A NEW EXPERIENCE BE YOND LUXURY
V ERONICA CHOU INSIDE A GOLDEN GIRL’S CLOSE T CAROLINE SCHEUFELE’S V ISION OF LIFE IN CON V ERS ATION WITH PE TR A NEMCOVA
MACAU A CIT Y OF CONTR ADITIONS L’ORMARINS SPECTACUL AR V INE YARDS IN FR ANSCHHOEK SOUTH AFRICA
CHAIRMAN FOREWORD
Dear Friends, We welcome you to the fourth issue of Cercle Editions. This issue would not have been as vibrant without the great contributions from our members. Caroline Scheufele explains her work and life philosophy in My Vision of Life; we talk to Petra Nemcova about her philanthropic work; and interior designer Caroline Sarkozy opens the doors to her international projects. For the first time, and to celebrate the Festive Season, we have chosen to feature one of our club members on the cover, In my recent travels, I witnessed once again that South East Asia is the perfect market to grow luxury brands. The place is alive with possibility, excitement and individuals aspiring to the best of what life has to offer. At Watches and Wonders in Hong Kong, the first exhibition of its kind in Asia, exclusive international watchmakers exhibited new timepieces to an unparalleled number of visitors. Just last week I was in Geneva for the GPHG, where the best watch brands were awarded for their efforts. I am already anticipating the SIHH at the end of January. I wish all our Cercle club members a wonderful Winter Season, whether this be skiing in Gstaad, Courchevel and Aspen, or swimming in St. Barth’s.
GABRIELE SALVADORI
Founder and CEO
6 | Issue N3
WATCH: Chopard L.U.C 150 All in One White Gold Tourbillon
the hard working and glamorous textile entrepreneur Veronica Chou.
Creative Center RD, Creative Director Alvaro Maggini
Exclusive RD01SQ Manufacture movement Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon
The only Manufacture to be 100% Poinçon de Genève certified. The most demanding signature in fine watchmaking.
CONTENT 12
MY VISION OF LIFE
17
ECONOMICS
20
HIDDEN GEMS
24
JEWEL STORY
28
WAT C H S T OR Y
44
WOR LD LU XURY CONFER ENCES
46
M Y FAVO U R I T E S
52
ICONIC
56
FA SHION STOR IE S
66
WISHLIST
69
A ROU ND THE WOR LD
CAROLINE SCHEUFELE BRIC
GOYARD
PRECIOUS SEALIFE
GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE HUBLOT WATCHES & WONDERS SIHH FRANC VILA S.E.A. OF LUXURY VERONICA CHOU THE D BAG CHLOÉ AT TITUDES A ZZEDINE AL AÏA AT PAL AIS GALLIER A 4 DAYS IN PARIS HER HIM
RUSSIA UAE USA INDIA CHINA EUROPE
Publisher Cercle Ltd ® 5 Vigo Street, Mayfair, London, W1S 3HB, UK Cercle is a ® Registered Trademark.· Printing in whole or in part is expressly forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The publisher declines any responsability for manuscripts and photos sent directly. The views expressed in the magazine are those of the contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine. © 2013 - Cercle Ltd ®.· All right reserved.
8 | Issue N3
Creative Center RD, Creative Director Alvaro Maggini
Exclusive RD821 Manufacture movement Self-winding movement
The only Manufacture to be 100% Poinçon de Genève certified. The most demanding signature in fine watchmaking.
CONTENT
82
CONNECTING CIRCLES
84
CITY LIFESTYLE
90
INTERIORS
96
TRENDSPOTTERS
98
ART EVENTS
LE TRAIN BLEU MACAU
CAROLINE SARKOZY JANAINA TSCHÄPE MODERN FOLK ART
AGENDA LOUVRE ABU DHABI
10 4
AUC T IONS
106
ART FOCUS
110
IN THE MOOD FOR
114
WINE
12 0
DR EAM CARS
12 4
PL ANES
12 8
YATCHS
130
PL ACES
132
PL ACES TO STAY
136
BE AU T Y
14 0
IN CON V ER SATION W ITH
14 8
SOCIAL SEASON
162
SHOPPING LIST
LONDON TO MUMBAI LAWRIE SHABIBI ISABELLE CHAPUIS
L’ O R M A R I N S W I N E S J A G U A R F -T Y P E C O U P É TA K E S A B O W FALCON 5X MAGIC CARPET
3
SECLUDED PARADISE
DYNASTY OF SCENT HOLLY WOOD’S DERMATOLOGIST ADDRESSES PETR A NEMCOVA
K A Z & CHLOE BIRTHDAY AND ANNIVERSARY LOUIS XIII ROYAL BANQUET KARL LAGERFELD SHOP LAUNCH SEDUCED & ABANDONED PREMIÈRE AFTER PART Y
Founder & CEO GABRIELE SALVADORI . Editorial & Artistic Direction AMANDA ELIZABETH GIBBS Editorial Coordinator & Writer FELIX BISCHOF . Design & Production HELEN STELLA Public Relations & Events ALIZÉ DE BUCK & NATALIA GOMOLKA
1 0 | Issue N3
CAROLINE SC H EU FE L E MY VISION OF LIFE
Caroline Scheufele is the artistic director and Co-President of Swiss luxury watchmaker and jeweler Chopard. A constant traveller, overseeing various high impact aspects of the brand, Caroline Scheufele is a cosmopolitan businesswoman well Chopard span legendary designs such as the Happy Diamonds collection and a close connection to glamorous events, the best example being the annual ‘Cannes Film Festival’.
1 2 | Issue N3
MY VISION OF LIFE FAMILY
CRE ATIVE
The importance of family is ingrained in Chopard’s DNA and
To be able to work in a profession that allows you to be creative
we pride ourselves on being an independent company within
is a blessing. To have the facilities and the freedom to transform
the Watches and Jewellery industry. My parents, who made
something from an idea into a reality is very special and an abso-
Chopard what it is today, are still very active within the company.
lute luxury and I appreciate this every minute. Being an inde-
My brother Karl-Friedrich is in charge of the men’s division
pendent company allows us to have creative freedom which is one
whereas I act as artistic director and look after the ladies
of the greatest luxuries that a company can have. I travel a lot and
division. As a family business it is important to make all decisions
everything becomes a source of inspiration: the countries I visit,
together; of course this can be a challenge at times, but we see this
the experiences I live, the people I meet…!
predominantly as a strength.
PASSION Passion is the driving force behind all achievements, great or small, as well as being fundamental to our development and our ability to reach our full potential. It is this passion that motivates and inspires us. One of Chopard’s most important mottos is “Passion
“Passion is the driving force behind all achievements, great or small…”
for Excellence” and this is something that we endeavour to achieve in everything we do. For me the world of cinema is particularly
DIAMONDS
fascinating and I feel honoured to partner with the Cannes Film
I have always been fascinated by this mesmerising stone. As a child
Festival and to experience its magic. In 1997 I was delighted
I would visit the Chopard workshops after school and admire the
to meet Pierre Viot, the then president of The Cannes Film Festi-
exquisite nature of the diamond and its dynamic qualities. Dia-
val, who gave me the responsibility of redesigning the Palme d’Or.
monds have such a captivating nature, with the ability to transform
To have creative influence over the highest prize awarded
a woman’s personality and confidence. Nothing can compare to
at the most beautiful international Film Festival is an honour!
that distinctive incandescence that a woman projects when wearing diamonds… I have seen women transform on the big screen and in day to day life in the presence of diamonds; as Marilyn
DARING
Monroe famously stated – “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend!”
No matter what field you work in I think that it is important to you must be willing to take risks and to think outside the box.
PHILANTHROPY
I am always open to new challenges as this is what fires the imag-
I believe that when you have received a lot in life it is very
ination and keeps the brand alive. I have always found it impor-
important to help those less fortunate than yourself, this is
tant since a young age to not always remain conventional when
why Chopard is always keen to support philanthropic projects.
approaching design and in fact everyday life. My first ever design
For many years now we have supported a number of projects
was of a clown which demonstrated a playful side to jewellery that
across the board in fields of medicine, ecology, art and cul-
I believe should be explored much more often! Chopard collec-
ture. We work closely with the José Carreras Leukaemia Foun-
tions such as Animal World are a perfect demonstration of a way
dation and the Elton John AIDS Foundation as well as the Green
in which you can have fun with high jewellery yet still create
Carpet Challenge. Caring for others is fundamental to our being
beautiful and elegant pieces.
and if we are privileged enough to have the means to do so then I think there is nothing more rewarding. This year we embarked on an exciting new relationship with Petra Nemcova’s Happy Hearts Fund, a charity that dedicates itself to rebuilding schools and the lives of children after natural disasters.
1 4 | Issue N3
All images cour tesy of Chopard
be a risk taker. To stand out as an individual and indeed a brand,
Tourbillon, ref. J013033200 Ivory Grand Feu enameled dial. 18-carat red gold case. Selfwinding tourbillon movement.Power reserve of 7 days. Hours and minutes indicators at 6 o’clock, tourbillon frame at 12 o’clock. Diameter 43 mm.
WWW. JAQ U E T- D RO Z .C OM
BR I C ECONOMICS
Brands are merging traditional values with the contemporary social standard of consumerism. Goldman Sachs predicts that by 2050 the economies of Brazil, Russia, India and China will become the cial stage.
Home to 40% of the world’s population, BRIC countries have become a hot bed for luxury growth, with consumption here expected to account for 35% of the international luxury market by 2015. With bourgeoning economies, a strong financial future and an increasingly optimistic population, emerging markets are currently designing their own luxury industry model. While the BRIC markets remain hugely attractive, they are no longer growing uniformly, as they were 12 years ago when the BRIC concept was first conceived by British economist Jim O’Neill. Now they are diverging slightly with each market posing its own unique challenges, which are determined by the consumer’s concept of luxury, taxation rates and regulations. So, while international luxury brands are drawn to the ever-booming BRIC markets the home-grown luxury industry is certainly flourishing. Local companies have acquired a unique insight into the demands and expectations of their potential consumers and a strong awareness for the heritage factor to garner interest. They are, in a sense, effortlessly authentic. While this is the case, international luxury brands are unable to enter new markets with total freedom. They instead require a little assistance. Numerous European names have expanded into the Middle Eastern market and BRIC countries with the much-needed help of well-informed groups that specialise in luxury expansion. In the aftermath of the global financial crisis numerous luxury brands began to focus more on their loyal customers within the Arab world. However, with limited local input in many agencies (which were charged with introducing and expanding the labels in the region) these essentially foreign brands were unable to reach, or even appeal to their intended Middle Eastern market. So, brands and agencies quickly learnt that knowledge of advertising, marketing and the local environment was key when growing a label internationally.
Issue N3 | 1 7
ECONOMICS
MIDDLE EAST
CHINA
Agencies now play a central role in introducing international
China is the growth engine of today’s luxury industry where high-
luxury labels to the Middle East. Created in 1955, the Chal-
end consumerism is, rather traditionally, a notion intertwined
houb Group is a leading luxury conglomerate in the Middle East,
with history and refinement. Chinese high-net-worth individ-
a group of seven thousand people representing the most prestig-
uals are twenty years younger than their western counterparts,
ious brands in the beauty, fashion and gifts sector. Partnered
primarily self-made and keen to show their wealth, valuing the
with Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton, it manages over four hun-
luxury brands that allow them to do so. Still, this same group is
dred retail outlets and offers regional and local distribution
also rekindling an interest in rites and traditions and thus look-
in fourteen countries. With a corporate culture based on trust
ing to brands that acknowledge their heritage and use authentic
and respect, they strive to understand market specifics, trends
manufacturing processes.
and consumer preference, and ultimately, by creating an identifiable brand image, provide a bridge between two cultures.
This was a trend Hermès was aware of in 2008 when it founded Shang Xia, a luxury brand that strives to bring the heritage of Chinese and other Asian craftsmanship into contemporary life-
“Western brand heritage is still a desirable commodity.”
style. Essentially, it’s a local luxury brand in China, for China and sold in China. Shang Xia, which has now opened a Paris boutique, was the first separate brand to be created by Hermès and has allowed the brand, for the first time, to incur revenues from products made in China; previously high quality French manufacturing had been part of the company’s DNA. Like Hermès, Shang Xia adopts a marketing strategy driven by story telling, with its limited collection of cultural objects (each
Likewise, luxury consultancy firm Niche Arabia, founded
inspired by 5,000 years of Chinese design traditions), given its
by Marriam Mossalli, offers a unique insight into both the
own purpose and history. Just as Hermès cemented itself as an
Gulf and Western markets. Interestingly, Mossalli notes
archetypically French brand, Shang Xia is uniquely Chinese.
that “Western brand heritage is still a desirable commodity … it’s all about trends [in the region] and locals possess the purchasing power
Hong Kong-based brand and image management group Iconix
to make sure they always stay on them.” Representing a mix of inter-
China, has found the union of old and new markets to be sim-
national luxury brands, companies with luxury products in their
ilarly fruitful and works to introduce American fashion brands
portfolios and local companies, Niche Arabia focuses on strategic
into the Chinese market. To do this they acquire the Chinese
advertising, visual merchandising, media and event planning with
trademark rights for each brand in their growing portfolio. From
the overall aim being to, once again, offer a bridge into the world
this Iconix China takes a 20% equity share before entering into
of luxury. Like the Chalhoub Group, Niche Arabia helps clients
a joint venture with a local partner that sees them market the
penetrate what to them, was the otherwise enigmatic and inac-
brand and open stores throughout China. The company tar-
cessible. However, Mossalli believes that old and new markets
gets fashion-conscious consumers who rarely travel overseas
are already more integrated that one may imagine. “The luxury
but wish to invest in foreign names, designs and styles. Their abil-
market already is very close. The main consumer for luxury commonly
ity to tap into a niche market, give identifiable brands local appeal and successfully oversee the jump from an old to new market
well-educated individual. They possess an international brand aware-
has allowed them, and the brands they represent, to grow within
ness.” Clearly the notions of old and new, luxury and tradition,
China’s thriving luxury business.
West and East are becoming increasingly integrated.
1 8 | Issue N3
INDIA
BR AZIL
The Indian luxury market, which has been remarkably dynamic
Culture and national pride also play a key role in the success
over the past five years, is [slightly] more complex. Luxury stands
of luxury products in South America. A place of intense natural
here as an expression of status and personality where consum-
beauty – and ample natural resources – Brazil has a character-
ers value craftsmanship, aesthetics and service as a prime factor
istically ‘cool’ spirit and respects the brands that celebrate this.
for selection. The country’s nationals express a keen desire to suc-
Not surprisingly, local luxury labels excel here. Partly responsible
ceed while retaining a ‘proud to be Indian’ attitude. The country
for the country’s wealth, precious Brazilian stones like emerald,
is extremely diverse (which has always been part of its allure).
amethyst and aquamarine have allowed H. Stern, a local com-
There is a huge disparity in purchasing power, a rural and urban
pany that embraces Brazil’s beauty and disposition, to be fully
divide and linguistic diversity so brand culture is less emphasized and
integrated from mine to retail. The company is so intertwined
luxury tends to be steeped, to a grater extent, in traditional. Brands
with Brazil that it actively promotes it. The H. Stern world’s head-
such as Hermès and Louis Vuitton have designed saris, while Chanel
quarters in Rio de Janeiro, a city distinctively interwoven with
and Etro have used Indian inspiration for their collections.
the natural world, offers a gemmological tour (a leading tourist attraction that guides visitors around the H. Stern headquarters
Such diversity may prove to be an excellent marketing tool.
and through the brand’s history) that focus on Brazil’s cultural
Lucknow-based conglomerate Sahara Group is currently planning
riches as much as the industry and jewellers’ art. Brand, Brazil
to launch an Indian luxury chain selling ‘Made in India’ luxury
and product are promoted as being completely intertwined.
goods (including clothing and accessories) in international markets, ideally exposing global consumers to a never before seen
Luxury fashion label Osklen also possesses a thoroughly Brazilian
India. The first two stores are set to open at the Grosvenor Hotel
heart. Much like the country, the brand image is all about blend-
in London and The Plaza in New York, two properties recently
ing the natural world with the urban, with collections named after
acquired by the group. Such a venture has never been tried before
Brazilian elements and locations, and appearing both organic
so this may be the first Indian luxury brand to gain global appeal,
and pioneering. Integrated and patriotic, Osklen has developed
prospering through its ability to shine a light on the ancient,
a loyal local following through its history of environmental
enthralling and rich Indian culture.
and socio-environmental conservation. For both these brands being socially aware, authentic and distinctively Brazilian has undoubtedly aided their international expansion. Markets are shifting, luxury is international, campaigns can be adjusted
“Luxury stands here as an expression of status and personality where consumers value craftsmanship, aesthetics and service as a prime factor for selection.”
and yet the appeal of the local remains. As European luxury labels look to expand into the Middle East and BRIC markets local knowledge becomes essential. Products and marketing strategies must appeal to niche national markets, while exclusivity and heritage must also be upheld. Western brand heritage still remains a desirable commodity, local brands (aided by booming economies) are growing and innovation is embraced. With the international luxury market already incredibly integrated the future of luxury is both bright, inventive and brilliantly dynamic.
Issue N3 | 1 9
G O Y A R D
Ateliers Goyard au XIXème siècle cour tesy of Goyard
AROUND THE WORLD / RUSSI A
HIDDEN GEMS
Since opening in 1853 at 233 rue Saint-Honoré, La Maison Goyard has been the Parisian’s choice for exclusive luggage. Throughout its illustrious history, the company has stayed true to its core essence and values. by Felix Bischof
The captivating story of the company begins when Francois Goyard joins La Maison Morel, Paris leading maker of trunks, as an apprentice in 1845. La Maison Morel, operating since 1792, was legendary amongst the travelling classes, especially since acquiring another firm, La Maison Martin. Creating trunks and other exclusive pieces of luggage for Madame la Duchesse de Berry, daughter-in-law of King Charles X, La Maison Martin had firm connections to France’s aristocracy. Francois Goyard rose to prominence when, in 1853, he became the head of La Maison Morel after the former owner’s passing. The name Goyard gains international resonance from 1892 onwards, with the invention of a water resistant, sturdy canvas made from a combination of linen, cotton and hemp. The firm, which by then is managed by Francois’ son Edmond, becomes synonymous with aristocratic travel, forging a reputation far exceeding France’s borders. This is strongly supported by the trunkmaker’s recognisable trademark – now known for its four-colour motif formed of chevrons juxtaposed in the letter ‘Y’. The letter is chosen to represent both the company’s name, and as an allusion to the symbol of universal man. Visually similar to an arrangement of logs, it references the family’s former business as specialist in transporting wood by river from Bourgogne. After WWI, Robert Goyard set about expanding the company’s appeal by offering lightweight and compact pieces of luggage for a swiftly changing way of life and travels by air. While modernising his craft, Robert Goyard was also determined to preserve it, leading to his successful appointment as president of the French Association of Leather Goods Manufacturers. Since 1998, Goyard has been owned and operated by the Signoles family; themselves long time aficionados of the company’s classic designs. The family continues the tradition of Goyard while also adapting product ranges to suit the contemporary travellers.
Issue N3 | 2 1
HIDDEN GEMS
THIS PAGE Vintage Goyard Luggage OPPOSITE PAGE Boî te à Chapeau ouver te
2 2 | Issue N3
Since 2000, the classic canvas is offered in a variety of colours, including Goyards’ dazzling gold finish and a refreshing yellow, perfect for spring-time voyages! The company continually finds inspiration in its own past. Case in point is the newly opened boutique on rue Saint-Honoré. Solely catering to the desires of pets, it is inspired by Goyard’s period animalistic designs. Goyard also takes special orders, creating one-off pieces. Notable commissions include trunks made to transport tea kits, polo equipment, caviar and even folding bikes! All Goyard products are still exclusively produced in France, guaranteeing the survival of rare and highly specialised artisanal skills. Standard styles can further bear the mark of its owner through the personalisation service. This includes a rich choice of initials, stripes and coat of arms and a variety of fonts, styles and colour combinations. Notable admirers of Goyard have included Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, the Rockefellers, the Rothschild’s and the Maharaja of Kapurthala – to name but a few. Goyard’s popularity is due to its high quality and everlasting appeal. The company decided early on not to follow fast changes in fashion, but offer a select customer base continuity in style and production standards. All Goyard products are still exclusively produced in France, guaranteeing the survival of rare and highly specialised artisanal skills. Classic travel luggage convinces through its heritage rich design and adaptably to the contemporary, jet setting life. The Boîte à Chapeau is perfect for securely transporting delicate millenary creations from horse races to intimate wedding receptions. The Grand Hotel suitcase is available in four different sizes, ranging from 50 to 65 centimetres. These suitcase add the allure of period travel to both far flung journeys and your home.
Issue N3 | 2 3
Necklace in Yellow Gold with 1260ct Rubies £38,000 · Bracelet in Rose Gold with 98ct Ruby Star, 2.80ct Diamonds £24,000 Earrings in White Gold with Peridot, Rubellite, Opal, Pink Tourmaline £14,000 · Ring in Rose Gold with Tourmaline Price on Application
precious sealife All jewelry by Pintaldi Maurizio
To discover more email info@gem-a-porter.com
2 4 | Issue N3
Earrings in Rose Gold with Yellow, Orange, Paraiba and Green Tourmalines, Black diamonds £38,000 · Bracelet in White Gold with Aquamarine £7000 Ring in Yellow Gold with 9.90ct Black Diamonds £18,000 · Ring in Rose Gold with 39ct Australian Opal £24,000
Necklace in Rose Gold with Pearls (14-18), Tourmaline, Diamonds £75,0000 · Ring in Rose Gold with Tourmaline, Tanzanite, Diamonds £18,000 Multicolour Pearls ring in Rose Gold £16,000 · Pearl Ring in Yellow Gold £11,000 · Knitted Ring in White Gold with Diamonds £9000
JEWEL STORY
2 6 | Issue N3
Necklace in Rose Gold with 9150ct Tanzanite Beads £65,000 · Bracelet in Rose Gold with 1118ct Rose Cut Tanzanites £28,000 Ring in Rose Gold with 38ct Tanzanite £14,000 · Waves Ring in Rose Gold with 1.80ct Diamonds £11,000
Gr and Prix d’ Horlogerie de Genève WATCH STORY
The 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie honoured new developments, skilful designs and the innovative interpretation of a centuries old craft.
2 8 | Issue N3
Images cour tesy of GPHG
WATCH STORY
“A I G U I L L E D ' O R ” G R A N D P R I X
GR ANDE COMPLICATION PRIZE
GI R A R D -PE R R EG AU X
A. L A NGE & SÖHNE
Constant Escape ment L .M.
1815 R a t t ra p a n t e P e r p e t u a l C a l e n d a r
Constant Escapement L.M. showcases an entirely new, patented,
A. Lange & Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar combines
architecture and design of the Escapement. The watch uses inno-
a multitude of horological complications, including a power
vative materials, such as 14 micron silicon in the buckled-blade,
reserve indicator and moon-phase display. The highly developed
a material six times thinner than human hair. A double twin
mechanism is visible via the sapphire-chrystal caseback.
barrel allows for long power reserve and linear indicator.
www.alange-soehne.com
www.girard-perregaux.com
L ADIES' WATCH PRIZE
L A DIE S' COMPLICATIONS WATCH PRIZE
DEL A NE AU
VA N C L E E F & A R PE L S
R o n d o Tra n sl u c i d e C h a m p a g n e
L ady Arpels Baller ine Enchantée
This self-winding mechanical is a new take on enameled watch
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée continues the
dials. Continuing the play with light, the watch also has a single
brand’s long standing fascination with mythical creatures and the
precious stone at the 12 o’clock position. Translucent Champagne,
world of dance. The golden ballerina is sculpted in relief and set
limited to a single piece, adds 272 diamonds to the red gold case
with diamonds. To show the hour of the day, the outer veils of the
and a luxurious lizard strap. The red gold tongue buckle is set
dancer open via an inner corolla.
with 24 diamonds.
3 0 | Issue N3
www.delaneau.com
www.vancleefarpels.com
JE WELLERY WATCH PRIZE
ARTISTIC CR AF TS WATCH PRIZE
C HOPA R D
CHANEL
L' H e u r e d u D i a m a n t
Made moiselle Pr ivé Camélia Brodé
Requiring hundreds of hours of work, Chopard’s L’Heure du
Chanel’s Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Brodé celebrates Coco Chanel's
Diamant marks the company's time intensive support of the
preferred flower with an intricate Haute Couture embroidery by
different, highly specialised trades needed to create a masterpiece
La Maison Lesage. Numbered and limited to only 18 pieces,
of timekeeping. A dazzling combination of navette, baguette and
the 18K white gold case is set with 562 brilliant-cut diamonds.
brilliant cut diamonds are set within 18K rose gold.
The 18K white gold crown is set with an onyx cabochon.
www.chopard.com
www.chanel.com/en_GB/Watches
INNOVATION PRIZE
RE VIVAL PRIZE
V I A N N E Y H A LT E R
TUDOR
D e e p S p a c e To u r b i l l o n
He r itage Black Bay
Vianney Halter presented the Deep Space Tourbillon after a six
The Heritage Black Bay by Tudor is inspired by the mystery of lost
year creative break. The watch explores the universe as a
treasures and hidden enclaves. The design is informed by a period
Tourbillon cage
diving model from 1954, and features a burgundy colour bezel and
rotates in a mere 40 seconds. The time is shown by hour and
pink gold
minute hands surrounding the triple axis Tourbillon
a black fabric strap and a steel bracelet, or with a black fabric strap
in a 4-dimension-space representation.
and additional aged leather strap.
www.vianney-halter.com
hands. The Heritage Black Bay is available with
www.tudorwatch.com
Issue N3 | 3 1
HUBLOT WATCH STORY
By innovating their craft with ground breaking designs, Hublot is the driving force behind contemporary watchmaking. In the 1980s Hublot pioneered the creative concept of the ‘Art of Fusion’. Combining precious materials with rubber, the watches surprised and delighted industry and watch devotees alike. Since then, the company has grown rapidly, developing award winning designs and investing in research to maintain a cutting-edge expertise. Recent success can be credited to Mr Jean-Claude Biver’s singular vision, who took the reins at Hublot in 2004. Shortly after his appointment, the company released the Big Bang Chronograph. Its signature design features, sharper corners and six screws passing directly through the case, maintained the brand concept of Fusion and set a high standard of contemporary design within the industry. The Big Bang has won countless awards and records. Through Jean-Claud Biver’s management, Hublot reported an almost tenfold increase in just four years. Since 2008, the company forms part of the prestigious LVMH Group. Hublot continues to strive for perfection and innovation. Since 2009, the brand operates a 6,000m2 high-tech manufacture site set on the banks of Lake Geneva. Currently, this impressive investment is dedicated to the creation of the UNICO movement, a column-wheel chronograph integrated into the dial side. This innovation is conceived, developed and produced in its entity by Hublot as well as Grand watch Complications. Taking the original concept of fusion further, Hublot continues to strive for leadership in material research and combinations. True to its iconic creative concept, the watch maker places innovative materials, including King Gold (red gold with 5% platinum), carbon fibre, magnesium and zirconium, beside classic components the likes of platinum, rubber and diamonds. Fusion thereby connects materials of different value, and tradition with innovation. Furthermore, the concern has developed Hublot exclusive high-tech materials, such as Magic Gold, a scratch resistant 18 carat gold, which is produced in an in-house foundry installed in 2011. Hublot watches are sold worldwide via 750 points of sale and 60 boutiques and in standalone located within the world’s most luxurious addresses. Three new and exciting additions to the brand’s impressive offerings confirm its leading position. Big Bang Boa Bang and Big Bang Black Fluo are both fashion forward updates to Hublot’s iconic Big Bang. Since its official launch in 2005, the Big Bang has become a design legend within the art of luxury timepiece. It has been selected as best watch at Wallpaper magazine’s 2007 Design Awards, and won the prize for best design at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The Classic Fusion Chronograph is an elegant, time less creation, available in two distinctive styles.
3 2 | Issue N3
WATCH STORY
BIG BANG BOA BANG After the ground-breaking success of the Leopard version of Hublot’s Big Bang watch, the Boa Bang incorporates the luxurious, exotic lustre of snake skin. Created to be added as a highlight to any outfit, the watch strap features Python snake applied onto black rubber. The Boa Bang comes in two versions, using either industrial chic steel or precious 18K red gold. For both designs, Hublot offers either a brown or green snakeskin version. Each of the resulting four versions is highly limited, with only 250 watches available. The watchcase measures 41mm in diameter for all versions. The brown snakeskin version’s bezel features 48 baguette andalusites, dark smoky quartz, smoky quartz and transparent smoky quartz. In green, the bezel features 48 pale green baguette tsavorites, tourmalines and pale green sapphires. The watchface crystal is sapphire with interior and exterior anti-reflective coating. The dial features either a green or brown Boa print. Indexes are marked with eight diamonds, their total weight being of 0.14 carats. While the Big Bang Boa Bang is a truly fashionable, eye catching accessory, it is also a true beaconof the watchmaker’s craft. All versions feature the HUB4300 automatic mechanical movement and are water resistant to approximately 100 metres. The power reserve is a generous 42 hours.
BIG BA NG BL ACK Fluo The Big Bang watch has a further re-creation, in the shades of vibrant neon! Adding a stand out element to sombre, elegant black, this timepiece comes in four versions each highly limited to 250. The four different accent colours of choice are blue, yellow, pink and green and all measure 41mm. The colourful intonations stem from a selection of highly valuable, precious materials. The bezel is set with 36 Sapphires in blue, yellow or pink sapphires and green tsavorites. A sought after model features tsavorites for a thrilling fluorescent green effect. The black PVD steel case and black dial of all four versions are set with an astounding 430 black diamonds, weighing total of 2.36 carats. Inside, the timepiece features 278 components, including 37 jewels to create the HUB4300 automatic chronograph movement.
CL A SSIC FUSION Chronograph This watch is already a classic due to its high potential as a future heirloom. In keeping with the company’s pioneering spirit, the Classic Fusion Chronograph is the first Hublot watch combining a Classic Fusion with a chronograph movement. The watch is presented in two distinctive versions, either minimal Satin polished titanium or 18K King Gold. Both versions feature a matt black dial, two timers, baton indices and a date window at six o’clock. The Classic Fusion Chronograph measures 45mm in diameter. The bezel features six titanium H-shaped countersunk with polished and locked screws The Hands are faceted, diamond-polished, skeleton, rhodium-plated or King Gold colour depending on the version. The timepiece’s movement is a highly developed HUB1143 Automatic mechanical chronograph, with a staggering 280 components. The watch features 59 jewels and has a power reserve of approximately 42 reassuring hours. The strip in both versions is black rubber and has a deployant buckle.
3 4 | Issue N3
Alba Carillo, wearing the Zebra Bang 41mm | All images cour tesy of Hublot
W W
WAT C H E S & WO N DE R S
3 6 | Issue N3
WATCH STORY
This year, Hong Kong played host to the most illustrious names within the realm of luxury timepieces. The exhibition and show ‘Watches and Wonders’, organised by the ‘Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie’, of its kind in Asia. Located at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, the event took place several months after the traditional SIHH in Switzerland. Traditionally a highlight for watch aficionados, the Geneva based event is strictly committed to retailers and media. In contrast, Watches and Wonders opened its doors to a multitude of visitors, from diverse professional backgrounds. United in an avid interest in the displayed craft and beauty of time keeping, the event’s organisers estimate attendance at a record breaking number of visitors. Piaget, Montblanc, Jaeger-LeCoutre, Panerai and Vacheron Constantin are amongst the thirteen exhibitors, with the list of brands present reading like a ‘who’s who’ of contemporary luxury watch making. Brands were delighted to introduce their latest innovative designs to the ever-expanding Chinese luxury watch market. Currently seen as the fastest growing market in Asia Pacific, the emphasis of during this pioneering event was not primarily on retail but on sharing and displaying stories of innovation and craft. The show also offered the possibility to further educate a relatively new market and initiate conversations with international watch collectors. Timepieces displayed showed a contemporary take on heritage, inviting consumers of the Asian market to explore the wonders of European tradition that is Watches and Wonders. Celebrated during the event was also the skillset of artisans; crafting luxury time pieces on site. Highlighting the interaction with the people behind the scene of the watch manufacturing business; visitors seemed delighted to witness the experience of watch making. A cultural highlight of the anticipated expo was the curated exhibition The Making of Time. Named after the famous book by historian Dominique Felchon, this display featured one hundred priceless artefact and timepieces. The exhibition traced the history and legacy of recording the hours of the day, both ephemeral and concrete. The exhibition placed ancient astronomy and more recent developments in historical context. Visitors marvelled at key developments, from Galileo Galilei’s Pendulum to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s perpetual self-winding watches conceived in the 18th century.
Issue N3 | 3 7
WATCH STORY
PI AGET
ROGER DUBUIS
Limelight Gala
E xca l i bu r Q u a t o u r T i t a n i u m B l a ck DL C
Based on a design from 1973, the watch is traditional yet utterly
The newest addition to the successful, warrior inspired,
contemporary. The round shaped centrepiece is balanced with
Excalibur series is mad of titanium black DLC, offering
extended asymmetrical lugs and a bezel set with brilliant-cut
both an understated, refined finish and protection against
diamonds. With its slight connotations of the Yin and Yang
the elements. It features a RD101 movement, with four sprung
symbol and diamond snake, the Limelight Gala is sure to have
balances working dually to provide precision.
sizable impact on the Asian market.
www.rogerdubuis.com
www.piaget.com
R ICHAR D MILLE
PA N E R A I
R M 58 - 01
R a d i o m i r 194 0
The case for this tourbillon masterpiece requires almost 200 sepa-
This special edition is a re-launch, highlighting Panerai’s exclusive
rate parts. The fixed bezel and the case back are created from
heritage. The hand wound calibre convinces with a power reserve
5N 18K red gold, and the case middle from 5 titanium. It also
of eight days, due to three barrels. The bridges and tow barrels
features a new multiple time zone modification appliance.
are skeletonised, allowing a glimpse of intricate workmanship
www.richardmille.com
through the back.
3 8 | Issue N3
www.panerai.com
VAC H E RO N CONSTA NTIN
P a t r i m o n y C o n t e m p o ra i n e U l t ra T h i n C a l i b r e 1731
Vacheron Constantin premiered the slimmest minute repeater timepiece currently available, at 3.90mm and 8.09mm respectively. Reminiscent of mid century design, it is inspired by the brand’s own heritage.
www.vacheron-constantin.com
MONTBLANC
A. L A NGE & SĂ–HNE
G ra n d C o m p l i c a t i o n
The German watchmakers presented a highly complex piece perfect for the cosmopolitan lifestyle. It features a perpetual calendar, with all time telling displays advancing together at midnight, apart from the moon-phase indicator. It also features a highly precise stopwatch with ratrapante and a seconde foudroyante ability. www.alange-soehne.com
J A E G E R- L E C O U LT R E
E x oTo u r b i l l o n R a t t ra p a n t e
M a s t e r G ra n d To u r b i l l o n E n a m e l
Part of the legendary Collection Villeret 1858, the ExoTourbillon
This breath-taking time piece rejuvenates the century old craft
Rattrapante is a manifest to high craftsmanship. This split-seconds
of engraving and enamelling. The dial features exclusive white
mechanism requires a lot more components that a conventional
gold, and baguette cut diamonds.
www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
chronograph, and is entirely made by hand. www.montblanc.com
Issue N3 | 3 9
SIHH
Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 20
th
- 2 4 th J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4
For over twenty years, SIHH has set the tone for exclusive timepieces. Creating a dialogue between producer and market place, the highly limited guest list for SIHH 2014 will include 12,500 timepiece insider. Sixteen leading brands will exhibit on 30,000 square meters. Expect the latest innovations, celebrations of unique heritage, and pure luxury at this industry event! As every year, SIHH will also fundraise for an annually chosen project. Scheduled brands read like a who’s who of luxury watches, with Piaget, Panerai, Montblanc and Baume & Mercier attending among others. SIHH is organised by the prestigious ‘Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie’ (FHH) and, since 2007, the SIHH Exhibitor Committee. Part of the Committee, which decides on the exhibition’s overall stance, contains the CEOs of the exhibiting brands. SIHH 2014 IS OPEN FROM MONDAY 20 24 (EXCEPT
th
th
JANUARY TO FRIDAY
JANUARY 2014, FROM 8.30AM TO 7PM
THURSDAY
JANUARY
2 3 rd,
OPEN
UNTIL
8.30PM).
EN T R A NCE IS FOR AC CREDI T ED V ISI TOR S ONLY.
4 0 | Issue N3
FR ANC VIL A WATCH STORY
All images cour tesy of Franc Vila
Frank Vila’s intricate creations invest the traditional craft of watch making with contemporary developments. Using the latest technical innovations, all components, from case to mechanism and crown, are designed in a unifying approach. For the wearer, this means watches of exceptional quality, design and timeless style.
4 2 | Issue N3
N E O A LTA South American Editions Frank Vila revisits its already iconic Neo Alta design. Celebrating the brand’s fruitful relationship with South America, the watch features colours and icons evocative of the joyful spirit of countries such as Argentina, Brazil, Guatemala and Mexico. This edition marks the third version of Neo Alta. While preserving the successful combination of classic and contemporary, the South American Editions benefit from a newly proportioned case alluding to a Neo-Classicism and the suave spirit of the 1970s - while keeping Frank Vila’s Esprit Unique. A simple, refined carbon fibre dial highlights the classic display of hours and minutes, while the seconds are shown on a disc set at 6 o’clock. The bracelet, in the Brazil version kept in the country’s significant green, is made of a V-Tex, a synthetic material known for its longevity and absolute comfort. While Neo Alta’s South American Editions are dynamic in design, they also continue Frank Vila’s famous skills of traditional timepiece making. The case and bezel are in black DieHard steel, and the watch is water resistant to 100 metres. The mechanical movement is the high quality self-winding Fvn19, which is assembled and finished by hand. The Frank Vila Exclusive Gold Concept Rotor features 21 jewels, with 28,800 vibrations per hour.
C O B R A F V 18 E Manual Suspended Skeleton Frank Vila’s Cobra collection, which marks the initial development of the case that launched the company’s Esprit Unique, has now been revived via a skeleton version. The Cobra FV 18E Manual Suspended Skeleton is a highly developed manifest to Frank Vila’s craft, and the poetry of time. Inspired by French writer Alphonse de Lamartine’s “O time, suspend ”, the watch allows a view of the internal movement by eliminating the dial and replacing it with the glass of the bezel. The Cobra FV 18E Manual Suspended Skeleton is a true masterpiece of innovation in luxury watch making. The watch movement is in total suspension, benefiting from an inventive system of internal springs. The main plate and bridges have been sand-blasted, diamond finished and treated with NAC. The barrel is held in place by a sliding bar, preventing possible damage caused by excessive winding of the movement. The Esprit Unique shape features an elliptical and circular bezel. The design is limited to 88 pieces.
Issue N3 | 4 3
S.E.A. of LU XURY WORLD LUXURY CONFERENCES The 2013 International New York Times Luxury Conference took place at the Capella Singapore at the end of November. Now in its thirteenth year, the conference discussed and highlighted the luxury market in Southeast Asia. With an ever growing demand for luxury products, and a rising awareness of the area’s own produce, the symposium explored both aspects in depth. Invited by the International New York Time’s fashion editor, the panel included decision maker with various fashion backgrounds, from brands to publishing. Domenic De Sole, president of Tom Ford International, expanded on the development and expansion of brand footprint in Asia, while Pearl Lam, founder of the eponymous galleries, discussed Asia’s cultural place in the contemporary world. Other speakers included Caroline Scheufele of Chopard, Grégoire Blanche of Cartier and HRH Princess
Image cour tesy of S.E. A . of Luxur y
Marie-Chantal. The conference also introduced home-grown talent, such as fashion designer Huishan Zhang.
4 4 | Issue N3
VERONICA CHOU MY FAVORITES
Counted among Asia’s most powerful women, Veronica Chou is a truly international style setter. The Golden Girl takes time to share her thoughts, beliefs and preferences.
4 6 | Issue N3
MY FAVOURITES
SARTORIAL Signature
Necessary E X T R AVA G A N Z A
I don’t really have a signature wardrobe item, but you will often
Very very good Internet! For us living in big cities, such as
find me in various Michael Kors pieces, and when you see them,
London, New York and Hong Kong, Internet doesn’t seem like
you’ll know that they are Michael Kors. His pieces are often
an extravagance, but once you start travelling, you realize how
luxurious, comfortable, easy to match, but best of all classic
important fast Internet is! Internet is China is slower, and often
with a fashion twist. Cashmere sweaters, shift dresses, leather
blocked by censorship. And while I went to Africa with my hus-
skirts, and throw in some colour. He makes clothes for all
band for work – or when cruising on a boat in Ibiza and Greece
different types of women, and for sure we always look very pol-
this summer – there are so many times I wished there was stable
ished and glamorous in his clothes.
Internet! Internet has become such an important part of our lives – not just for work – but also for everyday information.
M y DE S T I NAT IONS Travelling is my life! With homes and offices in Hong Kong,
T H E WAT C H I l o v e
Beijing and London, and also offices in Shanghai and Paris,
The watch I love the most, is my husband’s MB&F Legacy Machine
my husband and I are constantly travelling; we fly almost
N°1, it really is a work of art and technology. Everyone who sees
every four days! We are quite lucky, because we usually do not
it is mesmerized by it. Unfortunately, it is too big for me, but
get jet-lagged. Some people dread flying, but I quite enjoy it;
at least I can see it all the time on my husband. I have a few
with my phones off, I can work, watch a movie or sleep. Some-
luxury watches; a Rolex, a Piaget, a Chopard, a vintage Aude-
times, I even wish the flights were longer! But because we travel
mars Piguet, but recently I bought four Karl Lagerfeld watches.
so much for work, when holidays come, the suggestion is always
They are fun, stylish affordable fashion watches, which I treat
to stay home. Although we always end up in some fun destination
more like bracelets and accessories, plus they are very well made;
for some snow or sun!
in different styles and colours, they match my many outfits!
4 8 | Issue N3
“Travelling is my life, with homes and Beijing and London, Shanghai and Paris.�
MY FAVOURITES
Dream BAG My most recent purchase is a 6-colour 35cm vintage Hermès Birkin, it is so rare and unique, whilst keeping the classic and elegant Birkin look. Actually, it wasn’t really my purchase, but an early first year wedding anniversary present from my husband. I love the bag, because all the colours match both my edgier fashion look or classic weekend outfits. And it is a good size to fit all the many things I carry around!
My PL AY LIST I’m not a big music person. In fact, I didn’t listen to music growing up, and hence I am quite ignorant on many of the classics. I went through a phase of loving rock and pop rock. Nowadays, I have some music with me, but usually just the typical ones from the top hits, and I pay special attention to Jay-Z and Madonna, because I have launched their fashion brands, Rocawear and Material Girl, in China. I’m lucky to have friends with good music taste, and I can just get a great selection of music from them!
MY
RESTAUR ANT
Wag yu Kaiseiki Den,
Japanese restaurant in Hong Kong, with our own personal fridge for our own meat . M Y F A S H I O N INSPIR ATION TRE ATMENT
My mother . M Y
SPA
A quick 15min shoulder mas-
sage. It relaxes and rejuvenates me immediately! MY CAR
Mercedes Benz G-63 Brabus (aka G-wag-
on) . M Y
S T A T I O N A R Y 6-colour Muji
pen for colour coding my monthly A4 iCal printouts . M Y N E W S P A P E R
Business of Fashion
– a fresh take on my industry . M Y S H O P P I N G DESTINATION
Moda Operandi – I can pre-or-
Images by Chen Man / Veronica Chou
der straight from the runway and have the most fashionable pieces, and they have a great selection of current season pieces too! . M Y
G A D G E T iPhone
for Instagram! Follow me on veronicaisnowmrsk . M Y FLOWER
I don't like real flowers, because I hate
to see them die. You can get me paper, plush, toy flowers instead that can be beautiful too . M Y B E A U T Y P R O D U C T Full range of Chanel skincare
Issue N3 | 5 1
The D BAG ICONIC
Tod’s D Bag Collection
The Making of an Icon: The D.D. Bag
by Sara Brajovic & Felix Bischof
5 2 | Issue N3
D -Bag 2014
Since 1997, Tod’s D Bag Collection has been a seamless companion to the house’s legendary loafers and driving shoes. The company, developed by Dorino Della Valle in the 1940s from a small shoe factory in Casette D’Ete, in the Italian Marche region, created a bag that mirrored contemporary design, while maintaining its timeless spirit. The bag’s elegant design features have become a signature in their own right and, combined with a discreet logo, have pioneered a new approach to the cult of the IT bag. A central-stitched seam and rolled handles with an ‘almond’ shaped end speak of the understated luxury at home in its country of origin, Italy. The D Bag also marks Tod’s celebration of traditional manufacturing techniques. The D Bag Collection adheres to Tod’s revered philosophy, guaranteeing that each item is entirely ‘Made in Italy’. All Tod’s products require a variety of highly developed skills applied to every step of production, from the initial research to the assembly. The production of the D Bag demands a special technique, requiring heritage skills which are often passed down the family tree. Each artisan is specialised in one specific production aspect, with the finished bag having been sculpted by about forty hands. The steps include the selection and precise cutting of leather, finishing the signature handle by hand, attaching it to the bag and painting the raw leather edges, which requires the steadiest of hands! When first created in 1997, Diego Della Valle, president of Tod’s, named the bag after one of its early fans, Princess Diana. At the time the most photographed woman, Diana was seen taking the bag from official commitments into her private life engagements, perfectly displaying the bag’s versatility and creating huge international demand. Recently, the stylish tome Timeless Icon, once again reminds of Diana’s effortless elegance. The book features six captivating images with her beloved classic leather tote. A recent biopic, starring Naomi Watts as Diana, uses the bag to complete the on screen character. Interestingly, the D Bag has recently been adopted by another contemporary princess, the Duchesse of Cambridge.
Issue N3 | 5 3
ICONIC
D -Bag 2014
Since its inauguration, Tod’s D Bag has been adapted slightly, with different versions accommodating the wearer’s changing wardrobe and lifestyle. New versions enhance the original shape and structure regularly with intricate details and new methods to sculpt the leathers. However, the bag steadfastly remains true to its original, successful, mould. Launched in 2005, the New D Bag is a more ‘relaxed’ version of the original for the new millennium, using butter soft, unlined leather. Available in four sizes, the bag is adoptable to a variety of requirements, from business travels to romantic evening dates. Four years later, in 2009, the D-Bag uses rare, precious leathers, lining and a more rigid yet feminine design to modernise the classic tote. In 2013, Tod’s releases the D.D. Bag, whose top zip has an added long leather zip for elegant convenience. For 2014, Tod’s once again offers a new yet classically elegant version. The four sizes of the D - Bag are cube shaped and come in a rich variety of materials, including exotic skins and sumptous furs. Contrasting colour panels visually invigorate the design. The D Styling Bag applies signature details to a range of day and evening bags. New designs mirror Alessandra Facchinetti’s work as Tod’s creative director, a post she filled in February 2013. For the SS14 collection, Facchinetti reworked wardrobe classics such as the trouser suit and the shirt dress, using leather in innovative ways. The highest standards of quality, a loyal following, and the courage to update an iconic design regularity – the D Bag is a true modern day Icon.
5 4 | Issue N3
Issue N3 | 5 5
Princess Diana and the original D Bag Icon
AROUND THE WORLD / RUSSI A
THIS PAGE © rights reser ved © Photographer Patrick Demarchelier OPPOSITE PAGE © rights reser ved © Estate of Antonio Lopez & Juan Ramos
FASHION
STORIES
CHLOÉ Attitudes Published by Rizzoli, Chloé Attitudes celebrates the fashion house’s diamond anniversary. In 1952, Egypt born Gaby Aghion presented the first collection of prêt à porter garments. Transferring the Parisian skills of Haute Couture to readily available clothes, Chloé was the first house to address the needs of the modern woman. Throughout the last sixty years, this French institution’s has continually updated its look while developing a firm signature. Several now famous designers have honed their craft while working for the label, including Martine Sitbon, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo. From 1968 onwards Karl Lagerfeld’s designs for the fashion house continually surprised clients and press by finding inspiration in Surrealism and fashion’s multi-faceted history. In the picture below, original supermodel Pat Cleveland models one of Lagerfeld’s designs for the Autumn/ Winter collection of 1971. Captured by Juan Ramos at Café Bonaparte Paris, the coat’s sculpted cut and dramatic patent belt resonates with the era’s joie de vivre, while its romantic hue is unmistakably Chloé. The book includes works of iconic photographers, including Guy Bourdin, Patrick Demarchelier and Mario Testino. Alongside art direction by Marc Asoli, Chloé Attitudes features 300 colour photographs and insightful texts by Sarah Mower.
Issue N3 | 5 7
FASHION STORIES
A ZZEDINE AL AÏA AT PA L A I S G alli e ra Until the 26th of January, catch the most breath taking creations by Tunisian fashion designer Azzedine Alaïa in a retrospective curated by Olivier Saillard. The exhibition also marks the re-opening of the museum. Slightly raised, opaque display platforms act as stage to garments that have become design legends. Referred to as the King of Cling, Azzedine Alaïa became primarily know as a highly skilled made-to-measure dressmaker. Counting Louise de Vilmorin, Arletty and Greta Garbo as clients and friends, he showed his first public collection in 1979, at the advice of his friend Thierry Mugler. Since then, both his iconoclastic style and show schedule have been eagerly followed. Alaïa's exceptional skill at cutting fabrics, use of zips to mould garments and innovations in the use of materials have garnered the fashion house a loyal international following and countless official honours, including two Fashion Oscars in 1985.
5 8 | Issue N3
THIS PAGE Alaïa, Shor t dress with panther anamorphous motive Fall / Winter 2010 Knitted wool and spandex jacquard Mr Alaïa personal archives © Drawing by Aurore de la Morinerie - 2013 Alaïa, Long sheath dress known as ‘powder puf f ’ Spring/Summer 1994 Fluf f y stretch rayon strips Mr Alaïa personal archives © Drawing by Aurore de la Morinerie - 2013 OPPOSITE PAGE © Pierre Antoine
RUSSI A / AROUND THE WORLD
J EWELLERS 22 O L D B O N D S T R E E T LONDON W1S 4PY +4 4 2 0 7 4 9 3 9 8 3 3
SINCE
1860
RUE DU RHÔNE 29 1204 GENÈVE +41 22 319 7100
c h at i l a . c o m
RUSSI A / AROUND THE WORLD
4 DAYS IN PAR IS FASHION STORIES
For a week in autumn at the Paris SS14 Fashion Week, life was a whirlwind of new ‘prêt à porter’ creations, indulgent food and ‘joie de vivre’.
Issue N3 | 6 1
FASHION STORIES
R E STAU R A N T GUY Savoy Residing in this tranquil Paris street since 1987, the restaurant on rue
revealed a delicious interior after being gently covered in a warm exotic
Troyon has been awarded three Michelin stars and four stars in the
fruit accompaniment. A signature dish of Guy Savoy is the delicious
Butting Gourmand amongst other honours. The interior is designed by
artichoke soup, its earthy flavour framed by shaving of black truffle
Jean-Michel Wilmotte, featuring an engaging selection of contem-
and a layered brioche with mushrooms and truffle butter. A dessert
porary art. Each dish is presented by the attentive staff, an elegant
trolley with various treats adds a sense of nostalgia to this thoroughly
performance which celebrates both ingredients and their prepara-
exclusive meal. All ingredients are delivered daily by suppliers steeped
tion. Highlights include fresh salmon, poached at the table via ice
in France’s culinary heritage. We highly recommend the Colours, Tex-
and hot water, a starter of luxurious caviar accompanied by a frothy
tures and Savours set menu, which display the cook’s honed skills at best.
emulsion served via the cracking of an egg, and a chocolate globe that
Credits: Carine Polito
6 2 | Issue N3
TELL US ABOUT THE CONCEPT BEHIND THE PARIS GUY
SAVOY
RESTAUR ANT!
The concept behind the Guy Savoy
restaurant in Paris is to highlight, on the highest level, the great variety of products existing in France. . Y O U R P E R S O N A L F A V O R I T E D I S H T O P R E P A R E IN
THE
RESTAUR ANT?
All my dishes. . Y O U R
FAVORITE DISH TO SERVE AT HOME?
PERSONAL
For five persons at least,
a prime rib of beef with French fries. When I'm alone, some bread with a thick slice of very cold butter with a sardine in oil. . H O W H A S D I N I N G I N P A R I S CHANGED SINCE YOU OPENED THE FIRST GUY SAVOY RESTAUR ANT?
More and more restaurants show both quality and personality,
in all styles. I see the variety of nationalities always increasing: we welcome the whole planet in our restaurant.
FASHION STORIES
C AT WA L K Jea n Pa ul G AU LT I E R Maintaining his status as the city’s Enfant Terrible, Jean Paul Gaultier showed a collection full of vibrant prints, clashing textures and bold accessories. Witnessed by countless Front Row regulars the likes of Catherine Deneuve and Farida Khelfa, garments were presented in a setting and choreography reminiscent of Paris’ most dazzling entertainment spectacles. Dancing models, amongst them Karlie Kloss, paraded creations inspired by a clash of music styles, from Flamenco to Hip Hop and Rockabilly. Just off the catwalk, a panel of judges rated the models rhythmic performances, with Coco Rocha’s imitation of John Travolta’s You’re the One that I Want a firm favourite. The clothes re-interpreted Gaultier’s classic designs. Romantic net tutus were shown with tough leather jackets and everyday objects such as dressmaker pins and portfolio covers were elevated to luxurious prints on silk and chiffon. A black silk tuxedo was turned into a glamorous cat suit, its one-legged cut reminding of David Bowie’s Zigg y Stardust stage outfits. Credits: Patrice Stable p/o Jean Paul Gaultier
C AT WA L K ELIE SAAB Inspired by a romantic garden, Lebanese fashion designer Elie Saab revealed a collection of glamorous yet delicate dresses. Using a mere four colours – coral, red, white, black and deep green – the difference lay in ornate surface decoration. Intricate beading, hand woven lace and flower motifs were used in according colours. Sheer panelling created an interplay of skin and fabric, resonating light and colour. Favourite piece: a full-length black silk and chiffon dress. Its lavish skirt elegantly revealing the models legs through bands of black lace carefully applied to black chiffon. Credits: Elie Saab
6 4 | Issue N3
HOTEL H YAT T Madeleine The five star boutique hotel is ideally located on boulevard Malesherbes, within walking distance of rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the Louvre and Opéra. The Suite on the 7th floor, which has its own lounge and rooftop terrace allows to marvel at one of the best views of the city including the Eiffel Tower and Église Saint-Augustin de Paris. The hotel also features an intimate and quiet spa area. Meeting rooms are neither too big nor too small, allowing for elegant get-togethers – practical yet intimate.
CAFÉ Le CASTIGLIONE This restaurant turns into Paris Fashion Week’s unofficial headquarters several times a year. On a recent visit, Nathalie Massanet was spotted enjoying a light lunch, while the neighbouring table discussed an upcoming photo shoot with Terry Richardson. The restaurant serves elegant yet invigorating breakfasts, such as scrambled eggs with smoked salmon or Greek yoghurt with exotic fruits and wholesome muesli. At lunch, French classics such as Soup à l’Onion are served alongside contemporary additions. The Caesar Salad is rumoured to be a favourite staple amongst the editors of American Vogue, and Sofia Coppola is known to enjoy the classic Hamburger. While the outside tables offer the best sport to see and be seen, Le Castiglione’s interior has everything a classic French bistro should have! Credits: Didier Legrand
Issue N3 | 6 5
WISHLIST / HER
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1. Lisa Marie Fernandez ‘Farrah Maillot’ Swimsuit in Army Neoprene · 2. Delfina Delettrez ‘Eight Dots Ring in Diamond' · 3. Prada SS14 Printed Fur Coat · 4. Italia Independent Sunglasses · 5. Lara Bohinc ‘Sun and Moon Bracelet’ in Sterling Silver · 6. Chopard ‘Happy Spor t Chrono Watch’ · 7. Burberr y Prorsum Translucent Vinyl Dress · 8. Barbara Casasola ‘Layered Pleated Midi Dress in Black and Nude Cady with Black Organza’ 9. Aquazzura ‘Hard Rock ’ Black Boots · 10. Christian Louboutin ‘So Kate’ P y thon Shoes
HIM / WISHLIST
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7.
8.
9. 1. Dunhill Bespoke White Silk Tuxedo · 2. Chopard ‘L.U.C. Perpetual T 18-Carat Rose Gold’ 3. Avrone Limited Edition Sunglasses · 4. Dunhill Bourdon Poker Set · 5. Piaget ‘Emperador Cushion-shaped Cufflinks’ · 6. Bottega Veneta Charcoal Painted Light Worsted Wool Jacket 7. Burberr y Leather and Pony Gloves · 8. Bottega Veneta Sergeant Parachute Madras Sfumato Brera Note · 9. Hublot Big Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic 45mm
Issue N3 | 6 7
journeys and sou venirs AROUND THE WORLD
Explore a hidden palace in Russia, meet Waris Ahluwalia and get lost in Miles Redd’s Upper East Side interiors. Words by Felix Bischof
Issue N3 | 6 9
AARROOUUNNDD TTHHEE WWOORRLLDD / / RRUUS SS SI IAA
Y USUPOV PAL ACE Letting the eye wander along the peaceful waters of the Moika River, the visitor to St. Petersburg can’t miss a majestic yellow palace. Known as Yusupov Palace or Moika Palace, the building was initially erected by architect Jean-Baptiste Vallin de la Mothe in 1770. Today, the building’s rich collection of diverse details bears witness to the large number of famous architects who have since worked on the palace. The current prevailing appearance of Ysusupov Palace dates to the 1830s, when architect Mikhailov renovated the abode to the Yusupov family’s exacting standards. From 1830 to 1917, Moika Palace was owned by the House of Yusupov, an economically and culturally influential family. Avid art collector active during the time of Imperial Russia, Yusupov Palace was once home to over the 40,000 works of art, including important pieces by Rembrandt. The collection was later nationalised and formed part of the Hermitage and several other museums of national importance. Yusupov Palace gained notoriety with its final princely inhabitant, Felix Yusupov. Rumoured to be as wealthy as the Russia Royal Family, the yellow palace was only one of four St. Petersburg stately homes owned by Felix Yusupov, alongside with many others in the 57 provinces of Russia. Today, visit Yusupov Palace for an unforgettable experience of Imperial Russia. Dazzling chandeliers cast a warm glow onto resplendent silk covered walls, and grand white staircases lead to myriad period chambers filled with priceless furniture and artefacts. A particular favourite and one of the most beautiful interiors in the palace is the secluded internal theatre! While tradition and innovation co-exist harmoniously within the period building, a certain rarefied atmosphere prevails. Yusupov Palace functions as both a museum chronicling the past, and as a glamorous venue for performance and spectacle, in the best aristocratic traditions. Credits: Images courtesy of Yusupov Palace
Russia AT HOME
Eugenie NI A RCHOS
Mari Vanna caters to the most traditional culinary desires
Eugenie Niarchos sees her designs for Venyx as a memento
of Russian expats and those curious to experience dishes found on
of voyages through different stylistic epochs, akin to time trav-
the pages of Anna Karenina. Branches of the successful concept,
els through past decades. Combining Art Deco influences with
including New York, London, Los Angeles and Moscow, all fea-
the free spirited mind of the 1960s, her jewellery is at once familiar
ture interiors designed by Yuna Megre. Antique furniture, period
and exotic. Prior to creating Venyx, Eugenie Niarchos studied at
lighting, plush velvet chairs and an array of vintage collectibles on
the Geological Institute of America and worked with the Fine Jewellery
display create the perfect setting for such classic dishes as Borscht,
Department at Christie’s New York. Our favourite item is the Niloti-
Olivier Salad and
cus Gold Ring, a powerful and exclusive statement ring reminiscent
. Mari Vanna’s patisserie is served
with a delightful and warming mug of Ceylon and Thyme tea.
of dangerous animals.
We heartily recommend booking a table at Mari Vanna, especially
Credits: Jimmy Crippen
for Afternoon Tea! Credits: Images courtesy of Mari Vanna
Reinvention OF A CL ASSIC The House of Caron launched its first extraordinary fragrance in 1905. Since then, the intricate creations by novice perfumer Ernest Daltoff have become both classics and examples in olfactory rule breaking. For the last two decades, Caron has been masterminded by the house’s own perfumer, Richard Fasse. Parfum Sacre combines two of Caron’s most legendary classics, Fête des Roses from 1949 and Poivre from 1950. This lavish concoction, combining the full bouquet of Cupid’s favourite blossom with strong pepper notes, is sure to turn heads!
Issue N3 | 7 1
AROUND THE WORLD / UAE
fa shion pol it ics HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE CONTEMPORARY
FASHION
INDUSTRY
IN
UNITED
AR AB EMIR ATES? The fashion industry in the UAE is definitely thriving at the moment! When I started my brand four years ago I was the first handbag maker from the UAE to officially launch my bags in a luxury department stores, such as Bloomingdales and Saks Fifth Avenue. Today, there are so many other brands. This year also marks the second Fashion Forward event, a trade and fashion exhibition for Middle Eastern designers in Dubai. It's been a huge success!
TELL US ABOUT YOUR WORK FOR THE UN! My work with the UN is very exciting and it has made 2013 very interesting! After reading Do Something that Matters by Blake Myciosky, I got very inspired and decided that's just what I needed to do! So the next day I contacted WFP and explained who I was and how I think I could help – which was to raise awareness to their various projects and help with fundraising. We are advocates of a profit gaining charity work, as this is the only way one can give systematically. From now on, we hope to influence a younger generation, who may be future movers and shakers! This year, I teamed up with four powerful women, Rosemin Manji, Louise Nichol, Diala Makki and Alanoud Badr. I designed the perfect bag for each of them, in a beautiful limited edition capsule collection. All bags are statement pieces, yet practical and adaptable to the modern business woman's needs. Each bag is numbered, and only four of each will be produced in limited colors. We hope to set an example for other people to come together for a good cause! It's such a clichÊ, but when you do humanitarian work you just really feel good! It helps others and it makes you feel part of something bigger, something global. I really urge everyone to try to support something that is close to their heart! Credits: Images courtesy of Amanda Navai
7 2 | Issue N3
N A T H A L I E Tr a d
BIL Arabi
Creations by Dubai based designer Natalie Trad transcend
By incorporating golden messages into her fine jewellery, Nadine
the status of mere accessory to lifelong keepsake and minia-
Kanso creatively extends jewellery’s connotations. While pre-
ture sculpture. Born in Beirut, Trad moved to Paris to study
cious pieces such as rings communicate traditional characteristics
at the prestigious ESMOD Fashion School. After a stint as
of the wearer, such as relationship statuses, her work sold for Bil
Stefano Pilati’s intern at Yves Saint Laurent, the young designer
Arabi celebrates the heritage of the Arabic language and culture. Bil
moved once again, this time to attend lectures at Parson’s
Arabi started in 2006 with a single ring and has now expanded to
in New York. While honing her skills at Proenza Schouler, Trad
a dazzling collection. Earrings, bracelets, pendant and cufflinks
discovered period depictions of shells and hidden sealife in Alber-
are conceived of precious raw materials such as white, yellow
tus Seba’s tome Cabinet of Natural Curiosities. The captivating
and rose gold. All pieces are crafted by hand to the highest qual-
Polygona minaudiere, fuses soft and hard materials.
ity standards without losing their very contemporary aesthetic.
Credits: Tejal Patni
Credits: Images courtesy of Bil Arabi
Noir EPICE Created by Michel Roudnitska, son of the perfumer responsible for Christian Dior’s seminal Eau Sauvage, Noir Epice re-imagines a classic Oriental fragrance. Vanilla, long a principal ingredient in fragrances capturing the magic of the East, is replaced by crisp oranges and geranium, alongside a plethora of spices such as nutmeg and cloves.
Issue N3 | 7 3
AROUND THE WORLD / USA
NEW YORK INTER IORS MILES R EDD New York based interior designer Miles Redd opened his own design firm in 1999 and has been responsible for Oscar de la Renta’s home offerings since 2013. The recently published Big Book of Chic documents the designer’s myriad points of references. Beautifully furnished rooms combine strong colours with intricate details. FAVOURITE PIECE OF FURNITURE IN YOUR HOME? A console from Christopher Hodsoll in the manner of William Kent. FAVOURITE HISTORIC INTERIOR? Really Sophie’s choice for me, but lets’ say Chatsworth. THE BEST PLACE TO SPEND DECEMBER? I like Jamaica. Credits: Paul Costello
Acme N YC
PER FECT Swing
Guests seated at the 25 tables of Acme’s NoHo located eatery
Elevating the design of sunglasses to an artisan’s craft, P. Oliver
are invited to marvel at Danish chef Mads Refslund creations,
Goldsmith pioneered the idea of sunglasses as accessories, add-
subverting New American classics with his own memories
ing chic to protection. The brand also created winter sunglasses,
of Danish dishes. Inspired by the culture of foraging, the res-
to be worn while skiing in St. Moritz. Goldsmith sunglasses
taurant proudly uses locally sourced raw ingredients. Inventive
can be traced throughout fashion and cultural history of the
dishes such as scallops served with green almonds and a black
last decades, from fashion magazines to the big screen. Certain
truffle mackerel tarte are best enjoyed with a glass of artisanal
iconic film moments owe much of their enduring charm to the
wine selected by Acme’s wine director. Opened in January 2012
company. A pair of black Manhattan spectacles accentuate Holly
by Jean-Marc Houmard, Huy Chie Le and Jon Neidich, the three
Golightly’s reflection in
owners decided to keep the former restaurant’s name, illustrating
design for Casper is named after Billy Casper, who missed the title
the city’s rich culinary history.
of the 1971 PGA Golf Championships by just two strokes to Jack
’s shop window. The sunglass
Nickaulsen. Casper comes in a wonderful selection of colours and materials, from deep black to an elegant light beige. Credits: Oliver Goldsmith
T HE DA NDY Slippers Expertly crafted by Spanish artisans, Penelope Chilver’s range of beautiful slippers have become an instant design classic. For the Winter Season, sumptuous, dark velvet is combined with a delicately embroidered palm tree. A wonderful turquoise grosgrain edging and soft calf leather lining add the finishing touches. Perfect for snowy weekends spent inside by an open fire, or enjoying cocktails on a Caribbean beach. To add a personal touch, Penelope Chilvers now offers a step by step personalisation service online. Choose between velvet or suede uppers, add embroidered motifs and monogramming.
Issue N3 | 7 5
AROUND THE WORLD / INDIA
HOUSE of WA R IS Punjab born, New York based designer Waris Ahluwalia creates high jewellery pieces for his label House of Waris. Inspired by the marvels and secrets of Ancient Kingdoms, his jewellery fuses fantasy with an appreciation of crafts. Travelling frequently to Rome and Rajasthan to work closely with original artisans, every piece by House of Waris is a potential future heirloom. The Pink Sapphire Plumage Necklace is set in precious 18K gold with fuchsia, blush and white sapphires, reminding of the dazzling palaces of past maharajas and exotic birds. FAVOURITE PL ACE FOR CHRISTMAS? Golden Eye in Jamaica. Kayaking, dancing to reggae under the starry skies, the insanely challenging bike ride up to Noel Coward’s estate. FAVOURITE PL ACE FOR E ARLY SPRING? The Highlands of Scotland for walks on the never-ending beaches and moss covered forests. Credits: Christopher Wray-McCann
Crushing BLOOM
TO INDIA with love
Tom Daxon’s beautifully crafted scents are a special discov-
Assouline’s colourful To India with Love has become one of the
ery amidst the ever growing niche perfume market. Motivated
most successful publications dedicated to the continent. Designed
by a childhood fascination for fragrance, he works closely
as a personal scrapbook, it collects travel memories by Nathalie
with Jacques and Carla Chabert, a father and daughter duo
Portman, Wes Anderson, Cynthia Rowley and many more. Pho-
who have catered to the biggest luxury good houses’ olfac-
tographs, drawings and letters visualise the contributor’s heart-
tory desires. The London based perfumer has shared the initial
felt appreciation of India’s unforgettable multi-sensory experi-
inspiration behind his latest scent, Crushing Bloom: a picture of
ences. Created to raise awareness and funds for the victims of the
his mother’s delightful rose garden! Favourite fragrance classic?
2008 Mumbai attack, To India with Love combines philanthropy
“Après l’Ondée by Guerlain. I love the idea of trying to capture
with extreme visual beauty.
a moment in time, it seems so much more exciting compared to all these new
Credits: Assouline
marketing led fragrances.” Credits: Tom Daxon
T E A Tr a v e l s Opened in 1854, Henri and Louis Marriage’s company reflected their ancestors’ successful import and trade of luxury teas and their epoch’s fascination for the then exotic and costly beverage. Today, Marriage Frères sells teas in delightful period inspired caddies, via several international outlets, and Paris is home to four resplendent tearooms. The highest quality teas are combined with the luxurious perfume of flower petals: Lily Muguet, a recent addition, combines the uplifting flavour of Lily of the Valley with either white, green or black tea. For a deliciously calming effect, try a cup of Earl Grey Provence, which combines the plant’s dried lilac flowers and bergamot in a distinctive taste bouquet evocative of the South of France.
Issue N3 | 7 7
AROUND THE WORLD / CHINA
sens at iona l food Born in France and trained in the nation’s Haute Cuisine, Paul Parait approaches ingredients and the spectacle of mealtimes in an innovative way. After 15 years of research and preparation, Ultraviolet, described by the creator as a project not merely restaurant, has surprised and delighted critics and guests alike. Inspired by his far reaching travels and the desire to re-discover taste in a non-prejudiced way, Paul Parait serves intricate twenty course set menus to a maximum of 10 guests. Highlighting food’s community building aspect, all guests are treated to the same courses, organised according to their size and nature of ingredients. Dishes include a delightful Sashimi Steak Frites and Steamed Lobster with Seawater Lime Fizz. Ultraviolet, based in Shanghai, serves dishes addressing all senses: technological innovations such as a HD wall and dried scent diff users changes themes with each round. Eating is thus turned into an exclusive, multisensory experience incorporating scent, imagery and sound with taste. Credits: Images courtesy of Scott Wright of Limelight Studios
Carnet MICHELLE ONG
ANCIENT Rituals
Michelle Ong has been creating the most dazzling pieces of high
Sulwhasoo enriches ingredients and ancient rituals of the East
jewellery for the last two decades. Establishing Carnet with
with scientific insights. Using herbal ingredients, such as white
former gem dealer Avi Nagar in 1987, and opening her atelier
lilies to refine skin texture and lotus to moisturise, the brand
in Hong Kong in 2003, Ong’s work displays an astute knowl-
has garnered a cult following internationally. Our favourite prod-
edge of the craft of jewellery design and boundless creativity.
uct is an option for the Seventh Step within the company’s reg-
Born in Hong Kong, raised in North America, her pieces reflect
ulated skincare regime, which includes the regular use of a First
a rich and diverse cultural background, which can be explored
Care Serum before toner. The Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream
in her standalone boutique opened in Hong Kong in 2007,
targets fine lines, dehydration and loss of elasticity with a por-
its interiors designed by Edward Tuttle. Ong desires her creations
tent cocktail of jojoba, mango seed and Korean herbs. The prin-
to be collectibles of the future, treasured in the present day.
cipal ingredient, ginseng, is present in the form of roots, berries and water. Sulwhasoo solely uses five-year-old Korean ginseng,
(Harry Fane, 020 7930 8606, www.carnetjewellery.com)
believing its ingredients to be at the height of their might.
IT It invites the reader to explore the private world of Alexa Chung. In her first foray into hardback published musings, Chung combines the glossy saddled horses of her native UK with vintage denim dungarees, luxurious quilted leather curtsy of Chanel and rain soaked festivals. Illustrating her musings with whimsical doodles and snapshots of a hectic cosmopolitan life, It is a very personal account by one of the most eagerly followed and copied celebrities of our day. The author discusses a range of quotidian issues, from fashion to heartbreak and Mick Jagger’s ever-lasting allure. Credits: Alexa Chung
Issue N3 | 7 9
AROUND THE WORLD / EUROPE
fu t ur e h eiR l oom
To celebrate 250 years’ worth of intricate clay creations, Italian luxury brand Bottega Veneta and Koenigliche Porzellanmanufaktur Berlin are re-visiting their collaboration, which first started five years ago. Alongside a selection of jewellery combining heavy gold and delicate biscuit porcelain, the iconic metal and woven leather Knot clutch is adorned with a specially crafted porcelain cameo, reminiscent of La Belle Époque. Inside, a discretely placed sterling silver plate bears the bags production number, highlighting both the collaboration’s limited production and artisanal character. Credits: Images courtesy of Bottega Veneta
P R I VAT E D i n i n g
R ICK Owens
The Wolseley, its early 1920s Florentine inspired exterior counted
Californian fashion designer Rick Owens has created a limited edi-
among the architectural landmarks of London, offers guests
tion of furniture for The Carpenters Workshop Gallery. His garments
the chance to experience its cuisine in the privacy of a hidden
and accessories have been on the most wanted list of many a fashion
room. Entering the private dining room on top of the public res-
enthusiast, and his highly limited foray into furniture design is set
taurant via a personal staircase, maximum of 14 guests can enjoy,
to open Rick Owen’s singular aesthetic to a new audience. Using
either breakfast, lunch or dinner. While its black and cream lac-
rare materials such as fifty-thousand-year-old fossilized wood and
quered walls echo The Wolseley’s overall aesthetic, its generous
alabaster, Owens applies his signature interplay between lightness
supply of windows allows the room to be filled with the lights
and darkness. Having first created the interiors of his bunker-style
of Piccadilly at night, reflecting in the dazzling glare of a crystal
loft in Los Angeles, this selection of public work places Rick Owens
glass filled with cooled Champagne.
among other fashion creative who have breached the gap between
Credits: Simon Bevan
cloth and solid materials. Paul Poiret, Lanvin and Rei Kawakubo have all successfully created living spaces in the past. Credits: Courtesy of Carpenters Workshop Gallery
Astier DE L A V IL AT TE Benoit Astier de Vilatte and Ivan Pericoli are known for their intricate work with traditional black clay. Manufacturing techniques render each piece unique, its slight surface imperfections a mark of artisanship. Situated in the former building of Napoleon’s official silversmith, Astier de Vilatte combines heritage with exuberant fantasy. Their candles capture distant places via their olfactory souvenirs. From the current 33 scents, our selection invites on a trip from U.S.A. to Switzerland, via the colourful vista of India. Broadway reminds of fizzy soft drinks enjoyed on a neon lit street, Delhi’s heady scent combines wood with vanilla, and Zermatt evokes memories of Gluehwein, open fires and snow.
Issue N3 | 8 1
Le Tr ain Bleu CONNECTING CIRCLES
Le Train Bleu is a favourite classic with Parisians and visitors to the city for both its exceptional food and unique atmosphere. Located in the ‘Gare de Lyon’, journeys on steam trains.
The Gare de Lyon dates back to the Paris Grand Exhibition in 1900, created alongside other period architectural gems such as the Grand Palais, Petit Palais and Pont Alexander III. The
opened in 1901
in a celebration hosted by French President Emile Loubet. Le Train Bleu’s cavernous interior combines ornate golden frescos, sculptures and gilt with an abundant selection of period paintings. Counting 41 pieces, paintings capture scenes of travel and the railroads. The restaurant’s location in a train station is further emphasised with ornate clocks. Aside from framed artworks, Le Train Bleu has some of the most beautiful painted ceilings in Paris. The painting framing the Gold Room is the creation of Henri Gervex (1852 – 1929), notable for both his romantic tableaux and close friendship to Renoir. Le Train Blue has been witness to many a famous visitor, from Coco Chanel, Jean Cocteau and Brigitte Bradot to Salvador Dalì. In 1987, Keith Haring celebrated his birthday at the restaurant, with the modern art world dancing underneath period works. The restaurant has lost none of its allure since then. Dishes are elegant takes on French Classics, with the chefs using seasonal produce. Highlights include home-smoked salmon and foie gras. One of classic dishes is the Roast Rib of Veal Foyot, served with a selection of wild mushrooms.
8 2 | Issue N3
Image proper t y of Le Train Bleu
m ac au CITY LIFESTYLE
Image cour tesy of Galax y Macau™
Located on the west side of the Pearl River Delta, east from Hong Kong, the former colony of Portugal has turned into one of the most exciting destinations in the world.
Issue N3 | 8 5
CIT Y LIFEST YLE / M ACAU
With a history that can be traced back to the Qin Dynasty and a Portuguese patina, Macau is a rather extraordinary Asian destination. Found on the Western side of the Pearl River Delta, this former Portuguese colony is a city of contradictions and allure. Filled with Mediterranean-style cafés, palm readers, caged birds, pipe-smokers, cobbled alleys, Baroque churches and colonial mansions, Macau is more than a little beguiling.
CITY OF CONTRADICTIONS Administered by Portugal from the mid 16th century until late 1999, when it was the last remaining European colony in Asia, Macau is now one of the world’s biggest gambling destinations. So un-surprisingly, it entices visitors with a penchant for luxury, history and the unexpected. Daring bungee jumpers can dive from 61-story towers as dancing dragons materialize on the streets below; surfers can brave rooftop wave pools while art lovers get lost in semi-hidden galleries. Macau is a sensory overload yet can be perfectly serene, full of secret corners, opulence and the avant-garde. The Historic Centre of Macau was officially listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005 and is home to some 25 historic buildings. The hypnotic black and white stone paving of Senado Square is a must for budding holiday photographers. This pedestrian haven is the peninsula’s symbolic heart and is overlooked by the neo-classical Leal Senado, once the site of Macau’s government. This building has a Portuguese-inspired granite staircase that leads to a time-forgotten, greenery-filled courtyard. Macau is a haven for international designers (many have set up stores within the city’s casinos) yet offers the chance to peruse and purchase more traditional wares. Once a home for unmarried women, the Albergue SCM (8, Calçada da Igreja de São Lázaro) is a collection of villas overlooking a shady courtyard that hosts fashion, art and architecture shows, workshops and exhibitions. Art-lovers will also enjoy the Tap Seac Gallery (95, Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida), which blends contemporary art with neo-Classical architecture. Complete with arched doorways and wooden shutters, this building evokes a type of romance synonymous with Old-World Macau. With a combination of thought-provoking sculptures and abstract paintings, the gallery’s sun-washed interior is equally enthralling.
8 6 | Issue N3
FESTIVE LIVING A mixing of Chinese and Portuguese cultures for more than four centuries has left Macau with an inimitable collection of holidays, festivals and events. There is the Macau Grand Prix in November, Macau Arts Festival in March and Chinese New Year – the most important traditional festival. The two-week long Macau Music Festival, which takes place in October, is a cacophony of exceptional opera, musicals and concerts from visiting orchestras. The A-Ma Temple, found along the Praia Grande and built in honour of the goddess Matsu, comes to life in April when worshippers celebrate the A-Ma Festival. In May many streets fill with dancing dragons (that emerge from surreal fog and are accompanied by dazzling multimedia displays) as part of the Feast of the Drunken Dragon. The Dragon Boat Festival also springs into life on Nam Van Lake in June before the year ends with December’s Winter Solstice.
CULINARY ADVENTURE Macau is a city of fusion cooking with flavours borrowed from South America, China and Africa with turmeric, coconut milk, cinnamon and bacalhau remaining the ingredients of choice. A mixture of Cantonese and Portuguese fare, many dishes were born out of the spice blends created by the wives of Portuguese sailors who were attempting to recreate European dishes. Romantics should make for the Terrace (Avenida da Republica, Fortaleza de São Tiago da Barra), which is found within a 17th-century converted fort. You enter through a brick and stone tunnel, accompanied by the sound of trickling water, before being greeted by calming interiors and some rather creative red wine sangria (that comes with a hint of gin and apples). Restaurante Espaço Lisboa (8, Rua das Gaivotas) is a true Portuguese gastronomic discovery. Like many Macau treasures this restaurant is located within a century old house with tables dotted around its second floor veranda. Famed for its seafood, booking ahead is essential. Admirers of all things historic will delight in the Macallan Whisky Bar (Galaxy Macau), which could easily be confused for a gentleman’s club in the Scottish highlands. With a romantic interior, made up of leather sofas, a roaring fireplace, Jacobean rugs, rich oak wood panels and animal furs, this venue is rather atmospheric. The bar has over 400 whisky labels, including a range selected from the Macallan distillery in Aberdeen. Whisky representatives from Ireland, Sweden, France and India also make an appearance. The three-Michelin-starred Robuchon au Dôme (43/F, Avenida de Lisboa), aptly found at the dome of Grand Lisboa Hotel, has a delectable French menu and view designed to delight. Here culinary artistry blends with fine wines and a truly decadent décor (which stars a cascading crystal chandelier), making for an exquisite fine dining experience.
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CIT Y LIFEST YLE / M ACAU HIGH ROLLER With 24-hour gambling in the city’s casinos, Macau attracts more than five times the gambling revue of Las Vegas. For a boutique experience make for Wynn Macau (Rua Cidade de Sintra), a luxury-integrated resort modeled after Steve Wynn’s curved tower in Las-Vegas. The casino floor itself is both intimate and atmospheric, with low ceilings and dimmed lighting. Its poker room is particularly popular. Likewise, the Venetian Macao Resort (Estrada Da Baia De N.), currently boasting the biggest casino in Macau, has plenty of Vegas glamour. The Las Vegas Sands Group spent $2.4 billion to build this replica of the American original. In keeping with it the opulent aesthetic, the hotel has a Grand Canal complete with serenading gondoliers. Louis XIII, a boutique casino and hotel on the Cotai-Coloane border, which promises guests an unprecedented, über-luxury experience, will join these resorts in 2016.
NATUR AL WORLD Macau is a city of green corners and panoramas. Named for the renowned Portuguese national poet, Camões Garden (Praça Luís de Camões) is one of Macau’s oldest parks. Filled with ancient trees and boulders, this park attracts Tai Chi practitioners, songbird walking locals and clued-up visitors. The pebble filled reflexology path is particularly agreeable. A cable car can also take you to the top of Guia Hill, where you’ll encounter a 17th-century fort and a wonderful path to jog along (an activity locals tend to do without shoes). From here you can visit a small chapel with faded frescoes and spy a lighthouse that local legend says is the oldest on the Chinese coast. Those with a fondness for hiking should attempt the five-mile long, leaf-covered Colôane Trail. This is Macau’s longest path and offers up a view of Mainland China and Colôane Island’s enticing collection of sandy beaches. A beach of particular note is the ‘black sanded’ Hac Sa Beach. Post bathing you can recline with a copy of Austin Coates’ City of Broken Promises, a fictionalized account of the life of 18th-century Macanese trader Martha Merop. It’s a rather relaxing way to discover just how magical Macau can be.
8 8 | Issue N3
Deborah HU NG
Stephen HUNG
As the Chairwoman of the Hong Kong-based Dreamodels, one of
Stephen Hung is the Joint Chairman of Louis XIII Holdings
Asia’s leading modeling agencies, South American born Deborah
Limited, the company behind the luxury casino-hotel of the
Valdez Hung is a force of luxury nature. She has always had a passion
same name, set to open on Macau’s Cotai Strip. A graduate of
for business, law and fashion and is known to embody (and
Columbia University, and an admirer of bespoke Versace, Hung
embrace) the elegance, verve and creativity that make the Asian
has over 30 years of experience in the finance and investment
luxuryindustry so unique. Deborah is the wife of Stephen
industries. He was the co-head of investment banking for
Hung and frequently graces the pages of the world’s leading
Asia at Merrill Lynch before establishing his own investment
fashion, style and business publications.
banking firm. He is also the Chairman of Falloncroft and Vice Chairman of Rio Entertainment Group.
HOTELS
&
BOUTIQUES
SPAS &
City
of
Dreams,
Wynn
S H O P S Selective stores in One
HOTELS
&
SPAS
of
Dreams,
Wynn
Central such as LV and Dolce Gabbana also very interesting
BOUTIQUES
RESTAUR ANTS
Don Alfonso, Litoral, and many
Wynn and Four Seasons are world class . R E S T A U R A N T S
local Chinese restaurants! . N I G H T S P O T S Club Cubic
Robuchon au Dôme . N I G H T S P O T S Club Cubic . W H Y
WHY
M A C A U ? Interesting contrast and co-existence of old world
M A C A U ? Modern integrated resorts, must take
time to visit both. Luxury capital of China
&
City
S H O P S The shopping arcades at
Portughese colony charm. Undisputed gaming capital of the world
addresses City of Dreams & Club Cubic, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau Don Alfonso (3rd Floor) & Robuchon au Dôme (43rd Floor) at Grand Lisboa Hotel, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau Four Seasons, The Cotai Strip, Cotai, Macau . Litoral, Rua do Almirante Sérgio, 261-A, r/c, Macau One Central, Avenida de Sagres, Cathedral Parish, Macau . Wynn, Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau
Issue N3 | 8 9
CA ROLINE SA R KOZY INTERIORS
Caroline Sarkozy founded her interior design company, ‘CS decoration’, in 1998. Since then, her idiosyncratic style has turned a multitude of spaces into statement interiors. On the following pages, Caroline Sarkozy allows a private insight into her aesthetic convictions and stimuli.
9 0 | Issue N3
Issue N3 | 9 1
Image by Reto Guntli / Zapaimage
INTERIORS WHERE WERE YOU BORN? I was born in Paris. At the age of nine I moved to the United States with my mother and her husband, an American diplomat. Early on, our new life took us to exotic destinations which shaped my vision and curiosity, and without a doubt nurtured a sensibility to all forms of aestheticism. As a young girl, I was already particularly sensitive to jewels, fashion, elegance, style and décor. I was very determined in my convictions for all that referred to ‘good’ taste. My French and American grandmothers – two formidable, sophisticated and refined women – had a strong role in my upbringing and a strong influence on me. They lived in marvellous houses and were very attentive to the notion of comfort and receiving – no details escaped their attention. They were delighted to finally have a grandchild who preferred to set a beautiful table with them, rather than play with her Barbie’s. Finally my Hungarian father (an avid art collector) occupied his free time with the conception of homes without the unwelcomed advice of a succession of wives or decorators. This rich and varied cultural heritage, similar to the pieces of a puzzle, surely anchored me in the field that I practice today.
WHERE
DOES
YOUR
PASSION
FOR
ANCIENT
AND
ETHNIC
TEXTILE STEM FROM? My mother and stepfather were posted to Zambia, Egypt, the Philippines and finally India. This nomad life was enriched by other non-professional travels, motivated by my parent’s curiosity and the pleasure my stepfather took in sharing his passion for world cultures with his children. The exposure to different parts of the world was constant and intense. My childhood was a series of discoveries, cultural and visual shocks, as well as emotions. Craftsmanship quickly became a focal point for me, and more precisely the art of weaving. Fabrics are the mirror and memory of civilization, a ‘know how’ often passed through generations by women. They capture the essence and identity of a civilization and remain timelessly seductive through the strength of natural colours, motifs, and the quality of hand weaving. My first savings quickly melted as I began buying fabrics, and started a collection. I recently used a Turkish Ottoman fabric for sofa cushions I had bought on a trip to Istanbul, 25 years ago. Integrating unique pieces into urban, modern homes and playing with the contrasts of origins by mixing period artefacts and sophisticated contemporary materials is an exercise that I love, and is always successful.
D O Y O U BE L IE V E IN MI X IN G DIF F E R E N T C ULT UR E S IN Y O UR W O R K? Family history and a nomadic childhood have formed my identity. I believe that this heritage has enhanced and enriched my creative and intellectual capacity to orchestrate interiors; an open vision where different sources of inspiration meet and confront each other to create emotions and sensations seems essential to me. I am incapable of creating a monolithic, monochromic, soundless space. A decor gains in depth and strength as bridges are built, uniting diverse influences and genres. My clients have their own history and heritage, which becomes the heart of each project through careful interlacing and subtle combinations. My client's heritage is the clue to each interior I create for them, it is their heritage that is reflected – that is absolutely essential. This is perhaps the reason I have clients from very different cultural backgrounds.
Images by Mathieu Garçon Projects in collaboration with the architect Laurent Bourgois Orange and black seat designed by CS Decoration
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INTERIORS HOW WOULD YOU DE SCRIBE TODAY ’S PERCEP TION OF ONE'S HOME? The first decade of the 21st century has been synonymous with contemporary design; a race towards systematic and radical modernism. The minimalist approach has created interiors to look at and to photograph, but not to live in. The traditional notion of comfort and hospitality was readily brushed aside to give way to a frozen aesthetic. In this ‘global age’ – where intimacy is harder and harder to preserve – there is a trend towards the ‘invested’ personalized home; homes that reflect the identity and personality of their owners and mark their difference.
WHICH
PAINTING
OR
PIECE
OF
ART
ILLUSTR ATES
YOUR
A E STHE TIC IDE A L? The German Pavilion built by Mies Van der Rohe for the 1929 Universal Exposition is an amazing example. It was dismantled at the end of the exhibit and reconstructed on the same sight in 1983. It is one of the most emblematic monuments of the history of Modern Architecture. A glass frame, framed lines and simple forms created with the most noble of materials: marbles, red onyx, travertine; a forceful symbol of elegance, timelessness.
WHAT
IS
YOUR
FORECAST
FOR
INTERIOR
DESIGN
TRENDS
TWENTY YEARS FROM NOW? I believe that interior design is more of a global subject than it has ever been, as a result the eye is better trained, better educated and can therefore take more liberties and distance. Easier access to new materials and technologies will enrich all possibilities, creating a larger, more open and dense creative spectrum. The notion of ‘good and bad taste’ will take on new proprieties, which is already happening. Internet erases frontiers and limits, no matter your origin and place of residence. More and more people have access to Architecture, Design and Decoration and develop an active interest in these subjects. The notion of cross cultures is more and more present in the decorative arts and can be a strong vector for a positive message. Our way of living will have to evolve in view of a changing world-ecology, and will demand new solutions from architects and designers. Globalization has also given a more pronounced need for the ‘home’. The home remains the place where one can cultivate and impose one's identity and personality, find intimacy and protection; a cocoon removed from the tremors of the world.
WHAT ARE THE THREE KE Y CHAR ACTER TR AITS YOU BELIE VE A WOMAN MUST HAVE TO RUN A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS? Being able to unite freedom, openness and enthusiasm in one’s work gives tremendous energy. This is the secret to living your professional life as an extraordinary adventure. It enables you to give your best.
WHAT IS YOUR MOST TRE A SURED POSSESSION? My children are dearer to me than everything. They oblige me to open my eyes and raise my spirits, rethink my fundamental beliefs. They give me enthusiasm and make me want to put on those Sevenleague boots every morning!
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TRENDSPOTTERS
janaina tschÄpe Born in southern Germany, raised in São Paulo, Janaina Tschäpe’s work explores the relationship between the natural body and its surroundings, and the processes of life including death and transformation. Truly multidisciplinary,Janaina Tschäpe ’s drawings, photographs and large-scale video installations have been presented internationally, from the Winnipeg Art Gallery to the Tokyo Wonder Site. Her work is, amongst others, kept permanently in the collections of the Guggenheim New York, the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris and the Museu de Arte Moderna do Rio de Janeiro. BEST PL ACE TO CELEBR ATE NE W YE AR’S? Rio de Janeiro. FAVOURITE MUSEUM? Louisiana Museum of Modern Art in Humlebæk, Denmark. FAVOURITE HOTEL? &Beyond Mnemba Island Lodge. The island is off the coast of Zanzibar and is very remote and secluded. It is the only thing on the island, you are always alone and could be barefoot all day long. Find more information on: www.janainatschape.net
TRYING FOR INFINITY III 2013, Acr ylic on watercolor paper 60 x 80 x 16.5" Image cour tesy of Carlier Gebauer Photograph by Teresa LoJacono
MODER N FOLK AR T Foshan based artist Chen Yingjie, working under the nom de plume Hua Tunan, combines the heritage rich use of ink found in Chinese drawings, with contemporary street art practices to startling effect. His work re-visits ancient motifs and myths, exploring their stance in our time. His way of working regularly transcends the boundaries of drawing to include performance art: car manufacturer Volvo invited the Chinese artist for its Art Sessions, and in 2013 Louis Vuitton invited him to add his touch to the brand's Shanghai Lippo Plaza flagship store.
FAVOURITE PL ACE TO SPEND WINTER IN CHINA? My hometown Foshan‌ because I was born in this city. For me, it emanates the warm feelings of a home-
Hua Tunan, Ink Rabbit, Cour tsy of the ar tist
town. It also gives me a lot of creative inspiration. BEST MUSEUM IN CHINA? For me, The Palace Museum, Beijing. FAVOURITE ART WORK? My favourite works are paintings by Wu Guanzhong, which can inspire me a lot: his paintings, his lines and his creative spirit have been a great encouragement to me. Find more information on: www.huatunan.com
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ART
EVENTS THIS PAGE Zeng Fanzhi, Untitled, 2012 Collection privée, © Zeng Fanzhi studio OPPOSITE PAGE Pablo Picasso, Nu debout et flûtiste, 1967 Cour tesy of the ar tist and Galeria Leandro Navarro Jon Rafman, RV890, Nor way, 2011, Digital C-Print, Future Galler y Tracey Emin, Trust Yourself, 2012, Neon, 29 x 116.5 cm, Cour tesy of Lehmann Maupin Galler y Yaşam Șaşmazer, “Taming the Darkness”, 2013 Mixed media on wall, wooden sculpture Berlin Ar t Projects, Berlin / Istanbul / London
A RT E X PO N YC
P i e r 94 , N e w Yo r k C i t y
4th APR 2014 - 6th APR 2014 · For 2014, Art Expo New York is moving back to its former destination. Pier 94 allows for an even larger exhibition, displaying fine art from US based and international dealers. Art Expo New York is known as the “largest show devoted to Fine Art in the world”. The juried Gallery Pavilion hosts an exclusive selection of leading publishers, dealers and already established independent artists.
CARTIER
T h e st yl e of hi stor y exhibit ion G ra n d P a l a i s , P a r i s 4th DEC 2013 - 16th FEB 2014 · Since its founding in 1847, Cartier has catered to the refined tastes of many a jewellery aficionado. From December 2013, the Grand Palais in Paris invites visitors to marvel at a century old craft, exploring the heritage of a luxury company. 500 pieces of rare gems, clocks and accessories will be exhibited alongside evocative painting and pieces of furniture.
ZENG FA NZHI EXHIBITION
M u s é e d'A r t M o d e r n e , P a r i s
18th OCT 2013 - 16th FEB 2014 · Combining a kinship with Eastern art and a thoroughly western outlook, Zeng Fanhi has enjoyed attention from private collectors since the 1990s. This marks the first retrospective of his works in France. Be reminded of traditional Chinese paintings, and compare to works by the likes of Warhol, Balthus and Bacon.
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MIAMI ART BASEL
Miami Beach Convention Center
5th DEC 2013 – 8th DEC 2013 · For three days at the beginning of December, catch the latest contemporary works at Art Basel Miami. Amidst a glamorous backdrop of pastel art deco furniture, the art world flocks to this annual event to add to important collections and discover new and upcoming artists, alongside masters of modern art. Paintings, photography, sculptures and films are exhibited in the main exhibition hall, and a selection of large-scale artworks and performance art is taking over the nearby beaches.
ART GENÈVE
3rd In st alme nt of S w i ss Ar t Fair 1st JAN 2014 - 2nd FEB 2014 · Now in its third year, artgeneve caters to art collectors and admirers from the Swiss Romande and beyond. Emphasising the discourse between institutions and dealers, the fair invites internationally renowned galleries, alongside a space dedicated to private and public collections, curators and independently functioning spaces.
A RT TA IPEI
T he longest standing Art Fair in Asia 8th NOV 2013 - 11th NOV 2013 · Established twenty years ago, Art Taipai is the longest running art fair in the Asia-Pacific region. This year’s fair is centred on the perspective of Art Economy, including Urban Art Economy and The Value of Arts for Business. The theme of the year is Asian Value. Expect expert lectures, vivid discussion and a superb selection of visual art.
CONTEMPOR ARY ISTA NBU L
B i g g e s t A r t F a i r i n Tu r k e y
7th NOV 2013 - 10 th NOV 2013 · The eighth edition of Contemporary Istanbul is scheduled to take place in The Istanbul Convention and Exhibition Centre (ICEC) and Istanbul Congress Centre (ICC). Inviting over ninety galleries from twenty-one countries, the fair will be exhibiting over 650 international and Turkish artists and is the largest of its kind to this date. Half of the artists chosen to display are from the Balkans, North Africa and East Mediterranean.
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Image cour tesy of Louvre Abu Dhabi
LouVre Abu DhaBi ART EVENTS
Conceived via an agreement between the government of both the United Arab Emirates and France the international art circuit. by Felix Bischof
THE DIALOGUE Opening in 2015, the museum has already organised several exhibitions, publicly documenting the evolution of its permanent collection and establishing a dialogue between the public and curators in the form of talks and static displays in partner venues. The Talking Art series invited curators, historians and experts to introduce the museum’s accumulated works, placing recent acquisitions within an art historical frame. Commenting on the talks, which were grouped chronologically, reflecting key moments pertinent to different world cultures, H.E. Sheikh Sultan Bin Tahnoon Al Nahyan, Chairman of Abu Dhabi’s Tourism Development & Investment Company, commented that, “Louvre Abu Dhabi will be a world museum, whose purpose and scope are universal”.
THE COLLECTION The culturally inclusive character of Louvre Abu Dhabi, billed as the first universal museum in the Arab world, is carried forward by its only recently established collection, comprising an impressive array of artists, cultural backgrounds and dates. Art works collected are part of the four principal periods addressed in the museum: Archaeolog y and the Birth of Civilisation, Medieval Days and the Birth of Islam, The Classical Period from Humanism to the Enlightenment & Modern and Contemporary works from the end of the 18th century until the present day. Highlights include works by Gauguin and Picasso, alongside an extremely rare example of a standing Bactrian Princess from the end of the 3rd millennium BCE and an intricate pavement and fountain ensemble preserved from the early Ottoman period. Creating a dialogue between East and West, the collections includes
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ART EVENTS the work Ayoucha by Joseph Girault de Prangey, the earliest known photographic depiction of a veiled woman, and Jacob Jordan’s 17th century Flemish masterpiece The Good Samaritan. For future exhibitions, the museum’s own collections will be on display alongside illustrious loans by the Louvre Paris and a host of French cultural institutions, including Centre Pompidou, Musée D’Orsay and the Bibliothèque National de France. However, Louvre Abu Dhabi is to be established as an artistically independent museum, transmitting the values of the original Louvre without replicating the French museum. As Henri Loyrette, former President of the Louvre, states, “The Louvre Abu Dhabi will not be the Louvre in Abu Dhabi: it will be a new museum, carrying a double culture, and a double tradition. It will combine the French museum requirements with the tradition of openness of the UAE, ”
THE BUILDING Louvre Abu Dhabi’s architect, Jean Nouvel adds that he desired the building to “mirror a protected territory that belongs to the Arab world and this geography”. Covering a built up area of approximately 64,000 square metres, comprising 9,200 square metres of art galleries, 6,000 square metres for the Permanent Gallery and 2,000 square metres for temporary displays. Created as a museum city, the building designed by the French, award winning architects mirrors its surroundings while being aware of the most recent developments. This results in an interesting interplay between tradition and innovation. A water feature running through the galleries is inspired by the Ancient Falaj, while a directional geometric lace dome is conceived via a recurring geometric design repeatedly employed in ten layers, five outside and five inside. While this might look rather futuristic, it is also reminiscent of the traditional roofs in the Emirates, made of interlaced palm leaves. The roof ’s design, capturing both light and shade, alongside the internal water system highlights two principal contentions of the Emirates – light and liquids. Louvre Abu Dhabi’s architecture further considers contemporary environmental concerns. The dome roof will act as a shading canopy for the outside plaza and building, resulting in lower energy consumption, light collared and effective materials, which reflect heat rather than absorb and store it.
THE LOCATION Louvre Abu Dhabi will be located within the Saadiyat Cultural District, conceived as the world’s largest single concentration of premier cultural institutions. The museum will in future be joined by the Zaid National Museum and the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi. The natural island of Saadiyat is located a mere five minutes from Abu Dhabi and the newly planned district is to host international heavyweights of both culture and academia. Confirmed establishments include an outpost of New York University, combining an acclaimed educational program with the benefits of a quickly evolving market which offers plenty of exciting opportunities. Alongside art museums and a university, there will also be a Maritime Museum and a Performing Arts Centre.
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OPPOSITE PAGE Bactrian ‘Princess’ Central A sia Late third millenium BCE–early second millenium BCE Chlorite for the body and headdress, calcite for the face H. 25.3cm L AD.2011.024 © Louvre Abu Dhabi / Thierr y Ollivier Jean Nouvel Architect of Louvre Abu Dhabi Jacob Jordaens (Ant werp, 1593–1678) ‘The Good Samaritan’ Ant werp, Belgium, c. 1616 Oil on canvas H. 185.5cm; W. 173cm L AD.2012.009 © Louvre Abu Dhabi / Agence photo F THIS PAGE CY Twombly (Lexington, Virginia 1928– Rome, 2011) ‘Untitled I–IX’ Italy 2008 Acr ylic on canvas Panel H. 274cm; W. 146cm L AD.2012.115 © Louvre Abu Dhabi / Agence photo F © C y Twombly Foundation
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LONDON
to
MUMBA I
AUCTIONS
M U M B A I Tr e a s u r e s
17 th DEC 2013 - 19 th DEC 2013
After its successful first sale in Shanghai, making Christie’s the first cosmopolitan auction house to operate autonomously in mainland China, the company is approaching the Indian market in December 2013. Located in Mumbai, the event is to affirm Christie’s influential position within the continent’s market, having operated a specialist office for the last two decades. The sale, which specialises in India’s vast amount of home-grown creative, further echoes James Christie’s legendary pioneering spirit, having offered “four fine India pictures painted on glass” in his inaugural auction in 1766. Throughout more recent cultural history, the auction house has supported the Indian Art fair in New Delhi and worked alongside the British Council on the touring exhibition Homelands, introducing Indian contemporary art to an audience from diverse cultural backgrounds. Christie’s will further introduce India’s visual treasures, via specialist curated travels. An Art Journey through India includes contemporary art in New Dehli, palaces in Jaipur and forts in Rajasthan.
K ATE Collection In late September, Christie’s London dedicated a sale to model Kate Moss, and the creation of a modern icon. 59 lots, formerly in the possession of German collector and art expert Gert Elfering sold for a total of over £1.5m. Neither the collector nor the model attended the auction, however the sales room was witness to frantic scenes, as bidders and fans of Kate Moss gathered to witness this unique event. Lots were sold to an international clientele, with bidders from Russia and China, amongst other international markets, placed bids remotely. From the 59 lots, 48 were sold. The auction also established record results for the sale of contemporary photography. World records for the artist at auction were set for Chris Levine, Craig McDean and Mario Sorrenti. Pieces sold at the auction celebrated Kate Moss as a modern day muse to photographers and artists. The wide range of pictures, spanning the model’s career in fashion, illustrated both photographer’s and subjects development, from early Grunge days to contemporary glamour. Highlights included editorial works by the likes of Tim Walker, Inez and Vindooh and Mario Testino.
THIS PAGE Tyeb Mehta Christie’s Mumbai ‘South A sian Ar t’ Sale Image cour tesy of Christie’s OPPOSITE PAGE Title: Body Armour Concept and photography: Allen Jones Copyright: Allen Jones
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L AWRIE SH ABIBI ART FOCUS
Established in 2011, Lawrie Shabibi gallery exhibits a prime selection of both emerging and established artists within an impressive warehouse space measuring three thousand square feet in Dubai’s Al Quoz district. Gallery director Asmaa Al-Shabibi extends the awareness of UAE contemporary art further via international art fairs, most recently the ‘Istanbul Biennale’.
For 2014, highlights for art collectors at Lawrie Shabibi gallery include the solo exhibitions of Nabil Nahas and Asad Fauwell. Drawing inspiration from the struggle of Algerian female freedom fighters, Claremont graduate Fauwell creates intricate collages. Nahas, who in 2010 was the subject of a large scale retrospective in Beirut, uses an innovative combination of materials such as rock volcanic pumice.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE CURRENT MIDDLE EASTERN ART MARKET? I can really only speak about the market in the UAE and more specifically Dubai. The art market in Dubai saw tremendous growth over the last seven years but I would say now that it has reached a plateau. This is especially true of Iranian art where the hype and speculation has thankfully died down. There are now a large number of art galleries in relation to the number of art collectors in the city and so there is a lot more competition than there was a few years ago. In terms of taste in the past most collectors were interested only in works of artists from their own countries but this has now changed. I think 2014 is the year when many of us will have to push the boundaries and take more risks so as to avoid the market becoming stale.
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Nabil Nahas 24 Carats, 2013 Acr ylic on Canvas, Š Lawrie Shabibi Galler y
ART FOCUS TELL US ABOUT THE TWO UPCOMING EXHIBITIONS? Our next exhibition is a solo exhibition by Nabil Nahas in November. Nahas established himself in New York (before the current heightened interest in contemporary art of the Middle East) as a master of colour, texture and atmosphere. Although thoroughly schooled in Western abstract painting, Nahas takes his inspiration from a diverse range of influences, most significantly nature, and occasionally Islamic art, in particular its abstract geometric and chromatic qualities. Of his many series, those for which he is best known are his thickly encrusted starfish and fractal paintings, built up by layer upon layer of acrylic paint mixed with pumice and finished in vivid colours. In his solo exhibition (his second at our gallery) Nahas will present new works from his fractal series. Nahas's solo will be followed by a solo by Asad Faulwell. Faulwell, in contrast, is one of our youngest and artists and is based in LA, Faulwell works with intricately woven collages to celebrate the largely unsung female freedom fighters who struggled to end French occupation in Algeria between 1954 - 1962. Faulwell features repeated motifs of the women who fought alongside the men to save their country. The repetition of the images and the quasi-religious imagery he employs give these works the air of a devotional shrine. Although still young Asad Faulwell is one of our most sought after artists and his work has already featured in many private and public collections including The Oppenheimer Collection at The Nerman Museum of Contemporary Art in Kansas City, The Rubell Collection in Miami and The Franks-Suss Collection in London.
WHY
DO
YOU
THINK
IS
THERE
SUCH
A
STRONG
INTEREST IN ARTISTS FROM THE MIDDLE EAST AT THE MOMENT? The international presence of Middle Eastern art has grown exponentially over the last eight years or so. Many museums and prestigious institutions are including Middle Eastern artists as part of their collections and programming and there is definitely a lot of interest in what is happening in the Middle East from curators, writers and collectors. Most people are fascinated by the region, because of the complexities of the politics and social issues confronting the region, but would also add that the Middle East has a lot of excellent artists that are fresh and different; and I believe that this is what people are looking for.
A sad Faulwell ‘Les Femmes d'Alger 31’ 60 inch x 4 8 inch 2013 A smaa & William Nabil Nahas Detail © Lawrie Shabibi Galler y
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Is a be l l e
Ch a pu is IN THE MOOD FOR
French photographer. Isabelle Chapuis is gaining a quick following, with her imagery chosen exhibited internationally, from Paris to Hong Kong.
O P P O S I T E P A G E ‘ Mini-Miss’, Isabelle Chapuis | T H I S P A G E ‘ La Miao’, Isabelle Chapuis
RUSSI A / AROUND THE WORLD
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AROUND THE WORLD / RUSSI A
O P P O S I T E P A G E ‘ La Vespucci’, Isabelle Chapuis | T H I S P A G E ‘ La Sikh’, Isabelle Chapuis | All images cour tesy of Isabelle Chapuis
RUSSI A / AROUND THE WORLD
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L’Ormarins wines WINE
New developments at the home of Anthonij Rupert Wyne, one of South Africa’s renowned wine producers, have invigorated this destination for wine lovers near Franschhoek, regarded as one of South Africa’s leading wine destinations. The owner of world renowned L’Ormarins and Anthonij Rupert labels, Anthonij Rupert Wyne is also the brainchild behind South Africa’s Old Vines Initiative, conceptualised to preserve wine industry heritage.
The acquisition in February 2011 of land adjoining L’Ormarins heralded a new phase in the long history of Anthonij Rupert Wyne. Following the addition of 452ha of land, including 72ha of vineyards, cellars, a manor house and other facilities, a luxurious, multi-level tasting room, antipasto bar and gourmet emporium to showcase Anthonij Rupert Wyne’s Terra del Capo range was completed at the end of last year. On its heels, the new Anthonij Rupert Tasting Room opened its doors, welcoming visitors to one of the Drakenstein Valley’s most splendorous wine farms. “The public has had very limited access to the farms up to now. The work done since the incorporation of the neighbouring property and ensuing developments, have made facilities truly ready for display”, says Anthonij Rupert Wyne MD Gary Baumgarten. There are five ranges in the Anthonij Rupert Wyne portfolio, of which Anthonij Rupert is the flagship. L’Ormarins is the home of its MCC wine; Terra del Capo houses its Italian varietals; Protea, designed for earlier enjoyment; and, Cape of Good Hope, an exciting range made from some of the oldest South African vines. Cape of Good Hope comprises terroir-specific wines created in recognition of South Africa’s 350-year-old vinous heritage. Their first vintage was launched in 2011, the result of the Old Vines Initiative. This initiative was launched seven years ago by Johann Rupert, who took on the wine mantle of the Rupert family following the untimely death of his brother and renowned winemaker Anthonij, in 2001.
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The Old Vines Initiative is regarded as a valuable contribution to the protection of South African heritage and mirrors the Rupert family’s contributions in the preservation in other fields such as iconic art and architecture. It was in 2006 that Johann Rupert initiated the search for all vineyards in South Africa older than 40 years. The objective of the project is to encourage farmers to keep these vineyards, or pieces of history, in the ground by offering the farmers a premium for their fruit. Although the yield per hectare becomes lower with age, the quality of the fruit increases drastically and the wines offer more complexity and structure. In the past, grapes from surviving old vines were simply added to a blend without distinction. The Cape of Good Hope range strives to vinify these old blocks separately and attempts to express the terroir of the vineyard through the vine. The greatest portion of old vines was tracked down through VinPro and SAWIS archives by viticulturist, Rosa Kruger, who was at L’Ormarins when this project was conceived. Chris Loubser and Johan Nel, farm managers at L’Ormarins and Riebeeksrivier respectively, also sourced some of these vineyards. Over 100 vineyards older than 40 years have been tracked down over the years. It is thanks to this effort that the initiative has seen wines produced from bushvine Semillon planted in the Citrusdal mountain in 1950 on the farm now owned by Henk Laing; bushvine Pinotage planted on top of the Paardeberg Mountain in 1956 on the farm now owned by Stefan Basson; bushvine Chenin blanc planted in the Citrusdal mountain in 1964 on farms now owned by Bassie van Lill of Arbeidsend and Jozua Visser of Oudam; and, Hanepoot planted in Breedekloof in 1882 on a farm owned today by Neels Boonzaaier. The tale of how each vine was located is fascinating in itself considering the very limited written historical record. Johan Nel tells for example of one small vine block flourishing in a remote wasteland thanks to roots that burrowed over decades deep into the earth; bush vines the size of trees; and tell-tale vine arrangements planted in the higgledy-piggledy fashion of early farmers. These vines, the oldest of which date back to 1882, survived the tempestuous and most exciting years that created South Africa’s wine industry today. Among them, there was Phylloxera in 1886, and the birth of the powerful KWV in 1918; the development of Pinotage in the late 1920s and emergence of Wine of Origin in legislation in 1970s.
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WINE
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WINE
Intimately linked to this historical procession was the arrival in 1694 of Jean Roi in the Drakenstein. As the first owner of L’Ormarins – the modern-day home of Anthonij Rupert Wyne – he planted 4,000 vines. In 1799 a cellar was built on the farm followed by a manor house in 1811 – both were restored in 1984. The late Dr Anton Rupert acquired L’Ormarins in 1969. He is remembered as an industrialist, but he was a formidable contributor to the South African wine and liquor industry through among others ownership of L'Ormarins and La Motte; and, business interests in Stellenbosch Farmers Winery and Distillers Corporation, the forerunners of South African wine and liquor giant Distell. L’Ormarins has always been the home of Anthonij Rupert Wyne, but gives its name to the L'Ormarins Méthode Cap Classique wine too. This is a premium Brut MCC NV, the brainchild of the late Anthonij Rupert who dedicated much of his time in creating the perfect MCC for L'Ormarins. After his untimely passing, Johann Rupert took up the pursuit of this vision. The Anthonij Rupert Wyne flagship range is bottled under the name Anthonij Rupert and its first vintage was released in 2009 with the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah of the 2005 vintage all scoring 90+ in the authoritative Wine Spectator. The state-of-the-art cellar, with revolving ceiling and underground barrel cellar, in which they are made was completed in 2005 and erected in memory of Anthonij Rupert. The range of Italian varietal wines, Terra del Capo, was conceived by Anthonij Rupert in 1997. A year later Terra Del Capo wines were produced in at Rupert and Rothschild, moving to L’Ormarins at the turn of the millennium. The Anthonij Rupert Wyne portfolio is completed with Protea, a collection of wines dedicated to the diversity of varietal character. Along with the recently enlarged L’Ormarins estate, Anthonij Rupert Wyne includes the Altima, Riebeeksrivier and Rooderust farms. Altima, situated near Villiersdorp, was bought in 2008. Altima lies in the Elandskloof, an isolated valley surrounded by a steep mountain range. During winter these mountains are typically covered with snow and the highest vineyards occasionally too. The climate is continental due to the huge difference in temperature between day and night, and is ideal for grape vine development.
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Riebeeksrivier on the slopes of the Kasteelberg overlooks the Swartland. The farm's history dates back to the early 1700s although it first vineyards were only planted in 1972. Old Chenin Blanc vines planted in the late 1980s and Cinsaut planted in the early to mid 1990s still produce a good quality crop. The Rupert family acquired the farm in 2007, specifically for the production of high quality Rhône cultivars. Rooderust farm has approximately 120ha under vines on even land and is situated in the Darling area, 13km from the Atlantic Ocean. It was bought in 1998 and produces a consistently high quality crop thanks to the low rainfall and sea breezes during summer. As for L’Ormarins, the farm has a combination of both low-lying land as well as moderate to steep slopes. The vineyards are mainly planted on the slopes of the Groot Drakenstein Mountains where the granite soils produce robust, expressive wines. Some of the vineyards have also been planted more densely to give true expression to the terroir, using vertical pruning systems and the typical échalas style of the Rhône region in France. The neighbouring property that formerly belonged to Graham Beck Wines has been integrated. Most of the vineyards were uprooted and only the Chardonnay and Pinot noir blocks were left as these grapes will be used for MCC production. Also situated at L’Ormarins is the Drakenstein Stud, home of champions including Trippi and Horse Chestnut; and, the renowned Franschhoek Motor Museum, which remains a prominent destina-
All images cour tesy of Ruper t Wines
tion for motoring enthusiasts.
THE
TERRA
DEL
CAPO
TA STING
ROOM
is open Tuesdays to Sun-
days from 10.00 to 16.30, and the Anthonij Rupert Tasting Room is open Mondays to Saturdays from 10.00 to 16.30. Both are closed on Good Friday and Christmas day. For further information, call 021 874 9004 or email tasting@rupertwines.com.
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Jaguar F-Type Coupé takes a Bow DREAM CARS
What pressure. To design the successor to a car the notoriously prickly Enzo Ferrari described as the “most beautiful car ever made”; to reinvent the arguably most revered car ever built. To build the new Jaguar E-Type. by Richard Lane
The 1961 Jaguar E-Type was the fastest car in the world at launch, but at the same time cost less than a fifth of what Enzo’s 250 GT California Spyder cost. Disc brakes and a central steel monocoque made it one of the most technologically innovative cars ever assembled, too, while its aircraft-derived aerodynamics had never before been seen on a road-car. The intervening half century-or-so since the E-Type Fixed Head Coupé first saw the light of day has only served to distil expectation for a successor. There have been a couple of false dawns, notably an unusually ovoid but not unattractive concept in 2000, but now we have it. The new F-Type Coupé was simultaneously unveiled at the Los Angeles Auto Show and Tokyo Motor Show late last month, just over a year after the Convertible was revealed in Paris. The F-Type’s designer, Ian Callum, was just three years old when the original Malcolm Sayer-designed (and extraordinarily frisky) E1A prototype began testing. A few years later that car had become the E-Type, a car Callum believes “encapsulated the spirit of the revolutionary era it came to symbolize.” Quite a machine, then. “Creating a sports coupé is the purest of design tasks, and also the most challenging; get it right and aesthetically the results will be as dynamic as the car should be rewarding to drive. In the F-Type Coupé, I believe we’ve got it right,” he says.
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DREAM CARS
Aesthetically Ian Callum and his right-hand men, Julian Thompson and Matt Beavan, certainly have got it ‘right’. The long bonnet, tapered rear and low profile catapult the Coupé right to the top of the desirability stakes. Buyers will get the choice of either an aluminium or glass roof. Performance – equally important in this arena – ranges from decisive to devastating. The base F-Type Coupé uses a 3.0-litre V6 to develop a Stuttgart-bating 335hp. Next up is the likely best-selling V6 S, with 375bhp, while unique to Coupé drivers is the option of a V8-engined 542bhp F-Type R. True to company form the F-Type R will need to be somewhat cajoled off the line – it’s 0-60mph time of four seconds dead won’t trouble out-and-out supercars – but once into its stride the car’s acceleration will be as relentless as it is frightening. Jaguar says 50-75mph takes just 2.4 seconds. Power is sent through ZF’s lucid paddle-operated eight-speed transmission and into the rear wheels. What proportion of that power is translated into forward motion will depend on the driver's control (or otherwise) of his or her right foot. Fast Jaguars have always held thespian talents. Dense white tire smoke aside, in skilled hands there’s no doubt that not much – perhaps nothing costing less than £100,000 – will be able to live with the F-Type R out on the open road. In the power stakes rivals include the Audi R8 V10 Plus (£125,810, 542bhp), the Porsche 911 Turbo S (£140,852, 552bhp) and, whisper it, the Aston Martin V12 Vantage S (£138,000, 565bhp). Exalted company indeed, and within which the plucky Brit looks something of a bargain, at £85,000. That characteristic Jaguar blend of grace and pace has helped the Convertible outsell Porsche’s iconic 911 since its market launch in April and the German outfit won’t exactly welcome a lighter, faster, better looking and better to drive version into showrooms around the world. The rest of us certainly will.
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FALCON 5X PLANES
For several decades, Dassault Aviation has been one of the foremost aerospace companies, enjoying a strong presence in over 80 countries and across 20, premiered in 1963, the company has pioneered innovative business jets, delivering over 2,250 jets. The Falcon 5X, revealed to the public in October 2013, is the latest record breaking private jet by Dassault, a twinjet with the largest cross section, in business aviation. Eric Trappier, Chairman and CEO of Dassault Aviation declares that, “With the Falcon 5X, Dassault has expanded the limits of what is possible in a business jet�.
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All images cour tesy of Dassault Aviation
PLANES
The new Falcon 5X will be powered by the newly developed 11,450-lb thrust Snecma Silvercrest engines, currently the most efficient powerplant in business aviation. Combining highly developed aerodynamics with ultra-efficient has a sizeable impact on fuel efficiency, with the jet requiring 50% less than any competitor’s comparable product. The aircraft will have a balanced field length of approximately 1,600 metres and an approach speed of 105 kias at typical landing weight. Highly flexible, the jet will be able to land at 95% of its Max Take Off Weight. The Falcon 5X engines, a pair of advanced Snecma Silvercrest high-bypass engines, deliver 11,450 lbs of thrust each, and feature a best-in-class bypass radio. The wing will feature a 33° swept angle and unique curved trailing edge, increasing buffet margin by 15%, without impacting weight or flexibility. Desiring a maximum of traveller comfort, the Dassault Falcon 5X combines impressive performance details with the largest cabin cross section currently on the market. Eric Trappier explains that, “There is simply more space, which will create a better sense of well-being.” The cabin will be 1.98 metres high and 2.58 metres wide and 11.80 metres long, allowing for ease of movement and moments of privacy. The sizeable interior will be able to accommodate up to 16 passengers in complete comforts, and will feature three lounges with personalised according to the owner’s wishes. To further allow for journeys in style, the Dassault Interior Design Studio, which was a part of the aircraft’s creation from the very start, placed emphasis on flowing and continuous lines, achieving a sense of space and calm. The Flacon 5X will be able to perform several remarkable one leg missions, such as Los Angeles to London City, Paris to Hong Kong or New York to Tel Aviv. With record breaking statistic and the highest comfort in cosmopolitan business travel, the Falcon 5X is the most innovative creation in contemporary aircrafts. With the first flight expected in 2015 and EASA and FAA certification before the close of 2016, the newest creation by Dassault is sure to be a success with customers.
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Magic 3 Carpet YACHTS
Launched in April 2013, the new wallycento Magic Carpet 3 has already become a legendary design in its own right. Since it’s inception, the yacht has won most of the regattas she participated in.
Owner and helmsman Si Lindsay Owen-Jones is delighted with the newest creation, which took the team two years in planning developing and building. The yacht, according to Owen-Jones, is very fast, beautiful, comfortable, technologically advanced and easy to sail. Magic Carpet 3 has been developed by Reichel Pugh naval architects, with Wally creating the concept, and the exterior and interior design in the company’s signature, elegant yet functional, style. Magic Carpet 3 fully exploits the Wallycento box-rule to produce a fast seaworthy sound cruiser-racer with the latest performance technology. This yacht combines the greatest comforts and elegant style with a truly fast performance and acceleration. The shipyard Wally Europe used high/intermediate modulus carbon and female mould CNC machined to limit the fairing. The yacht is the lightest cruising yacht of this size built to this day, weighing 50 tons. Large open air living spaces, easy-sailing systems and cavernous interior volumes make Magic Carpet 3 a yacht for all occasions, both a racing thorough-bred and luxurious background for socialising. The social cockpit seats up to ten guests at a formal dinner. The yacht has two guest cabins and the owner’s stateroom all with private en-suites. The interior decoration features elegant teak and maple joinery and lacquered white ceiling and side, alongside sleek carbon details. The colour scheme continues the elegance of the two former Magic Carpets, combining heritage rich navy with crisp white.
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Images Š Guillaume Plisson
Secluded paRadise PLACES
Image cour tesy of COMO Hotels and Resor ts
of an exclusive resort, complete with facilities
Located on the wonderful Turks and Caicos Islands in the Northern Caribbean, this private island resort has been a key destination for over a decade. Parrot cay is situated on Rocky Point, an island outcrop with dream beaches. With the world’s third largest coral reef system, and over 370.2km of seashores, the Turks and Caicos are holiday dreams come true! Founded by Christina Ong, COMO Hotels and Resorts has created an exclusive selected of properties, spanning cosmopolitan metropolis, idyllic islands, adventure destinations and wellness estates. Parrot Cay by COMO consists of a group of private luxury Beach Villas and Houses and more communal buildings. An accommodation wing includes 14 Ocean Facing Rooms, a number of COMO suits and 25 rooms with a view of the garden. All accommodation has private terraces and resplendent four poster beds with voile draping. Closer to the beach, private villas and houses celebrate elegant discretion as the last word in luxury. All private buildings, ranging from one bedroom to the three bedroom Beach Villas, have plunge pools. Interiors are designed by Keith Hobbs of United Designers, and combines a modern yet welcoming aesthetic with classic colonial-style details. Besides deluxe sleeping arrangements, this resorts offers a rich variety of facilities, including gourmet restaurants and the award winning COMO Shambala Retreat, which offers Yoga, Pilates and treatments. Overlooking mangroves and wetlands, be surprised by 175 species in their natural habitat, containing ruby-throated hummingbirds. A stay at Parrot Cay is rejuvenating for both body and mind!
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PL ACES TO STAY
FA IR MONT HOTEL
GR AND HYATT
LEGENDA LE HOTEL
CONR AD
Beijing
Beijing
Beijing
Hong Kong
FOUR SE ASONS HOTEL
ISLAND SHANGRI-LA
M A NDA R IN OR IEN TA L
THE R ITZ-C A R LTON
Hong Kong
Hong Kong
Hong Kong
Hong Kong
BANYAN TREE
THE VENETIAN
GR AND HYATT
INTERCONTINENTAL
Macau
Macau
Shanghai
C A R LTON / Cannes
JW MARRIOTT
HOTEL MANALI
HOTEL COSTES
HOTEL DE VENDÔME
Cannes
Courchevel
Paris
Paris
PA R K H YAT T
K ER ATON AT T H E PL A Z A
GR AND HYATT
G R A N D HO T E L S AVOI A
PA R I S - V E N D Ô M E / P a r i s
Jakarta
Jakarta
C o r t i n a d'A mpez zo
HO T E L C R I S TA L L O S PA
FOUR SE ASONS HOTEL
GR AND HOTEL VILLA
HO T E L S AVOY
& GOLF / C o r t i n a d ' A m p e z z o
Florence
M E DICI / Florence
Florence
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FOUR SE ASONS HOTEL
PA R K H YAT T
INTERCONTINENTAL
M A NDA R IN OR IENTA L
Milan
Milan
Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur
SHANGRI-LA
FA IR MONT HOTEL
HOTEL MÉTROPOLE
MON T E C A R LO BAY HOT E L
Kuala Lumpur
Monte Carlo
Monte Carlo
& R E SORT / M o n t e C a r l o
PA R K H YAT T A R A R AT
R ITZ- C A R LTON
UKR AINA HOTEL
FOUR SE ASONS HOTEL
Moscow
Moscow
Moscow
St. Petersburg
LE SERENO
LE TOINY
CAPELLA
GR AND HYATT
Saint Barthélemy
Saint Barthélemy
Singapore
Singapore
THE FULLERTON HOTEL
ARTS HOTEL
W BARCELONA
ONE&ONLY
Singapore
Barcelona
Barcelona
C a p e To w n
FOUR SE ASONS HOTEL
INTERCONTINENTAL
GR A N D HOT E L PA R K
G S TA A D PA L AC E
DE S BERGUE S / Geneva
HOTEL / Geneva
Gstaad
Gstaad
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PL ACES TO STAY
LE GRAND BELLEVUE
THE ALPINA GSTA AD
C A R LTON HOTEL
KEMPINSKI HOTEL
Gstaad
Gstaad
St. Moritz
St. Moritz
KULM HOTEL
INDIGO PEARL
E M I R AT E S PA L AC E
JUMEIR AH AT ETIHA D
St. Moritz
Phuket
Abu Dhabi
TOW ER S / Abu Dhabi
YAS V ICEROY
BURJ AL AR AB
CORINTHIA HOTEL
THE M AY FA IR HOTEL
Abu Dhabi
Dubai
London
London
T H E S AVOY
T H E S T. R E G I S
V ICEROY
London
Aspen
R E SORT / Aspen
Los Angeles
THE PENINSULA
M A NDA R IN OR IENTA L
THE SETAI
Los Angeles
Miami
Miami Beach
THE
BEV ER LY
HILLS
HOT E L / Los Angeles
SNOW MASS
HOTEL BEL-A IR
THE W SOUTH BEACH
FOUR SE ASONS HOTEL
M A NDA R IN OR IENTA L
R I T Z - C A R LT O N C E N T R A L
Miami
Ne w York
Ne w York
PA R K / N e w Y o r k
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www.grandhotelpark.ch
DY NAST Y of SCENT BEAUTY
Using the alias Juliette has a Gun, Romano Ricci has been surprising fragrance enthusiasts. Romano’s fashionable linage can be traced back to legendary Parisian couturier Nina Ricci. Her husband and Romano’s grandfather, Robert Ricci, created some of the most iconic perfumes to date, including the classic ‘L’Air du Temps’.
Initially devoted to becoming a race driver, Romano decided to follow his family’s occupation. After four years of apprenticeship in perfumery, Romano joined fabled Maison Francis Kurkdijan. Since 2006, Romano uses Juliette has a Gun as vehicle for his boundless olfactory creativity. Updating Shakespeare’s lore of tragic love by giving Julia a weapon, the gun can also be seen as a symbol of the temptation of potent scents. Alongside fragrances such as Anyway, a fresh scent using a restricted number of ingredients, and the explosive Mad Madame, Juliette has a Gun now also includes a very limited offering for collectors. 999 bottles of Oil Fiction come in numbered, lacquered wooden boxes and comprise a heady combination of exclusive oriental notes.
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HOLLY WOOD’S Der matologist BEAUTY
“I owe 50 percent of my beauty to my mother and 50 percent to Erno Laszlo” confessed Audrey Hepburn. Trusted by countless stars of Hollywood’s Golden Era and European Royalty alike, Erno Laszlo’s legendary products continue to strive for perfection. Aside from a rather strict daily regiment, prescribing the use of specific amounts of water to splash the skin, the Hungarian born, American dermatologist patented his ‘phormulation’, eight times during this lifetime. Designed to both heal and protect from future damage, it has last been updated in 2001 by a researcher inspecting Laszlo’s personal archive posthumously. Now in its ninth re-incarnation, the phormula is used within new products celebrating Laszlo’s lasting legacy. The Phormula 3-9 Repair Cream is suitable to all skin types and should be approached as a ‘nutritional supplement’ for the skin. The cream deeply hydrates and calms, while antioxidant ingredients allow for renewed skin cell energy. The newly released Phormula 3-9 Eye Repair achieves miraculous results on a targeted area. The original phormula has been enriched with a potent cocktail of ingredients, including invigorating caffeine and nourishing Maruna Oil, the cream both deeply moisturise and de-puffs the eye area. Evocative of Erno Laszlo’s former clients, the brand offers a selection of indulgent yet highly effective treatments. The pink, peel-off Hydra Therapy Skin Vitality Mask requires the mixing of two potent ingredients minutes before use, allowing ingredients to fulfil their attributes in their prime. Vitamin B5, Zinc Oxide and Allantoin promote thoroughly hydrated, rejuvenated and calm skin. The Transphuse Age Defying Mask targets fine lines and wrinkles, leaving skin plump and glowing. Antioxidant Cranberry Seed Oil detoxifies skin and the plant derived Gatuline Expression relaxes muscles.
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addresses
T h e Jo Han sford S alon For two decades, Jo Hansford MBE has been transforming loyal client’s tresses in London’s historically elegant Mayfair. The first salon opened in 1993 in Mount Street, with a mere eight staff. Twenty years later, the team has grown to fifty, and operates from bigger, lavishly designed premises on South Audley Street, with Balenciaga and Marc Jacobs as neighbours. Celebrated by American Vogue as ‘the best tinter on the planet’, Jo Hansford’s team specialises in colour corrections after unfortunate mishaps, and offers a unique consultation process to listen and offer expert advice. The styling and colour teams work in complete harmony to achieve the perfect look!
T he Berk eley Hot el Health Club & S pa The Berkeley Hotel's Rooftop Pool is an oasis of tranquillity, in the middle of the bustling city. A specially created system of roof sliders allow the space to be adaptable to the city temperamental weather. Inside, the Bamford Haybarn Spa, part of the Berkeley Health Club & Spa, offers a delightful selection of treatments. The Calming Retreat package is the perfect antidote to a busy party season. It includes a Bamford full body exfoliation and Jade Hot and Cold Stone Treatment, followed by a revitalising facial. Finish with the signature pedicure and a light lunch for full bliss!
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PETR A NEMCOVA IN CONVERSATION WITH
As a teenager, Petra Nemcova found international fame as one of the world’s most bankable super models. Aside several lucrative business and entertainment ventures, Petra has added philanthropy to her list of achievements, combining an astute sense of style with personal convictions.
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Image by Derek Kettela
CHILDHOOD When I was eleven, the Velvet Revolution introduced Western influences. It was the introduction of the Fashion TV. I thought “Wow, I would love to do that!”. My parents supported me greatly because they didn’t have the opportunities and they didn’t have the possibility to travel, to dream. I remember my mum ironing my clothes before sending me off to castings and ensuring also that I follow my studies. They supported me on both, my education and to follow my dreams. I had zero idea of what the business really entails internationally as I started my career just locally, in Czech Republic age 15 and left at 18. I have learned my lessons, which has given me strength and shaped me into who I am now. While I had some bad experiences, I met the most beautiful individuals in the industry. Not just beautiful physically but beautiful on the inside. They stayed my best friends and have been supporting me throughout my life. I feel lucky that I was able to follow my dream.
PHILANTHROPY Helping others has always been ingrained in me. I remember, as a child, I stayed home over the weekend, to help mum with the cleaning. I knew she had a lot to do – not to say that I wasn’t rebellious, I was quite rebellious in my teens – but helping has always been part of my personality. The tsunami in Thailand in 2004 influenced me greatly and on many levels. It helped me understand fundamental needs. When I was able to walk again, I went with my sister and a few friends to see what the biggest needs were few months later after – which was rebuilding schools! As children were forgotten after first responders left. Schools proved to create a great impact within the community. When children go back to school they get sense of normality and start healing. When a new school is built, it serves as the community and it gives hope and strength to the people to rebuild. What we see as well, is that families from other communities, move to communities with save, disaster prove schools, which we have rebuilt. This increases economic activity and growth for the community. So, the impact of re-building schools is many fold. Life can be quite funny in this way! Going back to my roots – my mum is a teacher and my dad used to build houses. And now with Happy Hearts Fund we are rebuilding schools!
MODELLING Personally, helping others was always part of me. When setting up Happy Hearts Fund, I took a very structured stance. I took example from the best and set in place particular structures, such as 0% admin which is covered by the board of directors, to follow a best practice. I went back to school, Cambridge and London Business School, to learn more about management and governance. People put you in a box and I quite like the challenge, but if I look at it, it was a very important long term investment. My fashion career was built on being the sexy, Sports Illustrated, Victoria’s Secret model. When I started my philanthropic work, I knew no one was going to take me seriously when seeing me in a bathing suit one day and speaking at the United Nations assembly the next. So I made the conscious decision not to do anything sexy, until the beginning of 2011. From then on, people knew I took my philanthropy work very seriously. This way we created a reputation, achieved great results and credibility. Therefore, I could start following my original fashion path again.
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LIFESTYLE Happy Hearts Fund has been focusing on rebuilding schools after natural disasters when First Responders leave. We have been established as a charity in 2006, which means that by the end of this year, 2013 we are celebrating seven years. Within those seven years we have rebuilt 84 schools, impacting more than 44,000 children and 450,000 community members. All these results are because of caring people with the same goal coming together – from our sponsors, like Clinique, Chopard and United Airlines, to individual donors, to our volunteers, to our amazing team in New York and partners on the ground. It is really a collective effort of many caring hearts coming together setting the same goal. When you help someone with rebuilding school or bringing opportunities to them you make them happy and at the same time you make yourself happy and learn from each other. I often see myself as a bridge between the two worlds and both have a lot to offer to each other.
PHILOSOPHY Growing up in Czech Republic we never heard the words energy and meditation. But I always knew there was more than the physical world, and when I left the Czech Republic I met a friend who told me about mediation and energy. It was a kind of home coming because I knew it always existed – the energy, the power of the mind and intention. We can heal ourselves physically and emotionally. It’s there to be used, and I felt that was the biggest key to my own healing. The biggest gift I got from life was being able to learn more about how I can use all these tools, all these wonderful tools which we have within during my healing after the tsunami, I practiced meditation, using healing energy and focusing on positivity – 5% positivity instead of 95% of pain and sadness – helped me heal within four months as opposed to other patients that can take up to two years to heal from the same injuries. There is a very famous saying, which we all know, “Be the change that you want to see in the world”, and it is much more effective than some may think. Because by transforming ourselves with our thinking, with our intentions, with our actions most of all; we automatically change things around
Image cour tesy of Petra Nemcova
us because the outside world reacts differently to us. There is a lot of power in every thought we have everyday.
FIRST COLUMN Sakib Shaw, Mark Baker & Nick Carpenter Indrawan Masrin & Farida Masrin Lusi Kasul Ekson Tjandranegara, Mr & Mrs Eka Njandranegara, Petra Nemcova & John Andrews SECOND COLUMN Mansor Tun Abdul A ziz & Nik Marini Karim Bambang Sulist yo, Sultan Hamengku Buwono, Petra Nemcova & Jimmi A srin Mr & Mrs Bambang Sulist yo
THIRD COLUMN Silvia Gunawan, Liza Sutrisno & Eliana Putri A strid Sur yatenggara Klous Woizik & Niniek Purnomo FOURTH COLUMN Bernard & Felicia Tan Yayang Irna Mareta Sarah Wachjo
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IN CONVERSATION WITH NEXT STEP I believe that you can achieve whatever you put your mind and intentions to – of course it requires hard work and little bit of luck too – but sometimes, you have to decide first what you want to do first, set your priorities and let the rest fall in place. I wear four hats at the moment. Besides my fashion hat, there is the philanthropy hat with Happy Hearts Fund and as Ambassador at Large of Haiti. I feel extremely honoured to serve that role, and feel hugely responsible for the work I do. My role is connecting the dots between companies and opportunities in Haiti, which are many. There is a huge gap between the perception and reality of Haiti. The perception of Haiti is that it is obviously very poor, but the reality is that there is also lots of richness in incredible nature, culture and history. Jacmel (town in south Haiti) is an incredible culture hub for artists for example. You have stunning nature and pristine beaches on the island names Ill A Vache, and the North is full of history, with a citadel which is the oldest forth in the Northern Hemisphere. Because of that richness there is lots to work with, lots of opportunities, in tourism, in craft and arts, and in manufacturing. So much rebuilding has been done since the earthquake. New roads, new homes, houses, hotels – within 10 months there have been three huge hotels opening just in Port au Prince. It brings me joy to be part of the rebuilding of Haiti. My fourth hat is an entrepreneur hat. I launched a home decor brand, named Be the Light New York – which takes you on an exciting journey around the world through bringing treasures from travel to you homes and life. The first collection is the luxury candle collection, which has been developed and launched with Bergdorf Goodman and is entirely made in the USA with artisans. Each candle is inspired by a country, its treasure and the meaning of the treasure. An example is Indonesian Patchouli Peace, with the meaning of peacefulness. Czech Holiday Cookie with the meaning of family togetherness. The next collection, Made in Peru is launching in December and it is a collection of blankets and pillows made from baby alpaca, which is the second softest fiber in the world. 2014 is the tenth year anniversary of the tsunami and we have lots of plans for the coming year which we are working on with Happy Hearts Fund. To commemorate the special year, one of the goals is to rebuild 100 schools, by the end of 2014. And many others… Petra Nemcova & Friend Petra Nemcova & Sultan Hamengku Buwono Ir wan D. Mussr y & Petra Nemcova Guests of the Happy Hear ts Foundation Charit y Gala
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SOCIAL SEASON
K A Z & C H L OE Birthday & Anniversary in Vienna The celebration of both Kamel Alzarka’s birthday and the anniversary of his marriage to Chloe took place in the majestic Hofburg in Vienna. After choosing Versailles in 2011 and Hampton Court Palace in 2012, the focus now shifted to a former Austrian royal family. Invited guests arrived in period dress, evoking memories of history’s grandest spectacles and the castle’s former inhabitant Empress Elisabeth known as ‘Sisi’.
FIRST COLUMN Makram Abboud, Rena Sindi, Kaz Alzarka, Shadi & Bruce Ritchi Oliver Bizon & Carol A sscher Nadya Arsekina & Gabriele Salvadori Andrea Preiss, Markus Gull & Shadi Ritchie Glynn Cohen & Kaz Alzarka Natalie & Marco Di Cesaria SECOND COLUMN Naike Bokan, Julie Masson, Rober t & Irina Thielen Shadi Ritchie, Lisa Tchenguiz & Mubarak Al Khalifa Lisa & Bassam Sammam Sarah Fisher, Tarek Haffar & Ella Krasner Viviane Edde, Lisa Tchenguiz, Kasia Al Thani, Ender Mermerci & Stefan d'Angieri Shadi Ritchie, Rober t Tchenguiz, Ginta Biku & Bruce Ritchie THIRD COLUMN Andy Wong, Kaz & Chloe Alzarka Denise Rich, Peter Cer vinka & Son Andrea Dibelius & Germano Valle Kam Babaee, Ginta Biku & Rober t Tchenguiz Lamia Khashoggi & Fabrizio Cerina Arnold & Paola Rosenhein, Chloe & Kaz Alzarka, Niki & Terence Cole
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SOCIAL SEASON
L OU IS X I I I Royal Banquet in Hong Kong More than 400 guests celebrated in period royal style with maverick businessman Stephen Hung at the Grand Hyatt Macau. The theme, ‘French Royal Baroque’, allowed a glimpse at Hung’s current large project, the luxury hotel Louis XIII, set to open dazzled with jewellery exceeding HK$ 2 billion on display within the unrestrainedly decorated ballroom. Deborah Hung was the ‘Belle of the Ball ’in a glamorous Zuhair Murad couture gown, while some guests kept with the theme and opted for decadent fancy dress.
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Stephen & Deborah Hung
SOCIAL SEASON
FIRST COLUMN Michael Hui & Natalis Chan Helen Rong Louis-Arnaud l 'Herbier, Princess Tania de Bourbon Parme, Stephen & Deborah Hung SECOND COLUMN Susanna Yiu & Alastair Lam THIRD COLUMN Graff Diamonds Jeweller y Show Anina Ho
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B O R N
B Y
PA S S I O N
AMADEO 速 FLEURIER VIRTUOSO 5 - DAY TO U R B I L L O N J U M P I N G H O U R S MINUTE RETROGRADE WITH REVERSED HAND-FITTING
13 NEW BOND STREET W1 T: +44 207 409 2237 london@adler.ch
B OV E T F L E U R I E R
SWITZERLAND
FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE QUALITY FLEURIER CERTIFICATION AND PARTNER OF THE FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE
B OV E T. C O M
F U L LY I N T E G R AT E D C O N V E R T I B L E CA S E
SOCIAL SEASON
K A R L L AGE R F E L D Shop Launch in Paris The fashion designer, photographer, writer and beacon of elegance, invited to the glamorous unveiling of his stand-alone boutique in the ‘City of Lights’. Located in St. Germains, the shop’s sleek black the store features a multitude of delectable accessories and objects, all brought to live via innovative, digital customer interaction. The Opening Party was attended by a who’s who of the Fashion World. Guests were treated to the host’s drink of choice; Diet Coke, served in a crystal glass he designed for Swedish brand Orrefors.
FIRST COLUMN Jade Jagger Theophilus London & Arizona Muse SECOND COLUMN Geordon Nicol & Leigh Lezark - The Misshapes Carine Roitfeld & Stephen Gan THIRD COLUMN Stefano Tonchi & Giovanna Battaglia
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SOCIAL SEASON
FIRST COLUMN Angelica Cheung, Karl Lager feld & Franca Sozzani Karl Lager feld Saskia de Brauw & Karl Lager feld THIRD COLUMN Zhang Zilin
SOCIAL SEASON
SE DUC E D & A B A N D ON E D Première After Party in Cannes The première of the behind the scenes drama ‘Seduced and Abandoned’ featured a glittering mix of A-list du Soixantième Theatre Cannes’ was followed by an invitation only dinner, attended by 50 guests. Hosted by Denise Rich, the dinner took place on deck of the legendary philanthropists’ yacht, docked amounts of U’Luvka Vodka and a staggering 100 cases of Perrier-Jouët Champagne.
FIRST COLUMN Larr y, Loren & Michelle Herber t, Marla, Alan & Hayley Helene, Neal & Stacey Schneider, Michael Mailer & Denise Rich Fawaz Gruosi & Denise Rich Ekaterina Ganiyenko & Hayley Helene SECOND COLUMN James & Andrei Toback Larr y & Michelle Herber t THIRD COLUMN Hakan & Claire Gokgurler CREDITS Red Carpet Picture© Ian Gavan All the other pictures © Michael Buckner
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SOCIAL SEASON
FIRST COLUMN James, Stephanie & Andrei Toback, Hilaria Thomas & Alec Baldwin Paris Hilton & River Viiperi JD Moran & Ariana Inoescu SECOND COLUMN Alan & Marla Helene THIRD COLUMN Grace Potter & Matt Burr John Bernard & Jeremy Thomas
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The classic personality of the 1815
the classically designed mechanisms of the perpetual calendar and
is recognisable at first sight. The railway-track minute scale and the
of the chronograph with a rattrapante function. With its elaborate,
Arabic numerals take their inspiration from earlier A. Lange & Söhne
traditionally implemented complications, this watch pays tribute to
pocket watches. A close look at the L101.1 manufacture calibre reveals
the achievements of Ferdinand A. Lange. www.lange-soehne.com
You are cordially invited to discover the A. Lange & Söhne collection at our Boutiques: Abu Dhabi · Dresden · Dubai · Hong Kong · Lisboa ·
·
· Seoul · Shanghai · Singapore · Tokyo
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Delfina Delettrez
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Paris Hyatt Madeleine
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Penelope Chilvers
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Sulwhasoo The Wolseley Tom Binn Design
Harrods
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Tom Daxon
House of Waris
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Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet
Hua Tunan Hublot Isabelle Chapuis Italia Independent
1 6 2 | Issue N3
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Venyx World Wally Wes Lang Yusupov Palace
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HAUTE JOAILLERIE
White gold necklace set with brilliant-cut diamonds, pear-shaped blue sapphire and cushion-cut blue sapphire
piaget.com