REC/NEWS REC S C OTT M AR C HANT
ISLAND ADVENTURE Vancouver Island’s Juan de Fuca Marine Trail SCOTT MARCHANT
Elkhorn yurt near Idaho City.
You don’t have to travel halfway around the world to find world-class adventure outside of Idaho—just head north. Our northern neighbor, Canada, is the second-largest country in the world, boasting 7 percent of the world’s land mass. Within this outdoor Shangri-la lies the largest island on North America’s West Coast— Vancouver Island. This sparsely populated island is known for its diverse ecosystem and has roughly 100 Provincial Parks and 50 Ecological Park Reserves. From stunning rainforests to spectacular beaches and rugged mountains, some of the The Juan de Fuca Marine Trail lets hikers experience the seclusion and dramatic vistas of most captivating scenery in all of Canada can Vancouver Island. be found on the island, and best of all, it’s relatively accessible. A three-hour ferry ride tions only crossable at low tides. trail. Much of the route weaves through from Seattle to Victoria—the island’s largest The most-strenuous segment of the trail old-growth forests with huge sitka spruce, city—or a short flight will get you there. is from China Beach to Sombrio Beach at Douglas fir, Western hemlock and cedar The southwestern coast of Vancouver mile 18. The route is up and down again, trees. Cliffs and reef shelves provide unimIsland is home to two extraordinary hiking however, muddier sections slow travel. Near trails, the West Coast Trail and the Juan De peded views across the Juan De Fuca Strait Sombrio Beach, the rough trail traverses a and beyond to the Olympic Mountains in Fuca Marine Trail. Every year, hikers from Washington. Wildlife, including black bears, high cliff requiring handholds, but higharound the world descend onto the more lights of this segment include the suspension cougars, orca and gray whales, seals, sea famous WCT for sensational vistas, long lions and eagles can often be seen. Think of bridges over Loss Creek and Sombrio River. stretches of open beaches and world-class, Sombrio Beach is a top-notch surfing this hike as a walk through a mature rainold-growth forests. But the 47-mile route location and can be accessed from Highway forest with occasional visits to a dramatic has a few challenges—it is recommended 14, so expect to see a few surfers. Camping beach. for experienced backpackers only, is only is available at the beach, and hikers will From the eastern end of the 29-mileaccessible from May through September, again need to cross portions at low tide. long route, hikers start at the China Beach has difficult trailhead access, enforces a The final 11 miles of the trail are relaTrailhead, just west of the small community daily quota that often fills up, and requires tively level, but muddy sections are more of Jordan River (43 miles west of Victoria a trail use fee of $70. common and the forest is younger because along Highway 14). This easy portion of Although geographically close to the the hike leads more than one mile to Mystic of logging in the 1980s. Boardwalks, ladWCT, the newer Juan De Fuca Marine Trail, established in 1994, sees a fraction of Beach, where hikers can find camping and a ders and interpretive signs are more prolific as the trail heads west, and hikers will cross waterfall. Beyond Mystic Beach the terrain the use of the WCT but provides a comseveral suspension bridges. becomes more rolling and reaches Bear pelling alternative. Reservations are not The Botanical Beach trailhead is located Beach at the 5.5-mile mark, where hikers needed, there is no limit on the number of at mile 29. Near the trailhead, hikers will will need to plan hikers, and there is find Botany Bay and Botanical Beach, where ahead for an extenno use fee beyond a extensive tidal pools provide a glimpse into sive segment only $10-per-night campaccessible at low tide. the area’s rich ecosystem. ing fee. Four access Access: Several airlines fly from Boise to Victoria, B.C., and ferry service The small but quaint community of One of the more points allow the trail leaves from both Anacortes, Wash., physically challenging Port Renfrew is a few miles from the to be broken into and Port Angeles, Wash. Once in Victoria, Botanical Beach trailhead. Since both portions of the hike smaller journeys and drive west on Highway 14, one to two hours, is from Bear Beach to the WCT and Juan De Fuca trailheads access is year round. to one of the four trailheads. are nearby, the community relies heavily China Beach, across The route does on summer tourism and is home to a few seven miles of undurequire some beach hotels, bed and breakfasts, restaurants, outlating terrain. The crossings that can door stores and gift shops. Think the charm trail is rarely flat—ascending and descendonly be made during low tide, but tide tables are available at waterlevels.gc.ca and ing 300 feet or more as it meanders between of Stanley but replace the Sawtooths with the Pacific Ocean. creek beds. There is little opportunity to at information kiosks along the trail. Whether you day hike or backpack the camp, and beach access is virtually imposScenery along the Juan De Fuca is sible. However, the outstanding old-growth Juan De Fuca Marine Trail, be sure to put spectacular. A rugged, rocky shoreline is forest and vistas compensate for the rugged this one on your hiking to-do list. This is home to countless tidal pools and secluded workout. Camping is found at China Beach one of the finest adventures in the Pacific beaches, and waterfalls and streams appear and the trail traverses a couple of beach sec- Northwest, if not in North America. around every bend on the coast-hugging
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FIGHT THE FEVER It usually hits sometime in February— that sensation that if you spend one more day stuck in town, you will completely lose it and cause some sort of unfortunate scene that you’ll regret once spring—and your sanity—return. In most circles, it’s called cabin fever, and somewhat ironically, a cabin might just be the cure. Well, a cabin or a yurt. Even if you don’t have the cash to escape to a posh ski resort or tropical island, you can still get away from it all if you’re willing to do a little planning and just a touch of roughing it. Idaho’s backcountry is dotted with cabins and yurts. While some are available through private backcountry guides, there are several options that will keep the cost down even more. The Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation maintains numerous backcountry yurts in the Idaho City area, all of which are within a three-mile snowshoe or cross-country ski from a Park-and-Ski location. Here’s the good news: The yurts sleep up to six people, are furnished and are stocked with much of the gear you’ll need. And, best yet, they rent for $75 per night on weekdays and $90 per night on weekends. Here’s the bad news: The yurts are booked out on weekends through the end of March, and only a smattering of mid-week dates remain open. Still, if you can take off mid-week, here’s your chance at escape. For more information, visit parksandrecreation.idaho.gov. If you’d rather head to the McCall area, the University of Idaho’s McCall Field Campus is offering winter yurt and cabin rentals to the public. The campus is in Ponderosa State Park and on Payette Lake, with easy access to the area’s miles and miles of Nordic and snowshoe trails. Of course, if you’re more interested in speed, it’s also close to Tamarack Resort, Brundage Mountain Resort and The Little Ski Hill. There’s a mix of accommodations at the campus, including bunkhouse units that sleep up to eight people and rent for $55 per night; a cabin that sleeps up to four people and rents for $80 per night with a two-night minimum; and a yurt that sleeps up to four and rents for $49 per night with a two-night minimum. Groups of 15 or more can even arrange to have meals served. For information or reservations, visit uidaho.edu/cnr/moss. —Deanna Darr
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