The medieval tailor's assistant

Page 7

Boy's gown Girls' kirtle and gown

HEAD-WEAR

Men's hats and caps Materials Coif Cloth hats: three styles

Men's hoods Materials Basic hood Hood with front opening Hoods as hats Bag hat Chaperon

Women's linen head-dresses Materials and making up Kerchiefs Fillet Wimples Tailed cap

Women's cloth head-dresses and hoods Materials Cloth veil Open hoods: early and later styles

182 184 187 188 188 190 191 192 192 192 193 194 194 196

Round hoods: two styles Black head-dress 'Gable' head-dress

202 203 204

Women's fashionable head-dresses

205 205 205 207 207 208 209 210 211 212 213 215

Materials Making up Barbette and fillet Frilled veil Caul Templers: early and fashionable Cut-away caul for wide templers Separate horns: broader and taller styles Large horns: earlier and later styles Henins and wired veil Butterfly head-dress

197 197 197 198 199 199

ACCESSORIES Belts, purses and pouches Materials and fittings Gloves and mittens Mitten and split mitten

Aprons Jewellery Hand luggage Glossary Suggested reading Suppliers and information

200 200 200 201

216 216 217 218 218 219 219 220 221 223 223

List of plates Colour Frontispiece. Tailor, 1320-1330 10. Early 14th century surcote 12. Mid 15th century pleated gown 13. Back view of pleated gown

123 152 153

6. Early 14th century cote 7. Mid 15th century doublet and hose 8. Back view of doublet in Plate 7 9. Scene from mass baptism, 1468 11. Court dance, 1465 14. Fixing the gown pleats, Plates 12, 13 15. Detail from Plate 9 16. Woman in Overkirtle, c.1440 17. Passover scene, c.l320 18. Building the Tower of Babel, 1423 19. Chaperon, mid 15th century

Black and white 1. Lined edge finished in stab stitch 2. Fastening for a mitten sleeve 3. Partly buttoned mitten sleeve 4. Dagged edge of chaperon in Plate 19 5. Rural workers, early 14th century

49 56 57 60 74 7

81 98 99 103 134 155 158 166 179 186 195


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