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P r ofe s s i o n a l S e w i ng Te c h n i qu e s fo r D e s i g n e r s
Extended Contents P r e fac e
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Ac k n owle dg m e nts style key
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The Design Process: Why Construction Should Matter to the Fashion Designer 1 Key Terms 1 Style I.D. 2 Gather Your Tools 2 Now Let’s Get Started 2 The Fashion Designer 3 The Importance of Having Construction Knowledge 3 The Design Process 5 Review Checklist 13
Fabric Preparation 32 Placing the Patterns On Grain 34 Cutting the Fabric 43 Thread Types 45 Sewing Machine Needles 47 Serger Needles 51 Hand Sewing Needles 52 The Sewing Machine 52 The Serger 54 Let’s Stitch 55 Project Preparation 60 Pressing Equipment 63 Test-Fit Muslin 64 Pressing 65 Transfer Your Knowledge 67 Stretch Your Creativity 67 STOP! What Do I Do If . . . 67 Self-Critique 68 Review Checklist 68
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Getting Prepared: Avoiding Snags 14
Introduction to Stabilizers: Fabricating a Stable Foundation 69
Key Terms 14 Style I.D. 15 Gather Your Tools 15 The Dress Form 16 Now Let’s Get Started 16 Know Your Fabric 17 The Patterns 23 Math for Fashion Designers 23 Seam Allowances 28 Hem Allowances 32 Layout and Cutting Fabric 32
Key Terms 69 Style I.D. 70 Gather Your Tools 70 Now Let’s Get Started 70 What are Stabilizers? 70 Why Use a Stabilizer? 70 Types of Stabilizers 72 Where to Use Stabilizers 77 How to Judge if a Garment Needs a Stabilizer 79
How to Choose the Best Stabilizers for Your Project 82 Cutting Stabilizers 84 How to Apply Stabilizers 88 Interfacing Tricky Fabrics 92 Transfer Your Knowledge 95 Stretch Your Creativity 96 STOP! What Do I Do If . . . 97 Self-Critique 99 Review Checklist 100
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Seams: Joining It All Together 100 Key Terms 101 Style I.D. 102 Gather Your Tools 102 Now Let’s Get Started 102 Let’s Prepare to Stitch 105 Let’s Practice Stitching 105 Let’s Begin to Stitch 108 Open or Closed Seams 112 Safety Stitch 114 Shaped Seams 115 Piped Seams 118 Eased Seam 123 Gathered Seam 124 Topstitched Seams 124 Sandwiched Seam 129 Intersecting Seams 129 Other Seam Finishes 132 Some Essential Hand-stitches Used for Stitching Seams 138 More Advanced Seam Stitching 141