January 11 – 17, 2017 Up Front News Opinion Cover Story Culture Sportsball Crossword Shot in the Triad All She Wrote
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CULTURE Giving a High Point restaurant its due by Eric Ginsburg
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he menu looks — at first glance — pretty bleak for vegetarians. “Looks like you’re having the fresh vegetables with bean curd,” I said to my friend Daniel, who sat across the table from me as we tried to pick our lunch entrees at Full Kee. The Chinese restaurant in High Point came well recommended, albeit by strangers, who noted my occasional griping about the lack of good Chinese food in Greensboro and urged me to come to High Point. Full Kee, the two readers wrote in emails about a year apart, is where it’s at. Daniel, a vegetarian who grew up in High Point, hadn’t been before either, but he said on our drive over that he’d checked online and the menu boasted a vegetarian section. When we arrived and he didn’t see it on the lunch menu, he asked for the full menu. No luck there, either. I’m not sure where he checked, but when I did my own search, I didn’t see a menu online anywhere. But Full Kee is actually full of vegetarian options; you just have to ask. Daniel ordered the chef’s special orange beef lunch but subbed in tofu, and when he picked fried rice to go with it, our server was with it enough to check that eggs were okay. Full Kee predates my arrival in the Triad a decade ago — the restaurant opened its doors in 2005. It’s doubled in size since then, according to Full Kee’s Facebook page, which now has a full bar and offers “a humble atmosphere.” But this is no hole-in-the-wall takeout joint – though ERIC GINSBURG The spicy Szechuan shrimp with a vegetarian egg roll and fried rice is a worthwhile lunch option you can order carryout if you’d like. There are a few at Full Kee Gourmet Chinese in High Point. of those worth hitting in the area, my favorite being Golden Wok off of West Wendover Avenue not far into roll in the mustard. It sucker-punched both Daniel and kah bar next door, or after church around the corner of Greensboro, but most Chinese restaurants in the Triad I in the face pretty damn hard. Otherwise, ask for more the shopping center. are underwhelming. Full Kee is a full-on restaurant, heat if that’s your aim, or Beyoncé it and bring some of Full Kee isn’t as glitzy as 98 Asian Bistro, the best about equal in size to the worthwhile Sampan Chinese your own. Asian restaurant in High Point I’ve tried, and if I’m in Winston-Salem but with more natural lighting and Full Kee operates off Samet Road, right by the looking to try a spicy Chinese dish I’ve never had bemore thought put into the décor. intersection of Eastchester and Wendover, near Carter fore, I’m going to Captain Chen’s in northwest GreensSome of the tables at Full Kee are bright red, decBrothers BBQ and Sammy G’s Tavern (Greensboro and boro. But Full Kee can hold its own, most closely orated with “traditional good fortune inscriptions,” Winston-Salem residents: You need to try both these matching Sampan or Greensboro’s Chinese Kitchen, according to the restaurant’s Facebook page. Even if spots). Chef George Yu, who used to operate the Blue and that’s a compliment. you can’t read the characters, it makes for a more phoDiamond Restaurant in DC a few decades ago, moved Whether you’re looking for more common American togenic Instagram pic. And most of the other, larger to High Point and launched this family business back Chinese restaurant fare like lo mein, egg drop soup and tables feature rotund lazy Susans, ideal for a commuaround the time Barack Obama first saw a national General Tso’s chicken or something harder to find such nal dining experience. stage at the 2004 Democratic Nationas ma po tofu, Szechuan-style pork and Hunan fish, it’s Forget long, wooden community al Convention. all here. tables where you crowd in next to Visit Full Kee Gourmet And I have to agree with our two strangers. Give me a circular table Chinese Restaurant at readers who independently reached with a variety of entrees on a turntaout to sing its praises — Full Kee 3792 Samet Drive (HP) ble in the middle any day. Pick of the Week makes the grade. I opted for the Szechuan-style or find it on Facebook. We enjoyed a tasty and relatively shrimp, which comes with sautéed Tween cooking class: breakfast for dinner @ quiet lunch that Wednesday, as other zucchini, green pepper, bamboo Greensboro Children’s Museum (GSO), Friday, patrons came and went, never taking shoots, mushrooms and water chestnuts. Despite a 5:30 p.m. up more than a quarter of the restaurant’s dining star next to the menu item, it was more sweet than Kids ages 9 to 11 learn to prepare poached, scramroom. I imagine it gets busier for dinner, especially on anything, enjoyable mixed with the rice that comes as bled and fried eggs, as well as make fresh biscuits the weekends, when some come for the bar and others with a sweet potato and maple butter twist. More part of the lunch special. to unwind after the workweek. Maybe a few people info at gcmuseum.com. You want heat? Dip your complimentary veggie egg even walk in before or after hitting the Egyptian hoo-