Boulevard Magazine - October 2012 Issue

Page 83

though a brisk wind herds in clouds from the west. To the south the peaks sit like a concert audience, shoulder to shoulder in rows as far back as the eye can see. In the middle is Mount Olympus, the highest in the range with an elevation of 2,400 metres and resplendent in a mantle of glacial snow and ice. AUTUMN IS IN THE ALPINE AIR Our chosen trail — to Hurricane Hill — begins at a parking lot two kilometres past the visitors’ centre. Autumn is a fine time to be here: the air is cooler and infused with evergreen. Scattered carpets of rock-hugging lichens blaze red. Summer visitors have all gone home. The trail meanders along on an ancient mountain spine. The path is broad and safe but at times the ground falls away on both sides, sloping gently to an open meadow or plunging down to the shadows below. “This place is magical,” we keep saying to each other. So magical that it fills the senses and gives sudden clarity to the short list of things that are and always have been important in life. The 200-metre climb is gradual and eventually the groves of thin conifers give way to craggy outcrops and meadows full of golden grasses and seedpods. Near the top the wind turns surly and bullies us into our gloves and extra layers. A few steps higher you can often see full circle, including Juan de Fuca Strait and Victoria in the distance. But not today, since clouds languish in the valley corridors. Somehow it makes our experience even more compelling. On the trek back we ponder the unspoiled nature of this place. A century changes everything for a family but nothing at all for an alpine sanctuary like Hurricane Ridge. Travel Information Hurricane Ridge is the most easily accessed mountain area in Olympic National Park, thanks to the great road from Port Angeles. To learn more and plan your visit, visit the Olympic National Park Hiking Page at www.nps.gov/olym/index.htm. Trails range from easy to strenuous. Ours was relatively easy at five kilometres in total, of which the first half kilometre is paved and wheelchair accessible. Check the weather, which can change rapidly at the top of the mountain, and dress in layers. The Port Angeles Chamber of Commerce (portangeles.org) has information on lodging, dining, attractions and upcoming events. We dined on local fare at Michael’s Seafood and Steakhouse and were not disappointed. See michaelsdining.com. The Coho ferry generally sails twice daily. For fares and sailing times, go to cohoferry.com/main/?Fares. Reservations, especially from Victoria, are advised and can be made online or by phone. Cyclists may want to sign up for the annual summer ride up to the ridge on a day when the road is closed to vehicles. Details at portangeles.org/ride-the-hurricane.html. A valid passport is your best ID. VB

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