edge with the existing groove. Watch that the bearing properly contacts your workpiece. Also, you may wish to cut into the middle of the arch, or climb-cut a portion of the arch. Door panels on the original box were highly figured grain, but the frame was very straight-grained wood. The contrast was strong and that’s good. My frames are highly figured, so I chose less figured panels to maintain the contrast. Choose wisely. To fit panels to the frames, I’ve found it easiest to measure the panel area, then add 5⁄8" to the overall length and width to allow for movement; two grooves at 3 ⁄8" in depth is 3 ⁄4", so there’s 1 ⁄8" for movement. That’s a bit much for panels this narrow, so I cut my panels at 11 ⁄16". Lay out the panel centerline and mark the top edge of the shoulder cutline. Position your compass 5 ⁄16" from that intersection. The arch is equal to the radius used on the top rail plus 5 ⁄16". Cut to your lines then check the fit. Sand the panels to #180 grit for finishing, then assemble the door using glue for the mortises and tenons; don’t glue the panel. Each joint receives a 3 ⁄16" square peg. To keep the pegs from drawing too much attention, use the same hardwood as you did for the frame.
Hardware & Finish With the door complete, take your time as you attach it to the box. Simple brass butt hinges work fine and are true to the original design. (Be sure to check the screw length due to the rabbeted side.) Your door should have an equal reveal on all four edges and it helps to bevel the lock edge for a tighter fit to the case. Install your lock so the pin is 1 ⁄ 2" above the door center. (This adds the perception of height to the case.) Drawer knobs are installed after the finish work is complete. Each knob is centered to the drawer fronts with the bottom drawer knobs aligned side to side with the knobs directly above. I dyed my box with a mixture of onethird Moser’s golden amber maple and two-thirds brown walnut, then added a coat of boiled linseed oil to highlight the figured grain before adding multiple layers of shellac. To dull the shellac sheen, rub the box with #0000 steel wool then add a coat of wax.
Watch the setup. If the bearing rides too high on the moulded edge, it might be best to make the slot cut with the rail face down so the bearing contacts the square edge.
Here’s the point. Increase the radius of the panels’ arched tops by 5 ⁄16" with the compass point set below the top shoulder by an equal amount. Figure-popping tip. Boiled linseed oil soaks into figured grain adding depth. Give the oil plenty of time to dry before applying a shellac sealer coat.
After the box is finished, cut and fit a backboard with the grain running side to side. If you use multiple pieces, halflap the edges. The back is left unfinished and is nailed to the case sides. I don’t think spices are kept in these boxes today. You’re more apt to find mementos and keepsakes stored in the drawers, which is why some folks call this design a “valuables box.” Valuables or not, I think it’s spicy hot. PWM
u Go Online FOR MORE … For links to all these online extras, go to: u popularwoodworking.com/aug11 VIDEO: See how to size the drawer parts from the drawer fronts. ARTICLE: Read about the best and worst
qualities of premium dovetail saws. BLOG: Develop your own ogee bracket
feet design using Google SketchUp. TO BUY: Discover advanced dovetail
techniques with Charles Bender. IN OUR STORE: Learn in-depth finishing
techniques with “Finishes That Pop.” Glen is senior editor of this magazine and teaches project-based classes at many of the best woodworking schools in the country. Contact him at 513-531-2690 x11293 or glen.huey@fwmedia.com.
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