COOKING FOR REAL LIFE

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hen cooking for children, you take your chances. What they do or don’t like at any given moment is as random as a shower on a sunny day. They can declare themselves to be starving and only nibble at a crust, or uninterested then tuck into a full-sized steak. They can loathe spinach for months then clamour for it, or turn off rice when it’s the only thing left in the house. Some will happily nibble on anchovies and olives before the age of one, others will not get much beyond buttered pasta for years. In principle, I don’t believe in ‘kids’ food’. Children should, as soon as they can, take part in family meals, learn to sit still at the table, and take on grown-up textures and flavours. That’s the theory, anyway. But in all honesty, as a parent, what you most want is simply to get them safely and happily through the day. As far as food is concerned, that means making sure what they eat is wholesome, nourishing and appealing. This chapter is packed with recipes for food that, by and large, children love. All recipes are written to feed four adults, partly because it’s almost impossible to say what a child’s portion should be, and partly in the hope that you’ll all be eating together. You will find here the smooth, round flavours and soft textures that few will turn their noses up at, small shapes that are easy to manage for small fingers, dishes to dip into, slurp up and crunch on. There are a few gentle challenges, too, hints of spices and sauces to take them a little further afield, but nothing too demanding. It is lowest-common-denominator eating at its best. It should also present few challenges for the cook. Children’s food should not be demanding to make – not only because it’s dispiriting if you’ve laboured only for it to be refused but also because if you become resentful over it, it introduces a power play. Cook it quickly, and simply, make it delicious, and move on. If it tastes good enough for you to eat, it’s good enough for them. If they won’t eat it, clear it away and say nothing. How you eat is an important part of growing up, but it’s only a part of it. No drama.

good for kids

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