the british international school
Shanghai, China
FIRST EDITION 2010
THE ESSENTIALS
GUIDE SHANGHAI WWW.BISSHANGHAI.COM
THE ESSENTIALS
GUIDE SHANGHAI
the british international school
Shanghai, China
helping others to be the best they can be WWW.BISSHANGHAI.COM
E
ducation and learning has always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be. HELPING We do everything to support people and be useful to them, always keeping their best interests at heart. OTHERS Our communities: students, parents, policy makers, the societies in which we live and, of course, our own people. Our work reaches all of them. THRIVE To grow. To flourish. To learn. To be inspired. To stretch yourself further than you, or anyone else, thought possible. To experience more. To keep going, onwards and upwards, closer and closer to your aims and dreams.
CONTACT admissions@bisshanghai.com TO ARRANGE A VISIT TO OUR SCHOOL OR TO ORDER A SCHOOL PROSPECTUS
THE ESSENTIALS
GUIDE SHANGHAI Essentials Guide Shanghai 1st Edition Copyright Š The British International School 2010 All Rights Reserved Chief Editor - Travis Murray Primary Design - Shanghai Yang Ma Advertising Secondary Design - Travis Murray, Richard Restell Primary Copywriting - Tom Bewick Secondary Copywriting - Travis Murray, Mark Angus, Mike Embley Special thanks to Richard Restell for his excellent photography. While every possible effort has been taken to ensure that the facts contained within this guide are accurate, The British International School cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that this guide may contain. No part of this guide may be reproduced or distributed, by electronic means or any other, without the prior permission of the British International School.
TABLE OF CONTENTS PREPARING TO GO
Culture Shock p 82
Introduction p 8
Education p 84
History p 20
Education Supplement p 94
People and Culture p 22 Language p 28 Geography p 30
LIVING IN SHANGHAI
Climate p 34
Health and Wellness p 132
Administrative Preparations p 36
Practising Religion p 137
Books, Films and Music p 38
WHEN YOU ARRIVE
Eating and Drinking p 140 Shopping p 146 Tourist Attractions p 156
When You Arrive p 44
Parks and Recreation p 160
First Things First p 45
Golfing p 166
Getting Around p 46
Family Activities p 168
Money and Banking p 52
Family Supplement p 178
Getting Connected p 54
Getting Involved p 184
Health Care p 58
2010 World Expo p 186
Temporary Accommodation p 64
Shanghai Neighbourhoods p 188
Finding Housing p 70
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement p 200
Getting Settled p 80
Maps p 222
Introduction
I
f you are moving to Shanghai, prepare to be surprised. The outside world may perceive the city as a smoggy, teeming industrial hub. To most foreign residents however, Shanghai is a dynamic, vibrant, inspiring and cosmopolitan metropolis. Most expats reveal experiencing an overall feeling of ‘this is where things are happening.’ At the same time, Shanghai startles newcomers with its beauty and street-level charm amid alarmingly rapid growth.
The charm lies in the city’s cultural and architectural vestiges that echo its unique colonial past combined with its unrelenting drive into the future. Although an outsider will always be the laowai (foreigner), the people of Shanghai are welcoming. Look forward to good friendships and respectable business relationships with the local people.
S
hanghai has a way of luring people in and keeping them. Be prepared to hear from expats and Chinese alike that they came to Shanghai to work or study years ago and then couldn’t bring themselves to leave.
L
iving and working in Shanghai means amazing career opportunities, exciting language challenges and cultural immersion. You can enjoy food from all over Asia, mingle in a large and diverse expatriate community and be a part of the fastest growing economy in the world. However, this also comes with frustrations.
Shanghai is crowded, noisy and chaotic. People push on the Metro. The air quality is often low. Adjusting to a new language, a new culture and a new government can be frustrating. Acclimating to a vastly different environment takes time, patience, flexibility and a good sense of humour.
T
his Essentials Guide Shanghai is designed to help you prepare for Shanghai and settle in once you get there. Despite its challenges, Shanghai is now a much easier place to live as an expat. It has worldclass hospitals, Western-standard accommodation and high-quality accredited international schools. Newcomers can find countless cultural events, interest-groups and organisations that make them feel like Shanghai is a home away from home.
PREPARING TO GO
Preparing to Go
CONTENTS INTRO
Preparing to go will be as much a mental journey as it will be a practical one. Understanding more about the dramatically different culture you are about to encounter will help prepare you for the experience. You can read a book or watch a movie we recommend or you can engage in your own research. Either way, the process will reward you. The practical aspects of preparation are, of course, vital to ensuring that your journey begins on a positive note. This section will help you prepare on both fronts.
History p 20 People and Culture p 22 Language p 28 Geography p 30 Climate p 34 Administrative Preparations p 36 Books, Films and Music p 38
19 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
History History
M “Bund” literally means an embankment along a waterfront or an organisation - both of which have relevance for the Bund in Shanghai.
The Bund today
odern Shanghai has been shaped by its position as a port city on the Yangtze Delta and the Chinese-Western business coalitions first established in the 19th century. Originally a fishing and textile port on the Yangtze Delta, Shanghai (‘on the sea’ in Chinese) emerged as a popular export base for the British East India Company in the late 18th century as Chinese tea, silk and porcelain became more popular in Great Britain. However, neither the isolationist Qing Dynasty nor Chinese consumers desired any British products in return, creating for Britain an unsustainable trade imbalance. To redress this situation, the enterprising British capitalised on the Chinese fondness for opium by importing a superior product from India. In order to protect this dubious trade from Chinese resistance, the far more industrialised British overpowered the Chinese army in what came to be known as the First Opium War. In the resulting 1842 Treaty of Nanking, the Chinese ceded Hong Kong and extraterritorial concessions in five other Chinese cities, including Shanghai. The British named their settlement along the Huangpu River the Bund, and later consolidated with the American community to form the International Concession. France also claimed a concession from a weakened Qing Court. Throughout the second half of the 19th century, Shanghai grew rapidly and the foreign residents built an impressive infrastructure. Shanghai boasted China’s best roads and hotels, its first gaslights, telephones, electric power, cars and trams. The city continued to prosper throughout the early part of the 20th century, welcoming more immigrants from Russia and Japan, each bringing with them their customs and culture. During the 1920s and 30s, the city became legendary for money, gangsters, drugs and brothels. The party ended soon after Shanghai was liberated by the Communists in 1949. The dance halls and villas were converted into ‘cultural palaces’ and stylish Parisian apparel
20 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
History was traded in for grey unisex tunics and caps. Shanghai was the headquarters of the ‘Gang of Four’, who made it their business to rid the city of the ‘Four Olds’: old culture, old customs, old habits and old ways of thinking. Of course, what was deemed ‘old’ was left to their discretion. By the time Richard Nixon visited Shanghai for his historic meeting with Zhou Enlai in 1976, the city was completely dark after nightfall. Even in 1988, ten years after Deng Xiaoping launched the economic reform era, the tallest building in town was the Park Hotel, built in 1934. In the 1990s, the lights came back on, and in a big way. The government decreed that Shanghai was to become the country’s new economic powerhouse. The skyline, and the city, changed beyond recognition. Skyscrapers, roads, trains and bridges were built at breakneck speed. By the time Shanghai was awarded the bid to host the 2010 World Expo in 2002, it was a modern megalopolis, with a population approaching 20 million, and once again a centre of global commerce and innovation. Not to be outdone by 2008 Olympics host and rival Beijing, the city is sparing no expense – or architectural relic of its past – to impress international visitors to the World Expo. However, strolls along the Bund, the French Concession and the Old City still allow visitors a glimpse of Shanghai’s rich and colourful history. Shanghai is now regarded as mainland China’s centre of finance and trade and the driving force behind China’s booming economy. Modern development began with the economic reforms in 1992 and economic growth has been in double digits for 17 straight years. The city is undertaking massive public works projects at an unparalleled pace and scale. Besides being a major international manufacturing and financial services centre, Shanghai is also one of the world’s busiest ports, surpassed only by Singapore.
The lights of Shanghai have come back on... in a big way.
REALITY CHECK You are moving to one of the world’s great cities... prepare to be overwhelmed.
21 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
People and Culture Population
E
stimates of Shanghai’s population vary, depending on whether long-term and temporary migrants are included in the calculation. The residential population is projected to reach 19 million by 2010, which does not include a floating population of 2-4 million unregistered migrants. Included in the first number are about 120,000 registered foreigners. According to government statistics, 70% of the foreign population works in joint venture companies.
Shanghai's Foreign Population
While China remains strongly unified, it remains very diverse. Understanding traditional regional rivalries and differences will help you understand China and the Chinese people better. These differences can be understood by a north-south eastwest relationship. You will find that southerners are different than northerners and easterners are different than westerners. Sound familiar?
Japan Korea US Singapore Germany France Canada Malaysia UK Australia Other
Culture
G
etting to know a new culture is one of the most exciting aspects of travelling. A city as vibrant and diverse as Shanghai presents endless wonderment to Western visitors. The city is composed of migrants from all over China and the world. Shanghai’s history of business and technological innovation and as the nexus of East and West in China creates a dynamic energy that lures many visitors in... and keeps them there. In China, the city is known for its ‘ocean culture’ (haipai) or even ‘overseas culture’ (yangpai), characterised by an acute and receptive sensitivity to foreign ideas, attitudes, styles and opinions. This is commonly referred to as the distinguishing feature of Shanghai’s culture compared to that of other
22 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
People and Culture Chinese cities. The Shanghainese are self-confident; they don’t fear the erosion of their past by international trends, since it was largely these very forces that shaped their city in the first place. They have always been ardent consumers of Western brands and ideas. Their compatriots tend to view this East-meets-West mentality with a degree of scepticism, feeling that they should be more reverent of local tradition. The city is, and has always been, a melting pot of different ethnic groups, both domestic and international, all drawn here for the same reason: to make money. Evidence of this can be found everywhere. Western business-
HELPING OTHERS TO BE THE BEST THEY CAN BE
men flash their gold cards at high-end bars alongside tycoons from all over the world. Meanwhile, migrant workers are pulling an all-nighter at a highrise tower construction site, hoping to send a few extra yuan back to their families in the countryside. Shanghai is also the birthplace of China’s new white collar professional. The arrival of foreign corporations in the 1990s
23 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
People and Culture raised the demand for educated employees, and salaries are considerably higher than in public sector jobs. The media image of this group has been rather glamorous and, for the Chinese white collar worker (bai ling), working for a large overseas corporation is a status symbol. Despite these distinctions, Shanghai is still in China and in many respects very Chinese. There are a few intricacies of Chinese etiquette to be aware of before arriving in Shanghai.
Face Expect to see an interesting fusion of Eastern and Western fashion when you arrive in Shanghai. What you may consider inappropriate at home does not necessarily apply in Shanghai.
T
he concept of ‘face’ is prevalent throughout China and can never be underestimated. People go to great lengths to acquire it through displays of wealth or generosity. For example, never insist on paying for a meal hosted by a local, especially if it is in their home. This would be a serious faux pas. Complimenting someone on their appearance or business acumen – especially in front of their pals or colleagues – is a sure winner. Confrontation and public criticism are guaranteed face-destroyers and will inevitably be counter-productive. When in doubt, be lavish with compliments, or at the very least be quiet and respectful. In business, understanding ‘face’ can mean the difference between success and failure or promotion and demotion. If you want to become a master,
Prepare to sacrifice personal space in public areas.
24 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
People and Culture study how locals handle social situations and pay attention to those situations where subordinates are deferential to their superiors.
Public Behaviour
A
void expansive gestures, emotional displays, unusual facial expressions and sarcasm, as these will generate confused reactions. The Chinese dislike being touched by strangers. Conversely, the Chinese generally stand closer to each other than Europeans or North Americans when they are speaking. Putting your hands in your mouth is considered vulgar, so nailbiting and flossing in public are big no-nos. Shanghai is a smoker’s paradise. Cigarettes are cheap and smoked by many. A few restaurants are finally offering smoke-free sections. Spitting is very popular, ranging from minor spittle to a full-throttled, lung-rattling, expectorant cough. To many, this is inappropriate. However, the belief is that it is healthy to expel noxious fluids from the body and, despite half-hearted public efforts to encourage civility, it is hardly on the wane. The Chinese are generally not fond of public displays of affection such as kissing. While you may see women holding the arms of their loved ones, bolder displays are uncommon.
Conversation
N
egative replies are considered impolite. Instead of saying ‘No’, answer indirectly. Replies such as ‘Maybe’, ‘I’ll think about it’ or ‘We’ll see’ will generate a much better reaction and allow the questioner to save face. When addressing a group, acknowledge the most senior person first. Questions about your age, income and marital status are common. If you don’t want to reveal this information, prepare non-specific responses. Do not be surprised if there are periods of silence during dinner. It is a sign of politeness or thought and need not be broken with uncomfortable small talk.
REALITY CHECK If you want to be happy in China, leave your preconceptions at home and open your mind. Everything will be very different and confusing at times... but the experience will help you understand the world better.
Politics
A
void controversial topics such as the Falun Gong and Tibet. You’ll immediately be faced with hushed silences and possibly even suspicious stares. Googling these same issues could lead to your server being shut down. Avoid being openly critical of the Chinese state or Chinese culture around people you don’t know well, even if it happens to be the topic of conversation. For many Chinese people, it is OK if they complain about government policy or activities, but they may take offence to foreigners doing so. When in doubt, it is best to commiserate by lamenting similar problems within your own government or culture.
25 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
PHOTO BY RICHARD RESTELL
Language
Language
S
hanghai’s official language is Mandarin Chinese. A notoriously difficult language to learn, it has no set alphabet and instead uses characters, which number approximately 50,000. Fortunately for Mandarin learners, not all are in everyday use and mastery of about 3,000 is enough to read a newspaper. Learning spoken Mandarin is made easier through the use of pinyin, a phonetic transliteration system that uses the Roman alphabet to represent pronunciation. Nonetheless, Mandarin is still tricky to learn because it is a tonal language. Each character is assigned one of five tones in spoken form: first tone (high and level), second tone (rising from medium to high), third tone (starting low, dipping lower and then rising again), fourth tone (sharply falling from high to low) and a fifth neutral tone. Depending on which tone is employed, one pinyin word will have numerous meanings. For example, the word ma can mean ‘mother’, ‘hemp’, ‘horse’ or ‘to swear or reprimand’. This, of course, can cause embarrassing misunderstandings.
28 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Language
Shanghainese, or Shanghaihua, is derived from the Northern Wu dialect. It exists only as an everyday spoken lingo, with no written form. For a beginning Mandarin learner, it can be frustrating to wholeheartedly attempt a new language only to be confused on the streets and in the shops by hearing another foreign language. However, Mandarin is the official language of Shanghai and most people speak it well. The Chinese are generally much more patient and forgiving with Westerners struggling through Mandarin than vice versa. Locals greatly appreciate any effort to learn their language, and speaking a few phrases is seen as a sign of respect and will help you interact and integrate with the locals. It is advisable to learn some words and phrases right away. Pick up a phrase book and watch or listen to a tutorial a few times before you go. All of these resources are easy to find at bookstores or online. English is becoming more widely spoken in Shanghai in most central neighbourhoods, particularly in establishments frequented by Westerners. Hotels, cafés, restaurants, bars, banks, museums, fitness clubs and boutiques will normally have at least one English-speaker on hand. However, do not expect to find English spoken by the average passer-by on the street, in taxis or buses, in local restaurants and markets or generally in neighbourhoods outside the city centre that are not near expat villas. Many signs, notices and publications in Shanghai are written in what is often called ‘Chinglish’. This new, developing form of communication is derived from poor translations carried out by Chinese English-speakers. Chinglish is usually decipherable with a bit of patience and a keen eye for humour.
29 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Geography Geography
T
he geography of Shanghai is characterised by its location on the Yangtze River Delta on China’s east coast and its proximity to the Pacific Ocean via the East China Sea. The city is centred around the Huangpu River, a tributary of the Yangtze River, and extends outwards in all directions. The suburbs and satellite towns reach east to the East China Sea, north and west to Jiangsu Province, and south to Zhejiang Province over Hangzhou Bay.
REALITY CHECK
The vast majority of Shanghai’s 6,340 sq km (2,447.9 sq mi) of land area is flat, apart from a few hills in the southwest corner. This is due to its location on the alluvial plain of the Yangtze River Delta. The city has many rivers and lakes and is known for its rich water resources. Its coastal, riverside location and warm climate ensure easy access to China’s interior.
On any given day, you may ask about the haze that seems at times to be ever present. Expect locals to tell you, “It’s just mist!” Whilst there may be mist in the air, the source of that mist is not altogether certain. The suburbs tend to have more clean air days.
30 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Geography Cityscape
S
hanghai city proper is bisected by the Huangpu River and therefore can be split into two sides: Puxi, on the west side, is the historic centre of the city, and is a term used to describe as a whole the districts of Yangpu, Hongkou, Zhabei, Putuo, Changning, Xuhui, Jing’an, Luwan and Huangpu. Pudong is located on the east side and is the location of Shanghai’s rapid development, including its famous new skyline and the Lujiazui financial district. The outer districts, or suburbs, surrounding the city proper, are Baoshan, Minhang, Jiading, Jinshan, Songjiang, Qingpu, Nanhui, Fengxian and the rural eastern part of Pudong. Shanghai’s only county, Chongming, is in the far north of the municipality and consists of the islands of Chongming, Changxing and Hengxia. Chongming Island is the site of one of the most ambitious green development projects in the world, which will see the formerly sleepy ‘rice bowl of Shanghai’ home to more than 500,000 residents when complete. The island is also the site of one of the largest migratory bird populations in China.
Changes are occurring in the cityscape of Shanghai at a breakneck speed. Expect to see many examples of development that cannot be seen anywhere else in the world. In advance of the 2010 World Expo the city has undergone a beautification process that will see the city in top shape for all visitors.
31 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Climate
S
Climate
hanghai is a subtropical city located at 31°12 N 121°30 E / 31.2°N 121.5°E, roughly the same latitude as Savanna, Georgia in North America and Seville, Spain in Europe. It has four distinct seasons, with grey and cold winters, hot and humid summers and beautiful springs and autumns. Thanks to its proximity to the sea Shanghai rarely sees snow, though it occasionally experiences sub-freezing temperatures. Summer temperatures can hit 40ºC, although the average high is around 32ºC. Most of Shanghai’s rain falls between April and September in three periods: spring rain, plum rain and autumn rain. The plum rain season, a phenomenon of the lower Yangtze region, is named after the fruit that ripens with its arrival between mid-June and early July. Typhoon season lasts from June to October and the storms bring strong winds, heavy rain and storm surges, which sometimes cause flooding in downtown areas along the Huangpu River.
34 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Climate
35 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Administrative Preparations Administrative Preparations
T
he process begins with the administrative matters. Do not put them off. In fact, this is the only part of the moving process you cannot put off, as China is strict about its bureaucratic procedures and you don’t want your transition to be interrupted by a preventable hiccup. Ship any necessary items through a private company such as DHL or FedEx. But remember, pretty much everything can be purchased in Shanghai. If you are shipping items to China, make a detailed inventory of all shipped and stored items. Here are some of the administrative matters to consider before you leave for China:
Visas & Documents
T
Most people tend to pack much more than they need when moving to China.
his is a key issue and should be your top priority, especially if you are travelling with children. All visitors, including tourists, require a visa. These are obtained through a Chinese embassy or consulate. Most tourists are issued with a single- or double-entry visa valid for 90 days with the possibility to extend. Processing times and costs vary by consulate so allow at least a week, although many consulates can expedite the process for an additional fee. Americans tend to have to pay a great deal more than citizens of other countries. Costs and waiting times are subject to change, so consult the Chinese consulate website as the time draws near. Business and student visas are usually multiple entry valid for three to six months, and allow the visitor to stay for the full specified period. They require a letter from the business or university. Long-term residency requires a ‘green card’ or residence permit. The formidable amount of paperwork needed for a green card includes at least ten passport photos – one for each of the ten application forms necessary. It is a five-step process that begins with a tourist visa. Employers will need to help you with the process, and they should be familiar with the procedures. Check the following websites for updated procedures and regulations: British citizens: www.chineseembassy.org.uk American citizens: www.china-embassy.org Canadian citizens: www.chinaembassycanada.org If you are moving to Shanghai as a family, you will need to bring medical records, as schools and universities will require these. You must also be prepared to provide your child’s previous school records and birth certificate. Contact your child’s current and previous schools as soon as possible to get the process moving. Even if you are not going to enroll in school, bringing at least a copy of your birth certificate is a good idea. This document is especially helpful at a consular office in the event that something happens to your passport.
36 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Administrative Preparations Here is a list of documents to bring for a long-term stay in Shanghai: - Passport and visa - Extra passport-size photos - Children’s birth certificates (copy for adults) - Marriage certificate - Children’s school records - Diploma and CV (for applying for work permit) - Driving licence (serves as back-up ID and allows you to obtain a Chinese licence) - Inventory of everything shipped - Medical records
Address & Phone
S
end change of address notices to banks and credit card companies. Even if you don’t yet have a permanent address in Shanghai, you should let your bank know that you are in China. Many banks block use of debit or credit cards in foreign countries if they have not been officially notified of the user’s travel plans. Check to see if your phone will work in China. However, if it is a long-term move, it is a better idea to drop or suspend your phone plan and get a Chinese phone number. This process is easy and inexpensive once you arrive in Shanghai.
Finance
I
t is always more complicated to organise and maintain your home finances from abroad. For any monthly payments, such as to credit card companies, arrange for online payments and banking. It is easy to forget monthly tasks from a new home. Check the status of your taxes and pension plans and make the necessary arrangements for these to be processed while you are away. Contact your bank to get details on procedures for transferring money back home.
Be aware that business hours my be completely different in your home country so taking care of business by phone may be very inconvenient.
37 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Books, Films and Music Books, Films and Music
T
he more you learn about China and Shanghai before arrival, the richer the experience will be when you get there. There are a lot of excellent books and films, either about Shanghai or using it as a compelling backdrop, that will inspire you to explore the city and think creatively while doing so. If you have time, pick up a couple of these books or films for different perspectives on your new home.
Not all media about China is avaiable in China due to government regulations. If you want to get informed it’s best to find the relevant media before departure.
Books: My Country My People Lin Yutang (1936) Written by the inventor of the Chinese printing press, this book is an exploration of the foundations of Chinese character. Though written more than 70 years ago it continues to be relevant today. My Country My People will help you understand the sometimes immense differences between Eastern and Western character. One Billion Customers: Lessons from the Front Lines of Doing Business in China James McGregor (2007) This is an interesting read for those travelling to do business in China. One Billion Customers explores case studies, personalities and the lessons they offer. What Does China Think? Mark Leonard (2008) A probing and detail-oriented investigation into the Chinese psyche. Leonard is a rising star in Western foreign policy circles and offers enlightening and surprising insights into intellectual and bureaucratic thinking in China. Mao: The Unknown Story Jung Chang & Jan Halliday (2005) This is a controversial biography of Mao Zedong. Building Shanghai: The Story of China’s Gateway Edward Denison & Guang Yu Ren (2006) Shanghai’s rapid growth and lack of coherent long-term planning is explored. Shanghai: The Rise and Fall of a Decadent City Stella Dong (2000) This is an historical account of the decadent times of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
38 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Books, Films and Music China Candid: The People on the People’s Republic of China Sang Ye (2006) A Chinese journalist’s interviews about life in modern-day China. Film: Code 46 Michael Winterbottom (2003) A dark, Orwellian sci-fi thriller with Shanghai as the backdrop. Jasmine Women Hou Yong (2004) A story about three generations of Shanghai women. Shanghai Triad Zhang Yimou (1995) A gangster film set in 1930s Shanghai. This is Shanghai’s version of The Godfather. Suzhou River Lou Ye (2000) A very surreal tale of lust and lost love set in poor, industrial Shanghai. Mission: Impossible III JJ Abrams (2006) Tom Cruise swings and leaps from the city’s skyscrapers, landing in the canal town of Xitang.
Getting informed before you leave will help you avoid culture shock and will greatly improve your enjoyment of your time in Shanghai and China.
Music: Cold Fairyland Their style combines Eastern melodies and rhythms with Western symphonic rock and classical music. The Original Shanghai Divas Collection Ian Widgery (2003) This album takes top Chinese pop stars from the 20s and 30s and remixes them with up-tempo grooves and laid-back beats. Fragrance of Night Li Xianglan (2003) This album combines famous anthems from 1930s Shanghai with 16 other tracks.
39 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
WHEN YOU ARRIVE
When You Arrive
CONTENTS INTRO
When you arrive in Shanghai try to get your bearings. It’s helpful to remember a few landmarks that you can see from a distance, though in Shanghai this can be difficult because even with some of the tallest buildings in the world, when you are at street level often all you can see is what is right in front of you. Add to this the fact that Shanghai is big really big - and you may spend your first few days wondering if you could ever find your way back to your hotel if you wandered away. Ensure that you have a map with you if you do plan to go exploring on your own. The British International School makes the best one available. Ask your relocation agent if they have one to give you.
When You Arrive p 44 First Things First p 45 Getting Around p 46 Money and Banking p 52 Getting Connected p 54 Health Care p 58 Temporary Accommodation p 64 Finding Housing p 70 Getting Settled p 80 Culture Shock p 82 Education p 84 Education Supplement p 94
43 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
When You Arrive When You Arrive
When You Arrive
A It is a good idea to take your mobile phone with you. Make sure your plan will allow you to use it in China and keep an Englishspeaking Chinese contact that is willing to help in your address book. Most initial difficulties are due to communication issues, so having a translator on hand will solve a lot of problems and make your transition smoother.
t first, Shanghai can feel overwhelming. Uprooting and travelling over multiple time zones is a strain on the constitution. To have to then navigate a gigantic, crowded and confusing city in a foreign language is altogether exhausting. If you can, take adequate time to adjust and get your bearings. Take the necessary precautions to stay healthy and rested during the first few weeks in Shanghai. Besides eating well and becoming accustomed to a new sleeping pattern, make an effort to exercise and socialise with other expats. These measures will accelerate the adjustment to your new environment, alleviate stress and prevent the feeling of isolation that often accompanies the initial period in a new city and country. Keep in mind that as time passes things will become more familiar and things that seem impossible now will morph into routine. There are exciting things to do and see in Shanghai, but first it is important to take care of the necessities and learn the ropes. This section is designed to provide resources and orientation for new arrivals, laying the foundation for exploring and getting to know Shanghai as a new resident.
44 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
First Things First
First Things First Register with the Police
E
very foreigner arriving in China must immediately register with the local police. If you are staying in a hotel, they will take care of this for you. Otherwise, simply go to the nearest police station in your neighbourhood, present your passport, along with a photocopy of both your identification and visa pages, and report where you are staying and for how long. Once registered, you receive a form, which is your temporary residence permit. Hold on to this, as you will need it when applying for a longer-term residence permit. If you move into a housing compound, ask if your landlord will take care of this for foreign tenants. Always re-register whenever you change residence in Shanghai. Late registration results in a nominal fine. Failure to register at all could lead to major bureaucratic hassles.
If you suddenly realise that you have forgotten to register with the police, don’t delay - go to the appropriate police station and act deferential - you may be surprised at the result.
Prepare an Emergency Plan
B
efore an emergency occurs, work out a plan of action with your family. This includes mapping out the nearest 24-hour medical facility and registering your family there (you don’t want to have to worry about paperwork in the event of an emergency). Prepare an emergency folder listing all of your family’s medical conditions, allergies, medications and surgical histories. Make cards for your children to carry with them that list your home address and the address of your preferred hospital in both English and Chinese.
45 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Around Arrival
M
ost international flights arrive at shiny new Pudong International Airport (PVG), located 30 km (18 miles) outside the city proper. A taxi to downtown Shanghai will cost about RMB 180 and take 45-60 minutes. Ignore the touts: they will charge you three times the rate. Alternatively, the lightning-fast German-engineered Maglev train connects the airport with Longyang Lu Metro Station in Pudong. The 21 km (12 mile) journey only takes seven minutes, but on arrival you are still a 30-minute taxi or Metro ride from downtown Shanghai – and this is inconvenient with heavy luggage. Maglev tickets cost RMB 50. See www.shairport.com for more information.
Getting Around
It is possible to get lost in Shanghai, particularly in the French Concession where streets often don’t conform to understandable patterns or in the suburbs where landmarks are difficult to find and commercialism has created a feeling of sameness.
Orientation
F
or the first few weeks – even months – it’s a good idea to carry a street and Metro map around. Shanghai is not a grid, and the sporadic maze of alleys, streets, boulevards and freeways is difficult to navigate, even for the city’s seasoned veterans. Morning and evening rush-hour traffic is
46 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Around Getting Around
characterised by dense, aggressive traffic and frequent gridlock.
Despite the massive size of greater Shanghai, most of the central areas are grouped together and manageable in size. Once inside a neighbourhood, getting around on foot is relatively easy. Central Shanghai is surrounded by one principal ring road, Zhongshan Lu, which links Puxi to Pudong via the Nanpu Bridge. The city is bisected by Yan’an Lu, an elevated freeway lit at night by red and blue neon. The elevated freeway dividing the city up and down is Gonghe Xin Lu / Chongqing Nan Lu. The most important ground level streets are Huaihai Lu and Nanjing Lu, which are both major shopping streets. Fuxing Lu, which is parallel to these, cuts through the heart of Puxi and leads into the Fuxing Tunnel that runs under the Huangpu River into the financial district of Lujiazui in Pudong. All street signs are written in both Chinese and pinyin (phonetically romanised Chinese). The range of street numbers on each block is also posted on the street signs.
Taxis
T
axis are generally a cheap and efficient way to get around Shanghai, traffic permitting. There are approximately 45,000 taxis in operation in the city, belonging to seven privately owned companies. It’s easy to flag one down on most busy streets – unless it’s raining, in which case be prepared to wait for the weather to clear, or head to the nearest Metro stop. Most of the drivers are native Shanghainese and know the city well, although being as specific as possible with directions will speed up your journey and make it cheaper. Taxi fares start at RMB 12 for the first two kilometres, RMB 2.4 for each additional kilometre. Tipping is not expected, but welcomed nonetheless. Cash or stored valued cards (see jiaotong ka, next page) are accepted as payment. Most drivers speak limited or no English, so you should be able to show them your destination in Chinese. The driver will supply you with a receipt (fapiao), which shows the taxi number and the
REALITY CHECK Taking a taxi in Shanghai can be an adventure. Like Forrest Gump said, “You never know what you’re gonna get” and the more you ride the more you will see. Shanghai Taxi drivers work very long hours and consequently have been known to nod off at the wheel. Others smell of revelry recently completed and some firmly believe they are racing a Formula One car. In any case, cherish the good drivers you find and remember that the back seats of Shanghai taxis have no seat belts.
47 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Around company telephone number – very useful information if you leave something in the cab. If you have a mobile phone, you can take advantage of the Guanxi SMS service to access bilingual addresses. Type in the name of the hotel, restaurant or bar and text it to 1066 9588 2929; moments later you will receive a message with an address. Press C for addresses in Chinese and wait a few moments for a reply with the address written in Chinese characters that you can show to your cab driver.
Metro
T
If you plan to take the bus in the summer in Shanghai, look for a small snowflake near the bus number. This means the bus is air conditioned.
his is the fastest way to travel across the city. Trains are almost always on time and at busy stations in the central areas arrive every three to five minutes. This is generally a nice way to travel. The trains are clean, quiet and safe. Tickets cost RMB 3-7, or alternatively you can purchase a stored value card (jiaotong ka) from one of the booths. They are valid for the Metro, buses and taxis and can be purchased at any Metro station for RMB 100, with an RMB 30 deposit refundable when the card is returned. If you buy a single journey ticket at one of the automated machines, hold on to it. You need it to pass through the exit gate. As opposed to buses, signs and maps are clear and in English, making the train system easy to navigate. On the down side, crowds are almost unbearable during the daily rush hours of 7.30-10 am and 5-7.30 pm. There are currently 10 Metro lines – Lines 1 and 2 are the longest and most popular. The city is constructing additional Metro lines and stops at a furious pace, with the goal that 75% of Shanghai residents will be living within 600 metres of a stop by 2010. Opened on January 1, 2004, the Shanghai Maglev is the first commercial maglev in the world and offers a very fast and convenient way to travel between Pudong International Airport and Pudong. The 30 km distance is covered in 7 minutes and 20 seconds, reaching a maximum speed of 268 mph.
Buses
T
here are well over 1,000 bus routes, taking you to every corner of Shanghai, operated by a variety of private companies. The rides are cheap. Direct journeys, which can be purchased in cash from the driver, cost about RMB 2. However, prepare to hit a major language and navigation barrier. Unlike in the Metro, maps are not easy to read and do not provide an English translation. The buses are often crowded and struggle through
48 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Around Getting Around
traffic during rush hour. Chinese speakers can contact the Shanghai Urban Transportation Bureau (6317 6355) for route and time information. On the whole, this is not a recommended mode of transportation for a newcomer.
Walking
W
alking is a great way to get around central neighbourhoods in Puxi. The sidewalks in the former French Concession districts of Xuhui and Luwan, the old city area of Yu Yuan, and the area around People’s Square are particularly good places for walking, with restaurants, shops and housing all situated next to one another. Sidewalks are wide and wellmaintained, making for pleasant strolls that will give you a chance to take in the rich and dynamic urban environment. Take great care when crossing the street, however, as turning vehicles rarely respect stoplights when they make right turns, and Chinese drivers almost never respect the rights of pedestrians. During rush hour, cyclists and scooters will use sidewalks to bypass gridlocked intersections. Use underpasses and crosswalks, being sure to be aware of traffic marshals, as they occasionally ticket jaywalkers.
Walking tours of Shanghai are available from various organisations. These tours are an excellent way to discover some of the roads less travelled.
49 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Around Driving
I
f you have a valid driving licence in your home country, you can apply for a licence in China. Before doing so, experience riding in a car for a few weeks. This will allow you to become somewhat familiar with directions and major roads, as well as get your bearings and find a feel for the flow of traffic. The mix of bicycles, motor scooters and pedestrians makes driving considerably different than in most Western countries.
REALITY CHECK Driving a car in Shanghai can be dangerous for the non-initiated. Local drivers will often overtake other cars in the oncoming lane – even in heavy traffic – and cutting off other drivers is the generally accepted norm.
When driving in Shanghai it is extremely important to be aware that pedestrians and other cars do not follow a ‘right of way’ rule as in most Western countries. You can expect to see pedestrians walk out into traffic without looking with an apparent disregard for their own safety. Other vehicles will also merge into traffic and force other drivers to brake hard in order to avoid collisions. The best advice is to focus on what is ahead of you at all times. Do not get distracted as it could mean a serious accident. To get a driving licence, you will need to prepare the following certificates: • • • • •
Passport Health certificate Shanghai Residence Card Original residence permit in China plus one copy Foreign driving licence or international licence
The process is then as follows: 1. Go to the Ministry of Automobiles, 1101 Zhongshan Bei Yi Lu (6516 8168 ext 54787) where you will be given two application forms which must be filled out in Chinese. 2. With the completed chopped applications and RMB 150, you must obtain a health examination test at the Expatriate Department of any hospital above district level. 3. The original driving licence must be translated. This can be done at the Shanghai International Studies University, Dalian Xi Lu, Mr Lu Wei Guang (6587 7585).
The maze of freeways and flyovers in Shanghai can be confusing. (Right)
4. Along with all the certificates and documents mentioned above, bring a digital photo and take the written test at the Ministry of Automobiles. The test is multiple choice and is in English. The licence may be picked up one week later. The test is given on Monday and Thursday 8.30-11am and 1.30-3.30pm.
50 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Money and Banking Currency
The RMB 100 note is the most common note in circulation. Large sums of money are bundled in stacks of 100. Plan to take a bag if withdrawing a lot of cash. Though crime is low in Shanghai by most standards, street crime does exist. The equivalent of a few thousand USD will not fit into your wallet or pocket.
C
hinese currency is known as the renminbi or ‘people’s currency’. A unit of renminbi (RMB) is known as a yuan (kuai in the spoken form). One yuan is made up of 10 jiao (mao in the spoken form), which are subsequently broken down into 10 fen. Paper notes are available only for yuan and come in denominations of 100, 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1 – although 1-yuan coins are much more popular than notes. Until 2005, the yuan was pegged to the US dollar; however, protest from the US and other G7 finance ministers persuaded the Chinese government to peg the yuan to several world currencies. The yuan is a relatively stable currency and the exchange rate has hovered around RMB 7 to the dollar for the past few years.
Money and Banking
Counterfeits
E
xpect to have your money inspected by vendors using various types of UV lights which in some cases have been installed in the light fixtures of taxi cabs. When the UV light is not available, most vendors will visually inspect RMB 100 and 50 notes and will refuse to accept them if they feel they are not legitimate tender. While it is uncertain what percentage of the currency in Shanghai is counterfeit, the scale of the efforts by the retail and service industries suggests that it does exist.
Banks
T
here are several branches of each of the Chinese domestic banks in almost every district of Shanghai, all of which allow foreigners to open either yuan or US dollar accounts. The most common are Bank of China, ICBC, China Merchant’s Bank, Agricultural Bank of China and China Construction Bank. They all offer debit cards, Internet banking and currency exchange services. Many expats choose banks with an international focus, such as Bank of China and ICBC, which both accept the transfer of money to and from your home country. For credit card services and access to funds back home, it is best to keep an international bank account. Banks are generally open from 9am-5pm Monday to Friday, and Saturday mornings. Expect long lines at banks. If you want to spend less than 30 minutes for any visit, take a spot near the door before it opens and make a run for the ticket terminal to collect your number. There will be others – particularly on Mondays when weekend earnings are deposited.
52 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Money and Banking
Some banks harbour illicit money changers. Reports suggest that they are benign in nature, though engaging in business could logically be seen as risky. Provided you have a work visa you can exchange the equivalent of USD 500 per day at most banks. You may, however, have to order less comnmon currencies ahead of time.
ATMs
D
omestic bank ATMs can be found in most of their local branches as well as in many shopping malls in the city centre. Conveniently, ICBC and China Construction Bank ATMs accept debit and credit cards within the Cirrus/MasterCard and VISA/Plus systems. For your card to work in Shanghai, be sure to notify your bank back home that you are in China. Expect empty cash machines near the end of the weekend. With the seemingly endless supply of ATMs, however, you will never be far away from your money.
Exchanging Money
A
s long as you can show a copy of your passport, cash and travellers’ cheques can be exchanged at most hotels, major banks, Pudong International Airport and the post office. Do not exchange money at independent money exchanges, as there are a lot of counterfeit notes in circulation. Rates are generally consistent, but hotels occasionally charge a commission. To get the best rate, simply take money out of ATMs compatible with your credit or debit card and pay a small commission to your bank.
Using Your Credit Card
M
asterCard, Visa, American Express, Diner’s Club and JCB cards are accepted in most of Shanghai’s hotels, high-end restaurants and bars and big retail shops. Smaller shops, markets and restaurants often accept only cash.
It is believed that China was one of three areas of the ancient world which concurrently invented the coin. Though historical accounts vary, experts place the year at somewhere between 600 and 900 BC.
Tipping
T
he growing number of tourists and expats in Shanghai over the past few years has led to a greater acceptance of the practice of tipping, but it is by no means expected. Telling a friendly cab driver to keep the change or offering your hairdresser a 10% tip is perfectly normal. If you think your waiter has done an exceptional job and deserves a bit extra, discreetly slip him or her an RMB 10 or 20 note. Otherwise, they may be obliged to hand it over to the boss.
53 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Connected
S
hanghai has a sound
Getting telecomm unications infrastructure. Telephone Connected lines are reliable and
international dialing is simple to arrange. However, since Shanghai Telecom has a monopoly, prices for calls will probably be more expensive than at home. You can save money by using the Shanghai Telecom Yitong stored value card to make international calls. You can purchase Yitong cards at the post office and most convenience stores. On the whole, however, it is much cheaper to make international calls with your computer, using an Internet calling service such as Skype. To call internationally using Shanghai Telecom, dial 00 + country code + city code + number.
Mobile Phones
T
he mobile phone market in Shanghai is thriving. It seems that almost everybody from ages 8 to 80 has a mobile phone. They buzz, sing and ring constantly wherever you are in the city – a testament to a clear, functioning network and affordable pay-as-you-go calls. Most mobile phones that are supported by GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) work throughout China, and you might find that Chinese SIM cards will work in your phone. American/European Blackberries work fine in China. However, if you are moving to Shanghai, it is far more affordable to pick up a local plan as soon as you move here. China Mobile, the nation’s biggest telecommunication service provider, usually recognises two dual frequencies – 900 Hz and 1,800 Hz. Network coverage across China is excellent. If you didn’t bring a compatible phone, a pay-as-you-go mobile phone can be purchased for RMB 600-700 plus the cost of a SIM card. Calling and text-messaging other mobile phones is cheap. You can find RMB 100 stored value cards for mobile phones in most convenience stores. The instructions for loading the stored value onto your phone are available in English.
Internet
R
outers are readily available for about RMB 200-300 for a basic home model. The most popular is the TP-Link brand. Call China Telecom (10000) and arrange for them to set up a wireless connection in your home. In the meantime, the number of places throughout the city that offer free Wi-Fi is growing exponentially. It’s nearly a sure thing in cafés in Puxi and Pudong, but be sure to ask before paying RMB 30 for a coffee. The 2010 World Expo is accelerating the installation of public Wi-Fi zones. The
54 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Connected Chinese government blocks certain sites that are deemed inappropriate, including the popular sites Facebook and YouTube. Major newspapers and email servers are left alone.
Post & Courier Services
C
hina Post post offices (www.shpost.com. cn) are found throughout Shanghai. They are open six days a week and services vary depending on the size of the branch. Smaller centres only handle posting letters, selling stamps and paying bills, while larger branches change money and handle international express mail and Western Union. Most postal workers do not speak English. Airmail letters and postcards normally take two to three days to domestic cities, about 10 days to Europe and two weeks to North America. If you need to send a package overseas, bring the contents unwrapped to the post office, as postal officers will want to assess their value, which cannot exceed RMB 1,500.
Media
B
ecoming familiar with local print media is a good way to get into the Shanghai groove. As the most international of China’s cities, Shanghai has a multitude of free English-language magazines and newspapers. Newspapers The locally produced Shanghai Daily (www.shanghaidaily.com) and Beijing-printed China Daily (www.chinadaily.com.cn) are the most read. The Chinese-language People’s Daily can be read in English at (http://english. peopledaily.com.cn). Take into account that newspaper editorial content is scrutinised by the government, necessitating self-censorship. Magazines The most popular magazines are City Weekend (www.cityweekend.com. cn) and That’s Shanghai (www.urbanatomy.com). City Weekend is a bi-weekly focusing on fashion and culture, listing Shanghai’s hottest events. That’s Shanghai is an excellent monthly that takes an in-depth literary view with analysis of culture and expat life in Shanghai. It is also a good resource for event listings. Other magazines include Shanghai Talk, Shanghai International Family and City Weekend Parents and Kids as well as a host of business periodicals.
The growing number of private mail carriers that provide a more reliable (albeit more expensive) service in Shanghai includes UPS (800 820 8388), DHL (800 810 8000), TNT (800 820 9868) and FedEx (800 988 1888).
55 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Connected Useful Websites
T
Locally produced print media in China is censored by the government. Information on current local news events can therefore be incomplete or slanted toward a specific opinion.
here are dozens of websites offering tips on living in Shanghai, restaurant and hotel reviews, social forums, up-to-date event listings and much more. It’s fun and informative to surf these websites; they’re a good way to keep your finger on the pulse of Shanghai life and meet other expats with similar problems or interests. New blogs pop up every day to attract expats seeking local and international news, opinionated reviews and interesting articles. These come and go quickly, but a casual search will turn up a variety of interesting websites. Some Shanghai websites appear at first to be honestly helpful, but then turn out to be shameless soft advertising from real-estate companies. These are easy to identify once you’ve given them more than a cursory glance, and they’re not worth reading (unless you’re looking to purchase property). Listed below are some useful websites. This list is by no means exhaustive, nor can it be, as new blogs and websites pop up all the time. Shanghai Life and Culture Websites www.enjoyshanghai.com Interactive expat forum with classifieds, restaurant and bar reviews, events, personals and travel tips. The classifieds section in this website is relatively well used and can be a useful alternative to purchasing all housing items new upon arrival. One can expect to find most popular items from Ikea for sale here at a good discount. This company also offers a discount book at a good value which can be purchased from the site and used for a variety of services in and around Shanghai ranging from golf to shopping, eating and travel. www.shanghaiexpat.com Expat-run website with classifieds, restaurant and bar reviews, events, personals and travel tips, as well as interesting articles about life in China and Shanghai. This is the most popular expat website in Shanghai, mostly due to its forums, which are well travelled by resident foreigners and those doing research before arrival. Post questions you may have about virtually any issue and expect responses from regular visitors to the site. www.smartshanghai.com Articles on cultural events, restaurant and bar reviews, personals and miscellaneous columns. If you want to get informed about the party and clubbing scene in Shanghai this is the place to go. The demographics of its users are generally younger but this can also be a useful resource for restaurant reviews for those seeking the hip new places to dine.
56 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Connected
www.shanghaiist.com This site has articles about international politics and culture, along with job and housing listings. This is an interesting site for those looking for informal news and information about Shanghai and China delivered with some wit. www.shanghaidiaries.com American journalist/blogger Dan Washburn provides hundreds of stories and thousands of photos from Shanghai and the rest of China. Washburn is a veteran writer based in Shanghai who has been featured in numerous Western and Chinese magazines and websites. www.shanghai.talkmagazine.cn The web extension of the popular oversized city magazine, Shanghai Talk contains articles, events info, blogs and other information useful for both residents and those new to Shanghai. http://shanghai.asiaxpat.com Asia expat is a multi-city website that is known for good jobs and property listings. www.cityweekend.com.cn This is Shanghai’s most comprehensive restaurant, bar and event listings. www.urbanatomy.com urbanatomy.com has excellent articles on local travel and culture, as well as reviews and classifieds. City Information www.shanghai.gov.cn This is an English-language government website with facts, figures, helplines and administrative data. www.exploreshanghai.com exploreshanghai.com is a comprehensive ‘Metropedia’ site with detailed maps and schedules for each of Shanghai’s Metro stops.
REALITY CHECK The ‘Great Firewall Of China’ limits many types of online media including Facebook, Twitter and occasionally Google and Wikipedia. If these types of sites are important to you, consider investing in a subscription to a Virtual Private Network (VPN) or proxy server. These services will guarantee unfettered and fast access to all the sites you want.
http://shanghai.cultural-china.com This site has info on local events, transport and the 2010 Shanghai World Expo.
57 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health Care Getting Over Jet Lag
I
Emergency Ambulance 120 SOS Alarm Centre 6295 0099 (emergency) ParkwayHealth and Dental Clinics 24-Hour healthline: 6445 5999 Shanghai United Family Hospital and Clinic 2216 3900 Shanghai Children’s Medical Center 5873 2020 Shanghai East International Medical Center (SEIMC) 5879 9999 (24 hours)
f you travel to Shanghai over several time zones from a Western country, you are almost certain to experience jet lag. Jet lag is a condition where the body clock is out of sync with the destination time, as it experiences daylight and darkness contrary to its normal routines. To the degree that the body cannot immediately adjust to the new rhythms, it is jet lagged. Everyone’s adjustment period is different and time will inevitably cure it. However, it can be uncomfortable and a serious annoyance, considering that you are busy getting settled and trying to adjust to a completely new environment. Symptoms can include digestive problems, headaches, fatigue, irregular sleep patterns, temporary insomnia and irritability.
Healthcare
The speed at which the body adjusts to the new schedule depends on the individual; some people may require several days to adjust to a new time zone, while others experience little disruption. Global Doctors International does not recommend pharmaceutical remedies such as melatonin, which have not been proven to work. Instead, they advise, force yourself into the new sleeping rhythm right away by fighting through the urge to nap in the afternoon, and avoid excessive alcohol consumption. Exercise in the morning and evening will induce relaxing sleep and kick your body clock into gear faster.
Drinking Water
O
nly drink bottled water in Shanghai. According to government sources, water testing has registered bacteria and high metal content. Infrastructure projects are underway to purify tap water and render it drinkable by 2010, but be safe by sticking to bottled water, which is available everywhere and inexpensive. Restaurants and bars normally use purified ice cubes in drinks, but don’t hesitate to ask anyway. Many expats brush their teeth in tap water, but to be on the safe side, you may want to use bottled water for this when you first arrive.
Food
I
n a vast country with varying standards of sanitation and enforcement, Shanghai is known throughout China for serving the cleanest food. Most restaurants and supermarkets, especially those that cater to expats, look and
58 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health Care feel sanitary. The longer you are in Shanghai, the more adventurous you can be with eating out. Local inspectors increasingly visit popular restaurants to ensure they are up to standard. Nonetheless, you may have minor digestion problems during the first few weeks. This is normally no cause for alarm, as the body has to adjust to foreign bacteria. The diarrhoea is usually mild and resolves spontaneously and symptoms can usually be controlled with over-the-counter medication. With moderate symptoms, Pepto-Bismol alone may suffice. Alternatively, antidiarrhoeal agents such as diphenoxylate and atropine (Lomotil) or loperamide (Imodium) can be administered. Avoid taking antibiotics unless the problem is severe and persistent.
Shanghai Huashan Hospital 6248 9999
G
Shanghai Huadong Hospital 6248 3180 ext 3106
Shanghai also offers a world-class range of traditional Chinese medical treatments (TCM) that offer an interesting alternative to Western medicine. Whilst your regular doctor may treat these treatments with disdain, many Westerners swear by their effectiveness. One of the most popular and ubiquitous services on offer is massage. Traditional Chinese massage clinics are everywhere and vary greatly in price and quality. Some will have staff that are professionally trained while others will not. Many of these clinics will offer TCM services such as cupping and aroma therapy as well as grooming of hands and feet.
Shanghai No. 1 People’s Hospital International Medical Center, Ruijin Hospital Appointments 6306 9485 Outpatients, emergencies 6437 0045 ext 668101 24-hour house calls 6324 0090 ext 668202
Health care enerally health care in Shanghai is good and facilities continue to improve. Most expats use one of the Western-oriented facilities. Consult with your doctor at home and your insurance company, as well as with friends and colleagues, in order to determine which facility best serves your family’s needs. Each expatriate community has its own services available locally. The range of these services is generally proportionate to the size of the community.
In the event of a medical emergency… If it is safe to move the injured or sick person, it is usually best to find the fastest way to the hospital on your own, by private car or by taxi. For this reason, carry a card with the name and address of your hospital of choice in both English and Chinese. Ambulance times are slow because Shanghai traffic does not yield to emergency vehicles. An ambulance will merely take you to the nearest hospital, not to the hospital of your choice. To call an ambulance, dial 120. Don’t count on the operator speaking English. It is advisable to learn a few key phrases, particularly your own address and the name of your hospital. Another option is to call United Family Hospital which has 24-hour ER and acute inpatient care, at 2216 3999.
Public Security Bureau 6357 6666 (Division for Aliens)
59 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health Care Healthcare Pharmacies
M
ost kinds of medicine can be purchased over the counter in Shanghai, including many that would require a prescription in the West. Nonetheless, bring a prescription from your GP for antibiotics or more serious drugs. Chinese pharmacists may suggest Chinese medicine for your ailment. This is certainly worth a try and will not hurt you, particularly if the medication is herbal. There are pharmacies throughout the city, and many are open 24 hours. Do not count on English being spoken; prepare a Chinese translation of the chemical or pharmaceutical you need. Western hospitals have their own pharmacies that carry a much wider selection of Western medicine, but they normally require a doctor’s visit.
Pollution in Shanghai can aggravate respiratory problems. If you or your family members have pre-exisiting respiratory problems, consider purchasing an indoor air filter. High-quality models are available from a number of providers which focus on the foreigner market.
Health Preparations
T
he following are recommendations from the American Consulate General Shanghai’s Health Unit on how to better prepare for a stay in China.
Ensure that all preexisting medical or dental problems are attended to prior to arrival. Bring copies of medical and immunisation records. If taking routine medication, bring an adequate supply, as many Western medications are not available locally. If applicable, bring an extra pair of glasses or contact lenses and a copy of the prescription. Similarly, prescription medication you need should be brought with you, as not all medication can be found in Shanghai. The law requires import certificates to accompany any medication that you send into the country (via a shipment, for example), although local health professionals say that it is rare for a customs officer to ask for them. Medication that you carry with you does not fall into this category, but you should carry a copy of the prescription to be safe. Study health insurance plans carefully. Ensure that the insurance covers overseas travel. Medicare, for example, does not cover health costs for US citizens who are travelling or living outside the US. It’s important to know who will pay the expenses if an emergency medical evacuation from China becomes necessary. It is not uncommon for an emergency medical evacuation to Europe or the United States to cost a private citizen as much as USD 40,000-80,000 if a special plane has to be used. All visitors should get all recommended immunisations prior to coming to Shanghai. There is a limited supply of imported vaccines available at the health care facilities that cater to expatriates, and availability is inconsistent. Before travel, contact a family doctor or one of the travel medicine centres to be found in most major cities and inquire about the needed vaccines. Do this at least four weeks prior to travel so that the vaccinations have time to take effect.
60 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health Care Healthcare
Health Insurance
T
here are choices and it’s best to do some research and make arrangements before you arrive in Shanghai. On one end, you can plan on seeking treatment at local hospitals. These can be very inexpensive and will be paid out of your pocket. Expat doctors say that while local hospital care is adequate for certain health issues, it might not provide the standard of care you would expect in a Western medical establishment. Conditions vary, as does the standard of English spoken by doctors and administrators. On the other end, you have deluxe expat worldwide insurance coverage for you and your family. They pay the rate charged at expat hospitals for Western-style medical coverage, and can provide maternity, dental and outpatient services for you and your family. This is the most desirable option for most expats. When you relocate here as part of a corporate package, you should get a clear statement of what is included in your medical coverage. Follow up by consulting your doctor, particularly if you need specialised care and research supplementary options. Rates vary dramatically based on your personal situation and the type of insurance you need. For free quotes, you can go through an insurance broker such as International Medical Group (www.imglobal.com) or Expatriate Insurance (www.expatriateinsurance.com). Dental insurance policies are also available, often as an add-on to medical insurance policies, but they can be very expensive. Check carefully what the policy covers, particularly with regard to routine work such as examinations, X-rays and dental hygiene services.
Health Certificate
I
n order to get a Residence Permit, all foreigners must apply for a Health Certificate at a government-appointed health check centre. Shanghai International Travel Healthcare Center is 1701 Hami Lu. Office hours for physical examination and verification for foreigners are Monday to Friday, 8.30-11am, 1-4pm (6268 7606). The physical examination includes a general check-up, blood pressure and pulse reading, height and weight measurements, ICG, chest X-ray and AIDS and syphilis tests. It usually takes seven working days to process the Health Certificate.
REALITY CHECK Surgeons in China see a lot of patients. Due to the sheer number of people in China, they are exposed to a wide variety of conditions and have the opportunity to hone their skills in an environment unavailable to most Western doctors.
The required documents are: 1) Your passport and four recent passport photos 2) Health Certificate Application Form 3) Copy of your employer’s Business Registration Certificate
61 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health Care Hospital and Clinic Listings: CanAm International Medical Center Shanghai 966 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Shaanxi Nan Lu Tel: 5403 9133 Fax: 5403 8978 Global Health Care Room 302, Kerry Center, 1515 Nanjing Xi Lu Tel: 5298 6339 Fax: 5298 6993 Mobile: 136 8188 8833
Local hospitals can be very busy. If you need to visit one, prepare to wait for an extended period of time.
Huashan Worldwide Medical Center (HWMC) 12 Wulumuqi Zhong Lu Room 1001, 10/F, D Block Tel: 6248 3986 Fax: 6249 8476 New Century Plaza 48 Xingyi Lu, Hongqiao Tel: 6279 3263 New Pioneer International Medical Center 2/F, Geru Building 910 Hengshan Lu, Xuhui District Tel: 6469 3898 Fax: 6469 3897 ParkwayHealth Hongqiao Medical Center Medical and Dental Services 2258 Hongqiao Lu (near Hongqiao Marriott Hotel) Tel: 6445 5999 ParkwayHealth Jinqiao Medical and Dental Center 51 Hongfeng Lu, Jinqiao, Pudong Tel: 6445 5999 ParkwayHealth Mandarine City Medical Center Suite 30, 788 Hongxu Lu Tel: 6445 5999 ParkwayHealth Shanghai Centre Medical & Dental Centers 203-4 West Retail Plaza, 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu Tel: 6445 5999
62 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health Care ParkwayHealth Specialty & Inpatient Center 170 Danshui Lu, 2-3/F (near the corner of Danshui Lu and Xinye Lu, near Xintiandi) Shanghai Chenxin Hospital 9-18/F, Chenxin Hospital Tel: 6225 3456 Fax: 6211 4451 ParkwayHealth Tomorrow Square International Medical & Surgical Center 389 Nanjing Xi Lu Level 4 Tomorrow Square (same building as the JW Marriott Hotel) Shanghai East International Medical Center (SEIMC) 551 Pudong Nan Lu Tel: 5879 9999 ext 2663 Fax: 6887 1189 Shanghai First People's Hospital International Medical Care Center 585 Jiulong Lu Tel: 5324 3852 Shanghai Racquet Club Ground Floor Clubhouse Lane 555 Jinfeng Lu, Huacao Town, Minhang District Tel: 2201 0995 (appointments)
If you plan to travel during your stay in Shanghai ensure that your health insurance covers travel health insurance as well.
Shanghai Spinal & Sports Clinic Level 9, Chenxin Hospital 937 Yan’an Xi Lu Tel: 5213 0008 Shanghai United Family Hospital 1139 Xianxia Lu, Changning District Tel: 2216 3900 (appointments) Tel: 5133 1999 (emergency) Sino United Health Room 601, Shanghai Centre 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu Tel: 6279 8920 SOS International Hospital Unit E-G, 22/F Suntong Infoport Plaza 55 Huaihai Xi Lu Tel: 5298 9538 (appointments) Fax: 5298 9539 (appointments) Tel: 6295 0099 (emergency) Fax: 5298 9096 (emergency)
63 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Temporary Accommodation
S
hanghai has a vast range of options for temporary accommodation. There’s no shortage of hotels, hotel apartments, guesthouses and motels to choose from if you need somewhere to rest your head while waiting to move into more permanent living quarters. It’s advisable to spend some time in Shanghai before committing to a lease. Neighbourhoods vary a great deal and where you decide to live will inevitably dictate your lifestyle. Explore a few residential areas before you decide where to settle down.
Temporary Accommodation
The number of boutique hotels in Shanghai has increased in recent years. These hotels can offer a unique experience you won’t find at conventional chains.
The iconic J.W. Marriott Hotel offers some of the best views in Shanghai.
Hotels
E
very year, the city sets a new record for international and domestic visitors. The hotel industry has been keeping up with, and perhaps even outpacing, boomtown Shanghai’s dramatic growth in travel and tourism. There are hundreds of hotels in Shanghai and several of the five-star options are city landmarks. All the major global brands are well represented, with many of them already in their second or third incarnation. Most seem to be catering to the business traveller in terms of service and price. Their luxurious hotels offer spacious rooms, broadband Internet access, pools and recreation centres, 24-hour concierge services and club lounges. You can generally trust five-star ratings to match international standards, however, check out your hotel on independent websites such as www.tripadvisor.com or www. expedia.com before forking over hundreds of dollars for an opulent night’s sleep. Staying in one of the central boutique or high-rise hotels can be a great experience and a terrific introduction to the city, as many offer spectacular views and/or central locations that serve as bases to explore the vibrant central neighbourhoods. Shanghai used to lack quality
64 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Temporary Accommodation mid-range options, but popular chains such as Holiday Inn and Motel 168 have popped up throughout the city. Check out websites such as Travelocity or Expedia to read recent reviews and get a good deal. Hotel Listings: Howard Johnson Plaza 595 Juijiang Lu 3313 4888 www.hojoshanghai.com Opened in 2005. As a member of Howard Johnson Hotels & Resorts, Howard Johnson Plaza has a fantastic location near People’s Square and the Bund. Facilities include a Balinese spa and an indoor glass-roofed swimming pool. Radisson Shanghai New World 88 Nanjing Xi Lu 6359 9999 www.radisson.com/shanghaicn_newworld The Radisson Hotel Shanghai New World is the largest Radisson-branded hotel in China. The hotel is on Nanjing Road, adjacent to People’s Square. This hotel is over the top, with a large indoor pool and a revolving restaurant on the 45th floor. Its prices are lower than the other five-star options, making it good value.
The weekend buffets offered at Shanghai’s fivestar hotels are a favorite amongst the expat community. They aren’t cheap, but the food is excellent.
Portman Ritz-Carlton 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu 6279 8888 www.ritzcarlton.com The Portman Ritz-Carlton opened in 1988, making it a member of the older generation of the city’s big brand hotels. It’s still one of the best. Besides the 598 elegant rooms decorated with Italian marble and expensive woods, it offers a nice spa and gym. It forms part of the Shanghai Center, a major shopping and dining hub. Pudong Shangri-La 33 Fucheng Lu, Lujiazui 6882 8888 www.shangri-la.com This is one of the largest hotels in Shanghai, with over a thousand rooms. It’s an all-glass architectural feat, and many of the rooms have striking views of the Bund across the river. The hotel also has the two largest ballrooms in the city.
65 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Temporary Accommodation Westin Hotel Bund Center, 88 Henan Zhong Lu 6335 1888 www.westin.com/shanghai Part of the Bund Center office complex, with its iconic lotus-flower roof, this hotel frequently hosts conferences and delegations. The restaurant is not to be missed, especially the Opera Sunday Brunch.
The iconic lotus flower atop the Westin in Shanghai Le Royal Meridien 789 Nanjing Dong Lu 3318 9999 www.starwoodhotels.com This iconic building looks like a Transformer, and at night the antennae flash robotically. It’s very close to the Bund and guestrooms are stocked with numerous fun gadgets. It also houses 10 restaurants and bars, a gym and an indoor pool.
The Grand Hyatt (Jinmao Tower) and the World Financial Center
Grand Hyatt Shanghai 88 Shiji Dadao, Lujiazui 5049 1234 www.shanghai.hyatt.com The Hyatt atrium is 33 storeys, a fascinating and dizzying vertical tunnel. The hotel occupies floors 53-87 of the Jinmao Tower, making for breathtaking views of the city. Book in advance, as there’s an exceptionally high occupancy rate.
66 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Temporary Accommodation Crowne Plaza Hotel Shanghai 400 Panyu Lu 6280 8888 www.shanghai.crowneplaza.com The Crowne Plaza Shanghai is well located on the edge of the former French Concession, near a diverse array of shops and restaurants. It’s less flashy than the towering giants in Pudong, but comfortable nonetheless. It has extensive sports facilities and a good bar.
With literally thousands of choices, you will definitely find the accommodation that is right for you.
Ruijin Guest House 118 Ruijin Er Lu 6472 5222 www.shedi.net.cn/OUTEDI/Ruijin This historic guesthouse was once the Morris Estate, home of a 1920s media mogul. Since then, it has hosted the likes of Richard Nixon and Zhou Enlai. The five villas that make up the hotel are set in beautiful woodland in the middle of the former French Concession. Donghu Hotel 70 Donghu Lu 6415 8158 www.donghuhotel.com The Donghu is the former home of the notorious tycoon – read, gangster – Du Yuesheng, and it’s very stylish indeed. The lovely garden houses several colonialstyle villas. The location next to Huaihai Lu is great for exploring the enchanting back streets of the former French Concession. City Hotel 5-7 Shaanxi Nan Lu 6255 1133 www.cityhotelshanghai.com The joint venture City Hotel almost matches the facilities but definitely lacks the polish of its brand-name competitors. Larger executive rooms, on the 21st through 23rd floors, have double closets, and more modern furniture and fixtures. The comprehensive City Club fitness centre includes a full spa, and there’s an indoor playroom for kids.
68 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Temporary Accommodation Holiday Inn Express Throughout Shanghai www.holidayinn.com.cn To accommodate the growing demand for quality mid-range hotels, several Holiday Inn Express hotels have popped up around Shanghai. They offer comfortable rooms, all the necessary amenities and convenient locations. Check the website for details on each of the hotels. Motel 168 and Motel 268 Throughout Shanghai 6316 8168 www.motel168.com Not classic ‘motoring hotels’, but worth consideration for being clean, simple and cheap. Originally, the price was RMB 168 per room, or RMB 268 for rooms with a higher standard. Over the past few years, however, prices and standards have risen. Expect to pay RMB 300-400, still definitely decent value for a mid-range hotel in Shanghai. You can find a Motel 168 or 268 in most parts of Shanghai.
Hotel Apartments
T
his is a good option if you plan to take your time finding suitable housing to rent or buy as it’s difficult to negotiate a short-term lease in Shanghai. Lease agents are encouraged by landlords to sign minimum one-year leases. Expat-oriented, short-term apartments are either specialised apartment blocks or form part of a hotel. They normally come fully furnished with kitchens and access to extensive facilities. They are available daily, weekly, monthly and even yearly. The longer the stay in a hotel apartment, the better the rate. For longer-term stays, they’re more comfortable and better value than hotels. Another option is to browse the housing sections of www.smartshanghai.com or www.shanghaiexpat.com to see if anyone is letting their apartment short-term while they’re out of the country. For a comprehensive list of options, visit www.shanghaihotelweb.com. 41 Hengshan Road - www.41hengshan.com Changning Equatorial Serviced Apartments - www.equatiorial-cesa.com Shanghai Centre - www.shanghaicentre.com Park Avenue International - www.parkavenueintl.com Tomorrow Square Marriott Executive Apartments - www.marriott.com Union Square Marriott Executive Apartments - www.marriott.com Regalia Serviced Apartments - www.regalia.com.cn Inn Shanghai - www.innshanghai.com
69 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Finding Housing
Investigate the surroundings of your potential apartment or villa. There is much construction going on in Shanghai and the noise from these sites can be a real disturbance.
70
C
hoose your housing carefully. In a city this big, and this sprawling, where you live will dictate your lifestyle. The best way to get a feel for Shanghai's varied residential worlds before signing a lease is to explore the different neighbourhoods. While you’re at it, give potential daily journeys to work or school a trial run. Collect information and perspectives by speaking to property agents that specialise in expatriate housing while asking colleagues and friends about the advantages and disadvantages of their areas.
Finding Housing
Finding appropriate housing in Shanghai can be frustrating, as there are pros and cons to every option. The converted lane house in the former French Concession may be close to the action, but it may also be noisy and prone to running out of hot water. Conversely, the expansive suburban villa may leave you and your family feeling isolated from city life. Many expats with school-age children choose to reside in suburban zones, such as Hongqiao or Jinqiao, in order to be close to the international schools. Younger foreigners tend to prefer vibrant downtown areas near dining and nightlife such as the former French Concession or Jing’an District. However, for the price of a one- or two-bedroom in the former French Concession you could rent a large villa in the outer areas of the city, where homes are usually located in large self-sufficient gated communities. There are costs and benefits to every option, and it’s very important to do the legwork and research to find a home that suits the needs of you and your family. Think
It is possible to find the right mix of urban and peaceful in Shanghai.
70 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Finding Housing everything through – from your commute to your proximity to a nice bakery – before making a decision. Factors to consider carefully include: Space How much space do you and your family need? Some of the expat villas in the outer areas of Shanghai are extremely spacious, while living in the city centre could mean adapting to a more cramped lifestyle than you’re accustomed to back home. Commute How long does it take to get to work and school? The importance of this cannot be overstated. Long commutes in Shanghai traffic are time-killers, not to mention mentally and physically exhausting. Don’t attempt to estimate a commute time by studying a map; there are too many variables to calculate. The real thing depends on traffic at the time of the commute, access to a motorway and ongoing or upcoming construction projects. Living near a Metro station is a definite time-saver if your job is near one too. The only way to truly know your commute is to do a few test runs.
House in Shanghai’s former French Concession
Children Are you near the school your children will attend? Are there other families with children of the same age in your neighbourhood? Are there safe play areas and green spaces? Neighbourhood Conveniences Does the area have supermarkets selling the kind of food or other household items you need? It’s also nice to have a few restaurants, agreeable cafés and bars, as well as sports facilities, nearby. Safety Although violent crime is not really an issue anywhere in Shanghai, traffic is. If you have children, you may want to consider living away from a busy thoroughfare.
71 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Finding Housing Lease Agreements
L If you are considering purchasing property in Shanghai be aware that regulations and procedures will be very different from in your home country. Seeking professional advice will ensure that your investment is a good one.
Right - A typical mid-range Shanghai apartment
ease agreements are typically made for one year (shorter leases are available for serviced apartments) but longer leases often lower the rent. A security deposit of two months’ rent is generally expected upon signing. Rent is generally paid in RMB, in cash, and does not usually include utilities. If you use an agent, expect to pay a commission upon signing the lease. Assess the demeanour of your landlord carefully and be sure to ask about any decoration modifications you would like to make before you sign the contract. Some landlords have been known to be very generous.
Types of Housing
S
hanghai has a full range of housing, from local-style apartments to mansion-sized luxurious villa communities. Most expats live in one of these five housing types : Apartments One of the most noticeable aspects of Shanghai’s booming economy is the surge in new apartment construction. Chinese people based overseas, locals and long-term expats have bought them up, subsequently letting them to foreigners with housing allowances. These apartments tend to be located in spacious high rises and look and feel new. They are normally sold ‘raw’ to the buyer, who then designs and adds fixtures according to taste and target renter. Therefore, if you like a particular development or area, view different units within the same building. Some developments offer their own housekeeping and concierge service, and possibly fitness facilities. Villas Far from Shanghai’s city centre, villas are normally grouped together in luxury living complexes that appear to be replicas of compound housing in the US or Europe. Fully furnished and equipped with a community centre, supermarket, children’s facilities, a health club and restaurant, villa compounds are virtually self-sufficient entities. They are normally located in family-orientated locations near large parks and international schools.
72 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Finding Housing Duplexes New and located in housing compounds, duplexes are two- or threelevel apartments equipped with modern facilities. Some duplexes will occupy the first to third or fourth to sixth floors of a six-floor building. They usually total around 200 to 300 square metres and cost at least RMB 12,000 per month. Old Houses / Garden Houses Both foreigners and wealthy Chinese built scores of elegant homes during Shanghai’s heyday in the early part of the twentieth century. These charming standalone houses have terraces and adjacent green space – a real rarity in Shanghai. These features, coupled with locations in the prestigious former British and French Concessions, make these homes highly sought after by foreigners. Rents reflect this demand, pushing upwards of RMB 50,000 per month.
Kitchens are often long and narrow in downtown apartments.
Most residences in Shanghai popular with foreigners are well equipped to meet Western standards. Be aware that not all are well equipped for the chilly winter months.
Roof top tennis in Shanghai
73 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Finding Housing
Lane houses in Shanghai are being razed to the ground at an alarming rate. The real estate that these houses occupy makes them a prime target for developers who have the money to buy out residents.
Lane Houses In old Shanghai, local communities were built in a series of alleyways off major streets. These charming houses stand two-to-three storeys high and form long rows. From the outside, they look like townhouses or brownstones, but the interiors vary. Some contain several families, whilst others host one family and a terrace. Closely packed neighbourhoods and thin walls make lane houses noisy at times. On the other hand, it’s a great way to observe Shanghai life and interact with your neighbours. Rents start at about RMB 18,000 for a 100 square metre home.
Photo by Richard Restell
Search Tools
A
good way to get an idea of current listing prices is to browse the real estate sections of www.enjoyshanghai.com or www.shanghaiexpat.com. However, if you’re already in Shanghai when you start looking, it’s much easier to hire one of the seemingly thousands of real estate agents to do the legwork for you. They typically charge 30%-100% of your first month’s rent as commission. Make sure that this arrangement is agreed on before you sign anything or begin accepting their assistance. If you are looking for apartments in the downtown area, take a walk through your preferred district and make note of the complexes that fit your location and amenity requirements. Providing your agency with a list of preferences will make your propery search more efficient. Dozens of relocation and property agent companies advertise on popular expat websites, newspapers and magazines. Most are reputable and have English-speaking staff to asist you.
74 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Finding Housing
Xintiandi shot
Shanghai lane house life is an experience unto itself and highly prized by some foreigners. Renovated lanehouses can be very expensive to rent but offer something of Shanghai’s past you won’t find in a contemporary home.
Shanghai’s remaining lane houses are now nestled between larger developments.
PHOTO BY RICHARD RESTELL
75 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Finding Housing
The Villas of Huacao, Gaojing Lu, Jinqiao and Kangqiao are expansive and expensive compared to many other properties in Shanghai. They offer a good option for families because of their proximity to international schools.
76 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Finding Housing
Though some villas are modestly furnished, some are equipped on a scale to rival many luxury homes around the world. If luxury is what you want, prepare to pay for it.
A nicely appointed villa on Gaojing Lu in Shanghai
77 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Finding Housing
The Villas of the Greenworld Development in Nanxiang are close to essential foreign amenities such as shopping (Carrefour) and education (The British International School).
Greenworld Villas in Nanxiang
78 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Finding Housing
Villa Compound clubhouses are centres of social and community life in most developments.
Above and left The clubhouses at Emerald Villas in Pudong
79 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Settled Furnishing Your Home
M
The quality of domestic help in Shanghai varies significantly. Be aware that your standards for cleaning may be completely foreign to your ayi. Community Center Shanghai offers courses to train your ayi to Western standards.
ost Shanghai rentals come furnished with beds, tables, couches, kitchen appliances, TVs and telephones. They are usually equipped with washing machines, however dryers and dishwashers are less common. Landlords who rent to expats try to maintain a foreign-friendly, current style of décor. If it’s not furnished, or you find the furnishings distasteful, negotiate with the landlord for a furniture allowance. They may be willing to skim off a month or so of rent in exchange for you adding new furnishings. If you do wish to refurnish your apartment or add additional pieces, markets such as the South Bund Fabric market in Huangpu or the Qingfeng market in Putuo offer a wide selection, as well as tailors and furniture makers willing to create a piece to your liking. This is a fun way to furnish your home and prices are negotiable. There are also multistory warehouse stores located near the Gateway Shopping Centre Xujiahui Metro stop with a boundless selection of domestic and imported furniture. If all else fails, there is an Ikea across from Shanghai Sports Stadium.
Getting Settled
Laundry
S
hanghai apartments come with washing machines, but dryers are rare. Most Shanghainese hang their clothes outdoors on bamboo metal poles that jut from their windows. Most appliance stores sell dryers. Small laundrettes and dry cleaners are sprinkled throughout most neighbourhoods.
Domestic Help
I
t’s common for expats and Shanghainese alike to employ full-time or parttime local maids, known as ayis. An ayi (which translates to ‘auntie’) is a Chinese woman who can clean the house, cook, buy groceries, look after children and run other assorted errands. At first, the idea of always having someone in your house can seem strange. A downside is that most ayis don't speak any English. Although the lack of English can be challenging at first, it’s a good way to learn some Chinese – children invariably pick up the language quickly from their ayi. Ayis are generally paid RMB 10-18 an hour, about USD 100-125 per month, with some expatriates paying double that, plus a Chinese New Year bonus. Some expat families living in large villas with several children, or who work long hours, hire more than one ayi. It’s extremely important that you make clear to your ayi exactly what needs to be done in the household and how you'd like it done. Your ayi will appreciate this and it will ideally serve
80 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Settled as the foundation of a long and successful working relationship. Show her the household basics, such as working the washing machine and how to prepare your children’s favourite meals. It’s helpful to have someone who speaks Chinese translate instructions and scheduling for you. This does not need to be a formal contract, just a way to establish expectations. Learning some Chinese phrases will make the relationship more productive and congenial. Even if she has worked in a foreign household before and is familiar with your appliances, she will not know how your family likes things done. The best way to find a reliable ayi is through friends, neighbours or coworkers. If you’re seeking part-time help, start with your neighbours, as it’s convenient for an ayi to help out at adjacent residences. Announcement boards in Western stores and community clubhouses also advertise ayis. If this approach isn’t working out, go through a domestic help service. Domestic help agencies provide household staff trained to cook Western food, speak some English and care for infants. Try the City Weekend classifieds at www. cityweekend.com.cn/shanghai/classifieds.
Babysitting and Childcare
S
ome expat families rely on part-time or live-in ayis (see above) for babysitting and after-school care. Ayis – many with children of their own – can provide safe and low-cost child supervision. If you rely on this, clearly communicate your child’s needs to the ayi and prepare a detailed emergency plan. Despite its size and hectic, urban appearance, Shanghai is a kid-friendly place with active parents’ groups, play centres and accessible childcare resources. Many expat housing complexes have playgroups which help each other out with babysitting.
Domestic help agencies American-Sino Research and Human Resources Consulting www.aseap.com Yash Professional Family Care Service www.yashnet.com LEALU Household Services www.lealu.com Shanghai Enjoy Housekeeping www.enjoylife-sh. com Shanghai GNI Housekeeping www.chinagni.com Ayi Service www.ayiservice. com
It is common for people to dry their clothes in the street in Shanghai.
81 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Culture Shock
REALITY CHECK Depending on where you are in Shanghai you will find yourself being observed by the locals to varying degrees. Many Westerners would regard this as staring and thus rude, but in fact it is most likely just honest curiosity.
C
ulture shock is the inability to understand and react to what’s going on around you. For example, the first time you go to the post office or wait in line for a Metro ticket, several people may cut in front of you, perhaps rudely nudging you out of the way in the process. At home, you could simply say “Excuse me” and expect the violator of common etiquette to move aside and wait their turn. However, when it happens in China (and it most certainly will) you may feel totally unable to control the situation. This feeling of helplessness is common and to be expected. Helplessness easily turns into frustration and stress. The way people react to stress varies. Some feel depressed and isolated, some become irritable and some react with cultural chauvinism – giving the impression that the way they do things back home is the best way, and locals are just not clever enough to figure it out. Depending on your own awareness of culture shock, as well as the amount of support you receive, it can last anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. Experts say that almost everyone experiences culture shock in stages.
Culture Shock
STAGE 1 What a wonderful world! In this initial stage, Shanghai can do no wrong. It’s thrilling to see China up close. Interactions with the locals are seen as small victories, the food is wonderful – even if you can barely identify it – and each excursion is an adventure into a new land to be laboriously retold to friends and family back home. STAGE 2 What in the world am I doing here? After a while, the euphoria of new travel fades. Your brain begins to notice patterns in your routines and the feeling of being an outsider sets in. It gets tiring to walk in crowds, get shoved in lines and dodge taxis who lay on their horn as if it was your fault for being on the pedestrian crossing. Trying to learn basic Chinese is too difficult and seems pointless. In this stage, you may find yourself spending a lot of time on the phone or Internet complaining about Shanghai, perhaps daydreaming of being back home. STAGE 3 Shanghai is my new home. The day will come when you meet new friends who’ve been here less time than you. It’s somehow a pleasure to offer them pointers. You know some Chinese – enough to order food, direct a taxi driver and greet your neighbours. There are social events to attend and a trip to the post office is no longer so daunting an obstacle. When someone attempts
82 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Culture Shock Culture Shock
to nudge you out of the way, you can confidently say “duibuqi”! In this stage, when you’re on the phone with your friends at home, you’re telling them to come and visit you.
Get a Grip
S
o what should you do to keep culture shock under control? There are measures you can take to mitigate the negative aspects.
1) Get to know your immediate locale. You may be in a foreign city, but being familiar with a few neighbourhood restaurants, markets and green areas will at least allow you to feel that you have control over your immediate domain. 2) Start a journal. This is an invaluable tool. A journal will force you to reflect on your own feelings and consequently get you thinking about ways to control them. It will also be a priceless experience to read it a year later when you’re an old hand in Shanghai. 3) Sign up for a Chinese class. Knowing even a few phrases right away makes a big difference when speaking to your ayi or the neighborhood shopkeeper. It’s also a good way to meet other expats. 4) Gain a new perspective. After all, you’re in an entirely new place. Try to be an explorer and see things existentially, learning from a way of life embraced by over 1 billion people. Keep in mind that when Chinese people visit your country, they experience culture shock as well.
REALITY CHECK Most foreigners report that the more they learn about China, the more comfortable they feel. If you take the time to learn more, you will be rewarded.
Etiquette
U
nderstanding some basic norms for etiquette in China is a good way to offset feelings of culture shock and it will also help you understand the people and their culture better. Here is a brief list of table manners:
- Chopsticks are sacred in China – never point them at anyone, suck them, wave them around, stab them into a bowl of rice and leave them there or play the drums on the table with them - The host should always ensure that the guests drinks are full - Smoking is customary at the table in China, so don’t be offended when locals light up at your table or the next - Spitting bones onto the table next to your plate is also customary - Never put your fingers in your mouth
83 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Education
84 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education
EDUCATION IN
SHANGHAI CHOOSING A SCHOOL
O
ne of the biggest concerns of parents when they learn that they will be relocating overseas is how their children will adjust and be educated. “Will they be happy? Will they be safe? Will they be able to reintegrate when they return home?� These are all questions that parents ask themselves before departure.
What they learn upon arrival in Shanghai is that the city has a wide array of educational choices available including world class schools like the British International School, Shanghai. Parents are quickly comforted with the knowledge that their children will be safe, happy and well educated.
85 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education
THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education
Primary and Secondary Schooling
S
hanghai’s primary and secondary school community boasts programmes with increasingly elaborate facilities and varied academic offerings. For expat families that want an education using a standard international curriculum, Shanghai offers a diverse range of international schools offering International Baccalaureate (IB) programmes. In recent years, these IB programmes have gained popularity with secondary schools thanks to their global appeal and recognition from top universities worldwide. Some of the international schools have a waiting list, but space is growing. However, admissions recommend applying by early March, as most schools begin
The quality of international schools in Shanghai is amongst the highest in the world. You can rest assured that your child will receive an excellent education.
finalising their rosters at that time. Contact admissions directly to find out if there is space in the specific years of your children. Most schools do not require an entrance exam, though an assessment may be required for students with less advanced English skills. Otherwise, parents and students simply fill out an application form and provide previous school records, medical records, standardised test scores and sometimes a letter of recommendation.
87 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Tips for Choosing a School
P
arents who have been through the process before say that finding the right school for your child starts with asking the right questions. In Shanghai, expat families have a variety of schools from which to choose. The choices range from prestigious international schools, to international divisions within local schools, to local schools themselves. No two schools are the same, including the ones with multiple campuses. Institutions can vary in terms of curriculum, facilities, size, cost, location, activities, philosophy and sometimes even in teacher experience. International schools in Shanghai are focal points for community life. A strong sense of community will help your child and family adjust better to life in China.
The British International School Before you pick up a single brochure, contact an admissions officer or set foot on a campus, prepare to request answers to these three key questions: 1) What is the student to teacher ratio, and what certifications do teachers have? 2) How will this school prepare my child for university? and 3) Does this school provide an environment in which my child will thrive? 1) What is the student to teacher ratio, and what certifications do teachers have? Research throughout the world has consistently indicated that good teachers are the key element of children’s developmental and academic success. Furthermore, quality teachers are able to thrive when the student to teacher ratio is low. Smaller class sizes permit teachers to attend to the needs of each individual student and be innovative in presenting course material and facilitating learning. Be sure to ask admissions officers about teachers’
88 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education qualifications and school class sizes. Follow up by visiting a few classrooms and feeling the atmosphere. 2) How will this school prepare my child for university? If your child is in secondary school, then knowing which country your child wants to head to after graduation will help determine which curriculum is best suited for them. American universities are familiar with the British curriculum and vice versa. The IB programme is recognised worldwide. Students who plan to study in the UK or Asia (other than mainland China) are best served by preparing for and taking IGCSE exams in Year 11. Likewise, though Canadian and Australian students have a bit more flexibility, most parents prefer to educate their children in the British curriculum. The British International School Shanghai offers IB options (either the more intensive diploma programme or the certificate programme) for years 12 and 13. Of course, an IB diploma is portable and both American- and British-system schools offer the IB programme. 3) Does this school provide an environment in which my child will thrive? Ultimately, selecting a school comes down to personal taste. It’s tempting to try to generalise, but the fact is a large student body does not automatically mean a school is impersonal. Likewise, a small student body does not automatically mean a school lacks in course or activity options. If you can, visit the school and get a sense of the atmosphere. Read school marketing materials critically to determine their emphasis. Most importantly, talk to other parents. Ask what they like about the school and what they would change. Make the most of your school visit by paying attention to the tone of classrooms as well as general areas, noting interactions between students and teachers and among students themselves.
REALITY CHECK Though this guide was produced by the British International School, you can rest assured that our advice regarding education is impartial and accurate.
Here are some additional questions that parents report are helpful when gauging a school: • What is the annual turnover rate of teachers? • What percentage of teachers are certified to teach in their home country? • What IB classes are available? Which are the most popular? • What foreign languages are available and are students required to study Chinese? • Where do graduates go to university? • What extracurricular activities are available? • What community service opportunities are available?
89 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Universities and Higher Education
S
hanghai is the home of a number of China’s most famous universities, including Fudan, a humanities-oriented institution, and Jiaotong, which is renowned for engineering. For locals, the university admissions process is extremely stressful and based solely on nationwide examination results. Foreigners, however, are exempt from these exams. All one has to do to enroll in a Chinese university is fill out a simple application form, submit school records and other documentation, undergo a physical examination and show proof of language proficiency. The majority of expat students choose to study in the US or Europe, but more and more are choosing to study in a Chinese university for a year or more before transferring.
Be aware that many foreign universities operating in Shanghai will charge nonresident fees for their programmes, making them more expensive than if you were at home.
Many international universities have satellite campuses in the Shanghai area, particularly with Master of Business Administration (MBA) and Executive Master of Business Administration (EMBA) programmes. The University of Maryland, Washington University, Rutgers Business School and USC Marshall have all established high-ranking Shanghai EMBA programmes. The University of Nottingham’s Ningbo campus offers a range of accredited programmes. The Institute of Fashion (IFA Paris) has recently opened a branch in Shanghai with French-trained instructors. Jiaotong University’s International Continuing Education Classes can give you the opportunity to dabble in subjects including painting and graphic design.
Shanghai Jiaotong University
90 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education
Language Courses
W
hether your life or work requires you to interact with non-Englishspeaking Chinese people or not, learning some Mandarin can make living in Shanghai an easier, more enjoyable experience. Although English is commonly spoken in the city centre and in the proximity of expat communities, exploring many parts of the city, shopping and communicating with taxi drivers requires at least basic knowledge of Mandarin. If you are keen to learn there are two options. One is to enroll at a university, where the larger and cheaper classes generally focus on reading and writing Chinese characters. The other is to take classes at one of the many language schools, which offer full-time and part-time courses. Classes tend to be smaller and most schools also offer private tutors. Though they are more expensive, language schools tend to be more flexible when it comes to students’ language levels and schedules. Another difference is that language schools often avoid Chinese characters in the introductory levels, choosing instead to teach oral Mandarin using the pinyin system (Chinese written in the Roman alphabet). Oral learning is easier and faster. Therefore, for those in need of some survival Chinese, this is probably the best option.
It is important to note that learning Chinese is difficult if you are only attending class a few hours each week. If you are serious about learning the language then attend class at least three times a week and seize the opportunity to practice with your colleagues or ayi whenever possible.
91 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education The British International School
T
he British International School offers the English National Curriculum as well as the International Baccalaureate Diploma and Certificate programmes in years 12 and 13. It is the only school in which teacher recruitment (70% of the teaching staff is brought in from the UK), curriculum planning, programme development and parent relations are all managed by experienced British Principals. These advantages are immediately obvious to parents. The British International School is part of Nord Anglia Education - a world leader in delivering education excellence.
British International School students follow the same academic programme as their counterparts in the UK and students report a smooth transition, making this school an easy choice for British parents. Canadian, European and Australian parents are attracted to the parity in curricula, while many Asian parents appreciate the system of academic accountability and overall rigour of the British system, evidenced by the school’s excellent IGCSE results. For the 2007-2008 academic year, approximately 45% of Year 10 and 11 students were awarded A grades. This is exceptional considering that English is the second language of many students. All students in Years 12 and 13 participate in the IB programme, which provides them with a first-class preparation for higher education.
Leading Principal Dr Terry Creissen OBE becomes involved in the learning process. In addition to The British International School’s evident commitment to academic excellence, the school is remarkably student-centred. State-of-the-art facilities on each campus offer competitive sports, fine arts and a variety of extracurricular activities, which are designed to match the demands of the student body. Admission to any of the three British International School campuses in Pudong, Puxi or Nanxiang is non-selective and waiting lists are normally not a problem. For more information, visit www.bisshanghai.com.
92 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
the british international school
Shanghai, China
helping others to be the best they can be
E
ducation and learning has always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be. CONTACT admissions@bisshanghai.com TO ARRANGE A VISIT TO OUR SCHOOL OR TO ORDER OUR PROSPECTUS
C hoosing the Right School P
arents often ask me what to look for in a new school. Helping parents to select a public school in the British independent education sector was an important part of my role as a Preparatory School Head in the UK.
Parents needed to choose from a dizzying array of single sex and co-educational options, from the highly academic Winchester College to a high-quality all-rounder like Millfield School.
By Kevin Foyle, Principal
94
THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SHANGHAI, PUXI
THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
95 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
O
On the international circuit it’s also a complex and potentially difficult process, but at least in most cases you don’t have to decide between single sex and co-educational (boys and girls together), as most international
schools are the latter. The decisionmaking process is further simplified if you’re looking for a particular national curriculum or national system of education. In Shanghai, as in most parts of the globe, the British and
96 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Education Supplement Supplement
YOU SHOULD OF COURSE try to gather as much information as you can, both directly from schools and from independent sources (such as websites like www.shanghaiexpat. com). Personal recommendations are best of all. Most schools will be happy to put you in touch with current parents from your home country to give you an insider’s view of the school and its performance. But be aware that the hard data available to you may be misleading. Mark Twain was, I believe, correct in stating that we should be wary of “lies, damned lies and statistics”. Schools will always wish to portray themselves in the most favourable light and will make sure that any statistics they publish support this.
American systems are most prevalent, but many other systems are represented, as well as international options like the International Baccalaureate.
Hard data from education authorities and governments should also be treated with care. For example, in the UK all state schools and secondary independent (fee-paying schools) are listed each year in school league tables published in national newspapers. Each year the top ten is dominated by highly selective, and therefore highly academic, schools. Having taught for eight years at Winchester College, arguably the most academic school in the UK’s independent sector, I can vouch for the outstanding levels of academic performance at such schools. What is not measured by such tables, which are based solely on pupils’ exam results, is the value added by the school. What was the starting
97 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
level of the pupils, and how does that compare with their final results? Many argue that this is a far better measure of a pupil’s progress, and indeed a school’s success. Furthermore, these tables do not seek to measure a school’s all-round contribution to a child’s education, which is best seen in the atmosphere around the school, the general behaviour of the pupils and the variety of activities they enjoy. It is often (and I believe rightly) said that the pupils are the best testimony to a school’s success, which makes visiting a school and meeting them an important part of the process. A SCHOOL’S FACILITIES can also be used to seduce prospective parents, and can be very influential in the decision-making process. However, it does not necessarily follow that a school with outstanding facilities is of high overall quality. Facilities are of course important, and most good international schools boast excellent extracurricular facilities, such as a swimming pool, theatre, sports hall and playing fields. Most schools these days also have significant ICT infrastructure in terms of suites or laptops and interactive white boards. A word of caution is once again in order. Are these facilities used well? Do they support high quality teaching and learning? I strongly suggest you ask to see examples of student work in order to examine the sort of progress being made by pupils and supported by the facilities.
The staff create the right environment, and are role models with a hugely important role in inspiring and developing children in many different ways. There are other considerations apart from the school itself, such as the proximity of expat housing and facilities, and travel time from home and work. These issues cannot be ignored, but usually there is no shortage of high quality housing stock in the vicinity of the school. The single most important factor, I suggest, should be the quality of the people involved in the organisation. Over the years, when potential parents have put me on the spot and asked me to tell them why they should choose my school, my answer has always been staff, staff and, in the final analysis, staff. To be successful, a school has to have high quality professionals across the age range and the subject areas, dedicated to the task of bringing out the best in
98 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
the children in their care. The best staff do not focus purely on exam results, despite their obvious importance. They also concern themselves with their pupils’ all-round development. Most successful people are able to communicate and interact successfully with others. Interpersonal skills such as polite conversation, good behaviour and social graces and understanding and appreciating other people and cultures are therefore all-important attributes. The staff create the right environment, and are role models with a hugely important role in inspiring and developing children in many different ways. Good staff cater for each child’s individual needs and understand how best to motivate and support the children in their care, thus bringing out the best in them. A GREAT DEAL CAN BE LEARNED about a school through careful research and analysis of data, but to make an informed choice a visit is vital. Your reaction to what you see, hear and feel when you visit should determine your
99 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
100 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
final decision. You will be introduced to lots of people, hopefully including the principal or the heads of school. Ask lots of questions, and make sure you get full and convincing answers on issues that are important to you and your family. During your visit, also ask yourself some questions. Would you be happy to entrust your children’s education and wellbeing to the people you meet? What is the atmosphere like? Is it purposeful? Are pupils and staff respectful of each other and communicating well? Are the pupils happy? Would you be pleased if your children conducted themselves in the same fashion? Ultimately it will come down to your gut reaction. Does the school feel right to you? And, if your children are mature enough to be involved in the decision, does it feel right to them? If the answer to these questions is yes, and the school provides the right curriculum in your language of choice, you have probably found the right school. However, if there are a number of things you immediately take against or that conflict with your own core values, then I strongly advise you to keep looking. CHOOSING THE RIGHT SCHOOL is not an exact science, but with a little background work, some searching questions and a thorough visit, you can look forward to enjoying a happy and productive partnership with your children’s new school.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Principal Kevin Foyle has fifteen years of ex-
perience in school leadership. He studied History, Physical Education and Sports Science at Loughborough and briefly earned a living as a professional cricketer. He began his teaching career at Winchester College, one of the UK’s leading independent schools where he taught history and politics before taking on the job of Headmaster of Norman Court Preparatory School IAPS in 1995. After twelve very happy and successful years, the draw a new challenge on the international circuit resulted in his appointment as the founding Principal at The British International School Shanghai, Nanxiang Campus in 2007. Inspired by the wonderful fusion of Eastern and Western approaches to learning found in Shanghai, at the beginning of 2009 he moved to take up the position of Principal at the British International School Shanghai. He is married to Gill and they have four children, two presently at BISS Puxi. In his spare time sports, reading and exploring the city, especially the beautiful French Concession, are his main interests.
101 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
Education Supplement
TEACHERS AND
TECHNOLOGY By Stuart White, Head of Secondary THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SHANGHAI, PUXI
Y
ou don’t have to spend too long browsing through the science fiction shelves of your local bookshop to realise that teachers are past their sell-by date and can be readily replaced by direct memory implants / computer terminals / memory pills / genetic engineering (delete as applicable – or insert your own best guess as to the technology of the future). If novelists are to be believed, we are an endangered species, about to go the same way as VHS video, film cameras and books. Although – come to think of it – books are still with us, so perhaps not all tried and trusted learning methods are for the axe just yet! It is true that the future may yet hold many twists and turns. The well-known socialist historian Eric Hobsbawn once said that “the only sure thing about the future is that it will surprise even those who have looked furthest into it” and I am sure he was right. It is also true that technology has appeared in today’s classroom in all sorts of ways and our children are better educated because of it. Is technology, however, a replacement for the teacher, or is there still a role for him or her?
103 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
T
The answer is – as all good answers are – not quite straightforward. Classrooms without teachers have proved elusive and ineffective so far, but the role of the teacher has undoubtedly changed greatly in the single generation that separates the classroom experiences of today’s children and their parents. I remember sitting in a lecture just over a decade ago, listening to Lord Puttnam speak about his views on technology and education and I recall his observation that our Victorian forbears – at least those who postdated the great 1870 Forster Education Act in the UK that paved the way to universal education – would recognise the classroom that their great-great-grandchildren occupied. Blackboards, chalk and slates had largely given way to whiteboards, coloured marker pens and lined pa-
per, but the essence of the teaching process was relatively unchanged in practice. But that was a little over ten years ago, reflecting education at the end of the second millennium and – to coin a phrase – what a difference a decade makes! The sage referred to earlier is gone. Teachers no longer have to know everything. Our students have access to information in ways that we could only have dreamed about (or read in those science fiction books) when we were their age. They have access to more or less every piece of information recorded throughout human history just by using Google. What’s more, there is simply a lot more ‘stuff ’ to know about. Students don’t need their teacher to be an encyclopaedia any more and the ‘sage on the stage’ has become the ‘guide on the side’. Once one accepts the role of teacher as guide, the processes of modern education become clear. Students must be presented with progressively more difficult problems and challenges and encouraged and helped to understand and solve them. The array of technology at their disposal is formidable, and the teacher can and must help them to make effective use of it. All our classrooms have computers, electronic whiteboards, Internet access and all sorts of other technology on demand. Freed from the need to focus on recall and
104 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
routine calculation, students spend more time on higher order thinking skills – analysis, creativity and evaluation replace facts and figures. But higher order skills require thinking – intelligence – and this is where the computer has to step to one side and where the teacher comes into his or her own. Many years ago I studied Artificial Intelligence as part of my undergraduate degree and it is a subject I have maintained an interest in ever since. As a field of research it has
come a long way from the early days, but intelligence and computing have remained steadfastly separate. The (probably apocryphal) story of the US government experimenting with an electronic computer designed to translate English into Russian illustrates the difficulties. The programmers allegedly fed it with the words “The spirit is willing but the flesh is weak”, whereupon the machine responded with a sentence in Russian which said, according to an expert linguist, “The vodka is agreeable but the meat has gone bad.”
105 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
106 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
C
Computers are good at remembering, but bad at thinking. They can perform millions of calculations flawlessly each second, but they are not good at working out which calculations needed doing in the first place. They free students of the constraints of having to focus on low-level memory skills and allow them to spend time learning to be thinkers. In the less than two decades since the arrival of the World Wide Web, given to the world by a British physicist in 1991, information has become so widely available that the nature of teaching has been profoundly and irrevocably altered. The modern teacher is the perfect counterpoint to the computer. We are bad at remembering, but we can analyse and imagine and we can help our students to learn how to harness the technology at their fingertips to achieve things beyond any Victorian dreams. Louis Armstrong expressed it perfectly: “I watch them grow / They’ll learn much more than I’ll ever know / And I think to myself / What a wonderful world.”
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Stuart White has enjoyed working in a variety of schools over the last twenty years. He studied Engineering at Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge and worked briefly as a telecommunications research engineer for GEC’s central research labs in London, before training as a Physics teacher. He started his teaching career at Winchester College, one of the UK’s oldest and most prestigious independent schools, before moving on through a variety of positions including Head of Physics, Boarding Housemaster, Director of Studies and Deputy Head in well known independent schools in England. Working as Vice Principal and then Interim Principal at Aiglon College in Switzerland gave him a taste for the benefits that arise from living and working in an international community, and he took up the role as Head of Secondary at the British International School in Shanghai’s Puxi campus with enthusiasm – a feeling he still has as he steps into work each morning! He is married to Jane, also a highly experienced teacher, and has three children. When time allows he enjoys playing and watching most forms of sport, as well as playing the clarinet or just soaking up the Shanghai atmosphere and environment.
107 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
PERFECT IN
PRIMARY By Mike Embley, Executive Principal THE BRITISH SCHOOL OF BEIJING
F
irst day of school today, Mum! I’m scared, I don’t want you to leave me, I don’t want to stay in the classroom, will you come in with me, will you hold my hand, can you stay there, can you stay where I can see you… Sound familiar? Much of the focus of parents on choosing the right school for their child is on the future. Secondary school, university entrance, career choice and even beyond. These are of course vital. To a young child taking their first steps into the world outside the home, though, these concerns are perhaps somewhat less important than how friendly, welcoming and caring their teacher is. In terms of building a solid foundation for later life, both in terms of academic success and social confidence, the curriculum and practice in primary school is absolutely critical.
109 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
T
The Early Years and Foundation stage of the British National Curriculum has at its heart a set of principles enshrined in the statement “Every Child Matters”. To a parent this is self-evident; however, not every school takes this to heart. The aims of Every Child Matters are simple to enunciate. Give every child the support they need to be healthy and safe, enjoy and achieve, make a positive contribution and achieve economic wellbeing. It is very easy to suggest that endless homework for under 7s will help them to achieve, or that absolutely no structure and constant free play for under 9s will allow them to enjoy school. Conversely, it is easy to suggest that a playground en-
“Different curricula place a slightly different emphasis on various areas of a child’s developmental pathway.” vironment should be completely calm and that children should be discouraged from running and jumping, or testing themselves in a safe and supervised fashion on the climbing frame. The British Curriculum gives balance to the sometimes conflicting needs of a developing mind: freedom and structure, academic progress and free play, risk taking and safety, living in the moment and planning for the future. While these goals are easy to write in a list, their actual implementation in a school requires a careful focus and a dedicated and reflective team. The fact that a school has a gentle approach to its children does not mean it is any less academic. In fact, supporting young minds as they reach for new learning is key to their development. Different curricula place a slightly different emphasis on various areas of a child’s developmental pathway. Some emphasise more free expression and play and place less emphasis on structure. In fact, some go as far as to suggest that any structure is harmful for children. Others, on the other hand, place a high, or indeed one might say heavy, focus on academic subjects. At one extreme of the spectrum this might include a great deal of rote learning. And some schools suggest that they offer a balance of the two approaches.
110 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
The fundamental issue is, do they? The British Curriculum guarantees that this balance is built in and is rigorously held to, through an inspection regime and a thorough set of standards and documentation. This inbuilt balance, combined with dedicated, passionate and compassionate teachers, is the foundation of a child’s future. Every child does indeed matter.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Michael Embley has graduated first in his
class from the University of Leeds. He has led some of the most prestigious and successful international schools across the globe. He has worked in the UK, Taiwan, Venezuela, Norway and China. In addition, he has also worked with governments assisting them in curriculum design and implementation. A clear focus on the whole pupil, from academic achievement, sporting and musical success and, vitally, health and social well being of every student have been hallmarks of the schools he has led. As a father of four he is always aware that student really means “someone’s child” and is perhaps this fact, above all, that informs his approach to school leadership. He has a keen interest in music and is also a world class swordsman…but rarely finds the need to use this talent with his students!
111 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
112 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
MAKING AN EDUCATED CHOICE THE BRITISH AND AMERICAN CURRICULUM By Mike Embley, Executive Principal THE BRITISH SCHOOL OF BEIJING
A
ny comparison of the two systems must start with the statement that one is not comparing like with like. The US doesn’t have a single educational system in the sense that England does. American schools do, however, have a number of accreditation bodies, who ensure that they have certain standards and fundamentals in common. US schools are also much more free to respond to the requirements, or indeed demands, of the local population. This means that special interest groups can have at times a significant effect on teaching requirements and the curriculum in those schools. This might lead to certain subjects, such as Biology, having additional strictures on what can and cannot be taught in schools. Schools in England, on the other hand, follow a single standard National Curriculum.
113 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
T
Teachers in both systems have some degree of personal freedom to develop their own teaching style within the structure of the particular curriculum that they follow. The English National Curriculum specifies in some considerable detail the educational milestones that children should reach on a year-by-year basis as they progress through their school life. Children are regularly assessed in detail by teachers, who use a standardised set of criteria to assign levels to their progress. Nationally, standardised tests are also employed, which give a very strong indication of how well a child is doing compared to national standards. In the US the relatively recent introduction of the No Child Left Behind act has also introduced compulsory standardised testing in the majority of schools. The act was brought in to address America’s relatively poor performance compared to other
“It is arguably the case that the British system is slightly more advanced in terms of maths and literacy, but in truth the variation between students is higher than that between the two systems.” developed countries in terms of the academic standards of its students. International schools which follow the English National Curriculum use the same standardised testing regime and criteria as schools in England. This allows, for example, a British International School to compare and benchmark itself with the very best schools in the UK and to ensure that its standards are set at that level. Each child is assessed and set targets that are achievable for them. It’s important to note that schools are tasked with not only ensuring the progress of the very able, but also of those whose abilities are not at the top of the range. A student may not excel in national terms in all areas of the curriculum but it is important that the schools ensure that each student does as well as they can and is challenged to progress at a rate over and above that they might achieve at an ‘average’ school. These targets are sometimes referred to as Golden Tar-
114 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
gets and are often used as criteria for parents to judge the ‘value added’ by their school. ‘Value added’ refers to the progress that students in each school make over and above the average progress that a child would be expected to make and is an important element in school evaluation in the UK. In the US, students are compared using a variety of different standards throughout elementary school and high school. These vary from essentially IQ-based tests to tests which track progress through the curriculum based on tests of recall or understanding. The political landscape of the US is, of course, more varied than that of the UK, and this has inarguably had an effect on the way in which testing is viewed. International schools following a broadly US-based curriculum will generally choose one of the larger schools accreditation bodies. These are based in different regions of the US and have also broadened their responsibilities to include some overseas US schools. These bodies include WASC (Western Association of Schools and Colleges), NEASC (New England Association of Schools and Colleges) and SACS (Southern Association of Schools and Colleges), but there are others. They try to ensure that schools meet the AYP (Adequate Yearly Progress) targets specified in the NCLB act.
115 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
S
Schooling in the US generally begins at the age of around 5 or 6 years old. The initial focus in kindergarten is on play-based activities, with a transition to more formal structured learning occurring gradually as the child progresses through school. In many ways this is mirrored in the British system. Unlike in many areas of the US, however, a full system is in place for early years education. The Early Years/Foundation Stage (EYFS) curriculum is centred on developing all aspects of a very young child, both social and academic. It monitors and assesses key developmental milestones. Parental communication is heavily emphasised in the EYFS. Play is, of course, emphasised in the play-based learning sections of the curriculum, as are areas of continuous provision such as outdoor play, arts activities and books. Even before children can read it’s important to have books around so that they begin to develop habits which will lead to a lifelong love of learning.
Moving into primary school, the key difference might be seen to be one of approach. The core areas of teaching in fact vary little. It is arguably the case that the British system is slightly more advanced in terms of maths and literacy, but in truth the variation between students is higher than that between the two systems. There is also a somewhat wider focus in the British system, contrasted with a more ‘national’ focus in the US. However, again the variation between teachers is wider than that laid down in the curriculum, with some US teachers considering it their duty to promote a wider world view where they are allowed to do so. One key area, though, is that of ‘tradition’. Many British schools still have uniforms and an explicit emphasis on teaching good manners and social skills. Both systems, of course, aim to combat bullying and other obvious social ills, but in general it would be fair to say that many US schools from primary upwards are a little more free or informal than their British counterparts. Of course this is neither good nor bad. Many parents may consider the teaching of good manners rather old-fashioned, or school uniforms a restriction of children’s freedom of expression. The British headmaster would reply that uniforms make for a family atmosphere and feeling of community and reduce fashion pressure on both children and parents. There is no right answer to this issue, of course, and neither system can be said to be superior.
116 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
In secondary school (high school) the differences become more pronounced. Here by most standards the average British child is indeed one year more advanced in mathematics and language than their US counterpart (based on national average statistics). The differences in approach become even more pronounced, as schools across the US have a very different and more liberal approach than that of schools in the UK. General standards in any good school in either the US or the UK will not vary hugely. The UK primary and early years system has proven to be highly successful in nurturing young minds, but aspects of the US middle school system are also being developed strongly. Both systems feature a strong emphasis on ICT skills, but the UK system is perhaps a little more outward looking. The key difference will always be one of approach. A modern forward-looking system aiming to maintain some traditional values, or a highly varied state-by-state system looking to satisfy the needs of a very varied community while maintaining a liberal tradition; in the end, it’s up to parents and students to choose the one best suited to them.
117 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
118 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
WHAT IS STUDENT VOICE? By Mark Wilson, Head of Secondary THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SHANGHAI, PUDONG
“We’ve got a School Council” is a phrase often heard from schools when it comes to student voice. Having a School Council is a great thing and should be celebrated but it is not the complete answer to having student voice. The work of David Hargreaves and the Specialist Schools and Academies Trust in the UK highlights the importance of moving from a 19th-century view of schools toward one for the 21st century by personalising learning. Student voice is part of this image. The use of ICT aside, the classroom of today looks like it did in the 19th century. How many elements of our world would look so familiar to a 19th-century person? To move into the 21st century schools need to accept change and with change comes the importance of the voice of the student. For a 21st-century school to truly personalise its learning, it needs to engage with the views and ideas of its students. Essentially, every time students are encouraged to voice their opinions, you have an example of student voice.
119 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
A
A School Council is a good start, but all too often these Councils have an impact in changing some physical aspect of a school, or the food in the canteen. A School Council that is used to evaluate teaching and learning and to contribute to a better understanding of how students learn is a powerful tool for personalising learning.
Good teachers are always looking to receive feedback from their students. This can come in a number of forms, from asking them a simple question to giving them the opportunity to evaluate the quality of the lesson using clear criteria. Many teachers find the thought of having students assess their teaching a step too far. What they fail to grasp is that students have always evaluated teachers. They may not have been encouraged to write it down but they have always known who their good teachers were. Sharing what works and what does not with a teacher is the best way for both student and teacher to learn. The key to this is a culture of trust. Relationships between students and teachers which are based on trust involve a willingness to listen. Trust breeds trust and it can lead to a culture of mutual respect which is crucial for effective learning. This relationship has to build the trust slowly. Giving time to activities like asking students to discuss which charities they would like to raise money for can move towards students discussing their own learning styles and feeding back to teachers on what they find most effective. Asking students to help plan and organise parents evenings or help design the curriculum helps us create a school where children come first. Schools in the UK have students watching teachers teach and grading their teaching, as well as students sitting on the School Leadership Team.
120 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
19th-century Education • Schools are designed like factories • Roles are sharply designed and segregated • Student voice is weak • Educational aims are few, simple and uncontested • Change is a dangerous threat • Education is producer-led and teacher-focused 21st-century Education • Education services are designed to personalise learning • Roles are overlapping; teachers learn as well as teach • Student voice is strong • Education aims are many, complex and contested • Change is a risky opportunity • Education is user-led and learning- focused
Young people can be very creative, intuitive and, above all, passionate about their own learning. Failing to listen to their voice is being deaf to the very words that teachers are trying to teach. See Hargreaves `Personalising Learning’ Series from the Specialist Schools and Academies Trust for more information or simply contact Mark Wilson (m-wilson@ bisspudong.com) at the British International School, Shanghai to find out more.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Mark has been teaching for over 13 years,
during which time in addition to his teaching and learning work with students he has been involved in training teachers for the Royal Academy of Dance, Middlesex University and through various SCITT and GTP programmes. He Joined Pudong as Headteacher for the Secondary School in 2009 after being involved in leading various schools in the UK. Mark has worked for the Department of Education through the Innovations Unit and the National College for School Leadership on Leadership projects in addition to being nominated for Teacher of the Year in 2005. Mark is often asked to speak publically at educational conferences, past events including, Leading Edge Schools Conference, NEE 14-19 Diploma Conference, Exceptionality Conference and Staff training conferences and Local Authority training based around personalising learning, tracking students progress and using Drama skills across the curriculum.
121 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
122 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
IB
THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS By Andrew Joy, IB Coordinator THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SHANGHAI, PUXI
I
n a diverse and multicultural city like Shanghai, we are always very aware that every student at an international school has their own unique set of needs and aspirations. However, when it comes to selecting a post-16 course, I believe that there are two fundamental requirements which are common to everyone.
First, it is essential that we offer a course which results in qualifications which allow every student to progress to the next phase in their education or career. The International Baccalaureate Diploma is unique in that it offers a truly international qualification which is not tied to any particular national system, leading to recognition by universities from all over the world.
123 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
W
With over 775,000 students in 138 countries, the IB is expanding rapidly and is seen by many institutions as the best pre-university course around. A strong IB Diploma can let students gain admission to one of the best universities in the world.
Even more important, though, is that we help students to develop the skills, knowledge and attitudes that will lead to a successful life. We are very conscious that when students have completed their secondary schooling at The British International School, they must be ready to face the challenges of independent study at university or college, often living alone for the first time in their lives. Merely getting a student to a good university is not enough. The student needs to have the academic background and the study skills to enable them to thrive in that environment and then go on to build a successful career. In the International Baccalaureate Mission Statement, a stated aim is to offer programmes which “encourage students across the world to become active, compassionate and lifelong learners who understand that other people, with their differences, can also be right.” This chimes with our own mission statement, which says that “The British International School, Shanghai seeks to prepare its students for their role in an increasingly challenging, cosmopolitan and rapidly changing world.” Certainly, the formidable combination of the top quality teaching and facilities at our school and the highly regarded IB course is an excellent preparation for higher education. Every IB Diploma student studies six different subjects, which must include courses in literature, a sec-
124 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
ond language, a social science, a natural science and Mathematics. They are also strongly encouraged to study one of the arts. This breadth of study helps to develop the sort of well-rounded education which is demanded by our increasingly cosmopolitan globalised society. Our school offers an outstanding selection of subject choices, including five different languages, as well as all the traditional subjects you would expect to see at any top international school. We are also proud to be able to offer exciting new IB courses such as Film and Environmental Systems. All IB subjects incorporate a coursework element, ensuring that a significant part of the assessment is based on applying the knowledge learned in class. The Science courses, for example, are designed to provide a balance between understanding theory and practical experimentation. In Arts subjects such as Film and Visual Art, the entire syllabus is coursework-based, meaning that learners are actually creating art as well as studying it.
125 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
H
However, what distinguishes the IB Diploma from other post-16 courses are three unique elements, all of which are geared towards developing the skills which will bring success in higher education. These are the Extended Essay, the Theory of Knowledge course and the Creativity, Action, Service programme.
“Every IB Diploma student studies six different subjects, which must include courses in literature, a second language, a social science, a natural science and Mathematics� Students will find that in university there is an increasing focus on producing work which is well-researched and written to a high academic standard. Working on the 4,000-word Extended Essay allows them to develop some of those skills under the expert supervision of one of our experienced teaching staff. Selecting one of their six subjects, they form a thesis question in a topic of their choice before embarking on extensive research. The net result of a process which can take a whole year and several drafts and redrafts is a piece of work which is of greater quality and depth than anything they have ever done before. The Theory of Knowledge course helps to develop analytical and critical thinking skills. Combining a philosophical approach with a more practical look at how knowledge is obtained in contrasting academic disciplines, it encourages rigorous thinking process-
126 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Education Supplement
es as well as an understanding of different perspectives. Part of the assessment is by oral presentation, which develops important public speaking skills and helps build confidence. The third of these special elements of the IB is the Creativity, Action, Service (CAS) programme, which aims to help students realise their potential to become leaders and organisers, as well as to establish their position as a contributing member of a caring community. It is a practical course which takes place outside the classroom and involves such varied activities as sport, drama, art, creative skills and community service. IB students take ownership of this process by setting targets for their self-development. CAS projects have produced some memorable moments. Within the Creativity component, there have been some unforgettable performances in music and drama. As well as stepping into the limelight with remarkable solo performances or leading acting parts, CAS students have also made essential contributions working backstage on props and lighting. The Action part of the CAS programme has opened up opportunities to learn survival skills and to develop sporting prowess in competition with other Shanghai schools. In the area of Service, links have been established with a number of charities, both locally and internationally. Our students have been involved in the practical work of those organisations and have also raised substantial sums of money for charitable causes.
All in all, the International Baccalaureate Diploma provides a coherent, yet varied, educational experience. The emphasis on independent inquiry and the demanding workload provide ideal preparation for higher education and promote attitudes that will stand students in good stead throughout their lives.
127 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
LIVING IN SHANGHAI
PHOTO BY MARTIN BROWN
Living in Shanghai
CONTENTS INTRO
Once you have found your new home, settled in and enrolled your kids in a good school, life in Shanghai begins. Those elements that comprise the quality of life that you are used to are for the most part available in Shanghai. In many ways your quality of life may increase. In Shanghai you will have access to a new world of possibilities including sumptuous and affordable massage, world-class shopping and fun and interesting activities to enjoy with your loved ones. This section will help guide you through the basics of living and enjoying your life in Shanghai. The information and advice offered here is only the beginning however. Beyond the borders of this book, you will find many hidden treasures that will surprise and amaze you whilst at the same time broadening your understanding of one of the oldest civilisations on Earth. Enjoy!
Health and Wellness p 132 Practising Religion p 137 Eating and Drinking p 140 Shopping p 146 Tourist Attractions p 156 Parks and Recreation p 160 Golfing p 166 Family Activities p 168 Family Supplement p 178 Getting Involved p 184 2010 World Expo p 186 Shanghai Neighbourhoods p 188 Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement p 200 Maps p 222
131 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health and Wellness
Health and wellness is a very important part of Chinese society. If you go beyond the borders of this book, you will find an amazing and diverse world found few other places.
L
iving in Shanghai, while fun and dynamic, can be physically and mentally taxing. It’s easy to neglect to maintain a healthy mind and body. Many expats who move to Shanghai suddenly find that they have an incredibly busy schedule, mixing work, long commutes and social events. Given the poor air quality and lack of open green spaces, it’s important to organise time and space for your health. At first, Shanghai appears to restrict your ability to exercise and find mental peace. However, the city is surprisingly accommodating, with many conventional Westernstyle gyms and fitness facilities. Living in Shanghai is also an opportunity to experience traditionally Eastern approaches to mental and physical wellbeing, such as yoga and acupuncture. And, given the number of expats from around the globe living in Shanghai, there’s bound to be a group or league for your sport or exercise.
Health and Wellness
Health Clubs
A
n increasing interest in health and fitness in Shanghai, combined with rising incomes and international influences, have led to new upscale health clubs popping up throughout the city. All offer fitness facilities such as cardio machines and free weights and fitness classes including aerobics, yoga and body pump. More elaborate facilities also provide access to swimming pools, tennis courts and spas. As with many luxuries in Shanghai, they might not be cheap, but you still pay considerably less than you would for comparable facilities back home. Local clubs that target Chinese patrons are much cheaper, but also much less well-equipped, perhaps offering table tennis and badminton rather than swimming and squash. Most new apartment buildings and villas have modern, spacious facilities for residents. The key to maintaining an exercise routine over time is not finding the best fitness club, but finding a suitable facility conveniently near your place of work or home. Therefore, start your search there. Star Gym 428 Jiangning Lu 6267 4524 Relaxed gym with mix of local and foreign patrons. Swimming pool, weight room and cardio equipment available to members and use of yoga rooms,
132 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health and Wellness spinning room and a spa for an additional charge. Physical (Huaihai) 3/F, Hong Kong Plaza, 282 Huaihai Zhong Lu 6390 8188, 6390 8166 Physical is a popular gym with various locations throughout Shanghai. They have cardio equipment, free weights and a large floor for classes such as yoga, belly dancing and kickboxing. Personal trainers are available for private tutorials. Xpat Gym 2000 Jianhe Lu, near Hongqiao Lu 6261 8982 This New-Age gym focuses on holistic fitness and as such specialises in services including pilates, yoga, core strength, balance and flexibility classes. Megafit B/3, Hong Kong New World Tower, 300 Huaihai Zhong Lu 5383 6633 A long-running fitness establishment in Shanghai which offers, aside from the usual cardio and free weights, a spa, yoga room, boxing ring, sauna and health bar. Champs Elysees Fitness Club 15/F, 1555 Dingxi Lu 6240 8888 Facilities at this gym include cardio equipment, free weights, outdoor swimming pool, spa and hair salon. Ambassy Club B/F, 1500 Huaihai Zhong lu info@ambassyclub.com.cn The Ambassy Club is Shanghai’s first private club of its kind in Shanghai. It has excellent facilities including squash courts, indoor and outdoor pools, gym, yoga and much more. It is popular with foreigners and upscale Chinese.
If health and wellness is important to you then consider the facilities that your apartment or compound has. Some residences like the Shanghai Racquet Club and Ambassy Court have fantastic facilities.
Will’s Gym www.willsgym.com With 17 locations throughout Shanghai, Will’s Gym is Shanghai’s largest. Its facilities are what one would expect from a typical Western gym. Many locations are busy, so if you are looking for an opportunity to socialise while at the gym, this may be a good choice for you. (Reviews courtesy of www.smartshanghai.com)
133 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health and Wellness Health and Wellness Chinese Health
R
ather than concentrating on building cardiovascular stamina and body strength, the Chinese concept of fitness focuses on general health in a holistic sense. Living in Shanghai is a great opportunity to explore holistic health. Places offering massages, acupuncture, martial arts and meditation are relatively inexpensive and can be found throughout the city. Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) is based on a pre-scientific paradigm of medicine that developed over several thousand years and involves concepts that have no counterpart within contemporary scientific methodology. In TCM, the body is treated as a whole comprised of several systems of function.
Acupuncture and Acupressure
R
Yin and Yang are two fundamental principles of Chinese philosophy. Yin represents feminine, dark, passive, cold and negative. Yang represents masculine, bright, active, dry, hot and positive. It is the balance of these forces that underlies Chinese wellness.
eports from the National Center for Complementary and Alternative Medicine (NCCAM) and the American Medical Association (AMA), as well as various government reports, have studied and commented on the efficacy of acupuncture. There is general agreement that acupuncture is safe when administered by well-trained practitioners using sterile needles. Acupuncture and acupressure are available in Shanghai through several established hospitals, such as the Shanghai University of Traditional Chinese Medicine (www.shutcm.com/english) and ParkwayHealth (with an English-speaking doctor). It’s useful to do some research and go to an English-speaking practitioner the first time, so that you gain an understanding of the process. If you do decide to go to a local practitioner, make sure they have been recommended. While acupressure is basically safe, there are health concerns with acupuncture including hygiene, sterilisation of needles (even packaged needles may have been recycled) and herbal medications.
Yoga
O
ne of the best ways to relieve stress while finding inner harmony is through the practice of yoga. Whilst you’ll find Shanghai’s elderly population practicing tai chi in city parks, the younger generation are
134 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health and Wellness stretching and sweating in one of the hundreds of yoga centres across the city. There are several yoga styles to choose from. Hatha yoga focuses on holding postures and enhanced breathing, while Vinyasa emphasises building strength by moving from one posture to the next. If you need to sweat out stress and toxins, give bikram (hot) yoga a go. For beginners, try three to four classes per week. It’ll be painful at first, but long-term practitioners swear by its short- and long-term benefits. Try www.yogafinder.com/yoga.c fm?yogacountry=China&yogacit y=Shanghai for a comprehensive list of yoga centres popular with expats.
Massage
O
ne of the luxuries of living in Shanghai is getting a quality, affordable massage. There are countless massage parlours throughout the city, with prices ranging from RMB 60-400 for a session. The most common form is Chinese massage, which involves digging, prodding and pressure of the main pressure points to facilitate the positive flow of qi throughout the body. This is excellent treatment for sore or knotty muscles. Oriental foot massages feel very therapeutic (unless you’re ticklish) if you’ve been on your feet all day. Aromatherapy massages are another popular form, offering a gentle touch by relying on the power of essential oils that work wonders as they are absorbed into your skin. Avoid massage parlours adorned with red lights or twirling barbershop poles.
For sore back mucles you may want to try ‘cupping’. This technique involves suction and negative pressure and is said to drain toxins and release rigid soft tissue.
135 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Health and Wellness Chinese Tea
T
he practice of drinking tea is deeply ingrained in Chinese culture. It is believed that the practice originated there in 2737 BC. Legends say that while Emperor Shennong was boiling water, a leaf from a Camellia sinensis tree fell into his pot and the tradition was born. In addition to rice, oil, salt, soy sauce, vinegar and firewood, tea is considered one of the necessities of life. All Chinese teas come from the Camellia sinensis plant and can be categorised into four main categories – white, green, oolong and black. Initially, Chinese teas were used primarily for medicinal purposes such as purging the digestive tract of toxins and while most continue to believe in the curative powers of Chinese tea, it has also developed into a flavour loved by most Chinese. You will see green tea-flavoured ice cream and cakes as well as many local dishes. If you have a Chinese superior at work, you can make a good impression by serving him or her tea in the traditional fashion.
The Chinese tea drinking ceremony is used for various cultural purposes in China. It can be employed to show respect, to apologise, in wedding ceremonies and as a means to express thanks.
136 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Practising Religion
C Practising Religion
ontrary to some rumours, it is perfectly acceptable to practise most popular religions in China. There are five official religions in China and all are represented in Shanghai: Buddhism, Taoism, Catholicism, Protestantism and Islam. Although Judaism is not officially recognised, Shanghai hosts a small but active Jewish community.
There are controls, however; the China-based Catholic Patriotic Association, rather than the Pope, is the ultimate authority over Shanghai's 140,000 Chinese Catholics, while local Protestants look to the Three Self-Patriotic Movement. Practising religion in licenced churches and in the privacy of your home is fine, but avoid proselytising in public – the government disapproves of this behaviour and it could be interpreted as disturbing the peaceful order. In some churches with English services, only foreign passport holders are allowed to attend. Also, avoid spending too much time professing your religion to Chinese colleagues, as it might make them uncomfortable. Definitely steer clear of controversial topics such as religious freedom in Tibet or Falun Gong.
Ohel Moshe Synagogue Museum 62 Changyang Lu 6512 0229 Sacred Heart of Jesus Church 151 Hongfeng Lu, Jinqiao, Pudong Fujia Rose Church 1115 Pudong Da Dao 5885 3172 St. Francis of Xavier Church 185 Dongjiadu Lu Shanghai Community Church 53 Hengshan Lu 6437 6576 Moore Memorial Church 316 Xizang Zhong Lu 6322 5069
Traditional prayers at a temple in Shanghai
137 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
PHOTO BY RICHARD RESTELL
Eating and Drinking
T
In addition to cuisine from all over China, Shanghai has first-class food from all corners of the globe.
Hygiene at some street vendors may not be up to acceptable standards.
here’s nothing more Chinese than socialising over food and China has one of the richest and most diverse culinary traditions on earth. And Shanghai, as a Chinese melting pot, offers the best of Chinese food, served every way imaginable. The history of foreign influence here and an increasing expat population has led to an abundance of international cuisines – from German brauhauses to Indian buffets – at all price levels. Eating out in Shanghai is much cheaper than in other international cities such as Tokyo or London, but if you prefer to cook at home, there are plenty of shopping options. The French chain Carrefour has stores in every neighbourhood, but it’s worth learning the ropes at local wet markets, where fresh cuts and locally grown fruit and vegetables are a bargain by any measure.
Eating and Drinking
Eating Out
S
hanghai dining can be divided into two peacefully coexisting camps: Chinese and foreign. If you’re moving here long-term, you’ll have the opportunity to experience professionally prepared cuisine from all over China and the world. Though it may be easy to fall into a routine with your favorite restaurants or food from home (Shanghai is sure to have it), try to branch out whenever possible. In the end, you probably won’t have a choice, as Chinese business and social events take place over meals. Remember not to offer to pay if a local invites you out, just be sure to return the favour at a later date. It’s also customary to leave a bit of food at the end of the meal – finishing everything is a sign that the host didn’t order enough food. Tipping is not expected at low- and mid-range restaurants. Service varies tremendously. Don’t expect to be checked on frequently, especially when you’re ready to pay. Smoking is allowed almost everywhere. If cigarette smoke bothers you, ask for an isolated table or avoid dining out at busy restaurants between 6pm and 8pm. Street-side eateries certainly do not comply with Chinese government standards of hygiene. On the other hand, you’re generally safe at any mid-range or high-end restaurant here.
140 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Eating and Drinking Local/Chinese Cuisine
S
hanghai cuisine is highly regarded, coming from the eastern Chinese school of food preparation. Generally not as spicy as Sichuan dishes from the west of China, nor as salty as Beijing fare, Shanghai/eastern China cuisine makes use of the vegetables cultivated in the fertile farmlands around the Yangtze River and fish from the nearby coastal regions. It’s known for being a bit sweet, due to the Shanghainese penchant for cooking with rice wine. With China’s history of famine, no food is taboo in Shanghai. In food markets you can find snakes, chicken feet, locusts and frogs. Decades of foreign influence have turned Shanghainese palates on to dairy products and baked goods, both of which are available all over the city in local supermarkets and restaurants. Dumplings - Dumplings are a Chinese and Shanghainese specialty, held in high regard, and their preparation is taken very seriously. Shanghai dumplings are known locally as xiaolongbao and are filled with meat or seafood. The skin is very delicate so that the juices ooze out into the broth, giving the soup a stunningly rich flavour. In the morning, try baozi (steamed buns). These popular Shanghai breakfast items are round with a thick fluffy skin. On the inside, you’ll find a filling of either meat or vegetable. Hairy crab - These fill the streets and fuel the city every year from September to December. When locals aren’t feasting on them in their homes, they’re eating them in family restaurants or opulent banquet halls. Raised in fresh water, hairy crabs are revered for their firm orange roe and uniquely flavoured meat.
Guidebooks offer a good place to start exploring Shanghai’s cuisine; however, untold treasures await those with a sense of adventure.
A local chef prepares dumplings.
Shanghai also specialises in cold dishes, which are normally served at room temperature. They include jellyfish flavoured with sesame oil, mashed soybeans and, no joke,
Hairy crab at the market
141 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Eating and Drinking drunken chicken or shrimp. In drunken dishes, the animal is doused in rice wine until the flavour permeates the meat.
Trying a more Western-friendly Chinese establishment first will open doors to more local restaurants with a more diverse and interesting menu.
Many local restaurants have pictures in the menu, which makes choosing items a lot less difficult than it may seem at first.
Drawn by its rampant economic growth, migrants from all over China come to Shanghai, bringing their regional tastes with them. Consequently, you can enjoy the entire spectrum of Chinese food. In Shanghai, you can get stews from what was once Manchuria, roast mutton from Xinjiang, duck from Beijing and dim sum from Hong Kong. Before you’re ready to confidently walk into a local hole-in-the-wall family diner and pick apart the Chinese menu, have a meal or two at one of these restaurants. (source of reviews - www.cityweekend.com) Jesse Restaurant Unit 4, Bldg 9, Lane 169 Taicang Lu, near Huangpi Nan Lu, Metro Line 1 Huangpi Nan Lu Station “This bustling chain can be found all over Shanghai, and is a great place to be introduced to Shanghai and Chinese cuisine. The sleek dining rooms (think Shanghainese meets urban chic) serve a selection of local fare and dishes from all over the world. Whether it's roast duck breast or sticky rice dates, they have it.” Xiao Nan Guo Many locations www.xiaonanguo.com.cn “As one of the most renowned Chinese restaurants in Shanghai, the consistent quality of the delectable dishes, including the warm crab, roasted pig feet and garden salads, brings loyal patrons back again and again. Reserva-
Trditional Shanghai Xiaolongbao
142 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Eating and Drinking tions are recommended at any of the numerous elegantly decorated and oft-crowded branches throughout the city.”
International Cuisine
I
t would take an entire volume in itself to do any justice to the international dining options in Shanghai. There are outstanding restaurants serving top-shelf dishes from all corners of the globe. As Shanghai becomes more and more trendy, elite chefs are moving in from places like Paris, New York and Tokyo. For up-to-date reviews and locations, browse one of the popular expat websites that specialise in posting reviews and comments on international restaurants. www.enjoyshanghai.com/dining/reviews www.cityweekend.com.cn/shanghai/listings/dining/shanghai www.zagat.com/China/Shanghai www.smartshanghai.com
Vegetarian Food
S
ome Chinese cuisine might look vegetarian, but the tofu and string beans have likely been enriched with pork fat. Meat is often the stock of sauces. If you’re at a Chinese restaurant, clearly explain to the staff ‘wo chi shu’ (I’m a vegetarian). If you are then served a dish with meat, politely send it back immediately without paying. Shanghai has a growing number of vegetarian restaurants that use tofu to imitate meat. There are plenty of Western restaurants that serve traditional vegetarian standbys such as pizza, pasta and salad. Food shopping is not a problem for vegetarians. Local and international supermarkets are usually well-stocked with a variety of vegetables, and cooks will be more than happy with the variety of soy products.
Essentials Guide Shanghai recommends Jean Georges Restaurant as the best food in Shanghai. It’s not cheap, but the culinary experience is well worth the price. 4/F Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu 6321 7733
Delivery
H
aving food delivered is not as common in Shanghai as it is in many Western countries, but it is still available and convenient. Get to know the staff at your favourite local noodle and dumpling joints, ask them “keyi wai mai ma?” (do you deliver?) and chances are they’ll be happy to bring a meal to your door for no extra charge, or at most a nominal fee. Most pizza places deliver until late in the evening. For restaurant delivery, Sherpa’s (www.sherpa.com.cn) is a bilingual city-wide delivery service and is incredibly popular among expats. They deliver food to your door from over 70 Chinese and international restaurants.
143 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Eating and Drinking Drinking
A
Coffee is relatively expensive in China. Often the purchase price will include an expected stay in the restaurant. If you are looking for a reasonably priced cup of coffee, McDonald’s is an OK choice and they are everywhere.
ll types of alcohol are widely consumed in Shanghai. The bar and nightclub scene has taken off in recent years, from a few quiet restaurants and seedy karaoke bars to dozens of dive bars, live-music venues, British sports pubs and trendy nightclubs. The highest concentration of stylish establishments is in the former French Concession and on the Bund, where you can get top-notch martinis and spectacular views of the new Pudong skyline across the river. There are new ‘in’ spots springing up all the time, and it’s best to get a feel for the current vibe by asking around and checking the buzz on www.cityweekend.com, www.enjoyshanghai.com, www. urbanatomy.com or www.shanghaiexpat.com. Chinese red wines such as Great Wall and Grace Vineyard, which used to be unpalatable, have come a long way. Imported wines from Australia, the US and Europe are available at international supermarkets. Chinese beers such as Tsingtao are sold cheaply at local supermarkets alongside imported Japanese beer, and occasionally Heineken, that cost a few RMB more per bottle. Most bars serve a few draught beers, but don’t expect anything like the selection at a pub back home. For something different, try baijiu, a grain-based spirit brewed differently in each region in China. Take the first drink slowly, as some varieties reach 50% alcohol! The Chinese love their tea and the local favourite is green tea (lucha). There are elegant teashops throughout the city, with the largest on Caobao Lu and Datong Lu. Coffee has always been hugely popular in Shanghai among both locals and expats. During the Cultural Revolution (1966-76) all the existing coffee houses – most established by local artists, writers and intellectuals in the 1920s and 30s – closed. Now they’re back, with well over 60 coffee chains in Shanghai thronged with foreign and Chinese students, professionals and tourists from all walks of life. Many newer coffee houses also serve healthy sandwiches, wraps and smoothies. Recommended Cafes: Ginger 299 Fuxing Lu Tucked away in an old alley, Ginger offers excellent coffee and some serenity close to bustling Fuxing Lu. Boonna 88 Xinle Lu Another very trendy and very comfortable spot in the former French Concession that serves strong espressos, snacks and sandwiches.
144 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Eating and Drinking House of Flour 1/F, 635 Bibo Lu, Zhangjiang Tech Park, Pudong Pudong doesn’t have the chic café scene of Puxi; however, House of Flour gets rave reviews from expats craving the precious baked specialties of Singaporean baker Brian Tan.
Food Shopping
S
hanghai is bursting with a ridiculous number of food vendors, and it’s not difficult to find the right foods to stock your pantry. They come in all forms – from street stalls selling roasted sweet potatoes to Carrefour superstores. Due to the density of Shanghai urban architecture, many shops and even at times larger establishments are tucked away or easily missed in some of the stimulating neighborhoods. For bulk food shopping, the French megamarket Carrefour is probably your best bet. It carries a huge variety of local and imported goods, all at reasonable prices. City Shop is a highend supermarket specialising in imported novelties. If you really crave pancake mix or an Australian cut, this is the place to find it. City Shop also has one of the best selections of imported wine, beer and spirits. It carries a huge variety of local and imported goods, all at reasonable prices. For daily shopping, get to know your local supermarket, as well as fruit and vegetable vendors. The local supermarket is the most convenient stop for toiletries, eggs, milk and all kinds of weird snacks. Local fruit stands offer fresh produce cultivated in the region. Getting to know your local vendors is a great way to eat fresh, healthy food, save money and practise your Chinese. The Tongchuan Lu Seafood Market is the city’s largest, with nearly 1,000 vendors selling everything the sea holds. Even if you don’t plan to stock up on hairy crabs or jellyfish, the experience alone warrants a visit.
Expect to pay high prices on imported groceries that have relatively large volume (breakfast cereal) or that are perishable.
Supermarkets in China can be very busy and stressful for the newly arrived.
145 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shopping
O
n a good day, shopping in Shanghai is a delightful and engaging experience, where one can revel in all of the city’s sensations, discover hidden gems and feel fully immersed in the flow of China’s thriving consumer culture. On a bad day, however, lines and crowds are spirit crushing, bargains are fleeting and it takes far too long to find something simple. Either way, it’s an adventure. And as Shanghai’s consumer infrastructure matures, the good days are becoming far more frequent for expat shoppers. You can find anything in Shanghai, from Christian Dior on Nanjing Lu to Chairman Mao dolls at the Dongtai antique market.
Shopping
If you want to avoid the long lines and huge crowds, the same rules as home apply - shop on weekdays, in the mornings, or when its cold or rainy. Try a combination to ensure that your shopping experience is more relaxed.
Shopping on Nanjing Lu
146 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shopping
Shopping in Xintiandi
General
T
he main shopping areas are in Puxi. Huaihai Lu and Nanjing Lu are the two principal shopping boulevards, both cross-cutting the city from east to west. They’re lined with the same high-end international shops to be found on Madison Avenue, interspersed with elegant hotels and fine dining. Shanghai has several immense malls. On a rainy day, you can find almost anything you need at the Cloud Nine Shopping Mall, attached to the Zhongshan Park Metro station, or the malls in Xujiahui. Plaza 66, on Nanjing Lu, is a great place to max out your credit card on accessories on a rainy day.
Keep in mind that genuine imported luxury items will most often be more expensive in China. All the luxury brands are in Shanghai, but they come at a price.
The most convenient, visitor-friendly place to shop is Xintiandi – a neighbourhood with reconstructed traditional housing converted into upmarket shops, cafés and restaurants. Here you can stroll along pleasant streets seeking the perfect outfit for a sundowner on a Bund terrace later in the evening. For the highest concentration of international labels and upcoming local brands, proceed directly to the tree-lined streets of the former French Concession. Explore the shops on Nanchang Lu, Shaanxi Lu, Fuxing Lu and Julu Lu. Make a day of it. Enjoy some of Shanghai’s most elegant cafés, restaurants and bars in between forays into trendy boutiques. Other than in well-established international chain stores, prices are generally cheaper than at home and almost always negotiable. Although credit cards are more widely accepted than in the past, China is still very much a cash society. There are plenty of markets selling fakes and knock-offs all
147 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shopping over Shanghai. To the untrained eye, it’s hard to tell a fake Coach bag from the real McCoy. Generally, if the price seems too good to be true, it probably is. The biggest problem Shanghai’s foreign shoppers come up against is sizing. There’s a distinct lack of larger sizes in Shanghai shops. There’s also no standardised sizing system, and you’re likely to find clothes using a mix of European, UK and US sizing, even in the same shop. Remember that you get what you pay for. Expect that the lowest price you negotiate will not be the best quality on offer. After you settle on the price, offer a little more and make clear that if you are happy you will return. The results of this strategy will ensure your satisfaction.
Markets
M
arkets in Shanghai stock everything from custom made suits and dresses to antique furniture to live crickets and they demand the skills of a determined haggler. Take your time and scan all the stalls before making purchases. Remember to bargain way down from the first quoted price. Here are some must visits: The South Bund Fabric Market 399 Lujiabang Lu If you’ve been let down by the petite sizes and uncertainties regarding brand authenticity, try putting together a classy wardrobe at the South Bund Fabric Market. It contains over 100 stalls crammed into a four-storey building selling all kinds of cotton, wool, cashmere and silk. They have model designs (in petite sizes), but you certainly don’t have to buy those. Simply pick out a clothing design, colour and fabric. Staff will then take your measurements on the spot, and a few days later you return to collect your fitted garment. Better yet, bring in a photo from a fashion magazine. The market is also a favorite for businessmen looking for a new suit, overcoat or tuxedo. The market also has an abundance of accessories such as ties, cuf-
The South Bund Fabric Market
148 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shopping flinks, belts braces amongst many others. You can expect a price range of RMB 400 to 3000. In this range, there is a huge difference in the quality of the worksmanship. If you are purchasing a suit that you will use often, don’t be afraid to pay a midrange price as you will be more satisfied with the quality. Dongtai Lu Antique Market 87 Dongtai Lu, near Huaihai Park Several charming streets full of stalls selling old coins, books, Chairman Mao figurines, classic propaganda posters and other assorted curiosities. Whilst many of the items found at the market are replicas, experienced antique shoppers will be able to find genuine items. Some claim to have uncovered extremely valuable items at basement prices. Yuyuan Bazaar Fuyou Lu, near Jiujianchang Lu A bustling market selling Chinese lanterns, board games, novelty chopsticks and pretty much every other souvenir you can think of. Be aware that this is perhaps the epicentre of tourism in Shanghai. The prices will be more expensive and it is almost always crowded. Shanghai Electronics Market 638 Qiujiang Lu, 91 Baoshan Lu and 723 Qiujiang Lu If you’re tech-savvy, this is the place to go for grey market electronics. The best purchases are non-branded electronics sold wholesale to grey market
When looking for a good bargain, try getting up early and being the first in the shop. Vendors will often give the first customer a better deal.
Better bargains can often be found near the back space of Shanghai markets. The vendors there get less traffic and are more willing to strike a favourable deal.
Dongtai Antique Market (left) and Yuyuan Bazaar (right)
149 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shopping vendors by the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) As always, however, be aware that looks can be deceiving. If you have just purchased what you believe to be an incredibly cheap iPod, don’t be disappointed if it is nonfunctioning by day three.
Video game systems such as Wii and Xbox sold at grey markets have been cracked to play pirated versions of games.
Xujiahui Electronics Market Zhaojiabang Lu and Huashan Lu The electronics centre of Shanghai is Xujiahui, where you’ll find malls, stalls and superstores overflowing with goods. You can literally find every electronics brand imaginable in this market which also offers an assortment of grey market goods. On your way there keep an eye open for the big glass ball that marks the location of the market. Set aside a few hours to browse several stores and compare prices. In many areas, such as the massive Metro City, prices are very negotiable. This is not the case at the Best Buy across the street. Prices will still be a bit higher than the US, but comparable to Europe.
Xujiahui is an electronics fan’s dream.
150 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shopping Book Markets English-language bookstores are few and far between, but there are a few with a decent selection. Two of the best ones are on Fuzhou Lu, near People’s Square. The Foreign Languages Bookstore, 390 Fuzhou Lu, and Shanghai Book City, 465 Fuzhou Lu, both contain English-language sections. In the former French Concession, Garden Books, 325 Changle Lu, is a friendly place to browse English-language books while sipping an expresso or two. Strolling in the former French Concession or Xintiandi, you’re likely to encounter street stalls selling copies of popular paperbacks. Keep in mind that prices for foreign books in China are relatively high. DVD and Music Markets There are illegal DVD shops all over Shanghai. If you have no moral qualms about it, you can pick up almost any popular Chinese or foreign film for RMB 7-8. Most established vendors also sell box sets of popular series and music CDs. Quality varies, and while some shops accept returns, others don’t. It’s best to try a few shops and stick with one that consistently sells quality discs and that you can trust.
Books on sale in China must be approved by the government. Don’t expect to find controversial titles.
Sporting Goods Markets All the major sports brands are available in Shanghai. There’s a Nike store on Shaanxi Lu and an Adidas store on Huaihai Lu. All the malls sell sporting goods and there are some good sporting equipment shops around Shanghai Indoor Stadium. Kids and Toy Markets H&M and Zara, both on Huaihai Lu, offer miniature sizes at reasonable prices. But the best spot in town is Nihong Kids Plaza. This underground market caters entirely to children, who swarm around exhausted parents. You can find cheap clothing, shoes and learning toys. All big supermarkets and Watson’s outlets sell a range of imported goods, including Huggies, Pampers and Johnson & Johnson. A great organisation for baby items is Shanghai Toy Club (www. shanghaitoyclub.com.cn), where you can hire or buy toys for newborns and toddlers. Shanghai Toy Club can also connect you with cheap child-care products which may not be available elsewhere in Shanghai.
151 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shopping Hongqiao Flower and Plant Market 718 Hongjing Lu, Hongqiao This market has a vast array of plants and flowers and is a good choice for a visit if you want to warm up your new residence. Delivery is available for a price.
For luxury items, many foreigners prefer to travel to Hong Kong where the mainland luxury import tax does not apply.
Hongqiao Pearl City Corner of Hongmei Lu and Yan’an Lu The second floor of this market has a dizzying array of pearls, semi-precious stones, turquoise and coral jewelry. The main floor of the complex is a souvenir, clothing, sports, and accessory market which is very popular with foreigners. If you need anything from table runners, to socks, to golf clubs or sunglasses, this market has it. To get a good price at this market you must be an experienced haggler as the vendors are used to unwitting foreigners who inadvertantly pay far too much for their goods. Shanghai Shiliu Puhong Qixiang Cloth Market 168 Dongmen Lu near Yuyuan Garden A quieter and less crowded version of the South Bund Fabric Market. You will find the same fabrics at comparable prices. Expect English-speaking vendors but take a translator if your needs are complex.
Bargaining Bargaining is part of shopping on the streets and in the markets of Shanghai. Merchants expect it and it’s usually carried out in good humour. Market vendors are well aware of the money that expats spend in Shanghai and will usually begin with an outrageous price. Start very low from your end until you reach an agreement. Aim for about one-third of the original quote. They’re professionals and have seen all the tricks, including the walk-away, the ‘I’m not that interested’ and the plea of poverty. The best way to get the price you want is to first consider what the item is actually worth to you. Be firm and honest with the merchant, and keep your sense of humour. Knowing some Chinese will help you get a better price; carrying around large shopping bags from nearby stalls or stores will not. If you really want a local price for market goods and souvenirs, go to the market and make a list of the items you want then have a Chinese friend go to the market without you and purchase the goods.
152 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shopping
Shanghai has a fast growing domestic fashion scene. If you take the time to visit the Taikang Lu area, you will find many unique designs.
PHOTO BY RICHARD RESTELL
Many locals are oblivious to the rapidly Westernizing world around them.
153 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
PHOTO BY RICHARD RESTELL
Tourist Attractions
The Bund is home to some of Shanghai’s best restaurants. Find a terrace with a vantage point to enjoy your meal and take in the spectacular views.
W
hilst Shanghai remains a popular tourist centre, it does not boast the historic attractions of a city like Beijing. Its evolution from a sleepy fishing village 400 years ago to one of the world’s great cities is one marked by periods of hyper growth. The last was in the 1920s and 30s, which left the city with an attractive architectural heritage. The current period of growth is leaving the city with a new architectural heritage of glass, steel and concrete. This new face of Shanghai is rapidly replacing the old, leaving behind only memories of a Shanghai that was once a very different place on the so-called edge of the world.
Tourist Attractions
As a tourist, soak in the enormity of the city and the change that is happening all around you. Peer down the lanes of old Shanghai as you walk past and take notice of the microcosms of community life that remain, as they will soon be a memory. The historic lane houses are being demolished and replaced with high-rises at an alarming rate. Seek vantage points where possible to get a feel for the scope of the city which seems to have no end. Shanghai’s thousands of high-rises and skyscrapers should make this easy. When sightseeing in Shanghai there is no better place to start than where Shanghai’s prolific rise began – the Bund.
The Bund
G
randly skirting the Huangpu River, the Bund is a promenade of elegant late nineteenth-century buildings and is Shanghai’s most famous landmark. A century ago, this was the heart of the former International Concession, populated by raucous foreign industrialists. Its magnificent yet dignified skyline consists of the formerly Western-owned banks and institutions that once cemented Shanghai’s standing as Asia’s leading financial and commercial centre. The Communist Party, recognising the Bund as a symbol of rampant capitalism and foreign imperialism, virtually shut down the area for 50 years. The revival began in the late 1990s. Since then, some of the world’s most famous retail and hospitality brands have been vying for a piece of what is beginning to look like China’s Fifth Avenue. The buildings are well-preserved and it’s worth taking the time to casually stroll along the boulevard and pay attention to the architectural details. In the evening, get a table at one of the restaurants or cocktail bars on the upper floors for a breathtaking view of the futuristic Pudong skyline across the
156 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Tourist Attractions Huangpu River. The contrast between old Shanghai wealth and new across the river is striking and a memorable experience for all visitors. For a relaxed view of the Bund, visit Building No. 3, near the southern end of the promenade. Formerly the Union Insurance Company Building, No. 3 was constructed in 1916 in Renaissance style, with lavish detailing. It has been reborn in the 21st century as a retail, restaurant and culture complex, home to the only Evian Spa outside France and showcase stores of Hugo Boss and Giorgio Armani. The Shanghai Gallery of Art, on the third floor, has a reputation for impressive exhibitions of Chinese and international contemporary art. However, for a first visit, go directly up to the 7th-floor terrace for a drink at New Heights. The relaxed, open patio is the ideal place for a panorama of the Bund and the spectacular illuminated skyscrapers of Pudong. Though crime is relatively low in Shanghai by Western standards, there is no shortage of pick pockets.
The Bund at night
157 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Tourist Attractions Shanghai Museum
S
The Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center is a good place to start your tourist journey through Shanghai as it will help you get your bearings.
hanghai Museum, on the southern end of People’s Square, is a world-class showpiece of Chinese cultural artifacts whose only competitors are the Palace Museums in Beijing and Taipei. Apart from the permanent collection of 123,000 separate items (only just over half have ever been displayed), the building itself is a marvel. From the outside, it’s distinctive for its round top in the shape of an ancient Chinese cooking vessel, or ding. The building also symbolises the ancient Chinese notion of a square earth and a round sky. The spacious marble atrium provides a serene welcome to the 14 galleries, each perfectly displayed to allow visitors to give their undivided attention to each piece. The calm gallery lighting contrasts nicely with the graceful illumination awarded to the splendid artifacts, which allows viewers to feel a connection to the art. This is particularly true in the Jade Gallery and Ancient Chinese Sculpture Gallery. Set aside time to appreciate the Bronze Gallery for its extensive collection of ancient ritual bronzes, some of which date back to the 18th century BC. The Ming and Qing Furniture Galleries are also worth a careful look, especially the two mock Ming rooms. And while you might be tempted to skip the Coin Gallery, at least check out the small room at the back that holds a collection of Silk Road coins that spans over 2,600 years.
The Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center
L
The World Financial Center (Right)
ike Shanghai Museum next door, the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center doesn’t necessarily draw visitors with an enticing name. Though it sounds bureaucratic, it contains a dynamic and engaging display of Shanghai’s past, present and future. A countdown clock on the front façade displaying the days left until the commencement of the 2010 World Expo drives home the message that this is a city with purpose. Inside the building, images and models guide you through Shanghai’s evolution from swampy delta backwater to international boomtown. And finally, on the third floor, you can experience the world’s largest city model, showing how Shanghai is intended to look in 2020. It’s an excellent way to get a grasp of the massive scale of the city of Shanghai and its ambitions. The fourth floor highlights a series of key projects for future growth and concludes with an entertaining
158 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Tourist Attractions virtual tour of the World Expo showcases. The Urban Planning Center is in People’s Square, north of Shanghai Museum. Take the Metro to People’s Square. For more information, visit www.supec.org. Admission is RMB 30 for adults, RMB 15 for students and children.
Shanghai World Financial Center
T
he Urban Planning Museum is an excellent model of Shanghai. However, it’s best to get up top and see the real thing. The Oriental Pearl Tower is Shanghai’s showpiece landmark – something to put on postcards to represent Shanghai’s mania for everything kitsch. Enjoy it from one of the bars or restaurants on the Bund, but save the RMB 140 it costs to visit the top of the building with throngs of Chinese tourists for a drink or two in the Shanghai World Financial Center (WFC). Towering like a giant bottle-opener at 492 metres (1,614 feet), the WFC offers visitors several ways to enjoy getting high. One of the ear-popping elevators can whiz you up to the 94th-floor observation deck. Better yet, continue on up to the VIP Observation Aisle, a glassbottomed walkway delivering stomachchurning views over Shanghai, including the next-door Jinmao Tower, previously holder of the crown as Shanghai’s tallest building. To calm the nerves, enjoy any of the other perches atop Shanghai in style. There’s a French restaurant on the 87th floor, and the 92nd-floor whiskey cellar in the slick Park Hyatt Hotel. The building is at 100 Century Avenue. To get there, take the Metro to Lujiazui. Also, check out www.swfc-shanghai.com.
159 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Parks and Recreation Parks in Shanghai
F
or family outings, Shanghai offers both indoor and outdoor activities and public spaces. The season will probably dictate which you prefer to explore with your family. Shanghai’s parks are generally clean and well-kept, with walking paths, lotus ponds and manicured gardens. Shanghai residents make full use of these spaces, using them almost as open community centres.
Parks and Recreation
Most downtown parks and green spaces are centres of community life and bustling with activities of all sorts on the weekends. You might see locals doing tai chi, dancing and singing in large groups or fishing in the many ponds.
When you visit a park in Puxi, you’ll see the elderly practicing tai chi, playing chess, taking impromptu dance lessons or enjoying picnics. In People’s Park, you’re likely to stumble upon Chinese parents busily pairing up profiles of their sons and daughters in what can best be described as a matchmaking market. These are fantastic places to comfortably observe Shanghai life and culture. What they frequently lack, however, is a wide green space for
Fuxing Park
160 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Parks and Recreation
There are hundreds of small parks all over Shanghai - many in unlikely places.
sprawling out or kicking a ball around. The lawns, gardens and ponds are beautiful to look at, but trampling about is often prohibited. Pudong, on the other hand, has been planned to provide more Western-style open green space for young families, and there are several newly-opened parks, with more in the works for 2010. Shanghai’s zoological parks are popular, but the animals are treated poorly compared to Western standards and you may struggle with the crowds. In Puxi, the best parks are in the former French Concession and its vicinity. Highlights include Xuhui Park, Xiangyang Park and Hengshan Park – all ideal places to observe quintessential Shanghai park culture and have a stroll. The largest, Fuxing Park, is a landscaping gem with a maze of ivycovered archways. The park hosts the annual Shanghai Jazz Festival and has excellent dining options. Zhongshan Park, in Changning District, is a quiet getaway with green open fields and kite-flyers if you’re in the area, but not necessarily worth a trip from another district. The Shanghai Botanical Garden is home to a range of green expanses and various horticultural environments and man-made lotus ponds, including a greenhouse with jungle and composite desert.
Most of the larger parks in Shanghai have family friendly activities for kids. If you venture off the beaten expat track and visit one of the more local parks you will be pleasantly surprised by the gardens and activities for the whole family.
In many parks, such as Jing’an Park, you can pay a small fee to enter an inner sanctuary which will provide some escape from the crowds.
161 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Parks and Recreation Recommended family-friendly parks: Gongqing Forest Park Jungong Lu, near Yingang Lu
When you are cought up in the hustle and bustle of Shanghai life, a visit to one of the lesser known and more nature oriented parks in Shanghai can provide you with a perspective that the country is not all concrete and glass.
Gongqing Forest Park is well outside the downtown noise and commotion, but still close to Metro Line 8, making it convenient to visit. Though ideal for setting up a picnic and relaxing along the lake or on one of the lawns, there’s a day’s worth of activities in the park. There’s a small amusement park, a botanical garden and several playgrounds – not to mention the closest thing to a real forest you’ll find in the Shanghai metro area. You can spend the night there in one of the bungalows, which are fully equipped and comfortable.
Gongqing Forest Park Changfeng Park Located between Jinshajiang Lu to the north, Guangfu Lu to the south and Zaoyang Lu to the east, next to the back entrance of East China Normal University (Huadong Shifan Daxue). Go by taxi, as the park is about a 20-minute walk down busy streets from Zhongshan Park Metro Station. This park maintains a certain old charm, personified by the aging – yet entertaining – activities that go along with a nice lake and lawns. There are some classic amusement rides and families or couples can rent boats. The older version of Shanghai Ocean World displays colourful marine life and includes an ‘Inca temple’ and a ‘pirate ship’. The live shows include dolphins and clowns. It’s corny, but very popular with small children.
162 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Parks and Recreation
Changfeng Park
Century Park Pudong New Area, Metro Line 2 Sprawling Century Park is one of the biggest parks in Shanghai and probably has the cleanest air. This vast park at the end of Century Avenue covers 140 hectares next to the Shanghai Science and Technology Museum (see below). The open green lawns, woods and various facilities make it an ideal place for family weekend activities. From several vantage points there are breathtaking skyline views. Families can spend the night in comfortable bungalows here for overnight stays.
Though it may not be readily apparent when looking at Shanghai’s impressive skyline, the concept of humanity’s connection to nature is highly developed in China.
Century Park
163 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Parks and Recreation Zhabei Park 400 Pingxingguan Lu near Yanchang Lu Metro Station Home to Shanghai’s annual Tea Culture Festival, Zhabei Park is quite different than other parks in Shanghai. It has beaches and carnival rides and is bustling with seniors socialising, dancing and singing. The park is near the Luochan seafood restaurant area, which has a wide variety of options for lunch.
Water fun and tai chi at Zhabei Park
Daning Lingshi Park 288 Guangzhong Xi Lu
Take advantage of the spring and fall days to visit Shanghai parks as the weather is nice and the crowds are smaller than in the summer.
Often overlooked, this walled park is worth visiting. It has a beach, fishing and boating and the pathways offer the opportunity to find some solitude. 1.5 billion RMB was spent renovating the park and the results are evident. It has more of a parkland feeling than any park in Shanghai whilst incorporating opportunites for children to be entertained.
The two faces of Daning Lingshi Park
164 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Parks and Recreation Amusement Parks
D
isney is coming to Shanghai, but it will be a few years before the doors open. In the mean time there are a few options for parents looking for a weekend getaway with the kids. Beyond the Jinjiang Amusement Park (listed below), Shanghai has a number of go kart tracks and even a indoor downhill skiing park. Jinjiang Amusement Park 201 Hongmei Lu, Minhang District Jinjiang Amusement Park opened to much fanfare in 1984 and drew a record number of visitors in its first year (2.4 million). Don’t expect a Six Flags or Disney experience but the park offers the usual suspects such as bumper cars, a ferris wheel, merry-go-round and a roller coaster that will get you inverted more than once. Typical eating options are available and for the RMB 70 entrance fee, six rides are included.
Shanghai Disneyland Resort is scheduled for opening in 2014 in the Pudong district of Shanghai. Anticipation is high as it will bring a new level of entertainment to a city already rich with options.
Jinjiang Amusement Park offers many traditional rides.
165 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Golfing
C
hina, while not as golf crazy as its South Korean neighbour, is developing an infatuation with the game. Though the crowds at the HSBC Champions PGA event and the BMW Asia Open in Shanghai do not compare to equivalent events in Europe and North America, they are growing and new courses are being built to meet the growing demand.
Golfing
Shanghai’s summers can be scorching hot so take advantage of the spring and summer months when the weather is more temperate.
Currently, however, golf is still very much a sport generally reserved for the upper class in China, particularly in cities like Shanghai where real estate prices make the cost of a game on a full-size course prohibitive for middleclass Chinese. This is not to say that average Chinese do not participate but as a proportion of the overal population, their numbers are miniscule. In Shanghai you will find a number of driving ranges and golf courses, both private and public, that cater to those looking for a world-class experience, as well as those looking for a 9-hole pitch and putt. As in many Western countries, golf is a sport that has evolved into an important business tool. In China, a game of golf can be the key to securing a deal or solidifying a developing business relationship. Keep in mind that the concept of face applies. Dealing a crushing defeat to your potential business associate may not be the easiest path to a successful relationship. A number of luxury golf villa developments exist in Shanghai, catering to those who want to live near their passion. The private courses situated on these developments are usually well maintained and not used much. If you can afford one of these residences, they amount to a golfer’s paradise.
Caddies in waiting in Shanghai
Upon visiting one of the many tourist markets, avid golfers will immediately be drawn to stores offering name brand equipment at prices that seem hard to refuse. As with much of the sports products offered in these markets, the quality may be suitable for occasional use, but if you are serious about your game, you will want to bring your own set from home as prices for legitmate equipment in Shanghai are noticably higher.
166 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Golfing Private Golf Courses: Shanghai Golf Club 12 Shuangtang Village, Tangxing Town Jiading District Shanghai Golf Club is a members-only course that features water on 16 of 18 holes. Situated about 50 km from downtown Shanghai, this challenging course has a driving range, pro shop and Japanese restaurant on site. Shanghai Binhai Golf Dongda Highway, Nanhui Pudong Designed by Peter Thompson, Binhai’s Lakes Course offers a challenging links-style experience. Deep bunkers and prevailing winds ensure pars will not be easily achieved. The tree-lined Forest Course adds a nice complement for golfers seeking a day of contrast. Shanghai Country Club 961 Yingzhu Lu, Zhujiajiao Qingpu District Designed by Robert Trent Jones, this set the standard for its competitors when it opened in 1990. In addition to the par 72, 7025yard course, Shanghai Country Club includes leisure facilities, a driving range and a three-hole mini course. Though private, nonmembers may play on selected days. Tomson Shanghai Pudong Golf Course 1 Longdong Dadao Pudong If you can find a way around the membersonly policy, this is an essential stop on your Shanghai golf circuit. Tomson has hosted the BMW Asia Open for the past three years and offers challenging obstacles set against the dramatic Pudong skyline.
One of the pleasant surprises of golfing in China is that caddies are compulsory on most courses and included in the price when they are. Caddies are usually young girls who show surprising skill at club selection after only a few holes. Learn a few golf terms in Chinese and you will understand the good advice being offered by your caddy.
167 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Activities
I
n many respects, Shanghai is very family friendly. There’s virtually no violent crime anywhere in the city; women travel freely day and night and children play independently in parks and back alleys. Chinese culture places a high value on children and learning, and consequently there are many outdoor and indoor options for family outings. Shanghai has a vibrant middle class eager to please – some say spoil – their only children. To accommodate this, businesses and the government often go to great lengths to attract families. Most parks (and some malls) have playgrounds and amusement rides. Some of the museums have childexploration exhibits and seemingly adult activities such as visiting a market are, in fact, circuses of excitement for a youngster, with the mix of colours, people, sideshows and commerce on show.
Family Activities
Visiting one of Shanghai’s many museums is of course a good way to learn about the city and China. What you will get in return for a visit, however, is more than just a history lesson. You will find that your stay in Shanghai is more enjoyable and less stressful because your surroundings will no longer be a complete mystery.
Recommended family-friendly museums: Shanghai Museum People’s Square Shanghai Museum received a USD 700 million facelift in 1996 and is the seminal museum in Shanghai. The museum has been beautifully designed and is expansive – each floor can take hours to explore. It has an excellent array of exhibits which cover both Shanghai and China’s history. This is a good place to start if you are new to China.
Shanghai Museum
168 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Activities The Shanghai Science and Technology Museum Century Avenue, next to Century Park, Pudong The Science and Technology Museum, which is housed in a dramatic contemporary building, is in many ways the most fun and interesting museum for children. Inside, the museum is packed with exhibitions that kids of all ages can enjoy, from space-craft and performing robots to elaborate wildlife dioramas, monster bugs and walk-through caverns. It contains a special child-centred activity zone where children of all ages feel at home, even toddlers. The museum also contains an Imax 4D theatre, which shows films throughout the day on such themes as dinosaurs, insects, space and undersea life. (Source: Urbanatomy)
Though Shanghai’s history is relatively short compared to China’s, it has a deep political history which can be explored in one of the many smaller museums dedicated to prominent figures from the last century.
Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center People’s Square Despite its governmental sounding name, the Urban Planning Exhibition Center (People’s Square) is definitely kid-friendly. This vast 3rd-floor model of Shanghai’s near future cannot fail to fascinate onlookers of all ages. On the floor above, kids will be spellbound by the virtual reality tour of the city. The Shanghai Sculpture Space (570 Huaihai Xi Lu) is certainly worth an outing, with its large grassy field, huge sculptures, innovative spaces and new galleries and restaurants. Other family-friendly examples include the Railway, Public Security and Postal museums, each with its own particular eccentricities and charms. The highlight of the Postal Museum, for example,
169 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Activities is the rooftop patio that is accessed through an elevator in the building’s atrium. (Urbanatomy) The roof garden is almost always empty and offers impressive views. For museums dedicated specifically to kids, it is worth trying the Children’s Museum (61 Songyuan Lu). It is a bit worn, but kids are immediately drawn to the submarine and space ship. The second floor’s ‘discovery centre’ is a miniature city, with a hospital, fire station, beauty parlour, theatre and other attractions. A more upscale kids-only museum is Think Town (5/F, Amanda Plaza, 1118 Changshou Lu). This museum is a bit outshone by its own title, as the interactivity amounts to bouncing up and down and flipping lights on. Perhaps some of the intellectual luminaries such as Einstein overlooking these exhibits were originally inspired by these basic sensory appeals. Nonetheless, with large areas dedicated to both creative and physical play there is a lot here for kids to enjoy. (Admission weekdays RMB 100, weekends RMB 120) Family spots in Shanghai: Despite its reputation as a sprawling metropolis, Shanghai has a wealth of familyfriendly activities.
Active Kidz Shanghai (AKS) Ages 4-13, Nice Year Villa, The Clubhouse, 2/F, 3333 Hongmei Lu Changning District 6406 6757 “Active Kidz Shanghai is a non-profit volunteer organisation dedicated to providing quality sports and recreational programmes to the expatriate community of Shanghai.” (Source - www.activekidz.org) Meadowbrook Equestrian and Rural Activity Centre 3088 Shenzhuan Gong Lu Qingpu District 6983 0022 “Meadowbrook is more than horse back riding, it is all about nature, horses, friendliness, family and professionalism. Meadowbrook is an internationally accredited public Equestrian Center 35 km west of Shanghai in the Qingpu area. It is situated on 35 hectares of grassland, meadows and natural ponds. A team of English-, Mandarin- and Cantonese-speaking staff offers friendly and professional service. There are two covered arenas, the big arena is being rebuilt and is in operation.” (Source - Meadowbrook Shanghai) Fun Dazzle 780 Changning Lu Zhongshan Park 6210 7288 This indoor play centre features tunnel mazes, balancing and swinging ropes, ball pits and slides. All facilities are built for safety so kids can go crazy and
170 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Activities come home ready for a good night’s sleep. Dino Beach 78 Xinzhen Lu, Qibao Town Minhang District 6478 3333 “As Shanghai’s only water park, Dino Beach has the distinction of being one of the city’s top summer destinations. The park boasts a huge wave pool (apparently Asia’s largest), numerous water slides, kiddie pools, concession stands serving Western fast food fare, and a highly relaxing lazy river flowing around the facility’s perimeter. Weekends during the summer can get very busy, but midweek discounts coupled with lower turnout can make for a very enjoyable experience. Don’t forget your sunscreen!” (Source - www.smartshanghai.com)
The summers in Shanghai can be unbearably hot to those accustomed to northern climes. Escaping with the family to one of Shanghai’s water parks offers enjoyable respite.
Escaping the heat at Dino Beach
Shanghai Discovery Children's Museum 330 Yangqu Lu 3606 0832 “An interactive children’s play land at the Shanghai Discovery Children’s Museum including a climbing tree house, a kid’s supermarket area, children’s hospital exhibit and a submarine room. RMB 20 per person (adults and children).” (Source - www.cityweekend.com)
171 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Activities Shanghai Ocean Aquarium 158 Yincheng Bei Lu, Pudong 5877 9988 “Shanghai’s newest, biggest and best aquarium – and Asia’s largest – opened in 2002 in Pudong, next to the Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Its state-of-the-art facilities boast 28 exhibit areas for more than 10,000 sea creatures from all continents: sharks, jellyfish, turtles, lionfish, sea otters, Yangtze sturgeon and more. The centrepiece is the massive, sparkling USD 6.6-million glasssurround observation tunnel. For adventurous people, special arrangements can be made to dive in the shark tank.” (Source - www.frommers.com)
Shanghai Ocean Aquarium’s underwater tunnels are reputed to be the longest in the world, measuring 168 metres.
Glass observation tunnels offer an enchanting experience.
172 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Activities Shanghai Wild Animal Park 178 Nanliu Gong Lu, Nanhui District, Pudong 5803 6000 “Shanghai’s only drive-through safari, home to some 5,000 animals (200 species), is located all the way out by Pudong International Airport. At least the South China tigers, lions, cheetahs, zebras, giraffes, camels, bears, elephants, hippos and flamingos have more legroom here than in Shanghai Zoo. Buses transport visitors through the grounds and there’s also a walkthrough area with birds, monkeys, seals and sea lions.” (Source- www. frommers.com)
Though China’s zoos and wildlife parks do not have a good reputation according to international animal rights groups, conditions have been improving.
REALITY CHECK Shanghai’s Wildlife Park cancelled its Animal Olympics in 2006, which was to include kangaroo boxing and bear fights.
A Giant Panda mother and her cubs
173 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Activities Shanghai Natural Wild Insect Kingdom 1 Fenghe Lu, near Binjiang Lu and the Pearl Tower 5840 5921 “Creepies and crawlies await at this zoo for bugs. Budding entomologists will ‘eew and ahh’ at the live displays of insects, reptiles, amphibians and even a few monkeys. For an added nocturnal thrill, check out their new night exhibitions, open from 6:30-9:30pm. RMB 40 for adults, RMB 25 for kids.” (Source - www.cityweekend.com)
Check out the comments on www.shanghaiexpat.com to find out more about what visitors think of Shanghai’s attractions.
Shanghai Sculpture Park 1158 Linyin New Rd Sheshan National Holiday Area Songjiang District 5779 8090 Home to more than 30 immense sculptures, the Shanghai Sculpture Park also offers other typical park activities perfect for young children such as a giant tree house, a jumpy dome, a wading pool and a fountain bridge. For the parents there is an art museum and the park also has a decent Cantonese restaurant. Shanghai Zoo 2381 Hongqiao Lu 6268 7775 “One of China’s best, this zoo still has a long way to go to equal the better preserves in the West. It was a private estate of the Sassoon family, then a city golf course, before its conversion to a zoo in 1954. There are plenty of open spaces for children to play, but the spaces for animals are quite
White tigers can be seen at Shanghai Zoo.
174 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Activities confined and depressing. Expect the usual performing seals and elephants. The panda centre, a 20-minute stroll northwest from the entrance, has small indoor and outdoor areas. There are about 6,000 specimens (600 species) here, as well as a children’s zoo and recreation centre with playground equipment and Ferris wheel.” (Source - Frommer’s) Shanghai Children’s Museum 61 Songyuan Lu 6278 3127 “Shanghai Discovery Children’s Museum is the first children’s museum in China specially designed for children aged 2-10 years old. This nonprofit organisation opened in 2004 by two mothers is aimed at enriching children’s lives by providing an exciting and interesting learning environment. Their hands-on, interactive exhibits and educational programmes attract both parents and children who are willing to make learning into a fun interactive process. All instructions are in both English and Chinese.” (Source - www. travelchinaguide.com) Huangpu River Cruise The Bund Taking one of the many cruise boats departing from both the Pudong and Puxi side of the Huangpu is a favorite of many. The spectacular views of the skylines of Shanghai impress visitors whilst children usually love the novelty of taking a boat ride. The cruise is best enjoyed after dark when the lights of Shanghai come on. Generally speaking, there is no need to book ahead of time, simply show up and purchase your tickets.
Children will also enjoy a walk along the Bund where there are caricature artists and many vendors selling toys and novelties for children.
The views from the Huangpu River Cruise are spectacular at night.
175 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
PHOTO BY RICHARD RESTELL
Family Supplement
Withdrawal Symptoms How the Football Fan Gets a Fix in Shanghai
By Mark Angus, Principal, British International School, Nanxiang Campus
I
need to apologise in advance if, at times, a certain sense of unreality creeps into this piece. You see, I am a Fulham fan and the Whites have just had the finest season in their none-too-illustrious 130-year history. Seventh in the Premier League – our highest ever league finish; 53 points – likewise our highest ever points tally; a place in this season’s Europa Cup – our first appearance in a major European tournament (although I still recall our glorious march to victory in the Intertoto Cup a few years back). I am still reeling from the sheer ecstasy of it all. And, of course, I missed the whole thing. Being away from your team for a prolonged period of time is at times a gutwrenching experience for the dedicated follower. It’s not just the matches themselves – it’s the whole ritual that surrounds going to the game. As a superstitious sort of chap, my routine for a home match at Craven Cottage was almost always the same – leave home at the same time, same greasy spoon for lunch, same artery-hardening fry-up for sustenance. As a season ticket holder, you always saw the same people at each game, had the same banter, complained about the ineptitude of the same players, the manager’s substitutions and so on. Then the same pub afterwards for the post-mortem.
178 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Supplement
I know that for many people living in Shanghai, this is the hardest thing to be without. Yes, you miss your family, your friends, of course, but deep down, the thing that you find it almost impossible to admit – even to yourself – is that what you miss most of all is going to the match. But it needn’t be so. We have Shanghai Shenhua. The Chinese Super League attracts an enormous amount of criticism – often, in my experience, from people who haven’t been to a game in years, if at all. The poor standard of play. The charges of corruption. The second-rate foreigners that every team possesses. There may be some truth in all of these accusations, yet somehow, to me, none of that matters. We have a team – a pretty good team – and I would urge all expats in Shanghai to channel their yearning for live action towards Shenhua. The Super League season is something of a moveable feast, but in principle it runs from March until November, with a summer lay-off during July. There are 16 teams in the league, from all over China, who play each other home and away in a 30-match season. In addition to one up, one down promotion and relegation, the top four each
179 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Supplement season qualify for the Asian Champions’ League. Shanghai Shenhua play almost all of their home games at the very attractive, custom-built and easily accessible Hongkou Stadium in northern Shanghai (Hongkou Football Stadium Station on Metro lines 3 and 8, while numerous buses stop right outside the stadium), although occasionally games are at Yuanshen Stadium in Pudong (Yuanshen Stadium Station, Metro line 6). This season has seen the introduction of Friday night games, although the majority take place on Saturday or Sunday, with both afternoon and evening kick-off times. There is also the occasional Super League midweek fixture, while Champions’ League games take place on Tuesday or Wednesday evenings at 8pm. Prices are extremely low, especially for anyone used to paying English Premier League admission charges. A season ticket (15 home games) costs around RMB 300, while tickets for individual games can usually be picked up for RMB 30 around the stadium before the game.
“There is much singing, beating of drums, the occasional flare or firework and a pretty passionate atmosphere.”
The atmosphere at home games is pretty good, with boisterous sets of fans – the Blue Devils and the Blue Boys – behind each goal. There is much singing, beating of drums, the occasional flare or firework and a pretty passionate atmosphere throughout. However, crowds are disappointingly small in a city of Shanghai’s size – about 20,000 for a big match but around 10,000 on average. The sides are worth watching though. Last season, Shenhua had the chance to win the title and but for a missed penalty in the last game of the season (by Hamilton Ricard, formerly of Middlesbrough and now, thankfully, moved on) would have been champions. However, second place saw Shenhua make it into the group stages of this year’s Asian Champions’ League, although, after a reasonably promising start, that campaign has now sadly ended, Shenhua finishing third in their group behind Kashima Antlers (Japan) and Suwong Bluewings (Korea). The side is captained by the redoubtable Du Wei, the former national captain, and, particularly at home, has been playing a quick, counter-attacking brand of football. The Australian defender Mark Milligan has been a good buy, quickly becoming a crowd favourite (particularly for his long throws), while other foreign nationals in the
180 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Family Supplement side include the Bulgarian defender Yanko Valkanov, Vyatcheslav Hleb of Belarus (brother of the former Arsenal player), Argentina’s Henan Barcos and Aleksandar Rodic of Slovenia up front (although the most dangerous striker this year has undoubtedly been Mao Jianqing). The Shanghai Shenhua official website (www. shenhuafc.com.cn) is in Chinese, but fixtures are listed on the left hand side of the homepage and the dates and times of fixtures are easy to work out, even if you don’t read Chinese. (It is worth your while to check the website fairly regularly as fixture times – and even locations – can be changed with little or no notice. I am ashamed to admit that I have twice turned up expecting games to be taking place, only to find they had been moved. Much face loss!) You could also try calling Shanghai Call Centre (962 288) for updates about the time and location of matches. However, there is also a very user-friendly English-language website that lists fixtures, scores and league tables – www.soccerway.com/national/china-pr/superleague/2009/regular-season. Super League games are also shown each week live on CCTV5. So while there is ESPN (sometimes) and Star Sports (sometimes) and even Ben Sports (rarely, these days) to help you keep in touch with your team at home, no amount of watching games on television can compare to the real matchday experience of watching a game live. So if you haven’t done so yet, go to a game at Hongkou the next time Shanghai Shenhua are at home (although be careful mentioning this fact to Chinese friends – they will simply ask you why, and then give you a long lecture on why Chinese football is rubbish). Despite the fact that they play in a shade of blue that is uncomfortably close to that worn by Chelsea, I have found a second home at Shenhua (although nothing could ever replace the Cottage in my affections) and am enjoying immensely my regular fix.
181 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Shanghai, China
Education and learning has always been our focus and our area of expertise. Our people and the people we work with all have a good understanding of what this means to us. We aim to provide students with the opportunity to be the best they can be.
helpi ng oth
hers thrive www.bisshanghai.com
Getting Involved
There is no shortage of need for volunteers for charity groups in Shanghai. If you get involved you will be greatly appreciated.
I
t’s never too early or too late to get involved with expat volunteer or social groups. Everybody was new in Shanghai once and a spirit of inclusion and support suffuses most organisations and clubs. The Shanghai expat community is very active in organising events for compatriots, fellow mothers and those interested in meeting people while lending a helping hand. There are several benefits to contacting these organisations and attending events. Besides meeting new people with similar interests, getting involved provides an opportunity to explore and get to know your new home.
Getting Involved
Hands On Shanghai www.handsonshanghai.org Founded by expat professionals in 2004, Hands On Shanghai (HOS) matches expat volunteers with local NGOs who need their help. HOS works with a broad range of NGOs, allowing them to organise flexible volunteer programs for busy professionals and parents. Depending on your expertise or interests, HOS can arrange volunteer opportunities with organisations that work in the areas of children’s health, education, elderly care, environmental protection and facility upkeep. HOS also supports local community organisations with direct donations, fundraising planning and execution and project implementation. Shanghai Volunteer Association Charity Service Corps www.shanghaicharityfoundation.org/volunteer The Shanghai Volunteer Association Charity Service Corps (The Charity Service Corps) welcomes enthusiastic, outgoing long-term and short-term volunteers for over a dozen running projects that help the poor, the elderly, children and disabled people. Shanghai Expat Volunteer Programme www.shanghaiexpat.com The popular website frequently has interesting and fun volunteer positions open for content contributors, event photographers, event coordinators and office support. Also, if you have any performance skills, chances are that Shanghai Expat can arrange a stage for you. Volunteer opportunities with
184 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Getting Involved Shanghai Expat are a great way to meet active people. Heart to Heart Shanghai www.heart2heartshanghai.net/h2h/becomeavolunteer.cfm Volunteers for Heart to Heart Shanghai participate in children's play activities at the Shanghai Chest Hospital in Puxi, the Shanghai Children's Medical Centre (SCMC) in Pudong and the Wuxi People's Hospital. Play sessions are conducted from 2-3.30pm. No experience or Chinese-language skills are required. The Royal Asiatic Society www.royalasiaticsociety.org.cn The Society hosts cultural and literary events, as well as activities such as walks and tours for expats. Events are generally well-attended by expats interested in history and culture. CereCare Wellness Centre Shanghai www.cerecare.net A residential facility for young people suffering from cerebral palsy, CereCare needs financial support and volunteers to spend time with the children. Second Chance Animal Aid Shanghai www.scaashanghai.org Run primarily by expats, SCAA cares for abandoned animals in Shanghai and facilitates their adoption. Brits Abroad Shanghai www.britsabroadshanghai.com Brits Abroad Shanghai is very active, organising several events each month to bring expats together for meals and city tours. Some events, such as the wet market tour, are particularly helpful for newly-arrived residents. American Women’s Club of Shanghai www.awcshanghai.org AWCS is a non-profit social club whose focal point is providing American women in Shanghai with a foundation that assists them in adjusting to and living in a new environment. Australian Women’s Social Group Shanghai. www.awsg.org AWSG is an active focal point for Australians interested in networking, attending social events, volunteering activities and playgroups for children.
Getting involved is an excellent way to learn more about China and Shanghai. The British International School and its Parents and Friends Association work with local schools in impoverished parts of China, helping others thrive.
185 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
2010 World Expo
The scale of construction at the Shanghai World Expo site is hard to believe unless you see it for yourself.
The Chinese Pavillion under construction
B
eijing impressed the world by grandly hosting the 2008 Olympics. In doing so, it became the model and symbol of the new China. To many, the impressive showing by Beijing in 2008 marked the opening of the Chinese Century. Shanghai anticipated this, and soon after Beijing was awarded the 2008 Olympic games in 2001, Shanghai was vying for the World Expo 2010. In December 2002, Shanghai beat out four other cities to host the Expo, which will launch on 1 May 2010 and run until 31 October, during which time it is expected to draw over 70 million visitors. If you are relocating to Shanghai anytime in 2010, the Expo will be part of your life, one way or another.
World Expo 2010
This being Shanghai, the preparations for the exhibition have radically and ambitiously changed the face of the city. The scale of construction is unprecedented. Old industrial areas along the Huangpu River are being rebuilt and remodeled beyond recognition. Cutting-edge performance spaces, hotels, pavilions and even a giant rollercoaster are replacing houses and factories. Near Hongqiao, the city is putting up the world’s largest transportation hub to move visitors in and out of the city. Entire new self-sustainable developments are springing up just outside the city to showcase the exposition’s green theme of “Better city, better life”. These developments are a bit ironic, given the amount of energy being expended in their production. Apart from these giant projects, new
186 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
2010 World Expo hotels, housing, overpasses and Metro stops are being constructed at a furious pace. The Expo will present both opportunities and annoyances for new residents. The cultural pavilions from all over the world will no doubt be impressive. Tagged as the ‘Business Olympics’, the Expo will draw representatives from all the Chinese provinces, who will be using their displays to encourage international investment. Many foreign nations are investing heavily in their pavilions. The British Pavilion, designed by Heatherwick Studio at a cost of GBP 12 million, will be a feature on the east bank of the river. Officials are hoping to draw 50,000 visitors a day. On the downside, the sheer volume of people will present huge challenges when it comes to access, pollution and congestion. The intense summer heat could cause heatstroke in crowded, concrete areas. Despite efforts to improve air quality – the city is moving factories out of town and enforcing EU-standard emission controls – Shanghai is far from being clean and clear. Expect restaurants and cafés to be crowded. Avoid the primary Expo areas along the Huangpu River on swelteringly hot days and if you need to book a hotel room do so well in advance. Tickets for the Expo are already on sale, priced around RMB 160. Given this relatively steep price, many residents question if – and how – the Expo will benefit them. The city has now spent over nine years and billions of dollars on infrastructure, architecture and environmental development. The Shanghai World Expo 2010 will change the face of the city for the next century. What has been taken down will not be rebuilt. Time will tell if the new face of the city stands the test of time as well as the old one.
Haibao at the Rose Bowl Parade 2010
You’ll see this blue fellow all over Shanghai. Haibao, as he’s called, is meant to resemble the Chinese character ren (people). All his features have significance, even the Elvis Presley quiff, which is actually meant to signify an “open character and birthplace”. On the other hand, to many American viewers Haibao looks quite similar to cartoon character Gumby. Haibao is on buildings and merchandise throughout the city and also comes in the form of bushes in parks and lights on buildings.
187 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods
S
hanghai is an incredibly diverse city with a wide variety of options for living. If you are coming to Shanghai with a family you may prefer living in the suburbs where life is quieter. If you crave living near the action you may choose to live downtown. There are also options that will give you the best of both worlds. The following section should help you begin the decision making process.
Shanghai Neighbourhoods
Former French Concession
S
There are many historic buildings in the former French Concession. There is perhaps nowhere else in Shanghai where you can feel the history in quite the same way.
hanghai's former French Concession is defined by tree-lined streets, quiet neighbourhoods, European-style housing and a central location. The attractive area includes many of the city's historic buildings and is the first choice for many foreigners, housing almost one third of Shanghai’s expat population. Most of the buildings that define the area today were built with European money in the 1920s-40s. The vibe is international, blending European influence with Chinese living habits. Broadly speaking, the most interesting part of the former French Concession for visitors is the area on either side of Huaihai Lu, though the area ranges from Zhaojiabang Lu to its south up to the Yan’an Lu Elevated Highway to its north. Huaihai Lu is now a major shopping street running east to west, with plenty of brand names but little character. Housing Gorgeous historic apartments, lane houses and garden homes line beautiful streets like Wukang Lu, Hunan Lu, Gaoyou Lu and Jinxian Lu. Because of the area’s popularity, rental prices for colonial properties from the twenties and thirties have been rising steadily. For two-bedroom renovated apartments, expect rents to start at RMB 25,000. The lane houses and garden homes here represent the highest downtown rents, from RMB 50,000 and up. Health Care With its central location, people in the former French Concession have a lot of quality health care options. The New Pioneer Medical Centre on 910 Hengshan Lu has a foreign-friendly medical and maternity clinic, as does Ruijin Hospital on 197 Ruijin Er Lu. Huashan Hospital on 2 Wulumuqi Zhong Lu has a 24-hour foreign clinic on the 19th floor. The Sino-American OB-GYN clinic (www.americanobgyn.com) is on the 14th floor of Huashan Hospital, and the out-patient facility is a few blocks away on 800 Huashan Lu.
188 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Positives There are many positives to living in the former French Concession. First and foremost is its mix of European and Chinese charm. The architecture and housing is varied and interesting. There are an endless number of nice coffee houses, restaurants and boutiques, and it’s an easy area in which to meet expats and enjoy a truly cosmopolitan international neighbourhood. Expats generally buy food at wet markets or at one of the City Shops and there are trendy bars throughout the area. Negatives Traffic can be an annoyance. The streets of the former French Concession were not designed for modern Shanghai traffic. There are a few Metro line 1 stops in the area, although most people depend on cars and taxis here. The international schools are a long commute.
Xuhui
X
uhui is a booming area that is increasingly popular with expats. Its heart is Xujiahui, which is essentially a cluster of large shopping malls. The area spreads out from there, housing foreigners attracted to the shopping and transportation conveniences. The northwest area includes some of the city’s best preserved lane houses and garden villas. The southern part of Xuihui is a newer neighbourhood with wide streets, high-rise apartment complexes and lots of neon lights. Housing The areas outside of Xujiahui mostly consist of older apartment buildings, although there are newer developments off Nandan Lu. Expect lower rents in older housing complexes, starting from RMB 7,000. Foreigners pay around RMB 12-15,000 for a decent three-bedroom flat in a centrally located high-rise. In the southern end of the area on the other end of Shanghai Stadium, housing is cheap but often in poorer condition.
The area around Grand Gateway in Xujiahui can be a nightmare for getting a taxi - particularly around 6PM.
Health Care Expats in Xuhui can go to the New Pioneer Medical Centre or the International Peach Maternity Hospital, both in the Gure Building on 910 Hengshan Lu. There’s also convenient access to the adjacent former French Concession or nearby Jing’an for healthcare facilities. Positives The biggest draws in Xuhui are the shopping and access to the Metro. A few of the biggest malls in Shanghai are just above Metro line 1: Grand Gateway, the Oriental Department Store and Metro City. There’s also access to Metro lines 3 and 4, making for a quick commute to northern Puxi
189 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods and Pudong. There are plenty of Chinese and Western restaurants inside the malls and on the surrounding streets. Negatives The area is somewhat crowded and noisy, even once you leave Xujiahui. Despite its relatively central location, Xuhui lacks a vibrant nightlife for foreigners, although a few new spots are popping up as the area becomes more popular.
Luwan / Xintiandi
N
For business people working in the downtown area, living in proximity to Xintiandi is a good choice as food and fun are all located in one place.
estled in the western part of the former French Concession, Luwan District is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Shanghai and retains much of its original architecture. Xintiandi, in the eastern half of the district, offers lively and cosmopolitan downtown living, with some of the city’s best shopping, entertainment and dining. The central location, tree-lined streets and elegant promenades make Luwan very appealing to expats. On the downside, rents are high and open green space is limited to a couple of botanical parks. The Luwan area described here runs from the Chengdu Lu Elevated Highway in the west to Xizang Lu in the east, with the Xintiandi complex at its centre. The lifeline of Luwan is Huaihai Lu, renowned for both its boutiques and department stores. Shanghai residents pack the streets on weekends to window shop and people-watch. Housing Luwan’s housing options are varied: new high-rises, a few old houses, older art-deco buildings near Huaihai Lu and exclusive complexes surrounding trendy Xintiandi. The southern part of the district still has old Chinese housing complexes, although old communities are being flattened to make room for newer high-rises. The closer you are to Xintiandi, the higher the rent. Rent varies greatly, but generally expect to pay anywhere from RMB 1540,000. Health Care World Link Medical Center has a Specialty and Inpatient Care Center on Danshui Lu (right next to Xintiandi). Huashan Hospital (19th floor) at 2 Wulumuqi Zhong Lu, in neighbouring Jing’an, has an expat clinic on the 8th floor. The CanAm International Medical Center Shanghai at 966 Huaihai Zhong Lu and the Guangci Memorial Hospital (Ruijin Hospital Foreigners’ Clinic) at 197 Ruijin Er Lu are also convenient for expats in Luwan. Positives Living in Luwan is a mixed bag, with glaring positives and negatives. On the plus side, Luwan contains Shanghai’s most interesting architecture and
190 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods arguably the best shopping and nightlife in the city. Although traffic is congested in Luwan, Metro line 1 runs through the district and connects with several other lines at nearby People’s Square. For childless expats wanting to live it up, Luwan could be ideal. On the other hand, families face many inconveniences. Negatives Luwan is a very safe area, although the tourist sites attract street vendors and a few pickpockets. The call of “watch, bag, shoes” is an all-too-familiar greeting for the foreigners who choose to live in this downtown area. The international schools are far from Luwan, and retail shopping overwhelms supermarkets.
Jing’an
C
entral Jing’an is a primary business and entertainment district. The area runs from the Yan’an highway in the south up to Changping Lu in the north and stretches to Zhengning Lu in the west and to the elevated NS Chengdu Lu highway in the east. This downtown district includes dense residential areas, high-end business and shopping centres, several bar streets and access to the city’s major Metro and bus lines. In short, this neighbourhood is extremely convenient, yet extremely busy and crowded. Housing Central Jing’an has fewer residential options than other areas and neighbourhoods tend to maintain a hectic pace – even late into the evening. Most expats live in modern high-rise complexes with doormen. These new, multi-room apartments begin at about RMB 8,000 per month. The remainder of central Jing’an is home to older Chinese residential neighbourhoods which increase in density as you move north toward Suzhou creek. Accommodation is cheaper than in the complexes mentioned above and foreigner-friendly, with 24-hour security and convenient access to Western supermarkets. Colonial buildings from the former British Concession are found in the western half of the area.
Jing’an offers the complete downtown package. Shopping, eating, drinking and transport are all supplied in abundance here.
Health Care World Link has a medical and dental facility in the Shanghai Centre on 1376 Nanjing Lu. A quick walk over Yan’an Lu to the former French Concession area brings central Jing’an residents to Huashan Hospital on 2 Wulumuqi Zhong Lu, which has a 24-hour foreign clinic on the 19th floor. The SinoAmerican OB-GYN clinic is on the 14th floor of Huashan Hospital. Positives Residents praise Jing’an for its convenient access to public transportation,
191 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods including Metro line 2, buses and abundant taxis, and close proximity to the former French Concession, the Bund and Pudong driving tunnels. Jing’an is popular among young expats who enjoy a busy nightlife scene and professionals who value convenience. Negatives If you have children, there are the issues of crowded streets and lack of green space. Additionally, the international schools in Hongqiao are a substantial commute away.
Hongqiao
H Hongqiao is attractive to people who don’t want the intensity of downtown living but at the same time want to be within arm’s reach of the action.
ongqiao has evolved from a far-flung industrial zone into a lively and convenient suburban community, renowned for its luxurious villa compounds with gardens, pools and tennis courts. Located in Changning District, east of Beihong Lu and Hongxu Lu, it is an extremely popular place for expats and emerging Chinese middle-class families. As the main thoroughfare, Hongqiao Lu connects travellers from the airport to downtown every day. City planners have pegged the greater Hongqiao area as Shanghai’s third principle urban centre, along with the districts on either side of the Huangpu River. The Hongqiao transportation hub, to be completed by mid-2010, will be the core of a massive new power centre that will serve as the city’s gateway to the Yangtze River Delta region and beyond. Accommodation Large self-contained villa communities dominate Hongqiao’s housing market. These expansive villas offer private gardens and well-equipped facilities with pools, sports facilities and community activities. Many of these complexes are within walking distance or a short drive from shopping centres, cafés and clinics. Although rents are higher here than in other suburban areas like Minhang or Qingpu, families receive a lot more floor and green space for their money than in downtown areas. Expect villa rents to start from RMB 30,000. High-end apartments can be found from RMB 18,000. Health Care There are several quality health care facilities in Hongqiao, including a World Link medical and dental branch on 2258 Hongqiao Lu, the Hongqiao Clinic in Mandarine City on 788 Hongxu Lu, the Sun-Tec Medical Center on 2281 Hongqiao Lu and the Shanghai United Family Hospital, which offers 24-hour care. Positives Almost everything you need is a short ride away in Hongqiao. There’s Carrefour in Gubei on 268 Shuicheng Nan Lu, and Hongqiao also has many
192 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods of its own Western markets, like City Supermarket on 3211 Hongmei Lu, as well as bakeries and international clothing stores. The pedestrian section of Hongmei Lu in Hongqiao has developed into a popular restaurant and bar street among expats. Negatives For now, most residents depend on cars and taxis. However, the city plans to open a Metro stop at Hongqiao Railway Station by mid-2010. Commutes into the city are simple enough, thanks to easy access to the Yan’an Lu Elevated highway. Simple doesn’t mean fast, however, as rides downtown can take more than an hour during rush hour. Large construction and development projects can be an annoyance if you live near them or if they interfere with your commute.
Gubei New Area
L
ocated in Changning District, east of Hongqiao, Gubei New Area is a thriving mini-metropolis dominated by high-rise towers and interspersed with small green areas and modern conveniences. The area tends to cater to Asian expats, specifically Korean and Japanese. However the residential area is a convenient option for any expat family with offices downtown and children in Hongqiao schools. Accommodation Unlike in neighbouring Hongqiao, there are few villas in Gubei. The most common form of expat housing comes in the form of high-rise apartment complexes. Rent is cheaper in this pocket of the suburbs – expect a big range, from RMB 4-8,000, for comfortable apartment flats. The few highend options are within larger gated complexes, usually with Europeaninspired names like Vienna Plaza and Marseilles Mansion. Rents there will be several times higher.
Koreans make up a significant percentage of the expat population in Shanghai and most of them can be found in Gubei or Longbai to the west.
Health Care It’s a short drive to many of the international medical facilities in Hongqiao. The new Mandarine City Medical Center at 788 Hongxu Lu, run by ParkwayHealth, is a convenient option. Positives Right off the Yan’an Lu Elevated Highway, Gubei is a straight shot into the city and Metro line 3 has a stop on Hongqiao Lu. The rents are cheaper than downtown, yet it has many of the shopping conveniences. The city’s largest Carrefour on 268 Shuicheng Nan Lu is the focal point of Gubei’s busy shopping area. Home supplies and speciality foods can easily be found in shops. For daytime activities, the area around Gubei Lu has yoga studios,
193 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods massage parlours and spas. Negatives Some expats find life among rows of high-rises a bit drab. If you want a lot of interesting street activity, this is not the right neighbourhood. The housing also lacks the green spaces of many compounds in more far-flung suburban areas. Despite its proximity to the Yan’an Lu Elevated Highway, traffic congestion can be an annoyance during rush hours.
Kangqiao
K
angqiao is an established development on Pudong’s south side, built to accompany nearby international schools and local industry. The area is still developing its expat infrastructure and is looking to grow rapidly in the coming years due to its ideal location across the river from Puxi and proximity to central Pudong. Most of the housing exists within gated communities.
Kangqiao’s proximity to the planned Disney amusement park will surely make it an expat favourite.
Housing Based on plenty of practice in built-up areas like Hongqiao and Jinqiao, property developers offer new and improved villas in Kangqiao. Look for rents in the RMB 30,000-up range for villa property. Smaller townhouses in developments like Oasis Villas are cheaper than in other suburban areas, with rents from RMB 20-40,000. Some accommodation looks out on the nearby industrial parks, which makes for an unattractive skyline. Health Care Kangqiao is near the medical facilities of Lujiazui and Jinqiao. Positives The zone enjoys an excellent geographic location, with Nanpu Bridge only 8 km away and People’s Square 10 km away. Because the area is newly planned, it offers plenty of green space. Parking is not a problem and traffic generally moves freely. Negatives The area is still developing, with limited facilities for Western-style dining, and residents usually like to travel to Jinqiao, Lujiazui or over the Nanpu Bridge to the Bund for dining and entertainment.
Lujiazui
P
udong’s business and financial centre and the district’s most developed area, Lujiazui covers the eastern bank of the Huangpu River. Lujiazui’s showpiece futuristic skyline is made of high-end business centres and fivestar hotels. A few years ago the landscape was barren of housing, but that’s
194 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods changing. The area is welcoming more up-scale apartment complexes that attract young Chinese and expat professionals. New shops, restaurants and bars are popping up to accommodate the new wave of people moving into Lujiazui. In many ways, Lujiazui is an ideal neighbourhood for people working in Pudong or downtown Puxi who don’t mind living in a forest of shiny high-rises. Housing Lujiazui housing is dominated by new high-end apartments in large property developments popular with singles and couples. They usually include 24hour security, pools, gyms and parking. Rents start at RMB 8,000. Familysized apartments are usually privately owned and rent ranges from RMB 15-60,000. While there are very few villas worth mentioning in the Lujiazui area, the major apartment complexes such as Shimao Riviera, Yanlord Garden and Champs Elysees offer large two-storey apartments which some families find ideal. Health Care The Shanghai East International Medical Center on Pudong Da Dao offers out-patient and in-patient medical care for expats. A modern dental clinic, Care Dental, is on the seventh floor of Super Brand Mall. Alternatively, residents of Lujiazui can travel to any of the clinics in neighbouring Jinqiao for treatment.
Most who live in Pudong love it due to the lack of traffic congestion and seemingly fresher air.
Positives Lujiazui is popular with young professionals and singles. It’s an exciting place to live, with dozens of futuristic skyscrapers and world-class hotels offering spectacular views while you sip an expensive martini. There are a growing number of excellent restaurants and bars, especially along the ‘other Bund’ facing the real Bund on the river, and it’s easy to get across the river to People’s Square on Metro line 2. Driving is relatively stress-free, unless you’re trying to get across to Puxi during peak hours. Negatives Unlike neighbouring Kangqiao and Jinqiao, Lujiazui was not designed for expat families. There’s not much open green space, and housing consists primarily of towers. However, it’s much more lively than the other expat areas and, with the Metro, it’s easy enough to get over to Puxi.
195 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Huacao
S
hanghai’s newest expat zone is poised to be the next Jinqiao. Situated only 15-20 minutes from Hongqiao, Huacao is home to some of Shanghai’s most famous expat residences including the Shanghai Racquet Club and Forest Manor. The pace of development in this area is staggering with shopping malls, a world class medical facility and more luxury compounds currently under construction. Huacao is also near the heart of what will be the world’s largest transportation hub, meaning that getting into, out of and around Shanghai will be be extremely convenient in the near future. Huacao benefits from not being separated from downtown by water and thus the bridges of Shanghai, which often serve as choke points for traffic.
Now is a good time to move to Huacao as once the development is completed the rents are sure to go up.
Housing There is no shortage of housing in the Huacao area. Expat favourites such as the Shanghai Racquet Club, Forest Manor and Rancho Santa Fe are all located there. Upper mid-level options such as Westwood Green and The Stratford also offer expats excellent choices that will fit into their budget. All of these compounds are within walking distance of The British International
Forest Manor Villas in Huacao
196 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods School, which is situated in the centre of Huacao. Health Care Huacao has health clinics that cater to the expat population and it is a short ride to the hospitals located in Hongqiao, which are world class medical facilities. Positives Huacao has many positives, such as the proximity to international schools, the quiet and safe streets and the excellent accommodation. When the transportation hub is completed in spring 2010, this area will be the most connected place in the world. A subway stop is under construction in the vicinity and the Maglev will be extended nearby at Hongqiao International Airport. Negatives Until spring 2010, the area will see much construction and this has slowed travel times to downtown.
Traffic patterns are an important consideration if you are choosing to move to a suburban area. If you are visitng an area in which you want to live duing off hours, you will not be fully aware of how bad the traffic can be during rush hour.
197 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Nanxiang
N
anxiang is the newest area of Shanghai to develop luxury accommodation. Located only 25 minutes northwest of Jing’an Temple, Nanxiang offers a convenient alternative to those wanting to get away from the hustle and bustle of downtown. With a recently opened subway stop, a Carrefour and a British International School, the area is well on its way to seeing a huge influx of expats in the coming years. Housing The expansive Greenworld luxury development sits at the heart of Nanxiang. With the newly opened Metro station, Carrefour and The British International School on its doorstep, Greenworld is an excellent option for families looking for the suburban life within reach of downtown. Health Care Situated only 20 minutes from Hongqiao, residents of Nanxiang are always within reach of excellent medical care.
Greenworld has facilities to rival any in Shanghai.
198 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods
The British International School next door to Greenworld Villas in Nanxiang
Positives The most positive aspect of living in Nanxiang, aside from the luxury accommodation and proximity to international education and expat services, is its location relative to downtown. Due to prevailing traffic patterns, getting in and out of Nanxiang happens quickly. With the addition of the Metro, Nanxiang is one of the best connected suburbs of Shanghai. Negatives Nanxiang is still developing as an expat area. Though the services exist, and more foreigners are moving in every day, Nanxiang continues to have a local feel.
Carrefour is also on the Greenworld development
199 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
200 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
CONSIDER HUACAO By Karen Jones, Admissions Officer THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SHANGHAI, PUXI
O
h, my gosh – you’re moving to Shanghai! How will you manage family life? Education? Health care? Your career? And where will you live? Will your family be happy there?
You’re thrilled and excited, thinking and talking about the move with family and friends, but inside you’re worried and apprehensive. Can you really do this? How will you manage? These are the natural emotions encountered in relocating to a teeming megatropolis like Shanghai, in a country which you may never have visited before. These are feelings which I remember, too! But after more than seven years in Shanghai they are fond thoughts that make me smile. As a British-born Canadian expat and mother to four boys, I’d like to share my experiences and offer some insights and comfort about your new home in China’s most exciting city.
201 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
S
Shanghai has an enormous population, over 20 million people. Don’t be intimidated! It’s an extremely safe city with an amazingly low crime rate by Western standards. The police are unarmed, and citizens are highly proactive in supporting positive behaviour. Children, to Chinese peo-
ple, are special little treasures. From my own experience, our youngest son has injured himself twice while playing outdoors. On both occasions, Chinese passers-by immediately stopped to offer aid, and on one occasion a drive to the nearest clinic. In downtown Shanghai, there’s tremendous hustle, bustle and excitement. Like any other big city, on first arrival it can appear insensitive. But appearances are deceiving. In essence, Shanghai is a city comprising thousands of neighbourhoods, each with its own character and flavour. In the Chinese family-centred way of life, no one lives more than 500 metres away from their local wet market or a place to buy groceries and tasty delicacies. In other words, Shanghai’s residential neighbourhoods are very similar in their social order, whether you’re in a built-up area or a less crowded suburb. Within a short time, people will be recognising and acknowledging you with a smile or a nod, and within weeks you’ll be seeing friendly and familiar faces in your local neighbourhood. Keep a positive attitude – it’s an important asset. When my family relocated, we chose to live in one such neighbourhood in the western suburbs of the city, Huacao Town, in Minhang District. For my family, it turned out to be the perfect choice!
202 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
Family life Seen as the green area of the city, Huacao is a very pleasant blend of expats and locals. Chinese people, especially the young, are incredibly excited about the growth and development of their country, city and their local communities, and Huacao is a prime example of community development. In the immediate Huacao area there are seven international schools and a number of kindergartens, resulting in the appearance of many Westernstyle property developments. Your eventual home will probably have many of the amenities you’re accustomed to. The management office of your property development can be especially helpful in getting you settled in. In each development, whether it’s made up of free-standing units, townhouses or apartment complexes, there are children’s playgrounds, tennis and/or basketball courts, sports rooms in the clubhouse and other facilities where children can go and play and meet kids their own age. When you first arrive, accompanying your children is a good way to get to meet your new neighbours. The area also has many foreign eateries, entertainment and shopping locales where you’ll easily meet other expat residents and make some Chinese friends, too.
Education As mentioned, there are seven international schools within the immediate area of Huacao Town. None is more than 15 or 20 minutes drive from home. The real blessing of attending a school like the British International School, aside from curriculum, staff and facilities, is the strong support offered to students whose native language is not English. In the school environment, my son attends Year 6 classes with children from more than 40 countries. It’s an amazingly rewarding experience for him, as he’s quickly become more aware of the world around him in ways I never thought possible. As a little aside, my son plays daily after school with friends from England, America, Belgium, Malaysia, Korea and Singapore. I recall two years ago, he brought home a Swedish boy about his own age from another school. Not being able to talk to one other in their mother tongues, they settled on Chinese and had a wonderful time together! It’s these moments in your child’s development that makes the adjustment so worthwhile. I routinely see children acquire new confidence and exhibit excellent social skills in meeting all manner of friends from around the world.
203 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
Health care As a native of the British Isles and subsequently a resident of Canada for 22 years, I’ve had the benefit of sophisticated and mature National Health Care Plans. However, as a foreigner living in Shanghai, I’ve experienced immediate availability and delivery of health care services. You’ll have the choice of private or public hospitals that cater exclusively to foreign passport holders – some offering superlative care. The private hospitals operated by overseas business enterprises can be extremely expensive. The local hospitals with ‘foreign resident facilities’ are much less expensive but just as well
equipped and competent. In Huacao Town, we’re extremely fortunate that the government has announced the opening of an International Health Care Centre, to be completed by the end of 2011. It will be outfitted with state-of-the-art equipment and with the best doctors recruited within China. It is destined to become one of the best health care destinations in Shanghai. Even before it opens, comprehensive health care, including ophthalmology and dentistry, will not be a concern for you. Career Whether the primary wage earner
204 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
is you or your spouse, in most situations Huacao Town is the best choice for combining home life with career needs. To understand this part, you’ll need to explore a bit of Shanghai’s geography. Shanghai, of course, is a famous ocean port. However, the city itself is cut in half by the Huangpu River. If you live in Pudong, east of the river, you’re in a recently developed area that primarily caters to the financial services industry. The west side of the river, Puxi, is the mainland side, with transportation links into the commercial and manufacturing bases of the Yangtze River Delta (principally comprising Shanghai and the provinces of Jiangsu and Zhejiang). To further support the development of commerce in the Yangtze River
“Like any other big city, on first arrival it can appear insensitive. But appearances are deceiving” Delta, the government is building the New Greater Hongqiao National Transportation Hub adjacent to Huacao Town. This hub will be on the expanded grounds of Hongqiao Airport, Shanghai’s mainly domestic airport. From May, it will operate more
international flights. Only 15-20 minutes from Huacao, it’s hugely convenient compared to the 2-hour drive to Pudong International Airport on the other side of the river. It will also be home to China’s new high-speed rail network. Travelling at 392 km/hour, new trains will cut the travel time to Beijing from 12 hours to less than 5! Eventually, high-speed trains leaving from Huacao will service all China’s major cities. The new transport hub and Huacao will also be connected to Shanghai’s subway system, with two line extensions into the community. WHERE WILL I LIVE? This is the most important consideration when making the move to Shanghai. You should focus on the balance of family life, education, health care and career. After my years of travelling throughout Shanghai, I highly recommend considering Huacao Town as the ideal choice in meeting your family’s needs. Should you have any further questions or be in need of advice or more information, please feel free to drop me a line! You can contact Karen Jones at enquiries@bisspuxi.com
205 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
206 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
KANGQIAO
T
DISTRICT
he British International School, Pudong is at the heart of Shanghai. Geographically Kangqiao may seem to be outside the central hub, but the campus is strategically placed for easy access to everything an expat requires. Travel time to Pudong International Airport is 20 minutes; to Hongqiao Airport 40 minutes; to Jinqiao shopping district 15 minutes; to downtown 20 minutes; and to Lujiazui, the financial zone, 25 to 30 minutes.
While Pudong may be lacking when it comes to the sort of quaint streets associated with Puxi, living standards are exceptional in terms of the quality of the air and the infrastructure. Modern apartment buildings offer spectacular views of the Bund or Century Park. Alternatively, a wide range of villas and townhouses are available across Pudong. Vast areas of green space are in plentiful supply in Pudong – a large area of ground which will house a large neighbourhood park with water features and walking areas is currently being cleared adjacent to the British International School. New shopping areas are springing up – Wanda Plaza in nearby Zhoupu is home to a lot of shops and a large Tesco supermarket, as well as a new International Cinema Complex. Disneyland is scheduled to open in Nanhui, just a short drive from the school, in the coming years, as is a new IKEA store. Century Park, the Science and Technology Museum (pictured left) and the Oriental Pearl Tower are all on our doorstep, with many students in school benefitting from regular trips to both these venues.
207 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
JIADING DISTRICT By Mark Angus, Principal THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SHANGHAI, NANXIANG
J
iading District in northwest Shanghai – home to the British International School Shanghai, Nanxiang campus – is becoming an increasingly attractive place for a growing number of expatriate families to live and work. Given that Jiading has a very rich and fascinating history, boasts exceptionally good transport links, spacious and affordable housing, green public spaces and an infrastructure that encourages and welcomes business and foreign investment, it’s very easy to understand why.
Jiading borders Putuo and Changning Districts (to the east), Minhang District (to the south) and Baoshan District (to the north). It has some of the best transport links in all of Shanghai, which means that BISS Nanxiang is one of the easiest and quickest international schools to travel to from just about anywhere in the city. Jiading District connects to the rest of Shanghai via the middle ring road and the S5 (formerly the A12), meaning that you can travel between the school and People’s Square on elevated highways for the entire journey, in an average journey time of about 30 minutes. What’s more, in 2009 Metro line 11 opened, connecting Jiading District and BISS Nanxiang with downtown Shanghai. From Jiangsu Road station, the journey time to Nanxiang Station is 28 minutes, and to North Jiading Station 50 minutes.
208 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
Jiading District boasts some excellent accommodation choices for families, and there are a number of international compounds where good-sized and good-value family villas and apartments can be found. The biggest of these is Greenworld, which is adjacent to both BISS Nanxiang and Nanxiang Station. The Greenworld compound has a Carrefour supermarket and shopping mall, a number of other speciality shops, restaurants and bars, hairdressers and beauty salons, as well as sporting facilities such as an indoor tennis centre, indoor and outdoor pools and a golf driving range. Other housing compounds providing excellent accommodation within walking distance of the school are Green Valley Villas and Shine June Gardens, which are both less than five minutes from BISS Nanxiang. There are also a significant number of well-established international housing compounds in Jiading Town, Malu and Anting, three of the main expatriate areas in Jiading. There are many other factors that make Jiading District a good choice for expatriate families, including the excellent sporting and recreation opportunities the area provides.
209 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
A
Anyone who enjoys golf is well served, as there are a number of clubs and courses. The best are the Nanxiang Riviera Golf Resort, the Enhance Anting Golf Club and the Huating Shanghai Concord Gold Club, which are all easily reachable from anywhere in Jiading District (and indeed from anywhere in Shanghai). There’s also a retail development at Nanxiang Greenworld where you will find one of the largest concentrations of golf equipment outlets in all of China, and which will soon house a golf school and driving range. The Jiading Sports Centre, in Jiading Town, also has facilities for a wide range of other group and individual sporting activities, while Nanxiang has one of Shanghai’s best indoor tennis centres. Jiading District is also home to the Shanghai International Circuit, where the Chinese Formula 1 Grand Prix is held in April each year. It’s only natural that the circuit be located here, since this is the home of China’s automotive industry and almost every major player in the international car market has a presence in Jiading District, mostly in Anting. There’s an excellent auto museum in Shanghai International Automobile City (www.shautocity. com/english/jcbl.htm) with displays and exhibits on the history of car manufacture in China and around the world, and which houses a display of around 70 antique vehicles.
“There are many factors that make Jiading District a good choice for expatriate families, including the excellent sporting and recreation opportunities”
Malu, Shanghai’s most famous grape-producing town, is also in Jiading District and is the home of Shanghai Shenma Winery, maker of Imperial Court wines, and Malu Grape Park, a park that allows visitors to experience the grape-growing and winemaking processes up close. Visitors can pick and crush their own grapes, learn about a variety of wine-making techniques and sample a wide range of the region’s wines. Malu produces about a quarter of Shanghai’s grapes, and the grapes grown here are known across the nation for their high quality, and for being exceptionally sweet and juicy.
Anting is also a fascinating town to visit, providing a rich variety of experiences. Anting Old Street has retained the charm and style of the Ming and Qing Dynasties and there are many old-style bars, teahouses, restaurants and antique shops selling porcelain, paintings and local specialties, forming a sharp contrast with the adjacent modern and stylish Shanghai International Auto City. Anting also contains the ancient Bodhi Temple, Binxing Bridge (a bridge built during the Song Dynasty) and
210 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement Huilongtan Park, a public space with a rich variety of wildlife and landscapes. In Jiading Town itself there are many places of interest for visitor and resident alike. The Confucius Temple, constructed during the Southern Song Dynasty in 1219, is a Shanghai Municipality Protected Historic Site. Adjacent to the temple is the Shanghai Museum of the Chinese Imperial Examination System, the world’s only museum specialising in the imperial examination system, which vividly tells the story of its 1300 years of history, from its beginnings in the Sui Dynasty to its demise at the end of the Qing Dynasty. Another site of cultural interest is the Lu Yanshao Art Academy (www.luyanshao.com). There are two main galleries – a hall where a variety of temporary exhibitions take place, and a permanent exhibition hall featuring the masterpieces of Lu Yanshao collected by the Academy – while there are also lecture rooms and classrooms and a number of smaller exhibition spaces.
“Jiading District is home to the Shanghai International Circuit, where the Chinese Formula 1 Grand Prix is held in April each year”
Of course, anyone with even a passing acquaintance with Shanghai will know of the internationally famous Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant in Yuyuan Gardens – but how many people know that the home of the xiaolongbao is actually Nanxiang Town in Jiading District, where it was first created over 100 years ago? Nanxiang has an entire street lined with specialist xiaolongbao restaurants where, after watching the dumplings being made, you can enjoy a freshly steamed basket of dumplings and a bowl of soup, the likes of which can not be surpassed. The inventor of xiaolongbao, Huang Mingxian, sold them first on a snack stall in Nanxiang, and then later at a restaurant over 100 years ago – and this restaurant, adjacent to the very ancient and glorious Guyi Garden, is still serving xiaolongbao to this day. In fact, Nanxiang’s little steamed bun is such a part of Shanghai life that the makers are looking for it to be recognised as part of the country’s cultural heritage.
211 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
H
However, there’s a great deal more to Nanxiang than dumplings – the town has a history of nearly 1500 years, and in 1991 was listed as one of the four most famous historical and cultural towns in Shanghai. Aside from the food culture there are sites of true historical significance, Guyi Garden (Garden of Ancient Splendour) was built in 1566 as a private garden. In addition to Ming Dynasty architecture, pavilions, corridors, winding paths, ponds and scores of exotic birds, inside the garden are famous artworks of great value. The Lost Corner Pavilion, built in the 1930s during the Anti-Japanese War, is a reminder of the period when the northeastern part of China was in enemy hands. Nanxiang also has Yunxiang Temple, the only mid-Tang Dynasty-style temple in Shanghai. There are many famous legends about the temple and its construction, and it has long been believed to bring prosperity to the area. Visitors can still see monks carrying books and wandering through the corridors with their shaved heads, wearing yellow gowns and dark cloth shoes. Closely associated with the history of the temple and the town are the Nanxiang Twin Pagodas, built in the Five Dynasties period (907-960). The ancient pagodas, with seven stories and octahedral sides, are 11 metres high. Completely built with bricks, they are finely crafted in imitation of the wooden-structured towers in
212 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
Shanghai Neighbourhoods Supplement
southern China, and look like architectural models. They are the only existing brick pagodas from the Five Dynasties period in the whole of China, and of extraordinary cultural and architectural value. This whistle-stop tour of Jiading District is designed to give a mere flavour of the quality of life available to expatriate families. The transport links mean that you can live in a quiet and peaceful suburban neighbourhood, while at the same time being able to hit downtown Shanghai – by a variety of transport means – in no time at all. The high-quality family housing on offer means that there is a wide variety of compounds to choose from, suiting a range of budgets and providing a number of housing types and styles. There is an abundance of modern shopping and leisure facilities, while the cultural, historical and artistic heritage of Jiading District is unrivalled. And finally, the BISS Nanxiang campus means that wherever you are in Jiading District, top-quality international education is available without the burden of a long journey across Shanghai twice a day. When you put all this together, moving your family to Jiading District really does make extremely good sense. To find out more about Jiading, visit http://english.jiading.gov.cn/index.asp
213 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
W
e hope you have enjoyed our Essentials Guide Shanghai and found it useful. Our goal was to provide relocating families with a primer to life in Shanghai which contained practical information that would demystify the process and ease the transition to our city. As well, we hoped that the images we selected would convey the complex – and at times strikingly beautiful – character of the city and its people.
A
t The British International School we endeavour to provide for our students and families an environment in which they can thrive during their time in Shanghai. We take our role seriously and encourage you to visit us to find out more.
PHOTO BY MARTIN BROWN
PHOTOS BY MARTIN BROWN
PHOTO BY RICHARD RESTELL
221 221 THE ESSENTIALS GUIDE SHANGHAI
the british international school
Shanghai, China
helping others to be the best they can be HELPING We do everything to support people and be useful to them, always keeping their best interests at heart. OTHERS Our communities: students, parents, policy makers, the societies in which we live and, of course, our own people. Our work reaches all of them. THRIVE To grow. To flourish. To learn. To be inspired. To stretch yourself further than you, or anyone else, thought possible. To experience more. To keep going, onwards and upwards, closer and closer to your aims and dreams.
WWW.BISSHANGHAI.COM
CONTACT admissions@bisshanghai.com FOR MORE INFORMATION ON SCHOOL ADMISSIONS