Village highlight
This church was built in 1436 and one of the first built in Malta following the end of Saracen rule, at a time when churches started being built above ground. Like most early churches in Malta it is a thorough mixture of architectural styles with idiosyncratic additions here and there. Linger awhile in this square, gentle reader. Sit on one of the benches in the shade of a tree and let your imagination wander. I did, and would not have been the least bit surprised if a knight had come out of the door of the church while another one crossed the square, sword in hand. In the beautiful little square the appearance of Grand Master Hompesch himself would not have astonished me. He was very fond of visiting these casals and he is affectionately remembered for being able to speak Maltese. As you idle through the town you will see that niches have been erected on walls, façades, street corners and outside people’s homes. Żejtun has its share of chapels as well. If you enter by the motorway from Bir-id-Deheb you arrive at Vittorio Bonnici Square and the chapel of St Angelo, built in 1670. In the sacristy there is an urn containing the remains of this Carmelite martyr. Many votive chapels and small churches have been built in fulfilment of vows or in thanksgiving for graces received. Sanctuary lamps are kept lit because of some annuity. In a less secular age people donated fields from the rents of which feasts could be celebrated and panegyrics preached. St Clement church in Żejtun was built by Clemente Tabone in 1658. He built it to fulfil a vow he made when he was attacked by a band of marauding Turks as he was riding past where the church stands now. As he lived to tell the tale he built the church in thanksgiving. There are other versions of this anecdote. Punic, Phoenician and Roman tombs containing pottery among other artefacts, have, over the years, been excavated in and around Żejtun. It is in these towns that one remembers that Malta is a real country, not an artificial resort area created for tourists. Sitting around the church or the doorstep of their homes, walking to church or to the grocer’s, most of these people seem to enjoy in inner peace. “In their breasts, all their lives, long resteth a peace that passeth understanding.” They are quietly absorbed in the lives of their family and their town. They care very little for whatever it is going on in California!
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