Cafe Culture Magazine Issue 44

Page 43

There were of course many other cool bits of

and 2015. This year’s competition in Dublin saw

further means to provide coffee with a defined

many baristas select their amazing green coffee

profile. For the competitor like Yoshikazu, this

kit used across the competition this year, and I

from the champions of progressive farming

obviously allows a selection of coffees that

have to throw a shout out here to Ben Put of

and processing, Ninety Plus. While this rarefied

will achieve a very specific cup profile. For us

Canada, placing third, who used his returning

group of incredibly expensive microlots does

as roasters and specialty coffee professionals,

vacuum chamber to remove carbonic acid from

not represent the majority of coffee produced,

however, this also suggests an approach to secure

his espresso drinks, as well as a custom made

it does provide a valuable platform to showcase

coffee that is exaggerated and expressive for our

pressurised syphon to create a “full immersion

the super pointy edge of innovative producer

customers, presenting a consistent approach to

espresso” for his signature course, pushing higher

practices.

producing new flavour experiences.

extraction and boosting Malic acidity. For aspiring

WCE Dublin saw a focus in many performances

Varietal and processing have undoubtedly

on presenting what’s being tentatively labelled as

been a feature of the competition world for a

the “4th Wave” of producer driven innovation in

few years and

the specialty coffee industry. This concentration

have, at a basic

on how a chosen coffee came to taste as

level, become

described in the cup advanced the competitive

part of the café to

conversation beyond where the coffee came from

consumer lexicon.

and very much towards varietal and processing.

The exploration of

VARIETAL

these areas within

Top six finalist Lex Wenneker of the

THE DRIVE TO BE MORE CONSISTENT, MANIPULATE EXTRACTION, WORK FASTER OR SIMPLY BE TIDIER SEES THE USE OF EQUIPMENT DESIGNED FOR THIS PURPOSE OR RETOOLED FOR OUR INDUSTRY.

WBC will likely see further efforts into innovation at farm level,

to service in the wine world in perhaps the most

along with a slow outpouring of knowledge and

varietal-central performance of the competition.

appreciation to the specialty coffee consumer. I often liken the WBC to Formula One racing,

estate, Las Margaritas. They were all from the

in the way that it leads innovation that then

same harvest and all processed naturally; however,

trickles down to the wider industry. The average

each course was a different varietal. Accompanied

consumer may not know where these innovations

by a filter brew of each served in a wine glass,

came from, but can still appreciate their

Lex focused on how our service of select varietals

incorporation into a personal experience.

could translate at a consumer level by highlighting

SO WHAT DID WE SEE THIS YEAR THAT IS LIKELY

specific sensory experiences in each of the Sudan

TO APPEAR IN SPECIALTY COFFEE SHOPS

Rume, Geisha and Pacamara variety brews he

ACROSS THE GLOBE?

served. Varietal separation and specific varietal selection are becoming more commonplace

a watch, as it provides an amazing summation of both coffee

Netherlands compared specialty coffee varieties

Lex selected three coffees from one Colombian

competitors, Ben’s performance is definitely worth

Rivalling each other for most utilised coffee tool were the OCD and Acaia scales.

knowledge and progressive barista technique by, as he states, taking risks. As well as representing

producers, the performances at the WBC are a great outlet for equipment innovation. The drive to be more consistent, manipulate extraction, work faster or simply be tidier sees the use of equipment designed for this purpose or retooled for our industry. The EK43 was primarily a deli grinder before Matt Perger and Charles Babinski dragged it kicking and screaming into the world of espresso. It is now of course one of two compulsory sponsor grinders! Of note, the Puq Press made a couple of appearances this year, with technology further tightening dose and tamp technique. Competitors may well be giving over one of their two allowed electrical devices this

with progressive specialty coffee producers, but

Both made appearances last year with a few

unless we can translate this effort and expense

competitors, but this year were almost ubiquitous

to the café customer, it will remain the demand

on the benches of each national champion. The

of roasters, coffee geeks and competitors rather

OCD is a levelling tool which in the competition

than a sustainable option for the wider producing

environment simplifies achieving consistency on

community. Performances such as Lex’s bring this

the technical scoresheet; it makes it that much

conversation to the fore.

easier for a technical judge to agree that the

concepts, flavours and community expressed at

PROCESSING

levelling technique is effective. Consistent dosing

these events have over the years continued to

and tamping does of course have import in the

inspire me as a coffee professional and excite

Iwaze was unique, as he blended or “interwove”

café environment, reducing channelling and

me about the industry’s future. Whilst the

two coffees together for his drinks. Using two

promoting evenness of extraction, which will

competition format is by no means perfect in its

different grinders to achieve specific particle

likely see the OCD become de rigueur on many

representation of the wider specialty coffee world,

size and extractions, Yoshikazu mixed differing

specialty café stations.

it does undoubtedly provide a unique forum for

The second placing performance of Yoshikazu

percentages, after grinding, of each Ninety

As well as selecting amazing coffee, the barista

competition season to this neat bit of kit. As a Head Judge at the World Barista Championship, I am obviously a disciple of its value within the specialty coffee ecosystem. Beyond the examples I’ve given above, the

innovation and evolution of coffee, technology and the barista craft.

Plus coffee. These coffees were a marriage

competition is also about what the barista has

of two varietals but more interestingly, two

done to create the sensory experience. This

opposite processing methods when it came to

has come to see brew ratios become common

or debating throwing your hat in the ring, I’d

fermentation of the cherry. The Panama Geisha

language, often changing from one course to

heartily encourage you to do so - whether as a

enjoyed a low temperature fermentation, gaining

the next. Accurate brew ratios of course require

competitor, spectator, judge or volunteer.

balance and complexity through an extended

accurate scales, and Acaia were very much the

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

process of “cold fermentation”. The single varietal

most commonly used tool for this. Whether

Brydon Price, a proud Kiwi ex-pat, is a WCE

Ethiopian selection had, in contrast, gone through

weighing doses and signature drink ingredients

Representative and Head Judge plus certified Q

a “melted fermentation”, high temperature

with the Acaia Pearl or weighing out extraction

Grader. A passionate specialty coffee ambassador,

and less time. This deliberate innovation in the

with the Acaia Luna, these scales were this year

he leads Sales and Account Management for Five

processing of specialty coffees gives producers a

an almost inevitable piece of kit.

Senses Coffee in Victoria and Tasmania.

If you’ve been wondering what it’s all about


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