12
Lining Lining, Fig 12, Pl 1 The lining is normally cut to the same shape as the outer layer of the garment. If you don't use a complete pattern for the garment cut the outer material and use this as a pattern for the lining. Make up the lining separately. Put it inside the garment with the wrong sides together, smoothing the layers and pinning them along the seams (Fig 12, Pl 1). Turn in the seam allowances round the edges, tack the two layers together and stitch them from the right side. This method will avoid the bag-like effect, especially for large hems, that can be produced by machining in the lining from the wrong side. For doublets with eyelets round the lower edge, cut extra seam allowances on the outer material and fold this to the inside for 2-3 cm. Make the lining correspondingly shorter (Fig 12). For long garments with wide hems it is best to pin or tack the lining in as described, leaving them on a hanger or dress-stand overnight to let the skirts drop. Stitch the lining into the neck and armholes, and sleeves; lay the garment flat and smooth the two layers together, matching the seams and pinning if necessary for their whole length. Trim both layers level, leaving 3-5 cm seam allowance, and turn in the two edges before stitching them together. If you prefer, fold the lining slightly shorter than the outer fabric and hem it down. Despite the length it is still worth finishing the hem by hand: if the lining eventually starts to sag and show round the edge it is easier to unpick.
12. Lining The inside of a doublet with the lining pinned in place. Pin, tack, and stitch the lining to the garment round the collar, waist seam and armholes before hemming or top-stitching the edges. Shorten the lining at the lower edge so that the eyelets (to attach hose) can be worked through the unlined folded edge.
Lining close-fitting sleeves An alternative lining method for close-fitting set-in sleeves, as on a doublet (Doublets, Fig 9), is to make up each sleeve with its lining, finish off the wrist edge and the shoulder puff (if included), and set the completed sleeves into the armholes. Make up the lining of the body and pin it into the outer layer; turn in the seam allowances round the armholes, and hem the lining into place. This is a good alternative with any set-in sleeve.
Facings
Use narrow strips of linen or plain silk, perhaps 3 cm wide (with narrow seam allowances), but allow enough width for any buttonholes. Join the strip to the garment edge at the fitting line on the right side of the fabric, turn it to the inside and hem down the folded edge. Fig 21 shows a faced edge with buttonholes.
Facings are used to neaten edges on the inside of unlined garments. The medieval tailor used narrow facing strips, cut on the straight grain, since shaped ones were unknown. Being narrow they could be eased round curved edges without much difficulty.
51