HE TI S H HION ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 02.03
The British Fashion Council Aims Funding Governance Members Year in View
British Fashion Council Initiatives Overview Introduction Designer Support BFC/ELLE Talent Launch Pad Headonism BFC NEWGEN BFC NEWGEN MEN Fashion Forward Estethica BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund BFC/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation
New This Year British Fashion Council Fashion Trust
Events and Celebration London Fashion Week London Fashion Weekend British Fashion Awards London Showrooms
Education and Industry Insight and Partnerships British Fashion Council Colleges Council Value of Fashion Report Market Reports Business Support Network Promoting British Fashion British Fashion Council Guest Programme PR Publications Online
What Else Sustainability Diversity Supporting Models Charities Manufacturing Alliance Events
THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL HAS BUILT ON THE SUCCESSES OF ITS 25TH ANNIVERSARY WITH MORE DESIGNER SUPPORT OPPORTUNITIES AND INCREASED GLOBAL PROFILE FOR BRITISH DESIGNER FASHION BUSINESSES AND THE INDUSTRY AS A WHOLE. 2010/11 has been an extraordinary year for British fashion with incredible design talent drawing influential international fashion audiences to London Fashion Week, the UK’s global showcase for designer fashion. With representatives from over 60 countries, media coverage exceeded £100m each season (£200m each year). Through partnerships with sponsors Canon, Vodafone and Glaceau Vitamin Water, London Fashion Week highlights were seen by a consumer audience throughout the UK and on key advertising sites throughout London. The British Fashion Council (BFC) achieved its objectives for the year 2010/11. It delivered the Value of Fashion Report, defining the industry for the first time and its contribution to UK GDP: £37 billion. The British Fashion Awards grew in profile, and through its new venue The Savoy, provided broader audience participation. It launched new initiatives the BFC/ELLE Talent Launch Pad, the BFC/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation and the BFC Fashion Trust. Erdem, the inaugural winner of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund was announced in April 2010 and Christopher Kane the 2011 winner was announced in February this year. The profile and business support element of NEWGEN sponsored by Topshop, NEWGENMen sponsored by Topman, Fashion Forward sponsored by Coutts and Estethica sponsored by Monsoon have all been elevated, directly contributing to the successes of British designer businesses. This was also an important year for recognition, HRH The Queen hosted an event for the British Fashion Industry at Buckingham Palace; Samantha Cameron, in her role as the Prime Minister’s wife agreed to be an Ambassador of the BFC promoting our designers here in the UK and internationally and an All Party Political Group for Fashion and Textiles was formed to provide direct briefings on the industry to Government. Supporting and promoting British design talent remains the focus of the BFC. The more closely the organisation works with designers to support their businesses the more engaged it becomes in the challenges they collectively face such as access to finance, manufacturing and attracting talent into key roles. The development of both new and
established designer support programmes would not be possible without BFC Industry Patrons, Corporate Partners, the Commercial Sponsors of each event and initiative, the London Development Agency and UK Trade and Investment. There are also many individuals that give their time freely to sit on committees and judging panels throughout the year. I would like to thank all of our partners and advisors for their support, especially Sarah Mower, BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent. Anya Hindmarch joined the BFC Executive Board in October 2010 bringing a wealth of knowledge of the sector and her broader overview as British Trade Ambassador. Hilary Riva stepped down from the Executive Board, having completed 18th months support for the new full time management team. Hilary played a pivotal role in the development of the organisation, working on a pro bono basis and I give her heartfelt thanks for her support. Chris Inman, Honorary Treasurer and non Executive Director, continues to work for the organisation on a pro-bono basis and all those involved in the organisation join me in thanking Chris for his on-going support. The BFC team continue to innovate and consistently deliver high profile and impactful events to a high standard and I thank them all. Harold Tillman CBE Chairman
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 04.05
THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
THE BFC WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1983 TO PROMOTE BRITISH FASHION TO A GLOBAL MARKET. IT PRODUCES EVENTS, CREATES AND DELIVERS INITIATIVES TO SUPPORT AND STRENGTHEN THE UK’S REPUTATION FOR DESIGN EXCELLENCE. THROUGH THESE ACTIVITIES THE BFC ASSISTS THE GROWTH AND ECONOMIC IMPACT OF THE DESIGNER FASHION INDUSTRY TO UK PLC AND ENHANCES THE INTERNATIONAL, CULTURAL AND CREATIVE REPUTATION OF THE INDUSTRY AS A WHOLE.
The BFC is funded by Industry Patrons and Commercial Partners. Since 2007 it has received grant support from the Mayor of London’s office through the London Development Agency to enable it to strengthen the content and international profile of London Fashion Week and the profile and impact of London’s designers. UKTI support specific initiatives that directly deliver increased opportunities for British businesses to grow. The BFC prides itself in developing long term partnerships with Commercial Partners for its events and initiatives, delivering both opportunities for designers and partners alike.
An Executive Board was established in 2009 with the appointment of the organisation’s first full-time management team.
The BFC Executive Board briefs an industry Advisory Board quarterly on strategy and achievements. The Advisory Board comprises BFC committee chairs, representatives from education, Industry Patrons and Corporate Partners who give freely of their time and expertise to help develop a focused programme of promotion and support for leading British designer businesses.
The BFC thanks all of its patrons, partners and funding partners who have helped make the recent growth and profile of the designer sector possible. London Fashion Week now draws more influential audiences of fashion media and designer fashion retailers to the capital than ever before to see British designer businesses. Media coverage of London Fashion Week exceeds £100m each season demonstrating the global reach of the event and its role in promoting British creativity and London as a creative capital.
The BFC is developing an Ambassador programme. This year Samantha Cameron was appointed an Ambassador for the BFC and in 2009 Sarah Mower was appointed the BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent. Ambassadors assist in developing engagement with audiences to support the increased profile and growth of the industry.
Bicester Village Burberry Condé Nast Publications Debenhams Gap Hachette Filipacchi Harrods
— Harold Tillman CBE Chairman
— Caroline Rush Chief Executive Officer — Simon Ward Chief Operating Officer
House of Fraser HSBC Jaeger John Lewis
— Chris Inman Honorary Treasurer and Non-Executive Director
— Anya Hindmarch Non-Executive Director
— Hilary Riva (Non-Executive Director until September 2010) Ambassadors: — Samantha Cameron — Sarah Mower The Advisory Board 2010/11 comprised Industry Patrons Corporate Partners Honorary Members
Major of London Marks & Spencer Mulberry National Magazine Gallery New Look Next Radley & Co River Island Selfridges Tesco
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 06.07
YEAR IN VIEW
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund inaugural Winner announcement hosted by Harold Tillman CBE and Alexandra Shulman at The Club at The Ivy.
BFC CC Warehouse design competition.
NEWGEN sponsored by Topshop winners announced for spring/summer 2011 at Somerset House.
Sponsors Summer Drinks.
Thomas Crisp becomes the first menswear graduate to win the BFC MA Scholarship Award funded by the Princess of Wales Charitable Trust.
British Fashion Awards 2010 Nominees Party.
London Showrooms takes leading emerging British designers to Paris.
Harold Tillman, Chairman of the BFC was bestowed the honour of Commander of the British Empire (CBE).
British Fashion Awards 2010 held at The Savoy.
NEWGEN business seminar.
Christopher Kane announced as the winner of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2011.
London Showrooms in Paris and New York.
Estethica sponsored by Monsoon Press Day for spring/summer 2010 at Somerset House. Graduate Preview Day for BFC Colleges Council member colleges. BFC Colleges Council (BFC CC). Course Heads Seminar by Harold Tillman.
BFC CC Harrods design competition.
NEWGEN MEN sponsored by TOPMAN winners announced. London Showrooms Men launches in Paris at Tranoi Parc Royale, a collaboration between BFC, CFE and Fashion East. BFC partners with Ascot to showcase leading British emerging talent. Mary Katrantzou was selected for the inaugural partnership.
The BFC partnership with Vintage at Goodwood on ‘Future Vintage’ project.
BFC MA scholarship awarded.
Harrods announce two winners of the Harrods graduate competition in partnership with the BFC Colleges Council.
Music Moves Fashion launch.
BFC/ELLE Talent Launch Pad launch at Whitechapel Gallery.
London Showrooms goes to New York in partnership with the CFE.
BFC/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation launch at Shoreditch House.
International Herald Tribune Luxury Heritage Conference opening party collaboration.
BFC publishes Value of Fashion Report and launches it in the House of Commons.
I.H.T Luxury Heritage conference launch at Park Lane Intercontinental Hotel.
BFC announces Samantha Cameron as Ambassador for the British Fashion Council. BFC and Sony launch CD The Collections for LFW by Christopher Bailey for Burberry LONDON FASHION WEEK. Chairman’s Dinner hosted by HSBC.
Harold Tillman recognised for Outstanding Contribution to Fashion at the inaugural Global Fashion Awards in New York, hosted by WGSN. Anya Hindmarch joins the BFC as a non-executive director.
NEWGEN sponsored by Topshop and NEWGEN MEN sponsored by Topman winners announced for autumn/winter 2011.
BFC CC Burberry competition.
BFC announce Fashion Forward winners sponsored by Coutts & Co and LDA.
BFC takes London Showrooms Men to Paris. BFC CC Adidas competition in partnership with LOCOG.
BAFTA invited the BFC to host British talent styling suite at its Film Awards. BFC and Sony launch The Collection for LFW by Matthew Williamson. Burberry live stream fashion show for the first time in Piccadilly Circus.
London Fashion Week highlights and Twitter feeds on London Underground courtesy of CBS Outdoor UK and Glaceau Vitamin Water.
BFC Colleges Council (BFC CC) Heads of Course Seminar hosted by Harrods.
BFC ELLE/Talent Launch Pad events commence thanks to Cricket, Stanwells, Anna Park, Hervia Bazaar and Bernards Boutique. Bicester Village and the BFC launch British Designers Collective.
LONDON FASHION WEEK.
BFC partner with Alcantara on a new range of products designed by David Koma, Louise Gray, Mary Katrantzou, Michael van der Ham and Todd Lynn.
BFC Fashion Trust Programme Launch.
BFC CC Neil Barrett competition.
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 08.09
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 10.11
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL INITIAITIVES OVERVIEW
EVENTS AND CELEBRATION
EDUCATION AND INDUSTRY INSIGHT
BUISNESS SUPPORT NETWORK
The BFC has an annual programme of activity that has developed significantly over the past 12 months. Its initiatives fall broadly under three key headings, often with touch points across all three. — Designer Support — Events and Celebration — Education and Industry Insight
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 12.13
BFC/ELLE TALENT LAUNCH PAD
BFC NEWGEN SPONSORED BY TOPSHOP
BFC NEWGEN MEN SPONSORED BY TOPMAN
The BFC and ELLE would like to thank independent retailers Anna Park, Bernards Boutique, Cricket, Hervia Bazaar and Stanwells for supporting the first year of this new initiative which aims to support emerging talent, develop a good understanding of the needs of retailers, give profile throughout the UK and develop a strong understanding of the workings of a fashion magazine. Helena Christiansen supported year one of this scheme, wearing the designers for a shoot with ELLE Magazine. All retailers hosted in-store events for designers launching them to their customers.
NEWGEN recipients are selected by a panel of media and buying experts chaired by Sarah Mower, the BFC’s Ambassador for Emerging Talent. Catwalk designers receive financial awards up to £10,000 to cover their show costs, designers exhibiting receive sponsored show space and all designers selected have access to business support mentoring. Recognising the need for ongoing support to help sustain growth, designers can receive NEWGEN support for up to four seasons.
In August 2009, the BFC launched NEWGEN MEN for emerging menswear designers in the UK to assist in showcasing their collections and to receive business mentoring and support. This intiative assists the BFC in promoting the breadth of British menswear talent internationally. NEWGEN MEN is sponsored by TOPMAN. Designers are selected by a menswear committee of leading editors and buyers.
All designers selected are offered a sponsored space to show in the Exhibition at London Fashion Week.
Since NEWGEN’s inception its roll call has included Alexander McQueen, Boudicca, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Marios Schwab, Matthew Williamson and Richard Nicoll. This year NEWGEN supported Atalanta Weller, Chau Har Lee, Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, David Koma, Dominic Jones , Fannie Schiavoni, Felicity Brown, Heikki Salonen, Holly Fulton, J. JS Lee, J.W. Anderson, Jordan Askill, Louise Gray, Mark Fast, Mary Katrantzou, Michael Lewis, Michael van der Ham, Nasir Mazhar, Peter Pilotto, Thomas Tait and Yang Du. The BFC thanks Acadia for their long term commitment to supporting London’s emerging talent.
This year NEWGEN MEN supported Carolyn Massey, Christopher Raeburn, Christopher Shannon, J.W. Anderson, James Long, James Small, JW Anderson, Katie Eary, Lou Dalton, Omar Kashoura and Sibling.
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 14.15
HEADONISM SUPPORTED BY ROYAL ASCOT
BFC FASHION FORWARD SPONSORED BY COUTTS & CO AND SUPPORTED BY THE LONDON DEVELOPMENT AGENCY
Headonism is a BFC initiative curated by Stephen Jones, celebrating the new wave of emerging London milliners. Headonism celebrates British millinery as a craft while providing a platform for Emerging London milliners within an installation at London Fashion Week. It was launched during the BFC’s 25 Year celebrations by Mayor of London Boris Johnson. Headonism is sponsored by Royal Ascot.
At the beginning of 2010 Coutts & Co were announced as the new sponsor of the BFC’s Fashion Forward initiative which was first established in 2006. This initiative offers financial support to show at London Fashion Week and mentoring support from the BFC and Coutts & Co. Those eligible will have been in business for just over three years, will probably have come through NEWGEN or will be at a similar stage in their business. The 2011 winners awarded in January were Meadham Kirchhoff, Peter Pilotto and Todd Lynn.
BFC ESTETHICA SPONSORED BY MONSOON
Estethica is a BFC initiative to ensure the UK leads the world in eco sustainable fashion: it is sponsored by Monsoon and co curated by Anna Orsini, BFC Strategic Consultant, Orsola de Castro and Filippo Ricci of the label ‘From Somewhere’. Estethica is now in its 5th year and has evolved to become the epicentre of London’s ethical fashion industry. The success of this initiative, the strongest of its kind, is evident in its rapid growth. Designers new to Estethica this year included Ada Zanditon, Aiste Nesterovaite, Charini, Dr.Noki, Reclaim To Wear, Henrietta Ludgate, Joanna Cave, Junky Styling, Makepiece, Monsoon, Pachacuti, The North Circular, Victim Fashion Street. A dedicated mentoring programme for Estethica was established in 2009 to develop eco fashion businesses into commercially successful designer businesses. Six of Estethcia’s designers this year received one to one expert advice and support from one of three industry mentors: brand consultants Susanne Tide Frater, Yasmin Sewell and buying consultant Bev Malik. This initiative received support from the London Development Agency and aims to increase opportunities for ethical designers competing in the mainstream. Estethica also provides a platform to showcase the very best in ethical initiatives including Ethical Justice Foundation, Ethical Fashion Forum, and selected projects from the Centre for Sustainable Fashion.
ESTETHICA IS NOW IN ITS 5TH YEAR AND HAS EVOLVED TO BECOME THE EPICENTRE OF LONDON’S ETHICAL FASHION INDUSTRY.
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 16.17
BFC/VOGUE DESIGNER FASHION FUND
The BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund is a registered charity. It offers a significant financial award that enables a designer to considerably increase their profile as a creative British designer, to develop the infrastructure of their business and with the assistance of high level mentoring start making the transition from a developing creative business to a global fashion brand.
— Chair Alexandra Shulman Vogue UK & Chair of the Fund Committee and Judging Panel
Christopher Kane was announced as the 2011 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund winner at a cocktail reception hosted by Alexandra Shulman and Harold Tillman CBE at Almada. Erdem, the inaugural winner of the Fund reported significant leaps in business development over the past year. He not only developed his business in terms of team, orders and studio space, but also broadened his professional network through the mentoring committee which has agreed to continue to support where possible for a further six months. Marigay McKee leads on co-ordination of the mentoring panel and plays a key role in supporting all shortlisted designers. HSBC ensured that all shortlisted designers had the opportunity to have an HSBC mentor for the year to build greater understanding of what is required when applying for credit and how to build strong relationships with banking partners.
NEW THIS YEAR
— Belinda Earl Jaeger and Aquascutum — Carol Bagnald HSBC — Caroline Rush British Fashion Council — Glynn Chilton Paul Smith — James Tarbuck Toni&Guy — Jan Marchant Clothing at Tesco — Joan Burstein Browns — Karen Peacock Debenhams — Kate Bostock Marks & Spencer — Lisa Armstrong The Daily Telegraph — Marigay McKee Harrods — Mary Homer Topshop — Myf Ryan Westfield Shopping Town — Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck Toni&Guy — Samantha Cameron British Fashion Council Ambassador — Sarah Manley Burberry — Stephanie Chen House of Fraser — Susanne Tide-Frater Brand Consultant — Tony Yusuf Hardy Amies (LF Europe) BFC would like to thank sponsors of the Fund: Aquascutum, Burberry, Clothing at Tesco, Debenhams, Harrods, House of Fraser, HSBC, Jaeger, LF Europe, Marks & Spencer, Paul Smith, TONI & GUY, TOPSHOP, VOGUE and Westfield Shopping Towns. The shortlisted designers for 2011 were Charlotte Olympia, Christopher Kane, E.Tautz, Jonathan Saunder, Nicholas Kirkwood, OSMAN, Peter Pilotto and Richard Nicoll.
BFC FASHION TRUST
The BFC Fashion Trust was founded by the BFC in February 2011 to support the growth and development of British fashion designers worldwide. Its aim it to build a group of extrordinary members who, with private funding and powerful networks, can assist in harnessing the creativity of British fashion designers through a global network and mentoring programme. The BFC Fashion Trust is co-chaired by and Its founder members include Heather Kerzner, Kate Haslett, Kim Hersov, Tania Fares and Valeria Napoleone. Arts Co support the BFC in the management and development of this initiative.
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 18.19
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 20.21
EVENTS AND CELEBRATION
LONDON FASHION WEEK
London Fashion Week takes place twice a year in February and September showcasing over 250 designer collections to a global audience of influential media and retailers. London is one of the four leading fashion weeks, it sits alongside New York, Milan and Paris and has developed the reputation of ‘innovation capital’ and the ‘birthplace of talent’.
The BFC would like to thank all London Fashion Week sponsors in particular Canon UK for support as principal sponsor. Canon has supported London Fashion Week for nine seasons and provide professional services and an on-site photographers’ centre for professional accredited fashion photographers from across the world.
The event runs over six days, has approximately 60 catwalks shows, 20 presentations and an Exhibition of 200 selected high end designer businesses that are of interest to a global audience. In addition to this there are many shows that are not listed on the official show schedule such as pop-up designer showcases, individual and multiband showrooms. The BFC also compiles a vibrant events schedule of launches, after show parties, dinners, gallery and museum based fashion exhibitions.
Sponsors of London Fashion Week September 2010 and February 2011 include:
London Fashion Week generates global media coverage in excess of £100m each season, orders in excess of £100m annually and contributes £30m annually in direct spend to the London economy. The BFC creates an official guide to London Fashion Week, maintains a comprehensive website, delivers a year round engagement programme, is developing it social media platforms and has its own newspaper the London Fashion Week The Daily.
Sep–10 Feb–11 Canon Canon — Principal Sponsor — Principal Sponsor British Airways
Coutts & Co
Glaceau Vitamin Water
F&F at Tesco
Glaceau Vitamin Water
The Mayfair Hotel
Lavazza Mercedes LDA Monsoon MAC
F&F at Tesco
The Mayfair Hotel
Mercedes Topshop Monsoon Topman Toni&Guy Toywatch Topshop UKTI Topman Vodafone Toywatch UKTI Vodafone
LONDON FASHION WEEK CONTRIBUTES £30M ANNUALLY IN DIRECT SPEND TO THE LONDON ECONOMY.
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 22.23
EVENTS AND CELEBRATION
In September 2010 London Fashion Week was opened by Ed Vaizey MP, Minister for Culture alongside Harold Tillman CBE. The opening remarks hit home the impact of the industry to the UK, generating strong media coverage focusing on fashion as a business and its contribution to UK PLC.
Samantha Cameron, the Prime Minister’s wife and Ambassador for the BFC opened London Fashion Week, championing the importance of the sector and British designers. To demonstrate her commitment to the sector she hosted two events, one to officially launch London Fashion Week at Downing Street and the second, in partnership with Anna Wintour to engage with international retailers and re-enforce the importance of their attendance at London Fashion Week.
Designer businesses participating re-enforced this message through innovative yet commercial collections by both British brands Burberry, Paul Smith, Jasper Conran through to London’s rising stars and emerging talents such as Erdem, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto. The BFC partnered with the Prince of Wales’s sustainable festival Start to host the first Estethica sustainable fashion show in the gardens of St James’s Palace, for the first time giving consumers access to a show on-schedule at London Fashion Week. This show was attended by Mayor of London Boris Johnson. London continues to attract leading media and retailers from over 60 countries.
The opportunity to engage London in Fashion Week was enhanced through a partnership with CBS Outdoor to show highlights of London Fashion Week on the underground with Twitter feeds to keep the content active and current. Burberry live streamed to the outdoor screens at Piccadilly Circus for the first time taking London Fashion Week outdoor in real-time. Vodafone joined as a partner for London Fashion Week making fashion a key strand of their marketing activity alongside festivals and Formula One. Vodafone hosted a Jaeger show and in-store promotion for their VIP customers as part of their sponsorship of London Fashion Week. They also supported Christopher Kane’s show demonstrating their commitment to supporting talent.
LONDON FASHION WEEK TAKES PLACE TWICE A YEAR SHOWCASING OVER 250 DESIGNER COLLECTIONS TO A GLOBAL AUDIENCE OF INFLUENTIAL MEDIA AND RETAILERS.
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 24.25
EVENTS AND CELEBRATION
The British Fashion Awards 2010.. was held at The Savoy Hotel and Theatre. This new format awards saw over 1,000 industry professionals join together to celebrate the very best of British fashion. BRITISH FASHION AWARDS
LIST OF AWARDS AND WINNERS IN 2010:
LONDON SHOW ROOMS
The British Fashion Awards 2010, generously supported by HSBC, Toni & Guy and Mac, was held at The Savoy Hotel and Theatre. This new format awards saw over 1,000 industry professionals join together to celebrate the very best of British fashion. Both winners and shortlisted designers are selected by a panel of leading media and retailers, in some instances going out to an international panel for their opinions and votes.
Digital Innovation Award: — Burberry
London Show Rooms provide a unique opportunity for emerging British designers to promote themselves outside London. The pop-up showroom is a strategic element of the BFC's support and mentoring scheme. It aims to promote London design internationally and secure new export business.
The Awards paid tribute to Lee Alexander McQueen with a film created by Nick Knight on behalf of the BFC and McQueen team.
Emerging Talent Award – Accessories: — Husam El Odeh
Special Recognition Award: — Naomi Campbell British Style: — Alexa Chung
Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: — Nicola Formichetti Emerging Talent Award – Ready to wear: — Meadham Kirchhoff Accessory Designer: — Nicholas Kirkwood BFC oustanding Achievement in Fashion Design: — Lee Alexander McQueen Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design: — Lee Alexander McQueen Designer Brand: — Mulberry Designer brand of the Year: — Phoebe Philo for Celine Model: — Lara Stone Menswear Designer: — Patrick Grant for E. Tautz
The showroom is a partially subsidised space for designers to sell their collections with the support of international marketing, media & sales advisers. London Show Rooms are supported by the European Regional Development Fund and UK Trade and Investment
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 26.27
VODAFONE LONDON FASHION WEEKEND Vodafone London Fashion Weekend is the BFC’s consumer show that takes place in the central venue for London Fashion Week each season after the trade event. Its new headline partner Vodafone brought music to Weekend with Ellie Goulding playing at their Vodafone VIP show to launch Weekend activity. The aim of this activity is to provide an engaging and entertaining fashion experience to consumers whilst assisting designers in clearing stock in a credible managed sale environment.
EVENTS AND CELEBRATION
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 28.29
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EDUCATION AND INDUSTRY INSIGHT
BFC COLLEGES COUNCIL
The Colleges Council was founded by the BFC in 1993. Today it offers more initiatives and opportunities for its member colleges than ever before. Its role is to create an interface between education and industry, providing opportunities for students including events, bursaries, competitions and support for college heads and tutors. There are currently 34 member colleges, all of which were invited to join the Colleges Council. The annual programme is decided by the Steering Committee which is chaired by Anne Tyrell.
Member Colleges are: Art Institute Bournemouth Bath Spa University Birmingham City University Bucks New University Central Saint Martins De Montfort University Doncaster College Edinburgh College of Art Kingston University Liverpool John Moores University London College of Fashion Manchester School of Art Middlesex University Northbrook College Nottingham Trent University Plymouth College of Art Ravensbourne College of Design & Communications Royal College of Art Thames Valley University The University of Northampton University of Creative Arts, Rochester University of Brighton University of Derby University of East London University of Huddersfield University of Leeds University of Northumbria University of Salford University of the West of England University of Wales, Newport University of Westminster
Each year the BFC Colleges Council hosts a Heads of Course Seminar to keep tutors updated on changes in and the challenges facing designers and the broader industry. This year’s seminar was held in association with Harrods and hosted by Marigay McKee, Fashion and Beauty Director. Speakers were invited to give insight into their sector, business challenges and key learnings for colleges and course heads. Hosted by Marigay McKee Speakers included: — Martin Stone, Business Support Consultant, BFC — Samantha Conti, London Bureau chief, WWD — Gabriella Piccinni, VP of International Sales and Business Development, Diane von Furstenberg — Will Steele, Pongees — Gary Assim, Shoosmiths — Nina Ferguson, Inca Productions — Antony Price
The BFC Colleges Council Graduate Preview Day gives industry professionals an opportunity to assess the talent due to graduate for the UK’s leading fashion colleges each year and talk to tutors directly, fostering relationships between colleges and industry. Since its inception in 1993, the Graduate Preview day has proved popular with designers, manufacturers, retailers and members of the media. In 2010, the event attracted a range of industry professionals including representatives from international and UK media, retailers and designer businesses including Vogue Italia, ELLE Magazine, Marie Claire, Evening Standard, Harrods, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Browns, Topshop, Warehouse, MaxMara and Nicole Farhi. In order to encourage the development of professional student portfolios, prizes are awarded for overall presentation, digital presentations and fashion illustrations. A judging panel reviews all portfolios and selects based on the overall standard of each college. The 2010 winners of the Graduate Preview Day Awards were: Drapers College Portfolio Award — University of Salford WGSN Digital Presentation Award — London College of Fashion BFC Illustration Award — Kingston University The judging panel highy commended Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication for the standard of their illustration and London College of Fashion for the design content of their portfolios. The BFC thanks the judges for their support: Anne Tyrrell — Chair of the BFC College Council Lauretta Roberts — Editor of WGSN Ana Santi — Commissioning Editor of Drapers Anita Barr — Buying Director of Womenswear, Selfridges London Fashion Week designer — Todd Lynn
Daisy Craver from University of Westminster was announced as the winner of the Warehouse Design Competition in association with the BFC Colleges Council. Nine students from Colleges Council member colleges were shortlisted and interviewed by a panel of industry professionals. Daisy saw her graduation collection produced and sold in Warehouse stores across the country, with a media launch during London Fashion Week September 2010.
The Harrods Design Competition, announced by Marigay McKee during the 2010 Heads of Course Seminar, is a new competition aimed to award one student a year’s paid internship working alongside the Harrods Own Label team. Of those interviewed, Amelia Chester from Northumbria University and Jessica Madden from the University of Westminster were chosen to undertake a one month training placement at Harrods, working alongside the Harrods Own Label team. Following the month of training and development, the two finalists were required to produce a piece of work based on a second brief. Both students presented their concept and designs for Harrods Own Label to a judging panel. Due to the high level of work, professionalism and commitment demonstrated, both students were offered the opportunity of one year’s paid internship. Both students completed their year placement and have been offered full time employment with Harrods.
The BFC MA Scholarship is funded by the Princess of Wales Charitable Trust, the BFC’s educational charity. Students apply each year and are assessed on talent and need. This year Thomas Crisp from Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication was the first menswear focused graduate to be awarded the scholarship. Thomas, who achieved a First in his BA (Hons) Fashion Menswear course, said “The BFC MA Scholarship award is really amazing and I’m extremely happy. Without this funding from the BFC, I would not have the opportunity to study at MA level and develop my designs”. Thomas is currently studying MA Fashion Menswear at the Royal College of Art.
The BFC teamed up with Burberry’s Chief Operating Officer Christopher Bailey to set a competition brief for the Colleges Council students. The brief asked students to use the official war artists William Orpen as the starting reference point to a design collection of coats or bags. Anna Rosevear from Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication was the winning student and received a prize of £2,000 and three months paid placement at Burberry Global Head Quarters. Christopher Bailey was so impressed with the entries he also offered three other students work placements at Burberry.
The BFC worked with LOCOG to develop a student competiton to link with the Olympics. Adidas, official partner of team GB, set a brief to Colleges Council students to create a casualwear collection aimed at women or men aged 16-20. The competition, named the adidas London 2012 Sportswear Award was judged in January 2011 by the adidas design team, two adidas sponsored athletes Heather Fell and Philip Odowu alongside Anne Tyrrell and Caroline Rush on behalf of the BFC. The winning student completed a two month paid placement at the adidas Headquarter in Germany developing the collection which will be officially launched and retailed in 2012.
Menswear designer Neil Barrett worked with the Colleges Council to create the first menswear specific brief. The winning student will be awarded a six month paid work placement in Milan including living expenses. Winner to be selected and announced July 2011.
As part of the prize Daisy won a six month work placement within the Warehouse Design team giving her the opportunity to see her designs produced and manufactured. Daisy completed her placement at Warehouse and was offered a full time position with the company. After six months, Daisy went on to join the Burberry design team.
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2010—2011 32.33
EDUCATION AND INDUSTRY INSIGHT
VALUE OF FASHION REPORT
BUSINESS SUPPORT NETWORK
The BFC commissioned a groundbreaking report which created a modern and relevant definition for the sector whilst, for the first time, valuing the sector’s contribution to UK PLC. The report was delivered by Oxford Economics sponsored by UKTI, London Development Agency, UKFT, Aurora Fashions, Debenhams, House of Fraser, Land Securities, Marks & Spencer and New Look.
The Business Support Network in an online easyaccess tool found on www.britishfashioncouncil. com/businesssupportnetwork. The Network provides information about organisations offering business support to the fashion industry from showcasing opportunities and funding, to training and advice for manufacturers and designers.
With support from UKTI the BFC invests in up to three Market Reports per year looking at cities in established and emerging markets to create in-depth views of the designer fashion landscape and opportunities for British businesses. When completed these reports are presented in seminars and are available to purchase from the BFC. The BFC also use this information to update its database and for targeting buyers to attend London Fashion Week and London Showrooms.
In September 2010 the BFC delivered the report to the Rt Hon Dr Vince Cable MP and Ed Vaizey MP to highlight its key findings: – £21 billion annual contribution to GDP – 800 thousand jobs – An industry that attracts a diverse workforce, comprising a significantly larger proportion of women and young people than many other sectors. It also highlighted challenges faced by the sector. Many of the challenges facing the designer sector are now being looked at by the BFC for either future research or development of resource to drive these forward.
LONDON SHOWCASING FUND
The LSF provides financial support for emerging designer initiatives. With funding from the London Development Agency the BFC manages the Fund’s application and delivery process with the support of a high level panel of industry press and buyers. Funding recipients during 2010/11 were Estethica, Fashion East menswear, Fashion East Man, Fashion East Women, On|Off and Vauxhall Fashion Scout.
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Communicating with the global fashion industry is a vital part of the promotion of British fashion, London Fashion Week and its designers. International markets have never before been more important to British designers and vice versa. British designers offer a point of difference, a stand out in store, product that is unique and that keeps consumers interested. The BFC’s communications strategy is multi faceted, targeting global audiences collectively and key audiences specifically and often individually through multiple platforms. Over the past 26 years the BFC has developed one of the most comprehensive databases of global media and retail buyers. This database is communicated to on average once every week with information regarding British designers, events, designer talent identification schemes and information on London as the leading creative capital.
PROMOTING BRITISH FASHION
THE BFC GUEST PROGRAMME
The guest programme has become an integral part of the BFC’s London Fashion Week promotional strategy. It is supported by UKTI to ensure attendance of key opinion formers, both media and buying teams, from traditional and emerging markets. The programme is vital in a city where the emphasis is often put on emerging design talent, that in the majority of cases, do not have the marketing budget with which to advertise.
The BFC in house PR team, with the support of international agencies, delivers media coverage for London Fashion Week in excess of £100m each season, more than many international sporting events, and £12.5m annually for the British Fashion Awards.
Letter from London
Britishfashioncouncil.com and Londonfashionweek.co.uk continue to draw increased audiences to view content on British fashion and the British fashion industry. A key marker for the demand for content on British designers in key markets such as US, China, Russia, France and Italy.
Communicating with media and buyers, the PR team coordinates the guest programme and the accreditation lists of domestic and international audiences attending London Fashion Week. These lists and audience profiles are shared with all fashion PRs representing designers showing at London Fashion Week. Telemarketing in multiple languages, this team ensures that British fashion has a truly international outreach programme, developing relationships with key audiences and ensuring that those audiences have points of contact when in London to introduce them to British designers and ensure that they get the most out of their visit to London Fashion Week.
Sarah Mower creates seasonal Letters from London identifying the must-see designers in advance of London Fashion Week and a trends highlight post event. This publication is sent to influential media and buying directors to attract these essential audiences to London to see British talent. The Inside Guide and Little Black Book The Guide to London Fashion Week was updated this year to provide a more editorial overview of The Exhibition at London Fashion Week as well as providing key information about the event and contact details for designers. All contact information is available within the Little Black Book and on-line. The Inside Guide and Little Black Book are handed to all visitors to London Fashion Week, one of the few publications that is put into the hands of both media and retailers on registration or collection of preregistered passes. London Fashion Week The Daily
The BFC is working in partnership with Rightster to distribute official event content to global audiences. This service has enabled the BFC to better manage the quality of content disseminated to key publications, broadcasters and retailers worldwide. The US is the second largest market for content after the UK. The social media strategy has developed over the year with an growing number of events providing increased opportunities to engage with audiences through facebook. com/londonfashionweek and twitter.com/londonfashionwk. Bloggers have seen increased facilities on-site at London Fashion Week with a dedicated bloggers bar, live streaming to screens at the venue as well as online. The digital panel continues to be a sounding board as the digital strategy is developed:
The Daily newspaper is an essential tool for keeping up to date on breaking stories, designer interviews, show reports, event updates and the inside track on what happens at London Fashion Week. Visitors use The Daily to keep their finger on the pulse of all activity while at London Fashion Week, it is also distributed to consumers throughout central London.
Published every season, The Estethica Guide is a magazine devoted to promoting the best in eco-sustainable fashion. Its editor Jessie Brinton tackles important sustainable issues whilst also including insightful interviews and a fashion shoot featuring the Estethica designers.
— Londonfashionweek.com — Londonfashionweek.com/live — Facebook.com/londonfashionweek
Britishfashioncouncil .com Londonfashionweek .com Londonfashionweek .com/live Facebook .com/londonfashionweek TWITTER .com..londonfashionwk Britishfashionawards .com
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Sustainability The BFC believes in sustainability. Its ethical fashion showcase Estethica is ground breaking and creates a focal point for the industry to support ethical designer businseses and look at the sustainable challenges facing all businesses. The BFC supports the 10:10 climate change campaign calling for a 10% cut to the UK’s carbon emissions. Diversity The BFC is committed to diversity, believing that the fashion industry is one of the most socially inclusive sectors in this country. Supporting Models The BFC brings together a working party comprising AMA, model agency representatives, Equity and the Mayor of London’s office to develop an ongoing Model Programme. This panel looks at opportunities to help set industry standards. The BFC ensures that designers showing at London Fashion Week supply food and soft drinks for models and workers backstage as part of their contract to show on schedule. All models walking at London Fashion Week must be at least 16 years of age. The BFC undertakes spot checks to ensure that these contractual obligations are adhered to. The BFC supports Erin O’Connor’s Model Sanctuary which is available to all working models during London Fashion Week. The Sanctuary provides healthy food and drink, a place to relax and network, access to counsellors, nutritionists and massages. Charities
Events The BFC supports events throughout the year by hosting, judging and sometimes presenting events. Just some fo the events we have supported in this way include International Herald Tribune Luxury Conference, ELLE Style Awards, Walpole Emerging Luxury Awards, Graduate Fashion Week, TextPrint. Manufacturing Alliance The BFC is a partner in the Manufacturing Alliance, formed to look at challenges facing designer fashion manufacturers in the UK, has identified the need to create a framework to support growth in this sector that is already in place in France, Italy and highlighted as a need in New York. The Alliance comprises BFC, Centre for Fashion Enterprise, London Manufacturing Advisory Service, Skillset and UK Fashion & Textile Association. Chairman of the BFC, Harold Tillman who has spearheaded the Alliance commented “This project has sought to explore how the relationships between designers and smaller manufacturing units can be improved to help both parties capitalise on the growing order books of British designer businesses. The small scale atelier type production units used by designers, most of which are based in London, are vital for our top end designer to sustain and develop sales growth each season.” The Fashion Alliance has developed downloadable tool kits to help designers communicate their needs effectively to production units. www.fashionalliance.co.uk
The BFC calls upon industry experts and advisors throughout the year for support in sourcing, identifying and selecting talent to support and to show at London Fashion Week, and/or receive recognition at the British Fashion Awards.
Angela Quaintrell — Freelance Retail Advisor
Chairman — Harold Tillman
Operations Manager — Anne Lomax
Anne Tyrrell — Anne Tyrrell Designs
Chief Executive — Caroline Rush
Operations Assistant — Alex Woodfield
We would like to thank:
April Glassborow — Harvey Nichols
Chief Operating Officer — Simon Ward
Averyl Oates — Harvey Nichols
Non-Executive Director — Anya Hindmarch
Erin Mullaney — Avenue 32
Hon Treasurer — Chris Inman
Faitha Habchi — LVMH
Office of CEO & COO
PR Executive — Ellie Wilson — Kim Carroll
Gary Edgley — Selfridges
Executive Assistant — Marcos Eleftheriou
PR Assistant — Will Rowley
Helen Davids — Harrods
UK & International Buyers Relations — Naoko Suzuki
Alexandra Shulman — Vogue UK Alison Edmond — Harpers Bazaar Caryn Franklin — Writer and Broadcaster Daniel Marks — The Communications Store Dylan Jones — GQ Emma Elwick Bates — Vogue Hilary Alexander — Daily Telegraph Iain R Webb — Freelance Writer Jane Boardman — Talk PR Jefferson Hack — Another Man Jeremy Langmead — Mr Porter Jess Cartner-Morley — The Guardian Laura Craik — The Times
Holli Rogers — Net-a-Porter
Head of Development — Louise Carter
Jane Sheperdson — Whistles
Joan Burstein — Browns Josephine Turner — A La Mode London Marigay McKee — Harrods Natalie Massenet — Net-a-Porter Rachel Proud — Topshop Susanne Tide Frater — Freelance consultant Bev Malik
The BFC is regularly approached to get involved with charities and is delighted to list fashion relevant charitable events on the London Fashion Week events schedule. Where appropriate the BFC offers advice and introductions to develop charitable opportunities.
Lauren Cochrane — Freelance writer
Lisa Armstrong — The Telegraph
Lorraine Candy — ELLE
The BFC has two charities: the BFC Princess of Wales Charitable Trust which provides scholarships for talented students requiring support to continue in further education and the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund which champions British talent and through support for designers assists in the relief of unemployment.
Lucy Yeomans — Harpers Bazaar
Andrew Bolton — Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute, New York
Melanie Rickey — Grazia Paula Reed — Grazia Robb Young —International Herald Tribune Sarah Mower — American Vogue.com and Vogue US Sophia Neophitou — 10 Magazine Stuart Higgins — Stuart Higgins PR Susannah Frankel — The Independent Suzy Menkes — International Herald Tribune Terry Jones — i-D Tiffanie Darke — Sunday Times Style
Claire Wilcox — Victoria and Albert Museum Professor Louise Wilson — Central Saint Martins Professor Wendy Dagworthy — Royal College of Art Frances Corner — London College of Fashion Design Christopher Bailey — Burberry Joseph Velosa — Matthew Williamson with special thanks to our advisory team Sarah Mower Talk PR Jenny & The Cat Club Andrew Tucker Stuart Higgins
Show Manager — Katie Bain Show Executive — Laura Hinson Events Events Manager — Caroline Reader Production Manager — Georgina Riley Events Assistant — Tessa Creagh-Barry Finance Accounts Manager — Lisa Wren Accounts Assistant — Shandrae Sampson Marketing Team Marketing Manager — Clara Mercer Marketing Executive — Marits Roberts — Rosanna Falconer Marketing Assistant — Ana MacCarrick
PR Team (Media & Buyers) PR Manager — Gemma Ebelis
Public Sector & Projects Project Manager — Emma Early Sponsorship Team Sponsorship Manager — Jenico Preston Sponsorship Coordinator — Kate Eastop Sponsorship Executive — Jennie Becker Business Support Business Support Manager — David Watts Consultants Strategic Consultant — Anna Orsini London show Rooms Project Manager and Buyers Consultant — Barbara Grispini London show Rooms Consultant — Antonio Fiengo Committee Chairs Colleges Council — Anne Tyrell Menswear — Caroline Rush — Simon Ward NEWGEN Committee —Sarah Mower, Ambassador for Emerging Talent Press Committee — Lucy Yeomans, Editor, Harper’s Bazaar
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL, SOMERSET HOUSE, SOUTH WING, STRAND, LONDON WC2R 1LA +44 (0)20 7759 1999 INFO@BRITISHFASHIONCOUNCIL.COM BRITISHFASHIONCOUNCIL.COM
TH BRIT FASH