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November 2020
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you can feel the cool air start to fall down the mountain and this continues to fall throughout the night. If you are on the mountain at this time you can actually feel the shift of direction and the different temperature of the air.
Photo credit Scott Christensen
USING YOUR NOSE TO FIND ELK
Early in the morning, the air is still falling down the mountain, which is why elk usually make their way uphill to bed with the thermals hitting them in their face. This allows them to smell any danger that may be near their bedding area as they head up the mountain. Depending on the day and cloud cover, at some time in the morning, when the sun is heating up the mountainside, the thermals shift and the “warmed” air moves up the mountain. By this time, if everything went as planned, the elk have arrived in their bedding area and will be able to smell any danger that comes from below or that was following them. If any danger comes from above the elk, they can quickly drop in elevation and escape.
By Jake Horton
Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
hen elk hunting, most hunters understand that elk have W an excellent sense of smell. As hunters, we go through a lot of effort to stay down wind, to enter an area correctly
and avoid that nose. What you do not often hear about is using our human noses to hone in on an elk or elk herd in an attempt to get close enough to harvest them, especially during archery or muzzleloader season when getting close is the name of the game. Using your nose and sense of smell can allow you to find elk even when they are not vocal. And it can work — even in the thickest country where you leave your optics in the truck. Elk stink If you have ever killed an elk, been close to a herd, came up on a fresh elk bed or used an elk attractant scent you understand that elk have a very distinct and undeniable scent that stops you in your tracks. For those of you who have not smelled elk, the scent has been compared to a lot of smells, but, personally, I think it compares to the strong musk of cattle. The scent of elk can be attributed to their urine and other glands that produce liquid and musk, stink from wallowing and just being a wild animal. Understanding that elk have this distinct scent that is strong — especially when they are together or nearby — will help you become a better elk hunter. When you smell elk they are often close or on an upwind path. Knowing this scent can lead to a still hunt or stalk if played correctly. Keeping the wind in your face and trying to stay in the elk scent path will allow you to walk in the right direction to where they are or were without them smelling you. With experience, you can almost smell the difference between a few or a lot of elk and guesstimate how close you are to them. The wind and thermals are very important to being able to smell these animals and need to be understood. Understanding thermals and how elk use them Many hunters talk about thermals and wind direction and how to use them to your advantage by keeping them from carrying your scent to where the elk are. Some of you may be wondering what thermals are or do not have a clear understanding of how they work. The most simple definition of thermals with regard to hunting in the mountains is a directional flow of air that is a result of air warming or cooling. It is common knowledge that hot air rises and cold air sinks which, in a mountain setting, moves air up and down the mountain slopes. When there are no strong winds and thermals are the only air movement as the sun goes down,
4| Hunting & Fishing News
Photo credit Jake Horton
Late in the afternoon, before the sun goes down, elk will head down in elevation with the afternoon thermals in their face, smelling any danger that is in their nightly feeding destination. This technique helps elk stay alive; however, if used to your advantage, can make elk more predictable and can allow you to smell the elk. All of this information comes with a disclaimer stating that if there is a prevailing wind, the rules of thermals still apply, but may create a swirling wind situation that usually gives the elk an advantage.
Using your nose and thermals to your advantage The elk use these thermals to their advantage so why do we not use them more? Well, I do and here is how I put them to work for me. In the morning as thermals are still dropping, come under an area where you suspect elk are and take a whiff. Do you smell elk? If so, slowly move up the mountain and try to keep the scent of elk in your nostrils. By the time the thermals switch and the elk are in their bed you should be close or on a parallel with the herd. Then you can call, stalk or wait until they switch their pattern and go down the mountain in the afternoon. No matter what you choose, you have made it, hopefully undetected, into the elks’ bedroom. The same strategy works in reverse throughout the day. During the late morning and afternoon when elk are bedded in thicker, dark timber or pockets of timber, still hunt above these areas. Whenever you get to a good side hill where you can feel the thermals hitting you in your face and coming up the mountain, stop and sit down. Give it a minute or two to try and smell any elk that may be below you. Often, if day hunting from a trailhead, I will head out to the field around noon and get above or on parallel where I think elk would bed. (continued on page 33)
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has been a devastating fire season here in Colorado and Iouttthroughout the west. A big thanks goes to the firefighters there battling these blazes and we continue to think of
the communities, families and individuals affected by this year’s fire season. As hunters, fire brings a mixture of good and bad news. Here in our home state of Colorado, a number of hunting units are almost entirely closed due to active fires. Many hunters have had to completely change their plans. But on the other side of these events, fire provides healthy regeneration for our forests. In many cases, it improves wildlife habitat. Wildfires have certainly been a large part of the story this year. We’ve heard a lot of hunters ask questions about hunting burn areas. Here’s some of what we’ve experienced when it comes to hunting burns: How Soon Can You Hunt a Burn? With recent fires, hunters often wonder how long it takes before animals will move back into that area. Can you hunt a one-year-old burn? Or does it take longer? The regenerative growth after a fire will vary from one fire to the next. Some fires burn extremely hot. After an intense fire, it may take years or even decades for the forest to recover. However, some fires may only burn the understory, leaving standing trees intact. A few years ago, I was hunting elk in New Mexico near the end of September. A part of the unit had burned in June, only three months before our arrival. To our surprise, there were already green shoots growing throughout the burn – and the elk were taking advantage of it!
Photo credit Ryan McSparran
6| Hunting & Fishing News
Here in Colorado, one of my favorite spots to hunt is a much older burn. I don’t even know when this area burned, but I’m guessing it may have been 20 years ago. Now, the area is covered in tall grass and littered with old deadfall. The downed trees make travel through the burn difficult and the elk love it. No matter when the burn occurred, don’t count it out. The best way to find out if the hunting will be productive, is to do some scouting. If grass, aspen shoots or young oak brush have begun to spring up, you’re in business. How Should I Hunt A Burn? In areas with large burns or where the burn was very intense, there may be a lack of cover for wildlife. In these giant open areas, your best bet might be to hunt the perimeters. If this is the case, focus your efforts on those edges where open grassy terrain meets the protection of standing timber. Elk may be found feeding in the burn in the mornings or evenings, while retreating to the timber during the day. In these large and expansive burns, glassing can be a very effective way to locate animals. Look for vantage points that allow you to see long stretches of the burn’s edge. If you see animals feeding out into the burn, you’ll know where you ought to set up for the next morning or evening hunt. Just make sure that you’re downwind from where those animals appeared. In areas where you find small burns, or where the fire only burned the understory, don’t hesitate to use the entire burn area to your advantage. In these areas, there’s no need to stick to the perimeters. Just recently, I was elk hunting an area that had burned three years prior. However, the fire had left the ponderosas standing and had only cleared the thick oak brush below. With new grass and young oaks coming up, the interior of this burn was loaded with elk. Again, the best way to find out what’s going on in any particular burn area is to do some scouting. If the aerial imagery is recent enough, you can get your information from Google Earth. However, if the burn is more recent you may need to visit the area in person before you decide how to hunt it.
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Scout it and Make a Plan If there are burns in your hunt area, use all the tools at your disposal to scout the area and make an effective plan. We highly recommend OnX Hunt for scouting and planning. The fire layer will show burns in your area and when the fire occurred. In many cases, old burn areas won’t show up on the map layer. Likewise, very small spot fires may not register. With that in mind, be sure and use the satellite view in your OnX map to find these unmarked burns. Likewise, Google Earth is a great tool for finding old burns or small spot fires. Just this September, we hunted an area with a small spot fire. Perhaps caused by lightning, this little burn was only 200 yards across. Thanks to satellite imagery and e-scouting efforts, we knew this little burn was up on the ridge – and we found elk there on the first day of our archery hunt!
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huntingfishingnews@yahoo.com www.huntingfishingnews.net The entire contents is © 2020, all rights reserved. May not be reproduced without prior consent. The material and information printed is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. Nor does this material necessarily express the views of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. All photo & editorial submissions become the property of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. to use or not use at their discretion. Volume 17 Issue 7 Cover Photo: depositphotos.com
Hunting & Fishing News | 7
HUNT SAFE: Survival Tips For Big Game Hunters By Roger Phillips, Public Information Supervisor IF&G
very hunting season, hunters get lost in the woods, E and while most escape no worse than tired, chilled and hungry, the hazards of being lost in the woods shouldn’t be
underestimated. Hunters can take precautions and prepare for an unexpected situation in the woods. Know the area you’re hunting - Always be conscious of your surroundings, prominent points, river or creek drainages, and occasionally turn around and look behind you so you will remember what it looks like when you’re coming back. If you’re on a trail, don’t hesitate to put a temporary marker at intersections. Things can look different on your return, especially if you return in the dark. Don’t rely solely on electronics - Devices like GPS, cell phones and two-way radios are handy, but dead batteries and other malfunctions render them useless. A map and compass are low tech and less likely to fail, but you also have to know how to use them. Tell someone your plans and set a check-in time - Often hunters are out longer than expected, especially when they are pursuing big game animals far from a road. You may want to set an absolute deadline and have someone who can alert the authorities if you haven’t returned, or contacted someone by that time. Ditto for your hunting partner. Hunters often get separated, so set up a rendezvous time and place and decide in advance when a third party will seek help if you or your partners do not return in time.
8| Hunting & Fishing News
Watch for extreme weather changes - You’re more likely to get lost or turned around in poor visibility when it’s raining, foggy or snowing, which are also conditions when it’s potentially more hazardous to be lost in the woods. Cold, wet weather can mean the difference between an uncomfortable situation and life-threatening one. Remember even on clear days temperatures can change dramatically. A warm, sunny afternoon can quickly drop to subfreezing after dark, and daily temperature swings of 30 to 40 degrees are fairly common during fall. Dress for, or carry clothes, for the worst weather you’re likely to encounter. Daily temperatures can swing 20 to 40 degrees between day and night during fall. It’s also common to quickly go from warm and sunny to raining or snowing. Dressing in layers is a good way to account for weather changes, and wearing a daypack means you can stash clothes when they’re not in use and keep them handy when you need them.
ELK GALORE
Photo courtesy Mike Hanback www.bigdeerblog.com
Avoid cotton clothing, which is comfortable when dry, but provides no warmth when wet. Modern, synthetic fabrics will insulate even when damp or wet and will typically dry faster when they get wet. They are more comfortable in nearly all conditions than cotton. Wool is also better than cotton, and modern merino wool is itch-free and comfortable in a wide range of temperatures.
5 Deer Hunt Tactics For Thanksgiving
Be prepared to build a fire - Whether matches, lighter or other devices, carry a fire starter that’s weatherproof, and it never hurts to have a backup. Know how to start a fire in all weather conditions, but remember cold weather doesn’t end fire season, so never leave a fire that’s not completely extinguished.
ou and millions of other guys and gals have a few days Y off this week, and for many of you this is the last best chance to get your...buck. After stuffing your face Thursday,
(continued on page 38)
By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com
get out there and try these tactics. •Hunt where two or three ridges converge and peter out into a creek or river bottom. The thicker the cover in the area the better. If food sources are anywhere close by, the spot will be a dumping ground for whitetails. Set a gun stand or blind on a vantage 100 yards or so downwind of a convergence of hills and draws and watch for a day or two. If and when a burly shooter rolls by, take him. •Look for the narrowest point between two blocks of woods, and set a stand or blind to cover it. When crossing a crop field or pasture many bucks will run the choke point between the two timbers or thickets, thereby minimizing their exposure in the wide open. Stay on your toes and be ready for a quick rifle or muzzleloader shot, because bucks generally trot or flat-out run from point A to B. Stop one in the open middle with a big grunt if you have to. •“X marks the spot” can be your deadliest rut tactic if you’re still archery hunting. Follow an old scrape line to a spot where it cuts a major doe trail deep in the woods. There you should find thrashed saplings and more weeks-old scrapes. Hang a stand on the downwind side of that intersection. Even though bucks won’t be working the scrapes now, one or two will still prowl through the area, looking to hook up with a last receptive doe. You will see bucks; one might be a shooter. •You can glass, scout and follow all these great strategies to a tee and it won’t mean squat if you hunt in an area with a lot of other people. Pressure changes everything, especially with mature bucks. If you hunt pressured private ground or a block of public land, let other hunters have the fields, creek funnels and other “best” spots. You check an aerial map, Google Earth or a hunting app and go the thickest, roughest hell-holes a half-mile or more from where others hunt. That’s where the mature bucks will go to flee the pressure. Hunt deep inside there. •If you have an understanding boss, push it and take off December 2 and 3 too. With everybody back to work, you’ll have the woods to yourself, even on most public lands. Mature bucks that hunkered down in the pressure of Thanksgiving week will feel more secure moving a bit, and you might get one yet.
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Hunting & Fishing News | 9
You know which option I prefer.
……………………………………
……………………………… I enjoy hunting Dall’s Sheep as much as any species I pursue, and they are found high in the mountains of the Yukon. The Yukon is a place where snow can happen in any month of the year, so I’ve developed some techniques to make the most of my time out there. While these sheep are white, they carry a yellow tinge when you compare them to a pure white snowfield. Rather than looking for white sheep, I have my eye tuned to this yellow tinge. This small mindset change is much more effective than you might guess, and your eyes will see them pop a bit more this way.
By Greg McHale Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com
Sheep tend to avoid the snow when they can, so looking for open faces of grass and even rock will be high-percentage locations to search first. As you travel the mountains, be aware if south-facing slopes are opening up. Check your maps and head for vantage points that will allow you to glass the faces showing snow melt. Sheep will prefer to bed and feed where they have ready access to snow-free ground.
here are times you are going to experience a lot of snow on the ground. This can happen because you’ve signed up for a winter hunt: Kudos to you if you are out there when most people are hunkering down to watch Netflix. Other times, this can happen with a freak snow event or pure bad luck. When it happens, you have two options: Option 1 is to turn tail, go home, and complain to your buddies about how lousy it was out there. Option 2 is to get after it, and use smart glassing techniques to create an adventure.
You may not be fortunate to have snow-free areas. In this case, you will be forced to look for animals traversing snowfields and searching for tracks. While tracks are difficult to read from afar, you may be able to identify a direction of movement with your spotting scope. In this case, follow the tracks to their end, and there’s a chance you will find a sheep there. Even if you have snow-free areas, you should move on to the snowfields and look for tracks if you’ve come up empty in the open areas.
Photo courtesy Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com
PRO-TIP: GLASSING IN SNOWY CONDITIONS T
Outdoor Inspired Loans.
When the snow melts, you’re going to be tempted to avoid glassing in the snowy areas. All of us are inherently lazy, and glassing snow for sheep isn’t ideal. When the snow is only partially melted, and you have sporadic open areas, it’s even more difficult, as you need to look for yellow sheep on snow and look for white sheep on rock and grass. Your brain needs to switch between these two modes of searching. You need to stay disciplined and continue to glass the snowy parts of the mountain.
These tips will help you make the most of winter and fall hunting. It’s much better to return home with a great story of hardship and suffering, possibly with a trophy, than to return home with excuses. Watch a video here: https://youtu.be/kuEZlCpHvwE
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10| Hunting & Fishing News
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1978-80 Jeep. Photo courtesy Tom Cooper
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here do I start to tell the story of a 1952 Willy’s Jeep? W Let’s try 1979. We all know the ‘52 started it’s life long before that, but in 1979 this Willy’s entered my life. So, why
is a ‘52 Jeep important to readers of a hunting magazine? The answer is pretty easy: it’s used for hunting! One of my old hunting partners, an Air Force officer I was stationed with in northern Utah, had found this Jeep in a farmer’s pasture and talked the owner into a sale. At this point in its life the ‘52 was sort of baby blue with a leaky, rust primer, hard top. Sure it needed a little maintenance to get it running, but run it did. The engine was a small Ford V-8. No question about plenty of power for a light vehicle. In addition, there was a roll bar and an 8000 pound winch on the front bumper. Clearly this Jeep could climb trees. My hunting partner wanted everything working, and found a reputable mechanic for the job. New bearings and seals, along with fresh lubrication would make this a mountain machine. We arranged to tow the Jeep back to his driveway with my van. We left the repair shop and proceeded about 10 blocks, when I saw a wheel, tire, and half an axle trying to pass me on the left side. It crashed into some shrubbery. Sure enough when we stopped, we found the ‘52 only had three wheels; the left rear was in the shrubbery. But the Jeep was fine, balanced between three wheels and a trailer hitch. We returned to the shop, where we learned of the mechanic’s replacement of rear wheel bearings, and while not finding any problems, when he re-installed the left rear wheel and axle, he was short one important cotter pin. Anyway back on the road, and just before opening day, we had the ‘52 ready. First Hunt was an Adventure For the Utah elk opener, three of us planned to camp for two nights. However, on the morning of opening day, we woke to about 12 inches of fresh snow. The weather was mild so we expected things to melt pretty fast. But melting would mean the five miles back to the highway would be muddy, very muddy. We hunted for a couple of hours, none of us saw an elk or any tracks, and we returned to camp and started putting things away. The number of vehicles leaving ahead of us had turned our dirt road into a long quagmire. My van was simply not suited for this road condition. So we reconnected the Jeep to the van. With my partner driving our “pusher” Jeep, it was a pretty exciting trip to the highway. We made it, but not everyone did; some drivers were organizing an effort to rent a tractor (tracked) to tow vehicles that were stuck several miles back from the pavement. It wasn’t the best elk opener, but we were home safe and dry, due in part to our new friend, the ‘52. (continued on page 14)
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5 Best Treestand Locations For The Rut By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com
hen the calendar flips to October 25, whitetail W bucks morph from guarded, secretive creatures to prowling, scraping fiends. In the first days of
November they start hassling and chasing the does; they lock down with the girls for a week or so after that. Big deer pop back out for a few days and cruise for a last girlfriend, before going back to the feed and hiding out for good in December. This progression is as predictable as it is swift. You need to tailor your setups to each phase of the rut to take advantage of the changing buck behavior. Oct 25—November 1 Buck behavior: The rubbing continues as bucks maul trees and mark their core areas, now with more vigor. The hard-core scraping begins; multiple bucks paw and rub-urinate at the same scrapes. Solitary old bucks become more ornery and aggressive with each passing day, though they mostly stick to their core areas. Hot seat #1: Get going early Earlier in bow season, the best hunting was in the afternoons around food sources. Now, hunt hard in the mornings. Look for a small clearing in the woods, some 50 to 120 yards off a field of alfalfa, beans or clover. It might be an old log landing, strip of abandoned logging road, grassy glade…you get the idea. Slip in and set a tree stand on the downwind edge of the opening. As the rut approaches this week, many deer move off fields at first light and gather in these clearings to posture and sniff each other before heading deeper into the woods to their bedding area. Some bucks spar while others push the does around. A few years ago, I hunted such a stand on the edge of an overgrown log road 70 yards off an alfalfa field in Montana. At sunrise I glassed out into the field and saw 10 deer coming my way. Five bucks got to me 20 minutes later and started to posture and push does round my stand, grunting like market hogs. Finally I was able to draw my bow and smoke one of the 10-pointers. It was one of the best mornings of hunting I can remember, and that is when a “first clearing” became one of my favorite rut sets. November 2-10 Buck behavior: The seeking or trolling phase is in full swing. Bucks begin to expand their range, wandering out of their core areas to scent-check does. Around November 4, give or take, the seeking phase launches into the chase stage. If a hot doe smells right, she’ll attract several bucks. During the next weeks, bucks may lose 25 percent of their weight as they dog and breed does.
Hot seat #2: Get a good view One late October day, Brent Ireland’s buddy missed a monster buck on a ridge that overlooked a soybean field. Bummed, the guy pulled his stand and moved to a new location. But Brent figured the giant was still around, so he hung a new stand on the ridge and hunted it. On November 6 a stick cracked. The Indiana bowhunter turned and saw the buck—a double drop-tine titan! Brent’s arrow was true. The rack netted 199 non-typical. This week there is no better spot for your stand than on an elevated ridge near a field of beans, corn, etc. A ridge is a staging area near where the doe feed and a hub of buck traffic. Both local and vagabond bucks cruise the ridge, rubbing, scraping and sniffing out does. Much of this activity will occur at night, but some big deer start to move earlier in the evenings, and linger after sunup this week. Set your stand on a corner or edge of the ridge where the access and predominant wind are best. There’s a good chance you’ll see at least one good buck and maybe more. Brent Ireland passed a 150-inch giant on the ridge the day before he killed Double Drop. November 11-19 Buck behavior: Some bucks still chase, but this is the week when most mature does enter their estrus cycle. The woods might go cold overnight as bucks and does lock down and breed. In a few days, deer will start moving again, signaling the end of major breeding. Some bucks prowl again for a last girlfriend, though not with the same intensity they did a month earlier. Hot seat #3: Having been hassled by bucks for weeks, many does sneak out into CRP fields Thick cedar ditches and other out-of-the-way spots where the boys cannot so easily chase them anymore. Also, a mature buck knows when a doe is on the verge of standing for him. He’ll herd her out in the same type of cover, pin her down and stand guard for 36 hours or so, until he finally gets his way with her. With that in mind, set a stand to overlook a CRP field or similar weedy habitat where you can glass 100 yards or farther into the brush for breeding deer or loner bucks prowling for a doe. The challenge is to hang your perch for a 30-yard shot. Set up to watch a deer trail that comes out of the woods to the weeds, or on a fence line, gap gate or similar funnel. If you see sustained deer activity 100-200 yards out in the high grass and weeds, don’t be shy to move to where the action is. Glass for a cedar or ironwood out in the middle that might hold a stand, though a good tree can be tough to find in this type of habitat. Or look for a spot where you can work into the wind for a ground ambush. If you spot a big-racked buck standing goggle-eyed and drooling over a doe, stalk him. If the wind and cover are right, getting within 40 yards is doable if the doe doesn’t bust you. Key on her as much as on the buck.
Photo credit depositphotos.com
November 20-30 Buck behavior: The rut winds down and the post-rut begins. Some spotty chasing and breeding still occur. Some bucks check scrapes they used back in October, though the secondary scraping phase is much less intense. But most bucks head for cover to lie up and recuperate. All deer hit the best last food sources. NOTE: This is the week when lots of gun hunters hit the woods; the pressure factor moves the rut-weary deer deeper into cover and turns them yet more nocturnal. Hot seat #4: Study Google Earth or an aerial of your land Mark in red spots where guys park their trucks and drive 4-wheelers into the woods, both on your hunt area and on bordering lands. Avoid the pressure zones. Look for thick, remote “buck holes” a half-mile or farther away from the pressure points. It might be a rough, rocky draw with thick cedars…or a half-acre beaver swamp with waist-high dead grass…you get the picture. As you look for these spots, keep in mind that the deer have to eat now. Ideally, there will be a corn or soybean field or other major food source within a couple hundred yards of a hole. Sneak back toward the cover and set a tree stand on a trail or funnel that leads in the direction of a food source. If you can set up in or near thick honeysuckle or other vegetation where deer might stop to browse, all the better. Hunt morning or afternoon. It takes time, work and smarts to find and hunt the buck holes, but that is how you fill your tag at the tag-end of the rut. Hot Seat #5: The Universal Rut Stand If you are a bowhunter who likes to hang one stand and hunt it patiently all rut, try this spot. Look for a ridge 100 to 200 yards off a corn or bean field and back in the timber. Scout and set your stand where a series of thin ridges, flats, shallow draws and a winding creek come together. This spot is a dumping ground for deer throughout the rut. Sneak in and sit all day. Morning or afternoon, you might spot an 8-pointer trolling on a finger ridge, nose to the ground, a 10-pointer trotting down a hollow, or a doe running with 3 bucks on her heel. Keep an eye on that creek and the cover around it because deer will travel up, down and across it all rut. Hunt this one stand for 10 or more days this November, and I can almost guarantee you’ll see at least one shooter and likely more.
Hunting & Fishing News | 13
A Shooter’s Life
(continued from page 11) Shooter Is his Name Our first kill using the Jeep was a small four point mule deer. We removed the head to carry the meat to the Jeep and then happened to put it in the driver’s seat prior to towing. When we arrived at a fast food drive-through in Logan, UT, just before midnight, we placed our order and pulled ahead. The attendant asked three or four times what the next vehicle wanted, but did not get an answer. When we picked up our food, we explained the guy in the Jeep was actually a deer, and he was not hungry anymore. About a week later, after re-telling our hunting story a few times, we decided to paint a deer profile (very small, 2-3 inches long) on the fender. As my friend admired our silhouette, he commented it reminded him of a small shot glass. His next comment: let’s call the Jeep, “Shooter.” The name stuck and we hunted with Shooter for two seasons (3 deer on the fender). At that point my partner was assigned to Germany and towed Shooter to property in Texas, anticipating more hunting when he returned. I hunted one additional season in Utah, without Shooter, before I too had an assignment to Europe. Three years later I was assigned to Utah a second time. Shooter’s owner had decided to sell his Jeep and I wanted it. We met in New Mexico, made the exchange, and I towed Shooter back to northern Utah. Now Shooter was painted rusty red (all primer), with no top at all. I installed a white, weather-proof canvas top. It helped, but wasn’t very warm. Shooter and I hunted with several Air Force comrades over the next three seasons. We added a couple more deer and one elk to Shooter’s fender. My next assignment found me headed to Washington, DC. Shooter was stored in a garage belonging to my wife’s grandparents in Ennis, MT. Three years later, I retired from the military, and we moved to Helena, MT. It wasn’t long before I went to Ennis and towed Shooter to his new home. While Shooter was along for the ride (tow) on a couple of occasions when we harvested a deer or elk, most of the places I hunted did not require Shooter’s level of 4-wheeling capability. Instead I found on most of the mountain roads I explored, I could drive my wife’s van (ok, sometimes with tire chains) to a wide spot in the road then hike from there. However, during the summer when scouting new hunting areas and roads, I towed Shooter as far as practical, then the Jeep did the rest. One of the more eventful outings, with my Dad as a passenger, included elk and moose in the headlights. Unfortunately, it also included about 45 seconds in the dark without benefit of any lights. The road was narrow and steep, but at this spot it also made a significant s-turn (left, right, then left again). When we hit a bump on the last turn, the lights came on and we were in the middle of the road. We both started to breathe again. Shooter’s Tow Bar Incident On one particularly calm and sunny summer morning, I decided to forgo the tow and elected to drive Shooter to a drainage about 15 miles from home. It was early, I expected little traffic and would drive slow on the way up the canyon. Unfortunately If you don’t check the bolt holding the tow bar in it’s upright position, most likely nothing good will happen. But you stop, surprisingly quick. Both mounting brackets were bent, and the tow bar was almost vertical (down) and stuck in the gravel road. The front tires were 4-5 inches off the ground. Later, I also found all the radiator fan blades were bent a tiny bit at the tips. After determining I was alive and not hurt, I backed off the tow bar. I used rope to tie the bar in it’s “new” up position, which was really straight ahead, like a battering ram. (continued on page 38)
14| Hunting & Fishing News
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EARLY Ice
WALLEYE Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
By Jason Mitchell Jason Mitchell Outdoors www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
E
arly ice is a prime window for targeting walleye. Classic early ice locations typically repeat the prominent fall locations. As a rule of thumb, good fishing in the fall often means good fishing at first ice. Tough fishing in the fall can often translate to tough fishing at first ice. Finding and catching walleyes right away in the ice season is often simply targeting locations where we put the fish to bed last in the boat. Fall fishing intel is some of the best intel for trying to find first ice walleye. Of course, there are perennial hot spots that for some reason or another just fish well right away. Mille Lacs comes to mind along with Upper Red Lake. As a rule of thumb, most prominent destination fisheries fish well at early ice and perhaps the single biggest reason is simply the rest these fish have had. There hasn’t been a boat or auger above these fish sometimes for a month. Generally, some of the first anglers that land on some of these fish experience good fishing and the fishing generally goes downhill or gets tougher as people show up. By the time the ice can support a full-size pickup, these early ice bites are often history. Early ice walleye fishing is often all about first come first serve but do so with safety in mind. Here are a few tips that really seem to be prominent in our travels each winter...
Thin ice and thin water often means spooky walleye. Drill your holes ahead of time and let the spot settle down. The first anglers on a location often do the best and the bite typically falls off as a crowd gathers. Shallow shoreline structure seems to produce walleye on most fisheries at early ice. Probably a little bit out of necessity as the structure that is close to shore is some of the very earliest locations we can reach by either foot or with an ATV. Large prominent pieces of structure however that are connected to the shoreline often load up with walleye at early ice. My favorite locations are shallow reef complexes that are connected to the shoreline. Shallow might be five feet or fifteen feet depending on the water. Good bottom might be sand, gravel or rock but these types of spots just seem to produce walleye at early ice on many different fisheries. Shoreline points and flats that have a decent access to deeper water can all be good. If given the choice, I personally like to target the larger spots if I can get there first. These types of spots often fire up at sunrise, sunset or after dark and are done by the time a crowd gathers.
Aggressive lures and cadences trigger fresh fish. Much has been said about reaction baits or call baits that are used to trigger aggressive strikes and bring fish in from a distance. More so than the exact individual lure is that attitude. You can fish a ¼ ounce lead head jig aggressively and trigger fish. Early ice walleye can often be extremely aggressive and respond well to aggressive presentations. Use this to your advantage, not just for triggering fish but also breaking down water and eliminating dead areas. If you are fishing through fresh ice, be confident that if there are any fish around, some will meet you halfway and find you. More so than any time of year except for late ice, you can eliminate water so quickly. Loud rattles like the CPT Rattling Blade Spoon are deadly for ringing the bell. High action glide baits like the CPT Tikka Mino or vibration baits like the Salmo Rail Shad are all deadly for finding and triggering aggressive walleye. The noise factor can be a big factor at early ice. Noise can kill a bite at any time of year but the severity of noise seems heightened at early ice when you are dealing with a lot less ice on what is often shallow water. We have seen many situations where walking with ice cleats spooked fish away. There have also been times when dragging a Fish Trap or sled on the ice shut down the spot. Obviously, you must make some noise to set up on a spot but be conscience of noise and try to keep noise to a minimum. If you can, drill a lot of holes where you plan on fishing a good hour or so before the anticipated prime time. Get set up off the structure with your ATV and gear and walk in with your auger. Walk softly and try not to drag or drop anything on the ice. Use a head lamp and be careful with bright light when fishing after dark. When fishing through locations where there is thin ice that is clear enough to see through, slow down and let the spot settle down as you fish. Spooking fish that are bumping off your presence often need five to twenty minutes to come back so it can be easy at times to miss fish by moving too aggressively in thin water on top of thin ice. Remote lines like tip ups can play a huge role on shallow walleye at early ice. Doesn’t have to necessarily be a tip up but tip ups are just so deadly as a remote set line. When fish are spooking and not letting you get over the top of them, tip ups can save the night. Situations where we have seen this become prominent are fisheries with less than eight inches of clear ice over crystal clear water. If you can see through the ice and see bottom in eight feet of water as you are walking out on early ice, set out as many tip ups as you legally can. We have seen times when the tip ups became such a factor in this type of situation where we ended up setting out every tip up we legally could and literally sat on shore twiddling our thumbs waiting for a flag to pop up. Larger creek chubs and sucker minnows are ideal especially after dark or when targeting big fish. Don’t be afraid to get up higher than halfway in the water column in shallow water after dark. Avoid Wind Turbidity. Wind is often cliché with walleye fishing during the open water season but really strong winds right at freeze up can really disrupt some fisheries at first ice. Forty mile per hour winds right at freeze up can have a major effect particularly on small, shallow dish bowl type lakes but we have even seen this wind effect on much larger fisheries like Lake of the Woods. There are a couple of indicators of this phenomenon. Jagged broken up ice that is stacked up and extremely dirty and turbid water. When you can’t see the bottom of the ice when fishing on four or six inches of ice, you are going to have really tough fishing and the best bet is to simply pick a different lake. Forty mile per hour winds can churn up a lake at any time of year but normally that stirred up sediment clears up in a handful of days. When the water gets colder and denser however, that sediment hangs in the water much longer
Early ice walleye can often be extremely aggressive. Break down locations with aggressive lures worked on hard pounding cadences to bring fish under you. The Clam Pro Tackle Tikka Mino is a deadly glide bait that has a zinc fin that causes the lure to slide out further on the upstroke. Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell. www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
and can take several weeks to clear up. Obviously, these lakes will fish better as winter progresses and the water clears up. The early ice period produces great walleye fishing but fishing early ice can be much different than other times of the year. Fish can be extremely aggressive but easily spooked. Reports will often be limited so fall fishing memories are often the best starting point. Prioritize ice safety and always have flotation, rope and an ice bar or ice chisel for checking the ice thickness as you walk. While many of the classic walleye bites happen at sunset or shortly after dark, get out plenty early so you can drill your holes and let the commotion settle down. No doubt there are few things as rewarding as landing the first big walleye of the winter through four inches of clear ice where you can actually see the fish fighting through the ice several feet to the side of you. Landing big walleye through a hole in less than six inches of ice is tricky because the fish don’t turn and can sure back up easier. Reach your hand below the ice and pin them to the bottom of the ice. THE ULTIMATE FISHING EXPERIENCE.
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Hunting & Fishing News | 15
¬
I remember Berkley making a predator rod in the Dave Genz Lightning Rod lineup that was a great rod at the time but the rod was discontinued after a few years. Once that rod was discontinued, the only good option was Thorne Brothers. When we developed the Mackinaw Baitcasting Rod, we incorporated a spiral or Robinson wrap where the guides started on top of the blank near the reel seat and rotated around the bottom of the rod blank. The idea for that design came from the late Ed “Backwater Eddy” Carlson. I can still remember showing the rod design to bait and tackle shops with puzzled looks. I will never forget one occasion where I showed the rod to a tackle shop owner... “You have some serious issues with quality control,” explained the shop owner. His face was wrinkled as he ran his fingers down the rotated guide train.
Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
Lake Trout Popularity By Jason Mitchell www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
trout are a fascinating fish to target through the Lhasake ice and I would dare say the popularity of lake trout grown immensely over the past decade. When we
first developed the Mackinaw series of ice rods in our Jason Mitchell Rod lineup back in 2005, there were very few rods on the market designed for lake trout fishing. The niche was small at the time. The rods being marketed as predator or lake trout rods at the time had too short of handles and the actions weren’t heavy enough. The options were either pool cue stiff fiberglass rods that featured three guides or getting a rod built in a custom rod shop.
I explained the purpose of the rotated guide train and his expression changed. The grimace turned to a smile and he told me, “I’ll take twenty of them!” The spiral guide wrap became popular as many ice anglers switched over to braided line when fishing for lake trout over deep water. The spiral wrap allowed a smoother line route to the baitcasting reel when the rod was loaded up and the guides collected a lot of the ice at the rod tip. Line wasn’t as apt to wrap around a guide. In our quest to build the ultimate lake trout rod, we took a few risks. The challenge back than was simply numbers, at least stateside. One of the biggest markets for our very first Mackinaw rod at that time was the Lake Superior fishery. We also had some pockets of lake trout anglers in northern Minnesota and upstate New York. We were selling ice rods to small bait and tackle shops but sales for that rod action blew up when anglers in Canada discovered the rod. We soon began selling the Mackinaw Series in many of the big box retail stores and other rod companies sat up and took notice. Several other rod companies began selling a more seriously designed predator rod and the competition was ultimately good for the consumer. Since that beginning, lake trout have become a much more sought-after fish... What has really drove the increased popularity of lake trout in my opinion is that more anglers are willing to travel today. Once you get bit by the lake trout bug, you find yourself driving to reach them every winter. Today’s world is just so much smaller than even twenty years ago. There is more information available. There is better and more reliable equipment. Anglers aren’t as intimidated to venture to remote areas. There are more guides specializing
in lake trout ice fishing today. When we first developed the Mackinaw Series back in the day, we worked extensively with the late Jim Hudson on Lake Superior. At that period, there were very few guides who specialized or spent any significant time targeting lake trout through the ice in the United States. There was so much less information available and the learning curve was much longer and steeper. Lake trout had a mystique and we were ecstatic if we caught a single lake trout in a day of fishing. Enter a vast exchange in information courtesy of the age of internet that includes so much technical advice. Enter better mapping and understanding of deep structure. Enter better equipment with more anglers using that equipment. There was a time when a simple auger rack on a snowmobile was a new novelty. There was a time not that long ago when having tracks on an ATV was unheard of. In some regions, there weren’t even any overnight lodging options available. Lake trout fishing can still be difficult, can still be remote and as we often joke, “the highs are high and the lows are low” but there is no doubt… these destination adventure trips are much easier to do today and more anglers are discovering this incredible fishing opportunity. There are many premier lake trout fishing opportunities and some of these opportunities like Lake Simcoe and Geneva Lake are relatively close to a lot of people. Some fisheries like Pactola Reservoir in South Dakota are the result of creating a new fishery through stocking efforts. Perhaps the original lake trout destination for many Midwest and particularly Minnesota based anglers is northwest Ontario. More specifically, Lake of the Woods but there is some tremendous drive to destinations just north of the border near communities like Kenora and Nestor Falls. Manitoba has become much more accessible over the past twenty years with more lodging options available through the winter. Manitoba fisheries like Clearwater Lake, Kississing Lake, Cranberry Portage, Bakers Narrows and Reed Lake all offer some of the very best drive to lake trout water particularly for the coveted fish over the thirty-five-inch mark. What I love about Manitoba lake trout destinations is that you feel like you are traveling back in time. There is very little pressure and not many tracks. Some of these destinations were almost inaccessible to anglers outside the area not that terribly long ago but better roads and winter lodging options have blown this remote region up.
When we look to the west, Fort Peck Reservoir in eastern Montana is perhaps one of the best fisheries in the lower 48 for numbers of quality fish. For catching sick numbers of nice lake trout at least stateside, Fort Peck would be tough to beat. For the very biggest trout in the lower 48, the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior is tops when the ice conditions are safe. For adventure and unbelievable unpressured lake trout options for both numbers and size, northern Manitoba is at the very top of any list. For ease to reach for many Midwest based anglers with consistent ice and fishing, northwest Ontario is still a viable option. All these destinations are worth the travel to reach.
Lake trout popularity continues to grow each winter. Better information combined with better equipment is making many destination fisheries much less intimidating. Pictured is Chandler Jacob of Minot, North Dakota with a massive Clearwater Lake, Manitoba lake trout caught while filming an episode of Jason Mitchell Outdoors this past winter. Photo courtesy www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
16| Hunting & Fishing News
No doubt that the lake trout fraternity is growing each winter and more anglers are falling in love with these powerful predators. A fish that can live for several decades on some fisheries. A fish that can push your equipment to the max. A fish that can burn drag for a hundred feet before turning. A fish that can grow to awe inspiring size. Lake trout are king wherever they swim and you will feel like a king when you catch one of these amazing fish.
2020 FALL MACK DAYS
Sponsored by the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes and sanctioned by Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks
LAKE TROUT FISHING EVENT
on FLATHEAD LAKE September 8 th to November 15th Fish The Entire Lake
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(1)$10,000 & (3)$5,000 & (5)$1000 + over(9,000)$500-$100 Tagged Lake Trout Friday- Sunday-competitive Mack Days-lottery prizes, tagged fish, and bonuses Top twenty angler prizes: Pick your best 18 days out of 30 possible-Friday-Sunday
All it takes is one ticket (one for every lake trout entry) to win a lottery drawing 32 lottery drawings-$1,000-$400
Top ten angler prizes $800-$300-Fri-Sun-(18 best days of possible 30 days) Captains $250-(4 prizes),Smallest lake trout $250-(2 prizes),Largest lake trout $500 Top lady anglers $300, $200, $100. $100 -by total fish entered Youth anglers- (17-13) 1st- $200, 2nd-$150, 3rd-$75, 4-5th-$50 (12 & under)-1st-$100, 2nd-$75, 3rd-$50 Fri-Sunday Weekend Prizes-10@$100 per weekend Golden Angler Award (70 & older)-$200 & $100, determined by total fish entered Bucket Days-3 days of single/team-heaviest 4-fish-9/18-Friday, 10/10-Saturday, & 11/8-Sunday Monday-Thursday- 6:00 pm deadline to turn in fish – 10-$50, 2-$100 lottery drawings-2 tagging drawings $500, Siberian cooler tickets-1 for every 10 entries Mon-Thursday-43 days-also counts on bonus totals at the end of the event. ALL ANGLERS WHO ENTER 11 or more LAKE TROUT QUALIFY for BONUS $-the higher your total - the higher the bonus category - every day counts: Mon-Sun (69 total days) Fish the entire lake- Check in stations and times listed on the website -click on events at the top of the page-times will be listed there and are subject to change. Check the rules, prizes, bonuses, check in sites, & register online at
www.mackdays.com
Telephone 406-883-2888 Ex. 7294 or 406-270-3386 Applications will be available: Zimmers Tackle-Pablo, Sportsman & Ski Haus-Kalispell, Walmart-Polson Bob Ward & Sons-Missoula, Sportsman’s Warehouse-Missoula, Snappys Sports Senter-Kalispell, FWP-Missoula and Kalispell, Bretz RV & Marine-Missoula, CSKT NRD Offices-Polson, Westland Seed-Ronan We ask that all boats from out of the Flathead area be inspected for AIS.
Everything will be subject to changeCOVID concerns may cause issues that will have to be addressed as we move closer to the event. We remind you to follow all fishing regulations. The Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes have a special $13 fishing permit for the south half on Flathead Lake that is available wherever fishing permits are sold.
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Keeping Your Hands Warm On Late-Season Hunts By Brady Miller
When the temperatures drop, it’s time to bust out the big mittens. Photo credits Brady Miller
www.goHUNT.com old fingers, cold toes… you’ve got to love late season hunts! When the temperatures drop, it usually means the action is heating up, but if you’re not prepared to handle the cold, you won’t be fully in-tune with the task at hand — locating animals. If your hands are freezing... you might give up glassing sooner and in turn, give up on what could be a great glassing spot.
C
For me, the part of my body that gets cold the quickest are my hands and feet. Being extremely tall definitely has its advantages, but, for me, it also means long extremities that are away from the warmth of my body’s core, so I have to use specific gear to handle the cold. First, let’s take a look at handwear for these awesome late season hunts. I like to break handwear into three different categories: gloves, mittens and hybrids (pretty standard, but stay with me). No matter what option you prefer, you want to use a solid handwear system that has a long draft cuff,
18| Hunting & Fishing News
Gloves Gloves come in many shapes and sizes — so many, in fact, that it’s overwhelming. For a late-season hunt, I can’t live without a glove that has a wind blocking shell with insulation built into it and a removable liner. Having this combo creates a great deal of added warmth while also allowing the gloves to dry out quickly at the end of the day. Sometimes, I might sweat in them while hiking back to camp or accidentally drop them in the snow. When looking for a glove— this should go without saying—but a late-season glove needs to have a long cuff that Extended cuff and pull cord on a glove is essential to keep your hands warm. extends over your wrists with a pull cord to prevent cold air and snow from sneaking in. The past few years, my glove of choice for a late-season hunt has been SITKA’s Stormfront Insulated Glove.
720-0620-002
Originally published at
a wind blocking layer, a draw cord, an insulation layer and the ability to add/remove a liner.
I’ll also utilize the removable liner as the main glove if the temperatures warm up midday or if I need to use something with a little more dexterity. The only downside to a glove is your fingers could get cold because the gloves insulate each finger separately (and there is outside air between each finger), and due to your fingers being separated, they are not able to warm up your other fingers. Mittens Chopper style mittens are the cream of the crop when it comes to late-season warmth! For maximum warmth, you can’t beat a quality pair of mittens. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that mittens keep your hands warmer because the heat given off by your fingers are all in one spot; whereas, with gloves, your fingers are separated, making them easier to get cold. One big plus to mittens is also the ability to add a handwarmer on the inside. This handwarmer will then be placed right across your fingers keeping them toasty hot!
I’d opt for using just the mitten liner and really enjoyed how packable the liner is (this mitten will get used more on earlier season hunts, too). On a recent Wyoming hunt where we experienced below freezing temperatures the entire time, Chris Porter was always sporting his First Lite Brooks Down Glassing Mitt. These little gems weigh in at 3.5 oz, really pack some heat and are very packable. While I won’t consider these mittens as a dedicated late-season option, they seemed to work very well for Porter. Hybrids Hybrids…what exactly am I talking about here? This category is very intriguing, especially for the hunter who loves to sit behind optics on a tripod when it’s cold. These are typically mittens that have your middle, ring and pinky fingers together, but allow for some maneuverability by keeping your pointer finger and thumb separate. As the above section title mentions, this category is a hybrid of mittens and gloves. Each year, Chris Neville and I go on some crazy hunts together and, once the temperatures drop, Neville always has a pair of awesome hybrid mittens with him. What I’m specifically talking about are his First Lite Grizzly Mitt (I believe the current version is the Grizzly 2.0 Trigger Mitt). Joking on the hunt, we call these llama mitts because of the shape of the finger area. These mittens are like your typical mittens, but they have a separate area for your pointer finger which gives him extra dexterity to run his spotting scope or binoculars.
Another great option is a pair of cheap fold-back style wool mittens. You can quickly go from mitten to gloves by flipping back the mitten cap. This will allow you to have the dexterity of your fingers. Also, it’s a great idea to get the version with a fold-back thumb. Like other late-season options, if you need some added warmth, you could add a glove liner under this fold-back mitten. IN CONCLUSION There are a lot of great options out there to keep your hands warm! Outside of the styles offered by hunting companies, there are other great options made by mountaineering companies. I’ve also had great success with Outdoor Research Alti Mitts. Think about your needs: if your hands get cold easily and often, don’t be afraid to combine an outer shell with a different inner liner. If you are on a true backpack hunt when the temperatures drop below freezing, you will need to pay closer attention to what you put on your hands compared to a hotel or truck-style camp. When looking at sizing options, cold weather handwear options should have enough room to move your hands and fingers. This will allow the glove to be warmed up by your hands and most importantly, not restrict your circulation. Even on late-season hunts, I like to pack along a different pair of gloves to hike in so I won’t sweat. If you wear your thick gloves or mittens and do a lot of heavy hiking, you greatly increase the chance to soak the inside with sweat, which is counterproductive during extremely cold temperatures. Then once I arrive at my glassing spot, I’ll switch over to my insulation glove or mitten of choice. Best of luck on your next late-season hunt!
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Mittens come in many different forms, but, like gloves, a late-season mitten needs to have long cuff draft collars that extend over your wrists. The only downfall with mittens is the loss of finger dexterity. I always notice this while running the focus wheel on my binoculars or spotting scope. On my Colorado 3rd season hunt this year and in Montana recently on my annual Thanksgiving hunt, I used the SITKA Blizzard GTX Mitten. I really enjoyed the three-layer shell with the leather palm and, most importantly, the PrimaLoft insulated liner, which was the bomb dot com on those really cold glassing mornings. If the weather wasn’t windy,
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The Natural Rooster Armor Pheasants have feather-like armor! This has been a common statement and complaint among pheasant hunters who manage to hit their target and ring-necks continue to fly appearing almost unscathed. This could be attributed to pheasants possessing a built-in suit of armor making them almost bulletproof.
Photo courtesy Project Upland www.projectupland.com
HOW TOUGH IS A
ROOSTER PHEASANT? By Edgar Castillo Project Upland www.projectupland.com
T
he pheasant has earned a reputation as a physically tough bird in the upland community and here is why.
The male ring-neck pheasant rooster is both the admiration and abomination of upland hunters and bird dogs everywhere, who chase the wily bird from October to late January. Let’s get something out of the way right now...today’s pheasants aren’t our fathers’ and grandfathers’ pheasants from back in the “good ol’ days.” The pheasants we are dealing with today are the Y2K generation enhanced version—smarter, warier, faster, and some would say even more diabolical in their ways of evading hunters and dogs. One could even say they are the arch-nemesis or super villains of the upland bird community. Identifying the Rooster Pheasant The male ring-neck rooster’s most noticeable physical features are its long check-mark style tail feathers when it’s standing at attention in a field and of course the white ring around their neck. These are the features hunters look for while the cockbird is in flight for proper target acquisition. The male ring-neck pheasant is a gaudy immigrant. He rivals the male wood duck as our most metallic, multicolored feathered citizen. The Chinese transplant’s feathered body consists of 17 different colors. Plumage includes hues of gold, brown, green, purple, and white to name a few. When the sunlight hits it, it appears almost chromatic and iridescent. Its coloration is nothing short of spectacular when held in the hands of a bird hunter. A rooster’s head is black, blue and green with the distinctive red wattle and signature white ring-neck. Throw in the ivory colored beak to give it a little bit of detail. Weight and Length on those Roosters Weight: Male ring-neck pheasants (roosters) average two to three pounds, a nice feeling of heft when placed in one’s game bird vest, while hens average three pounds. Length: Males measure 24 to 35 inches long (a rooster’s tail accounts for more than 20 inches of length)... Hens are smaller with a much shorter tail.
22| Hunting & Fishing News
Pheasants provide the hunter the all too common target that is flying away, which means the string of shot pellets hitting the birds backside tends to slow down and inhibit penetration and lethality. It makes the importance of proper shot size and chokes for pheasant hunting even greater. Running, Flying, Swimming, and Frustrating Hunters Pheasants can run at a speed of 8 to 10 miles per hour, which is still plenty fast enough to frustrate pheasant hunters. Pheasants young and old quickly learn that to avoid becoming the main course at dinner, they need to run, not fly. And fly they can! At a speed of 35 to 48 miles per hour, roosters can reach a top speed of up to 60 mph when being chased and trying to outrun hot lead or steel! One attribute usually not associated with pheasants is that they don’t mind the water. They are also known to be able to swim. It’s common for pheasants to gravitate towards the cattails and marshes when pressured. It makes sense that with no other place to go, roosters will go to where hunters are least likely to follow. Guess what, there’s water in those areas. How many times have ring-neck pheasants flushed from Waterfowl Production Areas as hunters are walking along the edge of a slough? An anomaly? I think not. I have for years hunted pheasants within the public confines of the Cheyenne Bottoms of central Kansas while wading in water several inches deep. This defensive strategy works well as long as hunters aren’t willing to get their boots wet. Superhero Senses of the Rooster Pheasant It’s safe to say most avian creatures probably rely on their vision as their number one mode of defense. Humans see at 25 frames per second, whereas pheasants see at the rate of 50, which allows them to detect movement much faster and flee. Pheasants’ eyes or lenses are positioned far forward, a trait which increases image size. Far better to see approaching hunters clad in their blaze orange. It has been said that pheasants can spot a hawk shadow a quarter mile away! If this holds any truth, what is to say that the glint of a shotgun could also be seen from a great distance? If pheasants’ sight isn’t already “super,” then their hearing will astonish bird hunters. Roosters are able to hear 10 times the sound range that humans do. During breeding season, the pheasant’s hearing region of their brain increases. This boost probably helps with detecting rival crowing roosters. Would it be far-fetched to speculate that during hunting season roosters redevelop this audible enhancement? The old saying about being quiet getting out of trucks holds true. Constant hunting pressure has conditioned roosters to bug out at the slightest door slamming, dog barking, or any other noise that is NOT natural. Pheasants are experts at putting “hunter” noise and danger together when something doesn’t feel or sound right.
Photo courtesy Project Upland www.projectupland.com
Another way pheasants use their natural abilities against bird hunters is their extra-sensory pads on their feet. These special pads can sense vibrations. This early warning system serves as a form of detection with approaching danger . . . this translates into tan and orange wearing hunters carrying long “thunder-sticks” with their four-legged counterparts trouncing through a field. Last but certainly not least are the rooster’s spurs. Spurs can determine the age between nubby first-of-the-year old juvenile roosters compared to ¾ of an inch (measurement includes leg bone) spurs of an “old wily” mature adult cockbird, with at least a year of experience evading hunters. Another general rule when dealing with spurs and deciding factor is if the spur is black, shiny, and sharply pointed, then the rooster is an adult.
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Sharp rooster spurs can maim and even kill rival male ring-necks when fighting for the affection of those hens and keeping their harems all to themselves. Spurs can also cause injury to bird dogs. Weird But True Game Bird Tales? It is said that during World War I, several species of birds were “enlisted” to assist in the war effort. Everyone knows about how homing or carrier pigeons were used to carry messages during both World Wars. Thirty two pigeons were awarded the Dickens Medal, an honor instituted to recognize the work of animals in war. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/War_pigeon The Pheasant Radar System. Not to be outdone and not as well-known – but equally as useful, were pheasants. Pheasants served with particular distinction by providing an early warning system. Besides the pheasants’ sharp ears, their highly enhanced foot pads could detect the slightest vibrations through the ground, such as the footfall of distant armies or the pounding of artillery. The Battle of Dogger Bank was a naval engagement between the British and Germans which occurred on January 24, 1915, near the Dogger Bank in the North Sea during World War I. It was reported that a flock of pheasants “shrieked themselves hoarse,” thereby raising an alarm over the battle, 216 miles away! For more visit Project Upland at www.projectupland.com.
Hunting & Fishing News | 23
Add layers Add additional layers that provide warmth and weather protection as needed. Avoid a big, bulky hunting parka because your only option is to wear it or take it off. You want to adjust your insulation on the go when the temperature changes, which it probably will. You can often experience 20 to 40 degree temperature swings between morning, mid day and evening during fall.
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Over your base layer, wear hiking or hunting pants preferably ones that are water resistant because there will often be dew or frost in the mornings, which can get you wet.
Photo credit Roger Phillips/Idaho Fish and Game
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Staying warm and comfortable helps you stay out longer in any weather
F
all hunting takes place in all weather conditions and temperatures, so don’t overlook your hunting clothing because it may play a role in your comfort and success. It takes a little preparation and investment in the right clothing for the weather, but it will pay dividends when you’re more comfortable and able to stay out longer in all conditions.
Agent
Considering that hunting is often better when the weather is cold, wet and snowy, finding clothes that keep you warm, dry and comfortable can be a challenge.
jeff@jeffbolstad.com
Here are some things to consider when you’re selecting hunting clothes.
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Start with your base layer That basically means your underwear. You want it warm, breathable and comfortable against your skin, even when damp. You will hear often, but it bears repeating – avoid anything cotton, which saps warmth from your body when it’s damp.
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24| Hunting & Fishing News
You want a base layer made from wool or synthetic fabrics that wicks moisture away from your body and retains heat when damp or wet. There’s many varieties on the market. Unless you’re going to be hunting in extremely cold weather, sitting sedentary (such as in a tree stand or a blind) go with lightweight or a midweight fabric. You can easily overheat in heavy long underwear, especially when you’re hiking, even to and from your blind or stand. A quality base layer is very versatile because it can be worn in most weather conditions and for many activities, and it can last for decades, so don’t be afraid to splurge.
A fleece sweater or sweatshirt as a second layer is a good option to keep your torso warm. Depending on temperatures, you may need another insulating layer, such as a vest, insulated coat or fleece jacket. Your outer layer should provide protection from wind, rain and snow, and also be fairly packable so you can easily take it off and stash it in your pack if you start to overheat. Waterproof vs. water resistant Deciding which to choose depends on the climate. If you’re hunting North Idaho where it’s frequently raining, waterproof is probably the way to go. But if you’re hunting in a drier climate, such as South Idaho, you might be more comfortable with something water resistant because it’s likely to be more breathable, which means you can avoid feeling clammy when hiking and building up a sweat. It’s a balancing act because waterproof fabrics are typically less breathable, so moisture can accumulate inside and make you feel damp and chilly. Water resistant clothing tends to be better for wicking moisture away from your body so you can avoid dampness, but if you’re in a prolonged rain or snowstorm, you will get wet, which is almost always uncomfortable. Many hunters opt toward more breathable clothing, but have a lightweight and waterproof jacket and pants they can wear during a heavy storm. Don’t forget your head and hands Remember if any part of your body feels cold, it affects how you feel overall. Your head loses a lot of heat, and adding or removing a beanie is an easy way to warm up if you’re a little chilly, or cool off if you overheat. Keeping your head warm and dry will also make it easier to stay warm and comfortable if it’s raining. Gloves are another way to cover up bare skin and stay warm. Experiment and adapt Everyone is a little different, so there’s no perfect hunting wardrobe for everyone and every weather condition. But try to buy versatile hunting clothes and mix and match them to suit conditions. It might surprise how the right clothing can make the worst weather bearable and allow you to stay outdoors and hunt longer and more comfortably in a variety of weather and temperatures.
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Hunting & Fishing News | 25
3 Easy Steps to Clean Your Caribou Gear Game Bags By Ryan McSparran Caribou Gear Outdoor Equipment Company www.caribougear.com
2. Soak in Cold Water and Dish Soap Next, fill a 5-gallon bucket or a sink with cold water and dish soap. Let the game bags soak for at least an hour. 3. Rinse with Clean Water Remove the game bags from the soapy water and give them a good rinse with clean, cold water. If necessary, you can repeat steps 2 and 3. Optional: Machine Wash
Photo credits Caribou Gear Outdoor Equipment www.caribougear.com
ith good care, a set of Caribou Gear game bags W can last for many years. In a new video, we show you step-by-step how to clean a used set of game bags. The game bags used in the video referenced are from Caribou Gear’s Wapiti set, which is designed to hold a bull elk with bone-in quarters. Their game bags are sized for different species and applications – but they all feature the same, patented fabric. So these cleaning tips apply to any Caribou Gear game bag. These particular game bags were used on an archery elk hunt. Quarters and loose meat were placed directly into these bags and packed off the mountain. Back at base camp, the meat hung in the bags overnight before being loaded into coolers for a 6-hour drive home. After a long journey from the field to the processing table, these bags were stained and bloody, providing a great example of just how simple it is to wash them.
An Antelope Hunter’s Photo Journal SNS Outfitter & Guides www.huntwyo.com
Photo credits SNS Outfitter & Guides www.huntwyo.com
ver wonder what the experience is like, on a guided E antelope hunt with SNS Outfitter and Guides? Here’s a photo journal from a...2017 hunt, taking you each step through one of our Wyoming hunting adventures!
The first three steps are enough to clean your Caribou Gear Game bags. However, it may be helpful to know that these game bags are machine washable. As an alternative or an optional final step, you can run the game bags through a cold water cycle in a washing machine with standard laundry detergent. Caribou Gear Game bags are also safe to use with bleach.
It can often take multiple stalks to get a good shooting opportunity. When you finally set your sights on that antelope buck, it’s time to catch your breath and execute the shot just like you’ve practiced!
Drying the Game Bags Caribou Gear game bags can be line dried, or tumble-dried on a cool setting. Make sure your bags are completely dry before packing them back into their storage bag. Once clean, dried and folded back into their storage bag, your Caribou Gear game bags are ready to use on another hunting adventure. With a little care at the end of your hunt, these game bags will perform year after year.
Welcome to camp! First, hunters can get settled into their rooms and get acquainted with the camp staff. Don’t forget to stop and soak in these moments!
To find your next set of bags, take a look at the options available here on the Caribou Outdoor Equipment website:
Next, hunters have the opportunity to check their weapons. After a long trip to Wyoming, it’s great to check that everything is in order.
Caribou’s bags are easy to wash. In fact, they are machine washable. But in this video, we show you how to do it with just cold water and dish soap:
Next, it’s time take some photos to remember the moment.
Next, it’s time to relax, have some dinner and prepare for tomorrow’s hunt.
Watch here: https://youtu.be/LL_RFobC5mE
After the hunt, washing your game bags is easy. Here’s a breakdown of the 3 easy steps:
https://www.caribougear.com/collections/game-bags
1. Rinse The Game Bags
If you have questions or need help, please feel free to contact Caribou Gear at 303-798-5824.
As a first step, take a few minutes to hose off the game bags. This will quickly remove excess blood.
We offer free shipping on all orders at www.CaribouGear.com.
26| Hunting & Fishing News
Our hunting areas support impressive numbers of antelope. With a great buck spotted, it’s time to plan an effective stalk. Antelope have excellent vision and staying out of sight is one of the keys to a successful stalk.
Wake up to a hot breakfast and coffee. Hunters pack their own lunches, with plenty of sandwich and snack items on our lunch bar. With everything ready, it’s time to hop into your guide’s truck to begin the hunt! With the arrival of daylight, you and your guide will be glassing for mature antelope bucks.
When it’s all said and done, your guide will field dress the animal, taking it back to camp to our walk-in cooler. Our local meat processor will pick it up for you, and can have the meat back to camp the very next day!
After a great day of hunting, it’s time to relax at camp and swap stories from the day. When your hunt is complete, it’s time to say goodbye…but hopefully you’ll be back on a hunt with us again soon! For information on a guided hunt with SNS Outfitter & Guides visit www.huntwyo.com or phone 307-266-4229.
Hunting & Fishing News | 27
HOW TO SHOOT SAFELY ON YOUR PUBLIC LANDS
You’ve been Dreaming of this ALL Year. MAKE IT COUNT.
BY EARTHYANDWILD Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com
Photos courtesy Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com
t may be surprising to some, but even in this day and age IThis there are still places Americans can go to shoot for free. writeup isn’t going to give you every answer (that would ruin
all the fun) but I’ll do my best to give you a basic understanding of what’s needed to find that secret honey-hole of a shooting spot. All it takes is research and willpower...and usually, at least a half-tank of gas. Let’s start with the two types of land you’re most likely to be successful with: BLM Land Land managed by the Bureau of Land Management is the least-restrictive as far as recreational shooting is concerned. Unfortunately, if you live East of the Mississippi you probably won’t have many BLM opportunities. National Forests Land managed by the United States Forest Service (USFS). Like BLM land, National Forests offer large tracts of wilderness open to recreation. However, they can be more restrictive. Most National Forests allow recreational shooting if you follow a basic set of rules, but some won’t let you possess a firearm unless you are legally hunting. For me, the fastest way to find these places is to head to Google Maps and switch to “Map” view. Zoom out and take note of the green areas as you go. These green areas are public lands - National Forests, State Parks, Wildlife Refuges, etc. In addition to Google Maps, the BLM also provides online tools you can use to find land near you. Websites like goHunt and the app onX Hunt can further expand your public-land-recon capabilities.
Once you’ve located an area, check the associated website. Look for notices, current updates, and established rules. If you still aren’t sure whether recreational shooting is legal there, give them a call - that’s why we pay taxes! Now the real work begins.
28| Hunting & Fishing News
Switch to Satellite view on Google Maps (or Google Earth worth the download) and start looking for terrain conducive to shooting. Switching to 3D (in the lower right corner) is totally worth it by the way. Basic requirements are as follows: Safe backstop. Mountains are the best backstops nature has to offer. That said, you must consider what would happen if a negligent discharge (ND) were to occur. Is there a house or campground on the far side of the mountain? I have watched NDs on public land and it’s scary. Isolated entry points. If someone can roll up on your DIY range from behind that seemingly-perfect backstop, you don’t want to be shooting there. Always be aware of your surroundings and use common sense. Accessibility. Use the Street View function to check your route if possible. Check for gates at intersections and turns. Check for signs. Anything that might stop you from getting in. A clear-cut in a National Forest is a great place to shoot long distances for free, but they are usually owned by somebody and you need to be sure they’re open to the public. Those online land-management tools (like goHUNT) can show you exactly where the property boundaries are. Don’t be deterred if all you have is a small sedan - I’ve taken a Hyundai Sonata places it ought not have been.
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Look for features like clear cuts for long-range shooting, and mountains for nature’s best backstop.
BEFORE YOU GO…An open-mind is essential. Bottom line, be excited to head out and explore your public lands regardless of the outcome of your expedition! Before you hit the road, re-check closure information. Make sure there aren’t any new restrictions related to fire-hazard (steel targets and dry grass don’t mix well). Aside from the usual phone + charger loadout, here are a few more things to consider bringing other than your shooting equipment: Wet wipes...and a small shovel...Tools - vice grips, hammer/mallet, etc. Paper map of the area you plan to be exploring. Sometimes you can get them for free online. Helpful but aren’t mission-critical. Medical plan. I don’t carry a large first-aid kit and I don’t believe in carrying band-aids. However, massive blood loss can be quickly stopped with a tourniquet. Carry at least one and know how to use it. (continued on page 36)
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Here’s why. ANYTHING CAN HAPPEN AT ANYTIME
Photo courtesy Whitetail DNA www.whitetaildna.com
3 REASONS TO HUNT
MID-DAY DURING THE RUT By Alex Comstock Founder of Whitetail DNA www.whitetaildna.com
I
f you want to be successful hunting the rut, it can sometimes mean spending a lot of time in a tree, to the extent of sitting all day. I’m currently getting ready to head to North Dakota for two weeks of rut hunting, and can assure you, I’ll be spending as many of those days as possible in a tree dark to dark. It can get to be to the point of questioning your sanity, but sitting all day during the rut can surely pay off.
The thing about the rut is those “rut moments” we all dream of, well you really never know when that moment could happen (A great time to read: The Rut That You Dream Of: It Comes in Small Doses). Of course, early morning and late evening is still when you’re likely to see the most deer, but when it comes to the rut, you have to be ready at all times. If a buck gets a whiff of a hot doe at high noon, he isn’t going to wait to go after her until the evening, he’ll most likely be on her tail immediately. Bucks do funky things during the month of November, sometimes even unexplainable. What I do know for sure though is this. At any moment, a mature buck can cruise by your stand. If you decide to go get lunch and come back to the stand after taking a few hours off, you could easily miss an opportunity. Not to say every mid-day hunt is going to produce, but you never know when it could, and that’s enough of a reason for me to stay in a tree all day. MOST EVERYONE ELSE IS HEADING OUT If you hunt public land or even private property where others hunt around you on bordering properties, a train of thought that I have is when those hunters are headed out of the woods for lunch and then headed back after lunch, they could very well be bumping deer around, and those are moments I want to be in my tree. I’ve actually hunted stands in the past just
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You simply never know when you’ll be taking the bow off the hanger during the rut. Photo courtesy Whitetail DNA www.whitetaildna.com
WHEN IT COMES TO THE RUT, IT’S ALL ABOUT TIME SPENT IN THE FIELD
The rut is one of the only times of year where I’d strongly recommend spending as much time in a tree or blind as possible. Other times of the year, there are no chances I would want to spend a full day in the stand. But things are different during the month of November.
A great example of this is my favorite rut hunting spot in North Dakota, where I’m about to spend a lot of time. It’s a river bottom area, and bucks will travel through it from miles away. I may go a day or even a couple days without seeing a mature buck, but I know if I spend day after day in this area, eventually a mature buck is going to come by.
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It kind of goes back to my first point of anything can happen at anytime. The more time you spend in the field, the better chance you’re going to have an encounter with a mature buck, which could ultimately lead to you having a better chance of tagging one.
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CONCLUSION
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Hunting mid-day during the rut isn’t necessarily easy. If things aren’t rocking, you could get bored easily, and let’s face it, sitting 12 hour days in a stand just takes a lot out of you. But it can and will pay off. By putting in the time, and staying in your stand as much as possible, it will only help your chances of putting a big rutting buck down.
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USING YOUR NOSE TO FIND ELK
(continued from page 4)
Then, I slowly move, using my eyes, nose and ears, keeping a careful lookout for any elk sighting, smell or sound. When I see, smell or hear an elk, then I need to formulate a plan to kill the elk, which is often harder than finding elk.
How I used my nose Here is an example from a few years ago when I used this technique on a bull, using no calls or glass; just my ears and nose. I had been out all day in this big basin with no luck. I was working my way back down the mountain ridge, being careful not to be skylined when I heard a bugle across an open rock field. I quickly moved down to what I thought was parallel or below where the bugle was since the thermals were about to switch from uphill to downhill. The sun was about to set and I didn’t know exactly where this bull was. As I got closer to where I thought I heard this lone bugle, I felt the evening thermals switch from uphill to downhill and, instantly, I could smell elk.
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Without letting out a call or making a sound, I slowly still hunted uphill, keeping the wind and smell of elk in my face. If I lost the scent, I would move left or right until I found it again. As I crossed through the pines, I came out directly downwind of two bulls raking a tree less than 40 yards ahead of me who were unaware of my presence and the rest is history. All it took was one bugle and the scent of elk to put me within bow range of these bulls. A lot of hunters would say that I should have snuck down and cow called, hoping to coax the bulls to my position. This technique
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might have worked, but definitely would have put these bulls on the lookout for a cow or person. Personally, I find that in a public land pressure elk situation, calling an elk can be a hit or miss depending on the elk’s behavior and hunter interactions thus far in the season. What I can personally depend on during a pressured elk situation is a slow stalk using cover and terrain to mask my approach. When hunting elk, most hunters understand that it is important to see the elk and hear the elk, but often don’t think about smelling the elk. Paying attention and using your nose to smell when the wind is in your face puts you in a better position to find elk in thick timber when your optics are next to useless. Next time you are working in on a bull, consider not calling. Instead, use thermals and the elk’s scent to head in the right direction and get closer. Once you get in close to some elk that are unaware that you are in their bedroom, you will be using your nose more than your call when hunting pressured elk on public land.
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ADVENTURE E TO TH
Gear Review
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Toby and his dad Curt, owner of Montana Canvas in Bozeman Mt. enjoying a day afield.
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Wild Turkey Buffalo Balls Recipe By Lindsey Bartosh a 12 gauge girl www.huntingandcooking.com
Photo credit Lindsey Bartosh
tart with your wild turkey breast, cleaning off any S large fibrous pieces that may be running through the breast, and cut it into large chunks. Run the pieces
through a grinder... using a 7mm plate. One large tom provides between a pound to a pound and a half of meat. Preheat the oven to 350 F and cover a baking sheet with aluminum foil. I like to use the foil for easy clean-up when the meal is finished, but you don’t have to do this step. In a large bowl, add the ground wild turkey. To that add a quarter cup of some type of flour. You can go with whatever you have on hand in this situation, you are just looking for something to create some stability to your meatballs. I used almond flour this time around, and I really liked the texture it added. You could also use regular flour, coconut, panko, or bread crumbs. Start with a quarter of a cup. If your turkey meat is watery, you may need to add a bit more to firm the mixture up enough to roll into balls. Add additional flour a tablespoon at a time. Also, to the bowl, add two ounces of cream cheese. I had never thought to do this before, but cream cheese really helps create a nice consistency of the meat mixture for these turkey meatballs. It also added a little bit of creamy tang to the finished product. Finally, add a quarter cup of crumbled blue cheese (the stinkier the better!), 2-3 stalks of finely chopped celery, three tablespoons chopped green onion, salt and pepper, and one egg. Use your hands to really get in there and mix stuff up! I like to use an ice cream scoop to make my meatballs. In order for all the meatballs to cook evenly, you want their size to be as uniform as possible. Using an ice cream scoop helps keep things consistent. This recipe should yield between 20-24 meatballs. Cook in the oven for ten minutes. While the meatballs are cooking, in a small sauce pan, heat a quarter cup of unsalted butter with a cup of hot wing sauce. I usually go with Frank’s Red Hot Buffalo Wing Sauce, but I also really like Texas Pete’s Wing Sauce. Once the meatballs are finished baking, I like to brush some of the wing sauce and butter combination over the meatballs. I return them to the oven and let them cook under the broiler for three or four minutes. The wing sauce creates a sticky, tasty glaze over the meatballs! To plate up your Wild Turkey Buffalo Balls, put them in a large bowl, pour all the wing sauce over the top, drizzle with blue cheese or ranch dressing, and garnish with extra crumbled blue cheese bits and green onion. Serve with a side of celery and carrots, wing style! These Wild Turkey Buffalo Balls are great on their own, dunked in blue cheese dressing and served with a cold craft beer, but they also make an amazing sub sandwich! Serve the meatballs on a toasted hoagie bun with lettuce, tomatoes, extra dressing and blue cheese!
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HOW TO SHOOT SAFELY ON YOUR PUBLIC LANDS (continued from page 28)
WHILE YOU’RE THERE… You get to your clear-cut/valley/desert/canyon/mountain and it’s time to start setting up! Out in Idaho, we would need to hike everything in a few hundred yards up a hill to get access to our “spot.” After setting down our rifles and shooting gear, we’d then carry 30lb plates another 600-1,400 yards! Most of the time, we would just lean the plates against stumps. You won’t hear the impacts as easily, but you won’t have to carry anything to hang the plate with. That said, a 2’ length of chain and some bolts occasionally helped us hang targets from deadfall (don’t use live trees as target stands; it’s usually against regs). If you’re not climbing a mountain with your targetry you can use steel fence posts or 2x4s with some sawhorse-brackets to hang your steel. Creativity goes a long way here-One time I snagged a busted kitchen chair from the side of the road and hung a 12” plate off it. Whatever you use, be sure to pack it out. Thick leather gloves are great to protect your hands from shot-up metal and splintered wood. Here’s another list of other equipment to help: Spray paint. The cheap $0.99/can stuff gets it done, but the more expensive paint sticks better and doesn’t run as much. Black paint can be used to add a “waterline” to your plate (a horizontal line halfway up the plate, edge-to-edge). This provides a better point of reference when you’re shooting. Wind flag materials (if you’re going long). Surveyor tape or caution tape works great for this. Just don’t leave it behind. An old backpack. That mangled pack in the garage is perfect for hauling sharp, lead-covered steel and chains. Just make sure to trip and fall to either the left or right. Not forward. Lest your targets get some revenge. By flipping this 66% torso upside down, I can slam the “head” of the plate in the dirt and use some logs to prop up the back. WHEN IT’S TIME TO LEAVE… As always, leave no trace. Shooting over a tarp, especially if there’s snow or long grass, makes brass cleanup easy. If you can pick up extra litter, even better. Range trash is usually covered in toxins. Wear gloves and wash your hands in cool water as soon as you can. Don’t forget to reach out to your fellow Americans and spread the love of shooting. Join local clubs and become an active member in your shooting community! It’s not just about shooting for free; it’s about exploring and enjoying land that has been protected for hundreds of years by countless individuals. Get out and shoot! BIO I grew up in Western WA, shooting was never on my radar until I inherited my grandfather’s 30-06 on my 17th birthday. I paid for my first rifle a few months later (a CZ 452 Trainer in 22lr) and spent the next two years mastering iron sights and how to use milliradians. Eventually I got an AR15 and found a clear cut near Greenwater, where I learned to shoot out to 600yd. From there, I moved out to Pullman, WA for college and continued the plunge. I enjoy shooting PRS-style matches almost every month, and I’m lucky to know a local farmer with a 2,000yd shot on his property. Networking pays off! Instagram: @earthyandwild
Hunt Safe: Survival Tips For Big Game Hunters (continued from page 8)
Bring a flash light or headlamp and extra batteries -They’re valuable for navigating in early mornings or after dark and keep you from getting lost, as well as just being handy for a variety of purposes. If you get lost, warmth, shelter and water should be your priorities - You can go days without food, but you have to stay warm and hydrated. You’re not going to starve if you’re out longer than anticipated, but it’s never a bad idea to carry extra food with you. Commercial survival kits provide most of the essentials, but many are overkill. Think about exactly what you would want for an extended stay in the woods and keep those items with you at all times. If you get lost, admit it to yourself and prepare to spend the night out. Build a fire for warmth and set up a shelter. Wandering around will make it harder for search and rescue personnel to find you. It also fuels your anxiety, preventing you from thinking clearly and making good decisions. Don’t forget your vehicle and ATV - Have your vehicle ready for the backcountry and prepared for minor breakdowns, such as flat tires or dead batteries. A separate survival kit for your vehicle is a good idea. Keep a dry set of clothes in your vehicle - This isn’t necessarily a survival matter, but being soggy and wet can range from uncomfortable to miserable. Changing into warm, dry clothes for the drive back to home or to camp is a big bonus for a small amount of effort.
A Shooter’s Life
(continued from page 14)
There was a turnout just up the road where I found a large pine tree on a slight incline. As I approached the tree, the angle of the tow bar changed to slightly upward. Next, I shifted into 4-wheel low range and slowly accelerated. The tow bar slid up the tree and as Shooter moved closer, its weight bent the brackets just enough. Now, I could tie the tow bar almost upright; no longer a battering ram. I noted a large ugly scar on the tree as I left for home. The scar was there for years as my reminder of Shooter’s tow bar incident. Now on the way home, I had to make a decision. Farewell to Shooter I decided to sell Shooter! Pulling into the driveway, I had already planned where to store the gear (shovel, bucket, ax, Jack, come-along, tow ropes, etc.) accumulated for Shooter. Eventually, I planned to purchase a used, but more modern SUV. I wanted both my gear and me warm, dry, and safe! First, I had to actually sell Shooter. After just a few days, a couple of high school-age young men arrived for a look at Shooter. I described the history as best I could including the now infamous tow bar incident. The damage didn’t bother them because their need was a vehicle requiring some work, to use as a senior-year school project. This seemed like a good fit. I lowered the price to help them, mom brought the cash, and they drove Shooter away. I never saw Shooter again, but anytime an old jeep approaches, I admit to taking a really close look. My first of five SUVs over the next 25 years was a standard shift, 1987 Chevy Blazer. All of Shooter’s gear has been warm and dry since, with plenty of room for harvested animals. No more animal silhouettes on the fenders either; that was part of Shooter’s life.
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