128
He isn’t afraid to play with flavours or give classic dishes a contemporary nudge (though, sadly for me, he only brings out the likes of sweetbreads and other obscure cuts for diehard offal parties who book ahead). Despite its roots in classic French technique, the menu boasts several mod-twist South American dishes, owing to Martin’s Ecuadorian wife. Scallop ceviche with crab mayonnaise, avocado and chilli popcorn looked a picture with tender purple basil leaves and coriander flowers. Traditionalists will love Martin’s fine twist on duck à l’orange: a duck and fig terrine with crisp shards of prosciutto, orange and brioche and a subtle fig and Earl Grey purée, all laid prettily on a slate plate. I enjoyed hearing tales of whole roast pig feasts that his wife’s family lay on for him when he visits, and how his mother-in-law cooks goat’s milk with sugar to make sweet, toffee-coloured dulce de leche, as well as the popular humitas (steamed ground corn cakes). If you like the sound of South American street food, choose the crisp chicken wings and chorizo, served with Martin’s take on humitas.
Smoked salmon, poached prawns, wasabi, miso chantilly, pickled daikon, tobiko caviar and mirin vinaigrette.