GETAWAYS
Costa Rica Sounds of the rainforest
Howler monkeys Photo courtesy of Costa Rica Tourism
BY JENNIFER MERRICK
Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park Photo by Jennifer Merrick
Howls fter an adventure-filled day exploring sites around Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica, we all felt a little dozy on the way back to our resort for the evening. So, we were almost stunned when our van pulled over onto the shoulder of a main road. Had the vehicle broken down? Flat tire?
A
“Howler monkeys,” announced our unflappable guide, Rhyan Cruz. He grabbed his ever-present telescope and led us out of the van. Sure enough, there were a troop of primates balancing on the hydro wires and bouncing around in the trees that lined the road. The monkeys lived up to their name, vocalizing loud, deep, barking bellows. Cruz set up his telescope, and we did our best to get close-up shots of the playful creatures. But, like monkeys do, bounded out of view soon as the focus was right. Howler monkeys are one of 250 species of mammals in Costa Rica, a country with some of the highest biodiversity in the world. Located in Central America north 16
of Panama, over a quarter of this small country—the size of West Virginia—is protected wilderness. Though plentiful, some wildlife could be hard to spot without someone like Cruz, who as required for all guides in Costa Rica, has a license and extensive training. With a degree in eco-tourism and over eighteen years of experience, Cruz not only had a sharp eye but an expert ear. “We usually hear wildlife before we see them,” he told us. Howler monkeys were obvious, but other creatures less so. He explained that the sound of the white-face monkey came from the throat. “Caw,” he mimicked. We saw acrobatic spider
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monkeys, named for their spiderlike appearance when they dangle by their tails from trees, earlier that day at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park. This 600-hectare property featured sixteen bridges— ten fixed and six hanging—and led us through the cloud forest high above the jungle floor. Back in the van, we headed to Buena Vista Lodge, located in the more remote northern part of the country near the border of Nicaragua. Situated on the edge of the Rincon de la Vieja National Park, this eco-property offered plenty of opportunities to see and hear wildlife. The next day, as soon as I opened the door of our basic but
comfortable room, I was greeted by a large iguana basking in the sun. And as I continued up to breakfast, several unusual-looking creatures I had never seen before crossed in front of my path. They had striped tails that stood upright and a long, pointed snout for a nose. I learned later that they are Coatis—tree-climbing mammals as common here as racoons are to us. Activities at Buena Vista Lodge range from ziplining through the rainforest and mountain water slide to horseback riding and hiking. I opted for horseback riding, even though I had little equestrian experience; and I was grateful that my gentle horse was calm, because I certainly wasn’t. After about ten minutes of trying not to hyperventilate, I relaxed and looked around. Rewarded with incredible views of lush valleys, I breathed deeply and even loosened my white-knuckled grip on the reigns long enough to take some pictures. Cruz was doing what he does best—listening. At one point, he motioned for us to stop and pointed at the bushes. And there was the most extraordinary bird I had ever seen in the wild—a Yellow-throated Toucan. “I heard it,” he told us later. “Toucans crunch.”
