{arts and dining}
parsley and lemon juice. Cauliflower is the perfect host for Table’s version of the buttery meuniere sauce, which includes leeks, hazelnuts and capers. The meatiness of the vegetable complements the simple yet decadent sauce, neither is overpowered by the other. The ricotta gnudi – gnudi resembles a small dumpling – has pillowy rounds of ricotta nestled in a deep and flavorful romesco sauce. Slightly charred wedges of brussel sprout hover along the edges of the bowl, adding crunch and smoke. The menu reads like the result of a late spring evening’s walk through a magical garden. Who could resist a white asparagus soup with shaved baby vegetables? Or ricotta beignets laced with orange blossom honey? Not anyone I want to eat with. It’s difficult to make vegetables the star. One has to be extremely skilled in the kitchen to be innovative enough to make a carnivorously inclined individual even think about ordering a plate of cauliflower, and Table has succeeded in this area. Even when vegetables are on the side, they are so beautifully prepared and presented, that Cauliflower Meuniere is a guest favorite, and one of the Chef’s favorites as well. The cauliflower is pan seared and basted with brown butter and lemon, finished with capers and leeks and toasted hazelnuts.
104 H Hillrag.com
Chef Patrick Robinson marries clean, simple American cuisine and zaps it with a touch of French influence that elevates the offerings, and utilizes the freshest of what’s in season.
they steal a little thunder from whatever meat they are draped across, below or beside. Squid stuffed with swiss chard pesto on a bed of piperade (a combo of onion, green peppers and tomatoes cooked down with red Espelette pepper) and serrano ham is delightfully colorful, the bright green of the pesto
mixing in with the intensity of the reds. Crispy-skinned guinea hen is flanked by a hill of ramps, carrot and white onion – and there’s an added surprise of a soft, glazed meatball plopped in the middle. But even with both guinea hen and meatball sitting in a cherry reduction sauce, I still found my attention drifting to the mound of colorful baby veggies. A dry aged NY strip steak should have been the main event – but the slightly crispy, thick cut salted slices of sweet potato nearly upstaged the beautiful piece of meat. Table not only shows its love affair with its vegetables through its food – outside, one can’t help but notice the large vertical hanging planters, laden with various greenery. Upon entering, a similar swath of wall is covered with herbs and plants. The restaurant itself is small, with only about ten tables (a mix of two and four tops) combined with two chef’s tables that abut the long open-access kitchen in the middle of the space. Keeping on trend with the more thoughtful way we eat these days, people want to see chefs and their teams in action, to feel more connected with food and the artistry that goes into it. Even if you aren’t at a chef’s table, you can easily watch the chef at work – a positive aspect of a not-so-huge space. And the rooftop garden terrace is a must for a glass of rose and a bite on a warm summer evening. Vegetables can be tricky. A small eating space can be tricky. Delivering fresh, seasonal, streamlined yet interesting European influenced dishes in a small space showcasing as many vegetables as possible sounds like a challenge indeed. And yet this is exactly what Table has done, demonstrating this cozy neighborhood spot probably hasn’t seen the last of its accolades come in. u