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and presented fresh fish, such as sea urchin, octopus, sole, and red mullet. They’re also known for their raw seafood, including a delicate carpaccio of swordfish, sea bass, and deep-sea shrimp. The house specialty is spaghetti with lobster. Sometimes the headwaiters will prepare wriggling crab or scampi on the grill right before you. In summer, French doors lead to a small dining terrace. Via delle Coppelle 5–6, 00185 Roma. & 06-6879389. Reservations required as far in advance as possible. Main courses 25€–40€ ($29–$46). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7:30–11:30pm. Closed Aug. Bus: 44, 46, 55, 60, 61, 62, 64, or 65.
EXPENSIVE ITALIAN Part of the fun of this restaurant involves wandering through historic Rome to reach it. Inside you’ll find delicious food and an engaging mix of Italian Renaissance and imperial and ancient Rome, thanks to recycled columns salvaged from ancient monuments by 16th-century builders. Modern art and a hip staff dressed in black and white serve as a tip-off, though, that the menu is completely up-to-date. Dishes vary with the seasons, but you might find fettuccine with shellfish and parsley; carpaccio of beef; various risottos, including a version with black truffles; and grilled steaks and veal. Especially intriguing is whipped codfish resting on spikes of polenta, or grilled ravioli stuffed with scorpion fish and served with pumpkin flower sauce. If you’re a seafood lover, look for either the marinated and grilled salmon or a particularly subtle blend of roasted turbot stuffed with foie gras. Desserts feature the fresh fruits of the season, perhaps marinated pineapple or fruit-studded house-made ice creams. The restaurant’s name, incidentally, translates as “divine mouthful.”
Boccondivino
Piazza in Campo Marzio 6. & 06-68308626. Reservations recommended. Main courses 12€–30€ ($14–$35). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 1–3:30pm; Mon–Sat 7:30pm–midnight. Bus: 87.
ROMAN/INTERNATIONAL This is one of the most acclaimed restaurants in Rome—and one of the very few to have a coveted Michelin star. Its 16th-century building is a classic setting in pristine white with accents of wood. The Troiano brothers turn out an inspired cuisine based on the best and freshest ingredients at the market. Their menu is seasonally adjusted to take advantage of what’s good during any month. Start with caramelized tuna fish with chestnut honey, ginger, green pepper, rosemary, and green apple purée. Other tantalizing menu items include tagliatelle with a white pork ragout, wild asparagus, and ginger; or stuffed sole with Roman-style artichokes, Sevruga caviar, shallots, clams, and cream. Salt cod is prepared according to an old Roman recipe with tomato confit, olives, and Jerusalem artichokes.
Il Convivio
Vicolo dei Soldati 31. & 06-6869432. Reservations required. Main courses 21€–31€ ($24–$35). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 8–11pm. Bus: 40 or 64. Metro: Piazza di Spagna.
Montevecchio ROMAN/ITALIAN To find this place, you have to negotiate the winding streets of one of Rome’s most confusing neighborhoods, near Piazza Navona. The heavily curtained restaurant is on the Renaissance piazza where Raphael and Bramante had studios and where Lucrezia Borgia spun many of her intrigues. The entrance opens onto a high-ceilinged room filled with countrystyle decorations and bottles of wine. Your meal might begin with a strudel of porcini mushrooms followed by the invariably good pasta of the day, perhaps a bombolotti succulently stuffed with prosciutto and spinach. Then you might choose roebuck with polenta, roast Sardinian goat, or veal with salmon mousse. Each of these dishes is prepared with flair and technique, and the food takes advantage of the region’s bounty.