MY STORY GM Tim McHugh

Korea – Then and Now A Voyage Back in Time with Grandmaster Tim McHugh By Master Guy Edward Larke

South Korea, the Land of the Morning Calm, has captured our senses and has become a part of nearly part of our lives. It is hard to imagine the technological powerhouse not being part of computers, automobiles, sports, entertainment, politics, history… and at the heart of it all…. The martial art of Tae Kwon Do. After wowing the world in the 1988 Olympics, the massive demonstration of speed, power and skill mesmerized the world and made its mark. Nearly 25 years later, you can find Tae Kwon Do schools in nearly every town and city throughout the world. When I moved to South Korea in 2000, I felt a bit exotic as there were so few ex-pats in the country, especially in the dojangs. Over the course of the next two decades, I felt like I saw 3 or 4 generations pass as Korea develops so fast! A number of years into my time here I found myself working with and studying Tang Soo Do. One of the several visitors we greeted was a veteran in Moo Duk Kwon, Tang Soo Do, Tae Kwon Do, and… pretty much the full gamut of martial arts in the nation. His name… Grandmaster Tim McHugh. Finally, I met another foreigner (an American to be precise) who could not only relate to the difficulties a lifelong foreign martial artist, but could explain the “how”, the “why”, and “what next” better than most. Lots of people talk a good talk. As a writer I am very much aware of that. The aspects of his 50 years of training in the Korean arts could fill a large novel. For now, we are going take a little history trip into the 80’s and 90’s when Korean martial arts were on the upswing with the rest of the nation. A natural athlete, Tim grew up in Detroit in the US. He discovered Korean martial arts during a visit to recreational center that held swimming classes. He took to the arts quickly and eventually came to the attention of a famed Korean grandmaster, Jae Joon Kim. After a string of tournament victories, he followed a dream of traveling to Moo Duk Kwon’s motherland. It is there that this tale begins.

1. When did you start considering military or law enforcement as a career? Well, truthfully, law enforcement was actually my second choice. Martial arts were always the first love in my life and continue to be my passion to this day. However, as circumstances changed, so did the direction of my career(s). But since the question is about law enforcement, I will answer accordingly. As a child, my friends and I would often play “cops and robbers.” I somehow always ended up being one of the “cops.” As such, I found that I enjoyed acting as the policeman and capturing the “bad guys.” Growing up around Detroit in the 1960s was pretty tough. Crime was rampant and fighting was an everyday thing. However, I always looked up to the law enforcement officers and saw them as a positive influence. 2. Why Korea? What attracted you to it? What attracted me to Korea was, without a doubt, my passion for martial arts. My primary styles were (are) Taekwondo, Hap Ki Do and Tang Soo Do. That being the case, I could not think of any better place to pursue my martial arts dreams. 3. Did your master influence your decision? Of course! My original masters were all from Korea. Jae Joon Kim, Chung Il Kim and Kwang Sik Myung were the three most influential teachers from my martial arts beginning. Incidentally, even most of my American seniors back then were all married to Korean women, including Dale Drouillard, David Praim and Lynn Jackson.

MY STORY

GM Tim McHugh

You could almost say that I was immersed in Korean culture from day one. I grew up hearing Korean being spoken, eating Korean food and listening to Korean music. It has always been very familiar to me. 4. What year did you enlist? I toyed around with joining the military right out of High School, but my parents were opposed. I had to promise that I would finish college first. If I did that, then I could do whatever I wanted. So, after 1985, I checked out a couple recruiters and said that I would sign ONLY if they would guarantee me being sent to Korea. I had no interest whatsoever in Europe, Japan, etc. 5. What form of training and/ or education did you receive prior to starting your duties? So, I considered a few different types of MOS, but ultimately decided on Military Police. There seemed to be a high demand for this type of work in Korea at that time, which pretty much guaranteed getting that location. Obviously, everyone must complete the ASVAB test, Basic Training, etc. prior to being sent out. 6. Where were you stationed? Primarily Seoul. 7. In what capacity were you working? Military Police as well as a few classified assignments. 8. When did you arrive in Korea?

Spring of 1985 was the first time.

9. How much of a culture shock was it for you? Did your master properly prepare you for what you saw?

As I mentioned, I had been around Korean culture for most of my life, so I thought that I was pretty well prepared. But honestly, nothing can get you ready for when you completely immerse yourself in a foreign land, especially an exotic place like Korea. As Westerners, we can more or less become accustomed to Europe, or even South America rather quickly, but Asia was a completely different experience. The language, customs, smells, etc. could be overwhelming at first.

10. What was Seoul like at that time?

So, one thing I noticed about Seoul is that it was, and is, ALWAYS changing! They are constantly building or renovating something. In the early eighties, Seoul was already a big, bustling city, but there were still a great many pockets and neighborhoods which hadn’t changed very much since the 1960s and 70s. But by the 1988 Olympics, the city was completely transformed, especially on the southern side of the Han River. Districts like Gangnam and Jamsil were transformed in such a short time. That was mind-blowing!

I remember the very first time I visited Kukkiwon. The main building was actually visible from the street. Likewise, the walk up the hill (under the gate) was fairly desolate, with just trees lining the sidewalk. Today, there are so many stores, restaurants and coffee shops in the area that it’s actually easy to miss the Kukkiwon, entirely.

I resided in the Yongsan district at that time. That was where the main U.S. Army Base (Yongsan Garrison) was located. Since this was the 8th Army Headquarters, there were a great many U.S servicemen, along with their families living in the area. The neighborhood known as Itaewon was located just off base and was a haven for American military personnel. There were dozens of shops and restaurants that sold things like imitation Rolex watches, Adidas warm-up suit knockoffs and the like. Hamburger and pizza places were also abundant. To be honest, it wasn’t exactly like back home, but it was enough to satisfy the occasional craving. I also remember that infamous path, which led up a hill, to the seedy, “red light” district. This was a busy place at night, especially on weekends. The street was lined with bars and dance clubs, while loud American music was blaring everywhere.

As previously mentioned, city officials attempted to clean up the area in time for the Olympics. By the late 90s into the early 2000s, Itaewon had completed a transformation. Now it’s mostly upscale restaurants and coffee shops, catering to English teachers, businessmen and expats. All in all, Seoul has always been a “work in progress” and I see something new and different every time I return.

11. Where and with whom did you train?

Although there were martial arts classes available on base, I wanted to experience the “real deal” and decided to venture out into the small, private gyms in the area. I spent some time training at a small school in Namdaemun. It belonged to Choi Nam Do, the former president of the Korea Taekwondo Moo Duk Kwan Association. I would also visit the Moo Duk Kwan main gym in Mapo-dong, owned by Lee Kang Ik. In Korea, it was common to have mid-level (5th-6th dan) masters teaching most classes. The Kwanjang-Grandmaster might conduct training from time-to-time, but that was rare. There was a Ki-Do Hoe-Hapkido school in Cheongpa-dong, on the other side of Seoul Station, where I would attend class a couple nights a week. I can’t recall the master’s name, though. In 1986, the new Soo Bahk Do (Tang Soo Do) HQ was opened in Namyong-dong. I would also sometimes visit there. The master at that time was named Han. The founder, Hwang Kee would occasionally come by as well.

In those days, there weren’t any exchange programs yet. It was very difficult for foreigners to train at colleges or universities. I managed to meet some upper-level Taekwondo masters at Kukkiwon, who eventually arranged for me to do some training at Kyung Hee University, as well as the then-Korea Judo College (eventually renamed as Korea National College of Physical Education).

12. What were dojang conditions like at that time?

Oh wow, where do I begin??? Compared to today’s standards, you could say that they were quite primitive. Most private gyms were small and cramped. The lighting was often minimal, and heat-air conditioning was virtually non-existent. A dojang could be located anywhere, sometimes on the second or third floor of a building. Jigsaw “puzzle” mats hadn’t been invented yet, so most schools had a type of foam rubber laid out over the floor, covered with a huge vinyl tarp. There were lumps and wrinkles all over the place…stubbed toes and twisted ankles were a common thing. Students would fold and hang their dobok up in the dojang after class, only to be worn again the following day. A “gym” smell permeated most schools. But no one complained…it was normal. Virtually every dojang had a water hose and a big plastic tub in the corner, where members would wash up after class. It was nothing like the big, modern schools we have today.

13. What was the training like as compared to back home?

In general, that would depend on the martial art. In the USA, Taekwondo training seemed more traditional, with a lot of basics, forms and one-steps. In 1980s Korea, it was assumed that students learned those in the early stages (i.e., color belts). For teens and adults, the main emphasis was on kicking and footwork. The primary focus was on sparring techniques. The first WTF Poomsae Championships wouldn’t come about for another two decades (2006), therefore forms training back then was sometimes thought of as an inconvenient formality. The demonstration teams were also very impressive, although not necessarily as sophisticated as today. The breaking techniques, for example, were solid and realistic. There was no flying 20 feet in the air and breaking boards, suspended on poles! During this era, the standardization was not quite there yet, as the Kukkiwon International Master Courses were not organized until the late 1990s. Nonetheless, I think it was an exciting time to be in Korea. Taekwondo was being transformed on a huge scale, and I am very fortunate to have witnessed it first-hand.

On the contrary, Hapkido in Korea during that period was somewhat underrated. Of course, there were many schools, but they did not share the popularity of Taekwondo. Where I trained, the main emphasis was on falling and hosinsul (self-defense) techniques. We did not do any kinds of forms or sparring. Students wore plain, black uniforms (contrary to the USA, where we wore white judo gi’s). My impression was that Hapkido training really varied from schoolto-school and was not quite as systemized as it is today. I think that in recent years, it has also become somewhat commercialized, with tournaments, free sparring, etc. Luckily though, Hapkido seems to have maintained its own distinctiveness, despite Finally, I’ll share a few recollections on Tang Soo Do. What surprised me, is that I could not find a Tang Soo Do dojang anywhere, at least initially. Hwang Kee’s legendary “main gym” next to the train station had closed a number of years earlier, and the only places I saw in Seoul that taught this art were military facilities. The one exception was in the small town of Osan, where a Tang Soo Do gym apparently still existed. A friend and I drove about 40 minutes to check it out. The school was a small, unassuming building, with a wooden floor and tons of old photos on the walls. We were greeted by a “Master Kim” who said that there were not many locals that trained there. Most classes were for U.S. military personnel from the nearby air base. In 1988, the new Moo Duk Kwan main gym was opened in Namyong-dong (Seoul), and is still there today. If memory serves, the name of the master was Han. I trained there a few times as well. The classes were very strict and traditional, similar to what I remember from back home, in my youth. The main difference was that everything was in Korean, of course, as well as by that time, they were introducing the Chil Sung forms. Supposedly, these were created by Hwang Kee in the early 1950s, but no one I knew in the States had ever seen them until the mid1980s or so. The gym was relatively spacious (by Korean standards) and had a beautiful hardwood floor. I would walk by at times and see a handful of students training, but it was nothing like the numbers I recall seeing in the taekwondo schools. Regardless, I was happy that Tang Soo Do was still alive in its native land.

14. Do you have any special memories from that period?

What stands out, in general, is spring of 1987 and the huge student protests. The U.S. military was on constant alert and the smell of tear gas was everywhere. It would eventually subside, but the entire experience was surreal. I vividly remember the Detroit riots as a child, but I was too young to fully comprehend what they really meant. This, on the other hand, was a truly disconcerting experience.

Regarding martial arts, I have so many fond memories from this time period. I had the opportunity to meet numerous influential people, including Dr. Un Yong Kim (founding President Kukkiwon and

WTF), Chong Soo Hong (Vice President of Kukkiwon, KTA and former President of Taekwondo Moo Duk Kwan), as well as many other prominent and historical figures, such as senior Kwan leaders, Kukkiwon and WTF officials, future Olympians and other legendary figures. Sadly, many of them have passed on by now. What stays in my mind was that they always seemed so pleasantly surprised that a foreigner would dedicate himself so strongly to their martial art/sport. I recall being at the Kukkiwon during some high school championships. Grandmaster Hong (VP at the time) noticed me and gestured for me to join him in the VIP area of the main stadium. He sat me down in the front row, between him and President Kim, and we all chatted for a good thirty minutes. Everyone was so impressed to have a guest from the USA. Similarly, I was at the Moo Duk Kwan one afternoon, when Hwang Kee happened to come in. He had apparently inquired about me and within a few minutes, we were in his upstairs office talking. He asked about my background, who I trained with and so on. He shared several stories and I almost felt as though I was sitting with my grandfather. He had a certain charm about him. He gifted me with a copy of his textbook (in Korean) and we took a photo together, while he smiled and held my hand the entire time (not uncommon in Korean culture). He truly made me feel like a family member.

I have too many of these kinds of memories to share in the short space of a magazine article. Suffice it to say that this was indeed a special time in my life that I will cherish forever. My early days in Korea made me realize a few things: 1) By training in the homeland of my chosen martial arts, I felt a stronger connection to my Korean masters and seniors who had left years earlier. I came to appreciate where they were from, how they lived and what they experienced. The best analogy that comes to mind is when an Irish-American, for example, visits his ancestral homeland. Seeing the village or town where his great grandparents lived makes him feel more grateful to them, as well as to the legacy left to him. He feels a real sense of pride in his heritage. He comes to the realization that there is more to being Irish than dressing up in green clothes on St. Patrick’s Day. This is how I felt after having spent that time in Korea. 2) I began to understand that I was a part of something so much larger than myself. Back home I trained, competed, and even taught martial arts, but by spending time in Korea, I was able to better comprehend the true nature of Taekwondo, Hap Ki Do and Tang Soo Do. I could better appreciate the history and philosophy by witnessing, first-hand, where it all began, where it all took place… 3) From childhood, through my teens, I was around Korean martial arts masters nearly on a daily basis. I heard countless stories about Korea, ate Korean food from time to time and even knew some basic Korean language. However, by going and spending so much time there, I utterly fell in love with the country, its people, the customs, food and even music. To this day, I will often go on YouTube and search for “Pong-chak” songs (sort of a Korean pop style from the 70s, 80s and 90s). Even now, decades later, I try to continue learning about the unique history and culture of this beautiful land.

16. When did you return to the US?

I haven’t…no seriously, I’ve traveled to Korea so many times over the past forty years, that it truly seems as though I never left. In fact, prior to the outbreak of Covid, I would fly there several times per year for various functions, including Kukkiwon Hanmadang, Seoul Global Taekwondo Leaders Forum, Moo Duk Kwan events, meetings, etc. Honestly, I will probably move there upon retirement and eventually be buried in Korea. A couple things come to mind, as far as changes: 1) Virtually everyone under fifty in Korea today speaks some English…at least around Seoul. Taxi drivers, waiters and even just normal people on the street will be able to help you find your way, for example, to your hotel or the subway station. Back forty years ago, this was not the case. Granted, many Koreans in Itaewon and other areas near the base knew some English, but that was pretty much it. Now with smartphones, GoogleTranslate and other apps, communication is practically a no-brainer. 2) The martial arts industry in Korea seems to have taken a lesson from the West as far as commercialism is concerned. In the eighties and nineties, everyone wore a plain, standard dobok, with a Korean flag on the chest and, perhaps, a simple “Taekwondo” sewn on the back of the top. Today, you can see uniforms of various colors, styles and designs…all with patches and other insignia/logos up and down the sleeves and pant legs. Honestly, in certain cases, I think it’s a little overkill. I rather miss the simplicity and uniformity of the old days.

What hasn’t changed is the wonderful nature of the Korean people and their culture. Once they get to know you, Koreans are very warm and hospitable. They love to eat, drink, sing and have fun. Their food is still incredible and there are amazing restaurants everywhere. Additionally, Korea is a modern country, and you can easily find places like McDonalds, KFC, Dunkin Donuts and Starbucks. But in all honesty, why go there? Korea offers so many fantastic places of its own. I don’t know anyone who could be bored there.

Grandmaster McHugh can be found on Facebook at Kamaa Kwanjang or at grandmastermchugh@gmail.com. -------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------Senior Master Guy Edward Larke has spent most of his life enamored with the martial arts of Asia and Asian cultures in general. These led him to move to South Korea 20 years ago where he continued to study, research, and write about the various disciplines that shaped his life. In addition to teaching martial arts in Korea, USA, Malaysia and Denmark he has written over 800 articles in over 20 magazines. He named the synthesis of his pilgrimage Kisa-Do Muye (the Knights Way Martial Arts). Larke can be found on Facebook or by e-mail at kisadomuye@gmail.com.