NEAR ANCIENT ROME
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vegetables. Among the more delectable desserts are crème brûlée and Neapolitan babba, filled with liqueur. Via Aurora 10. & 06-4742779. Reservations recommended. Main courses 12€–19€ ($14–$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–3pm and 7–11pm. Metro: Barberini.
SpeKids BOLOGNESE/EMILIANA-ROMAGNOLA/ROMAN cializing in the cuisines of Rome and the region around Bologna, this place is named for Césarina Masi, who opened it in 1960 (many old-timers fondly remember her strict supervision of the kitchen and how she lerockythepig ctured regulars who didn’t finish their tagliatelle). Although Césarina died in the mid-1980s, her traditions are kept going by her family. This has long been a favorite of Roman families. The polite staff rolls a trolley from table to table laden with an excellent bollito misto (an array of well-seasoned boiled meats) and often follows with misto Césarina—four kinds of creamy, handmade pasta, each with a different sauce. Equally appealing are the saltimbocca (veal with ham) and the cotoletta alla bolognese (tender veal cutlet baked with ham and cheese). A dessert specialty is semifreddo Césarina with hot chocolate, so meltingly good that it’s worth the 5 pounds you’ll gain. Césarina
Via Piemonte 109. & 06-4880828. Reservations recommended. Main courses 7€–18€ ($8.05–$21). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11pm. Metro: Barberini. Bus: 52, 53, or 910.
Colline Emiliane Finds BOLOGNESE/EMILIANA-ROMAGNOLA Serving the classica cucina bolognese, Colline Emiliane is a small, family-run place—the owner is the cook, and his wife makes the pasta (about the best you’ll find in Rome). The house specialty is an inspired tortellini alla panna (with cream sauce and truffles), but the less expensive pastas, including maccheroni al funghetto and tagliatelle alla bolognese, are excellent, too. As an opener, we suggest culatello di Zibello, a delicacy from a small town near Parma that’s known for having the world’s finest prosciutto. Main courses include braciola di maiale (boneless rolled pork cutlets stuffed with ham and cheese, breaded, and sautéed) and an impressive giambonnetto (roast veal Emilian style with roast potatoes). Via Avignonesi 22 (off Piazza Barberini). & 06-4817538. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses 11€–15€ ($13–$17). MC, V. Sat–Thurs 12:45–2:45pm and 7:45–10:45pm. Closed Aug. Metro: Barberini.
Near Villa Borghese, this restaurant Finds ITALIAN draws discerning palates seeking food and wine at a reasonable price. It’s a sophisticated setting for masterfully crafted dishes composed of fresh ingredients. Look for pastas like rigatoncelli with fresh tuna, peppers, capers, and cherry tomatoes; and trofie with clams and zucchini. Meat dishes include grilled chicken breast served with mixed salad, Parmesan cheese, and balsamic vinegar; and steak on a bed of radicchio (baked and flavored with green anise).The bar is one of the hottest places in Rome on Tuesday nights, when it features live jazz.
Testa Food & Wine
Via Tirso 30. & 06-85300692. Main courses 12€–29€ ($14–$33). Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 8pm–midnight (bar open until 3am). Bus: 2U, 2E, 3, or 19.
5 Near Ancient Rome To locate the restaurants in this section, refer to the “Dining Near the Spanish Steps & Ancient Rome” map on p. 119.
EXPENSIVE Crab SEAFOOD Eating at this trattoria is ideal after a visit to the nearby Basilica of San Giovanni. As you enter, you are greeted with a display of freshly