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a sonoran road trip
possible mission
Lynn Houghton takes a road trip from Tucson to its southerly neighbour Hermosillo, Mexico, two destinations that share the distinctive terrain of the Sonora Desert
T
all, slightly stooped Saguaro Cactus surround the perimeter of the Tohono O’Odham cemetery, acting as grizzled, gnarled sentinels. The cactus’ outstretched ‘arms’, full of spikes and thorns, discourage visitors from coming closer. Atop this rich, red land is an historic white adobe structure, the San Xavier Bac hurch, which has existed here for well over 200 years. The earth and church dominate the landscape, their terracotta and white colours in stark contrast to the backdrop of a searing hallucinogenic blue sky. About a mile away, a shop is selling produce. Run by the San Xavier Co-op, ancestral crops are grown nearby on what was once privatelyowned farms of the reservation: topiary beans, 60-day corn, and squash including brightly coloured yellow Canary Squash. The co-op trains
young members of the tribe to use these ingredients in their cooking. Mesquite flour, extracted from the pod of indigenous mesquite trees, is proving popular for baking. The Tohono O’Odham reservation, near old Tucson, is just part of a mix exuding Wild West ambience and charm. This includes Tucson’s regenerated downtown, with its artisans’ district and authentic eateries that draw visitors in droves. Some restaurants, such as the Cup Café, are based in quirky locations like the Hotel Congress, famous as the last hangout of escaped criminal John Dillinger, captured here in the early 20th century. Outside of town, tribal lands stretch across the U.S. border deep into the Mexican state of Sonora. There is no fence nor delineated border. Due to a special treaty with the U.S. government, people and animals cross back and forth unrestricted as they have done for thousands of years. Indeed, 25 million Mexicans cross into Arizona via Nogales every year, to shop and eat in Tucson.
Over the border
Arizonans also cross the U.S. border to reach their nearest beach, Rocky Point, which lies on the azure tinged Sea of Cortez; a body of water renowned for bountiful sea life. But I travel a further 400 km to visit Kino Bay, the coastal shore of the city of Hermosillo. Kino Bay serves up a mindboggling variety of seafood in its local restaurants, including oysters, octopus and marlin. El Pargo Rojo’s (1426 Mar de Cortez) ceviche and shrimp-stuffed toritos are quite simply to die for and clams sold in shacks near the water are ridiculously fresh. A bit of lime and salsa squeezed into a newly priced-open shell gives an extra zing. In Sonora, Mexican Cowboys (Vaqueros) take on an almost heroic status and have influenced the cuisine here. So, it’s no surprise that carne asada (grilled beef) is king. Hermosillo Restaurant Mochomos Fusión Senorense is known for pushing the boundary on traditional dishes and is the place to try out unique cuts of pork and
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My journey Phoenix and Mexico.indd 44
29/11/2018 16:07