CITY GUIDE BUCHAREST 2015
BR City Guide Bucharest City Guide brings you the must-read insider’s lowdown on what to see, what to do and where to eat in Romania’s vibrant capital city, drawing on the expertise of a mixed local and expat team of journalists. With a portable and easy-to-use format, the guide is divided into sections and maps.
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TOURIST INFO SIGHTSEEING
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OLD TOWN RESTAURANTS SHOPPING WELLNESS
How to get Around Landmarks Byzantine Bucharest Museums Galleries Souvenir Shops Guided Tours Outside Bucharest
Business Review – Romania’s premier English-language business monthly – has been covering the local economy and financial environment, within a broader social-cultural perspective, for more than 16 years.
BR Guides Published by Bloc Notes Media Editors: Debbie Stowe, Oana Vasiliu, Tatiana Lazar Art director: Raluca Piscu • Sales: Oana Molodoi, Ana-Maria Nedelcu, Oana Albu, Valeria Cornean • Publisher: Business Review Contacts: Editorial: editorial@business-review.ro Sales: oana.molodoi@business-review.ro www.business-review.eu BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 1
TOURIST INFO ARRIVAL AIRPORT: OTOPENI Commercial flights to Bucharest all land at Henri Coanda (generally known as Otopeni), 17 km north of the city. Taxis, trains and buses go to the city center. Touchscreens in the terminal now allow you to book a taxi from a company of your choice, giving you the time it will take to arrive, tariff and cab number. The car will collect you outside and the journey should not cost more than about RON 40. A cheaper alternative is taking 783 bus, which starts in front of the Domestic Arrivals hall and goes to the city center, stopping at Victoriei Square, Romana Square, Universitatii Square and terminating at Unirii Square. Buses run 24 hours a day. The 780 bus connects the airport with the central train station, Gara de Nord. An express journey costs RON 7 (travel within the city is cheaper) and you need to purchase a rechargeable card before boarding. The card costs RON 3.7 and can be topped up at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest. It’s valid on all means of transportation in Bucharest: buses, trams and metro, and must be swiped either at the barrier or once on board. The airport is also connected to Bucharest by railway line. The service runs from 05.00-22.10 and a minibus is required to get to the airport station. Few passengers 2 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
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RAILWAY : GARA DE NORD If you arrive in Bucharest by train it will most likely be at Gara de Nord. There are ATMs, shops, kiosks and fast-food restaurants. If you’re hailing a taxi, walk some distance from the station first, as the drivers that loiter in this area will rip you off. The railway station has some touchscreens allowing you to book a taxi from a specific company, also theoretically giving you the time it will take to arrive, tariff and cab number, but they are seldom operational. To get to the airport from Gara de Nord, take bus 780.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT SUBWAY Operational: daily, 5:00 - 23:00; Tickets: RON 5 (EUR 1.1) for a roundtrip; RON 8 (about EUR 2) for a day ticket The metro system is the cheapest and easiest way to get around if you don’t know Bucharest and also the quickest, although the network is not comprehensive. There are four lines, numbered from M1 to M4. It’s particularly useful for north-south journeys along the central axis of squares (M2), mainly Unirii to Aviatorilor. Tickets are on sale from kiosks near the ticket barriers and most trains have maps. For the local ver-
LEONE Rate: RON 1.39 / km, 021 9425
MERIDIAN Rate: RON 1.4 / km, 021 9444
BUSES AND TRAMS Operational: 5:00 - 23:00 Tickets: RON 1.3 for urban lines; RON 3.5 for express lines Buses and trams are more comprehensive and frequent. Electronic passes charged with a certain number of journeys must be touched in on board; most stops have a ticket kiosk. Not all public transport is air conditioned.
TAXIS Taxis, which are still cheap by Western standards, can be booked by phone, hailed on the street or found at taxi ranks (the most central one is located next to the Intercontinental Hotel). If you don’t book, be sure to choose a reputable cab company – look for the tariff displayed on the door, which should be RON 1.39 (currently about EUR 0.30) per km. A higher rate of RON 3.5 per km is charged by a few companies. These taxi companies are recommended for booking by phone (some now also have apps):
AUTOCOBALCESCU Rate: RON 1.39 / km, 021 9451
UBER The peer-to-peer taxi service Uber has been operating in Bucharest since spring. Its estimated time of arrival is seven minutes. Uber’s starting rates are similar to those of most local taxi companies. Passengers pay a RON 1.39 base fare and the same sum per kilometer. The app charges RON 0.23 (EUR 0.05) per minute when the cab is stationary, the same as regular taxis. Minimum fare is RON 6 (EUR 1.35), the same as the cancellation fee. A ride from the Henri Coanda International Airport in Northern Bucharest to the centre of the city (Universitatii Square) should cost about RON 40 (EUR 9).
CRIME & SAFETY Bucharest is generally considered a safe city, and while you should be aware of petty crime and pickpocketing on public transport or in busy parts of town, violent crimes are rarer than in Western European cities. To report an incident or call the Police, Ambulance or Fire Brigade, dial 112, free of charge. BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 3
TOURIST INFO
Mihai Constantineanu
sion of an Oyster card, which can also be used on buses and trams, ask for instructions at the ticket kiosks.
SIGHTSEEING
Mihai Constantineanu
Romania’s checkered history is writ large on the face of its capital city, which boasts an eclectic mishmash of architectural styles and eye-catching structures. It’s worth taking a while to stroll through the center of town; almost any wander will take you past some striking and attractive buildings. At the beginning of the 20th century, Bucharest’s elegance earned it the moniker of “the little Paris”. Many of its landmark buildings, constructed in the 19th century, display the influence of the French architectural style. Several are on or around Calea Victoriei, one of the city’s main north-south thoroughfares, so easily seen on a walking tour. Waiting for you is a fascinating and dynamic metropolis, which yields various charms as you stroll the bustling streets flanked with their eclectic edifices.
The sumptuous entrance of Cantacuzino Museum, in Art Nouveau style, announces the luxury and refinement of the époque 4 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
LANDMARKS ARCH OF TRIUMPH Piata Arcul de Triumf, Sos Kiseleff
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One of the first flagship pieces of Bucharest architecture visitors see en route into town from the airport, the current structure dates from 1936, though the site has hosted an arch since a wooden one was thrown up to commemorate Romania’s independence in 1878 Soldiers still parade beneath to mark Romania’s national day, and the arch is also a favorite for wedding photos.
THE ATHENAEUM 1-3 Franklin St, opposite the Hilton Hotel
Probably the city’s most beautiful building, the Athenaeum is a neoclassical delight. It opened in 1888, funded by public donations. Catch a concert for an opportunity to admire the fabulous frescoes.
BOTANICAL GARDEN 32 Sos. Cotroceni, 021 410 9139, www.gradina-botanica.ro A wonderful green space in the heart of the city. Founded more than 150 years ago, the garden was completed in 1866 to the design of Ulrich Hoffmann. Today, it covers more than 17 hectares and hosts more than 10,000 species of plant, half of which are cultivated in impressive glasshouses.
CAPSA HOUSE / CASA CAPSA 36 Calea Victoriei A historical restaurant first established in 1852, Casa Capsa became a symbol of the city’s hectic literary life, a welcoming place where creative and bohemian types could meet and talk. In fact, the coffee house, established in 1891, never turned a profit, because the writers and artists who went there usually eked out water and coffee for hours, say historians! Today the venue is known for its delicious pastry products. Mihai Constantineanu
CEC PALACE / THE SAVINGS BANK Calea Victoriei, opposite the History Museum Built in 1900, this must rank as one of the most attractive banks 6 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
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Since 1854, Cismigiu Gardens have welcomed locals for strolling and leisure anywhere. Capped by a dome, it features an eclectic array of architectural styles and exudes Renaissance elegance. Arches, columns and spires all compete for your attention. When lit up at night it is glorious.
THE CENTRAL ARMY HOUSE Junction of Regina Elisabeta and Calea Victoriei Also known as Cercul Militar, this striking neoclassical structure is about to celebrate its centenary. Built to cater to the nation’s soldiers, it resonates with military gravitas. Unless you’re a Romanian soldier it’s largely off limits, although it is sometimes possible to visit the restaurant but don’t expect the food to match the high standards
of the building.
GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM / CANTACUZIONO PALACE 141 Calea Victoriei, 021 318 1450, www.georgeenescu.ro Romania’s most illustrious musical son is celebrated more famously in the biannual festival, but his museum is housed in the Cantacuzino Palace, a lesser known Bucharest gem. Dating back to the early 20th century and resulting from an architectural collaboration, sculptures adorn the elegant facade, creating a truly impressive spectacle.
CISMIGIU GARDENS Between Blvd. Regina Elisabeta and Blvd. Schitu Magureanu
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Mihai Constantineanu
SIGHTSEEING
The People's Palace is the largest administrative building for civil use in the world Laid out in 1845, the oldest park in the city is possible the most beautiful. Its location right in the heart of town makes it a favorite place for strolling. The floral arrangements, rare trees and shrubs, the lake – which in winter is transformed into an ice rink – fountains and sculptures all contribute to the charm of Cismigiu.
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PEOPLE'S PALACE 2-4 Izvor St, 021 316 0300, www.casapoporului.ro Though often dubbed a monstrosity and a monument to Ceausescu’s megalomania, there is no denying that the dictator’s vanity project, whose records include the world’s largest civilian administrative building, most expensive administrative build-
ing and heaviest building, is a memorable edifice. The tour, which now features the roof and basement, is well worth taking.
BUCHAREST TELEPHONE PALACE Until 1956, the 52.5 meter art deco style building was the tallest in Bucharest. Designed for the Romanian Telephone Company by the local architect of Dutch origin Edmond Van Saanen Algi and built over the course of about 20 months in 1931-1933, it was the first major modernist building on Calea Victoriei, inaugurated in 1934 in the presence of King Carol II. The palace was extended in 1940 and 1946, and survived earthquakes in 1940, 1977, 1986 and 1990 and bombing in 1944 by Allied Forces during World War II.
BYZANTINE BUCHAREST ST GEORGE THE NEW CHURCH Located between Unirii Square and Universitate, marking the very center of Bucharest
STAVROPOLEOS MONASTERY 4 Stravropoleos St, 021 313 4747, www.stavropoleos.ro Built in 1724, Stavropoleos Church is one of the most outstanding examples of the Brancoveanu style – an original baroque synthesis of Eastern and Western architecture created under Prince Brancoveanu’s reign (1688-1714). The vegetal motifs which adorn the facade and the loggia blend harmoniously with the interior and exterior frescoes depicting biblical scenes and the carved wood iconostasis, among which one can admire the bi-cephalous eagle, the emblem of Byzantium. The building gets a three-star mention in the Michelin travel guide.
STAVROPOLEOS COLLECTION Built by Brancoveanu in 1707, the church has been one of the most important buildings in the capital for almost two centuries. After several fires and earthquakes, it was rebuilt in the early 20th century based on the initial plans, with a 12-column loggia. The martyr Prince Brancoveanu is buried here.
KRETZULESCU CHURCH 47 Calea Victoriei
4 Stravropoleos St, 021 313 4747, www.stavropoleos.ro Within the monastery precincts are a library and a refectory displaying a small but valuable collection of old religious objects, which includes icons painted on wood and glass, religious artifacts, decorative art and fragments of fresco recovered from churches demolished under the communist regime. The monastery’s library BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 9
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37 Calea Victoriei
Constructed in 1722 in the Brancoveanu style, the red-brick church was built by boyar Kretzulescu, one of Prince Constantin Brancoveanu’s sonsin-law. The exterior frescoes have been preserved in their original state, while the interior was the work of a famous 19thcentury painter, Gheorghe Tattarascu.
Mihai Constantineanu
SIGHTSEEING
The richly decorated Stavropoleos Monastery is one of Bucharest's most memorable churches holds over 10,000 books and manuscripts, including titles on theology. A catalog with all religious objects and manuscripts is for sale at the entrance to the church. For guided tours of the collection, book an appointment at manastireastavropoleos@gmail.com.
ROMANIAN MEDIEVAL ART GALLERY Within the National Art Museum of Romania, 49-53 Calea Victoriei, www.mnar.ro.
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Holding the largest collection of its kind in Romania, the museum’s more than 9,500 works include icons, fresco fragments, embroideries and textiles, religious manuscripts and rare books, silver, jewelry, woodcarvings, metalwork and ceramics. On display is a selection of approximately 900 works, spanning ďŹ ve centuries of artistic achievement, from the late 14th through to the early 19th century.
SIGHTSEEING
The highlights of the Antipa Museum include a dinosaur fossil and an extensive butterfly collection
MUSEUMS ART COLLECTIONS MUSEUM 111 Calea Victoriei www.mnar.arts.ro Established in 1978, the Art Collections Museum is housed in the former neoclassical style Romanit Palace, built in 1812 by boyar Constantin Facca. The museum currently holds 42 private collections with over 12,000 works donated to the Romanian state between 1927 and 2002. With local art well represented (through valuable samples of icons on glass and wood, ceramics, furniture, as well as 18thand 19th-century textiles) the museum also holds noteworthy works by French, Flemish and Dutch artists, including masterpieces by Gustave Courbet, Camille Pissarro, Antoine Bourdelle, David Teniers the Younger and Vincent van Gogh. 12 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
ANTIPA MUSEUM 1 Sos. Kiseleff, 021 312 8863, www.antipa.ro Created almost 100 years ago at the initiative of Grigore Antipa, the Romanian biologist known for the invention of the diorama, the National Museum of Natural History hosts permanent exhibitions of Romanian fauna and animals. Over 2 million exhibits are gathered in different thematic collections: zoology, paleontology, minerals, rocks and ethnography.
CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM People’s Palace, 2-4 Izvor St, wing E4, entrance from Calea 13 Septembrie, www.mnac.ro Located in Ceausescu’s controversial mammoth building, the museum hosts temporary modern art exhibitions in its vast halls, which create a strange yet welcoming
COTROCENI PALACE AND MUSEUM 1 Geniului Blvd, 021 317 3106, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro Built between 1679 and 1681 by Prince Serban Cantacuzino in the baroque style of the time, the Cotroceni complex served as the official residence of different rulers. Queen Mary left her unmistakable mark on the place, which bears the proof of her artistic affinities. Cotroceni is the only official residence in Romania that has been used for over four centuries, with the palace and medieval cellars still existing today.
THE FIRE TOWER / FOISORUL DE FOC 33 Ferdinand I Blvd, 021 252 2884, www.muzeulpompierilor.ro The current structure was built in 1890 to replace a previous watchtower, Turnul Coltei, which had stood since 1715 before being demolished. Foisorul de Foc had a double role, as an observation tower for firemen and a water tower. However, after the building was finished, the local water utility company had no pumps powerful enough to fill it up. Currently it is the Firefighters' Museum,
and affords superb views over Bucharest.
NATIONAL ART MUSEUM (MNAR) 49-53 Calea Victoriei, 021 313 3030, www.mnar.ro Besides its European Art gallery, the museum located in the Royal Palace holds the most important collection of Romanian modern art, with 8,600 paintings and 2,000 sculptures (including works by Brancusi). Approximately 700 exhibits offer an overview of the evolution of artistic trends from the early 19th century – when art in Romania became entirely secular – through to the late 19th to early 20th century, the age of the great masters of national art. For the Medieval Art Collection, see Byzantine Bucharest.
NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM 12 Calea Victoriei, 021 315 8207, www.mnir.ro From prehistoric times, through the gold treasury of Dacian tribes and the Roman Conquest to the modern era, the museum’s 60 halls exhibit historical artifacts, documents and art that connect us to the cradle of European civilization in the Neolithic age (6,500-3,500 BC), located on today’s Romanian territory.
ROMANIAN PEASANT MUSEUM 3 Sos Kiseleff, 021 317 9660, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro Winner of the European Museum of the Year Award in 1996 for its “wonderful collections of objects … presented and interpreted BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 13
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space. The gallery also contains one of the most interesting communist kitsch art collections, unfortunately not on display. Although getting there requires some effort, it’s worth the trip since the museum’s roof terrace offers one of the best aerial views of Bucharest.
THEODOR AMAN MUSEUM 8 C.A. Rosetti St, 021 314 5812, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro An important 19th-century painter and the founder of the first Fine Arts Academy, Theodor Aman (1831-1891) was the owner and architect of this neoclassical palazzo, which served both as his studio and home. The studio, which was also used as an exhibition space for his paintings, was reconstructed by the curators as it was depicted in many of his works.
VILLAGE MUSEUM 28-30 Sos. Kiseleff, 021 317 9103, www.muzeul-satului.ro The Village Museum is an open-air ethnographic museum in Herastrau Park, showcasing traditional Romanian village life. Covering over 100,000 sqm, it contains an estimated 300 authentic peasant farms and houses brought from all over Romania and reassembled bit by bit in the park, clustered and arranged to show the real pattern of Romanian villages.
GALLERIES AIURART CONTEMPORARY ART SPACE 21 Lirei St, www.aiurart.ro This venue for contemporary art exhibitions, ranging from paintings and sculpture to video art, installations, projects and experimental productions, has been operating since 2012. Every object here is a product of Romanian contemporary design. Visitors will find free Wi-Fi, a charming lounge, plus plenty of international art, architecture and design magazines. Represented artists: Iulia Nistor, Valeriu Schiau, Mihai Zgondoiu, Ciprian Ciuclea, Daniel Balanescu, Patricia Teodorescu, Vlad Berte, Denisa Curte and Marius Purice.
ANAID ART GALLERY 34 Slobozia St, www.anaidart.ro Established in 2004 to showcase contemporary works, the gallery aims to develop partnerships and collaborations with international galleries, and to encourage and stimulate esthetic values, by providing a welcoming space between the artist and the public. Represented artists: Matei Arnautu, Raluca Arnautu, Justin Baroncea, Zsolt Berszan, Traian Boldea, Suzana Dan, Mihai Florea, Harem6, Alexandru Radvan, Aurel Vlad and Soap Art Kollectiv.
ANNART GALLARY 39 Paris St This private gallery, opened in May BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 15
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with exceptional imagination and skill, in an original style with great impact on the visitor.” The extensive collection, housed in a NeoRomanian-style historical building, developed out of the first autonomous museum for peasant art, which was established in 1906. Today the venue is also an urban socializing spot, with a terrace serving Romanian food, an openair cinema and a highly regarded shop with traditional ceramics, icons and textiles, including the famous Romanian blouse, the “ie”.
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2011, promotes and sells works by established artists as well as fresh talent ones. Represented artists: Sorin Ilfoveanu, Mircea Roman, Paul Neagu, Dorin Cretu, Stefan Caltia, Laura Covaci, Francisc Chiuariu, Vladimir Setran, TAA_2011, Constantin Rusu, Adrian Ilfoveanu, Florica Prevenda.
nary cultural experiences, allowing the visitor to get in touch with contemporary art.
ARTMARK 5 C.A. Rosetti St, www.artmark.ro
Galateca
Artmark
Galateca has become a cultural reference space PAVILION Active since 2008, the art auction house aims to select, evaluate, sell and promote art – both contemporary and heritage. Since its opening, Artmark has organized more than 120 auctions selling over 15,000 works, including 5,000 in 2013 alone.
GALATECA 2-4 C.A. Rosetti St, www.galateca.ro This project, created by artists, designers, architects, curators and communication specialists, set out to develop exhibitions of applied arts, new multimedia art, an original gallery shop and multidiscipli16 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
Combinatul Fondului Plastic, 29 Baiculesti St www.pavilioncenter.ro The ďŹ rst independent contemporary art and cultural center in Romania, Pavilion was established by the Bucharest Biennale team and UniCredit Tiriac Bank. The center is intended for artistic production, research and information, making available to interested parties a broad range of cultural resources. Its rich agenda consists of exhibitions, debates, a movie projection schedule and an informal educational program. Exhibitions seek to bring Romanian and foreign contemporary art works to the public attention.
GUIDED TOURS ART IN BUCHAREST
This unusual art tour captures the essence of Romania in downtown Bucharest, affording participants an insight into the works and studios of the city’s artists. It’s run by the Art in Bucharest association.
The basic tour includes a twoand-a-half-hour drive through the city center and key neighborhoods of Bucharest, providing a dramatic overview of some of the most beautiful and ancient architecture in Europe. The tour operators promise that you will discover the dramatic, often tumultuous history of Bucharest and Romania, ranging from the battles of the Middle Ages through the monarchy, and Communist rule into the present.
BUCHAREST CITY TOUR BY BUS www.bucharestcitytour.ratb.ro The 15 kilometer tourist route is served by double-decker buses with a capacity of 77 seats. The tour has 14 designated bus stops serving the major landmarks, including the Peasant Museum, Victoria Palace, Parliament Palace, Bucharest Museum and Romanian Patriarchy. Tickets for the tour are valid for 24 hours, allowing passengers to hop on and hop off at will, and an audio commentary is available in several languages. Busses on the Bucharest City Tour line run from 10.00-22.00, every 15 minutes, taking 50 minutes for the circuit. Travel cards, which can be bought on board, cost RON 25 for adults and RON 10 for children between 7 and 14.
BUCHAREST TOURS AND EXCURSIONS 021 322 89 94, www.bucharesttours.ro; Costs: from EUR 25 (RON 100) Tour type: panoramic tour,
CULTURAL TRAVEL AND TOURS 021 336 31 63, www.cttours.ro Cost: from EUR 29, depending on the tour type and group number Tour type: Past and Present in Bucharest Architecture, On the Banks of the Dambovita River, Spiritual Break, Dracula’s Original Haunts, Art & History These niche tours probe more deeply into such topics as the city’s arts, mediaeval history, commercial past, eclectic French architecture, Communist Bucharest and the daily life of Bucharest’s inhabitants.
GUIDED BUCHAREST 0744 314 110, www.guided-bucharest.com Cost: Free tour Starting time: 18.00 every day Tour type: walking tour, bike tour Over the course of more than two hours, explore the eclectic architecture and hidden attractions of the city, while unraveling the stories of old and new BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 17
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0726 008 152, art@artinbucharest.com Costs: RON 80 / EUR 20 Tour type: artistic
Bucharest in depth, three museums in one day, Bucharest evening tour
OUTSIDE BUCHAREST CERNICA LAKE
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14 km south-east of Bucharest
Comana National Park is known as Bucharest’s delta for its ecosystems and biodiversity, which are similar to those of the Danube Delta. This protected area is home to several endangered species of flowers and animals on the European red list, which ranks the conservation status of almost 6,000 European species. It offers almost 58 kilometers of bicycle routes, boat rides among the reeds and fishing potential. History buffs and Dracula enthusiasts won’t want to miss Comana’s Monastery, founded by Vlad Tepes (the inspiration for the figure of Dracula).
GREACA DOMAIN The 19th-century orthodox complex of Cernica, on a small island in the middle of Cernica Lake, is one of Romania’s most idyllic monasteries. Two churches, some chapels, a cemetery, religious art and a typography museum are contained within the complex. The forest and lake are popular with families, offering clean air and a quiet place to spend a day in nature.
45 km south of Bucharest, Greaca village, Giurgiu county; www.domeniulgreaca.ro
COMANA NATIONAL PARK 40 km south of Bucharest, Gradistea village, Giurgiu county, www.comanaparc.ro
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This holiday resort provides accommodation in a NeoRomanian style mansion, and amenities include a restaurant serving Romanian and Mediterranean cuisine, wine cellar and two outdoor pools. Covering an area of 32 hectares, it is located close to the entrance to the village of Greaca. The mansion houses guests in 15 rooms and a suite, with prices starting at EUR 55.
MOGOSOAIA PALACE AND LAKE
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14 km north-west of Bucharest, Mogosoaia town, Ilfov county; www.palatebrancovenesti.ro
One hundred years after the church was constructed (1364), Vlad Tepes added the fortress walls and a dungeon. A plaque on the oor of the church marks the grave that is said to contain the remains of the legendary count.
STIRBEY PALACE 20 km north of Bucharest, Buftea town, Ilfov county; www.palatulstirbey.ro Mogosoaia Palace, which stands on the shores of Mogosoaia Lake, embodies the Brancovenesc architectural style, featuring traditional Romanian staircases, balconies, arcades and columns. Built by Constantin Brancoveanu, the Walachian prince, between 1698 and 1702 as a summer residence for his family, the palace features a beautiful Venetian-style loggia on the facade facing the lake and a balcony with intricate Brancovenesc-style carvings overlooking the main courtyard. Today, the palace houses the Brancovenesc Museum, whose exhibits include valuable paintings, wood and stone sculptures, gold and silver embroideries, rare books and precious manuscripts. Inside the complex is a church built in 1688 and decorated by Greek artists.
SNAGOV MONASTERY AND LAKE 40 km north of Bucharest, Snagov village, Ilfov county; www.snagov.ro Snagov Monastery is located on an island on the far side of Snagov Lake and could only be accessed by boat until recently, when a bridge was built. 20 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
The Stirbey Palace complex comprises the palace itself, a wide lawn, church, chapel, summer pavilion, park, water tower and lake. Construction started in 1850 by order of Barbu Dimitrie Stirbei, then prince of Wallachia, but the structure was not completed until 1863, under Alexandru Barbu Stirbei. Gothic elements can be detected both inside and outside the building, but what really impresses is the princely sumptuousness and prestige of the palace. These charms attracted the great and the good: the building was often used to receive the noble guests of Alexandru Stirbei: public ďŹ gures, cultural and political personalities, scientists and merchants.
OLD TOWN In his trilingual book on Lipscani, historian Eugen Istodor wrote of the main street of the Old Center, “It looks like a theatre setting, ready for a party which is always postponed: vintage scenery, wedding dresses, easy drugs, easy lovers, cheap and colorful gifts, antiques, crazy bicycles, all sorts of tea, ecological, organic, shawarma/kebab, mussels, narghiles, eccentricities, cool, small talk, euphoria, parties, drunk men, funny, takeaways, pubs and taverns for all pockets, but also an earthquake waiting around the corner, ready to turn everything to dust.” This thriving pedestrian area at the heart of the city is also where several layers of more than 550 years of Bucharest’s documented history overlap, conveying the image of a town in constant transformation. The archeological site on the main street of Lipscani brings to light the red-brick ruins of one of the many inns built in this area, which got its name from the town of Lipsca (Leipzig). The German city was at that time the trading partner for the local merchants and artisans who had their busy shops on what was, from the mid 16th to late 19th century, the most important commercial area of Bucharest. The narrow streets around the Old Court were named after the artisan guilds that had their workshops here. Many churches and monasteries, built in the local Brancovenesc architectural style, dot the Old Town. Also known as the town of inns, the neoclassical facades of the Lipscani buildings erected after 1850 are part of the modernization of the capital city under the rule of King Carol I. All important historical buildings constructed during this time on the ruins of old inns, from the Central Bank to the National History Museum, were designed by French and German architects. BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 21
OLD TOWN
Cosmin Dragomir / Carturesti
The revamped Chrissoveloni House in Bucharest’s Old Town now hosts a Carturesti bookstore
LANDMARKS THE CENTRAL BANK – BNR 25 Lipscani St, 021 313 0410, www.bnr.ro Possibly the Old Town’s flagship landmark, the headquarters of BNR – Romania’s National Bank – is another neoclassical masterpiece, again with French architects at the helm. Constructed in 1885, the building boasts Corinthian columns and marble halls inside. Though its size and smartness put it somewhat at odds with ramshackle Lipscani, its grandeur is not dented. 22 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
CHRISSOVELONI HOUSE / CARTURESTI BOOKSHOP 55 Lipscani St, www.carturesticarusel.ro The edifice now known as Chrissoveloni House was built in 1860 and bought by Greek banker Nicolas Chrissoveloni in the early 1900s, then confiscated by the communists in the late 1940s. Five years ago, Jean Chrissoveloni, the great-grandson of Nicolas, recovered it and began reconstruction works in 2010. Since February, the old landmark has housed a Carturesti Bookshop and a bistro.
GABROVENI INN / HANUL GABROBENI
Hanul Gabroveni
86-88 Lipscani St
Built in 1806 near the Old Princely Court by an Armenian merchant known as Manuc Bei, the wooden inn’s open architecture, with its galleries that look upon a generous inner courtyard, was innovative for its time. Recently reopened after renovation works, the historical building today houses two restaurants – one Lebanese, the other Romanian – and a café.
OLD PRINCELY COURT / CURTEA VECHE 27-31 Franceza St, 021 314 0375 Dating back to the 15th century, the Old Princely Court is a real slice of
Mihai Constantineanu
MANUC INN / HANUL LUI MANUC 62-64 Franceza St, 0769 075 844, www.hanulluimanuc.ro
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OLD TOWN
Mihai Constantineanu
Gabroveni Inn was first mentioned in an 1818 document by Dionisie Fotino and then again in 1822, by L. Kreuchely, Prussia’s agent in Bucharest. According to the latter, at that time there were seven large inns without a church in the city: Filipescu, Golescu, Manuc, Papazoglu, Constantin Voda, Zamfir, and Gabroveni. Around 1887, a series of modernization works took place, coordinated by architect I.I. Rosnoveanu, and Gabroveni Hotel became Gabroveni-Universal Hotel. The damage incurred after 1967, when the first preservation efforts began, worsened after 1990, all of which made the old building, which had a structure similar to that of Hanul cu Tei (the Linden Inn) a real danger to passers-by. In 2008, reconstruction began, with the new-look building conceived as a multifunctional cultural center, hosting a theater, space for visual arts, professional training, administration, and cultural and tourist information.
Bucharest history. Built during the reign of Vlad III (aka Dracula), it has since undergone restoration. Hitherto overlooked as a tourist attraction, efforts to improve and promote the Old Town should see Curtea Veche gain a deserved foothold on the visitor’s map.
THE LINDEN TREE INN / HANUL CU TEI
OLD TOWN
63-65 Lipscani St One of the few well preserved street inns, Hanul cu Tei was built in 1833 by two merchants, Anastasie Hagi Gheorghe Polizu and Stefan Popovici, who owned several shops located over highceilinged cellars. Both the Lipscani and Blanari Street entrances are guarded by tall iron gates that used to be closed by night, for the safety of travelers and goods. Today, the inn hosts art galleries, antique shops, cafés and restaurants.
SUTU PALACE – BUCHAREST CITY MUSEUM 2 I.C. Bratianu Blvd, 021 315 6858, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro The lavish neo-Gothic style palace was built in 1832 by one of the wealthiest aristocratic families, the Sutus. Sculptor and decorator Karl Storck added a grand central staircase, transforming the place into a ball venue. Today it hosts the City Museum, with a permanent urban and anthropological collection, as well as a pinacotheque which includes major Romanian and European painters.
VILLACROSSE MACCA PASSAGE In between Calea Victoriei and Lipscani Street 24 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
A walk through the Villacrosse Passage can take you back in time to late 19th-century Bucharest (provided it’s not too busy!). The alley, which today hosts numerous pubs and coffee shops, links Calea Victoriei to the Central Bank on Lipscani Street. The U-shaped skylight-covered passage, which has two branches, was built in 1891 by Felix Xenopol and carries the name of Catalan architect Xavier Villacrosse, who moved to Bucharest and served as the capital’s chief architect from 18401850.
RESTAURANTS THE ARTIST
OLD TOWN
Cuisine: Fusion 13 Nicolae Tonitza St, 0728 318 871, www.theartist.ro
5 Stavropoleos St, 021 313 7560, 0726 282 373, www.carucubere.ro The full range of Romanian dishes served in the oldest beerhouse in the city. Opened in 1879, this is one of the few venues in Bucharest preserved as a historical landmark, with architecture that reminds visitors why the capital was once dubbed the “little Paris”. Distinctive elements include the murals, stained glass and carved cross-beams. Along with the beer, made to a secret original recipe, this Bucharest institution is also famous for its atmosphere, and regularly hosts live dancing. It’s packed all week.
CRAMA DOMNEASCA
The Artist
Cuisine: Romanian 13-15 Selari St, 0758 333 000, www.cramadomneasca.net
In this small restaurant, avantgarde cooking techniques and equipment are used to transform tastes and presentation, but also to revolutionize the appetite. Dutch Chef Paul Oppenkamp combines traditional techniques with molecular cuisine and Romanian influences, resulting in surprising combinations of textures and flavors. The menu includes lobster “sarmale” (minced meat cabbage rolls), and spoon tasting of all mains (RON 70) and desserts (RON 25). It is also regularly revised to include seasonal ingredients.
CARU’ CU BERE Cuisine: Romanian 26 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
Serving up Romanian cuisine at its best, from the classic sour soups, “sarmale” and “mici”, to large pork steaks and eggplant salad, the restaurant, located opposite the National Bank, also has a good selection of house wines. The service is friendly and the live “taraf” music program lends the place its unique atmosphere.
DIVAN Cuisine: Turkish 46 Franceza St, 021 312 3034, www.thedivan.ro Kebab lovers can take their pick from beef, lamb, chicken and marinated meat. Well ahead of its competitors, Divan’s long menu gives diners – especially carnivores – extensive choice.
OLD TOWN Mihai Constantineanu
Places to eat are often open round the clock
BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 27
OLD TOWN
Mica Elvetie
Bucharest cuisine is influence by modern trends MANUC INN Cuisine: Romanian 62-64 Franceza St, 021 313 1411, 0769 075 844, www.hanulluimanuc.ro Located inside the flagship Old Town historical building is the local restaurant Manuc Inn, recently reopened by the City Grill Group. It promises special flavors from Romanian cuisine, similar to those that one can sample in Caru’ cu Bere or the City Grill restaurants.
MEZE TAVERNA Cuisine: Mediterranean 6 Nicolae Tonitza St 021 539 5353 www.mezetaverna.ro The menu at Meze, which takes its name from the selection of small dishes served in the Mediterranean and Middle East, was designed 28 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
with an emphasis on health. The fresh seafood is exquisite. Greek freshly grilled octopus, served with hummus (RON 47) and grilled eggplant stuffed with feta cheese, garlic and olive oil (RON 27) are highly recommended.
MICA ELVETIE ST. MORITZ Cuisine: Swiss 60 Franceza St, 021 224 50 17, www.micaelvetie.ro Well known Mica Elvetie chef Jakob Hausmann rustles up a wide variety of food, based on fresh, seasonal produce. The restaurant now has a summer terrace, a perfect spot to enjoy a sophisticated meal when the mercury rises.
MULANRUJ DINING THEATRE & CLUB 9-11 Selari St, 0748 881 085 Mulanruj Dining Theatre combines
food with regular cabaret – including burlesque, magicians, stand-up comedy, live music and theme parties. Tickets usually include both the show and a slap-up meal, and there is generally a wide range of dining options, with the food selected based on the show. Details of upcoming events can be found on the venue's Facebook page.
RED ANGUS Cuisine: Steak House 56 Franceza St, 0756 600 000, www.redangus.ro
The beef here, which is imported from the US and certified at the second highest level of internationally recognized quality, comes with such adornments as coffee rub and caramel onion butter, chili chocolate sauce and red wine, and red wine and black currants, with accompaniments such as Brussels sprouts baked in blue cheese.
BARS AND PUBS ABSINTHERIA SIXTINA
Red Angus
1 Covaci St, 021 310 3566 Under the “Liberte, egalite, absinthe” motto, the pub/café/bar offers a plethora of alcoholic beverages, from wines and beers to absinth, of course. The music is at a low enough level for conversation and not too commercial. Another plus is the venue’s capaciousness, as it takes up an entire floor of an BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 29
OLD TOWN
Van Gogh
The Old Town can fill up fast on warm evenings and weekends so it can pay to book a table
Biutiful
OLD TOWN
Some restaurants boast a quirky design old building, and so never seems too crowded. For some privacy, head to the small balcony, home to just one table with two chairs.
BICICLETA 38 Lipscani St, 0735 616 298 Fancy some wheel-y good coffees or cocktails in the Old City Center? Bicycle is furnished and decorated with parts of old bikes – but with plenty of stools and leather sofas for those who want to feel a bit more comfortable than one does in the saddle.
BEER O’CLOCK 4 Gabroveni St, 0735 187 012, www.beeroclock.ro
30 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
Welcome to beer land! The 30-page menu reads like a book, providing inside information on taste, ingredients and the brewing process for the 164 kinds on offer. Prices range from about EUR 2 for a Czech Primator Dark pint to around EUR 66 for a Sink The Bismark Scottish beer with 41% alcohol.
BIUTIFUL 7-8 Gabroveni St, 0737 297 297, www.biutiful.ro The coolest place on the crowded Old Town map, this bar is a happy combination of trendy interior design, excellent (yet affordable) food and good quality service. Both the beef burger and the chicken and lamb kafta
Corks
OLD TOWN
Some places in the Old Town are small and cozy, offering protection from the hustle and bustle of the city served with tzatziki salad are worth trying, alongside one of the many choices of beer, wine and non-alcoholic drinks on the house list.
This little place near Unirii Square offers you a fine selection of self-imported wines, which can be tasted inside, at the big wooden table that seems to occupy all the space.
CORKS COZY BAR 1 Bacani St, 021 311 22 65, www.corks.ro Oenophiles can select their tipple from a dizzying array of options, as Corks offers over 300 wines, all of which can be served by glass. The selection includes both recent and vintage bottles.
DIONYSOS WINE BAR 19 Sepcari St, 0723 655 156 32 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
ENERGIEA 4 Brezoianu St, 0736 374 432, www.energiea.ro A gastro-pub/lounge with a beautiful design, inspired by the place’s former incarnation as a printing press 80 years ago, Enegiea offers good food, good drinks and a good atmosphere. The menu ranges from quick snacks like roasted nuts and
chairs invite you to come and chill. The pub serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a good selection of food for every palate. Do ask for a cocktail recommendation at the bar – they will prepare some magical liquid for you.
EXPAT PUB 21 Blanari St, 0729 728 ?82
OLD TOWN
This place hosts regular events, from theme parties and gaming nights to karaoke, as it tries to establish itself as an after-work venue in the Old Town. As the name suggests, the menu is expat friendly.
GAMBRINUS BEERHOUSE
Corks
38 Regina Elisabeta Blvd, 0744 315 110, www.berariagambrinus.ro
A glass of red wine is always a good idea French fries to full-blown main courses such as the delicious marinated ribs. The impressive cocktails are often surprising: particularly recommended is the agship Energiea, a mix of gin, dry white wine, cucumber, apple juice, honey and fresh mint. Outdoor seating is available in the summertime, but do pop in to check out the great decor inside.
ENTOURAGE 5-7 Eugen Carada St, 0736 66 10 16www.byentourage.ro A nice long bar and leather arm34 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
Gambrinus beer enjoys a long tradition in Bucharest. Its history dates back to 1869 but it shot to fame in 1901, when the Romanian playwright and publicist Ion Luca Caragiale took it over, transforming the brewery into a location where theatergoers could debate the latest premieres at the nearby National Theater as well as a meeting place for musicians, writers, journalists and politicians. The new owners have installed a statue of King Gambrinus himself, who overlooks the entire brewery from the top of the bar.
LABORATORUL DE COCKTAILURI 8 Stavropoleos St, 0722 528 040 Resembling an old pharmacy,
Nomad Skybar
The glass roof at Nomad Skybar is amazing - especially at night your favorite liquid mixes are there for sampling at the Cocktail Lab. The science theme includes shots from chemical test tubes. Be warned that it gets very crowded on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, so don’t expect to find a table.
ing: an amazing loft with a great sky view thanks to its mainly glass roof. Live music, drinks and a decent selection of food can be found.
NOMAD SKYBAR
GRAND CAFÉ VAN GOGH
30 Smardan St 0735 448 080
9 Smardan St, 031 107 6371, www.vangogh.ro
Not a typical “sky bar”, because the location is no higher than the second floor of an Old Town building. However, the design is outstand-
Class ooziness from the high ceiling and understated wooden furnishings, and there’s a range of fresh, simple and appetizing eats and
CAFES
BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 35
Origo
OLD TOWN
Coffee at its best drinks appropriate for all times of the day. The delicious smoothies and luxury hot chocolates are just two of the many highlights. You can avoid the smokiness either on the first floor or on the terrace.
KLEIN CAFÉ Rembrandt Hotel mezzanine 11 Smardan St, 021 313 9315 Finding a quiet place in the bustling Old Town can be a challenging task, but Klein Café manages it, and with a non-smoking policy to boot. Located on the mezzanine of the Rembrandt Hotel, next door to Van Gogh Café, it can be easy to miss unless you are specifically looking for it. Once inside, you can expect friendly service in a cozy and relaxed setting, which is good for business meetings or as an out-of-the-office work space (there is free wireless internet).
ORIGO 9 Lipscani St, 0757 086 689 www.facebook.com/OrigoCoffee/info From preparation to serving, Origo keeps the coffee experience fresh 36 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
and personal. The product is roasted on site and the baristas are always willing to provide detail on the blends on the menu and offer tailored suggestions for new flavors or brewing methods to try. Coffee shop by day and cocktail bar by night, it offers relaxed décor (even if the seats could be a bit more comfortable), featuring natural and neutral materials and tones. The coffee is also available to go, and you can pick up various blends, teas and brewing utensils and equipment to take home. Non-smoking, there is a small terrace at the front.
VALEA REGILOR 16-20 Calea Victoriei, Macca-Villacrosse Passage The famous Turkish coffee prepared on sand, peppermint tea (erfe) and non-alcoholic wine (karkale) are only a few of the Oriental aromas that blend together in this beautifully decorated place located in the Villacrosse passage. This is also the place to try the Egyptian hookah, also known as the narghile or water pipe.
RESTAURANTS
Mihai Constantineanu
Bucharest has several food quarters located mostly in the center of the city, with some upmarket restaurants clustered in the north, on the banks of Herastrau Lake. The central dining districts have developed around a few of the capital’s landmarks: the Old Town, the Romanian Athenaeum, Intercontinental Hotel and Icoanei Gardens area. The four circumscribe the very heart of the city, with narrow streets and old villas built in the late 19th century and during the inter-bellum period, many of which have been transformed into restaurants. Many eateries have a terrace, where one can dine al fresco under the shade of old trees at lunchtime or in the evening summer breeze. Business Review brings you a selection of the best Bucharest restaurants, grouped by cuisine, including our recommendations for the best Romanian dining options.
Huge menus, tough choices
38 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
5 Elemente
A touch of Asia in the heart of Bucharest
5 ELEMENTE
KUNNAI 6-12 Copilului St, 0722 687 343, www.kunnai.ro
15 Icoanei St, 0766 331 511 Rated as one of the best Chinese restaurants in town, 5 Elemente is quiet and elegant, with polite and friendly staff. The food is of high quality and authentic, which is reflected in the prices.
EDO SUSHI 122 Calea Victoriei (inside courtyard), 0735 111 001, www.edosushi.ro Take your pick from a range of sushi (maki, gunkan, nigiri, sashimi and tamaki); there is also tasty, spicy soups and salad for the less gastronomically adventurous. Starting from RON 29, the set menus offer great value. Home delivery and take-away are also options.
Serving contemporary Thai cuisine, this is one of Bucharest’s top restaurants. The sophisticated menu is based on the principle of combining opposing flavors. For starters, order fish spring rolls, a fine combination of fish and shitake mushrooms wrapped in a delicate feuilletage, and the delicious traditional tom yam soup with prawns. For vegetarians, the garden wrap, mixing mint, garlic and basil with lettuce, cucumbers and rice noodles, promises to be a treat. The epitome of the experience is Chef Sangri’s masterpiece – Thai grilled fish with herbs, in which kaffir lime, basil, lemongrass, garlic and chili bring out the best of a tasty dorada fish.
BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 39
RESTAURANTS
ASIAN
Cherhanaua Ancora
RESTAURANTS
Meet and eat Mediterranean specialties YOSHI 40-44 Banu Andronache St, 0749 979 521, www.restaurantyoshi.ro Sushi and teppanyaki shine at what is one of the best Japanese restaurants to open in Bucharest for some time, occupying a spacious Dorobanti location. Lunch menus offer excellent value.
ZEN SUSHI 15 George Calinescu St, 56 Grigore Alexandrescu St, 86 Calea Serban Voda, www.zensushibucuresti.ro
40 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
CHERHANAUA ANCORA 7-9 Sos. Nordului, 0721 335 555 www.ancora-cherhana.ro From simple, local fish dishes to more exotic seafood shipped directly from the Mediterranean, such as sea bass, prawns and fresh tuna, the quality is high here, which is reflected in the prices. Look out for the dish of the day.
LE OACOAC 20 Libertatii Blvd, 0747 861 151, www.leoacoac.ro
Le Oacoac
The sushi bar offers nigiri, sashimi, maki and temaki, all well priced. Various set menus start from RON 120, and feature miso soup, teppanyaki vegetables, beef tenderloin, Japanese salad, Japanese rice with vegetables and egg, chicken breast and dessert.
FISH
The restaurant with the funny name has a wide range of fresh seafood including mussels, crab, whelks, squid and lobster, as well as a great breakfast selection, big subs and salads and tasty fish soups. Well worth trying, especially at this time of year when you can enjoy your meal on the cool terrace.
LA PESCARIA DOROBANTILOR 23 Intrarea Tudor Stefan, 0722 271 157 www.lapescariadorobantilor.ro
www.lacantinedenicolai.ro Even if the 1960s menu is oldfashioned, chef Nicolai Tand’s creations still impress. Go for the St Jacques scallops with potato puree and shaved fresh black truffle. The scallops are grilled for a few seconds so they arrive moist, appropriately undercooked and generous (there are five of the beauties). The soft, flakey, moist saddle of cod is another recommendation.
L’ATELIER
MESOGIOS 49 Jean Louis Calderon St, 021 317 1355, www.mesogios.ro The oldest and most reliable fish house in town serves a wide variety of fresh fish cooked in a straight, simple, Mediterranean manner.
TAVERNA LA ZAVAT 16 Popa Nan St, 0766 526 791, www.taverna-lazavat.ro
Epoque Hotel 17C Intrarea Aurora, Cismigiu Gardens, 021 313 32 32, www.hotelepoque.ro In this hard to find location, French gastronomic creativity and quality are guaranteed by chef Samuel le Torriellec and his “haut de gamme” menu. Duck foie gras confit with Sauternes wine, Black Angus rib eye with Bearnaise sauce, Robert Hossein duck parmentier, traditional French onion soup, sand bass in a Grenoble-style bread crust and boulangère potatoes, blueberries and Provence lavender coulis all feature.
LE BISTROT FRANCAIS The menu consists mainly of fish and seafood, but also features Romanian and international dishes. A big plus is the wine list, which caters for all budgets.
FRENCH CANTINE DE NICOLAI
3 Episcopiei St, 0756 018 393, www.lebistrotfrancais.ro Authentic gourmand products, supplied by passionate artisans, such as Normandy beef, Bresse chicken, cheese from raw milk, fresh truffles, Bellota ham and exceptional wines await francophone diners.
15 Povernei St, 0725 210 608, BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 41
RESTAURANTS
TripAdvisor’s number one fish restaurant is definitely worth trying. The owners are almost always in the restaurant to help you with your order. Free dessert is often a bonus.
Le Bistrot Francais
RESTAURANTS
Bonjour finesse en Bucarest LE BOUTIQUE 13 Sfantul Stefan St, 0722 538 274, www.leboutiquefood.ro Le Boutique Food promises a Provencal journey for your taste buds, taking in salads, soups, pasta, fish, pizza and various meat options – chicken, pork, duck and lamb, seasoned with assorted side dishes. Prices are reasonable and the atmosphere is cozy.
L’ESCARGOT 101 Toamnei St, 021 201 7133, www.escargot.ro In an area off Eminescu and surrounded by other restaurants (Chinese, Spanish, Indian and Mexican) this place stands out as the best with its appealing (if pricy) French food. It is like a bistro inside, with a charming small terrace at the rear. The latter is 42 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
crowned with giant fig trees and apricot trees full of fruit which occasionally drop onto your table.
LE FIN PALACE ROYAL 13 Amzei St www.lefinpalaisroyal.ro Restaurant gastronomique or grand cuisine – sound familiar? If not, prepare your palate and your wallet for one of the finest journeys through exquisite French tastes. Even the Romanian president is said to dine here once in a while.
GREEK AMVROSIA GREEK RESTAURANT 11 Drumul Bisericii St, 0722 227 465, www.amvrosia-restaurantgrecesc.ro Live Buzuki music on Fridays and
Taverna Marelui Paharnic
INTERNATIONAL
Saturdays and traditional Greek parties will help you get into the Balkan party spirit.
CHEZ MARIE
ELLINIKON
48 Dionisie Lupu St, 031 427 87 76, 0730 344 810, www.chezmarie.ro
30 Helesteului St, 0735 021 222 www.ellinikon.ro The chef’s mission to bring to Bucharest the simple, authentic tastes of Greece seems to have been successful, judging by the reviews. A highlight is the Kalamari ghemisto, or stuffed calamari.
This delightful, warm place has a great location and excellent prices for its four grilled pork dishes, nine chicken options and eleven different salads. We recommend the roast duck leg, plus duck fillet, red cabbage with apple and green beans plus garlic, a Romanian specialty cooked with a twist.
TAVERNA MARELUI PAHARNIC
CLUB DIPLOMAT
Domenii Square, 0743 901 377, www.tavernamareluipaharnic.ro
2 Sos. Bucuresti-Ploiesti, 0720 880 330, www.diplomatclub.eu
Suffused with Greek spirit, fresh fish, great appetizers and live music await you. The menu also features local dishes.
Established in 1922, this place would eventually become part of the Baneasa Country Club, the biggest of its day. The restaurant BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 43
RESTAURANTS
Get me to the Greek
building was designed by Romania’s most renowned architect, Ion Mincu. Today the aesthetic is modern fine dining, accompanied by a great selection of wines.
1,001 aromas, several meat and fish dishes, and some typical homemade pasta choices.
GOCCIA 23 Enescu St, 0785 238 910 A well balanced Mediterranean mix of meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Prices aren’t as high as you might expect.
JOSEPH BY JOSEPH HADAD Club Diplomat
8 Cantacuzino St, 0753 999 333, www.josephrestaurant.ro
Grand Hotel Continental, 56 Calea Victoriei, 0372 010 300 The elegant white, black and gray décor, classical-style furniture and furnishings, silver plates and fancy condiment holders adorning the tables all say fine dining. The menu is based on the nouvelle cuisine concept. Jazz music played at the right volume will accompany your soups, salads, cold entrees, hot starters, fish, meat or desserts.
DONCAFE BRASSERIE 7 Ankara St, 0746 222 444, www.doncafe-brasserie.ro Located near Piata Dorobanti, this brasserie is a relaxing spot with rich, dark wood and sumptuous seating. On weekdays Doncafe offers a rotating plat du jour with international options such as burger, Moroccan couscous and chicken tikka masala. There’s a selection of Italian and other European mains, including pork osso bucco with 44 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
Joseph by Joseph Hadad
RESTAURANTS
CONCERTO
Mediterranean flavors meet French cuisine, offering a great mix of seafood and meat options. The business lunch is good value (RON 59), considering the exquisite dishes the famous chef rustles up. Don’t miss the delectable dessert menu.
MODIGLIANI 4 Nicolae Balcescu Blvd, 021 310 20 20 Modigliani gets perfectly that less is more. The menu is concise, running from healthy options to gastronomic indulgencies. Starters, for example, include seared goose liver, brioche toast and red onion
confit (RON 75), but also tomato, buffalo mozzarella, avocado and pesto salad (RON 58). Of the soups, the seafood chowder (RON 42) came with a robust and tasty tomato sauce that didn’t overwhelm the delicate fruits of the sea. Mains are split into pasta and risotto (catering well for vegetarians), dishes from the grill and a handful of chef’s recommendations. Beef features a lot, and there’s also a good range of fish.
READERS CAFÉ 50-60 Iancu de Hunedoara Blvd, Metropolis Center, Ground Floor, 0737 323 377
ITALIAN
FRATELLINI 212-214 Gheorghe Titeica St, 0733 229 229, www.fratellini.ro The mixture of French and Italian is a winning formula at this bistro, whose beautiful garden makes it a good spot for business meetings or brunch. “For some, there’s no life before coffee; for others, a proper breakfast fuels inspiration and energy for the entire day. As we see it, a scrumptious lunch will have the same effect, provided it’s served our way: friendly, caring and with the best ingredients” they say. No argument there!
GARGANTUA 69 Jean Louis Calderon St, Parcul Icoanei, 021 211 4041, www.restaurantgargantua.ro This place is eccentrically attractive inside, but also boasts a leafy terrace on the fringes of Icoanei Gardens. The menu is also adventurous by local standards, featuring lesser spotted ingredients such as brie and artichoke.
OSTERIA GIOIA FIOR DI LATTE 19-21 Primavarii Blvd, 0784 420 555
16 Ion Mihalache Blvd, 021 311 3750, www.osteriagioia.ro
A judge on the local version of TV show MasterChef, Patrizia Paglieri, devised the menu here, and the chef’s passion for truffles – order anything with these tiny bites of sublime taste and you will not regret it – is evident.
From the starters list try the delicious oven backed pancakes with Fontina cheese and porcini mushrooms. However, the menu’s forte is its pastas. We recommend the sophisticated taglioni with vongole clams and BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 47
RESTAURANTS
Posh place where you can enjoy a wide-ranging gourmet menu that runs from Lebanese tapas and sushi to warm dishes such as pasta and steaks. The drinks list includes coffee, tea, non-alcoholic cocktails and one of the most comprehensive ranges of top local wines. From the coffee & chocolate menu try Frappe di Menta (espresso, milk, ice and mint syrup), the most refreshing ice coffee in town.
Another plus are the desserts, which include an unmissable tiramisu in town.
Fratellini
RESTAURANTS
The Italian and French check point arugula or the simple linguine with tomatoes and fresh basil.
TRATTORIA PANE E VINO 23-25 Nerva Traian St, 0757 976 618, www.paneevino.ro Antipasti, zuppe, paste, pesce & frutti di mare, carne, pizza, cantorni, dolci – the words that sum up the classic Italian food experience. And it all comes at affordable prices.
ZUCCHERO 9 Alexandru Constantinescu St, 0741 702 971, www.zucchero-restaurant.com Pasta fans may not know which to plump for between linguine, spaghetti, pappardelle, rigatoni, 48 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
penne, fettucine, tagliolini, tagliatele, tortellini, gnocchi, cannelloni and lasagna on this lengthy menu. The frutti di mare is recommended.
ROMANIAN BUREBISTA / BUREBISTA TERRACE 14 Batistei St, 021 211 8929, www.restaurantburebista.ro Named after a Dacian king who defended the land against Roman conquerors, this ethnic-looking place has one of the largest ranges of Romanian dishes, including specialties such as fish eggs (“icre”), pork skin (“sorici”) and, for committed carnivores, wild
Crama Domneasca
Traditional Romanian appetizers boar and deer steak. Evenings are enlivened by a traditional music show.
as eggplant salad (one of the best in town), sour cabbage rolls and “mititei”. RESTAURANTS
CASA DOINA 4 Sos. Kiseleff, 021 222 6717, www.casadoina.ro
La Taifas
Some of the best Romanian food in the city, with well-balanced traditional dishes such as the excellent trout soup and fried organic chicken with garlic sauce. In season now are the starters eggplant salad and grilled pepper salad. The restaurant is also housed in a flagship building: a generous garden with aged trees surrounds a two-storey 1892 Romanian neo-classical villa (classified as an architectural monument).
LOCANTA JARISTEA 50-52 Georgescu St, 0744 240 125, 0721 961 936, www.jaristea.ro
LA TAIFAS 16 Gheorghe Manu St, 021 212 77 88 Well placed for lunch or an early dinner if you have just visited the Enescu Museum, the restaurant is popular in the summer for its beautiful terrace. The menu includes several Romanian specialties such
A place that you shouldn’t miss, mostly for its Bucharest of the 1930s ‘joie de vivre’ atmosphere created by the décor and the live music. The impeccable service is another plus at this themed restaurant. The food is well judged, as is the wine list. BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 49
Zexe
Romania past and present
RESTAURANTS
ROSETTYA 9 Dimitrie Bolintineanu St, 0748 220 220, www.rossetya.ro
SLOW FOOD BECA’S KITCHEN 80 Mihai Eminescu St, 0744 344 700, www.becaskitchen.ro
ZEXE
An unusual stop on the capital’s restaurant scene. The venue is cozy and makes you feel the same, with the food made by the owner herself, Beca (Andreea), who is there almost every day. Dishes change every week, so the menu is on a blackboard, but the best option is to ask the owner’s opinion as she has a knack of knowing what you’d
80 Icoanei St, 021 242 1493 Expect a mixture of old and new traditional Romanian recipes made from a wide variety of ingredients, from appetizers to soups, fish, meat, and, of course, desserts. The location also tells a story of Interwar Bucharest, if you look for it. 50 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
Beca’s Kitchen
This central restaurant tells the story of the birth of Modern Romania in the mid 19th century through different menus: Monastery, Greek, French, AustroHungarian, Russian and Bourgeois. To learn more about Romanian cuisine at its best, order a combination of Monastery, Greek and Bourgeois dishes, such as eggplant salad, monastic bulz, grilled trout or roasted pork knuckle with beans.
enjoy when you can’t name it yourself.
(RON 49), rib eye steak (RON 79), appetizers and, of course, desserts (RON 17-19).
BIO FRESH 19 Leon Voda St, 021 331 7001, www.bio-fresh.ro
BIOMEDITERRANEO 3A Ion Campineanu St, 021 330 0112, www.biomediterraneo.ro
Pukka Tukka
Bio Fresh is bang on the modern organic, no-meat trend. The menu spans breakfast, lunch and dinner, moving from hot soya milk, to salads, which make up most of the lunch options, to more ambitious entrees. Prices are lower than you might expect from a raw-vegan restaurant.
STEAK HOUSES BARBIZON
Biomediterraneo
Located in the Pullman hotel, this is held by some to be the best steakhouse in town. The bison steak is the star of the menu, which also includes Italian and Asian dishes, several creative salads combining different influences and a large selection of fancy desserts. Biomediterraneo explores gastronomic cultures from the Mediterranean through fresh bites that fit into a healthy lifestyle. The menu has a generous raw section, along with plenty of soups and salads.
PUKKA TUKKA Amzei Square, 0733 145 034, www.pukkatukka.ro Probably the only organic food bar in Bucharest, Pukka Tukka offers a variety of options, including soups (RON 14), salads (RON 29-44), breakfasts (RON 15-34), salmon
BUFFALO BAZ 49 Calea Floreasca, www.buffalobaz.com For tasty burgers in impressive sizes and a good choice of side dishes, this is the place – and the dining public knows it: it pays to book at busy times. The restaurant is child-friendly.
J.W. STEAKHOUSE JW Marriott Hotel, 90 Calea 13 Septembrie, 021 403 1010
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RESTAURANTS
World Trade Center, 10 Montreal Square, 021 202 1635
Osho
RESTAURANTS
Beef belief Pure Americana, with a selection of the best of the USA, from where all of the produce is imported. The steaks are aged for 21 days at 4 degrees before you get your teeth into them. Side dishes are chosen with the same care as the meat. The house’s steakhouse concept has been imported intact from the group’s flagship hotel, Grosvenor House in London.
OSHO 19 Primaverii St, 021 568 3031, www.osho-restaurant.ro
PRIME STEAK AND SEAFOOD 52 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
Housed in a cellar, diners here can savor a steak prepared to perfection, the meat selected from worldwide awarded producers, in a special environment. The star of the menu is the exclusive Irish Hereford prime beef steak. As well as the hand-cut selections of prime beef, the menu also includes a wide selection of fresh seafood dishes and desserts. Due to the limited number of covers, reservations are recommended.
THE BEEF CLUB 30A Emil Pangrati St, www.thebeefclub.ro
The Beef Club
More than just a steakhouse, Osho also has a shop that sells all of its products, “over the counter” at retail prices. This includes not only the extensive range of meat products, but up to 20 Italian cheeses and salamis. Add to that a rich list of French and Italian fine wines, and you have a “deli where you can dine”.
Radisson Blu Hotel, 63-81B-4, Calea Victoriei, 021 311 9000
Another of the wave of meat eateries that have opened in recent years. A menu highlight is the wagyu beef, which diners can sample in wagyu Australian rib-eye for RON 320, but there are many other choices. Diners whose palate favors the piscatorial can select lobsters directly from the restaurant’s aquarium for prices from RON 290 to RON 340 for a lobster thérmidor, an oven-baked lobster with Béchamel cheese sauce.
a long menu and belly dancers in the evening.
FOUR SEASONS DOROBANTI 177 Calea Dorobantilor, 021 233 9431, www.four-seasons.ro
VACAMUUU / THE MOOCOW 111 Calea Floreasaca, 0731 351 153
DIVAN 46 Franceza St, 021 312 3034, www.thedivan.ro
From the same owners as the Vasile Lascar location, known for serving some of the best Lebanese food in the city, comes this more upmarket eatery. The meze is a highlight, and don’t forget to try the Lebanese yoghurt, made with mint and garlic, and the homemade lemonade.
ZAITOONE
Divan
2 Nicolae Caranfil St, 0737 299 900, www.zaitoone.ro
Kebab lovers can take their pick from beef, lamb, chicken and marinated meat stuffed in an eggplant. Ahead of its competitors, Divan has
Meze, grilled meats and kebabs can be followed off with a lip-smacking Lebanese dessert – the katayef (sweet dumplings filled with cream or nuts), which are mouth-watering. Book a table on the terrace. BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 53
RESTAURANTS
ORIENTAL
Four Seasons Dorobanti
The meat market décor here may well suit local carnivores. This is currently one of the trendiest eateries in Bucharest, with a wide variety of red meat from special Angus beef to lamb and veal. There are extensive salads and side dishes, in case you want to go with a vegetarian friend.
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
SOUVENIR SHOPS In recent years, local peasant-style tops have been big worldwide, tapping into the trend of going back to one’s roots. Traditional Romanian clothing designs have remained unchanged throughout their history, which goes back a long way. The basic garment for both men and women is composed of a shirt or chemise, called “ie” in Romanian, which can be made from hemp, linen or wool. This was tied round the waist using a fabric belt, narrow for women and wider for men. La Blouse Roumaine, a 1940 painting by Henri Matisse, depicts a peasant woman dressed in a “ie”, her plaits braided into a crown and with her hands in her lap. Matisse was fascinated by the Romanian blouse, which he discovered through his friendship with the painter Theodor Pallady. The picture is on display at the National Museum of Modern Art in Paris.
PEASANT MUSEUM SOUVENIR SHOP Sos. Kiseleff 3, 021 317 9661 A wide selection of themed items and gifts can be found in the museum shop: quality traditional peasant clothes, icons and naïve art, as well as artistically unique tapestries, wooden and glass icons, handmade metallic objects, tiles, knitwear, folklore dolls and souvenirs. Prices are high.
ROMARTIZANA 16-20 Calea Victoriei, 021 313 1465 Specialized in folk art and handicraft, the Romartizana shop sells typical Romanian folk art from the country’s old regions and promotes traditional handicrafts and craftsmanship, while supporting and guiding activity in the field. Shoppers can admire and buy folk costumes, embroidered blouses, silk headdresses, ceramics, wooden objects, woolen folk weaves, as well as useful handmade objects and home decorations, such as embroideries, blankets, crocheted table cloths, lacy patterned fabrics, crocheted drapes and curtains.
SOUVENIR SHOP 13 Smardan St, 021 310 3225, www.souvenir-shop.com.ro Located in the Old Town area, this outlet has both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts, from postcards to T-shirts with funny mes54 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
sages, such as “Send more tourists, last ones tasted great” – signed by Dracula. The shop is open daily from 10:00 to 20:00.
designers. If you're looking for smart outfits, creative accessories or if you just want to see how Romanian fashion looks like, Band of Creators is the place to be.
UNIREA SHOPPING CENTER Piata Unirii, 021 303 0208, www.unireashop.ro The retail center is home to two souvenirs shops selling products showcasing traditional Romanian and Bucharest landmarks and sights (old and new postcards, maps, mugs, fridge magnets), as well as books and Romanian wine bottles in special gift packs.
UNIVERSITATE PASSAGE SOUVENIR SHOP Between Nicolae Balcescu Blvd and Regina Elisabeta Blvd
SHOPPING
A small souvenir shop can be found in Universitate Passage, near the Tourist Information Center. Postcards, mugs, traditional clothing and small statuettes are on sale.
ROMANIAN DESIGNERS CLOTHES AND DECO BAND OF CREATORS 14 Benjamin Franklin St, 0754 041 735, www.bandofcreators.com In the heart of Bucharest, near the Romanian Athenaeum, there is this cozy and intimate space, filled with designer clothing and accessories, called Band of Creators Designers' Store. As the name itself states the creators from the band are emerging designers from Eastern Europe, but we also have a fine selection of established Romanian 56 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
COCOR STORE 29-33 I.C. Bratianu Blvd www.cocor.ro Unique for the Romanian fashion designers’ gallery on its second floor, which currently brings together more than 30 local labels, Cocor offers a variety of clothes and accessories at affordable prices along with bespoke options. Brands include: Doina Levintza, Liza Panait, Catalin Botezatu, Mihai Albu, Anca & Silvia Negulescu, Elena Perseil, Adelina Ivan, Agnes Toma, Cristian Samfira and Cristina Nichita.
DADA 94bis Matei Voievod St (restaurant/showroom), 1 Tache Ionescu St (shop), www.dada.ro After enjoying a fusion lunch in the unmistakable Dada style, you can pick up a dress or bag at production prices, as the building’s upper floor hosts the = factory itself. Downtown, Dada products and other fancy local labels like Edita Lupea and Ioana Covalcic can be found in the little shop at Piata Amzei.
KRISTINA DRAGOMIR HATS 51 Mihail Kogalniceanu Blvd, 2nd floor, access code 11, www.kristinadragomir.com Artistic hats are created on frames made by the renowned UK Royal House specialists, with the finest
DECOR ATELIER ANDA ROMAN 42 Grigore Alexandrescu St Atelier Anda Roman
and most exotic materials purchased in London, where the designer learned her craft. This is a fantasy world where women’s headgear has no limits. Dragomir is available to discuss bespoke hat options and give styling advice by appointment only, from 18.3021.00, Monday to Friday.
MUSETTE
SHOPPING
114 Calea Victoriei, Sun Plaza, Promenada, Mega Mall, Baneasa Shopping City, Bucuresti Mall, Unirea Shopping Center, AFI Cotroceni Park. www.musettegroup.ro A classic feminine look and comfort, designed by an Italian team, are what characterize the Romanian-based footwear brand Musette. Bags, clutches and belts, in various colors and styles, are also manufactured under the same name. Cristhelen B is Musette’s premium brand for woman, an exclusive line produced in limited editions. For men, the Giannini line of shoes and accessories is made to the same high standards of quality and affordability.
NISSA Unirea Shopping Center, AFI Palace Cotroceni, Cora Pantelimon, Centrul Comercial Feeria-Baneasa, Centrul Comercial Orhideea. www.nissa.ro A 100 percent Romanian apparel brand for women with a modernclassical style in keeping with the latest international trends, but a very good price/quality ratio. There is a network of shops, most of them in malls, but also a flagship store close to Romana Square (39 Dacia Blvd.).
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Housed in an innovative, avantgarde space, Atelier Anda Roman’s subtle and innovative design can produce creative living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms, children’s rooms, office space, kitchens and even bathrooms. With products sourced from local producers as well as France, Belgium, Holland, England, Italy and antique markets, the boutique showcases furniture, decorations, toys and fabrics, and you can ponder your options over a green tea, coffee or gingerbread.
ICONIC FOOD WINE & DESIGN 7 Aleea Alexandru, near Victoriei Square With a focus on classic, high-quality design, this airy and minimalist outlet is nonetheless unselfconsciously warm and friendly. Housed in a discreet and elegant villa in the Aviatorilor area, the concept store displays unique interior design objects, gifts for the home, fashion and beauty items, wine and gourmet foods. The showroom includes top local designer brands along with international ones, such as Fornassetti, Ingo Maurer, Palucco, Edra, Jars Ceramics, Lara Bohinc, Uncommon Matters and Hermes Vintage.
Advertorial
SKY BARS 18 LOUNGE BY EMBASSY
18 Lounge
3-5 Presei Libere Square, City Gate South Tower, 18th floor
Looking out over the Arch of Triumph, Casin Monastery, Herastrau Park and Lake and Kiseleff Boulevard, 18 Lounge is part of the popular Embassy restaurant chain. With modern European dishes and a fine liquor menu to boot, this is a good choice for a classy evening.
ALLHAMBRA
SKY-BARS
16 Splaiul Unirii, SIF Muntenia Building, 10th floor Bucharest may not boast a Seine, Rhine or a Thames, but the Dambovita River, on view from this restaurant, still makes for a pretty backdrop. A live band and dance floor add to the jollity, and the meat and seafood are the menu’s fortes. It’s a popular wedding venue, so best to check it’s open to the public before setting out.
ASTRODOM Address: 33 Alexandru Constantinescu St, Residence Hotel, fifth floor
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Considered the most romantic sky restaurant in Bucharest, the terrace has an extraordinary view over the verdant north of the city. It won’t be a cheap date: wine runs from RON 85 to several hundred RON, while Don Perignon champagne will set you back RON 1,090. Starters are priced at RON 16-39, salads RON 24-35 and mains can exceed RON 100. However, the money also buys you the view, which is amazing, especially at sunset.
OLD NICK’S PUB ROOF GARDEN Address: Lahovari Square, second floor Pitching itself as an English pub, by the name, with traditional Italian cuisine, Old Nick’s was one on a crowded market. But the place recently opened a roof garden and the few tables up there make all the difference, offering a glimpse of Little Paris at its best: beautiful houses with ornate architectural detail.
MNAC TERRACE 2-4 Izvor St / Palatul Parlamentului, E4 wing, entrance through Calea 13 Septembrie, fourth floor Though often dubbed a monstrosity and a monument to Ceausescu’s megalomania, the People’s Palace has its assets, one of which is a cafe-terrace for visitors to the National Museum of Contemporary Art. Unfortunately
Silk Panoramic
The height of fine dining the better (city center) views are from the other side of the building – here you can see a palace garden and the construction of the Romanian People’s Salvation Cathedral – but by night the cityscape comes into its own. Enjoy the spectacle and ambience with a lemonade, coffee or beer.
SILK PANORAMIC 4 Nistor Ion St, behind Bucharest Museum, ninth floor
48 Iancu de Hunedoara Blvd, 15th floor For an elevated view near Victoriei Square, this is the place to come, even if the sights are mostly apartment buildings. The menu, which promises both international and Mediterranean food, gets mixed reviews. Order a coffee – or something stronger – and enjoy the sunset.
SKY BAR 155 Calea Dorobanti, fifth floor A green and light space, Skybar is popular both for business meetings, and for relaxation and escape from the city bustle. The specially designed roof can be completely closed to protect guests from rain, wind or snow, but when opened it offers a superb view of the sky – as the name suggests. Spinach risotto, parmesan and wood shrimps and chocolate mousse with seasonal fruits and mascarpone are menu musts. BR CITY GUIDE 2015 | 61
SKY-BARS
Hosted by the Z Boutique Hotel, the restaurant looks out over Universitatii Square and a clutch of major central landmarks: the National Theater, Intercontinental Hotel, Coltea Hospital and the University. On the other side is a great perspective over the People’s House, which is the cherry on the cake. The chef is Sicilian, so expect to taste fresh and authentic Italian creations such as Tagliata di tonno e sesamo and Tiramisu all’arancia. Tip: the place is very quiet in the morning.
SOLE
WELLNESS CLUB FLOREASCA Address: 1 Mircea Eliade Blvd, www.clubfloreasca.ro The resort, situated in a quiet area of Bucharest, has an indoor pool equipped with a state-of-the-art water filtration and heating system, sauna and fitness space. There is a special area for sun bathing, if you want a natural tan, plus facilities for children. The entrance fee is RON 80 per day, and one-, three-, six-month and one-year subscriptions are available.
Monday to Friday. Subscriptions also include entry to the gym, sauna and massage area.
DAIMON WELLNESS CLUB Address: 10 Calea Piscului St, www.daimonclub.ro/wellness/ The club has two swimming pools, outdoor and indoor, as well as fitness classes, spin, massages and sauna, to help you get in shape for your summer holiday. A day pass costs RON 60 at weekends, or RON 40 from Monday to Friday. Ask about the discounts for family members and children.
CLUB SNAGOV Address: 1B Nufarului St, Snagov Sat, Ilfov, www.snagovclub.ro To relax in water while you rehydrate, try the palm tree-adorned Snagov Club Pool Bar. About 25 minutes from Bucharest, the bar serves a range of cocktails which you can enjoy in the Jacuzzi. There is also a Turkish bath (steam sauna), massage, various gym equipment to train all the main muscle groups and chaise longues.
CROWNE PLAZA HOTEL Address: 1 Poligrafiei Blvd, www.crowneplaza.ro
EDEN SPA Address: 4 Pictor Ion Negulici St. or 56 Calea Victoriei (Grand Hotel Continental), www.edenspa.ro Mind and body detox, gentlemen time, pregnancy specials and lastminute offers are among the packages here, not to mention the special spa-Jacuzzi-fitness subscription. At this time of year, Eden specialists recommend rejuvenating summer therapies, summer glow instant facial, Bella Lucce instant facial, cold & hot stone cooling massage and Balinesse massage.
WELLNESS
PESCARIU SPORTS & SPA In the north of the city, the hotel boasts a relaxing indoor heated pool, a leafy summer terrace and chaise-longues. As well as sunbathing, guests can enjoy a sauna, Jacuzzi and fitness room. The entrance fee is RON 65 from 62 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
Address: 3 Glodeni St, www.pescariusports.ro Since opening in 2012, this place has established itself as one of the most modern and luxurious pools in Bucharest, with a Jacuzzi, fun
Stejarii Country Club
Fun in the forest up at Baneasa jets and illumination systems, as well as a VIP area and restaurant and bar zone. The spa center offers dry and wet saunas as well as frigidarium, a technique used in Roman public baths which consists of using ice cold water after a sauna to close pores and regulate the body temperature, which rises above 38 degrees during the sauna. A day pass costs RON 60 on weekdays, and RON 100 at weekends, while the VIP zone charges RON 300 and RON 450 respectively.
STEJARII COUNTRY CLUB
WELLNESS
Address: 14 Jandarmeriei St, www.stejariicountryclub.ro Total bodily wellbeing under one roof is on offer thanks to 1,000 sqm of unique spa space in Baneasa forest, north of Bucharest. The venue has individual multipurpose therapy spaces, scrubbing wet rooms, an indoor relaxation 64 | BR CITY GUIDE 2015
pool with bubble-jet lounge chairs, a sauna with forest view, steam room and hammam. The VIP day suite includes double Jacuzzi, double therapy space, private bathroom and showers, deep relaxation day bed, champagne bar, open fireplace and a private sun terrace with forest view.
VITALITY WELLNESS CLUB Address: 3-5 Poligrafiei Blvd, www.vitalitywellnessclub.ro Vitality Wellness Club, the latest facility to open up in the north of Bucharest, includes an indoor semi-Olympic pool, a fitness room, plus dry and wet sauna. In mid-July an outdoor pool, children’s playground, all season Jacuzzi, relaxation zone with 80 sun beds and a terrace joined the mix. Membership packages run from EUR 110/daytime/month to EUR 1,090/full-time/year.