bites FOOD REVIEWS
Roast HHHH Western. 3/F, The Commons, 335 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-185-2865. Open Mon-Thu 10am-11pm; Fri-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 9am-10pm. F. BBB
Welcome to Bangkok brunch nirvana. When Roast first opened in 2011 at Seenspace, it kickstarted a lazy Sunday exodus from hotel buffets and into lightfilled Thonglor cafes brimming with midcentury furnishings, dangling light bulbs and industrial coffee equipment. The food didn’t always get the same attention as the lattes, but it was always a nice place to waste an afternoon. Since Roast’s relocation to the top-floor of The Commons, the Finn Juhl knock-off furniture has been given the boot in favor of cool concrete monochromes, s u bway t iles an d smo k y o rbs of incandescent light, while the menu has had an even more impressive makeover. Out go boring side salads and humdrum comfort classics in favor of dishes that
City Skyline HHHH American. 36/9 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-6644300. Open Mon-Fri 7am-8pm; Sat-Sun 7am-2pm B-BB
Less than six months old, owner/chef Katherine Aphaivongs’s no-frills American diner in Asoke has struck such a nerve it has already spawned a second branch in Thonglor. We stress the “no-frills” part. City Skyline’s main plus is its lack of pretension; aside from one eye-catching neon sign outside, this poky, over-lit space is almost completely hipster reference-free. (Even the full-blown country soundtrack on our last visit was strangely refreshing.) The hearty, allAmerican comfort food sticks to theme, too, though there are ups and downs. On offer from as early as 7am, breakfast is arguably where the restaurant shines brightest. More than just novelty value, the biscuits are lumps of flaky, buttery goodness that come swimming in a milky sausage gravy (B155), while the syrupy, six-inch pancake stacks (B115) are just that, and not one of those crazy, creamy concoctions Bangkok’s cafe set is fixated on. But there’s a strange sweetness to
keep the comfort while also delivering in flavor, size and produce—crisp, rustic fries, tender steaks, fresh salads and eggy brunch dishes that embarrass most other cafes. A panzanella salad (B240) of cherry tomatoes, red onions, bell pepper, anchovy and croutons brims with the flavor of quality olive oil and sharp, juicy tomatoes. A seafood risotto (B420) leads with plump mussels and tender squid, along with a rich mascarpone sauce cut with citrus and saffron. The corned beef hash (B280) actually looks like it does in the Kinfolk-worthy menu photography, complete with abundant shards of moreish dried beef and a perfectly poached egg. This level of quality doesn’t come cheap. Knock back a couple of crisp gruner veltliners (B300/ glass), finish dinner on the excellent single-origin French press (B140), and that lunch date could hit you for near 2K; but there’s no denying Roast delivers on its prices. Of course, a whole heap of the clientele here waltzes right by all the foodie highlights and straight to the giant stacks of waffles and pancakes (B260-320). These are great too, but don’t dismiss Roast as just another one for the coffee-hopping photo gangs. This place turns out serious food to go with the flat whites.
many of the staple dishes that’s slightly off-putting, from the coleslaw (B85) to the ribs (starting from B355 for a quarter rack). These ribs feature meat that comes clean off the bone, but the sticky-sweet sauce masks a lack of smokiness for us. Burgers are a fairly barebones affair (no pickles and you’ll have to add cheese to most), yet the homemade barbecue sauce and pineapple on the Phuket Burger (B315) make an unlikely but excellent combo. The less said about the bone-dry beef patty, the better (no one’s asking how you want your meat done, here). The mac n’ cheese can be ordered “loaded” (B395), which means piled high with pulled pork, though we feel both are better ordered alone. In all, this is ordinary food done well enough, though we’d like less of the frozen pre-cut fries and more of the home-style touches like in the heavily breaded and crunchy onion rings. Of course, booze could make the situation better (there’s none, despite a picture of beer on the menu), as could extended opening times (it closes at 2pm on weekends). To be fair, these issues have already been addressed at the new Thonglor branch, which operates as a counter at a Commons-like food court called The Society Fair (Thonglor Soi 10), where there’s a craft beer wall and a midnight closing time. Aside from the breakfast plates, late night is when we see City Skyline’s carb-heavy food working best. That said, your afternoon will be instantly better with a frosty chocolate milkshake (B145) and a slice of apple pie (B125).
Ratings
Price guide
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B BB BBB BBBB
Forget it Only if you’re in the neighborhood A pleasant dining experience Not to be missed BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
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H Reservations recommended F Parking available E Dress requirements G Live music BK Magazine Friday, February 17, 2017
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