Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers, 2nd edition, by Julie Cole & Sharon Czachor

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T he D e s i g n P r o c e s s

F I G U R E 1 . 5 S T R U C T U R A L D E S I G N : W AT E R P R O O F R A I N C O AT

the collar is high enough to provide warmth

seams, topstitching, hemstitching, buttonholes, button stitching need to be good quality construction and hold the garment together

the fabric is waterproof and the coat large enough to wear over other garments

the coat is long enough for protection from the elements

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uncomfortable clothing. Actress Cameron Diaz knows how important it is to wear a gown to the Oscars that feels like a second skin. She said, “These dresses are works of artisans, and the way that they fit and the way they hold on to [your] body, you know who you’re dealing with when you put it on your body.”5 Here are a few practical tips pertaining to some areas of functional design that the designer needs to attend to when designing clothes: • The closure of a garment must work simply and efficiently. Buttonholes need to fit comfortably over the button and not feel too tight or too loose. Snap closures need to hold the garment securely closed. Dysfunctional closures that easily “pop” open are not going to sell. All of the garments in Figures 1.4, 1.5, and 1.6 have closures—do take a look at them. • A pocket needs to be positioned so the hand enters at a comfortable level. The size of the pocket needs to be generous enough for the hand to rest in it, and maybe hold keys and some cash. Notice that the pants in Figure 1.4 and the raincoat in Figure 1.5 show comfortable, adequately sized pockets. Chapter 8, “Pockets,” will explain more about the placement and size of pockets. • A skirt vent must be long enough to allow a person to walk easily. Similarly, a jacket vent allows room for the jacket to spread when a person is sitting. Figure 1.4 illustrates how important a vent is for functional design in a jacket and skirt. Refer to the section in Chapter 17, “Vent.”

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