No13 OCTOBER | NOVember 2010
Latino Lifestyle Magazine
y
BITCH
Electronic beats give tired cumbia new life
Common threads help weave new Latino cultural connections
Space invaders: a new spin on classic tamales
Striving to recapture lost roots, language
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Latino Lifestyle Magazine
OCTOBER | NOVember 2010
FEATURES
39 44 48 52
TAMALES meet ART
Tamalli Space Charros serve up tamales with an artsy twist words Maura Wall Hernández
digital cumbia
Electronica musicians put a new spin on a traditional Colombian beat words Daniela Garcia
common thread
A group of Latinos use needlework to build community words Belia Ortega
reaching back
‘Retro-acculturation’ helps Latinos reconnect with their roots words Carrie Ferguson Weir
Men’s fashion photo shoot. Page 58 | photo alberto treviño |
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Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
Lanzo luxury knit cardigan Stone Grey by J.Lindberg, $186 Akira Endor shirt by Hugo Boss, $154 Bloomingdales Matt Comfort Cord in Driftwood pants by Mavi Jeans, $88 Akira Boots by Bed Stu, $240 Akira Gloves by Hugo Boss, $210 Bloomingdales Leather pouch, $45 Silver Room
Un buen compadre es un amigo responsable. JACK DANIEL’S Y OLD NO. 7 SON MARCAS COMERCIALES REGISTRADAS DE JACK DANIEL’S. © 2010. WHISKY TENNESSEE. 40% DE ALCOHOL POR VOLÚMEN [80 GRADOS] .DESTILADO Y EMBOTELLADO POR JACK DANIEL DISTILLERY, LEM MOTLOW, PROPRIETOR, ROUTE 1, LYNCHBURG [POP. 361], TENNESSEE 37352.
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DEPARTMENTS 6 publisher’s Note Julián G. Posada Editor’s Note 8 Dear Café
Alejandro Riera Readers feedback
Café Espresso 11 Somos 12 ¿sabías que? 14 The Buzz 16 upgrade 18 sinvergüenza 20 la plaza 22 voices 24 gente 26 spotlight
Omar Acosta Cultural factoids Must attend events Breast cancer awareness Back to culture Mid-term elections Fernando Espuelas A bakery with heart Celebrating the cuatro
Café Filter
29 get ahead
32 con gusto 34 familia
Community colleges grow Sweet and spicy candies Surviving breast cancer
Café Grande
58 fashion
Male city trends
CafÉ Blend
67 MUST gO
72 todo tosí 74 dining 76 restaurant guide 78 Sociales 80 talk back
Concha Buika’s U.S. tour Calendar of events The search for the best cubano A list of Latino eateries Latino social scene ¿Como ves?
The CONTRIBUTORS Chris Malcolm Chris has helped launch ChicagoSports. com, a newspaper and a Chicago-based TV network, but he’d trade it all for one day as the Chicago Blackhawks mascot. He’s currently collaborating with his two-year-old son on a self-published book “The Naps Get In The Way,” but the naps keep getting in the way. Chris lives with his family in Elmhurst, Ill.
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Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
Jackie Madrigal A seasoned journalist and communications specialist, Jackie developed and headed the Latin section of the national radio/music industry publication Radio & Records, which closed its doors in 2009. Prior to that, Jackie was editor-in-chief of another national radio/music industry publication, the Spanish-language Radio y Música magazine.
Carlos Anguita Carlos worked as a staff photographer and photo editor during his 25-year tenure with The San Juan Star – the only publication outside of the U.S. to be awarded a Pulitzer Prize – and two magazines owned by the Star’s parent company. Since relocating to Minnesota from San Juan two years ago, Carlos has been working as a freelance photographer.
THEBRING THE WHOLE FAMILIAVISIT
Bring the family along to celebrate the bicentennial of Mexican Independence while surrounded by art – never before seen in the U.S. – from the Museo Nacional de Antropología in Mexico.
B A L L P L AY E R S , G O D S , AND RAINMAKER KINGS:
MASTERPIECES FROM ANCIENT MEXICO
SEPTEMBER 16 – JANUARY 2
artinstituteofchicago.org Xochicalco, Macaw Marker, A.D. 600/900. Xochicalco, Morelos, Mexico. CONACULTA-INAH, Museo Nacional de Antropología, Mexico City. Photograph ©Jorge Pérez de Lara; Maya, Ballcourt Marker, A.D. 591. La Esperanza, Chiapas, Mexico. CONACULTA-INAH, Museo Nacional de Antropología, Mexico City. Photograph ©Jorge Pérez de Lara; Mexica-Aztec, Xochipilli, c. A.D. 1500. Tlalmanalco, Mexico. CONACULTA-INAH, Museo Nacional de Antropología, Mexico City. Photograph ©John Bigelow Taylor.
This exhibition is organized by the Art Institute of Chicago in collaboration with the Museo Nacional de Antropología in Mexico City and the Museo de Antropología de Xalapa to commemorate Mexico’s Bicentennial of Independence from Spain, and the Centennial of the Revolution of 1910. Support for this exhibition is provided in part by the Gilchrist Foundation. Generous support is provided by members of the Exhibitions Trust.
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julian posada
PUBLISHER’S NOTE Happy anniversary, Café Media. It’s been an amazing two years! The goal of Café Media has always been to fill a void in the media landscape by offering culturally-relevant content to the largest growing segment of the U.S. population—acculturated Latinos. Our work has focused on exploring and showcasing the contemporary Latino lifestyle. In doing so, Café Media has shown how complex, dynamic and unique the Latino market truly is. And proven through our steadily rising subscription base and popularity of our digital and experiential products that, even though there is room for both English-language and Spanish-language media products, today’s contemporary Latino is connecting, learning, collaborating and socializing over content with cultural meaning that is communicated in the English-language. Café Media has survived on the generous support of our Editorial Advisory Board members, angel investors and pioneering advertisers who see the value of investing in the fastest growing segment of the U.S. population. Innovative media partnerships with key markeers such as PNC Bank, Harrah’s Entertainment, Macy’s, U.S. Cellular, Diageo, Harris Bank and Verizon have proven the importance of catering to Latino interests as a dominant force in today’s economy. Thank you. We at Café Media appreciate your belief in our vision and in becoming part of this endeavor. Moving forward, you can expect to access more of Café’s original content online through our digital and social media platforms where we hope to continue to cultivate an interactive relationship with you, our readers, fans and followers. Personally, I am humbled by the support and enthusiasm the readers, community leaders, advertisers and our investors have demonstrated towards the vision of, and their generous contributions to, the spirit of Café Media. Thank you one and all. It has truly been an honor to serve you and a pleasure to be celebrating another year with you.
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Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
Alejandro Riera
editor’s note Culture not only evolves, it mutates. It’s a thriving, living organism. It embraces elements from other cultures while retaining the basic elements of its genetic code. Latino culture is no exception. At its essence, Latino culture is a by-product of the encounters (some would even say clash) of three cultures: America’s indigenous Indian, African and Spanish. But even Spanish culture is an amalgam of several cultures: Islamic, Jewish, Roman. Into this equation you must add the different ethnic groups who have migrated to the Americas in the past two centuries: the Irish, the Italian, the Jewish, Asians and on and on. Each has contributed and left its unique mark on our continental culture. Latino culture has made its own contributions to the U.S. mainstream culture by creating its own artistic movements while embracing and even assimilating others. Latino culture is much more than folkloric song and dances, much more than murals and socially-relevant films and certainly much more than spicy, flavorful food. It crosses borders, even oceans to shape and redefine perspectives. Latino culture is created and evolving everyday, in every nook and cranny, in back rooms, in cafes, living rooms and open spaces. It takes bold risks and makes daring statements like blending contrasting sounds of electronica with traditional rhythms, or mixes and mingles art forms, like avant-garde theater with the joys of preparing a tamale. It can be heard in the voice of a Spanish-born daughter of African immigrants who sings the songs of a Costa-Rican born queen of rancheras. Latino culture permeates all aspects of our contemporary lives in unique, traditional, unexpected and sometimes unnoticed ways. Café Magazine has celebrated, since day one, Latino culture in all its manifestations. And we have worked diligently to shed light on those unknown or ignored aspects and people of our community and culture. But 84 pages, served up on a bi-monthly basis, have never been enough to explore and celebrate our multifaceted cultural expressions. Which is why, in the last six months, we have dedicated more time to covering our rich heritage through original online content. We will continue to explore what is shaping and defining the contemporary Latino lifestyle and invite you to join us in doing so for times to come. Happy second anniversary, Cafeteros!
Publisher Julián G. Posada Editorial
Café media Advisors
Editor-in-Chief Managing Editor Assistant Managing Editor Copy Editors
Alejandro Riera marilia t. gutiérrez maura wall hernández Marie Joyce Garcia Chris MALCOLM Daniela garcia Proofreader Vera Napoleon Staff Writer/Cafecito Producer CHRISTINA E. RODRíGUEZ Editorial Interns arianna hermosillo rachel metea
Martin Castro, lon chow, George De Lama, david hutchinson, IAN LARKIN, carlos santiago, david selby, peter wilkins EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
design
Art Director Graphic Designer Graphic Designer
alberto treviÑo judd ortiz vera napoleon
ADMINISTRATION john wollney chrissy koob brandy scott
lilia alvarado, Norma Magaña, marina claudio, m.d.
Chief Operating Officer Financial Analyst Administrative Assistant
With gratitude Daniel Bleier, Michael Bleier, martin cabrera, WILLIAM GRAHAM, david hutchinson, ted j. hong, michael keiser, ROBERT KING,
marketing
VP, Interactive MITCHell POSADA Interactive Intern Bella Sunho You VP, Marketing Gina Santana Marketing Coordinator freddie baez Marketing & PR Liaison diana ramirez gardenia rangel
sales isis Gonzalez GINA TINOCO roxana rivas susan willey michelle droira sramek
West Coast Sales Manager Southeast Sales Manager Northeast Sales Manager Midwest Sales Manager Chicago Sales Manager
Acknowledgements
Arte y Vida Chicago amor montes de oca Diageo diana fujimura e-Hispanics.com jose jara Geoscape Arthur Rockwell Lopez CPA enrique lopez Mass Hispanic monica duran
odette hasburn
NBC 5 Chicago chris peÑA
STEVE BRYANT
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Elia l. Alamillo, carlos anguita, abel arciniega, marta garcia, katie gipple, jillian sipkins, karthik sudhir, melissa valladares
Henry Kingwill, Pete kingwill, martin koldyke, Ian Larkin, michael locKe, William Mckenna, thomas mcdonald, SUSAN SNOWDEN
contributing writers randi belisomo hernández, chris chavez weitman, fernando espuelas , carrie ferguson weir, daniela garcia, alicia ontiveros, belia ortega, michael puente, isabel resendiz, marla seidell
Aztec America Martha Tovias Crowe Horwath richard cerda Gomez Consulting Angel Gomez The LDI Group Brian SOrge Lutheran Child & Family Services phillip jimenez Mesirow Financial Juan Carlos Avila National Louis University Ana Maria Soto UIC LARES Program Leonard Ramírez U.S. Dept. of Education Andrea Saenz
MARCUS RILEY NSHMBA Anyel Gornik Pivotal Productions shannon downey PNC Bruce Lines Ratio Nation rick morales Swank Society sean alvarez Vocalo LLOYD KING ellogg Graduate School of Management professor alice tybout K Special Thanks michael Gray, andres levin, angelica mariscal, DAVE TAN
stock photos STOCK.XCHNG, ISTOCKPHOTO
Winner of the folio magazine 2009 Bronze Eddie award in the consumer category (news/commentary/general interest/full issue)
CAFé MEDIA llc office
777 W. Chicago Avenue, Suite 4000, Chicago, IL 60654 General: (312) 283-7030 Editorial: (312) 283-7027 Fax: (312) 222-2297
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Yes, we need coaches (“Goal Oriented,” August/September 2010)! How about some resources for bright young people looking to start university? High schools aren’t providing much help. Seventeen-year-olds have to do it themselves. The world thinks that Hispanics have a free ride; they don’t, D e s e r t even when they are excellent students. hOPE Sara Sollena, Rochester, MI Posted on cafemagazine.com No 12 August
2010 | september
azine styLe Mag Latino Life
, hs delivers food No more Deat to immigrants water and hope desert who cross the
This is a great post and article. But a big challenge is to change the paradigm that many people have about getting help. The school system teaches people to do it on your own and not to cheat. That is why we develop that mentality. But if you look around, the most successful [people] have teams and teams have coaches. The point is to switch your mindset and get all the best players you can on your team and get the best coaches that know how to get you to your championship, whatever that championship might be to you. Alberto Covarrubias, Chicago Posted on cafemagazine.com
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This is an outstanding article (“Unfinished Business,” August/ September 2010) that brings to reality that there continues to be a need to promote education to our Latino youth. I do believe that much of this stems from the family and home culture. It is important to introduce the family to the “American” educational system so that they become a great source of support to their children. I admire Maureen Tillman, the pre-college counselor (interviewed in the story) that went the extra mile to hold a workshop for parents. As a school social worker, I would love to one day be able to take on a role like this and begin to empower these parents to take action. Thelma Rodriguez, Chicago Posted on cafemagazine.com After reading the article, I was sad to hear that our kids are dropping out of school, but even more sad that we, as parents, still think that a high school diploma is enough to go on in life. We need more resources to educate us, the parents, on how to send our kids to college and the importance of a good education. María C. Villagran, Chicago Posted on cafemagazine.com This is an excellent article, yet a very sad one. It hits me on a very personal level as I have worked with Hispanic youth, mostly
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As always, thank you for your comments and suggestions. We look forward to each and every one: the good, the bad and the ugly. So keep them coming. The more we hear from you, the more we’ll strive to improve your Café experience. THE BEST TEAMS
| July 2010
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immigrants, for a long time and this is their reality. I think it is time that we all continue to put our granito de arena to help in any way we can. I will be mentoring a high school student that will be working, as part of a work-study program, in our company for the year, once a week. I hope to be a good mentor and someone who can impact his life in a positive way. I would hope many of us will do the same, wherever we are. Joel Sanchez, Chicago Posted on cafemagazine.com
5:13 PM
highereduCation artdepartment
It is fitting that I ran into this article just as I finished reading the book, “Con Respeto: Bridging the Distance Between Culturally Diverse Families and Schools” [Teachers College Press, Unfinished bUsiness 1996] by Guadalupe Valdés. Valdés does an excellent job of following 10 Mexican immigrant families for three years. The book examines why Mexican-origin children are failing in the American school system. Is it because our culture does not equip us with the proper tools or because the American school system is not aware of the (Mexican) immigrant experience and does not support our education with the proper resources? Will the two ever see eye to eye unless assimilation or acculturation occurs? As a first generation Mexican-Americana who has trudged through the American school system, I can say first hand that the proper support for Latinos needs to consider the populations’ experience, be more widespread and easily accessible. There are so many challenges that come from being bi-cultural: feeling the need to stay loyal to your latinidad, yet you have to “talk the talk” to play the mainstream game. Marcela Gómez Sixto, Chicago Posted on cafemagazine.com
College aspirations compete with cultural and economic pressures among Latino students
Although he wanted to start a career, Pablo Rejas had to drop out of Richard J. Daley College to help provide for his mother and siblings.
words
Christina Galoozis photo abel arciniega
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MORE FROM L.A., PLEASE!
I have always enjoyed your magazine, I only wished it had consistent content specific to the Los Angeles Hispanic community. Great mention about Olvera Street (“The Future of Tradition,” August/September 2010), a Los Angeles historical landmark that has been a large part of most Latinos’ lives growing up in L.A. Being an L.A. native, Sundays at Placita Olvera were a common place growing up. Jerry Gonzalez, Valencia, Los Angeles Posted on cafemagazine.com
7/20/10 3:26 PM
TRavel the country without saying goodbye. Get a National Plan with free roaming and connect to your loved ones no matter where you are.
“Celebrating Diversity in Social Media”
Blogalicious Weekend Conference celebrates the diversity of women of all ethnicities in social media. Over the course of 3 event-filled days, savvy, influential and talented women bloggers will ignite a sense of unity within the multicultural blogging community, as well as educate marketers on the importance of our demographic in today’s marketplace, all while networking, building relationships, and promoting inspiration and success for each other.
EVENTS INCLUDE:
SPONSORS INCLUDE:
Beauty Bash
My Blog Spark • Que Rica Vida
Movie Screenings
Feeding Dreams • Yoplait Light
Exhibitor Hall
McDonald’s • Kellogg’s
Child Care
Buick GMC and Onstar
Parties... and more!
... and more!
Oct 8-10, 2010
The Ritz Carlton, South Beach www.blogaliciousweekend.com
caféEspresso
Somos
Omar Acosta
32, Creative Director, omaracosta.tv Santa Monica, CA photo
Melissa Valladares
Your company in one sentence. Omar Acosta is a company that aims to create lasting marks upon the otherwise undisturbed surface of the world by infusing quality production into the epidermis of popular culture. A fun and interesting project you worked on? The MTV Video Music Awards were fun. You get a bunch of the most talented people to work with and throw around ideas. You see it come to fruition. I’m happy to be able to do projects with different clients. Each project is fun because it’s an interesting challenge. Which do you prefer to be called: Hispanic or Latino? I don’t pay attention to that. It’s so petty. There are bigger issues. I wouldn’t want to label myself as anything [but] I’m definitely proud to be Puerto Rican. Where is your favorite place to live? New York, for sure. It’s home. It’s my heart. I have canvases and paintings [of the city] all around my house. I love New York. What do you miss most about New York? Being able to get up at 3 or 4 a.m. and getting something to eat or go get a drink. Accessibility. The thing about New York is that you can have anything for anybody. Where’s your favorite place outside the [continental] United States? Culebra, Puerto Rico. It’s beautiful out there. Then the obvious answer — Paris. Do you collect anything? I collect antique cameras. I like to take them apart and put them back together. I like to see how they work; they’re very intriguing to me. How do you take your Café? Dos de café y tres de azúcar. For more of this interview, visit cafemagazine.com
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¿Sabias QUE? TAKE ME TO THE RIVER
It’s no surprise that Aterciopelados has been honored by the United Nations for speaking out against violence in Colombia, as philanthropy is nothing new to the band. The release of Aterciopelados’ 2008 album “Rio,” coincided with a proposed Colombian constitutional referendum that declared access to water as a basic human right. | photos alberto treviño |
sources: www.santafenewmexican.com, nielsen media research, markbacon.net, the rolex mentor and protégé arts initiative, www.soundsandcolors.com, www.nytimes.com, www.rodgab.com
TO THE TRENCHES!
JINGLE BELLS
Ozomatli, whose band members met through the Peace and Justice Center of Los Angeles, was originally formed to play during a local labor protest. Their name comes from a monkey deity on the Aztec calendar that is also known as a god of dance, fire, the new harvest and music. Well-known for their commitment to social justice and left-wing grassroots politics, Ozomatli were made cultural ambassadors by the U.S. government in 2008 and have since traveled to Nepal, India, Jordan and various other countries promoting good will through
With a record collection containing over 45,000 vinyl albums, it’s hard to deny Camilo Lara of the Mexican Institute of Sound is a music lover. With his day job as vice president of EMI Mexico, Lara spends his nights creating tracks from a mixture of electonica and samples from classic Mexican music. He’s also famous among his friends for putting together an annual Christmas compilation including his favorite songs of the year as well as a few early tracks from the Mexican Institute of Sound.
CAN YOU KEEP A SECRET?
When Rodrigo y Gabriela met as teenagers in Mexico City, Rodrigo was playing drums in a thrash metal band called Castlow. To this day, Rodrigo has never revealed to Gabriela what “Castlow,” which was also the band’s code word, meant. As soon as Gabriela joined the band on guitar, the band’s name was changed to Tierra Ácida. 12 Café OCTOBER I NOVEMBER 2010
CLOSE BUT NO CIGAR
The bassist, producer and founder of Bomba Estéreo, Simon Mejia, was a finalist for a year-long mentorship program with producer Brian Eno. The Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative partners established artistic masters within the music, film and theater realms with up-and-coming artists for a year of creative collaborations. Australian composer, producer and musician Ben Frost was awarded the mentorship.
BATTLE OF THE TITANS
Mexico and Brazil are running neck and neck for the most Latin Grammy Awards won since the beginning of the program. As of 2009, Mexico is in the lead with 98 awards while Brazil has 97. Will Brazil outrun them this year? Find out November 11, when the Latin Grammy Awards ceremony will be broadcast live from Las Vegas in Univision.
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Shakira
the Buzz DANCING THE ‘WAKA WAKA’ Can you move your hips like Shakira? If so, you may have the chance to prove your hip-shaking skills when the Colombian singer-songwriter’s “Tour of Earthly Delights” lands at an amphitheatre or arena near you. In a recent interview with online music website Contactmusic, Shakira revealed that she’s looking for ways to make her show more interactive. That might include bringing some of her fans onstage. She may even offer a sneak peek of her new Spanish-language album “Sale El Sol,” due out Nov. 2. Shakira will be performing at L.A.’s Staples Center Oct. 23 and at Chicago’s Allstate Arena Oct. 29. www.ticketmaster.com
HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE
Spanked with a chancla? We feel you. web magazine e-newsletter events social media
cafemagazine.com
The mad scientists behind Calle 13 – René Pérez Joglar and Eduardo Cabra Martínez, aka Residente and Visitante, respectively – have been working on their latest explosive creation. Unlike C4, this new offspring won’t be blowing up bridges or buildings, but all five human senses. Calle 13 already detonated the first charge with the music video for “Calma Pueblo,” featuring The Mars Volta’s Omar Rodríguez López, where they take on the Catholic Church and Puerto Rico’s political elite, among other institutions. And they just planted a second charge that could explode in any second: a music video for “Baile de los Pobres,” directed by Diego Luna. The full shipment of musical dynamite, labeled “Detonación C-13,” comes out Oct. 19. www.lacalle13.com
THE BEGINNING OF THE END Even though they may have read it two, three or four times by now, Harry Potter fans have been anxiously waiting for the release of the big screen adaptation of the seventh and final chapter in the series, “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hollows” (Nov. 19). Well, actually the first half of the novel — given its length, the producers and Warner Bros., with J.K. Rowling’s consent, decided to split the film in two. Which means we’ll have to wait about eight months for the final showdown between Harry Potter and Voldemort. Part one will be shown in its original regular two-dimensional format and in 3-D. harrypotter.warnerbros.com
“Harry Potter”
14 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
Get the Shot Help Chicago fight the flu, get the flu shot. The 2010-2011 flu vaccine includes protection against H1N1 and other forms of influenza. If you live in Chicago and don’t have a doctor, call 311 or contact the Chicago Department of Public Health.
Call 311 or visit www.cityofchicago.org/Flu City of Chicago • Richard M. Daley, Mayor Chicago Department of Public Health • Bechara Choucair, M.D. , Commissioner
caféEspresso | upgrade
Fit for a queen The Nordstrom Fits America event offers complimentary bra fittings until December at local Nordstrom stores. For every bra sold, $1 is donated by Nordstrom and matched by participating brands to Susan G. Komen for the Cure. For an event near you, visit nordstrom.com.
No more bad hair days Solano presents the Power to Prevent 3200 hair dryer, featuring infrared heat that dries hair from the inside out and three temperature settings. Available online and at select beauty supply stores nationwide. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to Living Beyond Breast Cancer. www.solanopower.com, $159
Join the fight against breast cancer with a
touch of PINK October is National Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Here are some of our favorite products and initiatives that promote awareness or contribute a percentage of their earnings to a breast cancer organization.
Kitchen pink As a long-time supporter of breast cancer research, Cuisinart offers its Pink Series, an extensive line of kitchen appliances, including coffee makers, blenders, hand mixers, ice cream makers and more. Cuisinart donates 3 percent of each Pink product sale to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation. www.cuisinart.com, $29.95-$99.95 Lucky charms Pandora has created a jewelry line to promote breast cancer awareness, featuring two Pink Ribbon charms, as well as Lucerne charms and a pink leather bracelet. Charms are available in sterling silver and 14 karat gold. Pandora will donate 10 percent of the retail sales price to Susan G. Komen for the Cure. www.pandora.net, $30-$300 Race for the cure New Balance announced earlier this year a $1 million donation to Susan G. Komen for the Cure. Now they’ve launched the Lace Up for the Cure collection of running shoes, accessories and apparel, of which 5 percent of the suggested retail price will be donated to Komen. www.newbalance.com, $5-$149.99 Green luxury For the entire month of October, the organic beauty products company Bubalina will donate 25 percent of all sales from their Dolcetto line to Susan G. Komen for the Cure. Bubalina’s Dolcetto products are rich with nourishing certified organic ingredients. www.bubalinabeauty.com, $8-$60
16 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
CAFEESPRESSO
Back to the culture EL GUAPO
This just in: New arrivals in the U.S. are not generally welcomed with open arms. Benjamin Franklin initially opposed German immigrants because of fears that they would not assimilate. (He used the word “swarm” to describe their ominous arrival.) Soon after, to hear many earlier settlers tell it, Irish Catholics were also going to overrun the country, only to install the pope as king. The incoming Italians predictably became the next anti-immigrant target in the late 19th century and early 20th century, referred to in the press as a “herd of steerage slime.” The list goes on. Inexplicably, despite the lack of a welcome wagon, immigrants inevitably assimilate into the dominant culture. (Can you hear “The Star-Spangled Banner” playing oh-so-quietly in the background as everyone holds hands and shares a Coke?) Of course, as their ancestors’ experiences get smaller and smaller in the rearview mirror, the descendants of these immigrants take their rightful place as the aggressive shovelers of xenophobic sentiments. Yes, the U.S. is very much like a college fraternity – except instead of binge drinking and humiliation, it’s just humiliation that’s on tap. Then, mysteriously, retro-acculturation looms its ugly head. As groups become acculturated, there will be some sinvergüenzas who put down their lattes and hop into the cultural DeLorean in search of their roots – societal expectations of a quiet assimilation be damned. Latinos are no exception. These sinvergüenzas fall into several easy-to-identify categories:
18 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
Representing your Latino roots with a T-shirt?
The T-Shirts:
Who are they? Usually college-age, likely second- or third-generation suburban kids who become enamored with finding out about their roots … for about a week in the first semester. Motivation To wear a Che shirt on the quad, but not in the phony way others wear it. While these culprits can’t find their grandparents’ homeland on a map, they intend to make a significant political statement … with a Rage Against the Machine t-shirt. What they might say “This diamond-studded ‘Communism Rocks’ shirt was $495 at Macy’s. Isn’t it cute?” “We’re taking a road trip to Puerto Rico.” The Militants:
Who are they? Inherently angry. Fist-shakers. Perpetual scowlers. Motivation Eagerly looking for triggers to piss themselves off, they eventually find that the ethnic and racial ancestry they were estranged from is a potential gold mine. What they might say “No, stupid, it’s pronounced Brandón … it sounds kind of like cabrón.” “The neighbors are bitching about the lawn again? What, they think I’m a professional landscaper? Racist a-holes can climb over the weeds and kiss my ass.” [To H.R. rep] “Where in the goddamn
dress code are guayaberas and huaraches explicitly forbidden?” The Street Cred Seekers
Who are they? Usually white-collar and in desperate need of fear-inducing street cred. Motivation Watched “Cops” all their lives and bought into the idea that Latinos are scary, “urban” and are forever running around with their shirts off. They feel they need to reconnect with these roots in order to leverage that inherent intimidation in the boardroom or to scare the bully in the next cubicle. What they might say “Naw, man, that’s not how we collated in prison, yo.” “That’s not a birthmark, it’s my gang tattoo. Yes, it does look a lot like a mole, but that’s what makes it so sinister.” The Identity Seekers
Who are they? Grew up unaware of, or isolated from, their cultural ancestry. Motivation Seeking deeper meaning and better understanding of their own identity by reconnecting with their roots... blahblah-blah... yawn. They’re usually interested in mining for depth and knowledge. Usually. What they might say “First, I’m going to watch ‘Mi Familia.’ Then, I’m going to eat this burrito with the mild salsa. And finally, I’m going to take a siesta. My abuelita would be proud.”
Chances are Felipe will call, and Pedro, and Rafa, and Octavio too. Nielsen knows that Latinos make or receive an average of 14 cell phone calls per day, which is more than any other ethnic group.*
Nielsen listens to you because your preferences are important. As the world’s largest research company, we rely on people to voluntarily participate in our studies. Your participation: • tells us what you watch on TV, how you use your online and cell phone time, and where and how you buy your groceries • helps businesses offer the products and services you want If you’re asked to participate in a Nielsen study, please say yes.
You matter. ®
*Information is based on Nielsen estimates. To learn more about its methodologies, visit nielsen.com/latinos. © 2010 The Nielsen Company. All rights reserved.
nielsen.com/latinos
caféESPRESSO
Broken promises, big anger
Depressed economy, inaction on immigration, and history isn’t on Democrats’ side as midterm election nears words
Michael Puente
Gilbert Villegas Jr. says he’s happy he’s not holding onto political office these days. With the midterm elections closing in, Villegas says whether you’re a Democrat or Republican, a tidal wave of anti-incumbency is sweeping the nation, due in large part to the struggling economy. “It’s a bad time to be an incumbent for whoever is in charge right now,” says Villegas, associate director of the Chicago-based Hispanic American Construction Industry Association. “Whoever is in charge is going to get blamed for the bad economy.” 20 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
Villegas may be on to something. Even without heated issues like same-sex marriage, health care reform, the war in Afghanistan, immigration reform and the economy, midterm elections usually don’t turn out well for the sitting president or the incumbent party. Since World War II, no president has gained seats in his first midterm election in both chambers, with the exception of Franklin Delano Roosevelt and George W. Bush. On the other hand, some experts say, midterm elections often don’t have any significant impact
LAPLAZA
on subsequent presidential elections two years later. “Presidents whose parties have suffered major midterm losses – such as Harry Truman in 1946, Ronald Reagan in 1982 and Bill Clinton in 1994 – have gone on to win reelection easily two years later,” political science professors Alan Abramowitz and Norman Ornstein wrote in The Washington Post in August. “So even if Republicans make major gains in 2010, as is widely expected, it won’t tell us anything about what will happen in 2012.” In the U.S. House, recent polls suggest 35 to 45 seats could go the way of the GOP. Republicans, who lost the chamber in 2006, need to win 39 seats now held by Democrats to regain control. The news for Senate Democrats isn’t much better; their party will struggle to maintain its 10-seat majority in the upper chamber. Several polls leading up to the Nov. 2 general election indicate most Hispanic voters view the hot-button issue of immigration reform as the central issue. But Villegas bucks this trend. From his vantage point, joblessness is the key concern in this midterm election cycle. “It’s not 100 percent about immigration,” Villegas says. “It’s the economy. It’s access to jobs, the lack of construction opportunities.” As the nation’s unemployment rate hovers around 10 percent, Villegas says it’s double that for those working in construction. The U.S. Department of Labor puts the actual figure at slightly above 20 percent in June for those in the construction industry. The White House’s stimulus plan was supposed to help put construction workers back to work. Of the nearly $800 billion in the stimulus program, $230 billion is supposed to fund infrastructure projects. But so far, the government has paid out $66 billion for projects, according to The Wall Street Journal. “Had they used $300 billion for infrastructure, it would really have made an impact to put people back to work,” Villegas says. “Almost a year has gone by since the president pushed for the stimulus bill and there’s still double-digit unemployment.” THREAT OF A STAY-AT-HOME VOTE
Maria de Los Angeles Torres says the economy is part of the continuing immigration debate – a debate that isn’t playing well for Democrats or President Barack Obama. “I think immigration encompasses everything,” says Torres, director of the Latin American and Latino Studies Program at the University of Illinois at Chicago. “We’re not only talking about making sure that our families stay together, but also understanding that we’re living in a society that has a two-tiered economy that’s unsustainable.” In Obama’s run for the White House two years ago, Torres says Democrats relied heavily on new voters, including Latinos. But Latinos may opt to not cast a vote for either major political party. Among the reasons, Torres contends, are inaction on White House promises of immigration reform, as well as the Obama administration’s moves to deport up to 400,000 undocumented immigrants this year, a figure reported in July by The Washington Post, citing federal figures. That’s a 10 percent increase compared with the Bush administration in 2008.
However, despite the falling approval numbers for Obama, Torres says she does not believe this midterm election is a referendum on his policies. “There are a lot of local dynamics in these races … I do think, however, that Democrats are worried,” Torres says. “They’ve admitted that they think they are going to lose the House and Senate. With no control of Congress, will the president use his executive powers to rewrite the rules of deportation or parole Dream Act students?” Jose Arredondo believes Democrats have a huge problem on their hands when it comes to Hispanics. “I think some Hispanic Democrats are turning their back on the Democratic Party,” says Arredondo, professor of education and coordinator of multicultural education at Valparaiso University in northwest Indiana. “A lot of Latinos are being dissatisfied. Hispanics themselves are becoming more sophisticated voters. They are very disillusioned.” But at a time of growing displeasure among Hispanics, who overwhelmingly vote with the Democrat Party, Republicans are doing little to make themselves more appealing to Latino voters. Case in point: their overall support of the Arizona law, passed in April, that requires police enforcing other laws to investigate the immigration status of people they suspect are in the country illegally. “That’s not helping Republicans,” Arredondo says. “Republicans have a very horrible outlook on minorities.” ACTIVIST: GOP ‘POLARIZED’ LATINOS
Rudy Lopez, former national field director for the U.S. Hispanic Leadership Institute and the current deputy director of politics at the Center for Community Change in Washington, D.C., believes GOP support of the Arizona immigration law, known as SB 1070, will have lasting implications. “Republicans polarized a community, made them into a political football,” Lopez says. “That’s what they are doing to the immigrant Latino community.” Lopez was in Arizona in late August when Gov. Jan Brewer won the GOP primary. Brewer, who is considered by many to be the GOP’s “it-girl” for signing SB 1070, is up for re-election; she faces Democrat Terry Goddard, Arizona’s attorney general and the state’s chief opponent of the controversial immigration law, in November. “[Brewer] might win, but she won’t win by a landslide,” Lopez says. “The Latino community in Arizona is trying to send a message: try to scapegoat our community, that’s a losing strategy.” Meanwhile, voters this fall in other states, including Indiana, will consider immigration initiatives similar to Arizona’s immigration law. Recent polls indicate 65 percent of Americans support SB 1070; Lopez contends those numbers are misleading. “[People] approve the fact that somebody did something,” Lopez says. “There is an immigration problem. The system is broken. Because of a lack of leadership by Obama and the federal government to respond, people applaud that something was being done.” “November is really going to show people that it’s not a slam dunk to support this type of law, it’s not a political strategy and it’s not sound policy,” says Lopez. “In November, not only Latinos, but immigrants are going to make their voices known.” cafemagazine.com 21
caféESpresso | Voices
fight for the right The Latino community only has power if we use it
Fernando ESPUELAS
“Latinos can take a leap – and start to play the leadership role our numbers demand.”
22 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
This year is an inflection point for American Latinos. From Arizona to Utah, Nebraska and even Florida, cynical politicians have pointed to the growth of the Latino community as a “problem.” Yes, they are officially decrying illegal immigration, but scratch the surface and you find something more worrisome. Whether you look at the nefarious background of state Sen. Russell Pearce of Arizona – the backer of the now infamous SB 1070, with his widely documented ties to white supremacist groups – or the stridency of mainstream Republican Party leaders who are now demanding the repeal of the 14th Amendment of the Constitution in order to deny citizenship to Americans born to undocumented immigrants, you can see the rising tide of racism masquerading as “policy.” At the same time, Latinos, let’s face it: we’re our own worst enemies. For starters, according to the Pew Hispanic Center, Latinos are lousy at turning out to vote. In 2008, for example, while 66.1 percent of white voters participated in the election, and 65.2 percent of African-Americans did as well, Hispanic voters clocked in at a dismal 49.9 percent. In Los Angeles, NALEO estimates that there are some 700,000 Americans of Latino descent who haven’t even bothered to register to vote. For context, that is a population larger than that of whole states, such as Alaska, Wyoming or Vermont. Then there are our “leaders.” The Latino activist community in the United States is gigantic – more than 800 ostensibly non-profit Latino organizations claim to represent us and our interests. They are part of a giant media-activistpolitical complex that has usurped the traditional American political channels of action – like elections, campaign fundraising and strategic litigation – with a single-minded focus on strategies from Latin America. How many times are we told – by the radio comedians posing as community leaders, a Spanish-language establishment with often scant knowledge of the American political system, and a mediocre political class that is better at demagoguing issues than creating political change or governing – that we must hit the streets to march because we are not heard? Recently on my radio show, a top executive from a leading national Hispanic advocacy group admitted that the marches had been a “total fail-
ure,” that the activist community did not fully understand the American political system, but that “we’re learning.” In Chicago, U.S. Rep. Luis Gutierrez’s infinite capacity for drama and hyperbole has exposed the weakness of our political leadership. Gutierrez came to Los Angeles earlier this year to rally the activists and make a threat to the American political establishment. He said if comprehensive immigration reform was not passed by the November midterm elections, Latinos should not vote – for any party. I suppose that Gutierrez’s “strategy” can be called an innovation, if a bad one. Even a cursory reading of American history shows a centurieslong fight for the right to vote. So Gutierrez’s threat that Latinos would abandon both major parties in November’s election is not just bizarre, it flies in the face of American tradition. And it is, as a matter of strategy, incoherent. While one would think that an explosion in Latino election participation this November would be the most powerful signal to the political system – a signal that Hispanics are a superpower in American politics, and therefore cannot be ignored – the good congressman advocates the political equivalent of suicide. So we have a lot of work to do. While we wallow in the bitter attacks of the Arizona “show me your papers” crowd, we indulge in selfvictimization at the hands of the “activists” who tell us we’re weak and unheard, and are (for the moment) stuck with political leaders who seem clueless about the American political system. But there is something we can do. This November can be the beginning of a new path for Latinos. We can go from victimization to activation. Latinos can take a leap – and start to play the leadership role our numbers demand. But our numbers, and our growing contribution to the success of America, only translates into political power if we use it. So, let’s do the unexpected. This November, let’s vote in such huge numbers that we change history – both for our community and for our country. Fernando Espuelas is the host and managing editor of “Fernando Espuelas,” a talk show broadcast live Monday through Friday on Radio 1020 AM, in Los Angeles, and on www.espuelas.com. He is also a frequent blogger for cafemagazine.com.
caféESPRESSO
, s e & k s a c ug h
One rocking Chicago couple
cranks out the treats at Bleeding Heart Bakery words
24 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
Christina E. Rodríguez photos Marta García
GENTE
B
rightly colored walls shock your eyes and punk music revs your pulse as you walk in the door to find pastries of different colors, shapes and sizes – and all organic. Bleeding Heart Bakery, in Chicago’s Roscoe Village neighborhod, came from the blood, sweat and tears of owners Michelle and Vinny Garcia – two punk rockers with a vibrant outlook on satisfying your sweet tooth. Earlier this year, the couple published their first book, “Who You Callin’ Cupcake?” (Ulysses Press, 2010), a collection of 75 unbelievable cupcake recipes that come straight from Michelle and Vinny’s kitchen. The creations span everything from the basics to fun and fancythemed flavors such as mojito, Oaxacan mole, tres leches with roasted pineapple and bacon peanut butter. The Garcias have also participated in seven Food Network Extreme Cakes challenges and placed in five of them – including placing first in an extreme wedding cake challenge this year for a tattooed couple, a subject Michelle and Vinny know quite a bit about. Their story, though, was not one of love at first sight. When they met as teenagers in the streets of Chicago, Michelle, now 31, and Vinny, 34, hated each other. She was the adopted Polish girl from the South Side, living on her own at 13; Vinny was the straight-edge Mexican kid from the Ukrainian Village. A rebellious, mohawked Michelle got into a fight with her future husband on their first encounter and hated him until they met again years later. The two have grown a lot since meeting 20 years ago, says Vinny’s eldest sister, Patricia Carreno. “They both have the same goals and the same dreams,” she says. “And they support each other.” Although the couple has hit some rough spots during their relationship, it’s what they have learned together that makes all the difference to their family of four. While Michelle was used to being independent and taking care of herself, she has learned a lot from the Mexican-
American family she married into. “As Latinos, we’re always together and that was a big shock for her. She couldn’t understand why we were always hanging out together,” says Carreno. “At the beginning, it was a little bit awkward and different for her.”
Everyone, including Vinny, hated the name at first, Michelle says, but they eventually warmed up to it. Borrowing pages from their youth and the philosophy of punk rock, Michelle and Vinny took the positive aspects and made them a big part of their business.
Although Michelle admits to not being able to understand the importance of family, and even staying away from family gatherings at first, she has come to respect it and accept it.
“It’s not just about attitude, it’s about our philosophy of what we do and how we do it,” says Vinny. “For me, it’s been very anti-establishment and anti-moments, like going against the grain.”
“That’s [the] culture. And family is everything,” says Michelle. “I’m not used to counting on people I’m related to; those are the people who’ve failed me the most. It’s a different world.”
Alhough at first they encountered naysayers who didn’t think they would be able to succeed with a storefront bakery, the couple in 2009 opened a second location in suburban Oak Park. Bleeding Heart has been devoted to baking organic sweets since it opened, and in 2006 the company received an organic certification from the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Michelle and Vinny’s son, Gabriel, was born around the time that Michelle decided to start baking and selling her goods at the local farmers market. When the baby could no longer sit in a playpen while Michelle baked and Vinny worked nights as a bouncer, Carreno took care of her nephew. “I saw how hard they were working on making it,” she says. “My way of helping them out was taking care of the baby so they wouldn’t have to worry about it. It was the least I could do.” When their daughter, Sofi, came along, Carreno cared for her as well. It isn’t just Carreno that helps the couple out, but also Vinny’s brother, George. He lends a hand whenever he’s needed and never asks for anything in return, says Michelle. Having a warm and loving environment to raise their children was very important to the couple and, according to Michelle, the name of the bakery was one way to ensure that. “It’s a filter. You’re not going to walk in here if you’re offended by the name. If you’re one of our types of people, you’re going to understand what that means,” she explains. “I’m a very bold person and I knew that the name had to state our place. I fought people for that name because they just hated it and I didn’t care.”
“We use organic ingredients. I stick my neck out for other people, I use local farmers that others won’t give a chance to. Maybe they’re not certified organic, but they should be and it’s a political standpoint,” Michelle says. “It’s a standpoint within our lives and what we think of food.” Their children, Gabriel, 5, and Sofi, 4, have been growing up in a bicultural world, learning both English and Spanish and understanding the importance of family – something both Vinny and Michelle consider very important to their children’s lives. “I can’t even express how important it is to me that the kids know their culture and language,” says Michelle. “Without Vinny’s family, I don’t know where we would be.” IF YOU GO: 1955 West Belmont Avenue Chicago, IL (773) 327-6934 1010 North Boulevard Oak Park, IL (708) 358-0559 thebleedingheartbakery.com
cafemagazine.com 25
caféespresso
THE CUATRO TAKES
CENTER STAGE Chicago’s annual Cuatro Festival is a testament to the cultural impact of the iconic Puerto Rican instrument
26 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
words
Marla Seidell
photos
Abel Arciniega
“The cuatro is a symbol that conjures up a feeling and culture...”
artdepartment
- Carlos Hernandez (right) Orlando Rivera tunes his cuatro to practice for a performance.
When Marc Anthony sang “Preciosa” at Madison Square Garden in 2001, the crowd went wild, screaming, “Puerto Rico!” And Ricky Martin’s 2007 album “MTV Unplugged” was a hit for the same reason: the influence and presence of the Puerto Rican cuatro, a guitar-like instrument that resembles a violin with 10 strings, divided into five sets of two strings each. With a 400-year-old history, the cuatro has made its way into everything from traditional Puerto Rican music to pop. Like the mariachi is to Mexico and the bagpipes to Scotland, the cuatro is the national instrument of Puerto Rico and an icon of cultural pride. “[The] cuatro is a symbol that conjures up a feeling and culture,” notes Carlos Hernandez, founder and director of Chicago’s Puerto Rican Arts Alliance. “People are proud of it, and it’s now recognized by many musicians around the world.” The Puerto Rican cuatro has been celebrated in Chicago for 12 years, ever since the PRAA launched the first Cuatro Festival in 1998. The idea for the festival dovetailed with the mission of the alliance (founded a year earlier): to promote Puerto Rican culture on a broad, citywide scale, and to do it through music and education programs. “We always had a strong history of doing arts within a broader mission,” explains Hernandez. The blueprint for the festival came from brothers Orlando and David Rivera, music teachers and founders of Music Express, a Humboldt Park music school that has provided cuatro lessons to children and adults since 1990. PRAA formed a partnership with Music Express in 1998 that continues to this day. “We took on their idea of creating some sort of music event, and we began to do a cuatro festival on a larger scale,” says Hernandez. The first Cuatro Festival, held at Roberto Clemente High School, sold out to a modest audience of 657 people. Since
then, the festival has grown to be one of the city’s most prominent Latino and Puerto Rican events, reaching an audience of 1,500 annually. The 12th annual festival, to be held Nov. 20 at the Harris Theater in Millennium Park, will feature cuatro artists such as Prodigio Claudio, of Hoboken, N.J., and Alvin Medina, of Philadelphia, in addition to vocalists Yezenia Cruz, Voces Trujillanas and Elsie Medina. “The Chicago Cuatro Festival is the number one [event of its kind] in the world,” Claudio contends, despite the fact that he curates the Cuatro Festival in Orlando, where he is based. In 14 years, PRAA has developed into a small but well-oiled operation. Based in the Chicago Park District field house in the Humboldt Park neighborhood, the not-for-profit arts organization occupies the facility’s entire second-floor west wing. With six employees, the alliance is one of 24 non-profit groups in the park district that provides free programming, such as cuatro and Spanish guitar lessons, studio arts programs for teens and a community lecture series. PRAA has partnered with organizations throughout the Midwest to promote the cuatro. Every fall, the organization also reaches 10,000 students with its music education outreach program, The Cuatro Festival Road Show, which runs from October to November. This year’s road show travels to schools in and around Chicago with cuatristas such as Puerto Rican native Mariano “Juradito” Jurado, Chicago-based Fabian “Cuatro Urbano” Saldana and Grammy-nominated artist Quique Domenech. After two years of fundraising, the alliance has acquired a $2.5 million Logan Square firehouse for its new location. The firehouse, at 3002 Elbridge Ave., will be a second facility for PRAA. “We are … bringing our performing arts and exhibitions to the neighbor-
hood,” Hernandez says. He adds that the group’s mission doesn’t stop with Chicago: “We see ourselves as serving the broader Latino community of the entire Midwest.” But PRAA’s growth hasn’t come without difficulties. “It’s tough when you don’t have the money when you want it,” says Juan Mendez, the group’s board chairman. But Mendez, a board member for six years, says PRAA has always been diligent in pursuing its goals in a prudent manner, and that that has paid off. The economic downturn has forced cuts in operational and capital support; like any other non-profit, PRAA had to make serious management decisions. “We asked staff and vendors to do more with less,” Hernandez says. Even so, the alliance still plans to open its new center at the end of this fiscal year, operating two facilities with separate staffs. And nowhere is PRAA’s cultural impact more significant than the Cuatro Festival. The intergenerational Chicago Cuatro Orchestra, which opens the show, includes kids as wells as adults who have worked their way through the alliance’s programs. Founded and directed by Orlando Rivera in 1997, the orchestra highlights how PRAA’s cuatro classes have influenced not only Puerto Ricans, but also other Latinos. “The festival puts the Chicago Latino community in a world-premiere venue,” Hernandez says, “and showcases a world cosmopolitan city.” IF YOU GO 12th Annual Cuatro Festival When: Nov. 20, 3 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. Where: Harris Theater 205 E. Randolph Drive, Chicago Admission: $25-$75 Info: praachicago.org, harristheaterchicago.org
cafemagazine.com 27
11 -20, 20 9 1 y a Ohio · M , d n a l e Clev
Presented by the National Society of Hispanic MBAs, the Hispanic Summit is the chance for managers and executives to unite under one forum to collaborate, network and develop leadership skills. The NSHMBA Hispanic Summit comprises in‐depth sessions and a multitude of networking events.
Discover success! www.nshmba.org/hispanicsummit
caféFILTER
GETAHEAD
o t t e k c i t t s A Low-Co
t r a t S h a Fres Community colleges close to home help Latinos reach goals in a rough economy “I went from a jail cell to a commercial kitchen creating art every day,” says Elgin Community College culinary student Delfino Tapia.
words
Randi Belisomo Hernandez photo Elia Alamillo
cafemagazine.com 29
caféXXXXX | XXXXXXX caféfilter
“I always felt, in the back of my mind, that I really wanted to be a chef,” Tapia recalls. So, after a troubled past that included gunshot wounds, jail time and alcohol rehab, he has joined the increasing number of adults entering community college in hopes that an associate’s degree is part of the recipe for a new direction in a rough economy. Enrollment at community colleges across the country has swollen to record highs, as its affordability is attracting more and more adults either recently laid off or already in the midst of a career change. At Elgin Community College, Tapia will soon complete his associate’s degree in culinary management. Enrollment at ECC has been at record levels for the past two semesters, at close to 12,000 students per semester. The adult student population there – those 25 years of age or older – is the fastest growing segment of enrollees. Mary Perkins, ECC’s associate dean for enrollment management, says affordability is behind these trends. Classes cost $91 per credit hour. For the school’s fourth consecutive year, tuition has stayed stable despite the recession. That means a full semester’s worth of education would cost students around $1,300; at the University of Illinois at Chicago, tuition for a comparable class load costs more than $7,000. Perkins has seen an increasing number of high school students considering community colleges as their first choice simply because families can’t afford more than that. Location is also a factor, she says, especially among Hispanics. “In Latino families, the proximity of the college to one’s home is a big concern,” Perkins says. “Families want their sons and daughters to pursue educational opportunities close to home.” Tapia’s family couldn’t be happier with his decision to attend ECC. After getting involved in gang activities when his family moved to Cicero, he spent two years in prison for DWI, disorderly conduct and drug possession. Tapia even fell victim to gunfire by a rival gang. The bullet remains lodged in his chest today.
At Elgin Community College, Delfino Tapia not only concocts masterful dishes, but is also a member of the Phi Theta Kappa honor society.
D
elfino Tapia grew up cooking for his little sister in their family’s Pilsen home. Both of his parents worked two jobs, and if he didn’t cook, the kids wouldn’t eat. It was a matter of survival back then, but now the 29-year-old is switching on the stove once more. 30 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
“I got jumped plenty of times. I got the back of my head busted up. It looks like a piggy bank; you could fit a quarter in there,” Tapia says with a laugh, knowing he doesn’t fit the description of a typical college guy. But after a stint in rehab at Chicago’s Haymarket Center, he knew he needed a change. However, he was initially too timid to try college. “The big schools scared me. The term ‘college’ scared me,” Tapia says, noting he once thought only students from families with considerable financial resources could pursue education after high school. He says he “tested the waters” and began by pursuing a massage therapy certificate at the Illinois School of Health Careers. He
getahead
Enrollment at community colleges across the country has hit record highs. At Elgin Ccommunity College, enrollment has been at close to 12,000 students per semester for the past two semesters.
now works as a massage therapist while putting himself through ECC. But it hasn’t been easy. What he thought was his passion was problematic at first. In his first culinary arts class, he faced one crisis after another. “I didn’t know how to follow directions, I didn’t know how to measure correctly. Baking is a science, but who knew?” he says with a laugh. Three semesters later, Tapia not only concocts a masterful chocolate mole, but is now a member of the Phi Theta Kappa honor society with a GPA above 3.0. Sometimes his success shocks even him. “I went from a jail cell to a commercial kitchen creating art every day,” Tapia says.
“Every time we have a recession and the economy is bad, the best thing people can do is come to community college and tool up,” Rosas says. “It’s much better to be in a community college classroom than to be unemployed and at home.” Many seem to be buying that logic, too, as the L.A. district is at an all-time high in enrollment. It will serve more than 240,000 students over the coming school year – so many that some enrollees will be crowded out of classes. “We’re turning some away,” explains George Prather, chief of the district’s Office of Institutional Research and Information. “Students aren’t taking as many units as they’d like to take, and they can’t always take the classes they like.” But Manson is taking about $300 worth of classes this semester – what he calls “one helluva deal.”
‘ONE HELLUVA DEAL’ Jules Manson went from 12 years as a mechanical engineering contractor back to the community college classroom. The 47-year-old Tijuana native enrolled at Los Angeles Harbor College to study physics and mathematics after he was laid off two years ago.
He says work toward new degrees can only boost his chances as he looks for new work in the engineering field. “I never see going back to college as a waste of time,” Manson says. “I never want to stop learning.”
“I wasn’t going to just sit around and twiddle my thumbs,” Manson recalls of his unemployment. “While waiting for another job, why not just go back to school?”
As for Tapia, he never wants to stop applying his new knowledge. With his ECC education, he wants to open his own restaurant, and he hopes one day to own a resort. He says he has gone from being the joke and embarrassment of his family to being its pride.
And in the Los Angeles Community College District, almost everyone can afford the classroom. Each unit costs $26, the lowest rate in the country, according to Harbor College’s vice president of academic affairs, Luis Rosas.
“I’m doing things with my life,” he says, “instead of life doing things to me.”
cafemagazine.com 31
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Our dulce comes with
e c i p s d n re a
fi
words
The Latino taste for savory sweets is finding its way onto mainstream candy shelves
Chris Chavez Weitman photo alBerto Treviño
We love it spicy, sweet … and sometimes a little salty. We’re talking about flavor preferences for candy and sweets. Many of the flavors for all things dulce haven’t really caught on with the mainstream American market, though that may be changing. But to understand our fascination with candy, we need to go back – way back – to where the world’s obsession with all things sweet and decadent may have started. The Aztecs drank xocólatl, a thick mixture of cacao beans and tropical spices. Spanish conquistadors liked what they tasted and carried this exotic concoction back to King Carlos V, who fell in love with the beverage, especially after it was sugared, diluted and had some of the more eclectic spices re-
32 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
moved. He renamed it chocolate and pretty soon everyone in Europe was clamoring for it. The rest is sweet history. Some Latino candy and sweet flavors, like chocolate, have crossed the border because the flavor profile is familiar and acceptable to most Americans: sugary, buttery and mild. Dulce de leche, popular throughout Latin America, is one of the best examples. Originally served as a thick jam and created by slowly heating sweetened cow’s milk, this caramellike flavor can be found everywhere from Starbucks coffee to Girl Scout cookies to Häagen-Dazs ice cream. Even Jolly Time popcorn has a recipe for dulce de leche popcorn balls. Another sweet popular with Latinos that incorporates dulce de leche is teja. This
When it comes to Mexican candy, it’s not just the flavors that are strange, the presentation can be pretty out there, too.
dumpling-like confection originated in the city of Ica, Peru, and is filled with dulce de leche mixed with fruits or nuts, or sometimes both, and is coated with a thick creamy sugar shell or fondant. Tejas are traditionally wrapped in decorative paper and tied at the top like a small gift. Caramel-like cajeta is similar to dulce de leche, but it is made with goat’s milk instead of cow’s milk and is often thicker. Cajeta comes from Celaya, Mexico, and was named because of the small wooden boxes it was packaged in. Today you can find jars and squeeze-bottles of cajeta in most major grocery stores. Mexican mazapán is the Latino cousin of marzipan, but the difference between the two goes far beyond the á and i.
ConGusto
The Spaniards tried to grow almonds in the New World, but failed miserably, so they weren’t able to create the almondpaste delights taught to them by the Moors. So instead they used peanuts, which grew in abundance, and created their own version of marzipan which smells like peanut buttery cookie dough and tastes like peanut butter frosting. Mazapán is eaten as a candy, used to frost cakes or made into shapes like Day of the Dead skulls. Now, what about the hard-core stuff? You know, the Latino candy, most of it Mexican, that you see in bodegas, gas stations and in big-box stores. Those oddball, intense fruit and picante flavors, like tamarind, chamoy, sour orange, chile and salty dried fruit. These candies will burn your mouth, sometimes make your throat itch, but ultimately bring a huge guilty-pleasure smile to your face. It’s not just the flavors that are strange; the packaging is pretty out there as well. Take a look at these: Salsagheti: watermelon flavored straws that look like pasta and come with a packet of pouring tamarind sauce called Gusano. Pelón Pelo Rico: Sweet and sour chile and tamarind-flavored soft candy that’s pushed up through a small grate that makes it look like oozing worms. Cucharita Chica: A plastic spoon loaded with a tamarind-flavored, thick, sugary candy. Tamalitos: Chile-flavored, heavily sugared tamarind pulp wrapped in a tiny cornhusk to resemble a tamal. Crayón: A sweet and picante sugary goo dispensed through twisting the bottom of the container. Latino lollipops can also take your taste buds on a wild ride. The outside is often coated with chile powder and other flavors like lime, mango or tamarind. Beyond the firey taste, the hard candy inside is a comforting balance of sweet, familiar flavors like watermelon, cherry, strawberry or papaya.
From chile-infused chocolate bars to caramels using habanero peppers, boutique chocolate makers are particularly daring in their use of bold, fiery flavors.
STILL A NICHE FLAVOR Susan Fussell Whiteside, spokeswoman for the Washington-based National Confectioners Association, says she’s not so sure mainstream America is ready to play with the fire of hot, chile-flavored candy. “We’ve seen an increase in sugar confectionery flavored with chile, but typically from the Mexican or South American brands and less so from U.S. brands,” Whiteside says. “While we are likely to see increased consumption of chile-flavored candies, it’s probably going to remain a niche flavor with a loyal following, like cinnamon.” But luxury chocolate makers aren’t concerned. They’re confident that chocolate connoisseurs will love the bold, outthere flavor combinations. Whiteside concedes that may be true with products like Lindt’s Excellence Chili Dark Chocolate bar. Boutique chocolate makers are particularly daring. Chicago-based Vosges Chocolates makes two chile-infused chocolate bars: one with ancho and chipotle chiles and another with guajillo and pasilla chiles. Oregon-based Alma Chocolate creates caramels using habanero peppers and lavender.
stream market as chipotle-flavored items did in the mainstream savory market. Big candy makers seem to think so. Hershey’s, Brach’s and Nestlé all have production facilities in Mexico, where labor costs are cheaper. But these companies also have candy lines that dip into Latino flavor profiles. For example, Hershey’s makes Pelón Pelo Rico, the leading spicy candy brand in Mexico, while Nestlé makes the Carlos V (remember him?) chocolate candy bar. Even Wisconsin-based Jelly Belly Candy Company has distribution facilities in Latin America and now produces chile, mango, mojito and margarita jelly beans. Whiteside says the big trend now from companies like Mars, maker of Skittles, and Hershey’s, which manufactures Ice Breakers, are tropical fruit flavors. “There has even been an increase in strawberry flavors in candy,” she says. “We’ve seen more red candies labeled fresa in recent years.” So, what’s your pleasure? Hot, spicy, sweet, sour? Go ahead, indulge. But before you do, don’t forget Halloween (and another chance to load up on sweets) is right around the corner. Does somebody make chile-coated candy corn?
The big question is whether these flavors become as ubiquitous in the main-
cafemagazine.com 33
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Cynthia Cabrera surrounded by friends and family at Millenium Park, Chicago.
Cancer survival: No solitary feat
Family and friends were Cynthia’s biggest weapon against the disease words
Alicia Ontiveros photo Karthik Sudhir
Cabrera with her 20-year-old son, Enzo.
34 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
“You should invest in a wig,” he said matter-of-factly. Cynthia Cabrera stared back, motionless. It was the last thing she thought he would say, should say at a time like this. She’d undergone test after test in the past few weeks, each more invasive than the next. Finally she had the answer: She had breast cancer. But she wasn’t supposed to have breast cancer. She didn’t have a family history of the disease. She was healthy by every other measure, and future tests would prove she didn’t even have the gene associated with high breast cancer risk. She wasn’t supposed to have breast cancer. But she did. And so, Cabrera sat in her doctor’s office in shock, hoping for a word of encouragement from the person delivering the most devastating news of her life. Instead, “he just set off the wrong vibe,” she says. “He said very blatantly: ‘You have breast cancer.’ And then he left [the room].” Next came the tears. “It was like letting out all of that anxiety that had been bubbling [inside],” Cabrera remembers.
Familia
“You have to have help to maneuver the systems, ask questions, get the right treatment.”
— Cynthia Cabrera
LIFE BEFORE CANCER
Cynthia Cabrera is a school social worker. She’s a single mother of two boys: Enzo, 20, and Xé, 12. She’s a breast cancer survivor. That last title is no small feat considering that breast cancer is the leading cause of cancer death among Latinas. Cabrera’s story offers hope to other families struggling with the disease. But to fully understand her survival, you have to go back to the beginning – to life before cancer. Born in Puerto Rico, Cynthia and her family moved to Chicago when she was about 5 years old, and she’s lived in the city ever since. Talking about family is easy for Cabrera. Smiling comfortably, wearing a golden straw cowboy hat, she says she’s the third of four children; her sister still lives just two blocks away in their Humboldt Park neighborhood. For the first 39 years of her life, Cabrera was someone who’d always been healthy. “I grew up eating Chicago public school food, so I’ve got an iron stomach,” she jokes. But in the summer of 2008, Cabrera noticed something unusual. “I was doing a self-test. It was on my right breast and I guess it just felt like a ball that was harder,” Cabrera recalls. “I kind of just said, ‘I’m going to see a doctor and it’s going to be nothing.’” The details of her multiple visits to the doctor before the diagnosis are hard for her to remember, thanks in part to chemotherapy treatments that leave blind spots in Cabrera’s memory. But even if the details are fuzzy, one thing
is crystal clear. “If it wasn’t for the support of my friends,” she says, “I don’t think I would have gotten the care that I received.” Cabrera wasn’t alone when she received her cancer diagnosis. She brought two friends with her who could help navigate the truckload of information she received that day. “When [the doctor] walked out of the room, I just hugged Cindy, and we were just saying to her, ‘It’s going to be OK and you’re going to get through this,’” Gina Zuniga Baldwin, one of those friends, remembers. “I was in shock, too, but I internalized it to maintain my control and composure and go into survival mode [for Cabrera].” Survival mode meant asking questions. When the doctor returned to the room, Baldwin started gathering as much information as she could about what Cabrera would have to do next to beat the cancer. Before they left, Cabrera and her friends also requested a referral to a female doctor who specializes in breast cancer treatment. Cabrera was taking control of her cancer. “You have to be invested in your health,” she says. “You have to be an advocate for yourself. You have to have help to maneuver the systems, ask questions, get the right treatment.” Cabrera’s mother, Francisca, had moved back to Puerto Rico. But when she heard her daughter’s news, she dropped her life there to be by Cabrera’s side in Chicago. “My mom is the glue that holds us together,” Cabrera says proudly. When Cabrera modified her diet to exclude meat and other processed foods, her mother relied on their Puerto Rican heritage
to nourish her daughter. She made viandas recipes, hearty, cooked vegetables with potatoes, rice and beans. “We would grow wheatgrass on the front porch,” Cabrera recalls. “I say we, but she really did all the work.” But having Mom around 24-7 proved difficult, too. There were moments when Cabrera says she felt her mother was trying to take too much control over her life – like the time Francisca gave her daughter, then 39 years old, a curfew. “That’s the way I treated her, like she was 10, 11 years old,” Francisca admits. “Most of the time the Latino culture is overprotective of the kids. Sometimes it’s good, sometimes it’s not.” TREATMENT AND SUPPORT
When Cynthia met her new doctor, it was a family affair. With her older son, sister and friends in tow, she hoped to meet someone who would be supportive and encouraging, as opposed to the doctor who so callously delivered news of her cancer a few weeks earlier. “[The doctor] was incredible to the very end,” Cabrera says, noting the physician reviewed “breast cancer 101” with them. “She came and she showed [us] the mammogram.” After carefully considering several treatment options, Cabrera elected to have a double mastectomy and reconstructive breast surgery. Chemo and radiation also would be part of her treatment plan. But medical treatment is only part of the solution. Many breast cancer patients seek emotional healing as well. cafemagazine.com 35
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Cabrera and her mother turned to Gilda’s Club for help. It’s a national nonprofit organization providing social and emotional relief for cancer patients and their family and friends coping with the disease. It was founded in honor of Gilda Radner, the comedian and original “Saturday Night Live” cast member who died of ovarian cancer in 1989. “When cancer happens it happens to the whole family,” says Liz Ferrigno, program director at Gilda’s Club Chicago. “When you’re one of those family members, you feel the stress. You feel the fear, too.” The Chicago chapter provides free social events for members, including programs from yoga classes to small support groups. It also develops programming specifically for Latino families. Ferrigno says when Latino families began to talk about managing diabetes and cancer at the same time, Gilda’s Club Chicago brought in a speaker to address the issue. For the Cabreras, Gilda’s Club brought relief during the surgeries and grueling chemo treatments. It took their minds off the cancer that otherwise consumed them.
FINDING A NEW NORMAL
Eyes closed and head bowed, Cabrera chants a morning prayer. Her bright blond hair sticks out in a crowd of the faithful at the Soka Gakkai International Cultural Center in Chicago’s South Loop. It’s August 2010, just over a week since her final reconstructive surgery and the straps from her bandages are barely visible beneath her red summer dress. Although Cabrera doesn’t fully subscribe to any single religion, she says adopting a Buddhist prayer practice has helped her keep up her spiritual strength over the past year. With cancer, “anything that you thought was very secure in your life – it just shakes it up,” she says. “You have to hold on to whatever keeps you grounded, whatever keeps you moving forward in this whole process.” Her advice to those struggling with cancer is “to ask questions, to research, to pay attention to your body.” At 40 years old, Cabrera looks forward to slowing down, to spending more time with her kids, to finding a new sense of
THREE TIPS
1
JUST LISTEN Resist the urge to give unsolicited advice. Being a supportive listener can be far more helpful in allowing someone coping with cancer to relieve pent-up stress.
2
FIND SPECIFIC WAYS TO HELP Often friends and family make a general offer to help out their loved one, making it hard for the cancer patient to feel comfortable asking for help when they need it. Offer to do something specific, like picking up the kids from school or bringing over dinner on the weekends.
3
TAKE CARE OF YOURSELF Being a caregiver can be stressful. Make sure you’re getting enough sleep and the right nutrition and emotional care to continue helping your loved one. Source: Liz Ferrigno of Gilda’s Club Chicago
normal as a cancer survivor. “Having cancer is a life-changing experience,” she says. “You can’t go back and change the past, so you better just try to make a difference in the future – and make a positive one.”
Special Advertising Section
Nourishing the community The Jewel-Osco grocery store started as a humble door-todoor coffee delivery service in 1899. The company has grown significantly since then; it now boasts 182 retail stores across the Midwest. In addition to providing bread, fruit and other staples, Jewel also is delivering valuable services and educational programs to Hispanic communities in the Midwest. Miguel Alba, community relations and government affairs manager for Jewel-Osco and Cub Foods, heads up a number of outreach programs looking to help the members of Chicago’s Hispanic community. These efforts seek to educate customers about proper nutrition, provide culinary students with grants, feed the hungry, and celebrate the community’s significant cultural contributions to the Windy City — furthering Jewel’s commitment to give back to its customers. “These programs are aligned with our community partnership strategy of supporting programs and projects that are based on hunger relief, nutrition education and environmental stewardship,” says Alba. “Jewel-Osco has a commitment with the communities it serves and we take that commitment seriously. We have developed programs across Hispanic, Polish, and African American markets. This agenda helps build stronger and stable communities which, in turn, provide the human capital for businesses to succeed.” Establishing partnerships with a number of local food banks, educational institutions and service agencies has enabled the company to form a bond with the Hispanic community and connect with its customers. “Jewel-Osco has relationships with many organizations,” says Alba. “In particular, because of our commitment to hunger relief, we enjoy a great working relationship with all of Chicago’s metropolitan food banks, including the Greater Chicago Food Depository, the Northern Illinois Food Bank, and the Food Bank of Northwest Indiana. We’ve created new programs in partnership with these organizations designed to help agencies in the field of hunger relief.” During September’s Hunger Action Month, Jewel raises food and cash donations to help five food banks in its service area. Local TV station Fox Chicago provides live coverage every Thursday morning at a different Jewel-Osco store during the month, highlighting the need to drive awareness and donations. According to Alba, last year’s event raised more than $2 million.
In addition, Alba created Un Día Para Compartir two years ago. The program is geared toward helping local Hispanic families in need share in the celebration of Thanksgiving. “Last year, we provided 2,400 turkey meals to over 600 families across 6 different not-for-profit agencies,” he says. “It was well received by the community groups we partnered with and the media that covered the effort.” A total of 100 families from Erie Neighborhood House received turkey meals during the event; the remaining 500 were distributed through five local non-profit organizations. Another Jewel-Osco initiative is Sabor de la Herencia Hispana, a month-long celebration of Hispanic heritage. The event offers up a calendar spiced with culinary events showcasing products from Hispanic vendors, authentic Latin American recipes and the talents of local chefs. “We partner with the culinary students at St. Augustine College, who prepare numerous sampling dishes, give away grants to area groups, and name the Hispanic vendor of the year,” says Alba. “The event draws key community and civic leaders, as well as the vendor industry.” With the economy continuing to challenge Hispanic families in the Midwest, it’s likely that the need for food banks and other such services will continue. Fortunately, Alba says, Jewel-Osco plans to continue its current efforts, and possibly launch others. “Jewel-Osco is a leader in its industry,” says Alba. “I’m sure you will see new initiatives and programs in the future.” Now, teaming with Kimberly-Clark’s Scott brand, Jewel-Osco is launching a campaign for the Bien Hecho Awards – a search for unsung heroes in the Hispanic community to recognize outstanding persons for going above and beyond in their communities.
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Culture
? es l a m a t e l i Mob spin arros put a strange Tamalli Space Ch can cuisine on traditional Mexi
words
Maura Wall Hernandez
photos
Jillian Sipkins Treviño and alBerto
| photo alberto treviño |
caféGRANDE
cafemagazine.com 39
caféGRANDE
L
anding on planet Earth 200 years after Mexican independence and 100 years after the Mexican revolution, there are some hot new tamales in town – and they’re not exactly what you’d expect. Inspired by Mexico’s avant-garde art movement known as stridentism and Mexican wrestling sci-fi films, a masked chef and his team of space super heroes have created a non-traditional twist on two very traditional staples of pre-Hispanic cuisine: tamales and mole. Chef Raúl Arreola and his three partners are all alums of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill and Topolobampo restaurants, of varying talents in the kitchen and behind the bar. They met while working there in the 1990s. Arreola, Omar Ureña and Manny Hernández are all originally from Mexico City and the fourth partner, Pepé Balanzar, is originally from Acapulco. The Tamalli Space Charros, as they call themselves, all agree that working for Bayless gave them not only the knowl-
What makes them different from all the other former Bayless staffers who’ve gone out for themselves after leaving what some of them refer to as Rick’s culinary university, is that they’re incorporating performance art, technology and, for some, a history lesson into their business plans.
Beyond the fact that all four of the Space Charros live in Chicago, the Windy City has long been connected to the stridentist movement. In fact, explains Ureña, stridentists such as multidisciplinary artist Luis Quintanilla and brothers Silvestre and Fermín Revueltas (a composer/ musician and a painter, respectively) spent time in Chicago, which influenced some of the ideas they brought back to Mexico City during that time.
As the story goes, the Aztlán Cardinal (aka Omar Ureña) was sent on a mission from his home planet of Stridenturn to find the best tamales in the universe. After searching high and low throughout the galaxy, he discovers tamal treasure in the Mexican Hat bunker on Planet Space Hat. The Cardinal filled his spaceship with the tamales and headed for Earth to share the wonders of the traditional Mexican delicacy with its people. Thus, the Tamalli Space Charros entered Chicago’s atmosphere and provided tamales for all to enjoy.
According to “The Avant-Garde and Cultural Change in the 1920s: The Stridentist Movement in Mexico,” by Elissa Rashkin (Lexington Books, 2009), stridentism “challenged political and intellectual complacency; it rejected academic conservatism, celebrated modernity and technological novelties such as the radio, cinema and the airplane, and sought to transform not only written and visual language, but also everyday life through the creation of new aesthetic spaces and new approaches to the urban environment.” The movement,
edge of how the business works, but also the itch to start their own ventures.
“The main focus of the concept is Raúl [Arreola’s] food because he’s an expert working with moles...” — Omar Ureña (right)
The chef and the luchador. Raúl Arreola, left, and Omar Ureña explain the concept behind Tamalli Space Charros, their new culinary venture. | photo alberto treviño |
40 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
Culture
founded by Manuel Maples Arce, also attracted famous artists, musicians, writers, photographers and the like, such as Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, Pablo Neruda, Jorge Luis Borges and Tina Modotti, among others. “The main focus of the concept is Raúl’s food because he’s an expert working with moles,” says Ureña. The traditional symbol of mole in Mexican cuisine added to the futuristic ideas of the stridentist movement is what makes the group so interesting. Soon after their initial launch this August, the Tamalli Space Charros began selling their wares at local street festivals and through catering, and incorporating performance art in the delivery. Eventually, they say, they’d like to expand to do stridentist dinner parties, at which the Aztlan Cardinal will perform and read stridentist poetry. Dressing up in lucha libre masks, huge sombreros and colorful football gear with a cape and custom helmet including feather and beadwork attachments is not just for fun. Though he may look silly, the number 23 on the front of the Aztlán Cardinal’s football jersey actually stands for the 23 ingredients in Arreola’s Oaxacan black mole.
The concept of Tamalli Space Charros combines three languages that are very important to Mexican cuisine, according to the kitchen cowboys: the ancient Aztec language of Nahuatl, Spanish and English. “We are immersed in those three languages – let’s remember that [the word] ‘chocolate’ comes from the Nahuatl word ‘xocolatl,’” Ureña adds. “Phonetically, it sounds the same; Tamalli in Nahuatl, tamale in English and [tamal in] Spanish.” And the mixture of the old language with the new is just one key element in what makes the cuisine connected to both past and present. THE HOLY TRINITY When the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) recently declared that Mexico in 2010 would receive recognition of its cuisine as an intangible cultural patrimony after more than a decade of applying under various means to have the national cuisine recognized, many were overjoyed, including the Tamalli Space Charros gang. The holy trinity of Mexican cuisine – corn, beans and chiles – dates back to pre-Hispanic times and cultures such as the Mayans and Aztecs. Though each region of the country adds its own spin to the preparation, the basic elements of most traditional recipes are the same no matter where you go, Arreola says.
| photo alberto treviño |
Though traditional Mexican food has all the elements to be considered international high-level cuisine, unfortunately only parts of the cuisine are familiar to most people, due in part to Americanized Mexican fast food. The Space Charros say they have high hopes that the UNESCO designation will not only generate an interest in eating things like tamales and mole, but also create a resurgence of interest in learning the cuisine’s traditional recipes and cooking methods.
That’s where the mobile element of Tamalli Space Charros fits in. Tamales aren’t just the fare served from a cooler or street stand, though many people have become familiar with them that way. The Space Charros are planning to take their tamales and performance art to the streets with a food truck. Now that there are food trucks of varying cuisines and options popping up all over the city, it’s perfect timing for a mobile tamalería, they say. “It’s taken longer than I think everybody’s expected, but we know that Chicago is one of the best destinations in the country for food. We know the laws here try to offer the best for the restaurants, which we completely understand, but I think Chicago also has a lot to offer in terms of food trucks. It’s big in Portland and New York and L.A., but I think Chicago definitely needs more food trucks,” says Ureña. And it’s not something new – street food has been around for a long time in Chicago. In fact, say Arreola and Ureña, they’ve seen Chicagoans from different parts of the city selling tamales late into the night and early in the morning – out of coolers, curbside, from carts – ever since they arrived in Chicago more than a decade ago. The Space Charros say they believe Chicago’s food truck ordinance, which as of September of this year does not allow on-site food preparation to take place inside a truck, has enough support in the food community to change – and hopefully soon thanks to a number of chefs and foodies demanding that City Hall see the desire for more food trucks. Especially during rough economic times when many can’t afford to eat out much, food trucks can provide another option for both chefs who can’t afford the overhead of their own restaurant and customers who are looking for quality cheap eats.
cafemagazine.com 41
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The Tamalli Space Charros take their offerings to the streets and festivals of Chicago. | photo jillian sipkins |
Part of the reason the group came together, they say, is because of other job opportunities that didn’t pan out during the bottom of the recession. And, says Ureña, it was his wife’s idea in 2008 for them to create the concept to include a food truck. They were inspired to sell tamales as their main offering in part by the abundance of mobile tamalerías and square bicycles in Mexico City and Chicago. “The next goal is to sell the tamales in a food truck because the tamal is within the limits [of the city’s current law]; we can sell them completely packaged and sealed,” Ureña says. But they’d like to be able to serve the tamales as they’re traditionally served, which means pouring the mole over the top and adding the garnish on-site as it’s being given to the customer. “It seems kind of incredible you can serve the tamales but not
42 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
pour the mole over them,” says Ureña. “We want to sell Raúl’s product the way it should be eaten.” Arreola and Ureña say they love the idea of gourmet food being sold on the street because it’s such a big part of the culture in Mexico. “Some of the best food we’ve tasted has been in taco stands and tamale stands in Mexico, so it’s definitely a strong part of our culture and we want to integrate that part of our culture into American contemporary culture,” notes Ureña. “Someday, who knows, Tamalli Space Charros could be delivering tamales in space. We’re looking ahead to the future,” says Ureña with Arreola nodding in unison. Though delivering tamales in space is just a pipe dream at this point, they plan to have a tamale truck coming to a corner near you soon.
ON THE MENU Though the Space Charros have a regular catering menu, check out some of their signature tamales. Complicated “Tamalli” de Puerco Shredded pork tamale covered with traditional and elegant black mole Simple Rajas con Queso “Tamalli” Vegetarian tamale stuffed with poblano peppers & panela cheese, topped with a bright sauce made with tomato and habanero chile No one’s “Tamalli” de Pollo Shredded chicken tamale topped with green-peanut mole, cooked with serrano chiles and hoja santa
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cafégrande
Beats with Heat
44 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
music
Electronica-infused Colombian tunes ignite a delightful little musical revolution words
Argentina’s DJ Silvestre Herrera, illustrated left, and Colombia’s Bomba Estéreo, above, are making cumbia more appealing to a younger generation by incorporating techno beats and electric guitar. | photo alberto treviño |
Daniela Garcia
It’s a humid summer evening as Colombian quartet Bomba Estéreo takes the stage in Millennium Park, just one of the many acts that played during July as part of Chicago’s month-long Colombian Music Festival. Scattered across the Great Lawn are music fans sitting on blankets, enjoying the free show. The sounds drifting from the stage draw the attention of a curious passer-by or two. Closer to the stage, a small, energetic group of fans bounces and dances to the infectious beat, a new mixture of sound known as digital cumbia. cafemagazine.com 45
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El Remolón, a member of the Zizek Urban Beats Club, remixes traditional cumbia with sleek digital beats.
Colombian-American Julian Castro, a recent fan of the subgenre, was up front, taking in the new and old sounds from his homeland. “I think what is exciting is seeing bands coming out of South America that feel free to incorporate their own indigenous rhythms and native customs into their music,” Castro says. “A lot of times, bands feel like they have to fit into more of a North American context in order to make it. It’s really refreshing to hear a band [like Bomba Estéreo] that is doing something a little different.” It’s a musical revolution known by a variety of names: la cumbia nueva, electro-cumbia, digital cumbia. Yet no matter what you call it, they all describe a product of the fusion of traditional Colombian beats and electronica. Traditional cumbia can be traced back to the colonial period, mainly along Colombia’s Caribbean coast. The beat originally began as a courtship dance between the indigenous people and those of African descent. The original instruments included wooden flutes known as gaitas, drums and other forms of percussion. As the genre’s popularity spread across the country, cumbia was adapted to appeal to different social classes and began to include new elements, like horns, piano and bass. By the 1950s, cumbia had become widely recognized and enjoyed throughout South and Central America and Mexico, which made this Colombian rhythm its own. Musicians now sample older songs and put their own spin on them or, at times, add modern instrumentation to the various styles of cumbia.
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FROM COLOMBIA BY WAY OF ARGENTINA Digital cumbia’s origins are difficult to pinpoint, but its popularity in the past few years can be traced to Argentina thanks to the work of the collective known as the Zizek Urban Beats Club. Like Cumbia, tango, often associated with Argentina, was originally popular in working-class slums. Tango has since found its way to a younger mainstream audience in the form of tango nuevo. Now, digital cumbia is following quickly in its footsteps. “Cumbia has always been great on the dance floor; it only needed the electronic ingredient to make it appeal to young people that usually don’t listen to it,” DJ Sylvestre Herrera says from his home in Argentina. “I think there has been a rebirth of Latin American folklore in the past few years. It happened to tango, so it was just a matter of time before cumbia finally got its own facelift.” The Zizek collective emerged in 2006, providing Buenos Aires with a new monthly dance party fueled by a unique, electronic beat. American expatriate Grant Dull, one of Zizek’s cofounders who is currently on tour in the U.S., explains that “at the time, [in Buenos Aires] there was an emerging scene of producers that were all experimenting with cumbia … it’s such an old, legendary, popular and amazing rhythm. What we’re doing with it is taking it into the 21st century using modern tools and technology to just give it a reinterpretation for the digital, modern age.” Zizek’s founders created ZZK Records, now home to some of
music
Zizek collective co-founder Grant Dull says they’re taking cumbia into the 21st century by merging the traditional music with technology.
South America’s most well-known digital cumbia acts. Their roster includes Tremor, the alter ego of producer Leonardo Martinelli, who uses a mixture of indigenous sounds and synthesizers, and El Remolón, a popular DJ who polishes and remixes traditional cumbia with sleek digital beats. Dull, who also creates music under the DJ name El G, is a professed lover of both new and old cumbia. “It’s just really fun to be working with a group of producers and musicians that are respecting their roots but building on technology and just taking [cumbia] into a completely new territory,” he says. The Binary Cumbia Orchestra, DJ Silvestre Herrera’s project, is also contributing to the digital cumbia scene on a smaller scale. Having tired of house and techno, Herrera began experimenting with cumbia and was encouraged to continue his work after receiving positive feedback for “Coomvee-ah!” – one of his first tracks – from Federico Randall, the beatmaker behind The Peronists. “What I like about [digital cumbia] is that there is room to explore new sounds,” says Herrera. BLOG SUPPORT The Internet plays a vital role in digital cumbia’s expansion. Joseph Franko, owner of the blog Super Sonido (supersonido. net), began to notice digital cumbia’s rapid growth in popularity in the last three years. “One has to understand that cumbia is a pretty simple form of Latin American music,” he says. “So when it emerged from Colombia, other countries were able to incorporate their own regional sounds to that basic 4/4 cumbia beat. Countries like Mexico and Peru put their own stamp on the genre, very similar to what electronic musicians are doing today.” Blanca Mendez, a contributor at Latin music blog Club Fonograma, agrees that interest has peaked among readers. “We do keep up with Zizek a lot because they really are at the forefront of all of this,” she says. “Really any artists under their label we keep a close eye on because they’re all doing really interesting things.” Mendez, who is from the border town of Eagle Pass, Texas, grew up listening to cumbia Mexicana at family gatherings and had never had much of an opinion of it. With her mu-
sical preferences leaning heavily towards electronica, digital cumbia caters to both her taste and her roots. She became a full-fledged fan when she first heard a cumbia-fied remix of Santogold’s “Shove It.” “I was already a fan of the original song when I heard DJ Toy Selectah’s remixed version, and it was just astounding how well the combination worked,” says Mendez. “I never would have expected it to work that well.” It was only a matter of time before digital cumbia slowly made its way to North America. Dull says that around 2007, he met one of the organizers of South by Southwest, the Austin, Texas festival of film, music and interactive culture, and was encouraged to participate in the festival. The audience reaction was positive and motivated the Zizek crew to bring its music to the U.S. on a larger scale. By 2008, Dull and his fellow musicians embarked on Zizek’s first North American summer tour – now an annual event. Dull says digital cumbia’s success is due to “its ability to speak to any kind of music lover – from a college kid that’s looking for something new and hip to somebody who’s into world music and wants to know what these [people] from Argentina are doing with cumbia, something that has such a rich history.” Back in Chicago, Colombian-American fan Castro believes digital cumbia provides yet another way to embrace his dual identity. “A lot of us connect to our heritage through our parents’ generation and through our parents’ views, and since we’re growing up in the States, we don’t necessarily get a lot of interaction with people our age back home,” he says. “So it’s a way to connect with youth that we don’t have access to because we’re growing up in a different [context].” As digital cumbia slowly but firmly establishes itself in both the worlds of electronic and Latin American music, new subgenres will follow. “In the past, the music business was tightly controlled by only a few media outlets. The availability of music online and social media outlets has really counteracted that,” says Franko of Super Sonido. “It gives a musician the opportunity to work more independently and expand his or her reach. It’s a boon for genres like digital cumbia or any other type of underground Latin music.”
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48 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
COVERSTORY
s g arnin w s t Small craf ng a comeback vi a e w re a h itc B y h circles like El Stitc g tin it kn l a n o iti d a Tr words
Belia Ortega pho
tos
Marta García and
Members of El Stitch y Bitch knit, crochet and embroider pieces for their Day of the Dead altar. The organization began with four members and today has more than 100 Latino crafters. | photos marta garcia
alBerto Treviño
Weeks before the opening of the National Museum of Mexican Art’s annual Día de Los Muertos exhibition, a few dozen women and a handful of men gathered at Catedral Café in Chicago’s Little Village neighborhood to work on their altar. cafemagazine.com 49
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Thelma Uranga, co-founder of El Stitch y Bitch, likes sharing her knitting knowledge with young artists in the Pilsen neighborhood. | photo marta garcia
Together, the group, called El Stitch y Bitch (SYB), is knitting mustard colored marigolds, crocheting a rainbow of papel picado, conchas and skeletons, and embroidering butterflies and flowers onto tablecloths for the altar, titled “Entre estambres y tejidos recordamos los muertitos.”
Diana Pando connects to her mother by continuing to work on a thick yarned, dark blue shawl she left behind when she died in 2006. “I was essentially picking up where she left off,” says Pando. “You can see where her knitting process ends. Mine is a little bit holey.”
Many of the SYB members have stories about how their craft is connected to a relative or a friend that has since passed on. “I think it’s that connection to the past and the connection to all these different stories that we’ve shared and these different experiences that we’ve heard of,” says Thelma Uranga about the inspiration behind the altar.
When Irasema Gonzalez crochets, she’s reminded of her tía Cuca. “She was someone who made a big impression on my life when I was young,” says Gonzalez. “And she was always crocheting. She sat me down and gave me a little ball of peach yarn and a hook.”
Founded in Chicago’s Pilsen neighborhood by Uranga and Stephanie Manriquez, SYB brings together knitters, crafters and those who crochet of all backgrounds at coffee shops, galleries, parks or in someone’s living room around the city and suburbs. Together, they create art, catch up on the latest chatter and occasionally, well, bitch about life’s annoyances. Uranga’s altar inspiration is her grandmother, Carmelita, who passed away five years ago. Before she learned to knit, Uranga sat alongside her grandmother in her McAllen, Texas, home and practiced simple crocheting techniques. “I remember her showing me the little tools to make pompoms, and she quickly made a pom-pom… just made it for me,” Uranga reminisces. “I love making pom-poms. It’s just this funny little object, but the memories always come back.”
50 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
Gonzalez always carries the green crooked hook needle that her tía gave her in a pouch with her crochet tools. When Gonzalez crocheted with Cuca, she would listen to many family stories. Other times she’d sit and watch Cuca crochet, amazed at how far she’d gotten on her latest project, she says. “It’s just one of those things that if I pick up a ball of yarn and start crocheting, if I have a quiet moment at home, I do feel connected to her,” Gonzalez says. Knitting circles
El Stitch y Bitch isn’t a new concept. The name is a play off the commonly known Stitch ‘n Bitch circles that were created as a result of Debbie Stoller’s book “Stitch ‘n Bitch: The Knitters Handbook.” Published in 2003, the book is the first in a series of self-teaching knitting and crocheting books, which all include the phrase “Stitch ‘n Bitch.”
COVERSTORY
Knitting circles date back to the 1900s. Much of the renaissance may be partially credited to the interest from younger generations who enjoy the uniqueness of do-it-yourself projects. The Craft Yarn Council of America (CYCA), a trade organization that researches knitting and crochet trends and represents leading yarn companies, estimates there are 38 million crafters in the U.S. In a 2005 survey analyzing the growth of the yarn industry, CYCA found a growing younger group of consumers purchasing fashion yarns, with the most popular projects reflecting the latest fashion and home decor trends. Historically, the Aztec, Inca and Maya weaved clothing, offering the more elaborate pieces to the gods during worship. Now, weaving continues to be part of the Latino culture. A quick search on Ravelry.com, a crafting website, or Meetup.com, a meeting planning site, results in dozens of Latino knitting and crocheting groups in the U.S. and around the world. In Chicago, knitting groups are held in yarn shops such as Loopy Yarns in the South Loop, My Sister’s Knits in the Beverly neighborhood, at the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago, and in neighborhoods throughout the city and suburbs, including Wicker Park, the Brickyard and Des Plaines. The difference between these groups and El Stitch y Bitch is that SYB actively looks for ways to incorporate the craft into the local Latino community. Uranga has shared her knitting knowledge with young artists in the Pilsen neighborhood through a summer program called Tejer y Poder, a six-week partnership with After School Matters and Pros Art Studio at Dvorak Park. At the end of the program, the students host a final showcase where friends and family can view their pieces and purchase their work. The group of newly-minted knitters displays headbands, bracelets, arm warmers, booties and scarves for sale. They also decorate the park’s courtyard by sewing hundreds of rectangular knit and crocheted pieces around tree trunks. Then there’s the traveling knit piñata that Uranga originally created for the Bridgeport Art Festival. The piñata is a fiber art piece that welcomes community members to sew their woven work to it. Uranga has continued to bring the piñata along with her to other art festivals. “I was thinking somewhere along the lines of a cultural object; something that would represent us [with El Stitch y Bitch],” says Uranga. “And so we made a piñata covered in fabric and it’s interactive, folkloric, people can add to it. From there it traveled to the open streets. We approached knitting as fiber art.” She’s also reached out to college groups, taking road trips to speak to students about knitting and making an impact on the community.
RESOURCES El Stitch y Bitch: elstitchybitch.wordpress.com or stitchy.bitch@yahoo.com. Ravelry: ravelry.com. Windy City Knitting Guild: Find a class, yarn shop or group near you at windycityknittingguild.com Knitting Meet Ups: knitting.meetup.com Knitting Help: knittinghelp.com
“I think it’s very much a reaction to mass production and people just returning to handmade and wanting to make something themselves that’s unique,” says Uranga about her outreach efforts. Community of Knitters
Knitting is naturally social, says Uranga. That’s proven in the size of SYB, which began with four members in June 2008 and has since grown to more than 100 mostly Latino crafters. So, what makes SYB so special? It’s both the cultural and community aspect, says Pando. “I think it’s a wonderful way to build community, and the leadership of the women is creating community for themselves through knitting,” she says. Community organizer and SYB member Elvia Rodriguez Ochoa began embroidering when she was in college with the idea of taking traditional women’s crafts and creating pieces that would reflect current times, similar to SYB’s concept, she says. Ochoa now crochets in addition to embroidering. “[SYB] really fits into that way of thinking,” says Ochoa. “An entire altar piece based on traditional work that we see our grandmothers doing and our aunts doing. I thought that was a fantastic idea to apply to the altar.” For Laura Dindia, one of SYB’s few non-knitters, it’s also an opportunity to socialize with family and friends. Dindia and her mother, Elidia Anaya, work on needlepoint pieces while her husband, Angelo, knits toys. “I started doing it, and then [my mother said], ‘I didn’t know you were interested in this,’” says Dindia. “She’d been doing it on her own and I’d been doing it on my own. It’s nice to be able to do this together.” Gathering with the knitting circle and creating pieces for her son has given Hoa Ly-Dominguez new appreciation for the pieces her mother would knit for her when she was a child. “At first, I would remember that I would get these sweater vests and I hated them. I refused to wear them. I would complain that my mom’s sleeves were lopsided,” she says. “Now that I knit for my own child, I actually thought about my mom – how much work, how much care she put into each piece. It made me see they’re thinking of you.”
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52 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
IDENTITY
Despite being MexicanAmerican, Monique Frausto didn’t grow up speaking Spanish. Now she’s making up for lost time. | photo melissa valladares |
Growing Up, Reaching Back ‘Retro-acculturation’ draws Latinos to reconnect with language and heritage words
Carrie Ferguson Weir photo
Melissa Valladares, Carlos Anguita and Katie Gipple
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Eager to reflect the identity she and her children share, Monica Olvera-Hazelton, who lives near Raleigh, North Carolina, decided to create a Latino experience at home to make sure they get a bilingual, bicultural upbringing. | photo katie gipple |
Monique Frausto, a California-born Mexican-American, often has been embarrassed because she doesn’t speak Spanish fluently. So her husband, Carlos, also Mexican-American, is teaching her. Rubén González, of Minneapolis, finds himself speaking to his children in the same sing-song of his parents’ relaxed, lessthan-proper Colombian Spanish – something he didn’t think he would ever do. Monica Olivera-Hazelton could not find cute Spanish-language t-shirts for her infant daughter, so she opened a business, Latin Baby, and created an online shop that captures the rhythm of her Latin heartbeat, running it from her home near Raleigh, North Carolina. Marketers have a name for what these people – and countless Latinos in America – are experiencing. It’s called “retroacculturation” – the desire to reconnect with the culture of your home, your people, your community. This sometimes happens even if you planned to grow up and olvidarte, echar pa’lante, no mirar para atrás. And it is happening even if you, like Frausto, weren’t immersed completely in the culture. Retro-acculturation, as defined in “Marketing to American Latinos,” a study by the marketing firm Portada, refers to the “conscious search for ethnic identity or roots, especially by
54 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
second-, third- or fourth-generation Hispanic-Americans who have lost some or most of their cultural traits.” In other words, it is an active attempt to fuse living la mainstream vida americana with cultural heritage to “complete” your identity, according to a 2008 report by Phoenix Multicultural Marketing. Frausto, 33, an Air Force veteran and the creator of the popular online directory Blogs By Latinas, is a good example: “I want to belong and I want to be as Latina as I can, which is why I want to learn Spanish. I want to feel Latin.” Frausto says she grew up with quinceañeras and posadas in a traditional Hispanic family in Pomona, Calif. Everything Mexican was there, except the language. She wants the fluency in Spanish to feel authentic, part of the larger tribe of U.S. Latinos. The few marketing studies out there on the topic say this “want” is most often experienced by Latinos who fear they will dilute, lose their culture or – worse – not pass it on to their own children. Enter Olivera-Hazelton, who says that in the quiet existence of her North Carolina life, she could easily slip into an Anglo, mainstream, English-only life. But the 36-year-old Texas native, who is married to a non-Latino, says that isn’t who she
IDENTITY
“I find myself doing really cheesy stuff that comes naturally, like playing the music I used to hate when I was little,” says Ruben Gonzalez of Minneapolis. | photo Carlos Anguita |
is – and it isn’t what she wants for her two small children. So she has to look for and create a Latin experience at home. “I don’t want my kids to be like ‘Latino-what?’” Olivera-Hazelton says.
Southerner living in the North may long for biscuits and gravy; a New Orleans native may rediscover jazz; a Miamian of any flavor, living in the landlocked Midwest, may insist on an annual beach vacation.
The homeschooling mom, who grew up speaking Spanish and cooking big family meals with her abuelita in Texas, plays a lot of Latin music, especially the Gypsy Kings, and reads a lot of bilingual and Spanish books to the kids. The family attends cultural celebrations in nearby Raleigh and studies Latino history.
“After a certain age, you realize that those things from your childhood and all the times you said you were never going to be like your parents are just not true,” says González, 34. “I understand the packaging of certain concepts. It helps to narrow attributes. Retro-acculturation is really a symptom of growing up and reaching back, no matter who you are.”
Olivera-Hazelton’s business and her two blogs, Latin Baby Book Club and Mommy Maestra, are her way of reflecting the identity she and her children share and sharing that publicly to foster community.
Yet, he understands why the term is used on Latinos and understands the marketing power Latinos hold. He lives this daily as he and his American wife raise two small children, ages 3 and 1.
“I am very Americanized, and I am a Latina and I am proud of it,” she says. “I want my children to feel the same, even though it takes effort.”
“I find myself doing really cheesy stuff that comes naturally, like playing the music I used to hate when I was little – Leonardo Favio and Helenita Vargas,” González says. “I bought a bunch of that music on iTunes, my American wife likes it and it actually makes me a little bit happy.”
A UNIVERSAL CONCEPT Rubén González, who came to the United States at age 20, works in marketing and lives in Minneapolis. He laughs a little at the term “retro-acculturation” and its use in marketing to Latinos. Retro-acculturation, he insists, really is a universal concept: A
“I also find that when I talk to my kids, I do it in the way I would speak to my mom, more familiar, more slangy,” González adds. “A younger me would not have thought about talking to my children the way my parents talked to me, but if I didn’t, it wouldn’t feel right. Spanish would feel like a chore.”
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caféGRANDE ‘UNRESOLVED’ DIASPORA Angelica Perez-Litwin, a therapist and writer, has studied cross-cultural migration, the Latino immigrant experience and Hispanic-Americans. The New Yorkborn Dominican-American believes the ease with which Latinos are preserving, and reaching back, to their culture of origin is due to less resistance in America to being Latino or being an “other.” “I really think we haven’t resolved this diaspora we live in,” she says. “We’re still kind of dangling, and in an effort to figure out who we are, we are changing and redefining who we are, where we come from, and trying to make it solid.” “Because of our numbers, our political empowerment, our consumer empowerment and because we are in the media, we are redefining ‘Latina’ and ‘Latino,’” Perez-Litwin adds. “We have more freedom in defining ourselves, and as we have more freedom, we are not afraid to want our kids to speak Spanish or identify as Latino.” Says González: “We are fortunate to be in this country as part of a generation that doesn’t have the pressure to adapt or to lose your native language.” The bottom line is maybe retro-acculturation pulls strongly because it has a lot to do with childhood, memories and heart, a warmth that our busy American dream, text-messaging, Facebooking daily lives don’t always offer. “The intellectual, cognitive part of me feels comfortable in the mainstream society I live in. I play well by these social rules and I know how to navigate the system,” Perez-Litwin says. “The emotional part of me craves for my Latino everything – my mother’s cooking, my tías, mis primos, la música. Letting go of my heritage is hard, so I keep holding on – any way I can.” And maybe it is about finally feeling connected. Frausto, who says she purposely watches novelas and downloads all kinds of Spanish music, is aiming for that. “I want to belong,” she says. “I want to be as as Latina as I can. I want to learn Spanish, even if it is one or two words a day. I don’t want to feel like I did growing up. I want to feel 100 percent [like I belong] and right now, I don’t.”
56 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
BY THE NUMBERS
52 %
of Latinos ages 16 to 25 identify themselves first by their family’s country of origin, according to a 2009 Pew Hispanic Center National Survey of Latinos. 24 percent identify as “American” first.
Back to basics Embracing our parents’ lessons words
Jackie Madrigal
I recently read a tale about how as children we look at our dad and think he’s the smartest of all. Later, in our 20s and 30s, we come to believe the “old man” doesn’t know anything. Ten years later, we start to come around and actually consider going to him for advice. At 55, we realize Dad really knew what he was talking about. And in our 70s, it hits us like a ton of bricks … Dad was the wisest of men and he really did love us unconditionally! This story reminds me of my journey to reconnect with my Latino identity. As children and teenagers, we rarely give much thought to or care about what it means to be Latino. It’s only when we get older and face challenges that we divert back to the lessons we learned – consciously or unconsciously – from our parents about our culture and way of life. Born in Mexico but raised in the U.S. since the age of 6, I always knew where I came from, and I thoroughly enjoyed our yearly trips to Morelia, Michoacán. In fact, I looked forward to spending Christmas with family and friends at our home in that beautiful colonial city. But the majority of my life was shaped by my experiences in the U.S. – the pop culture, the way of life and that sense of entitlement Americans feel from knowing that we live in the “land of the free and home of the brave.” Something as simple – and as important in Latino culture – as cooking was a no-no for me. When Mom would ask me to come watch when she cooked, I had absolutely no interest. “You have to learn how to cook,” she insisted. I’d simply ignore her, and as the baby of the family I got away with it. What did she know, anyway? After all, I was great at ordering takeout. And that’s exactly what I did when I finally moved out – a traumatic experience, no less, for Latino parents who’d rather we move out the day of our wedding. I found nothing wrong with my lifestyle. I figured everyone did it, and my salary was significant enough to sustain my no-cooking habit. When the economy practically collapsed and layoffs hit hard, I felt horrible for my many colleagues who were struggling to find new sources of income. At some level, I knew my job could be at risk, but I didn’t allow those thoughts to seep in too deep… it was too scary. Boy, was I in denial … so much so that the eating out and spending on unnecessary items did not subside. Then reality caught up with me, and the magazine where I had worked for nine years closed. Now what? If I’m going to live on a budget, I have to eat on a budget and I have to spend on a budget. Mom was right: I should have learned how to cook. Oh, the shock! My reality is different now, and I find myself wishing I had paid more attention to all that rich advice Mom and Dad tried to give me. How did they do it? They managed to raise a family of eight on a very modest salary. Yet we always had plenty to eat, new clothes for school, a nice home – that they owned – in a nice neighborhood, and even a little extra for things like the occasional eating out. For more of this story, go to cafemagazine.com.
TM Go Red trademark of AHA, Red Dress trademark of DHHS
Macy’s celebrates El Encanto Latino and honors the achievements of Hispanic-Americans that have inspired us all. Find Your Magic at Macy’s and celebrate El Encanto Latino, recognizing the rich culture, history and contributions of Hispanics. Join us for fun and inspiring events featuring local Latina life coaches, the American Heart Association’s Hispanic movement Go Red Por Tu Corazón and Lancôme as we discover the key to empowering yourself and your family through living well, looking fabulous and feeling fantastic. Check your local paper for information on events like these and others at your local Macy’s or visit macys.com/celebrate. Celebrate Hispanic Heritage Month September 15th through October 15th.
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58 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
CAFÉFASHION
Photographer alberto treviño
Fashion Stylist Hair and Make-up Production Manager Models
Agga B. laura weathersby Vera Napoleon
gregory stellatos, Ford peter hernandez, Ford
LEFT: Slim Tailor Denim Jacket by G-Star, $265 Akira Tailored Pique Polo by J.Lindeberg, $73 Akira Straight Leg in DBK by Hudson Saint, $190 Akira Shoes by Nike, models own
RIGHT: Sweater by Sands Nurik, $320 Akira Basic v-neck cardigan, $13 Akira Glasses, $25 Silver Room Mavi Matt Comfort Cord in Driftwood, $88 Akira Boots by Rag & Bone, $410 Saks Fifth Avenue
upernatural SSupernatural
Urban Decay Urban Decay
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Rustic mustard Jefferson coat by Arlo, $225 www.arlomeanswear.com Button down shirt by Hugo Boss, $190 Macy’s on State Street Bow tie, $45 Akira Wool pants by McQ, $435 Saks Fifth Avenue Glasses, $25 Silver Room Work boots by Diesel, $240 Diesel
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CAFÉFASHION
LEFT: Rovere Gesture shirt in Cool Stone by Theory, $265 Akira V-neck cardigan in purple, $12 Akira The Slim Guy Jean in Tan Selvedge denim by Naked & Famous, $179 Akira Glasses, $25 Silver Room
RIGHT: Hooded Mac Khaki Jacket by YMC, $207 Akira V-neck cardigan, $13 Akira Scuba Elwood denim by G-Star, $254 Akira Work boots by Diesel, $240 Diesel
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Eton Marl blazer by Ben Sherman, $239 Akira Cardigan by Dorsia Nelson, $96 Akira Endor dress shirt by Hugo Boss, $154 Akira The Slim Guy Jean in Tan Selvedge denim by Naked & Famous, $179 Akira Boots by Rag & Bone, $410 Saks Fifth Avenue
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Correct flight jacket in Nassau Blue by G-Star, $226 Akira V-neck cardigan, $12 Akira Wool suit pants in black by Moods of Norway, $126 Akira Tribal bag by MARCOS, $80 Silver Room Glasses, $25 Silver Room
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Only in Dreams
Little things make romantic getaway to Nuevo Vallarta resort worth it words
Terri Colby
LEFT: The resort’s multiple restaurants gave Lorena Hernandez a taste of different international cuisines. ABOVE: Dreams Villamagna is located in the Riviera Nayarit on the Nuevo Vallarta Banderas Bay.
“Sun,” “relaxation” and “adventure” are three words Lorena Hernandez uses to describe her prize-winning trip to the all-inclusive Dreams Villamagna Nuevo Vallarta in Mexico provided by Apple Vacations. But “romance” is another word that comes to mind when considering the setting where Hernandez, 33, and her fiancé Rolando Varela, 32, spent eight days and seven nights in June at the resort in Riviera Nayarit, 15 minutes north of the Puerto Vallarta International Airport. “The beach and the sunsets,” she recalls. “When the sun is setting over the ocean it’s really nice. The hotel is definitely romantic.” Hernandez has traveled often to Mexico, several times to Puerto Vallarta and also to Guanajuato, where her parents are from. But this was her first trip to Nuevo Vallarta, which she notes is “a little distant from the center of the action” in Puerto Vallarta. But then, her trip was all about relaxation and finding the time
to unwind. Hernandez, a graduate student in human resources at DePaul University in Chicago, also works at the DePaul Law School’s asylum and immigration legal clinic. So in the spirit of relaxation, Hernandez and Varela spent time hanging out at the pool. “That’s part of the fun,” she says, “to do a little bit of nothing.” One of the resort’s pools is an infinity pool that overlooks the ocean, a perfect place to relax. But there was more than relaxation on this trip: Hernandez and her fiancé didn’t make it to the resort’s spa, but they did head to the resort’s gym for workouts several times. “You have the time to do the things you don’t typically have the time to do,” Hernandez says. “It helps with the guilt.” Guilt? She was talking about working out at the gym to try and make up for all the eating they did at the resort’s restaurants. “The food was very good, which you don’t always expect at an all-inclusive,” she says. “The options are limitless. You can
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Lorena Hernandez enjoyed sun, relaxation and adventure as part of her trip to the all-inclusive Dreams Villamagna Nuevo Vallarta provided by Apple Vacations. A local resident offers visitors fresh, warm tortillas.
order room service from the restaurants whenever you want.” Dreams Villamagna Nuevo Vallarta has multiple restaurants with international cuisine themes – Italian, Mediterranean, Mexican, seafood, a Sushi Sky Bar Lounge – and drinks and food are available poolside as well. Lounging poolside is just one of the many pleasures of a trip to the Riviera Nayarit, though. Hernandez and Varela did some exploring of the area as well: a city tour of Puerto Vallarta, a tour of a section of the Sierra Madre mountains and a Marieta Islands boat tour. And it’s the tours that provide some of the adventure on this vacation.
how to make fresh tortillas from scratch. “I think everyone went back for more after their first taste” of the fresh, warm tortillas topped with salsa made from ingredients grown in the garden, Hernandez says. Later, there was a walking tour with commentary on the natural habitat of the Sierra Madre and lunch at a secluded beach. Not a bad way to end the excursion.
“They take us in the back of an old military truck,” Hernandez says, with wind whipping everywhere as they ride up into the mountains, “so it’s quite the adventure.”
Another secluded beach was part of the Marieta Islands boat tour they took on another day. The nearly hour-long boat ride afforded tourists the opportunity to see dolphins, manta rays and jellyfish. The Marieta Islands are classified as a national wildlife preserve. Some vacationers did scuba diving or snorkeling, but Hernandez and Varela went kayaking before heading to the beach for more time in the sun.
Better than the ride to the small village, however, was the stop at the home of a local woman who allowed the visitors to sample fruit, such as mangos and plantains, from her garden and showed them
The city tour gave Hernandez another look at Puerto Vallarta and a chance to learn more about its culture and history. Puerto Vallarta has much to offer with the Sierra Madre mountains to the east,
Banderas Bay to the west and a beautiful historic town in the middle. Downtown Puerto Vallarta boasts the services of a modern city while retaining the authenticity of a colonial Mexican village. Part of the city’s history is the impact that the filming of the 1964 movie “The Night of the Iguana” had on the area and its emergence as a tourist destination. Actor Richard Burton was starring in the film, and his paramour Elizabeth Taylor accompanied him to Puerto Vallarta while he filmed with Ava Gardner. The paparazzi followed and shined a light on the city and, as they say, the rest is history. The tour also included a visit to the iconic Our Lady of Guadalupe church, which adds quite a different kind of star power. There was also a chance to do some shopping: Hernandez has a new silver cuff bracelet, a gift from her fiancé. So, relaxation, sun and adventure add up to a great vacation. And given all the romance that also comes along with a trip to Dreams Villamagna Nuevo Vallarta, it’s hard to imagine a honeymoon for Hernandez and Varela that will top this trip.
Experience Majestic Colonial and Majestic Elegance, all-inclusive resorts in Punta Cana where luxury and comfort fuse together to bring you relaxation along with all the activities you desire. Fly non-stop from O’Hare on Apple-exclusive vacation flights. Once you arrive, you’ll be greeted by a team of Apple Representatives who will guide you to your hotel transfer and be available throughout your stay to help ensure the vacation of a lifetime!
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• Suites and Junior suites all with Jacuzzi • Swim up rooms and one bedroom suites also available • 24 hour all inclusive • Room service included* • à la carte restaurants plus buffet • Bars with international drinks • Lagoon size swimming pools • Spectacular wedding Gazebos and Chapel • Daily and nightly entertainment • Casino and Spa on site • Internet access available* • FREE Weddings and Honeymoon packages available* • FREE Golf* • Elegance Club Adults only amenities
*Restrictions apply. †Prices per person based on double occupancy (unless otherwise stated) including r/t charter air, r/t airport/hotel transfers and fuel surcharges. Prices based on the lowest fare class available. Prices apply to select departure dates within a specific range. In some instances, pricing may specifically apply to one of multiple flights on select departure days. Restrictions, blackout dates and surcharges may apply. Prices do not include $2.50 (per segment) September 11 security fee, other governmental taxes and fees ($100.95-$148) and $10 Dominican Republic Tourist Card fee if applicable. For bookings within 14 days of departure, add $10 per person. Prices are subject to availability and change. Checked bag fees from the air carrier may apply, ranging from $10-$100 per bag. Please see the individual air carriers website for a full detailed description of baggage charges. See the Fair Trade Contract on applevacations.com. CST2036061-40 AD5681 8/10
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Niña de fuego
Spanish singer Concha Buika was born in Mallorca to parents who migrated from Equatorial Guinea.
Spanish fusion artist Concha Buika starts her first U.S. tour in Chicago words
Marilia Gutiérrez
Take a voice that is wondrous and sensual, full of nuances and depths; at times it’s coarse, always soulful and passionate, with the sheer power and quality of a fully formed artist.
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The Chicago Symphony Center is the first stop in Buika’s first U.S. tour to promote her album “El Último Trago,” a tribute to Chavela Vargas.
Combine it with a petite, lithe body and smooth ebony skin, tattooed with the names of the women who have influenced her. Sometimes her hair is full of braids; other times, it’s carefully wrapped in a turban. Embellishing her arms are bangles of different colors, textures and widths. Add the music – a fusion of jazz, flamenco, soul, ranchera, copla, bolero – with a distinctive style, a presence and a voice channeling past and present vocal legends – Billie Holiday, Erykah Badu, Tina Turner, Mercedes Sosa, Lola Flores, Chavela Vargas...What do you get? Concha Buika. Born in 1972 in Mallorca, the largest of the Balearic Islands off Spain’s eastern coast, Buika’s parents were migrants from Equatorial Guinea, the former Spanish colony in west central Africa. Speaking from her home in Madrid, Buika’s voice on the phone sounds as sensual and ethereal as in her songs. A bit unruly, her speech exudes a presence of mind typical of more seasoned artists. The conversation is peppered with all sorts of stories, so much so that one can’t help but wonder how much of it is true and how much is invention – fiction, reality, philosophy, religion and poetry find their way into the conversation with the same ease. The Chicago Symphony Center will be the first stop Oct. 15 on her first tour through 22 North American cities to promote her album “El Último Trago” (2009), a tribute to the queen of Mexican ranchera, Chavela Vargas. The album has received two Latin Grammy nominations this year for recording of the year as well as best tradtional tropical album. The awards ceremony will take place November 11 in Las Vegas. 68 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
mustgo
“My mother and my father are African, very African. We’re people with a very recent tribal past,” says Buika.
This is not Buika’s first extended visit to the United States, though. Apart from some sporadic appearances in New York and Miami, in 2001 she spent a year working in Las Vegas impersonating none other than Tina Turner. “She’s one of the muses that guide me,” she asserts in her suave Spanish accent. But why Vegas? “I don’t know,” she says with a laugh. “My parents are from a tribe located in a small town, on a small island that could be anywhere on the African map… I don’t understand distances or time. To me the world is small. I believe that if there are people who laugh and are alive, you can also be there and be okay.” For the Afro-Spanish singer and single mother who began her career singing in clubs in Palma and Ibiza, Vegas was a full-blown lesson in survival. But she was there to sing, and sheer determination kept her going. “I had this wig that cost me $2.50, that looked like it was made with the hair of a rat’s tail, and a skirt that I had cut myself, which was the only skirt I had to go to work and to which I stitched two sequins the night before,” she continues. “I mean, I was the cheapest, ugliest Tina Turner I’d ever seen!”
VARGAS’ “BLACK DAUGHTER”
“El Último Trago,” recorded in Havana in April 2009 with Cuban pianist Chucho Valdés, pays homage to Vargas, the living legend known for her heart-wrenching songs of love forlorn, passionate breakups and forbidden affairs. Vargas and Buika are now very close – Vargas has even called her “my black daughter.” Things didn’t start that way, though. The first encounter actually ended in tears. The story goes that Buika and fellow Spanish flamenco singer Martirio had been asked to accompany an elderly Vargas during an appearance four years ago in Madrid. Vargas reportedly had heard Buika sing and agreed to have her on the show. But things went awry during rehearsal. Nerves, fears and diva behavior all played a role. Buika has a way of recounting the incident: “Chavela knows how to sniff fear in others and likes to play with it. It’s genius! She told me, ‘Sing, mi’ja.’ And I was thinking, ‘Gee, I’m standing in front of Chavela Vargas! This woman is an eminence!’ And when I started singing, I was overwhelmed by fear. She noticed it. She told me, ‘Enough! Be quiet, mi’ja.’ I kept singing, but she cafemagazine.com 69
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IF YOU GO
In Chicago Buika and Lila Downs: A Tribute to Chavela Vargas When: Oct,.15, 8 p.m. Where: Symphony Center, 220 S. Michigan Ave. Admission: $30-$45 Info: www.cso.org In New York Tribute to Chavela Vargas: Buika When: Oct. 22, 8 p.m. Where: The Town Hall, 123 W. 43rd St. Admission: $30-$60 Info: www.the-townhall-nyc.org In Los Angeles Buika and Lila Downs: A Tribute to Chavela Vargas When: Nov. 10, 8 p.m. Where: Walt Disney Concert Hall, 111 S. Grand Ave. Admission: $38-$93 Info: www.laphil.com/tickets Buika’s third album “Niña de Fuego” (2008) was nominated for two Latin Grammy awards.
said, ‘You’re not ready to sing, mi’ja.’” “She threw us to the dogs,” she continues. “I remember being in my living room four days later at the time of the concert, crying by myself.” But things turned around when Buika visited Mexico as part of her world tour, and Vargas came to see her at the Auditorio Nacional. “When the show ended, she came to my dressing room and congratulated me, gave me a hug and told me I was her daughter ... la negrita!” she fondly recalls, laughing. “Since then, we’re inseparable. She takes good care of me, she gives me advice, she helps me a lot.” “El Último Trago” is Buika’s fourth album. In her debut album, “Buika” (2005), the artist experimented with R&B, funk, jazz and flamenco fusion, one of her trademarks. Produced by Javier Limon, known for his connections to worldrenowned flamenco musicians such as Miguel Poveda, her second album, “Mi Niña Lola” (2006) won best album and best production at the Spanish Music Awards. But it was “Niña de Fuego” (2008), nominated for two Latin Grammy awards, which launched her onto the international music scene as one of the most unique voices in Latin music. Flamenco has been a common thread through her musical career and more than an inspiration for Buika. After all, she grew up in a poor gypsy neighborhood in Palma de Mallorca. But when it comes to influence, nothing stands up to her African roots. “Yes, [the gypsy culture] was an influence, but I belong to a very strong culture,” she explains
70 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
with characteristic composure. “My mother and my father are African, very African. We’re people with a very recent tribal past. On the other hand, I grew up in Palma de Mallorca and even though I lived in a gypsy neighborhood, it’s still Spain. I think that the Spanish culture had the most weight when contrasted with the African tribal culture that we practiced at home.” Having performed on stages all over the world, Buika is quick to say that she does not prepare before she takes the stage. But one family anecdote has stayed with her over the years, helping her grasp the enormity of singing in front of live audiences from all corners of the globe. “I remember I used to sleep with my sister [and little brother] on the same bed,” she explains. “One day my mom didn’t go to work, which was a miracle because she would always be at work when we woke up. She had prepared orange juice for everyone, and there was one glass for our bed, for the three of us. She came in and brought it and I got so nervous that I knocked it down and spilled it. Imagine what I felt that to this day – I’m almost 40 years old – I still remember it! When I’m on stage, I go back to that moment and manage not to spill it; I manage to take a sip and pass it to my sister.” Supporting Buika on this tour are Iván “Melón” Lewis (piano), Dany Noe (double bass) and Fernando Favier (percussion). The tour is also scheduled to make two stops in Canada (Toronto, Oct. 16, and Vancouver, Nov. 7), as well as San Juan, Puerto Rico (Nov. 18).
take your
Playlist Match-UP Listen to and vote for your favorite playlists from industry insiders, artists, DJs, and other taste makers
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TODOTOSÍ Vicente Fernández and Paquita la del Barrio When: Oct. 17, 7 p.m. What: She is the scourge of Mexico’s sexist culture, always railing against abusive men, teasing her male spectators with such sweet terms of endearment as inútiles. He is the quintessential ranchera singer, the ultimate symbol of Mexican masculinity, the rightful heir of Jorge Negrete and Pedro Infante. Sparks will surely fly when these two giants share the stage. Where: Allstate Arena, 6920 N. Mannheim Road, Rosemont Admission: $49.50-$250 Info: www.ticketmaster.com
Imagine Cuba: Photographs by Sandro Miller When: Oct. 2-Dec. 26 What: Chicago-based photographer Sandro Miller has been traveling to Cuba for more than 10 years to capture people going through their everyday lives in his images. This exhibit includes the last series of images Miller captured on film before switching to digital photography, including a previously unexhibited series of portraits of elderly Cubans. Where: Michigan Avenue Galleries, Chicago Cultural Center, 78 E. Washington St., Chicago Admission: Free Hours: Monday-Thursday, 8 a.m.-7 p.m.; Friday, 8 a.m.-6 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Info: (312) 744-6630 Marc Anthony and Ana Gabriel When: Oct. 2, 8 p.m. What: The actor and salsa and pop singer finishes his U.S. tour in Chicago where, along with his salsa hits, he will be performing tracks from his latest recording, “Iconos” (“Icons”). Mexican ranchera and pop singer Ana Gabriel shares the bill. Where: Allstate Arena, 6920 N. Mannheim Road, Rosemont Admission: $55-$125 Info: www.ticketmaster.com Mariachi Vargas de Tecalitlán When: Oct. 3, 3 p.m. What: Founded in 1897 by Gaspar Vargas, the Mariachi Vargas de Tecalitlán is much more than an institution. It’s the university where all great mariachi musicians have come from – and will continue to originate. Join them for an afternoon of great Mexican music.
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Where: Symphony Center, 220 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago Info: (312) 294-3000, www.cso.org Intocable When: Oct. 9, 7:30 p.m. What: The Grammy-winning group has set the standard for how tejano and norteño music should sound in the 21st century. Where: The Venue at Horseshoe Casino, 777 Casino Center Drive, Hammond, Ind. Admission: $37.50, $50 (prices increase $10 the day of the event) Info: www.ticketmaster.com Chucho Valdés When: Oct. 10, 8 p.m. What: The great Cuban jazz pianist and founder of Irakere returns to Chicago after a nine-year absence. He will be performing alongside the Afro-Cuban Messengers. Where: Symphony Center, 220 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago Info: (312) 294-3000, www.cso.org Polaridad Complementaria: Recent Works from Cuba When: Oct. 16-Feb. 2, 2011 What: Developed by the Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wifredo Lam in Havana, this traveling exhibit showcases the work of 24 Cuban artists in different disciplines: photography, sculpture, video, drawing, painting and installation art. Where: Exhibit Hall, Chicago Cultural Center, 78 E. Washington St., Chicago Admission: Free Hours: Monday-Thursday, 8 a.m.-7 p.m.; Friday, 8 a.m.-6 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Info: (312) 744-6630
Ballet Folklórico Quetzalcoatl When: Oct. 16, 7 p.m. What: Aurora’s very own Ballet Folklórico Quetzalcoatl will delight audiences with their repertoire of authentic dances from Jalisco, Nayarit, Nuevo León and Veracruz, among other Mexican states. Where: Paramount Theatre, 23 E. Galena Blvd., Aurora Admission: Adults, $23.50; children, $16.50 Info: (630) 896-6666; www.paramountarts.com 26 Miles When: Oct. 16-Nov. 21 What: Teatro Vista and Rivendell Theatre Ensemble present the Midwest premiere of Quiara Alegria Hudes’ play about a mother and her estranged daughter who go on a road trip to mend broken wounds. Where: Chicago Dramatists, 1105 W. Chicago Ave., Chicago Show times: Oct. 16-20: Saturday, 8 p.m.; Sunday, 7 p.m.; Tuesday and Wednesday, 8 p.m.; Oct. 22-Nov. 21: Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 8 p.m.; Sunday, 3 p.m. Admission: $25. Info: (312) 334-7728, www.teatrovista.org or www.rivendelltheatre.net Gold When: Oct. 22-March 6, 2011 What: Organized by New York’s American Museum of Natural History and The Houston Museum of Natural Science, this exhibit features more than 560 geological specimens and objects from around the world to tell the scientific and social history of this metal. Where: Field Museum of Natural History, 1400 S. Lake Shore Drive, Chicago Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m.
CALENDAR Admission: Adults, $22-$28; seniors and students with ID, $18-$23; children ages 3-11, $15-$19 Info: fieldmuseum.org Lizt Alfonso Dance Cuba When: Oct. 28 and 29 What: One of Cuba’s most prestigious dance companies, comprised of a full female ensemble, will bring its unique blend of flamenco, ballet, dance and Afro-Cuban rhythms to Chicago. Where: Auditorium Theatre, 50 E. Congress Pkwy., Chicago Show times: Oct. 28, 7:30 p.m.; Oct. 29, 8 p.m. Admission: $30-$69 Info: www.auditoriumtheatre.org Ballet Hispánico When: Nov. 11, 7:30 p.m. What: Eduardo Vilaró, Luna Negra Dance Theater founder and current artistic director for New York’s Ballet Hispánico, returns to Chicago to present his work with Ballet Hispánico plus some oldies but goodies from the company’s repertory. Where: Harris Theater for Music and Dance, 205 E. Randolph Drive, Chicago Info: www.harristheaterchicago.org
Brainpeople When: Nov. 12-Dec. 12 What: Urban Theater Company presents the Midwest premiere of this play by playwright and scriptwriter José Rivera. In a not-so-distant future in war-torn Los Angeles, a wealthy woman invites two strangers to join her in celebrating her parents’ death. Where: Batey Urbano, 2620 W. Division St., Chicago Show times: Thursday-Saturday, 7:30 p.m.; Sunday, 6 p.m. Info: (708) 379-3138, www. urbantheaterchicago.org A Christmas Carol When: Nov. 19-Dec. 31 What: The Goodman Theatre’s annual production of this perennial Christmas classic has a new Scrooge: John Judd. Start your holiday celebration early with this play adapted from Charles Dickens’ short novel about an avaricious man who discovers the true spirit of Christmas. Where: Goodman Theatre, 170 N. Dearborn St., Chicago Admission: $14.40-$76 Info: (312) 443-8000, www.goodmantheatre.org
Chayanne When: Nov. 24, 9 p.m. What: The Puerto Rican superstar will be performing his greatest hits, as well as songs from his latest CD, “No hay imposibles.” Expect a lot of fireworks and aerobic-like dance sets. Where: Allstate Arena, 6920 N. Mannheim Road, Rosemont Admission: $67.50-$127.50 Info: www.ticketmaster.com Christkindlmarket When: Nov. 24-Dec. 24 What: Daley Plaza will be transformed again into a quaint German town. Enjoy traditional German food, drinks and live entertainment while shopping for unique, handmade gifts. Where: Daley Plaza, Washington Street between Clark and Dearborn streets Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Special hours: Nov. 25, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.; Dec. 24, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Info: www.christkindlmarket.com
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The Café team of tasters crowned Señor Pan as best Cuban sandwich in Chicago.
Sabor a Cuba In search of the Windy City’s best Cuban sandwich words
Maura Wall Hernandez photo alBerto Treviño
Whether you call it a Cuban sandwich, a cubano or a mixto, this unique Cuban take on a ham and cheese sandwich undoubtedly will leave you with visions of sandwiches dancing in your head and strains of Celia Cruz melodies tinkling in your ear. Most experts agree: a true Cuban sandwich consists of roasted pork, cured ham, swiss cheese, thinly-sliced dill pickles and Cuban (or French) bread, slathered with yellow mustard. Typically, the bread ranges anywhere in size from 7 to 12 inches long. Some versions also include butter spread on the crust or mayonnaise on the bread, though there are those who will argue over a Cuban sandwich’s authenticity if it includes mayonnaise. The exact origins of the sandwich are unknown, but according to some sources the sandwich tradition first became popular in the late 1800s or early 1900s among cigar factory and sugar mill workers in Florida. The sandwiches were sold at restaurants, lunch wagons, and just about anywhere else factory workers ate frequently. The bread, grilled to a crispy perfection on the outside but maintaining softness on the inside is achieved with a plancha – an apparatus similar to a panini press but without the ridges, so that it presses the sandwich flat. Not everybody’s got a plancha, though. Some home cooks improvise by pressing the sandwich with a bacon press, a cast iron pan or even a brick covered in aluminum foil. In Tampa, we hear they add Genoa salami to their cubano – probably a result of accommodating the taste buds of local Italian immigrants since the 1800s; in Key West, it’s common for your 74 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
cubano to come with mayonnaise, lettuce and tomato. Another version of the sandwich – called the medianoche – has all the same main ingredients, save for the pineapple juice-sweetened and eggbased bread akin to Hawaiian bread. Café editors voted on a list of top-rated Cuban establishments in Chicago, focused on serving mostly sandwiches, and enlisted a team of in-house taste-testers (and friends and relatives) to check out half a dozen locations to find Chicago’s best cubano. The following is an evaluation of a select list of restaurants serving this traditional sandwich. They took into consideration six key elements when rating the sandwiches: the bread (which should ideally be Cuban bread, toasted a la plancha, but French bread was considered an acceptable substitute); that it contained all the standard ingredients; rating the meat seasoning and moisture; thickness or heartiness of the sandwich; overall balance of flavors and taste; and size and value for price. What our team noted most is that traditional preparation always wins out – but not always where you expect. Some of the older establishments received low marks, mostly for inconsistency, missing ingredients or poor overall taste and value. The new crop of Cuban sandwich shops that received highest marks are relatively young and owned or run by the under 40 crowd. The Café team of tasters, Marilia Gutiérrez, Maura Wall Hernandez, Diana Ramirez, Alejandro Riera, Christina E. Rodriguez, alBerto Treviño, and Susan Willey, crowned Señor Pan as Chicago’s best.
dINING
BREAD
Señor Pan
4612 W. Fullerton Ave., Chicago (773) 227 - 1020 senorpan.com
El Cubanito
2555 North Pulaski Rd., Chicago (773) 235-2555
90 Miles
3101 N. Clybourn Ave./2540 W. Armitage Ave., Chicago (773) 248-2822
Cafecito
26 E. Congress Pkwy., Chicago (312) 922-2233
4: Perfect, toasty goodness.
INGREDIENTS
4: All ingredients were present and in abundance.
SEASONING
THICKNESS
TASTE
3: The pork was a bit dry, perhaps from over-roasting, but the ham was juicy.
3.5: One of the meatiest sandwiches we tried.
3.5: All the ingredients live together in perfect harmony.
3: The meat was thick-cut and moist, making it very filling.
3.3: Very meaty 3.6: Wellham. balanced and satisfying.
3.6: Nicely toasted. Not too hard and not too heavy.
3.6: All ingredients were present and in good proportion.
4: Toasted to perfection.
3.6: All the in- 4: Very flavorful gredients were and tender meat. there, but the pickles were fairly bland.
4: Skinny and flat but delicious and crusty.
4: A satisfying sandwich – you can’t go wrong here! TOTAL RATING: 4
2.3: The ham and pork were thick cut, but only one layer of each.
3: Well bal3: Excellent value anced flavors in for the price. Plus each bite. plantain chips at no extra charge. TOTAL RATING: 3
3.3: This sandwich comes in one standard and satisfying 7-inch size.
3.6: All ingredients were present; the pickles were nice and tangy.
3.3: Juicy and slightly fatty, the pork has a garlicky flavor. One of our favorites.
2.6: This sandwich is pressed as pressed gets. But it’s pretty filling.
3: Inconsistent use of mustard. Sometimes too much, other times, too little.
2.3: If you aren’t 2.6: Not a terrible value given the looking for 100% authen- sandwich size. tic, you might TOTAL RATING: 2 like it.
2.3: Bread tends to be overheated, even burned.
2: Zero mustard and only two dime-sized pickles. C’mon!
2: The pork was well-seasoned but too dry, and the ham seemed like normal deli meat.
2: The regular size isn’t very thick. For only $1 more, make it a double.
El Rinconcito Cubano
2: Properly cooked, but the bread was too thick.
1.5: No pickles and barely any mustard. But, mayo and butter?
2.5: Slightly thincut, but still tasty.
2.5: Just barely 2: Too much enough meat. bread put a damper on the flavor.
3238 W. Fullerton Ave., Chicago (773) 489-4440
4: With two sizes (7- or 10-inch), Señor Pan is an excellent value. TOTAL RATING: 4
Cafeteria Marianao
2246 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago (773) 278-4533
VALUE
TOTAL RATING: 3
2.5: A large sandwich, but not very satisfying. TOTAL RATING: 2
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Folklore Argentine Grill 2100 W. Division St., Chicago (773) 292-1600 You’d better come hungry to this new addition to the Tango Sur family of restaurants and bars – servings here are huge! El Filet alone is two 8-oz. cuts of meat. And Folklore’s lomo relleno can be shared by two people. But before you can dig in into those portions, they tempt you with a nice variety of empanadas as appetizers and an equally nice selection of desserts. You can kiss your diet goodbye, but it’ll be worth it.
Dig in! BYOB
ATM
Cash only
CENTRAL AMERICAN Buen Sabor 4911 N. Western Ave., Chicago (773) 878-1001 This new Salvadoran restaurant joins the ranks of Chicago’s select and finger-licking-good pupuserías. Filling options include pork, chicken, beans, cheese and loroco (an edible herb native to Central America), all served with salsas and El Salvador’s answer to cole slaw, el curtido. Other antojitos include empanadas de leche, tamales and pastelitos. But if you’re really hungry, you can always go for the fried fish or the chicken stew.
Irazú 1865 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago (773) 252-5687, www.irazuchicago.com Try the chicken casado, served with gallo pinto (rice and beans), sweet plantains, an over-easy egg and a cabbage salad. Big and delicious burritos and sandwiches also served. People swear by the oatmeal shakes.
Credit cards accepted
Mayan Sol Latin Grill 3830 W. Lawrence Ave., Chicago (773) 539-4398 Marinated grilled beef and chicken served with rice, beans, plátano maduro (sweet fried plantain), yucca, potato and guacamole. CUBAN 90 Miles Cuban Café 3101 N. Clybourn Ave., Chicago (773) 248-2822, www.90milescubancafe.com This is Cuban sandwich heaven; from the medianoche, the traditional Cuban sandwich or even the timba (guava and Swiss cheese) and the restaurants own sandwich de lechón, your cravings will be fully satisfied. There are also more substantial plates on the menu such as the ropa vieja.
Cafe 28 1800 W. Irving Park Rd., Chicago (773) 528-2883, www.cafe28.org Go for the “Taste of Cuba”
76 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
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appetizer. Leave some room for the ropa vieja, the arroz con pollo, the grilled shrimp quesadillas or the chipotle grilled chicken and green tamales. Wash it all down with the traditional café cubano. Cafecito 26 E. Congress Pkwy., Chicago (312) 922-2233 A restaurant for people who work downtown or are visiting one of its many museums and attractions and suddenly develop an urgent craving for a sandwich cubano. Try the steak chimichurri or the choripán (Spanish chorizo with grilled onions and chimichurri). MEXICAN Don Diablo Restaurant 3749 W. Fullerton Ave., Chicago (773) 489-3748, dondiablorestaurant.com After a brief stint as a taquería, Don Diablo recently reopened as a full-fledged restaurant, although chef and owner Angel Hernández has not given up
on the tacos. He has split his appetizer menu in two (Botana and Botana del Mar) and his entrée menu in three (Del Mar, Del Corral and Del Huerto). Highlights include borregos en salsa borracha (roasted lamb chops served in a drunken sauce made from chile pasilla, Negra Modelo beer and tequila), chiles rellenos de queso and camarones diabla (black tiger shrimp sautéed with poblano peppers, fresh tomato and spicy three-chiles red salsa).
Guanajuato 73 Green Bay Road, Glencoe (847) 242-0909 So long Wholly Guacamole, hello Guanajuato. Still serving such core dishes as the enchiladas San Miguel (choice of cheese, chicken or steak lightly sautéed in a rich red sauce), the restaurant will also add some new touches to its menu, including exotic desserts such as homemade avocado ice cream.
La Fonda del Gusto 1408 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago (773) 278-6100
RESTAURANTGUIDE What once used to be a popular taquería is now a full-grown restaurant. You will find such traditional fare as tacos, tortas and burritos, as well as more seasonal food such as the albóndigas de Jalisco (meatballs in a rich herb, tomato broth) and seared red snapper with Veracruz sauce.
Mom’s Old Recipe Mexican Restaurant 5760 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago (773) 467-1009 You’ve heard the phrase “as good as Mom’s” in describing a specific dish. Well, the dishes at this Mexican restaurant were actually created by a mom – in this case, Malena Basave’s and Ana Arriaga’s. Highlights include molletes (slices of bolillo bread layered with beans and pico de gallo), garlic shrimp, huarachitos and assorted moles to go along with your enchiladas.
Taco Chino 4712 N. Kimball Ave., Chicago (773) 866-1530 Korea meets Mexico in this Albany Park restaurant. While you could still go for the more traditional tortas, quesadillas and tacos, you should really order the pork and kimchi (fermented vegetables) taco, as well as the spicy seafood noodles.
PUERTO RICAN Borinquen 1720 N. California Ave., Chicago (773) 227-6038 Home of the original jibarito sandwich (fried green plantains with meat, lettuce and tomato). Vegetarian options available. All the classic frituras (fried treats) are also included in the menu. Coco 2723 W. Division St., Chicago (773) 384-4811 www.cocochicago.com
This upscale Puerto Rican restaurant is the kind of place where you can meet new friends and stay after a good meal to dance those extra calories away. Start your meal with one of two bandejas de Coco, samplers of Coco’s extensive appetizer menu. Follow it up with such Puerto Rican classics like mofongo (with your choice of fillings) or the asopao. Or, if you’re feeling more adventurous, try the escudo boricua (lamb chops served in a zesty papaya sauce).
SOUTH AMERICAN Aripo’s Venezuelan Arepa House 118 N. Marion St., Oak Park (708) 386-1313 aripos.com If you are a big fan of the Venezuelan arepa (corn cake), Aripo’s Venezuelan Arepa House will most definitely satisfy your craving. Go for the stuffed
arepas: La Sifrina (slice of ham or turkey with cheddar cheese), La Nuestra (shredded beef, black beans, fried plantains and crumbled white cheese), and the choriarepa (sautéed chorizo with diced potatoes) are among the 19 varieties.
Al Primo Canto 5414 W. Devon Ave., Chicago 749 N. Clark St., Chicago (773) 631-0100 (Devon Ave.) (312) 280-9090 (Clark St.) www.alprimocanto.com The galeto al primo canto is this restaurant’s specialty: young chickens marinated in white wine, garlic, rosemary and sage. The all-you-can-eat menu is only $29.95 per person and the food is delivered to your table nonstop like in the best churrasquerías. Side dishes include: parmesantopped polenta, spaghetti with mushrooms and roasted eggplant.
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caféblend
De La Soul
Moby
merging ofmusic photos
Damien Marley
NAS Nas
Karthik Suhir and Alberto Treviño
Nearly 80,000 people attended the first annual North Coast Music Festival Sept., 3-5 at Union Park in Chicago. Musical acts from the electronic, jam and hip-hop genres made an appearance to appease the hunger of an audience that understands the influence that the three genres have on one another. Among the performing artists were Moby, De La Soul, The Chemical Brothers, Lupe Fiasco and Loyal Divide.
Noys Noize
Grace Potters and the Nocturnals
78 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
Future Rock
Mayor Hawthorne
SOCIALES
ecoparty photos
Elia L. Alamillo
Members of the Society of Urban Nature and the auxiliary board of the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum celebrated the 2010 Helios Bash, an eco-friendly fundraiser, Aug. 20. The event was planned with the Nature Museum’s commitment to nature and the environment in mind.
Ben Hoban, Jennifer Kushto, Suneer Mahesawary, Laura Forster
| photos Danny Rico |
Lisa Szkatulski, Beck Adams & Jenna Szkatulski
2010 Helios Bash
Rodrigo Esponda and Michael Kutza 2010 Helios Bash
Al and Micheline Bonavolonta
onemanforchicago photos
Keila Martinez
Twenty finalists vied to become “One Man Chicago,” but only one won the crown: William Burfeind. The competition aimed to identify the man who best represents the city in community involvement, intellect, character and fitness. The event took place Sept. 2 at the Harris Theatre. Burfeind won $5,000 for his chosen charity, Prevent Blindness America.
William Burfeind
Model wearing designer James de Emily Adams Colón’s dress tribute Rita Briese Moreno and to Nicole
Nick Karavites, Rob Calvin, Matt Matros, Dan Balanoff
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caféBLEND | TALK BACK
Café Media Welcome to Talk Back, a page dedicated to highlighting the best comments from our Facebook Fan pages. We recently asked our fans how they felt about political cartoonist Daryl Cagle’s illustration of bullet holes across the Mexican flag and a murdered eagle in a pool of blood in a cartoon on violence in Mexico. Did he hit the nail on the head or totally miss the mark by disrespecting the flag? ¿Cómo ves? Yvonne Herrera Daryl Cagle must not care if this were to be done to an American flag...just like here, there are laws [in Mexico]; there is a level of respect that has to be given to a country’s flag. Shame on him. There are other ways to bring certain issues to light. Bernice Montesinos Yes, it was very disrespectful, but I think that was the point! Everyone is on survival mode 24/7/365 while the politicians do nothing but make promises that they can’t possibly keep. Ask the people of Mexico if they don’t feel just like that eagle when they or someone they love gets robbed, kidnapped, tortured, or beheaded and dumped in the middle of a busy intersection for everyone to see. Joel Sanchez Pasado I think he missed the mark. It generalizes and hits the cords of something that is very personal to all Mexicans, not only those who are disgracing our country – because they could care less. It is sad to see what is happening, but let’s not antagonize an entire nation for the sins of a few.
Cesar M. Saenz, Chicago I believe it totally missed the mark – the eagle on the flag represents the spirit of the people, the surpassing of good over evil. It’s the pride of our people. The Mexican people are strong and are going through turmoil, but they are not dead and will never die. The violence is there but the determination of its inhabitants and past revolutions that they have won show their strength, and this is just another obstacle to make the country great – not one that will bring it to its casket. Fabian Resendiz Sometimes you need to offend to prove a point and get people’s attention even if it means to ridicule, because every day, men, women and children are dying for a senseless war. We should be upset at our government and not a cartoonist for making the reality that is the drug cartel. Nevertheless, we always try to find a scapegoat to our problems. If nobody cares about our country, people with greedy ideas and destructive thoughts will take over. The drug cartel is just another fascist regime trying to take over the country. Let’s put an end to this and worry about something other than a cartoonist. Fight the real enemy.
Join in the conversation on Facebook by becoming a fan of Café Media at www.facebook.com/cafemedia. Comments may be edited for space and clarity.
80 Café OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2010
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