From Turtles to Toe-tickling Jellyfish

STORY BY STEPHANIE BROOKES • PHOTOS BY DAVID METCALF

WE ALL LOVE TO TRAVEL, BUT WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE? YOU MAY LIKE TO PUT DERAWAN ISLAND IN KALIMANTAN ON YOUR BUCKET LIST FOR 2021.

The coral reefs that surround Derawan Island, are bursting with colour and life. In fact, over 870 fish species live in these waters, from pygmy seahorses to giant manta rays. Derawan Island is just one island in the chain of islands known as the Derawan Islands, which consists of six islands as well as a number of islets and reefs, all set in the aqua blue waters of the Sulawesi Sea, East Kalimantan. From Jakarta, I took a flight to Berau via Balikpapan and then jumped on a speedboat. In around three hours I arrived at Derawan Island, a small sandy atoll and a truly magical place. Its tiny settlement consists of a friendly local village with a number of colourful wooden cabins and cottages for visitors to stay, some of which are suspended on stilts over clear, turquoise waters. There are also several dedicated dive resorts if diving is your thing. I stayed at a little cottage homestay on a long jetty with the waters lapping up under my cabin and a fishing pole at the door.

My welcoming committee consisted of three giant turtles which surfaced as I alighted on the jetty. One raised its head in my direction and then seemed to accompany me as I walked towards the shore, its large flippers moving at a slow, rhythmic pace.

I spent the rest of the day walking around the local village, and perusing the local café and restaurant scene (which took all of about 15 minutes). I particularly liked the look of a little seafood restaurant which was located on one of the long jetties. As soon as I entered, the owner flew out of the kitchen and greeted me with a huge smile. She excitedly pointed out the round holes in the floor between the tables and showed me a stack of fishing poles at the ready resting against the wall. Yes, you can fish from the restaurant, while you eat! Decision made. I had found my dinner spot.

This super-friendly restaurant owner also told me she could organise a tasty picnic lunch, along with a good boat and an excellent captain to take me out the

next day. Second decision made.

The next morning I arrived at 8.00 am as instructed, grabbed my pre-packed lunch and was off on a sturdy speedboat to Sangalaki. This island is a protected marine area and home to a turtle breeding program where turtle eggs are incubated, and the hatchlings taken care of before release.

The waters around Sangalaki provide a natural habitat for the manta ray, with divers naming the area "The Kingdom of Mantas”. These massive sea dwellers have a four-metre wing span, and I spotted a number of them breaking the surface of the water from the boat. Of course, I could not resist jumping overboard with my

Floating in this peaceful lake, surrounded by lush forests, was an extraordinary experience. It did not take long before I found myself in the midst of a mass of jellyfish.

snorkel to join them. They seemed undeterred by my presence, and it was a pure adrenaline rush to share some space with these magnificent creatures.

Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, I had another treat in store.

The next stop was Kakaban Island, home to magical Kakaban Lake, also known as Jellyfish Lake. This is a landlocked body of seawater

raised above sea level. Its isolation from the surrounding ocean has enabled life forms in the lake to evolve separately over millions of years and has resulted in numerous unique species, many of which are yet to be identified.

Floating in this peaceful lake, surrounded by lush forests, was an extraordinary experience. It did not take long before I found myself in the midst of a mass of jellyfish. I was glad that my guide had already informed me that the four species of jellyfish that have evolved in this unique lake had become stingless over the years and were therefore harmless.

It was the most surreal sensation swimming in a sea of graceful and beautiful jellyfish, some of them translucent, some large, some small and some ever so curious. Every five minutes I had one or two nibbling at my toes, almost as if wanting to make friends. I also spotted other fascinating marine wonders in the lake, including sea sponges, tube worms, and sea cucumbers.

I spent a blissful three days staying on Derawan Island. From turtles to toe-tickling jellyfish, the idyllic Derawan Island chain offers a laid-back travel experience with fresh seafood feasts and beautiful sunsets every evening. It is very accessible by plane and boat from Jakarta and other major cities. The charms and wonders of this remote paradise in East Kalimantan awaits you.

Stephanie Brookes is a travel writer and blogger with tales from Indonesia and beyond. IG: @stephtravelwriter FB: @stephtravelwriter www.travelwriter.ws Author - “Indonesia’s Hidden Heritage; Cultural Journeys of Discovery”

David Metcalf is a photographer and runs cultural photography tours in Kalimantan, Sumba, Mentawai Islands, Bali, Tanzania, Alaska and Japan. IG: davidmetcalfphotography FB: davidmetcalfphotography YT: DayakDave www.davidmetcalfphotography.com

How to Get There:

Fly from Jakarta to Balikpapan, transferring to Berau. Connect with speedboat to Derawan Island.

Local Guide: Ibu Yun Pratiwi

can arrange your speedboat, accommodation and meals. She is a very experienced, professional guide. Email: pratiwiyun@gmail.com Tel: +62 8115233389 www.centralborneoguide.com

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