WINE & SPIRITS
Riley's Spirits Within
Fabulous Antique Whisky Discovered! By Joshua Hurley, Riley's Wine & Spirits
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magine a large distillery. Hiding in its dark corners, covered by musty shadows, are forgotten barrels containing aged whiskey matured to a supreme level of smoothness. This is no fantasy—nor is it some concoction coming from an overblown imagination—this is reality. This week, Riley’s unearths three “Great Buys” brought to you by Buffalo Trace Bourbon Whiskey—The Experimental Collection: 1989, 1991 and 1993— very rare, small-batch bourbons. Located in Frankfort, Kentucky, Buffalo Trace is the country’s oldest distillery. Production began in 1773 by a colonist named Hancock Lee. In 1812, the distillery expanded by adding several new buildings and employees as well as increasing its distribution to include neighboring cities and states. 1870 saw Lee Distillery change not only its owner, but its name as well, becoming O.F.C. Distillery under Edward Taylor’s ownership. The year 1878 brought about more change with O.F.C. Distillery becoming the George T. Stagg Distillery with the name and the owner one and the same. The Stagg ownership brought about one very significant change—the addition of steam heating, which made his distillery the first climate-controlled distillery in the country. Today, the distillery’s name is Buffalo Trace, a name that comes from paths created by American bison that, centuries ago, made a crossing along the Kentucky River in Frankfort, a hundred yards from the distillery’s location. This path cleared the way for America’s early pioneers’ trek west. It was to honor this that the distillery’s top label, Buffalo Trace Bourbon Whiskey, was created. In 1998, Trace Distillery acquired the Old Charter Distillery, and it was then that during a routine inventory the last barrels were discovered. Some of these last barrels were either completely empty or tasted awful, but a handful survived the long-term aging to become exceptional small-batch bourbons called the Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection. The label’s individual years are offered: 89, 91 and 93 in a very limited supply.
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Relic number one is 1989. This “oldie” has been bottled from a scant seven barrels. This dark, amber-colored whiskey was put into the white oak barrels on November 17, 1989. As one would suspect, the two decade plus barrel aging makes oak the dominant character here, but dominance doesn’t translate into overbearing as full flavors of vanilla and caramel exist alongside it. Just call it a hard, homemade candy-type palate. Batch two is the 1991 label, which originates from eight surviving barrels. This batch went into the oak on October 29, 1991. This one is both a little warmer and spicier and contains a walnut flavor that’s complemented by a nice fruit-forward finish. The third and last batch is 1993. It also comes from only eight barrels that were put into oak on May 13, 1993. The youngest of the bunch is different with its rich and creamy texture. It tastes like some sort of “whiskey latte”, with vanilla making this concoction even more apparent. 1993 is perfect for a cold night next to the fireplace. The Experimental Collection is a very welcome addition to the small-batch bourbon whiskey selection at Riley’s. Try them all today. 1989 is $58.99 plus tax, 1991 is $54.99 plus tax and 1993 is $50 plus tax.