EAT // Summer 2022 by Carly Arnold

GRILLINGSUMMER KEEP IT SIMPLE BOTTOMS– UP COCKTAILSSUMMER an epicurean experience - summer 2022Lunch, DinnerTreats , Drinks , RESTAURANTSCOUNTY'SEAGLEBEST

SUMMER’S HAPPIEST HOUR Come in for Vail’s largest selection of beer, wine and spirits Or stay put and we’ll bring it to you. Free delivery on orders over $75. 970-476-CORK WESTVAIL.COM LOCATED IN THE WEST VAIL MALL NEXT TO SAFEWAY!

Many local chefs started out cooking the way many a home cook does — standing on a chair to reach the stove and stirring a pot of this or that for Mom. You graduate from task to task, learning as you go. It’s the same in professional kitchens.

VAIL DAILY PUBLISHER Mark mwurzer@vaildaily.comWurzer

Vail Valley restaurants are delicious, delightful places. On these pages, you can read about many of them. Happy EATing, Wren Bova EDITOR

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Culinary school is great, offering a primer on technique, history, context. It can provide a way to organize that knowledge, too — a way to give it structure. But it’s not the only way.

“Chefs have to be teachers and mentors,” explains Chef Tim McCaw of Vin48. “That’s just how it is. It’s about the knowledge you have that you want to pass on to someone else. Some kids might go to culinary school but they’re getting that education in such a short window. There’s so much to learn. You couldn’t possibly get it all in school.”

CIRCULATION MANAGER David dhakes@vaildaily.comHakes

2 EAT summer 2022

CONTRIBUTORS Kristin Anderson, Brent Bingham, Katie Coakley, Brenda Himelfarb, Kimberly Nicoletti, Christine Rice, Andy Stonehouse, Josh Thoma DESIGN TEAM Jordan Lugibihl, Malisa Samsel

This has been obvious for as long as I’ve been covering the restaurant scene in the Vail Valley, but it’s not unique to Vail by any means. It’s part and parcel of cookery, which relies on a passing-down of knowledge. Kitchens are really just laboratories, and chefs a particular type of scientist, running experiments again and again while searching for the results they want.

And perhaps that’s why professional chefs often have a little extra creative energy: They’re always engaged in learning and experimenting, with the big payoff of making people happy. The hours are brutal, but it’s certainly a passion career. And that does something for the spirit.

VAIL DAILY AD DIRECTOR Danielle dhanson@vaildaily.comHanson EDITOR Wren wren@vaildaily.comBova ART DIRECTION & DESIGN Carly Arnold hello@carlyarnold.comCreative PHOTO EDITOR Dominique taylordmedia@icloud.comTaylor

As I teach my 8-year-old various tasks in my own kitchen, I see how each new skill empowers her. And it’s an easy line to draw from there, to the self-confidence so many chefs exude. They carry their legacy within their brains and hands, able to walk into any kitchen and do what they do. Plus, they feed people. Not a bad skillset. It’s been a crazy couple of years for the restaurant scene, but that hasn’t stopped the creativity and drive.

Copyright ©2022 Colorado Mountain News Media. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Adelaide Bova Jones practices her knife skills on a piece of salmon.

ALL THE BEST CHEFS ARE TEACHERS. ALL THE BEST CHEFS CAN TEACH.

EDITOR’S LETTER

FSFour Seasons Vail Residence A Masterpiece of Craftsmanship and Design 5 Bedrooms | 6 Baths | Den | 2 Parking Spaces | Ski Storage and On-Site Storage Ski slope views, attention to every detail imaginable through the exquisite Four Seasons Vail. This is truly effortless living. Donna www.caynoski.comdcaynoski970.390.4324Caynoski@slifer.netdcaynoski

SUMMER IN THE ROCKIES IS AN INCREDIBLY photogenic season. It’s a colorful time of year with plenty of different activities to shoot as well as long days, great weather and beautiful scenic landscapes.

A triple scoop on a waffle cone: black raspberry ice cream, mango sorbet and cotton candy ice cream from Joe's Deli in Vail Village.

Dominique Taylor

There are creative, colorful cocktails to cool you down after a hot day of golfing and bright spicy pizzas to heat you up after an exhilarating day of whitewater rafting. Meanwhile, dishes like confit duck bao buns, octopus ceviche and the fresh fruit salsas that dress up your barbecued treats are as beautiful to look at as they are to eat. As the locals like to say “I came to the valley for the winters but stayed for the summers.” This summer I hope that EAT magazine will be your trail map to our photogenic seasonal fare and that our creative Colorado cuisine will be the hook, line and sinker that keeps you coming back to our valley for more summer fun.

PHOTO EDITOR AND FOOD LOVER PHOTO ’S LETTER ON THE COVER: PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE TAYLOR

EDITOR

As I jumped into photographing EAT this season I was impressed with how well our local eateries embrace these themes. Whether they are fueling your fun with a solid breakfast of heuvos rancheros or rewarding your stamina with three scoops of house-made ice cream after a full day hiking or mountain biking, food in our valley is designed to complement our summer mountain lifestyle and does so with picture-perfect finesse.

4 EAT summer 2022

It’s a season of action, adventure and entertainment — which all photograph well.

6 EAT summer 2022 52 PARTINGSHOT The "last bite" — dessert. 40 LIGHT THE FIRE The grill beckons for easy, summer-time meals BY WREN BOVA 11 PHOTO GALLERY Beautiful creations from talented chefs. BY DOMINIQUE TAYLOR 48 COCKTAILSSUMMER Try one of these magical elixirs 44 KANPAI! Savoring the complex, worldly taste of Japanese whisky BY ANDY STONEHOUSE 16 THE COMPENDIUMEAT Snapshot views of the valley's best restaurants. BY EAT STAFF

BY WREN BOVA PHOTOS... BY DOMINIQUE TAYLOR

Flavors/cuisine type you’re digging: Indian food. Breakfast, lunch or dinner? I love having nice dinners at home, especially on the deck. Go-to snack: Pecan nut thins and goat cheese. Ingredient you wish you could afford more regularly: Lobster. What’s on your grill? Chicken. Decadent pleasure: Flourless chocolate torte.

KIMBERLY NICOLETTI Writer

CONTRIBUTORS

BRENT BINGHAM Photographer Flavors you’re loving: Indian because we get it so infrequently and it’s one of my favorites. Breakfast, lunch or dinner: Dinner, especially if we go out somewhere nice. Go-to snack: Nuts. Reading or watching: Yotam Ottolenghi. Ingredient you wish you could afford more regularly: Lobster. On the grill: Veggies. Decadent pleasure: Sweet Basil’s Hot Sticky Toffee Pudding.

8 EAT summer 2022

WREN BOVA Editor Flavors you’re loving: Black pepper, shallots, lime, Aleppo pepper flakes. Breakfast, lunch or dinner: Breakfast because it’s first, and I will eat anything for it — soup, noodles, roasted veg. Lately it’s been a “breakfast salad,” topped with a poached egg. Go-to snack: Buttered toast. Reading or watching: “Midnight Diner” on Netflix. Milk Street cookbooks. J. Kenji Lopez Alt. Summer’s best cocktail: Paloma — love that citrus pop. Ingredient you wish you could afford more regularly: Real truffles, aged Italian parmesan for “everyday” usage. On the grill: Lamb — burgers, kebabs, chops. Jalapeños! Decadent pleasure: Gravy. And I’m having a love affair with all things potato. CARLY ARNOLD Art Director Cuisine type you’re digging: Vietnamese. Breakfast, lunch or dinner: Dinner! Go-to snack: Lately I have been making little charcuterie boxes I can with me take anywhere. Reading or watching: Half-Baked Harvest. Summer’s best cocktail: Spicy Margarita. On the grill: Kebabs. Decadent pleasure: Anything with salted caramel.

BRENDA HIMELFARB Writer Flavors you’re loving: A toss-up between Italian and French. Breakfast, lunch or dinner: Breakfast. Go-to snack: Any berry. Reading or watching: “Simple. The Easiest Cookbook in the World" Summer’s best cocktail: Screwdriver. Ingredient you wish you could afford more regularly: Anything with caviar. On the grill: You name it!! Everything that can be grilled. Decadent pleasure: Again… caviar.

DOMINIQUE TAYLOR Photo Editor and Writer Flavors you’re loving: Moroccan tajins. Breakfast, lunch or dinner: I love them all. I think about food before I open my eyes every morning, considering what I will eat all day. Go-to snack: Pirate’s Booty. Summer’s best cocktail: Japanese gin and lychee cocktail. Ingredient you wish you could afford more regularly: Saffron and lamb. On the grill: Lamb. Decadent pleasure: Tiramisu and Champagne.

SANDIE AVEIL Magazine Sales Manager Flavors you’re loving: Mountain Fish Co. aligns with my East Coast upbringing with fresh everything! Great vibes! Breakfast, lunch or dinner: Café 163 or Westside. I’m simple for breakfast – eggs, crispy bacon, sourdough toast and a spicy Bloody Mary! Favorite lunch is the Riva Ridge Sandwich from the Boardroom in Edwards. I save half for dinner. Reading or watching: I’ve always loved BEAT Bobby Flay. Summer’s best cocktail: Spicy Margaritas or Mojito. Ingredient you wish you could afford more regularly: Halibut. Decadent pleasure: Anywhere with a sunny patio and a cold drink. Oh! And the Lobster Roll at Boardroom. If I were to cook for a group of 6-8, linguini and clams.

KATIE COAKLEY Writer Flavors you’re loving: Korean — banchan is the perfect answer to decision fatigue. Breakfast, lunch or dinner: Brunch — best of breakfast food with no judgement if I wait until noon to eat it. Go-to snack: Nori wraps — super easy and customizable. Ingredient you wish you could afford more regularly: Caviar. On the grill: Watermelon and/or peaches. Decadent pleasure: Edible flowers.

THE PERFECT DAY OR NIGHT OUT 970.306.6161WWW.EDWARDSRIVERWALK.COM Stretching along the banks of the beautiful Eagle River, the Riverwalk experience will amaze your senses. Just minutes from Vail and Beaver Creek and always convenient, free covered parking. ALL OF THIS IS WAITING FOR YOU AT THE RIVERWALK AT EDWARDS. IT’S TIME FOR YOUR PERFECT DAY OR NIGHT OUT. OUTDOOR CONCERTS IN THE RIVERWALK BACKYARD BY THE RIVER THURSDAY NIGHTS FROM 6-8PM JULY 8TH THROUGH AUGUST 19TH MORE THAN 20 SHOPS & BOUTIQUES, DINING, ENTERTAINMENT, LODGING, WEDDINGS & OUTDOOR EVENTS PLUS RIVERSIDE WALKING TRAILS.

CreatingSinceHeirlooms1970 VAIL DAN970.476.4760VILLAGETELLEEN Olive Shell and Antique Glass Bead Necklace Ancient Stone Thunderbird 1913 Five Dollar Gold Coin Small Arrowhead 22K Gold

Fine Fish

Sauce on the Creek's panroasted halibut, crispy polenta and sprout salad is lovely with a cucumber-basil gimlet.

PigTales

Vin48’s pork du jour is a rotating special utilizing various cuts from the whole pigs the restaurant buys from Colorado ranchers. The pork chop is shown atop roasted root vegetables and celeriac puree, and crowned with a tangle of microgreens along with a cutting-board salsa and pan juices. But don’t get too attached, because it changes almost daily.

The Clubhouse Salad at the Vail Golf Club’s Grill on the Gore is a summertime treat with a crunchy sea of greens, Colorado goat cheese, avocado, candied pecans and the crown jewel: sweet strawberries.

DECA

FullStrike

Shared plates are the best plates. + BOL’s lasagna flatbread with house-made ricotta, charcuterie board with cheese, nuts, cured meats and fruit, and wahoo ceviche with tortilla chips.

16 EAT summer 2022 19 Alpenrose 20 The Assembly 21 Boardroom Market & Deli 22 Bob's Place 23 Deca + Bol 24 El Segundo 25 The Fitz 26 Fondue at Home 27 Grill on the Gore 28 Grouse Mountain Grill 29 The Hythe's Margie's Haas 30 Joe's Famous Deli 31 Lauren’s Kitchen 31 Marko’s Pizza 32 Los Amigos 33 Mirabelle Restaurant 34 Montauk Seafood Grill 35 Red Maple Catering 36 Russell's 37 Sauce on the Creek 38 Vin48 HEREEATNOW

Famous

KIRBY COSMOS best BBQ in the Vail Valley, our BBQ hails

Finally

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MAGUSTOS Magustos is where you go for bar food! huge variety of appetizers and sides, scrumptious salads, specialty or build your own burgers and pizza, pasta, subs, sandwiches and wraps. Wide selection of beer and cocktails. Open late and offering delivery. Main Street in Minturn • (970) 827-5450 www.magustos.net

Minturn offers unique alternatives for casual dining.

from Asheville, NC and Greenville, SC. Sit back, relax, roll up your sleeves and enjoy. 474 Main Street in Minturn (970) www.kirbycosmos.com827-9027 BC BACKCOUNTRY WINGS AT THE COWBOY BAR “The High Country’s ONLY Wing spot!” Featuring 12 different flavors and 4 different heat levels! 455 Main Street in Minturn www.backcountrywings.com(970)763-5621 SUNRISE Sunrise Minturn serves specialty coffees and breakfast and lunch daily. Experience high quality food in an eco-friendly modern environment. Cocktails also available. 132 Main Street in Minturn (970) www.sunriseminturn.com827-5353 ROCKY MOUNTAIN TACO The World’s Most Best Tacos! Authentic Mexican cuisine made fresh from quality ingredients. 291 Main St. • (970) www.rockymountaintaco.com393-5187 THE MEXICAN BAR & GRILL Mexican, Tacos, Seafood, Tex-Mex Open for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner. 160 Railroad Ave. • (970) www.themexicanbg.com470-4309 VAIL MOUNTAIN COFFEE & TEA We offer an exceptional coffee & tea experience right inside the roastery. Enjoy 35 freshly roasted coffees, a full flight of espresso drinks, along with sweet and savory treats baked on-site. Now offering beer and wine. 23698 US Hwy 6&24 in Minturn (970) 827-4008 • www.vailcoffee.com Located in the Meadow Mountain Business Park ROASTERY CAFE www.minturn.org • @GoMinturn • #MakeIt2Minturn All restaurants are located within walking distance of one another, on Minturn’s historic Main Street. Just minutes from both Vail and Beaver Creek Resorts!

www.thaikitchenminturn.com445-7499

THE MINTURN SALOON Closed this summer for renovations. Re-opening this fall under new ownership with an elevated menu, an upgraded kitchen, and many other improvements. Main Street in Minturn (970) www.minturnsaloon.com827-5954

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BBQ The

STEAKHOUSE

THAI KITCHEN authentic Thai food in a ski town! appetizers, soups, noodle dishes, curry dishes and sautéed entrées. Leave room for dessert! Online ordering and take-out available Main St. in Minturn (970)

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MINTURN COUNTRY CLUB

The only thing missing is the Golf Course! for our extensive salad bar and grillyour-own surf and turf! A great location for large groups and families to get out of their seats and mingle over the grill. Main St. in Minturn (970) www.minturncountryclub.com827-4114

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Fresh

fresh and organic ingredients . unique cuisine that changes monthly . seasonal specialty cocktails shaded summer patio/heated winter patio . experienced and welcoming staff . live music and daily specials OPEN FOR LUNCH, DINNER AND BRUNCH SEASONALLY CHEF OWNED AND OPERATED 970-328-4696 FOR RESERVATIONS OR INQUIRIES ROAMATEAGLE.COM ROAMEAGLE ROAMEAGLECOLORADO eagle, co FRESH. Unique. SEASONAL.

T here’s nothing quite like spend ing a summer day hiking in Alps, stopping at a charming, rustic cabin for a bite to eat and per haps a pint of a crisp, cool lager while soaking up the views. But if Germa ny isn’t on your radar this summer, there’s another option for a European experience in Vail: Alpenrose. With its architectureBavarian-inspiredandhigh-altitude charm, Alpenrose brings the flavor and feel of a European getaway to Meadow Drive in the Vail Village. Secure a seat on the expansive deck or cozy up in a comfortable corner inside — there’s really not a bad seat in the house. And though the décor (think “chic family cabin” with bright, white walls and reclaimed wood from a farmhouse in Switzerland) is worth an “ooh” and “ahh,” the menu is what trulyThetransports.menuatAlpenrose features something for almost any situation: If you’re sharing, try the new rösti bällchen (an appetizer portion of the all-time favorite rösti stuffed with cheese); the Herzhaftes Käsefondue (a hearty cheese fondue for two) or carpaccio with tomato-garlic salsa and arugula. For more hearty appetites, the classic Schnitzel “Rockies & Roses” – a Bavarian pork schnitzel with spätzle, cream sauce and lingonberries—is always a crowd-pleaser. But Alpenrose is more than traditional fare – there are plenty of options for vegetarians and vegans and gluten-free options are available, too. Try the Gemuse curry or the Alpen gazpacho. Whether you’re soaking up the summer sun during lunch or dinner, a beverage might not go amiss. Schnaps are traditional and the zirbenschnaps (a traditional stone pine liquor) is an all-time favorite. More of a bier drinker? Alpenrose has a selection of traditional Bavarian and Austrian beer that will suit the pickiest palate; they also carry Austrian gin and vodka, perfect for a Lavender Tonic or a Mountain Cow Mule. Though it’s easy to satiate your appetite early, be sure to save room for dessert. Take a lap to the display case for Alpenrose’s homemade treats like Black Forest Cake; the Dampfnudel is another culinary classic that’ll evoke the best memories of visiting the alps — even if you’re never left the country. From pretzels and Weisswurst to veal goulash and gnocchi, dining at Alpenrose affords guests that most magical of experiences: the feeling of traveling across the world without dusting off your passport. • above German pretzel, cheese dip, Obazda dip and German bier. left Sommer melonen salat with melon, feta, cherry tomatoes and mint, served with white balsamic reduction.

VAIL

ALPENROSE 970.476.8899

PRICE $9-$38

by KATIE COAKLEY photos by JOSH THOMA

19vaildaily com

AMBIANCE

Refreshed rustic with a homey feel ••• SIGNATURE DISH Schnitzel Rockies and Roses — Bavarian pork schnitzel with spätzle and cream sauce

100 EAST MEADOW DRIVE #25 | VAIL |

T he Assembly in Eagle opened almost two years ago – right in the middle of COVID. However, this upscale, globally-inspired dining destination has weathered many storms to emerge as a preferred hotspot for Eagle and beyond.

One of the recent additions for sum mer is a seafood panzanella — a twist on the classic Italian panzanella salad that features lobster tail, steamed mussels and smoked salami. And if that description didn’t hook you, the sauce might: It lends a paella flavor to a new interpretation of an Italian classic. This is the beauty of The Assembly — they pull out a new coat for the previously naked emperor.

It’s rare to find a place that pairs the wines with the same attention as the kitchen does its ingredients but The Assembly has figured out the balance. From shared plates to entrees, daily “chips & dip” specials (yes, “Devils on Horseback” is a spectacular dip combination), The Assembly has firmly spliced themselves into the DNA of Eagle County. Go for a bite or go for a feast: The Assembly is a hybrid we can all support.

• top Seafood panzanella with lobster, mussels, sofrito, tomatoes and fennel. above Crispy duck wings with spiced chicharrons and tangy plum and garlic glaze page 52 Tutti Frutti dessert.

20 EAT summer 2022 EAGLE

Each dish is meticulously constructed, drawing from a variety of inspirations. However, that creativeness is not limited to one country…or continent. Another example: An Arctic char that has eclipsed the specials menu to a starring role on the entrée menu: Pan fried with a warm Israeli couscous, this Icelandic fish is presented with dried apricots that perfectly play with the sauce. Featuring aji amarillo paste — a bright yellow, citrusy flavor from Peru with just the right amount of heat — it packs a bit of heat but elevates this “white fish meets salmon” dish to an unforgettable level. If it takes three different continents to create this particular flavor/texture epiphany, we’re here for it. Head chef Brandon Utley is constantly looking for new inspiration and flavors with which to wow guests. Scouring various cookbooks and experimenting with new spices and ingredients, he’s looking to impress new guests and continually surprise those who have already discovered the appeal of The Assembly. However, every lily has the potential to be gilded. With a wine list that evolves as the menu does, there’s always something new to discover with potent potables with The Assembly. “Of course, we’re going to have Sauvi gnon Blanc on the wine list, but we found a couple of really beautiful Sancerres that we have on our bottle list that are going to be great for the summer,” Mackey promises. “We've got a bunch more rosés and this really beautiful, just really cool orange wine that has this grapefruity tone that is so, so refreshing; that'll be a fun one for summer.”

PRICE Sharing plates start at $11; entrées start at $28 by KATIE COAKLEY photos by KRISTIN ANDERSON

The Assembly has built its reputation on seasonal fare (the menu changes quarterly) with global inspiration. Fresh produce is a star and the availability of certain ingredients influences the menu as well.

“Our summer menu introduces a lot more seasonal produce: fresh, bright flavors,” explains co-owner Jaimie Mackey. “We’re getting close to tomato season and that kind of summer stuff, so that's definitely exciting. We also have a bit more seafood on the menu, which has been fun.”

••• AMBIANCE restaurantCommunity-focusedservingseasonal,globally-inspiredfood ••• SIGNATURE DISH Braised short rib THE ASSEMBLY 1143 CAPITOL ST #104A | THEASSEMBLYEAGLE.COMEAGLE|970.328.2828

Boardroom Deli is known for its substantial sandwiches which are available by calling ahead or walking in — the service here is really quite speedy. Savvy patrons have started utilizing Boardroom for meals further afield…or on the fields.

| BOARDROOMDELI.COM PRICE

EDWARDS

by KATIE COAKLEY photos by DOMINIQUE TAYLOR

meats and breads SIGNATURE DISH

So if you’re looking for a bit of east coast flavor in Edwards — or just want a super tasty, fast-casual option that won’t break the bank — head to the Boardroom Deli. Extra points if you’re from Maryland. •

••• AMBIANCE

T ucked into the Riverwalk in Edwards is one of the valley’s best-kept secrets for breakfast and lunch. Boardroom Market & Deli has been serving up hearty, housemade offerings since October 2019.

Chef Brad Trumpower is from Mary land; if you didn’t suss out that fact from perusing the menu at Boardroom, he’ll probably tell you a few times as you chat. But it’s useful knowledge: Trum power’s roots add flavor to his menu, from the Old Bay used in the shrimp salad to the classic lobster sandwich (served cold). He earned his chef title from working in kitchens in Ocean City and Baltimore but continued to sharpen his knives at Red Sky Ranch and Zach’s Cabin in Eagle County. Looking to take the local sandwich game to the next level, Trumpower opened Boardroom to serve made-to-order, fast-casual meals centered on meats cooked in-house, locally sourced greens and veggies and small-batch, made-daily soups.

$7-$11 breakfast

Keep an eye out for seasonal treats like a grilled peach salad or other specials that pop up on the menu. And though the Italian wedding soup is almost guaranteed to be served, the other two soup options will rotate depending on the availability of ingredients — Trumpower likes to patronize the local farmers’ markets — and the mood of the chef.

Lively East Coast-style deli with emphasis on fresh, house-made salads, soups with quality Riva Ridge, piled high with Italian cold cuts,

top left Blue Sky Reuben with slow-roasted pastrami, swiss cheese, house coleslaw and Russian dressing on hot-griddled rye. top right Huevos rancheros with fried eggs, refried beans, cotija, tomato sauce, avocado and pico de gallo on a corn tortilla. left A classic wedge salad topped with bacon, blue cheese, cherry tomatoes, chives and ranch dressing. 970.855.0065 $7-$16 lunch;

and sandwiches

veggies and oil and vinegar

“We do a ton of catering for the summertime,” Trumpower says. “The big events here…the lacrosse events, the soccer events on the Miller Ranch fields…we do a lot of sandwiches for them — big platters. They bring it for the whole team and it makes it super easy.” Not feeding an entire team? Trumpower says that they’re getting a lot of orders for individual sandwiches for outdoor excursions — hiking, fly fishing, rafting, biking: “grab your sandwiches to go, put 'em in your backpack and have 'em up on top of the mountain or on the side of the river.” They’re a great option for less strenuous excursions, too, like concerts at Ford Amphitheater. And while you may have stopped in for a Riva Ridge Italian (it’s the most popular pick for lunch) or a Blue Sky Reuben, you’re missing out if you haven’t made it in for breakfast. Boardroom is open at 7:30 a.m. and the breakfast menu, available until 11 a.m., has something for just about everyone, ranging from smoothies and granola bowls to breakfast burritos, biscuits and gravy and heuvos rancheros. Just like the lunch options, everything is made from scratch, utilizing local products when possible. On Sundays, happy hour lasts all day long, making it an easy decision to opt for a mimosa with freshsqueezed orange juice or Marylandstyle Bloody Mary with your French toast or breakfast sandwich.

BOARDROOM MARKET & DELI 280 MAIN ST, RIVERWALK, EDWARDS |

T here are few places in the Vail Valley that are as firmly en trenched in the locals’ psyche as Bob’s Place. Your first visit there is a rite of passage, whether you’re in town for a few days or a few decades. But, after one hearty breakfast, a refueling lunch after a day on the mountain or a latenight nosh session, it’s clear that Bob’s is a beacon for affordable comfort food. Perusing the menu at Bob’s Place is like gazing into a time capsule: It includes dishes from owner Bob Doyle’s 40 years of restaurant experience here in the valley: deli favorites from The Menu (opened in 1977 in Vail), Southwestern dishes from The Jackalope (opened in 1990) and classic pub grub from Bob’s Place, which first opened its doors in Avon in 1992. Ensconced in the Lodge at Avon at Avon Center since 2000, Bob’s Place is known for its family-friendly atmosphere, hearty portions of comfort food and an almost magical array of screens that allow fans to watch multiple games from almost anywhere in the bar.

••• AMBIANCE Warm and welcoming with a focus on sports ••• SIGNATURE DISH Wings BOB'S PLACE 100 WEST BEAVER CREEK BOULEVARD | THE LODGE AT AVON CENTER | AVON 970.845.8556 | BOBSPLACE.CO

22 EAT summer 2022 AVON

Head over for breakfast and indulge in substantial skillets and omelets or the popular breakfast burritos, tacos, huevos rancheros or tamales. One of Bob’s burgers, made from half a pound of certified Angus beef, is a favorite for lunch or dinner, or try the wings: take your pick from more than 15 different sauces. If you’re feeling parched, there’s an extensive draft beer list with plenty of Colorado craft favorites, and cocktails including 10 different mule iterations. For families looking for an afford able dinner or friends looking for a gathering place to watch the game, Bob’s delivers affordable comfort food in warm, welcoming atmosphere. You’ve not truly visited the Valley until you’ve stopped into Bob’s Place. • top Buffalo wings, artichoke hearts and a beer. above Chicken and steak tacos with rice and beans. left A Roll Tide cocktail paired with the Aussie Burger, which includes pineapple, a fried egg, Cana dian bacon, grilled onions, beets and sliced cheddar. Breakfast: $8.50-$12.50; Lunch and $6.50-$24dinner: by KATIE COAKLEY photos by KRISTIN ANDERSON

PRICE

DOMINIQUE TAYLOR

And about that patio… “Oh it’s the best patio in the valley,” he promises. “It’s got the most sun.”

For those so inclined, DECA + BOL has a terrific cocktail program.

top Grilled salmon and vegetables with tomato tapenade and scallion vinaigrette, served with a mezcal-based Oaxaca Fuego cocktail. above Confit duck bao buns with pickled carrots, radish and cucumber. left Ceviche, with shrimp, white fish, lime juice, red onion, cilantro and house-made torilla chips. page 14 Flatbread, charcuterie and ceviche. by

Executive Chef Christopher Lauro is the man behind the menu. It’s filled with vivid flavors and intuitive combi nations. His contemporary American fare is based on classical French technique and his own family food traditions — Italian-style all the way. “Well I love food,” says Chef Lauro. “I grew up in a resort town like this. If you weren’t fishing, you were working in a restaurant. I've worked in restaurants all my life." Lauro’s menu is romp around the globe: Mexican elotes, Hawaiian poke, European charcuterie. The confit bao buns are a standout, the succulent meat served with pickled carrots, radish and cucumber for maximum contrast. The dish hinges on the very classically prepared duck confit, which includes a 24-hour cure and low, slow cooking in duck fat. After the meat is picked off the bone, it’s dressed with a demi glace laced with chile-garlic sauce.

nless you travel with your custom bowling ball and shoes, it’s hard to get too serious when you’re eating in a bowling alley. But as with many things in the Vail Valley, DECA + BOL is not your average play-and-dine adventure. And in fact, though you can certainly order food and eat while bowling, it’s recommended that you dine at a table before or after your game — or skip the bowling altogether and dive right into the food and drinks that have long elevated this local hotspot. “We’re family-oriented, definitely family-driven,” says General Manager Brian Rhodes about the operation. “Our core staff is great; everyone is really educated but it’s not stuffy. It’s a fun atmosphere. We want people to come and have really good food in a good environment. It’s pretty timeless.”

23 DECA + BOL 141 E. MEADOW DR. SUITE 113 | VAIL 970.476.5300 | DECAVAILBOL.COM

Salads and sandwiches are quote popular, and Chef Lauro’s hands-down favorite is the fried eggplant sandwich, thanks to the flavors on the pan-fried eggplant. Entrees include grilled salmon, wagyu zabuton steak and chicken and waffles with a (what else?) Italian spin, thanks to the chicken cutlets.

James Hallmark developed it since the restaurant’s inception, and has quite a local following.

Piled into fresh, spongy buns that are steamed to order, it’s a multi-national creation with flavors that hit home. Flatbread pizzas predate Chef Lauro’s tenure in the kitchen, but he’s certainly made them his own. Introducing options such as lasagna flatbread — with house-made smoked ricotta and meat balls, no less — and pear-prosciutto, the options are a little taste of home.

The cocktail names alone give a good idea of the menu’s scope: Peachy Blinders, Oaxacan Fire, Drunk Punch Love. They put a spring in your step and, if it’s really your day, a strike in your game. •

As for Rhodes, he likes the wahoo and rock shrimp ceviche with fresh pops of citrus and chiles.

VAIL PRICE Small plates $12-$35 ••• AMBIANCE Family-friendly, energetic dining with upscale bowling alley in the back ••• SIGNATURE DISH Lasagna flatbread with house-made smoked ricotta and meatballs by WREN BOVA photos

“It is unlike any other chicken and waffles out there,” says the chef.

“I love the freshness of the ceviche, such a simple, great summertime dish,” he says. “It’s best eaten on the patio with a bottle of wine or bubbles.”

The restaurant opens at noon daily and serves their entire menu, food and drinks, including to-go, until 10 p.m., while the bar stays open until midnight.

Meant as a convivial space, the menu is rich in small bites and shareable appetizers such as the light and crispy calamari, the melt-y, ooze-y chorizo queso fundido and a Mexican street corn salad that that will leave your mouth tingling with flavor. Almost everything is made from scratch using fresh ingredients, including the chips, salsas and sauces. For summer, chef and co-owner Dimitri Souvorin has added some lighter fare, including tuna ceviche and the hamachi aguachile, a lime-cured yellowtail dish with red onion, Serrano chiles and avocado — both a testament not only to Mexico’s ample coastline but also to El Segundo’s sister restaurant, Montauk Seafood Grill in Lionshead. Though burrito bowls and fajitas can be found on the menu, it’s the imagi native taco selection that is the star of the show. “We really have fun with the taqueria theme and really try to explore any type of cuisine that we think has a place in a taco,” explains Souvorin, adding that he takes a lot of liberties with what he decides can go into a taco. There are some distinctly Mexican tacos like the huevos with chorizo potato hash, or the quesabirria with shredded beef and lamb, Oaxaca cheese and served with birria consommé for dipping. Then there are the interna tionally inspired tacos such as the Hot Korean with Korean-barbecued Wagyu beef and kimchi, a house favorite, and the distinctly Mediterranean Zorba the Greek taco with lamb kabob, tahini and tomato-cucumber relish. The tacos are neither heavy nor over-sauced and are small enough that you can easily sample two to three while still saving room for one of the delightful desserts such as the strawberries with cream. Though certainly family-friendly, part of El Segundo’s relaxed atmosphere can be attributed to the spacious and colorful bar that seats about 20 people but has standing room for many more — and keeps the restaurant buzzing (both literally and figuratively) day and night. Herradurra is the house tequila, and is put to good use in the famous house margarita, making them the largest buyer of that tequila in the state. They also offer one of the largest tequila selections in Colorado a well as a wide range of mezcals. These can all be enjoyed on their own, in a cocktail or sampled with others in a flight. Their craft cocktail list is creative and fun and, as with their food, uses fresh ingredients and housemade mixes wherever possible.

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A newly opened, high-energy restaurant and bar in Vail Village serving tacos, Mexican specialities and tequila cocktails SIGNATURE DISH Wild Gulf Snapper Veracruz Gulf red snapper with green olives, garlic, capers, onion and fresh oregano in a spicy tomato sauce

“You are never too late for lunch or too early for dinner,” quips Souvorin. And that extends to the drink menu, too. As longtime bartender Mike Hannigan likes to say, “El Segundo is where margaritas and friends are made.” • top Patio dining with a selection of tacos, Mexican Street corn salad and house-made chips, salsa and guacamole. above Carne Asarda burrito-style bowl with grilled angus beef flatiron, roasted sweet corn, arugula, spanish rice, cotija, roasted garlic aioli, pico de gallo. & TAYLOR

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PRICE Appetizers and Salads: $11-$18; Tacos: $6-$13; Entrées: $25-$46 AMBIANCE

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— broiled

photos by DOMINIQUE

24 EAT summer VAIL EL SEGUNDO 23 GORE CREEK DRIVE | VAIL | 970.763.5470 | ELSEGUNDOVAIL.COM E l Segundo is not your typical taqueria. Rather, this light-hearted, modern Mexican-style restaurant plays with its South of the Border theme. Combining traditional Mexican dishes with international flavors, they offer a surprising, fun menu in a relaxed, colorful atmosphere. Located in the middle of Vail Village, El Segundo has one of the best decks in town, overlooking Gore Creek, ideal for summer dining, drinks and daydreaming. On nice days — meaning most of the summer — the patio doors are open wide the length of the deck, sending fresh air and the sound of the creek throughout the restaurant.

top left The outdoor seating is a coveted spot in the summer months.

top right The Asian Brussels with shishito peppers and dragon sauce are served in a skillet. left The Fitz Fashioned offers a lively, bourbon-forward flavor. BOVA by

Golden Peak shines across the street, and the heart of Vail Village proper is a mere block away. Thanks to The Fitz’s smooth indoor-outdoor seating arrangements, guests can take it all in — preferably with a cocktail in hand and anticipation in the belly.

CHARLES TOWNSEND BESSENT PRICE Shareables start at $9 Sandwiches and salads start at $16 Entrees $22-$26 ••• AMBIANCE Lively and friendly with outdoor seating ••• SIGNATURE DISH Asian Brussels with shishito peppers and dragon sauce; The Fitz Burger with bacon jam, white cheddar and “famous Fitz sauce.” VAIL

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t’s impossible to talk about The Fitz without considering the location. You could not possibly find a better spot in the summer. Located in Manor Vail, Gore Creek creates the resort’s property line to the east and south — a quick walk across a covered bridge, and you’re in Ford Park, the gateway to the Amphitheater’s summer of shows.

The lively, fun atmosphere is familyfriendly, lending itself to an easy evening of revelry, shared bites and even the traditional app-entrée combination.

The creative menu hovers somewhere between gastropub and elevated bar bites: truffle tots, Basian duck wings, artichoke fondue. The Asian Brussels have had a cult-like following for years, with good reason. Pan seared hot, the veggies’ own sweetness intensifies, making it an excellent foil for shishito peppers and dragon sauce. Add some nuts for a savory crunch factor and it’s a winner. And, as is fitting, it’s large enough to share. All of The Fitz’s dishes start classic, and then get a little twist. It’s hard to beat the burger, thanks to the umami-rich bacon jam and “famous Fitz sauce” that elevate the classic sandwich. Don’t worry, both the sauce and the jam also come on the chicken burger variation, for those who want it all but prefer a more demure approach. Of course, there’s no better summer sandwich than a lobster roll stuffed with Maine lobster meat and, in a gourmet flourish, dressed with yuzu aioli. Prefer a meal that requires a fork? The poke bowl is another popular option, the sesame-flavored ahi tuna crowning a bowl of seasoned sushi rice, avocado, wonton crisps and seaweed salad. But really, no matter how delicious the food, the cocktails are just as important. They’ve always had a strong cocktail program at The Fitz. Houseinfused spirits, fresh herbal flavors and well-structured elixirs are the backbone of the list. And though the Golden Peak Margarita is a mainstay — and a tip of the hat to the loyal locals who continue to make The Fitz their go-to spot, summer or winter — take it up a notch this season with the Chaca ChacaEspolonMargarita.silver tequila is embellished with jalapeño and poblano-infused cantaloupe and fresh lime. ¡Salúd! Or nurse a Heartbreak Summer, with Wheatley vodka, passion fruit and a zippy jalapeño-blackberry syrup. And though a paloma is the perfect summer cocktail, The Fitz’s Smoky Paloma is a sexier version, Teremana Blanco tequila and Del Maguey Vida mezcal dancing in unison with grapefruit and soda. As the staff will tell you unabashedly, The Fitz is the perfect spot in which to soak up the summer mountain atmosphere and have some delicious cocktails and great bites. And later this year they’ll open Ridge and River, a more upscale dining experience that will complete the resort’s $7.5 million dollar renovation project. But for now, look no further than The Fitz — and its views, of course. •

THE FITZ MANOR VAIL LODGE | 595 EAST VAIL VALLEY DRIVE | VAIL 970.476.4959 | THEFITZVAIL.COM by WREN

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“We use a traditional recipe from Switzerland, with a blend of cheeses that we import,” George explains. Mixed with crisp white wine, garlic, lemon juice and a touch of Kirschwasser cherry brandy, it’s smooth and flavorful. In addition to the classic baguette cubes, the profusion of dipping options includes apples, cornichon.cocktailcherry-smokedbroccoli,ham,onionsandButtheoptional

upgrades take it over the top. The two-fondue/three-course meal includes salad, cheese fondue and a chocolate fondue dessert. But the three-fondue/four-course meal is the real showstopper. In addition to everything in the three-course option, there’s also steak fondue chinoise: Dip prime Black Angus steak and mushrooms in a warm bone broth as well as original sauces. Care to gild the lily? Add jumbo prawns or a lobster tail to the steak fondue chinoise.

PRICE Starting at $38 per adult and $24 per child ••• Your own home, without any fuss SIGNATURE EXPERIENCE 3-Fondue/4-Course Meal WREN BOVA

“I look at a fondue party as an ‘experience,’” explains George. “It’s not just dining. It’s a way to create memories with your friends and family. The whole nature of fondue is communal where people can share stories over a fondue pot.” And the cheese isn’t bad either. • top Cheese fondue with baguette cubes, apples, broccoli, cherry-smoked ham, cocktail onions and cornichon; steak fondue chinoise with prime Black Angus steak and mushrooms, bone broth, lobster tail and dipping sauces. above Chocolate fondue with a variety of dipping treats offers a sweet finish to the meal. left Derek George's cheese fondue is made with a blend of cheeses imported from Europe.

“So when I moved here to the mountains, working in the wine industry, I started inviting friends over for fondue parties,” he says. “They got bigger and bigger, when I finally realized I could create a business out of it.” And so he harnessed his entrepre neurial spirit and created Fondue at Home. Though always popular with visitors, especially families who had rented a house for a ski vacation, the past year-plus has seen an even split of visitors and locals.

AMBIANCE

photos by DOMINIQUE TAYLOR FONDUE AT HOME FONDUEATHOME.COM1.844.4FONDUE

All of the equipment, plus little details such as a cork trivet or serving tongs, are included. After the party is done, simply pack the crate up with all the plates and equipment, and it’s picked up and whisked away the following day. “People love it,” he says. “Honestly, they really do. That’s one of the best things about the business. People are just so happy to be having the experience.” From kids to grandparents, friends to bridal parties — there’s really no occasion that can’t accompany fondue.

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I f you think it’s cheesy you’re right. And that’s a good thing. Having a dinner from Fondue at Home is just about the easiest way to host a dinner party with all the cozy friendliness and none of the stress. They do all the work, and you have all the fun. With his gourmet fondue dinners delivered and set up in your home, Chef-Owner Derek George makes the experience both easy and delicious.

George grew up eating lots of fondue at home with his parents — they were fans. After leaving home, he ended up having a terrific wine career in his 20s.

“The fondue chef comes in and takes about 30 to 40 minutes to get the fondue party set up,” says George. “After it’s all set up, he gives instructions and then leaves you to it.”

26 EAT summer 2022 LARGEAT

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GRILL ON THE GORE VAIL GOLF & NORDIC CLUBHOUSE | 1775 SUNBURST DRIVE | VAIL 970.477.5277 | GRILLONTHEGORE.COM PRICE $10-$24 ••• AMBIANCE Creative American comfort food, stunning views ••• SIGNATURE EXPERIENCE House-smoked beef cheesesteak and mahi fish tacos by KIMBERLY NICOLETTI photos by DOMINIQUE TAYLOR VAIL

Classic-, Mexican- and Coloradoinspired mules and wines by the glass round out the beverage menu.

Grill on the Gore features eight Colorado draft beers, from Mama’s Little Yella Pils to your Favorite Blonde Ale. And signature cocktails like the Blue Bird, with vodka, fresh lemonade, blueberries and mint or the Garden Paloma, with tequila, grapefruit juice, basil and fresh lime juice, make the long, inviting bar a great place to meet up with friends and kick back.

“It’s a great opportunity for guests to meet us, see what we love and how we care,” he says.

Along with the great food and drinks, servers add to the comfortable, casual ambiance of the restaurant. In fact, Desseauve, who is there almost daily, loves to chat with guests.

And, one of the benefits of Grill on the Gore’s menu is it doesn’t jack up the prices for dinner. So, whether you want a bite before hitting the course or want a full meal after a late round, premium sandwiches, fish tacos, paninis and burgers remain reasonably priced — and still made fresh to order, from 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Grill on the Gore provides free parking and is located on the bus route, so it’s easy to dine there or take in the views while sipping a cocktail, whether you plan to golf or not.

left The Gore Burger topped with cheese, onions, tomatoes and lettuce, served with french fries. page 13

Outside the restaurant, chefs pick fresh tomatoes and other vegetables from their garden for salads and sandwiches, as well as herbs and fruit for both cuisine and cocktails.

Y ou don’t have to be a golfer to enjoy the freshly made sandwiches, salads or cocktails at Grill on the Gore, and you certainly don’t need to know how to swing a club to soak in the best deck view of the Gore Range in all of Vail Valley. Grill on the Gore, located in the Vail Golf & Nordic Clubhouse, opens up to a picture-perfect view of the Gore Range’s rocky peaks, enveloped by the light greenery of aspen groves and darker evergreens. The restaurant blends the best of mountain dining, with unforgettable views, made-fromscratch cuisine and specialty cocktails and local brews. Using locally sourced ingredients — from gelato crafted in Eagle to beef from River Bear American Meats — executive chef John Zavoral and his team make all of their salads, sandwiches and hand-crafted cocktails fresh to order. “We don’t buy already made products. We make almost all of it here,” says Chris Desseauve, food and beverage general manager. “We take the time to make it from scratch.” Their creative twist on American comfort food stands out. You’ll find basil aioli, brie and apples on your Range Chicken sandwich, served on a soft and tasty ciabatta roll. Smoked ribeye cheesesteaks are smothered in queso, sauteed onions, peppers and mushrooms. Fish tacos are a locals’ favorite, made with grilled mahi-mahi, chipotle aioli, a zingy citrus slaw, avocado and pico de gallo. And if there’s lobster to be had, a lobster roll sandwich is a decadent option.

• above Lobster roll with lightly dressed fresh lobster meat on a grilled bun, served with french fries.

The Clubhouse Salad with fresh greens, strawberries, candied pecans, avocado, goat cheese and a vinaigrette.

“Our specialty cocktails are crafted to be refreshing and represent Vail and the golf course in the summertime, but they’re a little twist on your traditional cocktail,” Desseauve says.

Pretzel-crusted Sakura Duroc pork chop with honey-dijon cream sauce, grit cake and charred broccolini by

28 EAT summer 2022 CREEKBEAVER GROUSE MOUNTAIN GRILL 141 SCOTT HILL ROAD | THE PINES LODGE | BEAVER CREEK | 970.949.0600 | GROUSEMOUNTAINGRILL.COM G rouse Mountain Grill is a multi-generational restaurant — not just within the staff, but more importantly in the dining room. Kids who vacationed with their families decades ago now return with their own children. They look out the window to the views they’ve observed for 25 years — with a few more houses tucked into the mountainside — and then smile at the remembered favorites that still hold a place on the menu. Owner Dan Schoenfelder explains: “They’ll look at the menu and say, ‘Ahhhh, you still have the walleye!’” The Ritz cracker-crusted pan-fried fish has long been a favorite, as has the pork chop coated with pretzel crumbs, served with honey-dijon cream sauce, a grit cake and charred broccolini. It’s the sort of food you’re not usually “allowed” to eat in a fine dining restaurant, which has always been part of Grouse Mountain Grill’s charm. "We are fine dining but take a warmer, friendlier approach," Schoenfelder says. “There’s nothing bad about fine dining, but some of it is too stuffy. We take this warmer approach to it. And we want to make sure when the guests leave that they feel like they’ve been among friends, in a warm atmosphere, and they got their money’s worth.” From the comfortable chairs to the linens on the table — and the occasional strains of live acoustic music coming from the sleek bar — the restaurant is designed to put you at ease. Sit, relax and enjoy a night out. Start with a one of Nick Kierstead’s elixirs. The Grouse spirits and cocktail manager likes to give classic cocktails a modern twist. He’s also brought in some fun and interesting whiskeys from around the world. Along with a cocktail, try an appetizer or two; they are designed to leave you wanting more.

••• AMBIANCE New American fine dining with classic mountain ambiance ••• SIGNATURE DISH

by WREN BOVA photos

DOMINIQUE TAYLOR

“Our perception here is that we can elevate our food — which is already fantastic — with a beautiful pairing,” he Andsays.he’s certainly correct on all counts. • above Beef short rib lettuce wraps with pickled jalapeños, radishes and cilantro. left Hawaiian kampachi crudo with orange and lime supremes and watermelon radish.

Appetizers

The kampachi crudo is the epitome of summertime noshing: colorful, clean and cool. Served with watermelon radish and citrus supremes, it’s the sort of guiltless dish you can feel good about eating. “I love that kampachi because it’s so buttery,” says Schoenfelder. “It’s a little firm, but that whole buttery flavor is so nice and so good. You have the different acids from the lime and orange, along with the olive oil — it all works together really well.” Or go for another favorite, the lettuce wraps. Another menu staple, they’ve experienced a bit of a makeover. The trio of wraps looks almost demure, despite the decadent shredded beef short rib that crowns each leaf of butter lettuce. Topped with pickled jalapeños, radish, and jalapeño crema, the short ribs are coffeebrined to give them a little extra oomph.

Moving on to the entrees, in addition to the aforementioned walleye and pork chop, other classics include a roasted elk loin and New York strip, hearty dishes served with vegetables and a starch. But seafood is a perennial favorite at Grouse. Summer’s seasonal halibut with creamed corn, or the more local Colorado striped bass with sugar snap peas and morels, are excellent choices. And definitely take advantage of the prowess of Andrew Weakly, the wine director. He’s put together a list that covers classic powerhouses, but also has made room for biodynamic and organic wines, a particular passion for him. “We are having a lot of fun with our wine program,” he says. “The pursuit is very much to bring all the corners of the globe here.” He’s been exploring all sorts of things, such as a Bordeaux blend he just brought in from…wait for it… Lebanon. And listening to him talk, his enthusiasm is as contagious as it is poetic, which is exactly the sort of friendly expertise you hope to find.

PRICE start at $12; entrées start at $42

by KATIE COAKLEY by BCV 970.476.4444

PRICE Apps & Entreesstartshareablesat$15$32-$64 yet homey with mountain views fresh approach to the cuisine of the Alps with a Colorado twist

••• CULINARYSIGNATURESTYLE A

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MARGIE’S HAAS AT THE HYTHE 715 WEST LIONSHEAD CIRCLE, VAIL

T he Hythe, which opened in November 2021, is the newest reason to visit Lionshead Village. Completely remodeled and reimagined, the hotel epitomizes mountain chic from décor to Guestsdining.willfind Margie’s Haas by meandering up the open staircase and through Revel Lounge. This airy room, named for Margie Haas, a home cook who welcomed soldiers from the 10th Mountain Division into her home in South Tyrol during the war, features an elegant yet homey feel with expansive windows showcasing stellar mountain views. These views are the perfect backdrop to the innovative menu which features a fresh interpretation of Alpine cuisine, infused with Colorado ingredients.Startwith a cocktail. The alchemists behind the bar change the menu seasonally, incorporating fresh fruit and surprising combinations. Love tequila? Try the tequila old-fashioned. Want something light and refreshing? The watermelon cooler will chill you down. Those feeling adventurous should try the Antlers — a concoction of yellow chartreuse, mezcal and magic that’ll set the mood in a sip. Research suggests that perception hinges on sight, first; your tastebuds register second. At Margie’s Haas, Executive Chef Patrick Dahm and Chef de Cuisine Israel Delgado have taken that advice to heart: Each dish is a riot of color and texture. Edible flowers decorate many of the dishes on the new summer menu — they bloom from the gazpacho, wreath the panzanella salad, punctuate the beef tartare and nestle with the sorbet. As a result, these dishes are almost too pretty to eat… almost.Eyes satiated, the tastebuds hold court. Each dish is elegantly layered with flavors and textures, introducing new takes on classic ideas. Start with the black cherry gazpacho — tart and smooth, this velvety soup is accented with crunchy, savory black truffle granola and pistachio yogurt. Licking the bowl might perhaps be undignified yet warranted. Move on to the smoked watermelon panzanella burrata, a bright, fresh take on the classic Italian version that shines due to the depth of the smoked watermelon and the tang of the sorrel-basil vinaigrette. It’s burrata, belissima Each dish builds the anticipation — yes, the name might sound familiar but how will it be elevated, updated, newly created? The beef tartare, long a classic dish, has been reimaged as Chef Delgado’s “mountain ceviche” — Delgado, who was born in Peru, said it’s his version of the dish with a Colorado flair. Finely chopped, the dry-aged beef is accompanied by root chips and pickled mustard seeds but it’s the black garlic vinaigrette and mountain cress gremolata that take this translation from enjoyable to extraordinary.Thehitsjust keep on coming. The dry-aged New York steak will satisfy any carnivores at the table; perfectly cooked, the decadence of the steak is tempered with the summer asparagus and pepper reduction. However, vegetarians and omnivores alike will enjoy the creative entrees offered, like the roasted heirloom carrots — the crispy carrots look like confetti, previewing the sweet and crunchy party that’s to come. And the smoked cauliflower steak? It’s another favorite that just might change your mind on what constitutes steak. From shareable starters to “maybe one more bite mains,” Margie’s Haas provides must-not-miss meals in Lionshead. Dedicate an evening: This is an experience to be savored. • above Pan-seared Pacific black cod with citrusfennel emulsion, fava, chanterelle mushrooms, roasted heirloom carrots and parsnip puree. below The cocktail list is both creative and thoughtful at Margie's Haas.

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••• AMBIANCE Elegant

| THEHYTHEVAIL.COM

30 EAT summer 2022 Y ou know a deli is excellent when it has staying power in a worldclass resort town. And Joe’s Famous Deli has proved its worth; for more than 20 years, it has earned a reputation as the go-to deli for quality and service in Vail. Located on Bridge Street, Joe’s Famous Deli does things the oldfashioned deli way: Stop in on your way to hike or bike the mountain, chat with the owner if you’d like, and enjoy some of the best hot and cold sandwiches in the valley. As a local hang out, the vibe is friendly and lively. Whether you want to run in quickly for an off-the-bone ham and cheese sandwich to throw in your backpack or whether you prefer to linger over a Damici’s Hot Italian on focaccia bread or savor the roasted chicken breast on a French baguette with avocado, feta, red onion, cabbage and rosemary spread in the lively deli, you’ll be welcomed with a friendly smile. From turkey sandwiches with warm mushroom stuffing and cranberry sauce to veggie and egg salad varieties, Joe has you covered. Or, you can build your own, starting with anything from a baguette, bagel, tortilla, deli rye, gluten-free and more, add tangy, sweet or savory spreads, pile on the veggies, meats and cheeses and add the tasty extras, like avocado, bacon, fresh mozzarella, or basil or sun dried tomato pesto. Soups and salads are made fresh daily; soups of the day rotate regularly, but you’ll always find crispy chefs, Greek and Caesar salads. Though breakfast only goes until 11:30 a.m., the fried egg sandwich is served all day. Either way, you can fuel up to tackle the mountain with the meatless Portabella, a Belgian waffle egg sandwich, smoked Norwegian salmon with cream cheese, red onion, capers, lettuce and tomato on your choice of bagel, your choice of burritos, waffles or granola (of course, being a deli and all, the granola is served with cream cheese and honey, on your favorite bagel).

Joe’s Famous Deli is a terrific place to get your caffeine fix. Offerings include Café Snickers, espresso, latte, cappuccino and even hot apple cider and hot chocolate (after all, it does get cool in the evenings and it can be brisk in the early morning) to chai tea or an eye opener shake (double shot of espresso with homemade vanilla ice cream and Speakingmilk).ofice cream, you can’t skip out when it comes to dessert. The deli rotates through about 40 flavors. On any given day, it offers roughly two dozen — all made fresh on site. From fruit-based ice cream like raspberry and guava to birthday cake and chocolate classics, variety is the spice of life. In fact, you’ll even find some unusual flavors, like horseradish or avocado ice cream.

JOE’S FAMOUS DELI 288 BRIDGE STREET | VAIL 970.479.7580 | JOESFAMOUSDELI.COM PRICE Breakfast: Starts at $9 Sandwiches: $14 ••• AMBIANCE Classic deli focusing on quality and service ••• SIGNATURE DISH Joe’s (Famous) Philly, Rosemary Chicken, homemade ice cream by KIMBERLY NICOLETTI photos by DOMINIQUE TAYLOR VAIL

“Our customer base up here demands high quality,” says owner Joe Joyce. “We buy the best ingredients and serve them the best way we can.” above & on the cover

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On her honey moon in Vail, this Austin resident holds a triple dip cone with black raspberry ice cream, mango sorbet and cotton candy ice cream. left Ham, swiss and veggies on a baguette.

“It is all made fresh by me every day.” Whether she’s catering or preparing daily grab n’ go meals, one of her specialties includes creating tasty cuisine around dietary restrictions. You’ll find various gluten-free, vegan and dairy-free items, and if you have a special need, just tell her. She happily accommodates special requests or larger portions.

by KIMBERLY NICOLETTI photo by BRENT BINGHAM PRICE

31 EDWARDS MARKO’S PIZZA 57 EDWARDS ACCESS ROAD #7 | EDWARDS 970.926.7003 | MARKOSPIZZA.COM L ocated in the same spot for 28 years, Marko’s Pizza is an Edwards mainstay. And according to Mark Esteppe, owner and operator, that’s no “It’saccident.thebest pizza in this town,” he says definitively. “Best crust, best staff. Members of our kitchen staff have been here 20 years, 11 years, 8 years. We keep it in the family.” He’s got a point with the crust — just chewy enough and nicely browned on the bottom. It makes a great foil for the inventive pizzas. The Moontime Pie is named for the owner of Moontime Cyclery, who always ordered a basic margherita jazzed up with feta and sausage in addition to the classic tomato and basil. The Sweet Border includes pepperoni, pineapple, jalapeño, cilantro and mozzarella — some like to sub out the classic sauce for barbecue. Pizza isn’t the only offering. Salads, calzones, baked subs and pastas round out the menu. From spicy to creamy, zippy to comforting, the Marko’s menu is designed to be a mix-and-match heaven. “It’s really not just the food, it’s the atmosphere, the welcoming invitation that we’re all a family,” Esteppe says.

And a lot of that vibe comes from Esteppe, who might as easily be working the register or sitting at the bar himself, swapping stories in between getting up to deliver pizzas, pour drinks and check in on the various tables. He recently redid the patio area, so there’s more seating under Colorado’s blue bird sky — best enjoyed with a cocktail in hand, such as the Markopalooza Paloma or the Marko on the Beach. This summer vegan cheese and vegan pizza hit the menu, which already has gluten-free options.

Though they’ve expanded some things, Marko’s hasn’t changed the basic formula: fresh ingredients, dough made daily, house-made sauces and dressings and plenty of libations. It’s a winning combination.

••• SIGNATURE DISH Pizza and pasta by DOMINIQUE TAYLOR

It’s also a great stop before heading for an outdoor excursion or concert.

McElroy’s Southern comfort-style food includes two-person entrees, soups, sides, salads and desserts. Though everything comes a la carte, each item complements others; they’re a perfect way to create a lavish meal at home, or just enjoy a relatively quick and easy bite. She uses only fresh, seasonal ingredients for her menu items, which change“Nothingdaily.comes pre-made,” she says.

“We are a boutique business, so there are only usually two people working at a time. Anything can be customized, but don’t expect a quick turnaround for short-notice orders,” she says, adding that for catered parties, she needs at least two days advanced notice — more on holidays or for larger orders.

••• AMBIANCE Local, family-style pizzeria

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KITCHEN 275 MAIN STREET, C106 | RIVERWALK | EDWARDS 970.446.6917 | LAURENSKITCHENEDWARDS.COM

PRICE Starters: $4.99 and up Pasta: $12.99 and up Pizza $9.99 and up

above Sweet Border pizza with barbecue sauce, pepperoni, pineapple, jalapeño, cilantro, mozzarella and the Stawberry Mark-o-Rita.

Lauren’s Kitchen makes fresh, quality cuisine affordable and easily accessible to everyone. While chef-owner Lauren McElroy provides full-service catering for any type of gathering, you don’t have to throw a party for high quality, healthy meals; her affordable grab n’ go meals at her storefront in Edwards Riverwalk can be heated up to go or to enjoy on the patio outside of Lauren’s Kitchen, or you can take it home to warm up later.

Growing up with Southern grandmothers, McElroy loves putting a healthy twist on comfort and Southern food — often with a little Italian influence.Inaddition to catering and readymade meals, Lauren’s Kitchen features a retail area, with products like glass ware, Colorado-made food, hostess gifts, everything you need for DIY cheeseboards, and unique gift baskets.

Recycling program: Save 5% on your next purchase by returning your cleaned plastic container. above Catering options include salads, finger-foods and traditional entrees.

Two-serving entrees start at $12.25 Soups start at $6.25 Sides start at $4.85 ••• Hours: Monday through Friday 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Saturdays Noon-5 p.m.; Closed Sundays Recycling program for entrée and side containers: bring back clean for 5% off next purchase

“You wouldn’t even know it’s vegan,” exclaims the die-hard pizza lover.

LAUREN’S

32 EAT summer 2022 VAIL

Six months ago, Drew Riley decided he wanted to have the best margarita in town. Riley operates the restaurant, after a childhood spent growing up between Los Amigos, Russell’s down the street and Vail’s big backyard — it’s a family business. A mechanical engineer with a passion for making systems as efficient and intuitive as possible, he turned his analytical mind to the problem: How do you make the best margarita in Vail? What do people want? He decided to create an experiment and gather data. “I need our customers to tell me what they really like. That should drive everything we do,” he says emphatically.

As it should be. Being part of the conversation about what’s tasty, what’s interesting — it’s invigorating. But once Riley is confident they’ve discovered the best of the best, he’s got a plan. “We’re going to take our best margarita recipe, the one that shows what Los Amigos is, and then we’re going to can it,” he says. “We’re going to have a cooler by the door, so people can take a four-pack to go, and keep the apres party going in their room.” All thanks to science. ¡Salúd! • above From left, Mi Amigo with green chile repasado, pineapple, house sour mix and black lava salt, Bernies with Dobel Maestro tequila, blackberry puree, house sour mixand black lava salt and Dragons Teeth with Poblano, serano and jalapeno, blanco tqequila, hourse sour mix and tajin rim.

by WREN BOVA by DOMINIQUE TAYLOR

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he only thing better than a margarita is two margaritas. And after three, well, the world can be a pretty friendly place.

Los Amigos, a taqueria and bar, has long had one of the most coveted spots in Vail Village, sitting at the top of Bridge Street with a slope-side deck in full view of Pepi’s Face. In fact, the location is so good it could carry the show. But it doesn’t have to.

So while he uses words like “da ta-driven,” what you should hear is “free margarita tastings.” Because that’s what the experiment is. Periodically through out the season, Riley and company will host margarita tastings, offering a trio of one-ounce pours in exchange for honest feedback, lively conversation and other ideas. He’s not interested in his own preconceived notions of what he thinks people want; he much prefers to discover what they actually do.

LOS AMIGOS 400 BRIDGE STREET | VAIL | 970.476.5847 | LOSAMIGOSVAIL.COM PRICE A la carte street tacos start at $5; apps and entrées from $4.50 - $19.75 ••• AMBIANCE Energetic bar and taqueria in the heart of Vail Village ••• SIGNATURE DISH Street tacos; Mi Amigo margarita

Currently, the Mi Amigo marg is the headlining favorite. “It’s got hints of green chile in it,” he says. “It’s so authentic to Colorado and to Los Amigos. It’s really well rounded. It’s not spicy, but you get the chiles, the pineapple and its own special blend of sourThemix.”margarita menu is already pretty inventive, so it should be a fun summer at Los Amigos. There are concoctions based on mezcal, others on various fruits. There’s even the Black Diamond — limit two per person, mind you.

“The ones we’ve had so far, people have been really receptive,” Riley says. “It’s just a lot of fun.”

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33vaildaily com CREEKBEAVER

• top Honey-roasted peach with chantilly cream, almond frangipane, honey-cardamom crumble and mango coulis. above The patio looks out onto Beaver Creek. left Sweet potato gnocchi with vichyssoise "ratatouille" and carrot-ginger foam. HIMELFARB by

MIRABELLE 55 VILLAGE ROAD | BEAVER CREEK | 970.949.7728 | MIRABELLE1.COM PRICE Prix fixe four-course dinner, $90 or $125 with wine pairings ••• AMBIANCE Belgian American in a quaint and sophisticated historic farmhouse setting ••• SIGNATURE DISHES Dover sole Meuniere, Colorado rack of lamb, elk tenderloin by BRENDA

I f it were located somewhere on the Eastern shoreline, Mirabelle Restaurant would probably be thought of as a cabin by the sea. It’s setting however, in Beaver Creek, is surrounded by magnificent centuriesold trees making it, instead, a cozy, magical cabin in the woods. As you enter the restaurant you at once relax. The atmosphere speaks charm, sophistication and is extremely welcoming — the dining area a combi nation of elegant and casual. And if you dine on the outdoor patio, you’ll be greet ed with nature at its best — a bubbling creek, the chatter of rustling leaves. For over 30 years, Belgian Master Chef Daniel Joly has cleverly created dishes, beautifully presented with just a touch of something — whether it be an herb, a splash of wine or a broth to enhance the taste. Each dish doing a graceful dance in the mouth which can be matched with a fine wine from Mirabelle’s extensive list. “I look at the menu that I did the year before so I can see when, last year, a vegetable ripened,” explains Joly. “So, for instance, I can see when the peaches or lemongrass became available. I get a lot of magazines from Europe. I might see last year’s July issue that can put my head in a creative mode. But really, I work on the menu all the time. Inspiration might come from looking around a grocery store and I might see, say, bok choy and I think ‘Wow, I haven’t used that in a long time.’ You don’t sit down and just plan a menu. Just like a writer, you don’t know where a piece is going to go. You must get something from here and there to write the story.” And Joly “writes” well! In addition to “Le Menu Gourmand” the prix fixe menu, which changes almost every four weeks, Joly has added items that embrace a myriad of tastes, beginning with a salad of Colorado goat cheese cream, hummus, peas, and apricot, He’s has also taken “poetic” license with an addition of the mango citrus barbecued Southernstyle pork belly and crab cake appetizer. Vegetarians will delight in the twice baked sweet potato gnocchi, the yellow grilled corn souffle or, perhaps, the summer black truffle-infused vegetarian risotto. And all will embrace the restau rant’s signature Dover sole meuniere, pan sauteed Skuna Bay salmon filet or the roasted duck breast, to name a few. The menu always embraces a scatter ing of new inventions. And the pastries capture the true delicacy of French cuisine: always creative, always decadent.

“I believe we have a unique platform. We just try to make it better. We have people who have been coming here for years, perhaps once a year, and always want the same thing — the rack of lamb or the Dover sole. “We have to keep a balance.”

DOMINIQUE TAYLOR

“I believe the success of Mirabelle is that we never stay still,” says Joly. “Yes, we might be in an old ranch house. Yes, we’re traditional. But not when it comes to our However,menu.”Joly has put a bit of tradition aside when it comes to the restaurant’s interior. For instance, new fine wood tables have replaced those that required a tablecloth. “When we thought of the people in California who have an issue with water, we felt we could do our part,” he explains. “We always want to improve. What can we do better? What can we do to be appropriate in the time we are living?

34 EAT summer 2022 SEAFOODMONTAUK GRILL 549 E LIONSHEAD CIRCLE | LIONSHEAD 970.476.2601 | MONTAUKVAIL.COM VAIL I

f fresh seafood doesn’t come to mind as a Vail dining option, then you’re missing the boat. For decades, Montauk Seafood Grill in Lionshead has delighted fish-loving locals and visitors. The restaurant’s lively atmosphere, great service, mindful seafood sourcing and innovative culinary design all unite as an anchor of quality for every dining experience. Accents of nautical aesthetic flow throughout the space, remodeled in 2017 under the new ownership of local restaurateur Cameron Douglas. Darker wood panels were white washed to brighten up the dining room, with fun sea-inspired additions like overhead wire light fixtures in the shape of jellyfish.

“The raw bar selection is really something we expanded this year and we’re definitely not going back on that,” shares executive chef Dimitri Souvorin. “It’s just such a nice way to start your meal — if nothing else, come in and have a glass of Champagne or a martini and some oysters. It sets you up for the perfect dinner at Montauk.”

by KIM FULLER photos by DOMINIQUE

Savory and delicious dishes like Herb Crusted Alaskan Halibut with buttermilk whipped potatoes are crafted from chef Souvorin’s talents, yet he’s adamant that anybody who comes into this seafood grill should be able to experience fish just the way they desire. “Every protein that we bring into this restaurant, we offer simply grilled,” says Souvorin. “So every single thing that we sell here you can get just grilled with a touch of oil, salt and pepper. This naked style really showcases the fish on its own and lets it speak for itself. As a seafood restaurant it feels like a responsibility to provide healthful, light, refreshing food that you’re not going to get everywhere around town.” Many “land” options are available as well, including Souvorin’s deconstructed Beef Wellington highlighting puff pastry and Black Angus filet mignon. Order sides to your liking and create your own “surf and turf” as desired with special additions like a four-ounce lobster tail or Alaskan king crab legs. Dessert calls for the house favorite: Sand Pie. This combination of whipped chocolate chip ice cream, graham cracker crust, warm caramel, chocolate sauce and toasted almonds is everything you need to find your footing after catching great waves at Montauk. • above The raw bar tower with delicacies like grilled lobster tails and fresh oysters pairs perfectly with a nice bottle of champagne. left Seared ahi tuna, fresh vegetable and rock shrimp stir-fry, tamarind-ginger vinaigrette,sushi rice cake, pickled ginger and wasabi.

The summer season means lighter options on Souvorin’s menu, including more cold preparations and some really great salads. The Summer Gazpacho with Prawns is a chilled cucumber soup that truly celebrates the season. The dish is served with vine-ripe tomato, fresh herbs, sweet corn, white prawns and finished with the spice of serrano. For a salad, Baby Greens with Alaskan Crab reels in Asian flare with crispy wontons, fresh organic and cucumber, toasted cashews, citrus ponzu and white miso aioli. You’ll see a worldly selection of wine on the by-the-glass list, and depending on how you’ve mapped out the course of your entrée it’s hard to go wrong with a pour of the Albariño.

TAYLOR PRICE Starters and Raw Bar starting at $17; Entrées: $41 - $84 ••• AMBIANCE Seafood grill mountain-modernmeetsaesthetic ••• SIGNATURE DISH AlaskanHerb-crustedhalibut

Start with a Filthy Martini or Coconut Lavender Lemonade to quench your summer thirst, paired with any combination from Montauk’s impressive raw bar menu. Mix and match from ocean delicacies like Alaskan king crab legs, Maine lobster tail, oysters and jumbo white prawns —or just order The Tower to try it all.

Also, the process itself feeds him.

“We do everything from large parties to dinner for two,” Harrison says. “We just did a school fundraiser with 500 guests, and a couple who wanted to redo their wedding menu on their one-year anniversary. We really do it all.” Though they remain dedicated to being able to adapt to any location, they are also expanding into a couple of dedicated locations. A new event space is being built at Copper Bar Ranch, a working ranch in Edwards, replete with Highland cattle, large gardens and stunning views. Red Maple’s aesthetic dovetails nicely with the ranch’s, and they’ll be the exclusive caterers for the new space. “It’s going to be amazing,” says Harrison enthusiastically. “They’ve already got the infrastructure for hosting parties, but they’re adding to it. It’s a working farm and their intent is to keep it as a working farm. But this will add so much more.” And down the road in Gypsum, the Rod and Gun Club is branching into some more upscale events. For those special times, Red Maple Catering will be “Cookingthere. to me is the greatest creative outlet there is,” he says. “It is both how I can express my creative side, and show my passion for ingredients at the same time.” So how does he keep it fresh?

• pictured Jason Harrison and Red Maple Catering are able to deliver five-star service anywhere — even in a field with hay bales as tables. by BOVA by BRENT BINGHAM

“I like the challenge,” he says. “I love it when somebody calls and says, ‘I really like this particular dish, but nobody else can do it. Can you?’” And so far, Red Maple Catering always can.

S ome chefs work with produce grown in the field; others just go ahead and serve the meal there. Or in a meadow, on a mountaintop, at a home, a cabin — you get the picture. Jason Harrison is that kind of chef. After a career spent in the kitchens of luxury hotels both near and far, sometimes serving upwards of 4,500 for a single event, Harrison opened Red Maple Catering in Vail. Chef Harrison is a talented guy, with the ability to pivot from whimsy to comfort to edgy to classic on a plate, all perfectly executed. But what’s made Red Maple so successful these years — and prompted expansions into both Park City, UT and Dallas, TX — is his quick problem-solving abilities and attention to detail. He can figure out what to do when 2,000 lobsters don’t show up on schedule, or the pristine dining spot has no electricity. Or how to feed a vegan who wasn’t expected at a decidedly non-vegan-friendly meal. (The last challenge was handily dealt with, as the event was at Copper Bar Ranch. Chef Harrison just wandered into the garden, picked a few things, prepared them and voila — dinner was served, for everybody no less.)

LARGEAT RED MAPLE CATERING LOCATED WHEREVER YOU’D LIKE 970.401.1769 | REDMAPLECATERING.COM

A Red Maple event is always perfectly executed. Though they’ve carved out a reputation for being able to bring five-star service anywhere, there is no particular type of party that is more popular than another.

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“I stay inspired by talking to, working with and reading about food every day,” he says. “Ninety percent of my friends are chefs and some are within the best restaurants and hotels in the world. Keeping up with emerging dining trends is not easy, but with a strong network — and lots of food-focused travel —we keep pushing the boundaries.”

WREN

PRICE Varies ••• AMBIANCE At your discretion SIGNATURE DISH What would you like?

35vaildaily com

The tuna sashimi appetizer is a menu mainstay, offering delicately seasoned sushi-grade ahi, barely seared and served with a crunch of marinated cabbage, ginger and wasabi. The bacon-wrapped scallops are another great option.

by WREN BOVA photos by

MENU MAINSTAYS In fact, the only thing that hasn’t changed is the menu, as per usual at the Bridge Street steak and seafood hotspot. “You can save some space in your story and just say the food hasn’t changed. That’s kind of the point. That’s why we are who we are.” Riley’s mantra is consistency. And though he’s lucky to be surrounded by employees who’ve worked there for 10, 15 and even 20 years, nobody knows Russell’s quite like he does.

“Our staples are always going to be here,” he promises. “The menu isn’t going to change a whole lot. That’s what brings people into Russell’s — they want the same thing every time they come back. They can feel like a local, even if they’re only visiting one week out of a year. Our manager recognizes them year after year. That level of hospitality really sets Vail apart from the rest of the country.”

Some of the adjustments seem minimal, like moving the bar out a mere 8 inches. But that 8 inches opens up previous “dead space,” and now the bar has room for two or three more seats, a place to put draft beer and new cooler space. Pretty good return for 8 inches. Lighting was another priority. “Our manager Michele plays an elaborate game of Tetris every single night, changing tables around to fit the various sizes of dining parties,” he explains. “But the lighting system wasn’t modular, so as soon as you started putting tables together it didn’t work with the lights.” New modular lighting allows for easier table-size customization, and changing the bathroom setup allowed for more seating in the dining room along the wall overlooking Bridge Street. Not too shabby. At the end of the day, he wanted people to walk in and think it looked great, but he didn’t want them to walk in and wonder, “Is it still Russell’s?”

DOMINIQUE TAYLOR PRICE Appetizers and Mains:$11-$22;salads:$28-$69 ••• AMBIANCE Classic steakhouse with views of Bridge Street or Gore Creek ••• SIGNATURE DISH Surf & Turf with Alaskan King Crab and an 8-oz. filet

When Drew Riley decided to update Russell’s this spring, he had several goals, not the least of which was making more efficient use of the space. “The last time we redid Russell’s was 1995, so it was due for a facelift,” says the managing partner, who spent his childhood literally growing up in the restaurant his father owned. “We’re making strategic improvements to increase the operating efficiency of Russell’s, but also things that feel new.”

“I told everyone on the team, the designer, the architect, the builder, that it still needs to look like Russell’s. People need to know they’re getting the same quality steak they’ve gotten all these years.”

36 EAT summer 2022 RUSSELL’S 228 BRIDGE STREET | VAIL | 970.476.6700 | RUSSELLSVAIL.COM VAIL

The most popular item on the menu is the filet mignon, often embellished with a king crab leg. The massive crab leg, perfectly steamed, brings the melt-in-your-mouth tender beef to another plane entirely. And unlike a la carte steakhouses, Russell’s provides the full meal: scalloped potatoes plus veggies and a hit of béarnaise sauce round out the plate. Those who prefer a peppercorn sauce should go for the New York Strip, or go all in on a ribeye. •

above Grilled ribeye and Alaskan king crab served with scalloped potatoes and the vegetable of the day. left Ahi tuna sashimi, lightly blackened, with marinated cabbage, ginger and wasabi.

DOMINIQUE

Summers are special in the valley: They arrive late and depart much too quickly. So, on those elusive perfect days, it’s essential to take full advantage of the experience. One of the best places to soak up the sun? Sauce on the Creek. With one of the best (and most underrated) patios in Eagle County, stellar happy hours and a menu that consistently offers up a quality experience, Sauce on the Creek is a diamond in East Avon’s rough. “After being open for four years, we're still putting out a great product,” says Ross Cohen, general manager at Sauce on the Creek. “It’s consistent and that's not just something that we say, that's something we get from all of ourInguests.”aplace that is so inherently transient, it can be difficult to maintain a consistent experience for every customer, but Sauce has it dialed. With quality ingredients and Chef Michael Irwin’s integrity towards both the overall operation as well as various elements that contribute to a guest’s visit, Sauce on the Creek has cemented a coveted place for both locals and visitorsAmbiancealike. is everything and Sauce has it in spades. A recent renovation expanded the patio so there is plenty of room for both special events and individual parties. Sip on a seasonal cocktail like the cucumber-basil gimlet, made with Fords Gin, St. Germain, cucumber, basil and lime – it’s the ultimate refresher after a day in the sun. Grab a table in time for the daily happy hour (3 - 5:30 p.m. every day) and soak up the sun while enjoying small plate specials and 25% off pizzas. Burgeoning whisk(e)y connoisseurs — or those who would like to add that spirit to their repertoire — should check out Whiskey Wednesday when everything whiskey is 25% off. It’s a great opportunity to branch out and try some of the higher-end whiskeys in stock: Sauce has quite a few, including Colorado favorites like 10th Mountain, Laws and Bear Creek as well as Pappy Van Winkle, Whistle Pig and Japanese varieties. Choose from a .75, 1.5 or 2 ounce pour. Not in a happy hour mood? Bring the family and enjoy the sharable portions that have made Sauce on the Creek a weekly staple for many. Options like the Rigatoni & Sausage, made with spicy Italian sausage and fresh basil in a sherry-tomato sauce, are best-sellers for many; add a family-sized salad (like the organic arugula and spinach salad) and the whole crew will be happy and satisfied. Is it Thursday? Check-out “bone-in Thursday” – each week features a different bone-in protein special that might feature beef, pork or another option – osso bucco, anyone?

Summer in the valley is meant to be savored. Whether it’s a Wednesday evening after a mountain bike ride or a sultry Sunday afternoon, there’s no better place to find your perfect seat; post up; chill out; fill up and eke out those perfect, buttery moments than at Sauce on the Creek. • above Rigatoni with spicy Italian sausage and basil in a sherry-tomato cream sauce. below Calamari Fritti with fried calamari and dipping sauces, alongside an Aero Oaxaca cocktail with Los Vecinos mezcal, Luxardo liquor, creme de violette, lemon and Luxardo cherry. page 11 Pan-roasted halibut. COAKLEY by TAYLOR

37vaildaily com AVON SAUCE ON THE CREEK TRAER CREEK | 101 FAWCETT ROAD | AVON 970.949.3291 | SAUCEONTHECREEK.COM

PRICE $6 soups$46 family-style meals ••• AMBIANCE Energetic, familyfriendly dining ••• SIGNATURE DISH Anythingfamily-styleserved by KATIE

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Chef Tim McCaw stepped into Vin’s kitchen late last year, bringing an enthusiasm that seems contagious. He would say he’s just keeping true to Vin’s original intent — be as local, sustainable and thoughtful as possible. Keep it interesting but not esoteric. Start with classic technique but feel free to wander. And definitely keep the pork and fish specials. The goat empenadas, Bang Island mussels and chicken liver mousse all have fan clubs, but Chef McCaw particularly likes the shrimp basilico with spinach fettuccine, basil and garlic. Another favorite is the octopus ceviche. “The octopus is fully poached, but sliced thin and just so flavorful,” he says. “It’s one of those dishes that you take a bite out of and your tastebuds explode.” That might be in part due to the Worcestershire sauce gelee that comes with it. A creation of his sous chef, it’s vibrant and flavorful. “It’s a real flavor punch,” he says, laughing. The fish of the day might be halibut or hamachi, salmon or ahi — a sauce, a salsa, a this and that. Likewise, the pork du jour comes from pigs bought whole and broken down in-house, the various cuts then smoked, brined, cured and more. Chef McCaw might stuff ravioli with it, or crown some polenta. But the pork specials always start with the pork chops, which are best fresh and fly out of the kitchen when they hit the menu.

When three local boys left a highly seasonal resort restaurant to open their own place down the hill in Avon, it was a gamble. Part wine bar, part neighborhood joint, the contemporary-yet-cozy eatery easily won the hearts and palates of locals up and down the valley. There’s always a crackle of energy in the air, a congenial hubbub of friendly conversation amidst the murmurs of appreciation for shared plates and intriguing wines. And with a newly expanded patio area that’s more private and protected than in years past, it’s definitely a summer hotspot. “We’re kind of a local favorite that’s turning into a destination spot,” says General Manager Dana Gerimonte. “It’s becoming harder to maintain that local persona because there’s so many people that come in from all over, and come specifically to eat here.” There’s no big secret why that is. Vin is the whole package: ambiance, service, creativity consistency and just pure fun. And doesn’t that menu just shine.

“It’s comfort food, but not really,” says Chef McCaw. “It’s something that draws pretty much anyone. It’s seasoned well, cooked well.”

PRICE Snacks start at $9; large plates start at $24 ••• AMBIANCE Modern mountain setting serving seasonal, Colorado cuisine ••• SIGNATURE DISH Pork du Jour VIN48 48 E. BEAVER CREEK BLVD. | AVON 970.748.WINE | VIN48.COM by WREN BOVA photos

“It’s one of the deepest kitchens I’ve seen in a long time,” says Gerimonte, about the talent of the chefs. And he should know — though hired as a manager, when he started the restaurant’s immediate need was kitchen staff, so there he was. Back out front now, he appreciates working at a place where the owners are very committed to the whole operation, and to their staff as well. “They understand what’s necessary when it comes to food and fine dining. And they believe in the future of fine dine restaurants, to the idea that we can continue to have great food and a great experience, at a fair price.” • above Spanish octopus ceviche, cucumber, red onion, avocado, radish, Worcestershire gelee, crispy quinoa and tortilla chips. left Grilled Wagyu steak frites with broccolini, crispy mushrooms, brandy demi glacé, Masia el Altet truffle parmesan fries. page 12 Grilled Mountain View pork chop, potato puree, potato-carrot hash, black beancorn salsa. by

38 EAT summer 2022 AVON

Recently, steak frites made an appearance on the specials list, and from the looks of it might have to stay a while.

DOMINIQUE TAYLOR

4 SOMMELIERS ON ST AFF LARGE SELECTION OF RARE/ EVER YD AY WINES CHECK OUT OUR EXP ANDED CRAFT BEER ROOM 10% OFF EVER Y CA SE OF WINE 970-926-8111 wine@vail.net in the Riverwalk in Edwards riverwalkwineand spirits.com DELIVERING EX CELLENCE SINCE 1996 ONL Y4 .4% SALES TA X Free Deliver y

LightFIREthe

Dimitri Souvorin of Montauk Seafood Grill is likely to fire up the grill at home, even though he spends hours grilling at work. He never gets tired of fish prepared simply, so the quality shines.

40 EAT summer 2022

The DOMINIQUEtimesummer-forbeckonsgrilleasy,mealsBYWRENBOVA...PHOTOSBYTAYLOR

unshine, warm days, friends and family: It’s grill-time. Though there are many year-round grillers — those dedicated citizens who step outside in freezing temps and tend whatever is sizzling away on the grates — summer brings everyone to the open flame. We eschew the long braises and slow cookery of winter’s traditional ingredient lineup, and instead focus on the seeming miracle of ripe produce that needs only a glance of heat and some simple seasoning to shine. And though burgers might be the de facto choice to center the plate, fish is just as easy — and epitomizes the lightness of theDimitriseason.Souvorin has never had a nonculinary job. No newspaper route, no construction gig, no snowboard-instructor stint. Cooking since before he hit double digits, he’s beyond comfortable in a busy kitchen, putting out hundreds of meals in an evening. But when he heads home, he’s more likely to fire up the grill on his deck than turn on the stove. And his favorite thing to toss on the barby? “I love grilling fish,” Souvorin says. Which is a good thing, as he’s the executive chef at Montauk Seafood Grill. His advice? “Go easy,” he advises. “Be gentle. A really hot grill makes those dark grill marks which we might want on a steak, but they can overpower fish. You want to go slow. Ease down, take your time, don’t overcook it. Most fish is great to be eaten with a little bit of color, some translucence or glassiness is what you’re looking for. Especially if you’re buying good quality fish. If you’re not sure, break it open, take a little peek inside. I’ve been grilling fish my whole life and I still crack it open.”

42 EAT summer 2022

All fish benefits from a little acid. Chef Souvorin is a fan of fresh pineapple salsa with both halibut and salmon. For a meatier tuna steak, try an herbal chimichurri.

Like most things, fish will continue to cook after it’s taken off the grill, so some transparency is good in the flesh. And while Souvorin loves to cook any and everything on the grill — including shrimp and crab in their shells — he recommends starting with salmon. It’s a pretty forgiving fish, in terms of cookery. The chef and grill master doesn’t recommend only going easy on the fish — go easy on yourself, too. Grilled fish doesn’t need to be complicated. Keep it simple, keep it fresh. “It’s really all about sweetness and acid,” he explains. “Fish is always made better with a little acid, that’s why everyone squeezes lemon on their fish. It freshens it up, intensifies the flavors.” At Montauk, they serve their grilled fish with a pineapple salsa, which offers sweetness, acidity and heat. Fruit salsas are cutting-board affairs, and can be punched up with a smack of herbs or chiles. “It’s just fruit, cilantro, a little bit of red onion, some lime,” he says. “Any very simple fresh fruit salsa brightens up a piece of fish. You can use any kind of fruit. And remember, tomatoes are fruit. Cucumbers are fruit.” He might just as easily use watermelon and mint instead of pineapple and cilantro. The important thing is that it’s fresh and complements the fish instead of drawing the focus. And a last morsel of parting advice from Souvorin: “Any time that I’m grilling fish, I make sure that the rest of the plate is ready first, so grilling the fish is the last part of the meal that I do.” •

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Though Japanese whisky has many applications, one of the best ways to enjoy it is simply in a highball glass with largescale ice cubes, as they do at Hovey & Harrison in Edwards.

SAVORING THE COMPLEX, WORLDLY TASTE OF 44 EAT summer 2022

“We haven’t seen many of the higher-end stuff for six months now, so I end up going over to restaurants like Sato and drooling at their selection,” Osborn says. A flurry of attention to Japanese whisky means the heavy hitters, many of which can exceed $500, tend to end up at restaurants, and not on liquor store shelves.

“Typically, we advise people to start with a base Hatozaki small batch or one of the Suntory brands, and you’ll discover that their aging process doesn’t pick up as many wood notes as bourbon or Scotch, though it has a bourbon-style taste,” he says. “Japanese whisky tastes crisper and cleaner, with a few baking notes — vanilla and spices.”

KANPAI! JAPANESE WHISKY

As you might guess, the history of Japa nese whisky and Scotland’s distilling heritage BY ANDY STONEHOUSE

I f, like many people, the entire extent of your knowledge about the fascinating world of Japanese whisky is Bill Murray’s role in 2003’s “Lost in Translation” (where he films endless, jetlagged commercial takes of “For relaxing times, make it Suntory time”) … well, that’s not really a bad place to start.

The big issue, explains Jarrett Osborn, owner and wine specialist at Riverwalk Wine and Spirts, is that Japanese whiskies’ surge in popularity have also made them costly and hard to come by. Especially if you’re looking for favorites like the Yamazaki 12-year-old, or even the acclaimed Hibiki Japanese Harmony.

The last two decades have indeed seen a revolution in the world of spirits, and while hundreds and hundreds of new craft-grade American bourbon and upstart Scotch whiskies have appeared, it’s been a slow build for Japanese whisky. But that’s changed recently as a new gen eration of aficionados have started to discover the intricacies and diversity of Japan’s take on whisky — which, like its Highlands role model, drops the ‘e’ and can be as complex and heavi ly peated as your favorite Islay single malt.

You are not, however, entirely out of luck, as Osborn and other local retailers still carry a good selection of more affordable options — Suntory’s Toki, for instance, is a great $40 introduction to the genre, and items such as Nikka Coffey Grain (named for the inventor of the Scotch whisky still, not the flavor) are easily obtainable.

Gary Schwedt, co-owner of West Vail Liquor Mart, also carries about a half-dozen selections, topping out with a hand-painted, limited-edition Hibiki priced at $499. He says the subtleties of Japanese whisky make it a spirit that’s distinct from other, better-known international varieties.

“It is something different, and a lot of the entry-level stuff is still reasonably priced, compared to Scotch, so it did initially represent a bit of a bargain, compared to even some of the new Irish whiskies,” he adds.

Torii’s aspiration was to create an authentically Japanese variation of Scotland’s long-standing liquor of choice; he teamed with Masataka Taketsuru, who had spent time studying the craft in Scotland, to help create Suntory’s first products. Taketsuru left in 1934 to establish what is now Nikka distilling, another of Japan’s long-standing whisky-makers. Besides some stray bottles of Suntory in airport lounges and retailer’s shelves, Americans by and large ignored Japanese whisky, though things changed in 2001 when a Nikka 10-year-old Yoichi single-malt was dubbed the international whiskey of the world by Whiskey Meanwhile,Magazine.Suntory grew globally and in 2014 purchased Kentucky’s own Jim Beam Brands, part of a company that also owns Scotland’s Laphroaig and Mexico’s Sauza.

“Ichiro Akuto really knows what the heck he’s doing, blending Irish, Scottish, American and Canadian whiskies together,” he says. “It comes off like an elegant bourbon, with sort of a lighter, non-peaty Scotch taste as well.”

Other brands, such as the Mars Maltage “Cosmo” employ Scottish base product in old bourbon barrels to create their own unique variations.

Provided you’ve been able to get your hands on a bottle, the traditions of Japanese whisky consumption are perhaps a little more like Japan’s other ubiquitous spirits, sake and shochu, a distilled, higher-alcohol made of rice, barley or even root vegetables. That is, don’t do anything too fancy: Japanese whisky is also a social drink, designed to be enjoyed with friends. Given Japan’s sticky summers and cold winters, its most popular and authentic presentation is the classic highball. An ample serving of even the simplest Japanese whisky, combined with ice and soda water in the simmering summer, or hot water during a chilly winter evening, will help accentuate the unique flavors.

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HOW TO JAPANESEDRINKWHISKY

Japanese whisky’s literally blended roots and multicultural connections have created a bit of an issue in more recent years so the industry has attempted to clarify just what is, and is not, a 100% Japanese product. Unlike the rules in the U.K. and elsewhere, Japanese whisky labeling has been somewhat indistinct, even in terms of age of the spirits, and products have actually been blends of non-Jap anese products. By 2024, the Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Marketing Association has established new standards that specify Japanese whisky needs to be fermented, distilled, aged and bottled in Japan, with malted grain and Japanese water. Osborn says this is actually a positive as the Japanese distilleries are specifically marketing so-called world whiskies, such as Ichiro’s Malt and Grain varieties, which retail for about $110.

“YOU’LL DISCOVER THAT THEIR AGING PROCESS DOESN’T PICK UP AS MANY WOOD NOTES AS BOURBON OR SCOTCH, THOUGH IT HAS A BOURBON-STYLE TASTE. JAPANESE WHISKY TASTES CRISPER AND CLEANER, WITH A FEW BAKING NOTES — VANILLA AND SPICES.” are intertwined — with its own, more recent bourbon connection, too. Japan is still a relative upstart in the whisky world, with the first offi cial Japanese distillery founded in 1924. Shinjiro Torii established what would eventually become the larger Suntory brand in Yamazaki, a Kyoto neighborhood known for its long tea culture.

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