swing_set_plans_space_station by Bill Calhoun

SPACE STATION SWINGSET KIT

INTRODUCTION Thanks for signing up for our free swing set plans! Your kids will love the finished product, and we hope that you will enjoy the process of Building-YourOwn Swingset. We have planned this project so that most people with basic carpentry skills should have little difficulty. We have also taken extra effort to make sure our instructions are easy-to-follow, so donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worry. Chapter 1 of this manual provides all of the background information that you will need to complete this project, including fort site preparation, how to purchase lumber, and tools and techniques. Chapter 2 consists of the step-by-step building instructions for completing the fort. We have included detailed written instructions to accompany the full-page diagrams for the project. Chapter 3 is a short chapter on maintaining and finishing your fort. Where do you start? Your first step should be to briefly read through Chapter 1 to understand the fundamentals of the project. Once you have done this, use Tables 1A and 1B to purchase your lumber and any tools that you do not have access to. You should also take Table 2 if you are planning to have the hardware store make some of the lumber cuts for you. After you have purchased your lumber, plan on about 15 hours to build your fort. All swings, hardware, accessories and add-ons are available on our website, www.byoswingset.com for purchase. Please click here to go to see what accessories you need to complete your new fort! Good luck and let us know if you have any problems! Email: info@byoswingset.com Toll Free: 1-877-777-8144 When you have finished building your swing set, please email or post a picture of your new backyard fun zone on our facebook page.

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IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION GENERAL ASSEMBLY: 1. This swingset should be built on level ground, not less than 6 feet from any structure or obstruction, such as a fence, garage, house, overhanging branches, laundry lines, or electrical wires. 2. Do not build this swingset over concrete, asphalt, packed earth, or any other hard surface. A fall onto a hard surface can result in serious injury to the equipment user. 3. In order to prevent serious injury, children must not use the equipment until properly assembled per these instructions. 4. The maximum fall height for this product is 8 feet. Please refer to the Consumer Product Safety Commission's information sheet on playground surfacing material in these instructions. This information will help you determine the proper amount of surfacing material required to make your play area safe.

OPERATING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: Observing the following statements and warnings reduces the likelihood of serious or fatal injury: 1. This equipment is designed for children ages 2-12, with a single occupant weighing no more than 125 lbs. 2. Children playing on this equipment should have on-site adult supervision at all times. Adults should carefully instruct and teach children the following important safety rules before allowing them to play on equipment: 3. Do not to walk close to, in front of, behind, or between moving items. 4. Do not twist swing chains or ropes or loop them over the swing beam since this may reduce the strength of the chain or rope. 5. Avoid swinging empty seats. 6. Sit in the center of the swings with your full weight on the seats. 7. Do not use the equipment in any manner other than the intended. 8. Never get off the equipment while it is in motion. 9. Adults should dress children appropriately and avoid ponchos, scarfs, and other loose-fitting clothing that is potentially hazardous while using equipment. 10. Do not climb on or use the equipment when it is wet. 11. Do not attach items to the playground equipment that are not specifically designed for use with the equipment, such as, but not limited to, jump ropes, clothelines, pet leashes, cables, and chain as they may cause a strangulation.

Consumer Product Safety Commission Playground Surfacing Recommendations Each year, about 200,000 children are treated in U.S. hospital emergency rooms for playground equipment-related injuries - an estimated 148,000 of these injuries involve public playground equipment and an estimated 51,000 involve home playground equipment. Also, about 15 children die each year as a result of playground equipmentrelated incidents. Most of the injuries are the result of falls. These are primarily falls to the ground below the equipment, but falls from one piece of equipment to another are also reported. Most of the deaths are due to strangulations, though some are due to falls. 1. Protective Surfacing - Since almost 60% of all injuries are caused by falls to the ground, protective surfacing under and around all playground equipment can reduce the risk of serious head injury. Falls on asphalt and concrete can result in serious head injury and death. Do not place playground equipment over these surfaces. Also grass and turf lose their ability to absorb shock through wear and environmental conditions. Always use protective surfacing. Certain loose-fill surfacing materials are acceptable, such as the types and depths shown in the table. Certain manufactured synthetic surfaces also are acceptable; however, test data on shock absorbing performance should be requested from the manufacturer. =============================================================== Fall Height In Feet From Which A Life Threatening Head Injury Would NOT be Expected ---------------------------------------------------------------Type of Material

6 "Depth

9 " Depth

Double Shredded Bark Mulch Wood Chips Fine Sand Fine Gravel

6 7 5 6

10 10 5 7

12" Depth 11 11 9 10

Parent Woodworking Safety Working with powertools and heavy lumber can be dangerous activities. You should take every precaution, including following all tool manufacturers guidelines and using the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Tools and Techniquesâ&#x20AC;? section of this manual for tips. Always wear safety goggles when drilling, powersawing, or routing wood. It is also a good idea to wear gloves to prevent splinters in your hand. As with any project, good judgement and a healthy respect for all powertools required for this project would reduce your risk of injury

NOTICE The information in these plans is presented in good faith; however, results can vary depending on user's level of skill. Furthermore, instructions are meant to be safe, and all safety instructions, including those given by tool manufacturers, should be followed. B.Y.O. Products, Inc disclaims any liability incurred in connection with the use of these plans if they are not followed exactly, and in no event shall B.Y.O. Products be liable for amounts greater than the sales price of this order.

CHAPTER 1: GETTING READY A. Site Layout and Preparation It is important to take the time to find the perfect place for your new swingset. For the Space Station design (with both slides), you will need to have a space that is 29’ x 33-1/2’. This includes the extra 6’ safety zone that the Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends. See Diagram 1A for a detailed footprint. In general, you should try to find a relatively level area for the set. The area that the fort sits on must be completely level, even if that means doing a little digging or building up. You can use a string level (see Part C of this chapter) to determine if a large area is level or not. You should also consider the shading pattern of the area. It is not ideal to have a play area that is in the sun continuously. A little bit of shade can make playing on those hot summer days much more enjoyable. Finally, if you live in a neighborhood with a homeowner’s association (H.O.A.), you should check ahead of time to find out if there are any rules regarding building a structure in your yard. Many H.O.A.’s will require that you submit a site plan as well as an idea of what the set will look like. By checking out the H.O.A. requirements ahead of time, you could save yourself some headache later. B. Purchasing Lumber WOOD TYPES Pressure-treated southern yellow pine is one of the strongest, hardest, most decay resistant woods available. It is also very cost effective. We recommend using a non-CCA treated wood, such as the ones sold under the brand names of ACQ Preserve, Osmose Naturewood, or Wolmanized Natural Select. Cedar and Redwood are the other two common types of wood used in swingsets. Neither are as strong as Pine. Some of our customers have used pine for the structural members of the swingset (4x4 and 4x6) and used redwood or cedar for the nonstructural members. Check

with your local lumberyard to find out if a suitable alternative is available. Pressure treated wood has been chemically treated to protect it from rotting, termites, and other forms of decay. Manufacturers treat the lumber by using a pressurized injection method that forces a mixture of water and chemicals into the wood. Until recently, the most common form of chemical treatment is CCA, or Chromated Copper Arsenate. The use of CCA treated lumber has been phased out for most applications. It is being replaced with an alternative treatment called ACQ that should be available in most lumber yards. Many experts believe that this treatment is more environmentally friendly and safer than CCA treated lumber. When working with pressure treated lumber (as well as many other types of lumber), it is recommended that you observe the following precautions: 1. When sawing and machining treated wood, wear a dust mask. Whenever possible, these operations should be performed outdoors to avoid indoor accumulations of airborne sawdust from treated wood. 2. When power-sawing and machining, wear goggles to protect eyes from flying particles. 3. After working with the wood, and before eating, drinking, and use of tobacco products, wash exposed areas thoroughly. 4. If preservatives or sawdust accumulate on clothes, launder before reuse. Wash work clothes separately from other household clothing. 5. You can dispose of treated wood with ordinary trash collection; however, you should not burn the wood. If you want to find out more information about pressure treated wood, there are several sources available on the web. - www.awpi.org (American Wood Preservers Institute) - www.southernpine.com/treated.htm (Southern Pine Council)

DIMENSIONS AND GRADING Did you know that if you buy a 4”x4”x8’ post at your local lumber or hardware supply store, the actual dimensions of that lumber will be about 3.5"x3.5"x8.2”? This illustrates the difference between nominal and actual dimensions in the lumber industry, and although this is an industry standard, it can cause confusion to consumers. The dimension quoted by the lumber or hardware store is always the nominal dimension. This is the dimension

that is cut from the tree. However, after being cut, the lumber is surfaced to make it smooth and flat and also dried, with the final result being a reduction in the lumber dimensions. The following table illustrates nominal vs. actual dimensions for some of the size lumber you will be using for this project. NOMINAL DIMENSION 4x6 4x4 2x6 2x4 5/4x6

ACTUAL DIMENSION 3½x5½ 3½x3½ 1½x5½ 1½x3½ 1x5½

All lumber is graded and stamped based on several physical characteristics of the lumber itself. Imperfections such as knots, bowing, twisting, and splitting all reduce the grade of lumber. The higher the grade numbers, the worse the lumber quality. For example, a Grade 2 lumber has more defects than a Grade 1 lumber. Even within the same lumber grade, there can be variation in the quality of the lumber. This is why it is very important for you to visually inspect the lumber before you purchase it to make sure that you are getting the best pieces available. MAKING YOUR PURCHASE Taking the time to purchase quality lumber will pay off later when you are assembling the swingset and fort. For your convenience, there is a lumber material sheet (Table 1A) that you can use in purchasing your lumber. You can choose a lumberyard, a local hardware store, or a national chain hardware warehouse to provide your lumber. If you choose to have a lumberyard deliver to you, make sure that you understand their return policy for lumber. If you choose a local lumber supply store, you may want to call ahead just to make sure that they have all of the sizes that you will need. You should reserve about one to two hours for shopping for your lumber. It is not advisable to shop on the weekends because this is the busiest time for home improvement centers and you may not get help if you need it. Plan to go on a weekday afternoon/evening if possible. During your trip to the hardware store, you can also buy any tools that you may not have access to. Take inventory of your current tools and compare it to the requirement list

(Table 1B) before you go to buy your lumber so that you can buy everything at once. It is also helpful to take someone with you to purchase the lumber. Some of the larger pieces can be heavy and hard to get off the shelf by yourself. Make sure that you inspect every piece for knots, straightness (look down the edge of the wood from one end to the other), or other defects. As far as grade is concerned, make sure that you get #2 or better. Purchase the best grade of wood that you can afford or that is available, especially for the fort walls and fort floor. Thomsonized wood, or other specially treated wood may be a good option because it is generally a better grade of wood. The best place to purchase the lumber for this kit that we have found is a hardware superstore such as Home Depot or Lowes. These stores are located in almost every state and usually carry all of the sizes required. While most stores should now have ACQ treated lumber available, you should call first to make sure. One of the advantages of going to these superstores is that some will cut lumber to length for a small charge (first two cuts are free, $0.25 for additional cuts). We recommend that you use this service for cutting your posts (4x4) to length. Use Tables 2A and 2B to determine the lengths you need. It can be difficult to cut these with a circular saw, and it will only take a few minutes to have the staff cut them for you with their professional equipment. Many hardware superstores also rent trucks right from the store premises for about $20 so that you can haul the lumber home if you do not have access to a pickup truck. Call your local hardware superstore to make sure that they provide these services in your area. Plan on letting the lumber dry for about 2 to 3 days BEFORE you start working with it. Pressure treated lumber can be wet coming out the store, which can make it very difficult to work with. Wet lumber will dull your tools and will also make it difficult to drill straight holes in thick pieces. Go ahead and plan that two to three days into your project schedule because it will be well worth it in the long run. You can use the time to find and prepare your swingset site (Section A of this Chapter).

C. Tools and Techniques TOOLS Table 1B contains a complete listing of all of the tools that are required to complete this project. You should be familiar with most of the tools on this list. Below are some notes about some of the tools: 1. Spade drill bits (or wood boring) are used for drilling long or wide holes. If you do not have these, you should be able to find them at most hardware stores. 2. We have sent you a square drive bit for driving decking screws. Using this bit will prevent stripping out decking screw heads and should make installing the screws much easier. 3. There are some excellent plastic folding sawhorses out on the market now. These can be folded and stored after use, unlike wooden sawhorses. They sell for around $30. 4. Unless you have a cordless drill (highly recommended), you will need a long extension cord to reach the swingset site. TECHNIQUES Measuring The two main tools that you will be using here are your tape measure and your combination square. For most measurements, you will be using the tape measure to mark the correct distance along the length of the lumber and the combination square to mark the correct distance along the width. Let’s say that you need to mark the centerpoint of a hole that is 32” from the end of a board and 1-1/2” from the side. First, you would use the tape measure to mark off the 32” along the side of the board. Next, you would loosen the adjustment screw on the combination square and adjust the ruler to the 11/2”. Finally, you would retighten the adjustment screw, push the combination square against the side of the wood, and make your mark.. You can also use the combination square to mark perpendicular (90 degree) and 45 degree angle cut lines across a board. To mark a perpendicular cut line, push the square edge flush with the edge of the wood and use the ruler as a guide to draw a straight line on the wood. To mark a 45 degree cut line (you will need to do this for the corner braces later), push the angled side of the combination square flush against the wood and mark along the ruler.

Cross Cutting: Cross cutting refers to cutting a piece of lumber across its width to make it shorter. After you have used your tape measure and combination square to make a cutline, you are ready to start cutting with your circular saw. Sawhorses will be required for this operation. Adjust the spacing between sawhorses until the wood that you are cutting is stable. Make sure that you position yourself so that you are cutting on the “waste” side of the guideline -- ie the side that you are cutting off. This prevents you from cutting a board too short. Occasionally, you will need to crosscut boards that are too short to fit on the sawhorses (the step supports for this project are an example). The best way to accomplish this would be to place a longer board across the sawhorses and then clamp the short board to be cut on top of the longer board, with the end to be cut hanging off of the long board. This should allow you to make the cut safely. Circular saws are notorious for “kickback” and binding. This can be dangerous, so it is very important to hold the saw with both handgrips whenever possible. You should also try to position yourself outside the area of potential kickback. If the saw binds near the end of your cut, try the following: 1. Let the saw stop and back it out of the wood 2. Turn the board over and finish the cut from the other direction. Rip Cutting Rip cutting refers to cutting a piece of lumber down its length to make it narrower. Make your cutline by using your combination square to mark the required width in a couple of places along the length of the board. Then use a long ruler to draw a cutline through the marks. Some circular saws come with a rip guide that can be adjusted to required ripping width. It is difficult to rip boards using a sawhorse. Instead, try placing the board to be ripped on top of some 4x4s placed on the ground. Secure the board that is to be ripped to the 4x4s, and use the circular saw to cut along your guideline. Drilling The two types of holes that you will be drilling are through-holes and countersunk holes. The first type of hole is relatively straightforward. You want to make sure that your drill is at a 90-degree angle to the wood so that

your hole will be straight. This is especially important when drilling thru holes into the posts. To make this task easier, you may want to try drilling the hole ½ through the post on one side and then turning the post over and drilling the other ½ through from that side. In either case, make sure that you hold the drill straight up and down to ensure a straight hole. If you are having a hard time penetrating the wood, you should pull the drill bit out and clean the wood shavings off in order to maximize cutting effectiveness. You can also try to move the drill bit in and out of the hole as you drill. Countersunk holes are really two holes in one. The purpose of countersunk holes is to “bury” bolt ends inside the wood. You will be using the 1-1/8” spade bit to drill the countersink portion. You can either eyeball the countersink depth, or you can place a piece of tape on the drill bit at the required depth. This will serve as a visual cue for you to stop drilling at that point. Once you have drilled the countersink portion of the hole, the remaining thru portion is drilled exactly like the holes described above. Rounding Wood Corners Using A Router We would highly recommend rounding the edges of all of your posts and 2’ x boards (you do not really need to route the decking and wall boards, although it will make them look better). This makes the swingset look much more professional and also gets rid of sharp edges. You will use a router with a 3/8"-1/2" radius roundover bit to do this. Routing sprays a lot of wood chips, so you may want to consider wearing a long sleeve shirt. Routing is very straightforward and simply involves positioning the router so that it the guideface is level on the wood and then pushing the router with both hands along the wood edges. It is more important to round the sides of the wood than it is to round the ends. Framing/Squaring Framing, or squaring, is the process of making sure connecting boards are level and square. A large carpenter’s framing square is the tool of choice for this task. As long as you cut and drill everything exactly according to the diagrams in these plans, squareness should not be an issue. However, you should check squareness periodically during the assembly process to doublecheck your drilling and cutting accuracy. Squareness can be checked by placing one edge of your framing square flat against the first piece of wood and then pressing the other edge of the square

against the second piece of wood. If you cannot press the both edges flat against the two pieces of wood, then they are not square relative to each other. You will have to adjust the two pieces until there are no gaps between the framing square and the wood. Leveling You should use the string level to check levelness of your planned swingset site. Place the string level on the string using the hooks on top of the level. While holding the string taut between two points, you can determine if the points are level with each other. By adjusting one end of the string up or down and measuring the difference, you can determine the exact slope. If your fort site is unlevel, you can then add dirt or shovel away dirt. If your swingset A-frame site is unlevel, you can either add or shovel away dirt, or you may want to think about making one leg of the set longer than the other one. Another option is to bolt a â&#x20AC;&#x153;footâ&#x20AC;? on the leg that is at a lower elevation.

CHAPTER 2. STEP-BY-STEP BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS A. Project Overview Once you have your site planned and your materials and tools laid out, you are ready to start building. From this point, you can expect to spend about 35-45 hours completing the project. For simplicity, the project has been broken down into the following phases: BUILD 5x5 FORT (13-15 hours) 1. Round wood corners using router (optional) 2. Cut wood to size and label 3. Drill wood and finish labeling 4. Assemble Fort base, floor 5. Assemble Fort walls, roof, and accessory beam 6. Assemble corner braces and ladder 7. Install slide, ladder, flags BUILD SWINGFRAME (7-10 hours) 1. Round wood corners using router (optional) 2. Cut wood to size and label 3. Drill wood and finish labeling 4. Assemble Swing legs 5. Assemble Swing beam 6. Install Swing accessories BUILD TURBO FORT (12-17 hours) 1. Round wood corners using router (optional) 2. Cut wood to size and label 3. Drill wood and finish labeling 4. Assemble Fort 5. Install Fort Accessories, BUILD PICNIC TABLE (3 hours) 1. Round wood corners using router 2. Cut wood to size and label 3. Drill wood 4. Assemble Picnic Table

B. Build 5x5 Fort STEP 1. ROUND WOOD CORNERS Rounding the wood edges will enhance the look of your swingset tremendously and will also eliminate sharp corners. You should go ahead and use your router to round all of the SIDES of the wood that you purchased. It is better to do this before you cut the wood to length because you will eliminate the changeover time of placing multiple short pieces of wood on the sawhorses instead of just routing one long piece. Do not route the ENDS until the wood is cut to length. STEP 2. CUT WOOD TO SIZE AND LABEL Remember the saying “measure twice and cut once.” Use Table 2A to cut the Fort wood to size. Note that the wood you purchase will not be exactly the length it is advertised. For instance, if you buy a 4x4x10’ post, it will most likely be slightly longer than 10’. Therefore, in order to make this into (2) 4x4x5’ posts, you cannot simply cut the 4x4x10’ post in half. It is very important to measure each piece after it is cut to make sure that it is the proper length. Labeling will help you remember which piece is which later when you start assembling the swingset. It is not absolutely necessary, but unless you have a perfect memory, it is recommended. Label each piece with your marking pencil. Draw the label on one end of the piece so that it will not be in the way of drilling operations later. STEP 3. DRILL AND FINISH LABELING WOOD (DIAGRAMS 2-16) Note: As a consistent convention in these diagrams, it is assumed that you are FACING the front of the fort/swingset. When the plans refer to “Left”, and “Right”, they are referencing your left and right if you are facing the swingset. Another way to remember this convention is to think of the swing side of the fort as the Right Side, and the accessory beam side as the Left side. REFER TO Diagram 1B FOR VISUAL DESCRIPTION OF THESE FORT ELEMENTS.

 Drill Fort Posts (Diagrams 2-5) These diagrams are probably the most critical in the whole project, so first take a few minutes to study them to make sure that you understand them. Also, take extra care in measuring and drilling in the following operations. The posts are designated as follows: #1 is the front left post, #2 the front right, #3 the back left, and #4 the back right (again assuming that you are FACING the fort/swingset). The first step is to label each face of each post with your pencil. The labeling corresponds with the appropriate side of the fort – ie the Front face of the post is on the Front of the fort, the Right face is on the Right side of the fort, and so on. It does not matter which side you choose to designate as the front side – just pick a face and put a small (F) near the bottom of the post. On that same (F) face, label the top (T) and the bottom (Bot). Next, while looking down at the front face and facing the top of the post, label the side on your left with an (L) and the side on your right with a (R). Finally, label the side opposite the front (F) side as (B) for back. See Diagram 2 for a pictorial view of this. Follow Diagrams 1-4 to measure and drill the holes in the fort posts. It can be difficult to drill the thru holes straight because of the length of the holes, so pay extra attention to these. You may want to consider drilling halfway through the one face and then turning the post over and marking and drilling halfway through to complete the hole.  Drill Roof Posts (Diagrams 6-7) Label the faces as you did for the fort posts. Measure and drill holes as shown  Drill Buttresses (Diagram 8) Inside face refers to the side of the buttress facing inside the fort, and likewise for the outside face. Be sure to note that these holes are COUNTERSUNK, and follow the diagram for drilling guidelines. For the countersunk portion, you may want to mark the required depth on your spade bit so that you will be able to visually determine drill depth while you are drilling.  Drill Sandbox Sides (Diagram 9) Because the holes in these pieces are not along the centerline of the board, you will need to label the Top and Bottom of each board. Drill according to diagram.

 Drill Mid-Platform Supports (Diagram 10) Label Top and Bottom of each support. Drill according to diagram.  Drill Lower Wall Supports (Diagram 11) Label Top and Bottom of each support. Drill according to diagram.  Drill Upper Wall Supports (Diagram 12) Label Top and Bottom of each support. Drill according to diagram.  Drill Swing Beam Support (Diagram 13) The first step is to place the two 2”x6”x5’ pieces together (6” sides facing each other – wood clamps may be necessary). Then, mark and drive decking screw according to the diagram. Fasten five screws from one piece of the support, and five screws from the other side of the assembly. This construction ensures that the two pieces are adequately held together. Next label the Top and Bottom of the support. The Outer face refers to the side that will be facing towards the outside of the fort. Drill the Outer face and Bottom face according to diagram. Note, the middle hole in the bottom face uses a 9/16" drill bit to accommodate the 1/2" bolt in that location.  Drill Front and Side Guard (Diagram 14)  Drill/Mark Ladder Sides (Diagram 15) First, drill the hole that will be used to bolt the ladder sides to the fort posts. Once this is done, mark the ladder sides with your pencil as shown. These marks will be used to position the step supports. Also, label the Top and Bottom of the sides.  Drill/Cut Corner Braces (Diagram 16) Drill corner braces as shown. You can use the combination square to mark the 45-degree angle. Because the braces are short, you may have to use the technique described in the cross cutting section description in Chapter 1.

STEP 4. ASSEMBLE FORT BASE AND FLOOR (Diagrams 17-20)  General Notes about Bolt Installation: 1. All nuts, lock washers, and flat washers that are included in the kit are the same size and will fit any bolt included in the kit. 2. All bolts are 3/8” diameter except the main swing beam bolt which is 1/2" diameter. There are several lengths of bolts included in the kit. They are designated by their shank length – ie the length from the head to the end of the bolt. Check the bolt reference list included in Table 1C and sort the bolts accordingly before beginning assembly. 3. Carriage Bolts - Carriage bolts do not have pointed ends like lag screws. The threaded end of the carriage bolts should be in the countersink portion of connecting piece. A flat washer, then lock washer, followed by a hex nut should be placed on the end of the bolt. The nut should be tightened using your 9/16” socket wrench. 4. Lag Screws – Lag screws have pointy ends. Lag screws should be tightened with a flat washer and lock washer next to the head. The head will always be placed into the countersink in the wood. NOTE: In the assembly diagrams, a circle with an X in it represents a bolt head. This means the bolt is going into the plane of the paper. An open circle means the bolt is coming out of the plane of the paper.  Assemble Sandbox Sides and Buttresses (Diagram 17) Attach the Front Buttress to Fort Posts 1 and 2 as shown. The outer face of the Buttress attaches to the back face of the posts using 7" Carriage bolts. The Sandbox Side inner face attaches to the Fort Post front faces (countersink facing out) using 4” lag screws.. Assemble the Back similarly.  Assemble Sandbox Sides and Buttresses (Diagram 18) You will need some help with this step. Move the two sections assembled previously to the fort site. Make sure that the fort site is level and all grass/weeds are removed if you plan on filling the sandbox area with sand. Hold the two sections upright about 5’ apart and bolt the remaining two sandbox sides on. This helps to make sure the posts are square. Next, bolt the two remaining buttresses on. Do a final check with your framing square to make sure that everything is square.  Assemble Roof Posts and Mid Platform Supports (Diagram 19) Bolt Front and Back Roof Posts onto respective Buttress using 7” carriage bolts. Use your framing square to make sure that the post is straight up and

down before completely tightening the bolts. Next bolt the mid platform supports (countersink facing out) to the roof posts using 4” lag screws.  Assemble Fort Floor Decking (Diagram 20) Use 2-1/2” decking screws to fasten floor boards to Buttresses and Mid Platform Supports. Make sure that the ends of the boards do not extend beyond the fort post outer faces because you will need to attach the side wall supports across this plane later. The floor boards are purposely cut slightly short to reduce the possibility of interference with the side wall supports. You can “eyeball” the screw pattern. The decking screws should not need predrilling.

STEP 5. ASSEMBLE FORT WALLS, ROOF, FRONT GUARD (Diagrams 21-24)  Assemble Side Wall Supports and Side Guard (Diagram 21) Bolt the Side Wall Supports and Side Guard to the fort structure making sure that the countersink face is facing out and paying attention to the Top and Bottom labels on the supports.  Assemble Fort Walls (Diagram 22) Fasten the Fort Wall boards to the inside of the Side Wall Supports using 21/2” decking screws. Note that the bottom of the Wall boards rest slightly above the floor boards and the tops should not extend above the Upper Side Wall Supports. You may have some difficulty with the bottom row of screws depending on how thick your drill is, so adjust screw position up if necessary.  Assemble Roof Boards and Roof Tarp (Diagram 23) Place the Roof Boards flat on the tops of the Fort Posts. Use the 2-1/2” decking screws (2 per post in the pattern shown) to fasten the boards to the posts. Predrill the snap holes for the left side of the tarp as shown on the underside of the roof boards with a 5/64” drill bit. Screw the snaps into the predrilled holes with a phillips screwdriver and attach the left side of the tarp. Next, stretch the roof tarp tight and mark the position of the screw snaps for the other side. See Diagram 24 for a Front View of Tarp and how it fits over roof boards.

 Assemble Front Guard (Diagram 24) STEP 6. ASSEMBLE CORNER BRACES , LADDER (Diagrams 25-27)  Assemble Corner Braces (Diagram 25) Bolt the Corner Braces onto the Side Buttresses. Place the angled side of the corner brace flush against the Fort Post. Make sure to predrill the decking screw holes to prevent splitting. Fasten with (2) 2-1/2" decking screws per corner brace.  Assemble Ladder Step Supports (Diagram 26) Align top of Step Supports with guidelines on Ladder Sides. While holding step support, predrill screwholes into step supports with 7/64” drill bit to avoid splitting wood. You do not need to predrill all the way into ladder sides. Tighten one decking screw so that it is started into the ladder side. Tighten the other decking screw all the way down, and then go back and finish tightening the first screw.  Assemble Ladder (Diagram 27) Lean Ladder Sides against Fort floor (Diagram 28) and line up the ends of the ladder sides with the inside faces of the fort posts. Place all of the Ladder Steps onto the Ladder Step Supports and push the Ladder Sides together as tightly as possible against the ladder steps. "Eyeball" decking screw position so that it hits the middle of the Ladder Step when tightened. There is no need to predrill these holes. Fasten all steps with 2 decking screws per step per side.

STEP 7. INSTALL SLIDE, LADDER, FLAGS (Diagram 28) Position ladder so that the tops of the ladder sides do not extend beyond the inside faces of the fort posts. Using a pencil, mark position of holes on fort posts for lag screws. Remove ladder and use 1/4" drill bit to drill a 2-1/2" pilot hole for the lag screws. Replace ladder and fasten with 4" lag screws. Install the slide using small decking screws provided. Install the flag with the 2” decking screws provided.

C. Build Swing Frame STEP 1. ROUND WOOD CORNERS See instructions under Section B of this Chapter. STEP 2. CUT WOOD TO SIZE AND LABEL Use Table 2B to cut wood to correct size. Again, remember, measure twice and cut once. STEP 3. DRILL WOOD AND FINISH LABELING (Diagrams 29-30)  Drill Swing Beam (Diagram 29) Standard Swing Hangers: Measure and drill holes for standard swing hangers through Bottom face of Swing Beam. Upgraded Wood Beam Hangers: Use the dimensions to position the wood beam hangers on the swing beam. Mark hole locations and drill 1/4" pilot holes in the beam. Do not drill through holes as indicated. Measure and drill holes for beam attachment through Top Face of Swing Beam. Note, the 9/16" hole in the Top Face for the 1/2" bolt.  Cut and Drill Swing Legs and Leg Braces (Diagram 30) Note: The dimensions in this diagram may look a little "funny." However, it is important that you mark these dimensions precisely. Mark the holes and draw the angled cutlines as shown. Because the swing leg posts are thick, you will need to adjust your circular saw cutting depth and you may even have to cut the posts from both sides. Once you have made the cut, label the top and bottom of the post and drill holes as shown. Follow the same procedure for the Mid Leg Brace. Follow the same procedure for BOTH top braces. STEP 4. ASSEMBLE SWING LEGS (Diagram 31) You may need some assistance with this step and Step 5. Go ahead and bring the swinglegs and braces to the swingset site. Assemble the Mid Leg Brace first with 4” lag screws as shown in the diagram. Next, assemble the upper braces by positioning the braces over the holes in the swinglegs and pushing 6-1/2” carriage bolts through both braces and the swinglegs. Place the nut and washer for each carriage bolt on the Outside face.

STEP 5. ASSEMBLE SWING BEAM (Diagram 32) NOTE: The swing beam is very heavy and hard to handle. You will need the help of at least one other person for this step. First, attach the triangular plate with 5 ½” carriage bolts through the outer holes and into the swing beam support. Next, raise the swing leg assembly (make sure it is in the right position on the site). Place the swing beam on the support and leg assembly (note, this can be tricky). Next, place the 10” carriage bolt through the Swing Beam hole and triangle bracket. Place a 5 ½” carriage bolt through the underside of center hole in the triangle bracket and through the underside of the beam. Finally, eyeball (these holes are not predrilled) the position of two 4” lag screws through each swing leg and into each side of the Swing Beam. Stagger them slightly to prevent them from overlapping. Predrill the pilot holes and insert the lag screws.

STEP 6. INSTALL SWING ACCESSORIES (Diagram 33) Push the standard swing hangers through the underside of the swing beam (use a hammer if necessary). Place a washer and locknut on the other end and tighten. If installing wood beam hangers, attach hangers to swing beam with 4-1/2" lag screws. Place the quicklinks on each swing. Slip the ends of the swingchains into the quicklinks. Adjust height if necessary. Install the glider per the separate glider instructions.

D. BUILD TURBO FORT STEP 1. Cut Wood to Size Table 1B is a complete listing of all of the bolts needed to complete this portion of the project – you will not need to purchase additional hardware. Use Table 2A to cut the wood for the Turbo Fort. Please note the exceptions to the table if you are adding the Turbo Slide. STEP 2. Drill Turbo Fort Posts (Diagram T1-T3) The labeling of the faces of the posts corresponds with the appropriate side of the fort (always assumes that you are facing the FRONT of the fort). This labeling convention is followed throughout these plans for consistency. STEP 3. Drill Front Posts/Spacer (Diagram T4A, 4B) Drill per the diagrams. Note the countersink depth of 1-1/2” for the spacer. STEP 4. Drill various supports (Diagrams T5-T9) STEP 5. Assemble Turbo Fort Back Wall Structure (Diagram T10) Complete this assembly very near the site so that you do not have to drag it over when completed. It will be very heavy. Attach the Back Wall supports with 4” lag screws. If you are adding the turbo slide, attach (1) TSS2 to the back side (outside) of the 7’ deck post. This should fit between the upper and lower wall support to make a level surface. Attach one TSS1 to the inside of the wall supports (place it flush against the middle fort post). Attach (1) TSS2 to the outside of the TSS1. Again, it should create a level surface to attach the Turbo Slide. STEP 6. Assemble Turbo Fort Front Posts (Diagram T11) You will be attaching the front posts of the turbo fort to the back posts of the 5x5 fort. Drill the holes where shown in the back posts of the 5x5 fort and attach the turbo fort posts with 7” carriage bolts. The turbo fort posts should stick up above the original 5x5 fort posts by about 2 feet. Attach the spacer to the other side (inside face) of the back left fort post. This creates a level surface for attaching the front upper wall support. STEP 7. Assemble Turbo Fort Front Wall (Diagram T12) Attach all of the wall supports to the INSIDE faces of the original 5x5 fort posts. Attach the front walls to the outside face of the supports.

STEP 8. Assemble Floor and Side Wall Supports (Diagram T13A, T13B) This step will take two people. Hold the turbo fort back wall structure upright so that both of the side posts are 36” from the 5x5 fort. Attach the floor supports (note that they extend all the wall to the original back fort posts of the 5x5 fort). You will need to drill additional ¼” diameter pilot holes in the back fort posts of the 5x5 fort so that you can attach the floor supports. Attach the lower and upper wall supports. The details of the connections for the middle posts are detailed in Diagram T13B. STEP 9. Assemble Floor and Side Wall Supports (Diagram T13B) This diagram shows only the middle fort post of the Turbo fort and the roof post/front middle roof post. Attach supports/safety guard where shown. STEP 10. Assemble Turbo Fort Walls (Diagram T14) Attach wall boards where shown using 2-1/2” decking screws. Predrill 7/16” holes in Bubble Panel (3 equally spaced per side). Attach to Right Side of Turbo Fort with 2” lag screws. STEP 11. Assemble Fort Floor Decking (Diagram T15) Attach the floor for the 7’ and 6’ decks using 2-1/2” decking screws. STEP 12. Assemble Roof Boards and Roof Tarp (Diagram T16) Place the roof boards on top of the fort posts. Note that the roof board on the side of the 7’ deck should be slightly offcenter to leave space for the tarp to fit in between it and the upper wall support. Attach the roof boards with 2-1/2” decking screws. Attach (2) tarp studs to the underside of one of the side roof boards. Use the tarp as a guide for placement. Screw the studs in and attach one tarp side. Stretch the tarp across the roof boards and mark the location of the remaining snaps. Install screw studs and finish attaching tarp.

E: BUILD PICNIC TABLE STEP 1. Cut Wood to Size TABLE 1. CUT WOOD TO LENGTH FOR TURBO FORT PICNIC TABLE Description Supports Benches 5x5 Fort End Bench Turbo Fort End Bench Support Blocks Table Table

Size as Purchased 2x4x8 2x4x10

2x6x8 2x6x10

Qty Purchased 2 2x4x39-1/2" 3 2x4x5' 2x4x52-1/2" 2x4x24-1/2" 2x4x3-1/2" 1 2x6x5' 1 2x6x5'

Cut to Size

STEP 2. Drill and Assemble Picnic Table Supports (Diagram P1) Drill all (4) supports as shown. Assemble the supports to the inside of the turbo fort posts using 4” lag screws. STEP 3. Install Support Blocks, Benches, and Table (Diagram P2) Attach the support blocks to the both sides of the middle Turbo Fort Post with 4” lag screws. Install the benches onto the lower supports using (2) decking screws per side. Install the table onto the upper supports using (2) decking screws per side.

Cut to Qty 4 4 1 2 2 1 2

CHAPTER 3. Maintaining Your Set A. Finishing Pressure treating wood does not protect it from moisture and the sun's UV rays. This means that you will need to apply a combination stain/water repellant that contains U.V. blockers to your swingset. You should apply the first coat a few weeks after you have completed the project and reapply every few years thereafter for optimum durability. The first step is to prepare the surface of your swingset by spraying it down with a hard stream of water from your garden hose to remove any debris and dirt. If you are very overdue on your finish job and the swingset is filthy, you should clean the surface with a deck cleaning solution. An oil or acrylic based semi-transparent stain with water repellant and U.V. blockers is your best choice for finishing your swingset. These stains are commonly sold as "deck and siding stains". You will need one gallon to apply one coat to your swingset. Read the manufacturer's instructions to determine how to apply the stain and how often to reapply. We recommend that you use a 1-1/2 to 2" brush, as opposed to a roller or sprayer, to finish your set. If you have already installed your swingset accessories, remove them to prevent them from getting splattered with paint. It will probably take two people about 3-4 hours to apply one coat to the swingset. B. Maintenance You should inspect your swingset about twice monthly during the usage season. This should involve tightening nuts, inspecting ropes and chains, and looking for splinters. The wood on your swingset will probably shrink the most during the first month, so do not be surprised if the nuts are especially loose for the first inspection. In harsh cold climates, the swings and ropes should be taken inside when the temperature is below freezing for an extended period of time.

NOTES:

TABLE 1. CUT WOOD TO LENGTH FOR TURBO FORT PICNIC TABLE Description Supports Benches 5x5 Fort End Bench Turbo Fort End Bench Support Blocks Table Table

Size as Purchased 2x4x8 2x4x10

2x6x8 2x6x10

Qty Purchased 2 2x4x39-1/2" 3 2x4x5' 2x4x52-1/2" 2x4x24-1/2" 2x4x3-1/2" 1 2x6x5' 1 2x6x5'

Cut to Size

Cut to Qty 4 4 1 2 2 1 2

Table 1A. Space Station Wood Material List 5x5 Fort Turbo Fort Picnic Table Total Size Qty Qty Qty Qty 4x6x12 1 0 1 4x4x8 4 0 4 4x4x10 4 4 8 4x4x12 1 1 2 2x4x8 2 1 2 5 2x4x10 4 0 3 7 2x4x12 1 2 3 2x6x8 3 3 1 7 2x6x10 4 0 1 5 2x6x12 0 1 1 5/4x6x10 9 8 17 5/4x6x12 0 2 2 * Use 2x6 is 5/4x6 not available * Sandbox takes about (10) 50 lb bags of sand * Add (2) 2x4x8 and delete (1) 5/4x6x10 if adding Turbo Slide

TABLE 1B. TOOLS REQUIRED TO COMPLETE THE PROJECT Required: Circular Saw w/ all-purpose blade (carbide tipped preferred) Electric Drill (cordless preferred) 1-1/8", 7/16", 9/16", 7/8" diameter spade drill bit 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 5/32", 1/4" diameter twist drill bit (all come in standard set) Combination Square Tape Measure (at least 12' long) Extension cord (12' if you have a cordless drill, 50-100' otherwise) (2) Saw horses Socket wrench w/ 9/16" and 3/4" socket 9/16" wrench Hammer, Pencil Safety Glasses, Work Gloves, Dust Mask Recommended: Router w/ 3/8"-1/2" radius roundover bit Framing square String Level, String Sand Paper Wood Clamps

TABLE 1C. Space Station 5x5 Fort Bolt Reference List Type Lag Screws: 3/8" x 4"

Where Used

Sandbox Sides Lower Wall Sides Upper Wall Sides Ladder Fastener Mid Swing Leg Brace Swing Beam into Legs Roof Post to Mid Platform Side Guard Corner Braces Extra

Total: Carriage: 3/8" x 5.5" 3/8" x 6.5" 3/8" x 6.5" 3/8" x 7" 3/8" x 7" 1/2" x 10"

Washers: 3/8" Flat Total: 3/8" Lock

Bolt on Swing Beam Upper Swing Leg Braces Bolt on Swing Beam Supp Buttresses Bolt on Roof Post Center Bolt on Swing Beam

For all lag and carriage Extra For all lag and carriage Extra

Total: Nuts: 3/8" Hex

For all carriage bolts Extra

Total: Decking Screws: 8x2-1/2" Floor Side Walls Ladder Tarp Boards Beam Support Corner Braces Extra Total:

Quantity

16 8 6 2 4 4 4 2 6 3 55

3 2 4 8 2 1

75 25 100 75 25 100

20 5 25

62 48 40 12 10 12 16 200

Swing Hangers: 6" Shaft Length Swings

Quick Links:

Swings

* If using optional upgraded swing hangers, then add (8) 3/8x4-1/2" Lag Screws and (8) 3/8" lock washers and (8) 3/8 flat washers

TABLE 2A. CUT WOOD TO LENGTH FOR SPACE STATION 5x5 FORT Description Fort Posts Floor Buttresses Roof Posts Ladder Sides Upper Wall Supports Roof Boards Side Guard Mid Platform Supports Corner Braces Lower Wall Supports Upper Swing Leg Brace Swing Beam Support Sand Box Sides Ladder Steps Body Floor Sides End Floor* Step Supports**

Size as Purchased 4x4x8' 4x4x10' 4x4x12' 2x4x8' 2x4x10' 2x4x10'

Qty Purchased 4 2 1 2 1 2

Cut to Size Trim length to exactly 8' 4x4x5' 4x4x6' 2x4x6'-6" 2x4x5' 2x4x5' 2x4x5' 2x4x10' 1 2x4x5' 2x4x12' 1 2x4x2' 2x6x8' 2 2x6x5' 2x6x18-3/4" (used for Swing Frm) 2x6x10' 1 2x6x5' 2x6x10' 2 2x6x5' 2x6x10' 1 2x6x21-5/8" 5/4x6x10' 5 5/4x6x59-3/4" 5/4x6x10' 3 5/4x6x28-3/4" 5/4x6x10' 1 5/4x3.5x24-1/4" (rip to 3 1/2" width) use leftover from End Floor 5/4x2x3-1/4"

Cut to Qty 4 4 2 2 2 3 1 2 6 2 2 2 4 5 9 16 4 10

Label Abbrev. #1, #2, #3, #4 LFB, RFB, FFB, BFB FRP, BRP LLS, RLS LUWS, FUWS (3)RB SG LMPS, RMPS CB LLWS, RLWS (2)USLB (2)SBS LSBS, RSBS, FSBS, BSBS No Label No Label No Label No Label No Label

* See Techniques Section for Instructions on Rip Sawing ** Step Supports are made from trimmed pieces of End Floor, See Techniques Section for cross cutting short wood Note: Label each piece according to the table above (the end of the piece is the best place for the label). TABLE 2B. CUT WOOD TO LENGTH FOR SWING FRAME Description Swing Beam Swing Legs Lower Swing Leg Brace Upper Swing Leg Brace

Size as Qty Cut to Purchased Purchased Size 4x6x12' 1 Do not trim 4x4x10' 2 4x4x112-7/16" 2x6x8' 1 2x6x75-15/16" Use pieces from Table 2A (Lower Wall Supports)

Cut to Qty 1 2 1

Label Abbrev. SB SL LSLB

Diagram 25. ASSEMBLE CORNER BRACES (2 braces per side on Front, Left, and Right Sides of Fort)

LEFT Side View * Front and Right Side Views Identical Detail View Looking Up at Sides of Corner Braces

2-1/2" Decking Screws (2 per brace) Predrill Holes w/ 7/64" drill bit to Prevent Splitting Corner Braces (4" Lag Screws) Predrill pilothole using 1/4" bit Eyeball position

Start holes about 1" from bottom of brace

Screw two 2-1/2" Decking screws into each corner brace (see detail)

* View looking from OUTSIDE Fort

Diagram 20. ASSEMBLE FORT FLOOR DECKING (Top View) End Decking Boards (5/4"x3-1/2"x24-1/4")

Boards spacing should be about 1/3"

Body Decking Boards (5/4"x6"x59-3/4") Qty = 9

Use 2-1/2" Decking Screws for hole pattern shown

End Decking Boards (5/4"x3-1/2"x24-1/4")

Diagram 22. ASSEMBLE FORT WALLS **Fasten Wall Boards on INSIDE of Fort** LEFT and RIGHT Side View (Identical Pattern)

Fort Floor Decking Wall Boards (5/4" x6" x 28-3/4") Qty = 6 Spacing = 2.9"

Use 2-1/2" Decking Screws for Patterns Shown * Be careful not to overdrill screws--overdrilling will make the screw point stick out of the wall support Hint: Position Bottom Row of Screws Higher Up So That Drill Will Have Space

* All Views looking from INSIDE Fort

Diagram 24. ASSEMBLE FRONT UPPER WALL SUPPORT FRONT View Tarp wraps around roof boards and snaps on underside

4" Lag Screws Qty = 3

Diagram 27. ASSEMBLE LADDER

Side View

Front View Steps

Step Supports

LLS

RLS

Two 2-1/2" Decking Screws per step (both sides) "Eyeball" screw position into Steps

Diagram 26. ASSEMBLE LADDER STEP SUPPORTS Screw Step Supports into LEFT Ladder Side INSIDE Face

2-1/2" Decking Screws (2 per support) Note: Predrill Holes into Step Supports to Prevent Splitting Use 7/64" drill bit for Predrill Hole

Top

Bottom

Screw Step Supports into RIGHT Ladder Side

Position Step Supports so that Top of Support Aligns with Mark Line

INSIDE Face

Top

Bottom Step Supports are made from cutting unused portion of ripped fort floor decking to 3-1/4" length Approximate size is 5/4"x2"x3-1/4"

Diagram 19. ASSEMBLE MID PLATFORM SUPPORTS and ROOF POSTS Top View (looking down on Floor Supports and Buttresses)

Front View (Back View is identical)

Back Roof Post

Front Roof Post -- FRP

Left Mid Platform Support

Right Mid-Platform Support--RMPS (4" Lag Screw)

7" Carriage Bolt Left Mid-Platform Support LMPS (4" Lag Screw)

Right Mid Platform Support

Right Buttress Left Buttress

Front Roof Post

Diagram 23. ASSEMBLE ROOF BOARDS and ROOF TARP Tarp Dimensions are 87" x 49"

Roof Boards -- RB (2"x4"x5') Qty = 3

FRONT View

TOP View LEFT Roof Board

23-/12"

RIGHT Roof Board

MID Roof Board Snaps for Roof Tarp (3 per side) On UNDERSIDE of roof boards Predrill w/ 5/64" bit Install w/ screwdriver

23-1/2"

Position snap holes using same dimensions on both sides Drill Holes on UNDERSIDE of Roof Boards

Use 2-1/2" Decking Screws to Fasten Roof Boards to Top of Posts (Front and Back)

A. Position snap holes in center of LEFT roof board B. Stretch tarp tight over roof boards and mark position of RIGHT roof board snap holes C. See next diagram (24) for Front View of Roof Tarp

Diagram 17. ASSEMBLE SANDBOX SIDES AND BUTTRESSES (A) FRONT Fort Assembly (looking at front of fort)

BACK Fort Assembly (looking at Back of Fort)

Top

Fort Post 1 (FRONT Face)