my trip to...Las Vegas
65
In the firing line Steve Hartridge spends a day in revitalised downtown Las Vegas, exploring some of the must-see attractions away from The Strip
T
he mechanic in the dirty overalls looks up from behind the boot of a rusty Oldsmobile, clenching a heavy-duty spanner. He takes a menacing step towards me. “Stop right there, and drop the tool,” I command, my CO2 pistol now drawn. But he ignores me and moves a pace closer. “Drop to the floor NOW or I will shoot,” I yell, my extended arms pointed directly at him and my finger twitching on the trigger. He makes a sudden move – and I fire. The mechanic drops to the ground and is motionless. A voice from above says: “Well, done, you have successfully completed your training”. With perspiring palms, I emerge into the light of the foyer of the Mob Museum (themobmuseum.org), having just experienced one of the facility’s newer attractions: the Use of Force Training Experience, based on the type of instruction that real Las Vegas law enforcement officers receive. Featuring ‘criminal actors’, the ‘situations’ are very real-to-life and my heart is still racing. I am spending a couple of days seeing some of Las Vegas’ alternative attractions, away from the bright lights and malls on The Strip. I say alternative but the Mob
Museum (full name The National Museum of Organized Crime and Law Enforcement) is now a must-see stop on any Vegas trip. Since it opened in 2012, it has regularly added interactive attractions – you can even ‘electrocute’ yourself in an ‘electric chair’ – to its exhibits that tell the warts-and-all story of organised crime’s impact on Las Vegas and its unique imprint on America. Before leaving I drop into The Underground, a basement-level Prohibition history exhibition and speakeasy, for a bourbon shot in its distillery.
Up in bright lights It’s a short Uber ride to the Neon Museum (neonmuseum.org), a ‘boneyard’ spread over a 2.6-acre outdoor area, also located downtown. The headline acts are the 150 or so oversized decommissioned and nonrestored neon signs that once lit up casinos, hotels and other businesses in the city. It’s an eclectic mix of the kitsch, burlesque and retro-modern – think Golden Nugget, the original Aladdin’s lamp from the Aladdin Casino and the Silver Slipper – for which the city is known. Take a tour after sunset to see some of the signs lit up. The visitor
centre is housed in the restored lobby of the defunct La Concha Motel.
A taste of downtown That evening I explore more of the revitalised downtown area on a food tour. I have been on several of these, in various cities, where the tiny portions on offer have left me looking for the nearest Subway on the walk back to my hotel. But that’s not the case on a Lip Smacking Foodie Tour (vegasfoodietour. com), which makes stops at up to four top restaurants. The idea is to introduce visitors and locals alike to the best signature dishes and exciting new tastes in Las Vegas, whilst a guide imparts their knowledge of the city through a series of anecdotes about its rich history. At each restaurant, I am treated like a VIP as I am shown to a reserved table and served three or four signature dishes. After eating curry at an Indian, pizza at an Italian and Dim Sum at a Chinese – all top-notch restaurants – there is little room for pastries and cake at our final stop. It’s been a full day, but I have had a fulfilling taste of Las Vegas’s ‘other side’ in more ways than one.
The Neon M useum
Museum The Mob sellingtravel.co.uk
Las Vegas destination update.indd 65
8/27/19 12:58 PM