with rice, tostones and picklese

倫多。價錢合理的菜單主要是小吃如芋頭製成

(spicy cabbage slaw).

的油炸小點accra、鹹味鱈魚餡餅;以及紅鯛 魚和蝦,豆莢羊肉伴飯配香脆炸大青蕉和辣味 醃椰菜絲等主菜。

Those familiar with Agg and Cocktail Bar’s David Greig, will be pleased with the tight rum-based cocktail list that includes everything from pina colada slushies and daiquiris on tap, to Rolly’s Rum Corner (a DIY bucket of rum and Mexican coke). For purists, the

Agg和負責酒吧的酒保David Greig是

well-stocked bar includes a collection of more than 40 bottles of rum.

Rhum Corner的靈魂人物,從色澤深沉、類似 製冰沙器材的龍頭中傾出一杯杯rum酒為主、 令人喝得醺醺然的Pina Colada和daiquiris兩 款雞尾酒,而在Rolly's Rum Corner,則讓客 人以rum酒和墨西哥可樂自行調校合口味的雞 尾酒。喜歡淨飲rum酒的話,酒櫃中也收藏著 超過40瓶rum酒。 05 RHUM CORNER 926 Dundas St. W., 647.346.9356, http://rhumcorner.com/. 營業時間 hours:Thu-Sat, 6 p.m-2 a.m.; Sun-Wed, 6 p.m.-1 a.m. Cash and debit only. No reservations taken. 主菜價錢 mains:$14-28.

04

05

01• 02•在Rhum Corner內面餐廳的壁畫是店東之一Jean的原裝作品,以Jean母親當年在酒店負責廚房 工作時,在哪裏釀製著名的Barbancourt 太子港rum酒為創作靈感。 The original piece by Jean in Rhum Corner’s rear dining room was inspired by a mural depicting the process of making Barbancourt rum that was in a hotel where Jean’s mother ran the kitchen. 03•在Rhum Bar可以吃到以焦糖製過的大蕉伴dulce de leche醬和椰子雪糕。 Rhum Bar features caramelized plantains with dulce de leche and coconut ice cream. 04•海地美食愛以苦味橙和美極醬汁來調味,Rhum Corner的豆莢羊肉便用上這兩種代表性調味品。 Haitian cuisine incorporates seasonings, such as bitter orange and Maggie sauce — both of which are found in comfort-driven dishes, such as Rhum Corner’s legumes with goat. 05•Rolly的Rum Corner有過百種rum酒選擇,當中包括著名的Barbancourt rum酒 Rolly’s Rum Corner with Fixins’, features Barbancourt rum.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

95


Wine not 別以為香檳與紅、白葡萄一樣,都以 每年收成釀造一個vintage,然後再逐 年評論好與壞;也別誤會,香檳當然 也講究vintage,講得可以比紅、白葡 萄酒更義無反顧……用上「義無反顧」 並非為嘩眾取寵,而是香檳莊若認為 那年的收成不夠好,他們可以決定完 全不推出該年的年份香檳,相反生 產紅、白酒的酒莊便大多數沒有這種 「特權」 了。 Don’t think of champagne in the same way as red and white wines, which are classified into “vintages,” based on the harvest year of the grapes. While vintage is certainly important for champagnes – sometimes more so than for red and white wines – it is not an obligatory factor. This is because if a champagne vineyard determines that a particular harvest is inferior, it won’t produce a champagne from that vintage at all. By contrast, vineyards that produce red and white wines usually do not enjoy this luxury.

香檳,講年份

Champagnes The ImporTance of “Year” text | Ivan Wong

96

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


我們在一般派對喝的brut香檳,是non-vintage沒年份香檳,

2002年份香檳時,鑑賞家們已一致認定2002是上佳的香檳世紀年

香檳就是有這種「特權」可以採用不同年份去混合、調配,這幾乎

份,媲美1988、1995及1996。只有順序邏輯的你可能會質疑:

是每家香檳莊的看家本領,就像今天的各大干邑家族,視這調配

Krug往年不就推出了2003 vintage嗎?香檳年份是有自己的時序

本領為藝術,干邑酒莊最重要的製酒人物不是釀酒師,而是調配

邏輯的,且讓Eric Lebel簡單解釋一下:「我們酒窖中醞釀陳存的

師(他們常被尊稱為大師),香檳莊的也不叫釀酒師,而是Cellar

香檳,於何時達至最完美的面世狀態,是往往超出我們所能預料

Master或Chef de Cave,而今期要說的就是Krug的Cellar Master

的,那只能由大自然去決定,我們只是聽從大自然的指示……我

Eric Lebel。

們亦不會刻意做些甚麼,只是不斷去品試,酒質會告訴我們何時 是最佳時刻。」在酒窖中靜待13年,Krug 2002終達至最精煉的狀

香檳,講年份,Krug更是年份的倡導者,他們要把年份昇

態,呈現既清新又醇厚的果香,及只有陳舊香檳才可能擁有的可

華,認為non-vintage這名字不合何車,強調應把它正名為multi-

可豆及烤麵包的獨特香味。2016年只過了數十天,不少人已認定

vintage,說 「沒年份」 完全是低貶,稱 「多年份」 才適合他們一絲不苟 的製酒情操。Krug每年推出的 「多年份」 香檳Grande Cuvée都會公

是 個很壞的年份(從經濟角度看),但我們卻遇上Krug這個最佳

報其調配年份,2016年最新推出的Grande Cuvée便採用了萬眾

年份,在最壞的年份喝最好的香檳,點點滴滴會否盡在心頭 呢!

期待的2002 vintage,還有同被視為世紀年份的1988,你說若用

Eric Lebel 認為 魚類或海鮮都是 Krug 2002的絕配。

上「沒年份」這三個字,又怎對得住那些世紀年份呢!對,是萬眾 最少期待了4年的Krug 2002年份香檳,終於隆重登場了!Krug

Lebel considers fish or seafood to be the best matches for the Krug 2002.

算是名莊之中最遲推出2002的,早在4年前其他名莊推出這個 不是所有年份香檳都能與南瓜為 伴的,但Krug 2002就絕對可以。 Surprisingly, this vintage is also a fine accompaniment to, of all things, pumpkin. Go figure.

Most of the Champagne aficionados have been

champagne we taste

awaiting Krug’s 2002 vintage for a number of

at parties is of this non-

years. Krug was the last of the famous vineyards to

vintage variety. Champagne does have the privilege of combining grapes from different years. This

release its 2002 vintage. Four years ago, when the other vineyards

kind of mixing demonstrates the skills of each champagne vineyard. Just

released their 2002 vintage champagnes, connoisseurs all agreed that

like today’s great cognac families, they view this mixing skill as an art.

2002 is the top vintage of this century, and compares favourably with the 1995, 1996 and 1998 vintages.

The most important person in the production process at a cognac vineyard is not the winemaker, but the blender (usually called the

So those who follow chronological logic may wonder: Didn’t

“master blender” out of respect). The winemaker at a champagne

Krug release the 2003 vintage last year? Actually the champagne

vineyard also has a different title — Cellar Master or Chef de Cave. In

vintage follows its own logical order. Lebel has a simple explanation:

this article, we will focus on Krug Cellar Master Eric Lebel.

“The champagne brewing in our cellar frequently exceeds what we can predict as to when it will be at its top shape to be released.

Krug is an advocate of vintages. Not only that, but the vineyard

This is something that is determined by Mother Nature and we

has taken it a step further. It has an aversion to the term “non-vintage,”

can only follow the directions of Mother Nature. We will not do

preferring “multi-vintage.”

anything deliberate, but will just keep tasting and let the quality of the champagne tell us when the best time is.”

“Non-vintage sounds like a denigration, while multi-vintage is most appropriate, given our impeccable high standards of production,” says Lebel.

After waiting quietly in the cellar for 13 years, Krug 2002 finally is at its finest, showing a fresh and pure fruit fragrance, as well as the

Krug releases its multi-vintage Grande Cuvée every year and always identifies the vintage years used. The Grande Cuvée that Krug

unique cocoa bean and baked bread aroma that is only found in aged champagnes

released this year used the long-awaited 2002 vintage and the equally renowned vintage of 1988.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

97


Elite Life 現時度假酒店的規模愈來愈大,有的客房數

Holiday resorts are getting bigger and bigger, with

目多達數千間 (Atlantis Paradise Island酒店

thousands of rooms (3,414 at Atlantis Paradise

便有3,414間客房) ,酒店內的餐廳亦為數不

Island!) and more on-site eating establishments

少(Cancun Moon Palace酒店內便設有17間

(17 restaurants and bars at Cancun Moon Palace!)

餐廳及酒吧),住上一星期都未必可以全部試

than you can try in a week. However, discerning

勻。不過對一眾識玩的旅客來說,規模大未

vacationers are bucking the trend, seeking

必最吸引,他們更追求個人的貼心體驗。

destinations offering a more personal experience.

上山下海 玩轉荷屬西印度沙巴島

SMALL ISLAND, BIG FUN Saba, Dutch WeSt InDIeS

text | Leslie Yip photo | Saba Divers, Saba Tourism Development Foundation, Jobean Glass Art, Stefan Krasowski and Leslie Yip

98

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


沙巴島面積雖小,活動卻多籮籮,由行山、潛水以 至工藝等各適其式,更可品嚐高檔fine-dining。 Saba Island may be small in size, but there won’t be dull moments, as you can choose from many activities -- from diving to hiking, fine-dining to arts and crafts.

沙巴島民對道路及地方的命名可謂簡單直接,好像島上唯一的道路 就直接名為「The Road」,而島上位於迎風一邊的村落就索性名為 「Windwardside」 (意謂向風的一面) ,其首府因為位於山谷的底部,猜 猜名字叫什麼……沒錯,就是 「The Bottom」 。 Sabans have a practical way of naming things. The island’s only road is called The Road. The village on the windward side of the island is called Windwardside. Its capital, nestled at the bottom of a valley, is called – you guessed it – the Bottom.

像薑餅屋一樣的小屋、原始自然的園林景緻及上親 切友善的島民,令這個如童話故事書中才會出現的 村落,更讓人神往。 Gingerbread houses, pristine gardens and friendly people add to the charm of the storybook villages.

如果你外遊的目的是想真正的遠離城市的喧鬧,沙 巴島(Saba Island)絕對是不錯的選擇。沙巴島又名The Rock,這個荷蘭屬加勒比海小島無論在面積及人口數字方 面都十分「的骰」。小島人口不到2,000人,面積亦只有13 平方公里,還不及六分一個香港島。 島上酒店亦十分「袖珍」,最大的酒店亦只有15間客 房,不過客房一般非常寬敞,大部分更附設游泳池及露 台,讓客人盡情飽覽島上風景。 由於沙巴島細,因而沒有吸引到大財團、大企業在當 地落戶,這裡沒有倒模式連鎖快餐店或咖啡店,但換來的 是多姿多彩的活動,無論你想上山 (登山) 、下海(潛水), 或是屬於好靜一族 (上堂學新東西),這個零污染的小島肯 定會為你帶來不一樣的體驗。 If your idea of a getaway is, literally, to get away from the crowds, Saba Island is for you. Known as The Rock, this Dutch Caribbean island is diminutive, both in geographical size and population. At 13 square kilometres, it is one-sixth the size of Hong Kong Island, with less than 2,000 inhabitants. The hotels are dainty, too. While their rooms are usually spacious and feature scenic balconies, the largest one on the island has only 15 rooms. Their wee size may deter big chains from setting up cookie-cutter fast-food or coffee joints, but is that not a good thing if your goal is to “get away”? Whether you wish to go diving, take a walk or enroll in a class, the Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean, as Saba has come to be known, has a lot to offer.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

99


Elite Life

環繞沙巴島的水域均被定 為沙巴海洋國家公園 (Saba National Marine Park),這 裡可找到超過150種魚類, 因此政府有嚴格規則以保護 珊瑚礁及其他海洋生物。 The waters around Saba are designated as the Saba National Marine Park, with strict government regulations to preserve the coral reefs and other marine life. More than 150 species of fish thrive here.

下海篇 – 潛水

Take a dive…

潛水的世界中,即使感覺有多良好,亦只能向人表示「OK」。 這是我在專為新手而設的潛水課程PADI Discovery Scuba

When it comes to diving, it is just OK, even if it is really good. This is one of the first things I learned in my PADI Discovery Scuba

Diving course中,其中最先學到的知識。由於潛水員在水中無法

Diving course. Since divers cannot talk underwater, they needed to

開口說話,因此他們設計了一段通用的手勢用作溝通。如果要表

develop standardized hand gestures for communication. When things

達一切良好,就要用OK手勢;而在Facebook代表like的豎起大拇

are great, use the OK sign. The thumbs-up gesture, now synonymous

指手勢,在水中則表示你要上水,通常是出現狀況如不夠氧氣,

with Facebook “Likes”, means you need to go up to the surface --

或感到不適等。

usually when something is wrong. Perhaps you are running out of air, or you are not feeling well.

另一樣學到的就是Bruce Willis Ruins All Films (意謂:布斯 韋利斯拖垮所有電影) 。當然我們無意詆毀這前《虎膽龍威》(Die

Another thing I learned is Bruce Willis Ruins All Films. No offence

Hard)影星,這只是提醒潛水員在下水前檢查裝備的口訣。B代表

to the former Die Hard star. It is simply a mnemonic for your pre-dive

檢查浮力控制裝置 (buoyancy control device) 、W代表配重、R代

gear check. B is for the buoyancy control device (BCD), W for weights,

表快卸扣、A是氣瓶空氣,而F則是整體最後總檢。

R for release clips, A for air and F for a final check.

雖然我自問泳術不差,亦

As an absolute beginner,

曾玩過浮潛 (snorkelling),但一

the idea of diving filled me with

直以來都提不起勁去學潛水。

trepidation. I consider myself a

那為什麼此時、此地讓我鼓氣

good swimmer and have done

勇氣呢?

a fair bit of snorkelling, but I had always bailed when it came to

沙巴島的水域由1987起

diving. So why now? Why here?

被定為海洋國家公園,政府嚴 格嚴禁污染和捕穫野生生物。 他們為保衛自然生態所作出的

have been designated as a

努力令珊瑚礁及各種海洋生物

national marine park since 1987,

被受到保護,而且因為水流

and that means strict regulations

平靜,能見度極之高,讓你

against pollution and poaching.

更能欣賞美麗的海底世界。不

This conservation effort has

過令我決定放膽一試的決定性

protected the coral reefs and

因素,是沙巴島的海水十分和

diverse marine life, while the

暖,冬天的水溫約26° C,而夏 天則約28° C。誰要在冰冷的海 水中潛水?!

100

The waters encircling Saba

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

OK手勢代表一切安好,而豎起拇指則表示你感到不適需要上水。 The OK gesture is used to indicate when things are great. The thumbs-up sign usually means you are in distress and need to surface.

calm waters allow for incredible visibility. But for me, the most reassuring factor is that the


我這個「處女下海」的大日子先由理論課開始。導師是德裔美人Meinke Winhold,據說她 未學行已經能夠游泳。當了解過各種潛水工具的操作方法及其物理特性後,我們轉移陣地到港 口進行練習。幸好我有留心上課,知道當找不到呼吸器,或眼罩入水時的應對方法,結果我人 生中首個潛水考試成功過關。

下一站…投奔大海 接著,我們登上專門接載潛水員出海的Big Blue,向著沙巴島29個潛水據點之一的 Torrents Point進發。潛入水中不到10分鐘,就見到兩條貌相可愛的河豚在我身邊迅速游過。 未幾,還發現一隻玳瑁(hawkbill turtle)好像牛一樣津津有味地吃著海草!導師Meinke向我展示 ok手勢,示意我可以靠向玳瑁一點。我興奮得忍不住咧嘴而笑,弄得海水從嘴角兩邊滲入呢 。 興奮事陸續有來,我們還見到一座巨形的海麋角珊瑚 (elkhorn corals) 。有說龍蝦最愛在 它們周圍棲身,如果可以親手活捉龍蝦做晚餐就好了。等一等,別忘了我們正身處受規管的海 洋國家公園水域,嚴禁騷擾野生生物 -- 眼看手勿動啊! water is warm. The water temperature ranges between 26°C in the winter and 28°C in the summer. Who wants to dive in cold water? My big day started with a theory session with Meinke Winhold, a German beauty who learned to swim before she learned to walk. After learning the physics and the workings of my gear, we proceeded to the harbour for a practice session. Satisfied that I knew what to do if I lost my respirator, or my goggles filled with sea water, she gave me a pass on my first diving test.

Next up, the open sea. We boarded the “Big Blue”, a specially adapted dive boat, and headed towards Torrents Point, one of Saba’s 29 unique diving sites. Less than 10 minutes into our

沙巴島國旗下面是潛水員下潛旗,提醒附近 船隻減速及不要駛近潛水船。 The diver-down flag flying below the Saban colours warns passing boats to reduce speed and steer clear of the diving boat.

dive, two puffer fish scuttered by. Soon after, I spotted my first hawksbill turtle, munching on seaweed like a cow grazes on grass. Winhold gave me the OK to swim towards it, and I could feel water seeping into the corners of my mouth as I broke into a big smile. This feeling of elation came again when we spotted a giant stand of elkhorn corals, which are known as lobster magnets. Wouldn’t it be cool to catch your own lobster for dinner? Well, we were in regulated marine park waters, where disturbing wildlife is strictly prohibited. Hands off!

位於Wells Bay的Torrent Point是沙巴島 29個特色潛水據點的其中之一,我在 這裡第一次嘗試出海潛水,更與玳瑁 (hawkbill turtle)有近距離接觸。 Close encounter of the hawksbill turtle kind, on my first open-sea dive at Torrent Point in Wells Bay.

Saba Divers 國際認可潛水入門證書課程(PADI-Certified Discover Scuba Diving program)費用$149起,包括理論講解、在海 港進行訓練及一次有教練同行出海潛水體驗。亦提供認可潛水員(Open Water Diver (OWD))課程及其他深造課 程。詳情瀏覽sabadivers.com。 The PADI Discovery Scuba Diving program starts at $149. That includes theory, practising in the harbour and one guided open-water dive. Open Water Diver (OWD) and other advanced diving programs are also offered. sabadivers.com

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

101


Elite Life

上山篇 – 登山 如果你較喜歡「腳踏實地」,不妨跟沙巴島上赫赫有 名有名的Crocodile James一同登山。他曾經徒手活捉鱷 魚,因而得此綽號,絕對是真人版 「鱷魚先生」。不過更令 他引以為傲的,似乎是其海盜第八代後人這個身份。 我參加了在早上舉行的草藥導賞行。他邊行邊介紹 早期的居民如何使用島上的植物作為天然藥物。不說不 知,原來腰果樹(cashew tree)的樹皮可以紓緩腹瀉,而 把buck root樹根浸泡於酒中竟會有催情作用呢! 接著我們去到Flatpoint的Tide Pools,看看這裡與眾 不同的火山岩海岸線。5,000年前,Mount Scenery火山 爆發,溶岩如泉湧,並噴發大量石塊。當高溫的溶岩流入 海面,即時令海水變得沸騰上湧,直至到了高處才降溫並 凝固,從而形成這非比尋常的地形。 Crocodile James正介 紹長壽花( Leaf of Life) 的藥用價值包括治療 感染及紓緩胃灼熱 (heartburn) 。 Crocodile James explains the medicinal uses of the Leaf of Life, known to heal infections and alleviate heartburn.

Take a walk… For those who prefer a more land-based experience, take a walk with Saba’s own Crocodile James. He got this moniker after reputedly capturing a crocodile with his bare hands, à la Crocodile Dundee. However, he seems to take more pride in being an eighth-generation descendent of a pirate. I joined him on a morning medicinal plant walk, where he demonstrated how early settlers used native plants as natural remedies. Who knew the bark of cashew trees can alleviate diarrhea, while steeping buck root in alcohol can be used as an aphrodisiac? Then, he took me to the Tide Pools at Flatpoint. This unusual shoreline was formed 5,000 years ago when the volcanic Mount Scenery erupted, spilling lava and spewing rocks. When the hot lava reached the sea, it sizzled and boiled up, only to solidify in mid-air. The result is an unearthly landscape. 由James“Crocodile”Johnson帶隊的兩小時導賞行逢星期三及五 舉行,收費每位$20,包往返交通。可於下榻酒店的旅客中心報 名。詳細可瀏覽sabatourism.com。 Two-hour guided hikes with James “Crocodile” Johnson are available Wednesdays and Fridays. The cost: $20 per person, transportation included. Sign up at your hotel, or at the Tourism Office. sabatourism.com

102

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

驟眼一看,以為這是火星上發現的水,其實這是由凝 固火山溶岩形成tide pools,地勢確實非比尋常。 Water on Mars? Solidified lava surrounds these tidal pools, giving it an unearthly appearance.


靜態篇 – 興趣班

Or take a class…

上完山,下過海,是時候停下來,順

If you are in need of an indoor respite, why

道發掘一項新嗜好。

not learn a new hobby at the same time?

學製玻璃如何? 導師Jobean Chambers

Jobean Chambers can teach you how to

可教你製作一條獨一無二的玻璃珠頸鏈。第

make your own glass bead necklace. Start by

一個步驟是先把玻璃棒的前端加熱,直至變

heating the tip of a glass rod until it starts to drip

成軟身,像會滴下的封蠟一般。然後以覆蓋 上陶泥的金屬棒抓著軟身的玻璃,慢慢地轉 動令其變成對稱的球狀。接著讓它降溫再重 複上述步驟。當掌握了基本技巧,你會可以 進一步學習如何加入顏色及鑲嵌入金屬。有 恆心學習的話,只消一個下午已經可以完成

like sealing wax. Catch the molten glass with a 這個琉璃美人魚是Jobean其中一個招牌作品。 她的作品曾於世界多地多個藝術館展覽,包括 美國Corning琉璃博物館。

clay-coated metal wand, steadily turning it so

The glass mermaid is one of Jobean’s signature pieces. Her work is represented in many international art galleries, including the Corning Museum Shop.

then repeat the process. Once you grasp the

專屬於你的耳環及頸鏈套裝。 如果你有耐性又有一雙巧手,不妨學習製作沙巴喱

the glob becomes a symmetrical ball. Let it cool, fundamentals, you can advance to colour-fusing and metallic inlays. If you are diligent, you can

make your own necklace and earrings set in just one afternoon. For those who have patience and a steady hand, consider taking a class

士。沙巴喱士又名Spanish work,在沙巴島的歷史上有著

in making Saba lace. Also known as Spanish work, it has a special place in

特別的地位。

the history of Saba.

據說於19世紀中期,一名沙巴女孩在委內瑞拉一所修

It is said that in the mid-19th century, a Saban girl learned how to hand-

道院學校中學習以人手製作喱士。當她回國之後,便把這

stitch lace at a convent school in Venezuela, and when she returned, she

門手藝教授予島上婦女。當男士們出海時,女士們便埋首

taught the women on the island. While the men were out at sea, the women

製作喱士,漸漸更發展出商機,不少外地人都以郵購方式

worked on the lace, which they slowly built into a thriving mail-order business.

買入當地出產的喱士。不過時至今日,喱士製作在當地已

Today it is a dying art -- hanging by a thread (pardon the pun).

是夕陽手藝,逐漸失傳。 I spoke to Marjorie Hassell, who learned lacemaking as a child and 我跟喱士藝術家Marjorie Hassell談過,她自小開始學

has been selling her handiwork and teaching classes at the island’s Artisan

習製作喱士,自1975年起已開始出售其作品,並於島上的

Foundation since 1975. She showed me how to do the dice and wheel

藝術家基金會授課。她為我示範如何製作方形(dice)及輪形

patterns. One single repeat takes 14 stitches!

(wheel)圖案,單是一小格圖案已經要編14針。Marjorie解 釋這是一種慢藝術,工序需要較長,就以她最暢銷的產品

Hassell explained that it is a slow art and that one of her bestsellers -- an

- 18 x 18平方吋用來包裹麵包的bun-warmer為例,需時一

18-by-18-inch bun warmer -- takes a full week to complete. They sell for

星期才能完成一幅,但每幅只售$50美元,說實在的人工

US$50 apiece, which doesn’t even cover the value of her labour! I think I

也沒有賺到。我想我還是買一幅她的作品好過自己動手做。

would rather just buy a piece from her, than make one myself.

島上的藝術家基金會是一所合作社,在這裡可以找到本 土產品,如沙巴喱士、調味rum酒及印花布料。

沙巴喱士是島上最受歡迎的紀 念品。

The Artisan Foundation is a co-operative where you can find local products, including Saba lace, spiced rum and screen-printed fabrics.

Saba lace is one of the island’s most popular souvenirs.

Jobean悉心教導如何燒製玻璃珠。 Jobean looks on as I try my hand at heating the glass rods. Jobean Glass Art 半日課程及全日課程的費用分別為$95及$150,包材料及工具。需事先預約,詳情可瀏覽. jobean-glass.com。 Half-day classes are US$95 and full-day sessions are US$150. All materials and supplies are included. By appointment only. jobean-glass.com

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

103


Elite Life

實用資料

皇室享受 – Queen’ s Garden 座落於海拔365米高的Troy Hill上,Queen’ s Gardens

酒店每一層樓就是一間套房,套房數目共12 間,大部分均設有私人按摩浴池。 Each of the 12 suites occupies a complete floor, and most come with a private Jacuzzi.

Resort坐擁無敵海景,亦可眺望四周的熱帶雨林。度假酒 店的主人經常到印尼旅遊,因此酒店亦加入不少遠東色 彩。客房收費由$331起。詳情瀏覽queensaba.com。

Gardens Resort offers a panoramic view of the sea and the surrounding rainforest. The owners have travelled extensively in Indonesia, and have added touches of the Far East to the resort. Rooms start at $331 per night. queensaba.com

全新開幕的Frangipani Spa只有一間房間,可 讓你一邊按摩,一邊享受海天一色的絕美景 觀,要數加勒比海上擁有最靚景的spa,這裡 可謂當之無愧。 The newly opened one-room Frangipani Spa has wraparound windows with views of nothing but sea and sky – possibly the best view from a spa in all of the Caribbean.

提供10間寬敞的度假屋,全部均以傳統沙巴式薑餅屋風

如欲查詢島上其他資料,可瀏覽 sabatourism.com。

格興建,白色牆身配以紅磚屋頂及綠色窗框。屋外更栽種

cottage-club.com。

Pared-down Island Elegance: The Cottage Club Hotel

蔥翠茂盛的植物及大堂的建築,為酒店增添 不少加勒比海的傳統風格。 The lush surroundings and the Grand House lobby building give this hotel the air of a classic Caribbean estate.

Club offers 10 spacious cottages built in traditional Saban gingerbread-style, with whitewashed walls, red tile roofs and green window trims. The grounds are surrounded by luscious kitchen facilities and a balcony facing the sea. Cottages begin at $130 per night. cottage-club.com 沙巴島的Juancho E. Yrausquin機場,擁有 全世界最短的商用跑道,全長只有396米, 比起多倫多中央島Billy Bishop小型機場的跑 道還要短半公里。只有受過特別訓練的機 師及小型飛機才可在這裡降落。

Practical Information Arriving in Saba WestJet, Sunwing and Air Canada have regular flights to St. Maarten. From there, you can choose to fly or ferry to Saba. Winair offers multiple daily flights. The flight lasts only 12 minutes, but allows you to experience the breathtaking landing on the world’s shortest commercial runway. fly-winair.sx

Just steps away from Windwardside, the Cottage

palm trees and exotic flowers. Each spacious suite has

當地交通 沙巴島上沒有公共交通工具,出 入可乘坐的士,司機們對小島均 十分熟識。另外島上還有一家租 車公司。

電壓 美國/加拿大標準110v。

斴近島上中心地帶Windwardside,the Cottage Club

皆設有廚房及向海露台。收費每晚由$130起。詳情瀏覽

離開沙巴島時需付$10美元離境 稅。請注意機場及港口均不設自 動櫃員機。

貨幣 官方貨幣為美元。

悠閒雅致 – The Cottage Club Hotel

了婆娑的棕櫚樹及熱帶花卉,度假feel十足。每間度假屋

內陸機方面,Winair每日提供多個 班次前往沙巴島。航程只需12分 鐘,你可親身體驗飛機在全世界 最短商用跑道上降落的滋味。詳 情可瀏覽fly-winair.sx。 當地有兩家小輪公司提供往返St. Maarten及沙巴島的服務,船程 於公海航行75分鐘,詳情可瀏覽 sabatransport.com 或stmaartenactivities.com。

Fit for Royalty: Queen’s Gardens Resort & Spa Perched 365 metres above sea level on Troy Hill, Queen’s

前往沙巴島 Westjet、Sunwing及加航都有定 期航班往返St. Maarten,由St. Maarten可乘坐內陸機或船隻前往 沙巴島。

黑色四柱形實木大床,鋪上以人手製作的白 色床鋪。 Handcrafted white quilts contrast nicely with the dark wood of the four-poster bed.

Saba’ s Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport has the shortest commerciallyused runway in the world. At just 396 metres, it is half a kilometre shorter than the Billy Bishop airstrip on Toronto Island. Only specially-trained pilots and small planes can land there.

There are two ferry services between St. Maarten and Saba. The journey takes 75 minutes through open sea. sabactransport. com and stmaarten-activities.com. A departure tax of US$10 is payable upon leaving Saba. Note: there are no ATMs at the airport or the harbour. Local Transportation There is no public transportation on Saba, although taxis are readily available and the drivers are very knowledgeable about the island. There is also one car-rental company on the island. Currency The U.S. dollar is the official currency. Electricity Voltage U.S. (Canada) standard, 110 volts. For more information about the island, visit sabatourism.com.

104

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


9Wx11.75Hinch_EliteGen016iPad_VAN.pdf 1 30/3/2016 4:13:18

iPad Edition Free App Name : EliteGen

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

EliteGen.singtao.ca


elite car

性能至上

2016 Porsche cayman GT4 Performance is the name of the game

以生產高性能跑車稱霸的保時捷推出了2016年款 的Cayman GT4,滿足了駕駛發燒友想擁有一部 既可供日常使用又可在賽道上馳騁的車的欲望。 While Porsche has, in recent times, strayed from its high-performance, sports-car roots, the 2016 Cayman GT4 hits the sweet spot for driving enthusiasts who want a car equally at home on the road and on the track. text, photo | Lorne Drury Metroland Media

106

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


Cayman GT4在著名的德國紐博格林(Nürburgring)北賽道測試的單圈圈速為7分40 秒,是同級車中最快的。據保時捷官方稱,它只是較911 GT3僅僅慢了一點點而已。 要數這部車「性能至上」的特性,其中一項就是GT4只有棍波,沒有自動波供選 擇。另外,Cayman GT4搭配中置的3.8公升水平對臥六缸引擎,當在每分鐘轉速達 7,400轉時有385匹馬力,扭力達310磅/呎,較Cayman最基本的引擎高出100匹馬力。 Cayman GT4在加拿大的售價由96,500元起,若與20萬元的911 GT3 RS比較, 你會覺得它其實很抵買,因為Cayman GT4有很多部件都是源於911 GT3 RS。 Cayman系列最基本的款式有275匹馬力,售價為59,900元;而有 325匹馬力的Cayman S則賣73,100元,高一級的GTS有340匹, 售85,800元。 令GT4與眾不同的是它的動力核心大有來頭,有很多 來自高價車款,例如引擎取材自911 Carrera S,前方懸 掛系統是保時捷主動懸掛管理系統(PASM)主動式減震 調整系統,並配上全套911 GT3的剎車系統。 Porsche is expanding its GT lineup with the Cayman, bringing a new model to market that has already acquitted itself well at the famed Nürburgring circuit in Germany, with a lap time of seven minutes, 40 seconds on the north loop. That makes the GT4 the fastest performer in its class, according to Porsche, and just slightly slower than its 911 GT3 counterpart. The first hint that performance is the name of the game with the GT4 is the fact that it only comes with a manual transmission. The Cayman GT4 features a 3.8-litre, flat-six engine sitting mid-ship, producing 385 horsepower at 7,400 rpm and 310 lb/ft of torque. This engine outguns the base Cayman powerplant by more than 100 horses. Starting at $96,500 in Canada, the GT4 is the ultimate Cayman, yet it is actually a bargain when you compare it with the $200,000 911 GT3 RS, from which many of its components are derived. The Cayman lineup starts with the 275-horsepower base model, priced at $59,900. The 325-horsepower Cayman S comes in at $73,100, while the 340-horsepower GTS is priced at $85,800.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

107


Elite Car What sets the GT4 apart is that it gets many of its goodies from higherpriced models. The engine, for example, comes from the 911 Carrera S, while the front suspension, the Porsche Active Suspension Management (PASM) adaptive damping system and brakes are largely adopted from the 911 GT3. According to Porsche, the GT4 will do the 0-100km/h run in 4.4 seconds with a top speed of 294 km/h. Testing during the Automobile Journalists Association of Canada (AJAC) Car of the Year program last fall showed a 0-100 km/h time of 4.7 seconds for the GT4. The 80-120 km/h acceleration time was 3.8 seconds, while the 100-0 km/h braking distance was 37.7 metres.

據保時捷官方提供的資料顯示,GT4自靜止狀態加 速至時速100公里僅需4.4秒,而其最高時速達至294公 里。在去年秋季加拿大汽車新聞從業員協會(AJAC)年度 最佳汽車的測試中,錄得其由靜止至時速100公里為4.7 秒,從時速80公里加速到100公里則需3.8秒,而從時速 100公里剎停的距離則為37.7米。 GT4在尊貴/性能(售價超過75,000元)組別汽車中, 與凱迪拉克(Cadillac) CTS-V、凌志RC F和平治AMG GT S轎跑車一同爭奪2016年度最佳汽車的名銜,而最 終由平治AMG GT S奪魁。 在很多人的眼中,Cayman其實是保時捷車隊中造 型設計的表表者,而GT4有很多出眾的特色讓它有別於 Cayman的其他車款,其中包括全新的車身空氣動力學 套件,如車頭前面3個明顯的進氣口和車尾的大型定風 翼,這都是特別的設計,以保持車輛穩定堅實。 GT4的Sport Chrono 跑車套裝是個靈巧的標準裝 置,配備了專屬的賽道精確應用程式(Track Precision App),非常適合把這車用在賽道上。若是經常賽車的 話,則可以選置陶瓷剎車系統。 車廂內的中控台有兩個按鈕供選擇,讓駕駛者可隨 意增添賽車感。賽車按鈕激活轉速匹配功能,讓電腦在 快速減檔時選擇正確的引擎轉速。另一個按鈕則控制排 氣的聲音。駕車者可調節賽車排氣系統至合意的聲音, 在長途駕駛時可將聲音調低,而要享受響亮的排氣咆哮 聲時則把它推高。

108

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

The GT4 was competing in the Prestige/ Performance Over $75,000 class against the Cadillac CTS-V, Lexus RC F and Mercedes-Benz AMG GT S Coupe, the overall class winner. To many eyes, the Cayman is the style leader in the Porsche lineup and the GT4 has many distinguishing features to set it apart from the other Cayman models. Among them are three pronounced air intakes in the front fascia and a large fixed rear wing— all part of an aerodynamic package designed for downforce to keep the vehicle firmly planted. One neat standard feature is a Sport Chrono Package with Track Precision App, perfect for those who take their vehicle to track days. Also for those who do a lot of track time, a ceramic brake system is optional. Drivers have the choice of two buttons on the centre console to increase the sportiness of the car. The sport button activates the revmatching feature, allowing the computer to select the correct engine speed during quick downshifts. A second button controls the exhaust sounds. The driver can adjust the Sport Exhaust System to just the right note -- i.e. tone it down for long trips or ramp it up to enjoy a rich exhaust tone.


A black interior is standard on the GT4, highlighted by platinum-coloured stitching, GT4 logos on the headrests and brushed aluminum trim elements add to the flavour. The two-way Sport Plus seats feature pronounced side-bolsters to keep driver and passenger firmly planted during spirited cornering. Our tester was outfitted with the full bucket seats from the 918 Spyder, a $5,400 option. The heavy bolstering and deep buckets, however, make it a bit of a chore to pry oneself out of the seat, especially for a mid-60s tester like myself. But that’s a minor irritant when you consider the enjoyment this vehicle can provide. A unique sport steering wheel sets the GT4 further apart from its other Cayman siblings. It’s a nice package, but more in a no-frills than luxury type of GT4車廂以黑色格調為主,並以白金色的縫線襯托以突

way. It’s all about performance and weight-to-power ratio here.

出反差效果。頭枕上印有GT4的標誌,跑車座位兩旁有厚厚 的側墊,讓司機和乘客在「掟彎」時可以穩坐椅上。我們所測

Among the standard features on the GT4 are a CDR audio system

試的跑車裝上918 Spider貼身的跑車桶型座椅,價值5,400

with seven-inch colour display and touchscreen and Porsche Stability

元。由於有厚墊和座位深陷,離開座位時頗為費勁,不過相

Management.

對於這輛跑車帶來的享受,座位的事只是個小問題而已。 The true enthusiast who wants to keep the car as light as possible can GT4擁有獨特的方向盤,使它更加拋離Cayman的其他

delete standard air conditioning and the audio system. In an effort to shed

車款。它的標準裝置還有一個CDR音響系統,7吋彩色輕觸

weight and increase performance, the car already has straps instead of door

式顯示屏和專用的保時捷穩定管理系統。

handles.

若你是真正的玩家,希望車輛愈輕愈好,你可拆去車

A few minutes with the GT4 is all it takes to confirm that this is truly a

內的標準冷氣系統和音響系統。為減輕汽車的重量以提高性

driver’s car. The GT3 may be faster, thanks to its 90-horsepower advantage

能,GT4連車門手把亦刻意換上一圈尼龍帶。你只需在GT4

and a touch better on the track, but it also comes in at a much-higher ticket

花上幾分鐘,便可以肯定這是一部真正為駕駛者而設的汽

price.

車。雖然GT3的馬力高90匹,可以開得更快,在賽道上的感 覺較佳,但同時它的售價也遠遠超過GT4。

The six-speed gearbox is a treat to manipulate, but the clutch will be a challenge if you find yourself

6速手動波箱是車玩家所夢寐以求的,可是如果遇上塞

stuck in a traffic jam. On the track, it’s most

車,離合器對你將是一個挑戰,不過,在賽道上這則是一大

enjoyable. Most enthusiasts will find the

享受。

GT4 satisfies all their road and track needs. With its low centre of gravity

大多數玩家會同意GT4可同時滿足他們在公路和賽道上

and engine sitting mid-ship, it hugs the

的需要。GT4低重心和引擎中置後驅,即使要「掟急彎」,它

road on the tightest corners and begs

仍能穩當地在路上飛馳,玩家可開得更狠。

to be driven harder.

保時捷Cayman GT4 2016一覽 Porsche Cayman GT4 2016 at-a-glance 車身款式:雙門高性能轎跑車。

BODY STYLE: two-door, high-performance coupe.

驅動方式:中置引擎,後輪驅動。

DRIVE METHOD: mid-engine, rear-wheel drive.

引擎: 3. 8公升6缸引擎(385匹馬力,扭力310磅/呎),

ENGINE: 3.8-litre six-cylinder (385 hp, 310 lb/ft) with a six-speed

6速手動波箱 耗油量: 13.3/10.1/11.9 公升/100公里 市內/高速公路/綜合。

manual transmission. FUEL CONSUMPTION: 13.3/10.1/11.9 L/100 km city/hwy./combined. CARGO CAPACITY: 334 litres.

尾箱容量:334公升。

PRICE: $96,500, as tested $105,290.

售價:96,500元,用作測試之車售105,290元。

WEBSITE: porsche.com/canada

網址: www.porsche.com/canada。 What’s best: It’s just a superb driver’s car. 優點:這是一部一流的駕駛者之車。

What’s worst: Getting in and out of the optional deep bucket seats.

缺點:進出選置的深桶型座位時稍感困難。

What’s interesting: To keep the weight down, you can delete air

誘人之處: 你可把標準裝置的空調及音響系統拆除以 減輕車輛的重量。

conditioning and the audio system from the list of standard features.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

109


Just for fun

與大自然接軌

Cast off and live the high life 享受私家海上假期

無論是沿海的溫哥華、維多利亞,或是有三大湖

The sight of yachts of all shapes and sizes moored

及小島嶼群聚的安大略省,每每看見沿岸遊艇會

at yacht clubs along the pristine coastlines

碼頭停泊的大小船隻,總想到在夏天陽光下揚帆

of Vancouver and Victoria, or on the shores of

出海的愜意。

Ontario’s numerous lakes, can easily awake one’s desire to cast off into the brilliant summer sun.

擁有一艘私人遊艇,無論是與家人欣賞美麗風 景、與三五知己齊齊釣魚、與伴侶在船上歎紅

A day on the water with family and friends --

酒、與孩子們一起玩刺激的水上運動,甚至乎只

perhaps catching a few fish, enjoying a glass

是獨自一人望湖靜思,都是難

of wine, or simply taking in

得的好時光。由五月的Victoria

some rays and savouring the

Day 起,一直到九月的Labour

serenity – can be refreshing

Day也是遊艇出動的好時機。

and revitalizing. The traditional

安省的湖區在北美洲是數一數二的,五大湖中有 四個就在安省的周邊,包括Lake Ontario、Lake Huron 、Lake Erie 及Lake Superior。 Ontario is known for its lakes, including four of the five Great Lakes – Ontario, Erie, Huron and Superior.

boating season runs from Victoria Day in May until Labour Day in September. text | Livian photo | internet photo

110

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


這艘開放式的船,船身長25 呎左右,售價十餘萬。 This open-design, 25-feet boat costs in excess of $100,000.

加拿大的遊艇會為數不少,以多倫多來說,一段Queens Quay已有超過10個遊艇會。加拿大領航遊艇會的周查理表 示,經過近年致力推廣水上文化,越來越多人加入「玩遊艇」 的行列。 「小的湖泊風浪較小,開船出去半小時、一小時總會 發現美麗的小島。上島去玩玩,到小鎮吃農家菜,非常休閒

Canada has plenty of yacht clubs. There are more than 10 of them in Toronto alone. Charley Zhou, of Ahoy Captain Yachting Services, observes

呢。」 查理說。

that more people are taking up yachting following active promotions in

「上船」 沒難度

recent years.

查理解釋,在加拿大「玩遊艇」不難,因為一路有水上航標

“Small lakes are less choppy, and one will certainly find a beautiful

和水警巡邏,很安全。另外,獲發船牌亦是輕而易舉的事。原

island within half an hour to an hour after setting sail,” Zhou says. “It’s very

來在安省開船,只要簡單上網考個牌便可,問題是懂得理論後

relaxing to jump off to an island and enjoy the local rustic scenery.”

你有沒有膽量在大湖上游走而已。

Low-entry threshold

考牌照的過程非常簡單,只要參加一個為時3小時的網上 課程,然後完成75分鐘的網上考試便可。費用:50大元。

It’s easy, and safe, to sail in Canada as the waterways are well marked and patrolled by marine police. Getting a boating licence is easy, too. In

然而,很多人在考了牌、買了船後卻不敢自己開船到湖

Ontario, it’s as simple as taking a licence test online. It involves a three-

裡去,還得另外參加一些技術課程,費用由幾百元至幾千元不

hour course and then 75 minutes to complete an online test. The cost:

等。查理表示,開船實是易學難精,技術要求甚高。 「最難掌握

just $50.

是『埋岸』,因為船沒有brake,需要多練習才成。但很多人, 尤其是女士們都會覺得開船比開車易,因為沒有紅燈、不用爬

The question is: are you confident enough to start sailing, having aced

頭、不會有人追尾等。」查理亦謂,除了要了解自己船隻的「脾

the online test and bought a boat? Many aspiring captains are still timid

性」 外,學識遇上問題時怎樣解決、處理和求救等都非常重要。

about setting sail without spending a few hundred, or a few thousand, dollars for hands-on sailing courses. Zhou says learning the basics of

查理認為加拿大新移民應多接觸戶外文化活 動。「居住時間越久,他們把加拿大當作自己 的家,便會慢慢融入加拿大各項主流生活。就 像十多年前很少華人接觸高爾夫球、滑雪等運 動,但現在越來越多人投入這類活動了。」 Charley Zhou, of Ahoy Captain Yachting Services, thinks Canada’s new immigrants should take advantage of outdoor activities. “Over time, they will think of Canada as their home and will be integrated into Canada’s mainstream lifestyle, as evident by the increasingly number of Chinese migrants who take up golf and skiing, which was rare a decade ago.”

加拿大有數以萬計的湖泊和島嶼,在安省最歡迎的包括著名的千島湖 (Thousand Islands)、米湖 (Rice Lake)、石湖 (Stoney Lake) 等,大一點的有蜜 月湖 (Muskoka Lake) 和閃高湖 (Lake Simcoe) 等。 Canada boasts thousands of inland lakes and islands. In Ontario, those waterways include Lake Simcoe, Lake Muskoka, Rice Lake and Stoney Lake, as well as the Thousand Islands in Lake Ontario, east of Kingston.

sailing can be easy, but mastering it is highly technical. “The most challenging part is berthing, as yachts have no brakes. It takes a lot of manoeuvring. Having said that, many boaters find it easier to operate a vessel than a car, simply because boats don’t need to follow traffic lights and there will be no overtaking or tailgating to worry about.” The trick, he says, is to know your boat, learn to deal with problems and send out rescue signals.

浮筒平底船是由兩個或以上空心金屬圓筒支撐的平底船,駕駛 時較容易掌握。 Pontoons are flat vessels floating on two or more hollow metal drums. For boating novices, they are easier to navigate.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

111


Just for fun

選擇船隻從何入手? 位於一獨立小島的加拿大皇

Finding the right vessel The Royal Canadian Yacht Club is located on a trio of small islands

家遊艇會(Royal Canadian Yacht

off Toronto’s downtown shoreline, referred to locally as “the island.” It

Club) 是城中數一數二的私人會

is one of the top private clubs in town and home to yachts of all sizes

所,碼頭停泊著各式各樣的船

and shapes.

隻,就像個小型的遊艇展覽廳 每年一月份多倫多都會舉行大型 的遊艇展,可以親身細看各款船 的配置和不同特性。有意買船的 人都會在此預訂船隻,準備迎接 夏天的來臨。 The Toronto International Boat Show is held every January and provides an excellent opportunity to check out the designs and features of different types of boats. Some buyers will order their boats during the show in time for summer.

。撇除帆船不說,適合家庭用的

Setting aside sailboats, there are three types of motorized boats

機動船大致可分為三大類:

suitable for families.

釣魚船

Bass fishing boat: These are fast, light and open, with simple

釣魚船的特點是速度快、輕

fixtures and basic interior design. Prices range from tens of thousands

盈,但結構開放、配置簡單、 不講究內飾。便宜的幾萬元有 交易,貴則五、六十萬都有, 較受歡迎的尺寸在40呎以內。

小型日間船

of dollars to more than half a million dollars. Most popular sizes are 40 feets long or less.

Cabin cruisers: These small yachts, typically less than 40 feets long, are suitable for day sailing or short journeys. They will have a small cabin and relatively simple structures.

這種船適合在日間行駛及短途航行。其船艙不大,結構也比較

Luxury yachts: These are ideal for long journeys and measure 30

簡單 。

feets and longer. They usually have bedrooms, a lavatory, refrigeration

豪華長途旅行船

and air-conditioning/heating. Some are even fitted with a washer and

通常30呎以上屬於豪華型遊艇,包含睡房、洗手間、雪櫃、冷

dryer -- very home-like indeed.

暖氣等。有些甚至還有洗衣機、乾衣機等,就像一個家。這種 船強調舒適度,配套齊全,適合長途航行。 如果從未接觸過遊艇而又想在湖面上小試牛刀,查理建議 購買小型日間船的入門級 -- 浮筒平底船 (Pontoon),售價由2萬 至10萬元不等。「雖然沒有像大船的齊全配套,但內裡佈置也相 當溫馨,適合與家人相聚。它抗浪性不高,只適合在細湖區行 走,時速約30至40公里。」

Novices who have never sailed a yacht, yet are tempted to take on a lake, are advised to opt for a pontoon, which is an entry-level small boat for day sailing that carries a price tag of $20,000 to $100,000. “While it is not as comprehensively fitted out as a big boat, it is cosy enough for family trips,” Zhou says. “It’s not as good in choppy waters, so it’s better used on small lakes at a top speed of 30-40 km/h.”

加國亦有製造遊艇,由Richmond Yachts打造的超級遊艇Status Quo,三層高 長150呎,採用提供4,000匹馬力的Twin Caterpillar C32 Ascerts引擎,船艙派 對室、飯廳、廚房、睡房及客房均設計豪華,適合海上派對一族。現由經紀 Robert J Cury代售,叫價$21,995,000。 Canada has its own boat manufacturers. The Superyacht Status Quo, made by Richmond Yachts, is 150 feets long and has three levels. It is powered by a 4,000-horsepower Twin Caterpillar C32 Ascerts engine. The luxury interior boasts a party room, dining room, kitchen, master bedroom and guest bedroom. It is on sale, through Florida-based agent Robert J. Cury, for $21,995,000.

超級豪華遊艇 Super luxury yacht 若果不想煩但又想享受出海的樂趣,可以考慮租賃遊艇。這艘船身長 達228呎的Sherakhan超級豪華遊艇,猶如一座海上移動宮殿,具有 先進的機器設備及齊全的配套設施,加上豪華的內飾和房間布局完美 地結合在一起,給人高貴、舒適的感覺。 租賃費用:夏天每星期約 $424,056美元;冬天每星期約 $385,000美 元。 (可提供26人的住宿) Some might prefer to lease a yacht. The 228-feet-long Sherakhan is a floating palace, complete with state-of-the-art hardware, comprehensive fittings, luxury interior and rooms to accommodate 26 people. It can be leased for US$424,056 for a week in summer, or US$385,000 in winter.

112

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


超過41呎的豪華遊艇,內裡設備一應俱全,售價約52萬。 The luxury yacht, measuring more than 41 feets in length, is comprehensively fitted and costs $520,000.

The cost of upkeep After acquiring a boat, the next thing to consider is where to keep it and how to maintain it. In addition to fuel and regular maintenance, other costs include:

Mooring fees: Yachts of 23 feets and longer

養船的預算

cost an average of $3,000-$4,000 per year

買船之後,接下來便要學懂安置及保養船隻了。在安省養一艘

for mooring, whereas

小型船的費用並不高,除了油費及後續的常態性保養外,其他基本

smaller boats can easily

費用加起來一年不過幾千元。費用主要分三部份:

be hauled out of the

船隻停泊費

water by a large car or a

泊位費一般是針對23呎以上的遊艇,一年大約三至四千元。 至於23呎以下的小遊艇,船主可選擇用較大型的私家車或pick-up truck拖回自己的車房或花園(注意船隻不可停泊在車道上,即使是 家門前的車道也不行) 。

上水和下水費 由於冬天湖面會結冰,所以入冬前船隻必須在停泊的位置上升 起至水面,這個費用俗稱「過冬費」。下水費則是在春天時把船降回 水裡去的費用,俗稱「落水費」。以30呎的船來計,兩者加起來的費 用約兩千元左右。

保險費 跟車保險很相似,船保險的費用與船主的駕駛經驗、船價、船 的大小等有關。平均來說,每年的保險費大約是船價的1%左右,即

pickup truck and stored in your own garage or back garden when not in use. (Note: some bylaws preclude parking boats on roads, or even private driveways.)

Launch/haul-out fees: Since lakes freeze over in winter, moored boats must be hauled out of the water. This is called a “winter fee”. In spring, the boat is lowered back into the water for a “launch fee.” These two fees will total about $2,000 per year for a 30 feets boat.

Insurance: Like car insurance, the cost of boat insurance is based on the owner’s sailing experience, and the price and size of the boat. On average, the annual cost is equivalent to about one per cent of the appraised value of the boat. For example, insuring a $100,000 boat would cost about $1,000 annually.

一艘10萬的船,每年的保費大約是一千元左右。 In total: It takes $7,000-$8,000 a year to keep a 30 feets boat, 總括以上數字,養一艘30呎遊艇,一年的費用大約是七至八

$13,000 for a 40 feets vessel and up to $30,000 for a 50 feets yacht.

千;40呎的話便要一萬三千左右;如果是50呎的遊艇則要兩萬五至

New boats usually come with a one-year general warranty and three

三萬元。另外,新船一般包一年的維修保養及三年的發動機保養。

years for the engine.

概念遊艇的誕生 A concept yacht 這個名為「遊艇島」 的設計是一個超創 新的概念。設計者 大膽挑戰遊艇行業 內公認的準則,設 計出反傳統的船體 形狀,營造「島」的 效果,務求實現用 家最原始的慾望。 The super-innovative design of Yacht Island challenges the traditional notion of yacht building with an unconventional shape that resembles an island to meet the primal desire of its users.

加拿大皇家遊艇會在1852年成立,吸引很多愛船之人加入。碼頭停泊的遊艇款 式多,對於有意買船的人士很具參考價值。 The Royal Canadian Yacht Club, founded in 1852, has drawn many a sailing enthusiast to its midst. Boats of all descriptions are moored here, making it a great place for prospective boat buyers to browse.

有關考船牌的資料詳情,可瀏 覽 www.boatinglicense.ca。拿 到船牌後終生受用,亦無須續 牌或繳交年費。 Visit boatinglicense.ca for details on how to obtain a boating licence. The licence is lifelong, with no renewal or annual fees required.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

113


Hi-Tech

水中貴族

Leica X-U

Underwater nobility text | 竺 photo | Devil

隨着運動熱潮的興起,近幾年適用於戶外活動 The hot pursuit of sports has made outdoor 的相機也是愈來愈受歡迎,當中做得比較出 cameras hot properties as well, with Olympus and 色的要數Olympus及Ricoh。最近相機老大哥 Ricoh as the traditional market leaders. However, Leica亦都推出了一款四防相機Leica X-U(Typ leading camera brand Leica is no slouch either, 113),外形不是一貫的金屬感,因要做到防水 having introduced the Leica X-U (Typ 113), 機身,所以選擇以高韌性橡膠機身取而代之, boasting four forms of resistance. 只有機頂是以鋁合金製造,整體來說更加輕量 化,還具備防寒、防撞、防水及防塵功能,帶 著它上山下海也不會變成 「重負擔」 。

114

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


其實分體式設計都真的很方便,用家可以將鏡頭拆下來安裝

Since the camera is waterproof, the body is not the typical metal,

在指定位置,屏幕部分還可以live view及遙控快門,適合用來自拍

but anti-slip rubber. only the top plate is in aluminum. the body is

或一大班朋友一起群拍。或者配合專用的多角度腰帶裝置,將鏡

lighter overall, and the camera is resistant to cold weather, shock,

頭固定在頭部、背囊及手腕等地方作攝錄,非常方便。

water and dust. it certainly won’t be much of a load to carry along when conquering nature.

另外,這部相機還加入自拍神器的即時傳相功能,連過相app 都是與自拍神器共用,用家只須要在手機安裝EXILIM CONNECT

even though the camera body has been significantly revamped,

app,就可以透過app連結手機,即時將拍攝的相片及影片傳到手

there’s mot much change in terms of operation and the control dials

機,分享至社交網站。

and buttons have been kept simple. the new Uw feature enables speedy capture of different underwater actions without having to find

另一項新加入的Highlight Movie拼接動畫亦相當好玩,用家亦

the setting on the menu, thereby saving a lot of time.

只須要選擇好日期,相機便可自動在所選的日子中挑選拍攝得最 好的短片,組合為一條全高清短片。這項功能的運算方式是參考

Manual focus is retained, which is rare among cameras with four

專業電影製作人的故事創作技術而得來,所以才可將零碎的短片

resistance features. as lighting for underwater shooting is critical,

拼接成為一個完整故事,相當有趣。

leica thoughtfully sets the flash above the lens instead of on top of the body, though the power of the flash still has room for improvement.

雖然機身材質做了極大轉變,但好在操作上變化不大,轉盤 及按鈕設計保持簡潔,新增的UW水中拍攝模式掣,方便用家快速

However, the large aperture complements the flash in low-lighting

於不同情況下捕捉水中生態,不須再在目錄中設定,節省很多時

situations. the leica X-U (typ 113), fitted with a 23mm f/1.7 aSPH

間。而且亦保留了手動對焦環,四防相機來說實屬難得。另外,

lens equivalent to 35mm focal length, promises top-quality pictures.

因水中拍攝對於光線要求十分重要,所以Leica將閃光燈設在鏡頭

Underwater flora and fauna are usually shot close up, so the large

上方而非機頂,這個絕對是經過深思熟慮,不過power仍有待加

aperture is a definite help. all things considered, this leica is a very

強。要解決水底光線過暗的難題,除利用閃光燈輔助外,大光圈

good new attempt.

絕對有優勢。Leica X-U配備23mm (等效35mm)定焦鏡頭,並擁有 f1.7大光圈,質素相當有保證。通常拍攝水中動植物,特寫是經常 用到的拍攝方式,所以大光圈亦有助突出主體。總體來看,Leica 這部四防相機是非常不錯的新嘗試。

鋁合金製成的機頂設有快門及光圈轉 盤,亦保留了熱靴位。 The aluminum top plate holds the dials for shutter and apertures, as well as the hot shoe.

閃光燈設在鏡頭上方,能夠更近距離 鏡頭亦保留了手動對焦環。 Manual focus is retained. 給被攝物打光。 The flash is located above the lens for closer lighting on the object.

售價Price:$4,199 感光元件Sensor: CMOS sensor, size APS-C with1620 million pixels 光圈 Aperture:f1.7-f16 快門 Shutter speed:30s-1/2000s 焦距 Focal length: 23mm (35mm equivalent) 最近對焦距離 Close-up:20cm 感光度 ISO:ISO100-12500 儲存媒體Storage:SD/SDHC/SDXC 特點Features: 機背按鈕設計相當簡潔,同時分布機 防水 (15米) 、防塵、防寒、防撞 身兩側,而新增了UW水中拍攝模式掣 waterproof (to 15m), also resistant to 在左下,一按即可使用。 dust, cold weather and shock The simple dials on the back and sides 體積Size:140x79x88mm of the body, along with the additional 重量Weight:600g UW button on the bottom left, are user-friendly.

SD卡槽及電池位則位於底部,蓋的內 部設有防水膠,確保不會入水。 The internal seal for the SD card slot and battery slot at the bottom ensures the camera is waterproof.

機身以高韌性橡膠製成,具備防 水、防寒、防撞及防塵功能,不 過美觀度就不及其他機款。 The camera body uses non-slip rubber and is resistant to water, cold, shock and dust, albeit looking less attractive than other models.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

115


Hi-Tech Samsung通曉打鐵趁熱的道理,剛 在MWC公布的兩款最新旗艦手機 Galaxy S7及S7 Edge火速殺到,片 刻都不想讓大家多等。迎合近年的 手機攝影熱潮,S7及S7 edge都在相 機上下了一番工夫,首次將應用在 DSLR相機上的專業級Dual Pixel雙 像素感應器置入在手機中,令手機的 自動對焦速度及感光度都大大提升。 Not one to keep fans waiting, Samsung struck while the iron was hot, launching the latest versions of its flagship models – the Galaxy S7 and Galaxy S7 Edge -- at February’s Mobile World Congress in Barcelona.

下水也不怕

SamSung Galaxy S7, S7 edGe No Fear oF Water text | 竺 photo | Yin、竺

116

ELITEGEN

APR

2016


01•後置鏡頭有Dual Pixel雙像素感應器的加持,並且具備光學防手震技 術。 The rear camera is fitted with Dual Pixel image sensor that compensates for camera shakes.

01

02•前置鏡頭亦同樣擁有F1.7大光圈,不過就得500萬像素。 The front-facing camera also features a F1.7 lens, though the pixel is at a lower 5MP. 03•機身邊緣相當圓滑,連按鈕都做得好纖薄,手感非常好。 The body feels smooth with its streamlined profile and pushers.

The cameras of the two models are enhanced to capitalize on the trend of using mobile phones for taking photos. The high-performing Dual Pixel image sensor, more often found in DSLR cameras, is applied for the first time in these mobile phones, to deliver significant 02

03

improvement in autofocus speed and light sensitivity. Coupled with camera shake compensation and an F1.7 aperture, Samsung lays bare its ambitions to deliver crisp and colour-rich images, even in very dim settings, with its latest pride and joy. Yet another outstanding fun feature of the Galaxy S7 is the new Motion Panorama mode, which lets one record the movements of the

其實只是從這個升級,就可以見到Samsung在這兩款 旗艦機鏡頭上的野心有多大。配合埋光學防震系統及F1.7 大光圈,就算在低光環境下,成像都比以往更加清晰,顏 色層次亦更加豐富。 不得不提的另一趣味功能,就是全新加入的Motion Panorama,在這個拍攝模式下,當用家在攝錄影片時,手 機會自動從中選取最清晰的相片畫格,並無縫的拼接成一 張全景相片,令閣下在錄影時亦不會錯過拍攝靜態影像。 其次值得一讚的就是新加入的防水功能,兩部機的機 身均由金屬及玻璃物料結合而製成,具備IP68抗水防塵能 力,就算不小心跌落馬桶亦不致即時報銷。當中S7 Edge 依然大玩曲面,雖然筆者對曲面就沒太大感覺,但獲大廠 推出就代表市場上絕對有捧場客。總之這兩部旗艦機的規 格,比起前代總算有突破,玻璃融合金屬的機身雖然很有 手感,但真是超易留指模,有潔癖的用家要慎選。

subject in video and selects the best frames in the clip to seamlessly sew together as a panoramic shot. This helps deliver quality still images from videos. Also noteworthy is that it has no fear of water. Both devices are made of a composite of metal and glass and are dust- and waterproof to the IP68 standard (1.5 metres for 30 minutes), so that the phones won’t be a write-off if they fall into the toilet. The S7 Edge maintains its curved profile, something I’m ambivalent about. However, there must be fans of the design for Samsung to continue making the model. While the specifications of the two flagship models are something of a breakthrough, the glass and metal body is easily smudged and covered with fingerprints -- a shortcoming that a fastidious user will have to take into consideration.

Samsung Galaxy S7 edge總共推出了3種顏色的機身。

Samsung Galaxy S7就只推出白色及金色機身。

Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge comes in black, silver or gold.

Samsung Galaxy S7 is available in white or gold.

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

117


Hi-Tech

01

02

試相區

Test Drive 由於兩部手機的鏡頭規格完 全一樣,所以以下的試相,已經 可以代表兩部手機的拍攝效果。 As the cameras of both models have the same specifications, the test results are applicable to both models.

01•可能S7比較細部,女仔容易拿在手上,所以自 拍都穩好多。 Perhaps due to the S7’s smaller size, it’s easier to handle for women, and is good for taking selfies.

03

02•就算是自動模式下,白平衡亦都頗為準確,白 色的馬兒沒有偏藍或偏黃。 Even in auto mode, the white balance is quite accurate. The white horse does not look too blue or too yellow. 03•在光差比較大的場景,暗位及光位都可照顧 到,成像接近DC水平。 In settings of greater light contrast, the dark and light areas are balanced, resulting in an image that rivals that of a digital camera.

SPEC Samsung Galaxy S7(32GB) 售價 price:$960 •作業平台 OS:Android 6.0 • 屏幕screen:5.1吋Quad HD(2K) Super AMOLED screen •感光元件 sensor:Dual Pixel senor • 相機 cameras:12MP (rear) /5MP(front) •電池 battery: 3,000mAh •體積 size:142.4 x 69.6 x 7.9 mm •重 量weight:152g 特點:IP68 認證,支援抗水防塵(1.5米水深可使用 30分鐘),UHD(4K)、慢動作及縮時攝影,遊戲啟動 器,Always On Display special feature: IP68 certified protection against water and dust (to 1.5 metres deep for 30 minutes), UHD(4K), slow motion and hyperlapse, Game Launcher, Always On Display

Coming up… Samsung今年勢要跟上360的 趨勢,所以今趙趟亦一併公布了 Samsung Gear 360相機,獨設兩

Samsung Galaxy S7 edge(32GB)

個1,500萬像素魚眼鏡頭,可以拍攝

售價 price:$1,100 • 作業平台 OS:Android 6.0 • 屏幕screen:5.5吋Quad HD(2K) Super AMOLED screen • 感光元件 sensor:Dual Pixel senor • 相機 cameras:12MP (rear) /5MP(front) • 電池 battery: 3,600mAh • 體積 size:150.9 x 72.6 x 7.7mm • 重 量weight:157g

3,000萬像素的360度球形影片及相

特點:曲面屏幕,IP68認證,支援抗水防塵(1.5米水 深可使用30分鐘),UHD(4K)、慢動作及縮時攝影, 遊戲啟動器,Always On Display special feature: curved screen, IP68 certified protection against water and dust (to 1.5 metres deep for 30 minutes), UHD(4K), slow motion and hyperlapse, Game Launcher, Always On Display

118

同場加映

ELITEGEN

APR

2016

片,於本月正式推出。 Riding the craze for 360-degree cameras, Samsung unveiled the Samsung Gear 360. It features two 15MP fish-eye lenses for capturing 30MP 360-degree spherical movies and images. It hits the market this month.


良駒馳騁,乘風呼嘯! 全 新 2016 C 450 AMG。 總 售 價 * 由 $58,960 起

尊貴享受

無出其右

奔馳汽車大溫地區 6 間陳列室星期日照常營業 ( 陳列室星期日營業時間各有不同,請直接查詢 ) 溫哥華 (D#6276)

溫東奔馳 (D#6279)

北溫哥華 (D#6277)

550 Terminal Avenue

3550 Lougheed Hwy

1375 Marine Drive

604-736-7411

604-639-3300

604-984-9351

列治文 (D#6278)

1-855-554-9194 I mbvancouver.ca

時代坊 ( 音樂噴泉旁 ) 汽車城 5691 Parkwood Way 4151 Hazelbridge Way 604-278-7662 604-295-6089

素里 (D#11013) 15508-104th Ave. 604-581-7662

© 2016 Mercedes-Benz Canada Inc. 上圖所示為全新2016 C 450 4MATIC 房車,可額外選配19"AMG 5輪輻合金輪圈,廠方建議全國售價$55,900。*總售價$58,960包括運費/PDI $2,295,經銷商文件費$595,冷氣環保費$100,PPSA最高至$45,EHIF 輪呔回收費$25,過濾隔及電池回收費。選擇加裝設備,費用及稅項另計。汽車牌費,保險,登記費另計。個別分銷商可能提供較低租賃或貸款利率。以上各項優惠可隨時更改而不另行通知。詳情請向大溫各奔馳陳列室或玫電奔馳客戶服務部1-855-5549194查詢。有效期至2016年3月31日止。 TM



Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.