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of their hierarchical society. Since everyone bathes naked in the same pools, everyone is equal in a relaxed environment. One of the modern incarnations of this ancient philosophy is the work trip, in which colleagues and bosses go to onsen resorts for a weekend of bonding. Many foreign visitors are anxious about the etiquette of onsen bathing but, while the Japanese are sticklers for convention, many of the rules are increasingly relaxed. The main challenge for novices is that they have to leave their clothes and inhibitions behind in the changing rooms. Onsen bathers carry with them only a small hand-towel. Historically, both sexes bathed together, but these days all but the smallest rural onsen are divided into male and female sections. Onsen patrons always take a long, serious shower before clambering into the pools, a ritual that might take a good 20 minutes. Taps
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are usually at waist height, and patrons sit on small stools, using bowls to scoop water over themselves. The Japanese say this is as much about cleansing your soul as your physical body – another means to wash away stress. The Japanese are always clean before they take the onsen plunge, and never use soap or shampoo in the baths. The best onsen moments are in the waters, floating in the warmth and breathing in the steamy air, as muscles relax and the mind unwinds to the sound of gurgling water. Patrons sit with their eyes downcast, not only for modesty’s sake but because onsen bring on meditative moods.
Onsen getaway ... winter in Oshuku, a hotsprings resort in Iwate Prefecture.
A ir Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Tokyo once a week, but will introduce a second flight from July 6. See airniugini.com.pg.