Western Hunting & Fishing News - June 2020

HUNTING & FISHING WESTERN

JUNE 2020

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NEWS

After 103 years as Montana’s outdoor outfitter we know a thing or two about adventures in our great state.

There’s no secret fishing hole, hidden trail, or exclusive camping spot that we don’t know.

But don’t worry, we keep those secrets close so you can discover them for yourself.

It’s the things learned along the way that make a journey worth the effort.

So, the next time you’re gearing up for adventures at Bob Ward’s, take a moment to recognize that local Montana knowledge. It’s in everything we do.

After all, we were founded in Montana, have grown with her, and we’re still in love with our Treasure State.

Thank you for your loyalty and patronage for the last 103 years!

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4 | Hunting & Fishing News

Go Big, Fish Small Waters

By Ryan McSparran Mystic Fly Rods www.mysticoutdoors.com

fter a couple of late spring snowstorms and too much A time indoors, we’re all looking forward to summer at this point. Fortunately, fly fishing in small alpine creeks is now

opening up. Small mountain waters can offer abundant fish and plenty of solitude.

With each passing week, dry flies are beginning to appear at higher altitudes. Before long, hoppers will be everywhere.

Fish in these locations often see very little pressure. They can be aggressive feeders and eager to take a fly. But that doesn’t mean the fishing comes easy. These waters come with their own set of challenges.

As you explore some new alpine waters this spring and summer, here are a few tips to remember: 1. MINIMIZE YOUR PROFILE One of the most easily avoidable mistakes is walking right up to a creek with crystal clear water and watching shadows go darting across the stream. On these waters, it’s important to remember that if the water is clear enough to easily see fish, they can easily see you. These trout are spooky and will bolt at the first sign of trouble.

In most cases, there’s no need to go to extremes – crawling on your hands and knees might be overkill. But think about the profile that you’re presenting to the fish. Always approach from downstream. Get as close as you need to make a comfortable and accurate cast, but no closer. That might mean laying several feet of fly line in the grass in front of you.

2. MAKE UPSTREAM CASTS Approaching from downstream and staying downstream from your intended target means having to make upstream casts. Sure, you’ll catch fish making downstream or quartering casts.

But wherever possible, cast directly upstream to maximize your effectiveness.

Start at the bottom of a run, cast upstream and allow your fly to drift back toward you. Carefully strip your line through the drift to keep slack off the water. Then continue working upstream, moving a few feet at a time.

3. STAY OUT OF THE WATER

On small streams there is rarely any need to be in the water.

Photo credit: Ryan McSparran So stay out. Fish each run up through the bend from the inside.

When you reach the top, cross and fish up through the next bend on the inside. Rinse and repeat. Unless you’re crossing, there should be few times when it’s necessary to be in the water.

Again, this will minimize your presence and maximize your opportunity at fish. On these little waters, you might be surprised at the places that hold fish even in very clear water. Shallow riffles only a few inches deep sometimes hold the biggest fish. So watch where you step.

Get out there, find blue lines on a map and go fishing!

RECOMMENDED FLY ROD: For your next small stream adventure, I recommend Mystic’s 8’ 3” Au Sable 4-weight. Their Au Sable fly rods are designed specifically for light line presentations in delicate situations. Perfect for small streams and spring creeks, this is my go-to dry fly rod.

Hunting & Fishing News | 5

water temperature, those types of things, I like for it to be warmer water. I never threw a frog in water say less than 60 degrees. Usually from the time the

fish starts spawning, from then through the summer through the fall until the water really gets cold again, that’s frog fishin’ time for me. Due to its natural action that’s something

Photo credit: schlag | depositphotos.com

Bass Fishing Tips: Using The Terminator Walking Frog Rapala www.rapala.com

do you catch a bass? Walk a frog into heavy How cover.

Fishing a hollow-bodied frog is something that’s gotten very popular in the last five to ten years. It allows you to fish a bite where we really didn’t have something to fish in those areas before. The Terminator® Walking Frog is a great choice because of its shape. It’s a little bit bigger body frog than a lot of the ones on the market, so it’s gonna target a little bit bigger fish. Also, how easy this bait walks. Almost anybody can throw this frog out and get it to walk pretty quick. As far as condition,

6 | Hunting & Fishing News

that’s not got a lot of noise and commotion, that’s why you don’t want to fish a frog in extremely heavy chop.

It’s just simply gonna get lost and a lot of those fish aren’t gonna know where it is. I like fishing a frog actually up in the day probably more so than I do in the morning. In the morning a lot of times those fish are still lethargic a little bit and they’re really not chasing stuff real early in the morning. But once that sun gets hot, it creates those shadows, that’s when I’m gonna pick up a frog and that’s when I’m gonna start catching some big bass on it.

Some of the ideal cover that comes to mind for me when fishing a frog is any kinda overhanging tree, something that I can skip that bait up underneath where a fish is potentially gonna be sitting. Those are ideal places as well as grass. That is of course a great place to fish it but don’t limit to only fishing a frog in or around grass. It’s extremely effective around bushes, around any type of heavy cover as well as even open water. Both those types of things as well, so just don’t limit yourself to only fishing around grass.

You’re gonna miss out on a lot of great opportunities if you do.

It’ll really surprise you how effective a frog can be when other topwater baits aren’t. For me, a lot of my techniques and the way I’m gonna be fishing this frog is skippin that bait into that strike zone. Skipping that bait in there a lot of times is gonna draw that bass’ attention and get him to look for it. Then once it hits the water, short twitches of the rod tip will really make that bait walk almost in place. It’s not making very much forward travel with a lot of side-to-side commotion, spraying some water up in the air a little bit and you can see just how much that bait’s movin back and forth, side to side. That’s what’s making this frog extremely effective.

Some of the other techniques you can do with it, you know if the fish are in extremely clear water, and you need to fish that bait a little bit faster, a lot of times I’ll give it three or four short twitches and then a pause where I am trying to move that bait a couple feet at a time before stopping it. If the fish are following it sometimes you can stop that bait and if you watch close those legs just open up and then move a lot even after that bait has come to a rest. That can be an extremely effective technique if those fish are coming up under the bait, just kinda hangin there for a second.

Pause that bait, allow those legs to open up and that may be the thing that trips the trigger.

The reason every angler should have a Terminator® Walking Frog in their arsenal is to fit all of those heavy cover situations where you need a bait that’s gonna walk, it’s gonna stay in the strike zone, and it’s gonna catch fish where you’ve not been able to fish a bait before. But you can keep it in the strike zone and make ‘em bite it.

Deep Water Walleyes Photo courtesy Northland Fishing Tackle

By Bob Jensen Northland Fishing Tackle www.northlandtackle.com

Keystone Cougar 25RES

hen a person is preparing to go fishing, it’s a good idea W to keep in mind that the fish might not be where we expect them to be. I forgot that fact recently, and it impacted

my catching in a negative way. We caught lots of fish, but if I had been better prepared, we would have caught more.

Here’s what happened.

In early June I took my annual trip to Kabetogama Lake in northern Minnesota. Kab is one of my all-time favorite lakes for several reasons, but one of the primary reasons is that it’s full of walleyes in all sizes that are almost always willing biters. My fishing partner was Travis Carlson.

I’ve fished with Travis on many of my trips to Kab. He’s an outstanding angler and an outstanding fishing guide.

I’ve been on Kab several times during the first week of June, and we caught the walleyes shallow on all of those previous trips. At that time of the year they’re in water from 4 to 8 feet in depth, so that’s how I prepared to fish on this trip.

Unfortunately for me, most of the walleyes weren’t shallow.

We caught a few on rocky shorelines, but not as many as we expected. Travis suggested we do some sonar work in deeper water to see if we could find the fish. We started out looking in 15 to 18 feet of water, saw nothing so moved deeper.

Finally, we saw signs of life in water 27 feet deep, and as we moved deeper we saw more signs of life. We were seeing fish in water almost 40 feet deep. We were using Raymarine’s new Element sonar. This was my first time on the water with it. It was easy to use, and although the walleyes were hugging the bottom, it displayed them very well. There was never a doubt that we were seeing fish.

Once we located the walleyes, we started fishing. This is where the preparation part comes in. I was planning on fishing lightweight jigs on light line in the shallows, so the only rods that I had in the boat were designed for doing that.

The equipment that I brought along wasn’t designed for fishing heavy jigs. I used the equipment that I had, but could have caught way more fish with the appropriate gear.

I was using 6 pound test monofilament line. Mono has some stretch in it, so setting the hook in the deep water was tough.

I should have brought along 1 of several rods that I have spooled with 15 pound test braided line. It has about the same diameter as 6 pound test mono, but it has no stretch and is super-sensitive. It provides outstanding hook-sets also.

I also would have gone to a bit heavier rod. The rod that I was using was a medium light action. If I had been prepared I would have brought along my Lew’s Custom Speed Stick in a medium action. This rod is as sensitive as it gets, and the additional power would have helped with hook-sets.

For some reason, I put my box with big jigs in the boat, but certainly didn’t expect to use them. 3/8th ounce Fire-Ball® Jigs caught a bunch of our fish. The walleyes didn’t care about color, and they also didn’t care if we tipped with fathead or shiner minnows. Both produced.

It was another wonderful trip to a wonderful place, and I re-learned that preparation pays. Golfers don’t take just 1 club when they go golfing. They use different clubs for different situations, and anglers should have rods for at least a couple different scenarios when they go fishing. If you do, you’ll catch more fish and enjoy your fishing even more.

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View this magnificent bull and more at the Elk Country Visitor Center

BULL OF THE MONTH #12 Montana Typical

Photo credit: Anthony Wright

By Anthony Wright Originally published at

www.goHUNT.com

be honest, we’ve all been there a time or two with a Ltheet’s shot at a shooter buck or bull. You have the wind perfect, animal is broadside, but just out of range. One of the key instincts of mature western big game animals is their keen ability to evade hunters and that’s a common occurrence in the hills. But what if I said you had the ability to change some of these occurrences for the better? Would you give them a try?

Most people that I have helped get dialed in for rifle season do the same thing when they park at the range. They take a seat at the bench with sandbags/bipod, sight in at 100 or 200 yards and then shoot a couple of rounds at acceptable hunting shot distances. Then, they proceed to put the rifle back in its case and call it “good to go” until they go hunting, but are you really?

Follow along with these five pre-season tips and, hopefully, they will help you increase the odds in your favor next time you’re in the field.

1. DITCH THE BIPOD

You don’t always need a bipod when going for a hunt although they make prone shooting more comfortable. Plus, you can save some weight on your overall rifle setup. Give shooting off your backpack a try. Most of the time it’s always on your back and can easily be deployed when prone. Heck, when shooting from a knee or your hindquarter, it’s pretty close to the same as a bipod. When shooting prone you can lay the rifle across the pack either on its back for a little increase in height or, if you need more height, roll it on its side and shoot off the side giving you an incredibly stable platform if your bag has a frame. When seated, you can sit with your legs crossed and place the bag inside your legs.

Using slight leaning, forward and back, you can quickly find the sweet spot to make the shot. I practice these techniques when in the offseason so, that way, when a shot presents itself, I’m not fumbling around trying to figure out what will work. This is honestly my go-to setup for shooting either during hunting season or at steel targets at distances over 1,000 yards.

BOONE & CROCKETT Score: 395 4⁄8 Location: Silver Bow County, MT Date: 1966 Hunter: Wayne Estep

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huntingfishingnews@yahoo.com www.huntingfishingnews.net The entire contents is © 2020, all rights reserved. May not be reproduced without prior consent.

The material and information printed is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. Nor does this material necessarily express the views of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. All photo & editorial submissions become the property of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. to use or not use at their discretion. Volume 17 Issue 2 Cover Photo: Twildlife | depositphotos.com

2. PRACTICE LONGER SHOTS IN THE OFFSEASON

We all have our own comfort level when it comes to taking an animal with the caliber we chose to hunt with. For some, it’s 200 yards; for others, it’s 500. To each their own. I respect all hunters who have a cutoff distance for their opinion of an ethical shot. (continued on page 28)

Hunting & Fishing News | 9

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CONDITIONING FOR YOUR HUNT & LIFE BEYOND SNS Outfitter & Guides www.huntwyo.com unters revel in the preparation phase. The hunt is booked.

H The licenses are purchased. Travel plans are in place.

You have been researching and buying all the right equipment.

Some of you eat, sleep and breath this stuff. You know who you are! You take the time at the range to perfect your shot group. Maps are memorized and you have all the right apps downloaded on your phone. Day and night you are consumed with visions of your next great adventure. And now you’re just waiting for open season.

Some would say, that’s all it takes! There is a key element though, at times, which goes untouched; Conditioning for your hunt. If you were to ask any SNS team member about goals for our clients, you would hear words like; “safety, ethical, memorable, good times, successful…”

We all want you to have the hunt of a lifetime. Every time!

Lack of physical preparation will be reflected in your hunt, potentially impacting your enjoyment, experience and even results. Make no mistake about it! You do not want to show up out of shape to traverse Wyoming’s wild country side!

Now, you may be pumping the brakes. Physical fitness can be a sensitive subject. I really do understand. We see all ranges of a physique, strength, stamina and age for that matter. This, by no means, comes with any unrealistic expectations. Instead, it is meant to be a friendly reminder.

Make healthy choices. Put in the effort. Prep yourself and you will discover greater pleasure in the hunt.

Self assessment time!

Be REAL: Identify strengths/weaknesses, What do I need to work on?

Goal setting: Find attainable, realistic goals.

Action Plan: Plan ways to achieve these goals.

Implementation: Progress: not perfection.

Reap the benefits: Enjoy your next hunt to the fullest.

Let’s get REAL. Take a moment to self reflect. Wash away any temptations to make excuses or be dishonest with yourself. You are doing this for YOU after all. Assess your level of fitness right now. Can you climb into the saddle on your elk hunt? Could you hike the hillsides glassing for mule deer? Are you ready to hunt at this elevation? Would you be able to crouch in or even crawl through the sage to hunt antelope? Can you withstand Wyoming’s drastic weather changes?

If you are not quite ready for such tasks, not to worry!

Instead, now is the time to set goals! While focusing on what you would like to get out of your hunt, set some attainable goals to get you 100% ready.

10 | Hunting & Fishing News

Photo credit: David Hoffman Photography | depositphotos.com

These may include; I’d like to be able to climb into the saddle without struggling. I want to hike without gasping for air.

I hope to avoid sore, stiff muscles. I’d like to increase my walking distance and stamina.

‘Let’s get physical” Take action. Different goals will obviously have very different action plans. The beauty is in being able to adapt. Keep in mind, maintaining a routine is tremendously healthy for you.

Incorporating in some time to exercise has the ability to positively impact your whole outlook. If you are working from home, or drowning in homeschooling your kids, try taking a periodic break to walk around the block. Additional benefits can be found in moving your routine outside. As days are getting longer and the weather is warming up, a jog or walk could be the best medicine for you. As you progress through conditioning for your hunt, increase your distance, speed or the amount of hills you tackle. Bring along some water, sunblock and extra layers in a rucksack to get you used to carrying the extra weight. “Flat landers” have less access to hills but try out your local high school stadium stairs to fill the bill. A few reps climbing those can make all the difference!

If you happen to have access to a treadmill, experiment with increasing your speed and/or incline in intervals. If you tire from the routine, a jump rope can be purchased very inexpensively and is a heck of a workout. Don’t forget to add in calisthenics and stretching. The web has been flooded these days with online workouts. Many of which are free or offering free trials. All you have to do is surf and find what best suits your fancy and skill level. If you don’t have weights or equipment at home, get creative! Go ahead, curl that gallon of milk!

Troy Gilmore, camp manager & expert pronghorn guide for SNS, reminded me the average person walks at a 3.2 mph pace. Pushing yourself to up your rate by even 0.2 mph or greater will increase your heart rate and help you work on your lung capacity. Troy also suggests wearing your hiking boots while you walk or jog. This will break in any new pairs and the extra weight will help build and condition legs.

Troy asks you to “focus on what you want out of your hunt.”

Whatever your skill level use caution. Be sure you mix it up and keep it fun.

Your action plan may include making improvement to your dietary intake.

This is a perfect time to cut out “fast” food and find some new favorites.

Cooking at home can be quite the savings on calories and your pocketbook all at once. If you have already filled your freezer with venison, try a delicious, wild game recipe.

Find fun in fixing a non-starchy vegetable to pair with your meat.

Replace that colored sport drink or Photo courtesy soda with water. (continued on page 38) SNS Outfitter & Guides

Bowhunters: Increase Your Accuracy In The Offseason

By Trail Kreitzer Originally Published at

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Photo credit: Brady Miller

I

... have been thinking about the key components to becoming more accurate and ready when the shot presents itself and I’ll cover those here...

Draw length There may not be anything that impacts your ability to shoot well as having the correct draw length. When I say correct, what I mean is a draw length that allows you to comfortably draw, find your static anchor point, aim (to the best of your ability), execute a shot, and hit your mark repeatedly.

Overall, the benefit of finding your correct draw length is that it provides you the best possible platform to aim and execute an accurate shot. Over and over.

The first way to do this is to act as if you are drawing your bow. Extend your bow arm out ahead of you, making a fist as if you are holding your bow at full draw. Then, put your fist up against a wall and, with your drawing half, act as if you are drawing and aiming your bow. Make sure you are standing straight up, your bow shoulder is low in the pocket and your head is in a natural shooting position. Make sure your eyes are forward as if you are aiming naturally. After that, have someone measure from the throat of where your grip would sit in your hand to the corner of your mouth.

Another way is to stand up straight with your back to a wall, palms out, and have someone measure from middle finger tip to middle finger tip. Take that number and divide it by 2.5.

This is your approximate draw length. You should combine this with the first method and compare the two. Again, draw length is personal and the end goal is to get the best possible aiming bow.

Draw length from the factory comes in half inch increments.

Get the draw length closest to your estimated draw length and from there you can tweak your cables/string to add or subtract a 1/4” if need be.

Anchor point Part of having the proper draw length is having a consistent anchor point.

Your anchor point is a combination of three points of reference. Finding and doing those same three anchor points the same way Photo courtesy www.goHUNT.com every time is key to repeat ability and accuracy. The first reference point is the string to the tip of your nose, the second one is the string to the corner of your mouth, and the last one is your release hand to your face. (continued on page 23)

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Slip Bobber Walleyes

By Jason Mitchell www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com

n so many natural lakes, slip bobbers are deadly O on walleye. Particularly early in the season.

Cold fronts, crashing water temps and dirty water

accompanied by strong winds might absolutely wreck many bites but slip bobbers still seem to catch fish during the tough conditions. Tough to beat a lively leech squirming in place just for the sake of catching walleye. The other reality however with slip bobber fishing is that finding fish is a probe. You must pick what you believe to be the spot on the spot with the highest probability for contacting fish. You must get methodical and your search process gets slowed way down. You may indeed be thorough but make no mistake… slip bobbers can also sometimes be a real difficult way to eliminate water and find fish.

So often early in the season when trends are going the wrong direction… trends like water temperature or unstable weather. I find that I will still catch some walleyes up shallow by pitching jigs with bait, jigs with plastics, swimbaits, crankbaits, etc. but the bite is a tough grind. Going back through an area with slip bobbers where I could previously only catch a few fish with cast and reel presentations often saved the day.

The difference was often striking. In this context, slip bobbers compliment other cast and reel presentations.

The other presentations catch a few fish, enable you to sample water and find fish. The slip bobber might not be the best presentation to look for fish but it sure does catch fish once you find them.

Slip bobber fishing however also gives you a tremendous education on how fish move through a location. With slip bobbers, you will realize quickly that any location has sweet spots where it seems like every fish uses. As the fish move through a location or along a shoreline, it often seems like the route of travel is preordained much like deer following a deer trail. Walleyes using reefs or rock piles might follow the edges of boulders a certain way. Fish running along shorelines might travel a specific distance from shore that seems to be a more important factor than a specific depth. Slip bobber fishing does allow you to really learn a location and really understand how fish use that location. You can even begin to understand the orientation of fish movements in the direction fish are pulling the bobber under.

Depending on the state you are fishing and how many rods you can use, keeping several slip bobbers in the water can keep you busy. With most scenarios, the boat will be anchored and you want to use the wind as an advantage. Keep the boat upwind from the target you want to fish.

12 | Hunting & Fishing News

The author, Jason Mitchell shares some valuable insights on using slip bobbers to catch walleye. Slip bobbers are incredibly simple yet extremely effective for catching fish.

Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell.

Ultimately, the slip bobbers will settle in a line downwind from the boat and although everything is stationary, each slip bobber will have a drift that must be managed.

Successful slip bobber fishing is often a matter of managing slip bobber drifts next to the boat and keep slip bobbers drifting continually through key spots.

This management is often simply a rod location where the rod and bobber furthest down wind eventually gets reeled up and placed furthest upwind.

The key is to keep nice open lanes between slip bobbers and have your rods follow the order of your slip bobbers. Typically, this is much easier to accomplish with several rods if you can anchor the boat sideways with two traditional anchors or an anchor and a Talon.

There are many differences in opinion on slip bobber setups and preferences do change from region.

I consider slip bobber fishing a methodical almost finesse presentation in that you are sticking and keeping good live bait right in front of a fish.

On the other hand, I also bring almost a power fishing mentality to slip bobber fishing. On Devils Lake where we are fishing flooded trees, I like to use a heavier braided line for my main line. Bobber knots don’t grip and stick on braid like mono so you need to use heavier braided line for the bobber knots to work.

I have found a heavier braid like fourteen- or twenty-pound Power Pro works perfect because the bobber knots stick and the line is very durable.

Use two bobber stops stacked on top of each other in tandem. I like to use a larger 1 to 1 ¼ inch diameter slip bobber that is easy to cast and easy to see.

Again, this larger slip bobber might seem like overkill much like the heavier line but the key to the larger slip bobber is that it allows you to use more weight.

Below the slip bobber, I like to add a sliding 1/8 to 1/4 ounce egg sinker above a snap swivel.

The heavier weight pulls the line through the slip bobber fast and the presentation gets through the water column fast. This fast setup time is crucial around wood, when managing several lines or if power corking when you are hunting for fish with your electronics.

Early in the season, I find that a plain snell hook is as deadly as anything else. I believe part of the slip bobbers allure early in the season is that the slip bobber and weight can bob up and down in strong winds but the action on a plain snell below the swivel is often subdued and cushioned. This passive and subdued action on a lively leech is deadly during tough conditions early in the season. In cold weather, I find that wacky hooking a medium to small leech on a plain hook will catch fish when nothing else will. As the water warms up, I find that I can use a smaller weight above the swivel and start to incorporate jigs that add some color and flash.

I use a lot of Northland Fishing Tackle Whistler Jigs through the summer where I tip with either a leech or half crawler. Shiners and minnows can also work well depending on the water. Most days on most water however, the ribbon leech is king.

Long rods are often preferred for slip bobbers and as most can assume, you don’t need to necessarily have the highest quality rod from a weight or sensitivity perspective. Just a simple seven-foot spinning rod that has a moderate action...will suffice. I often also don’t like to use rod holders and instead prefer to lay the rods on the gunnel far enough inside the boat where fish can’t easily pull the rod over the side just so I can move rods faster and easier while keeping nice lanes open between each slip bobber. I use my Talon a lot when slip bobber fishing and often use it in conjunction with a heavy anchor and attached chain so that I can pin myself on short amounts of anchor rope in strong wind.

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If I am trying to sharp shoot fish with my electronics, I am typically keeping the bow mount trolling motor down so I can spot lock and using the side imaging.

On places like Mille Lacs where it is very popular to drive around locations to find and mark pods of fish and then pitch to those fish with slip bobbers, these fish are often suspended so find the distance the fish are from the bottom by measuring how far the fish is from the shadow on your side imaging. Once you know an approximate distance from the bottom, figure out the approximate distance from the top and use your body as a ruler for quickly sliding your bobber stop. I am a little over six feet tall for example. If fish are fifteen feet down, I just go twice my height plus a few more feet. If you are going to commit to a location, using a traditional lead depth finder works for exactly setting your depths but when you are running and gunning, use your body, arm width or rod to measure faster.

Slip bobbers save the day during tough conditions.

We haven’t seen or fished on many natural lakes where slip bobbers didn’t work. Early in the season, this simple and effective presentation is often at its best. From emerging weed lines, rock reefs and pencil reeds to flooded timber and shoreline structure.

Slip bobbers simply catch walleye. What is most amazing is just how incredibly deadly a simple squirming leech on a plain hook works early in the season when other presentations are just a grind particularly when walleyes are shallow less than ten feet of water after cold fronts and ugly weather.

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Hunting & Fishing News | 13

Photo courtesy Ben Team

Beginner’s Guide 101:

What Are the Best Times of Day to Go Fishing?

By Ben Team Outdoor Empire www.outdoorempire.com

...The Breakdown of 4 Time Periods For Fishing...

Early Morning Water temperatures are at their lowest in the early morning, right before dawn. This can make this an excellent time to fish in the late spring, summer or early fall when the daytime temperatures soar. Additionally, you’ll typically see very few other people at this time of day, which means you won’t have to contend with splashing swimmers and loud kids.

The low light levels at this time of day can also be helpful when fishing for species that see well in low light conditions, such as bass and catfish. Flying insects are often quite active during early summer mornings, which can also make it a good time to catch trout, bluegill and other fish who frequently eat insects at the surface.

However, early morning is not a great time to fish in the winter.

Because the water and air temperatures will typically be at their lowest for the 24-hour cycle, most fish remain relatively inactive during these times and wait for the sun’s rays to warm the water a bit.

Late Morning to Early Afternoon The time between late morning and early afternoon often presents very difficult fishing in the warmer parts of the year, as most fish will swim deep in search of colder water. The sun’s rays are also at their strongest during this time of day, which will encourage bass and other fish to lay low, as their prey’s vision often works very well during this time, making it hard to hunt.

But windy, rainy or overcast conditions can improve your chances of catching fish during the daytime. Wind, clouds and rain all reduce the amount of sunlight that’s able to penetrate the surface, and they’ll usually reduce the temperatures a bit too.

If, on the other hand, you are fishing in the colder portions of the year, this is clearly your best – potentially the only – time of day you have a reasonable chance of success. The sun’s rays will warm the cool water, enabling the fish to move around better and feed.

Late Afternoon Like early morning, late afternoon is often a productive time of day to fish during the spring, summer and fall. The sun’s low position in the sky allows the water to begin cooling off, thereby encouraging the fish to become active and feed. The dimmer lighting will also help to stimulate predators like bass, who like to feed in dim light.

Just remember that the morning pattern will unfold in reverse fashion in the afternoon. The temperatures and light levels will be falling with every cast, instead of rising, as they do in the morning. Also, the shadows will differ too – if the east bank of a lake is shaded in the morning, the west

14 | Hunting & Fishing News

bank of the lake will likely be shaded in the afternoon.

The earliest parts of the afternoon may remain productive in the winter, but the fishing action will often calm down quickly as the sun begins to set.

Night When the weather is warm, the period between sundown and midnight (give or take) is often very productive. You’ll have to factor in the lack of light when deciding on your approach, tackle and techniques, but many prized gamefish – including bass, catfish and, most notably, walleye – often feed aggressively during the first half of the night. Moon-lit nights often provide excellent topwater fishing action, as your lure will be very visible to the fish from below.

The fishing often slows down as the night progresses and the temperatures continue to drop. However, you can still occasionally catch fish during this time, so it doesn’t hurt to try.

Cool weather will make nighttime fishing considerably less productive. Few fish feed heavily in the winter, and even fewer choose to do so in the middle of the night.

Additional Considerations The most important factors that determine the best time of day to fish is probably the current temperatures and season, but there are a few other things you’ll want to consider when deciding when to go fishing. A few examples include: Tides If you’re fishing in saltwater – particularly if you are surf fishing from the beach – you’ll also want to pay attention to the tides. Many anglers find incoming tides to be the most productive time to fish, but others like to fish during outgoing tides instead. However, most will agree that slack tides, when the water isn’t moving, is rarely very productive.

Because there are two high tides and two low tides each day (offset by 12 hours), you can usually find your preferred tide during a good time of day to fish.

Weather As mentioned earlier, weather patterns can alter the time of day in which the fish will be most active. A light rain, for example, can cool the water and disrupt the surface.

This can make for great mid-day fishing, even in the middle of the summer. Conversely, cold rains can make it nearly impossible to catch fish during the late fall through early spring, even during the middle of the day.

Safety and Creature Comforts You certainly want to consider the way the time of day will affect the fish but be sure to think about how the various times of day will affect you. This will help you not only stay safer, but more comfortable too.

And generally speaking, comfortable anglers will catch more fish – and have more fun in the process — than miserable anglers will.

For example, if you are fishing during the middle of the day in the spring or fall, you’ll want to be sure to wear plenty of sunscreen and a hat to protect you from the sun’s rays.

It’s also important to protect yourself from the sun during the summer, but you’ll usually be fishing in the morning or afternoon during the summer when the sun’s rays are weaker.

It’s also wise to consider that bugs are typically most active during the late afternoons (and, to a lesser extent, the early mornings). Just be sure to apply plenty of bug spray and wear long sleeves and pants if necessary, to protect you from biting bugs.

Night fishing presents an entirely different set of challenges.

Mosquitoes and bugs can still be active (particularly during the early hours of the night) during the night, so be sure to apply plenty of repellent, but you obviously won’t need any sunscreen. In fact, your primary problem will be replacing the light normally supplied by the sun.

A good flashlight or lantern is a must, but you’ll probably also want to bring along a headlamp...This will allow you to see what you’re doing while keeping your hands free...

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Photo credit: Justin Kitto

Fly Fisherman Lands Monster Pike

By Andi Bourne Seeley Swan Pathfinder www.seeleylake.com “Look Hale, they got their fishing pole snagged on something,” Seeley Lake resident Laura Devins told her four-year-old son while they were out canoeing on Seeley Lake Saturday, May 2. “We were going to paddle over and see if we could help them but then we saw the line get really tight and it started to pull their boat around which was crazy. We realized it was a huge fish.”

Mike Deming of Manhattan, Mont. and his fishing buddy Justin Kitto came up for a day of fishing in the area.

While Deming said overall the fishing was slow, the 27 pound, 9 ounce northern pike that he landed with his nine-weight fly rod made the day one for the memory book.

Deming’s family had a cabin on Boy Scout Road for 20 years.

He fished the area for many years and credits “old timer” Gary Ikerd with teaching him how to fish Seeley Lake using Ikerd’s lures. He has since transitioned to fly fishing for northern pike.

16 | Hunting & Fishing News

Deming and Kitto started on Salmon Lake in the morning and then fished Seeley Lake in the afternoon. They were mostly stripping streamers in the shallows, hitting all the weed beds and fishing the inlets.

When they were a “stone’s throw from the old cabin,” Deming hooked into this pike in about six feet of water.

“It was kind of symbolic,” said Deming noting the irony of the location on the lake. “We were fortunate enough to be in the right place at the right time and I was fortunate to put something close to her that she wanted to eat.”

Deming credited Kitto, who was fishing in the front of the boat, for chumming up the water to engage the fish. The pike took his streamer close enough to the boat that he knew right away that it was big.

“We’ve been around big fish before, so we knew this was a large fish,” said Deming.

The first time they got the pike close to the boat, it made another run. It took Deming more than 10 minutes to land it. Once he did, Devins along with a few others that were fishing from shore celebrated with Deming and Kitto as they held up the monster pike.

Laura said it was exciting for everyone, “I’ve never seen anything like that. It was perfect timing and made our day.”

Hale added, “That fish was bigger than me.”

Deming said it was a large female, the biggest he has ever caught in Montana. She weighed in at 27 pounds, 9 ounces on their Rapala digital scale. In hindsight, he wishes they had measured her length and girth.

“We were so excited to catch her but we wanted to get her back in the lake in the best shape we could to continue the genetic trait of producing some big fish,” said Deming...

Photo courtesy Rapala

The Lure That Stands The Test Of Time

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Rapala www.blog.rapala.com

P

onder this for a moment: There are anglers today – some of the top pros in the country – who weren’t born when Rapala® introduced a fishing lure that would revolutionize modern fishing.

Thirty-five years after the introduction of the hugely popular size Shad Rap® No. 9, 38 years after its initial launch and the introduction of Shad Rap® size No. 7 and 42 years after the first sketches of the new lure were penciled on paper in Finland, Rapala once again saw the Shad Rap as one of its top manufactured lures in 2019. Over 1 million units shipped in the US and Canada.

The balsa lure, featuring the shape and light fluttering action of a shad (a bait fish that’s the mainstay of predator fish worldwide) is still manufactured by Rapala in Finland.

Each lure still hand tuned and tank tested to ensure quality.

Over the years, the introduction of the Shad Rap has spawned many imitators, but none have equaled the legendary performance of the Shad Rap, which continues to this day to be one of the best-selling fishing lures in the industry.

Truly, a lure that has stood the test of time.

Why, after all these years is the Shad Rap as popular as it was when it was introduced? It comes down to one word: “consistency.”

“What’s old has become new again,” said legendary angler Al Lindner. “We have a whole new generation rediscovering the Shad Rap. I think the reason why is time. It’s a huge factor. When you have only so much time to spend on the water, you want to maximize every moment. You want to fish a lure you can count on. This is true of even the top fishing pros who all have a stash of Shad Raps in their boats for those moments when the fish aren’t cooperating.

Simply put, the Shad Rap is one of the most consistent producers in the history of fishing. Period.”

For those who forgot or weren’t around when the Shad Rap was introduced, the lure became so popular that fishing resorts and independent tackle dealers rented the lure out by the hour and demanded a hefty deposit. When it first came out, Rapala only made 350,000 lures at a time when there were 30 million licensed anglers in the U.S. When word spread about its ability to catch fish, the lure quickly sold out.

“It was a miracle bait,” said Lindner. “I remember resorts renting out a lure for $25 a day. It was unbelievable.

I’ve never seen anything like it in my career.”

If you’ve fished for any amount of time, you know that new lures come and go. But the Shad Rap proved it was no flash in the pan. Fish by fish, the Shad Rap has earned its legendary reputation to catch fish everywhere in the world.

(continued on page 36)

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Hunting & Fishing News | 17

PHEASANTS DON’T GROW IN TREES

By Anthony Hauck

Pheasants Forever www.pheasantsforever.org

And finally came tree plantings — well-meaning efforts that yielded unintended and even invasive consequences.

The hastened arboreal assault is more than aesthetic. To the ring-necked pheasant, a grassland bird, each root, sapling and crown is not just a victory for the rival side, but potentially spells doom, a landscape alteration no less ominous than a plow or pavement.

PRAIRIE PREDATORS Photo credit: Steve Oehlenschlager

esting cover rules, while the difference between trees N and “woody cover” is distinct “To those first European explorers and colonists, grassland probably meant snug

meadows, deer parks, and pastures safe behind fence and wall. They had no basis for even imagining wild fields through which a horseman might ride westward for a month or more, sometimes traveling for days without sight of trees.” — John Madson, Where the Sky Began Grasslands and trees have waged an epochs-long tug-of-turf war in the middle of this continent. Tallgrass, midgrass and shortgrass prairies have staked rightful claims. Trees, worthy adversaries, continually seek to advance and convert this open land into forest.

But the tilt has shifted again since the great European migration.

The early encroachment was seemingly benign: Tree seedlings volunteering in new carveouts as virgin prairie was broken, scarred and settled.

The extinction of bison and retirement of wildfire, both tree suppression specialists, reoriented the ecosystem and paved the way for tree proliferation.

The essence of prime prairie upland habitat is defined as much by what isn’t there — trees — as its mix of grasses and forbs. But trees can become occupants of hearts and minds as much of the land, ecosystem be damned.

“It’s funny. Wherever trees should naturally occur, people seem to try their hardest to get rid of them. And wherever trees shouldn’t occur, they try their hardest to plant them,” said Rachel Bush, a biologist and Pheasants Forever’s state coordinator in North Dakota.

That includes her home ground, the most treeless state in the union.

“I see a lot of tree plantings in the name of pheasant habitat,” said Bush, noting that in many instances, they do more damage to pheasant populations than would having no trees at all.

Bush says tree rows often break up big blocks of grass, essentially inviting predators to an upland species smorgasbord: “Those trees that we as humans hunt — we’re a predator — are the same things that other predators use too.”

Foxes and coyotes systematically stalk up and down tree rows. Avian predators such as hawks and owls use trees as hunting perches and nest sites. But the drain on pheasant nesting — that critical, once-a-year opportunity to grow the pheasant population — is most negatively impactful.

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Nest raiders like skunks and racoons use tree plantings as den sites, headquarters for their spring gorge. Crows set up shop in tall conifers, nesting themselves while preying on eggs. This adds up to reduced pheasant nesting success near tree sites.

That’s at the field level. But research from Nebraska brings greater statistical significance to the thorny relationship between pheasants and trees. Assessing Landscape Constraints on Species Abundance: Does the Neighborhood Limit Species Response to Local Habitat Conservation Programs? indicated pheasant populations respond negatively to the number of trees at scale. A landscape constituted with as few as 15 percent trees severely limited pheasant numbers, according to the 2014 report.

TREES VERSUS WOODY COVER

The fact that large deciduous and coniferous trees are a low-grade habitat for pheasants can be a difficult concept for pheasant hunters to grasp.

“Pheasant hunters walk tree rows, shoot a pheasant out of there and think, wow, trees must be good for pheasants,” Bush said.

In Minnesota, tree removal is an ongoing and often highly visible part of the prairie restoration scene, occurring on Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) and Waterfowl Production Areas (WPAs). Tim Lyons, Upland Game Research Scientist with the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, says area wildlife managers in his state regularly field hunter concerns regarding such projects.

In making such simple associations, Bush and Lyons find hunters bypass what pheasants need at the ground level and fail to make the distinction between trees — growth higher than 15 feet — and the much more desirable “woody cover.”

Woody cover — comprised of dogwood and willows (what biologists classify as shrub carr), shelterbelts, dense herbaceous vegetation, brushy woodland edges or pine plantations — is an important thermal (or winter) cover component.

In some areas, woody cover may provide the only protective thermal cover available when winter snows fall and winds blow.

But for the large swath of pheasant country that overlays with the Prairie Pothole Region, the preferred winter cover for pheasants is emergent wetland cover, or cattail marshes.

“While woody cover does provide some of that emergency winter cover, for the most part, pheasants in North Dakota get by with the natural woody draws we have and the eastern cattail sloughs,” Bush said. The same goes for South Dakota as well as Minnesota’s pheasant range.

According to the National Wild Pheasant Conservation Plan, pheasants remain in or near nesting areas in grassland habitats during mild winters, moving to cattail habitats only when those grasslands are snowed in. In fact, it’s not uncommon for warm-season grasses like switchgrass, big bluestem, little bluestem and Indian grass to provide adequate thermal cover in normal winters.

It’s only in extreme winters, when wind and snow conspire to fill in those cattails, that pheasants seek woody shelterbelts.

The plan highlights research from the turn of this century that categorizes woody habitats as “emergency cover,” only utilized by pheasants when nothing else was available.

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Adding insult to habitat injury is this: While fragmenting uplands and creating predator opportunity, tree plantings take up space that oftentimes may be better served as valuable nesting cover.

(continued on page 22)

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PHEASANTS DON’T GROW... (continued from page 19) Thermal cover is an important piece of the pheasant habitat mosaic, but it ranks a definite second to available nesting cover as far as a population limiting factor.

Lyons says when you consider that annual production is largely what determines the strength of the pheasant population (the birds available for you and I to hunt in fall), and that the available research overwhelmingly ties the proximity of tree edges to decreased nesting success and even nesting avoidance, the picture becomes clear: “We need to be more focused on what benefits the population,” Lyons said, “In today’s landscape, that’s unquestionably nesting and brood-rearing cover. It all comes down to nesting success.” And trees hinder nesting success.

Bush, who has witnessed 1.5 million Conservation Reserve Program (CRP) acres of prime nesting habitat vanish in her state in the last decade, notes that what matters in this habitat ebb is optimizing remaining upland acres.

“When we remove single-row tree belts from perennial nesting cover or replace tall trees with pollinator plantings or native shrub blocks, we immediately make those corridors way more valuable to wildlife,” she says.

Bush is far from anti-tree. But from her prairie perspective, she stresses the importance of thermal cover strategically placed and in the right form: “If you’re going to plant, focus on large blocks, and at least 15 rows. Let’s make sure that it’s smart, that it’s the right species (native), that it’s wide enough, and that it’s not breaking up large blocks of nesting cover.”

And, as Madson notes in his prairie treatise, there’s something to be said for turning into the wind and embracing the prairie not for what it isn’t, but everything else it is: The world had opened into a light-filled wilderness of sky and grass that would open its people as well, freeing them of certain dogma, breaking old institutions, and shaping new ones to fit the land.

Each wave of American settlement from east to west had progressively deepened New World naturalization, and no settlers were altered more deeply than those who drew away from the treelands and became true grasslanders at last.

TREE PLANTING DO’S AND DON’TS DO’s DO consult your local Pheasants Forever Farm Bill Wildlife Biologist at www.pheasantsforever.org/Habitat/findBiologist.aspx, or other natural resource professional.

DO consider substituting a warm-season grass mix for thermal cover, rather than planting trees.

DO mimic natural woody areas with native species and avoid invasive species such as Russian olive and Siberian elm.

DO plant as close as possible to a reliable food source and consider only shrub or low-tree plantings that provide an additional food source — buffaloberry, chokecherry, crabapple and American plum, for example.

DO plant low-profile tree and shrub species in a minimum of 15 rows and, if possible, create a block planting that will beat winter snows and winds to provide thermal cover.

DON’TS DON’T plant trees in or around nesting cover.

DON’T overdo a tree planting. A rule of thumb is 5 acres of trees per every 100 acres of grassland habitat.

DON’T plant trees in native prairie, an endangered ecosystem. Songbirds, prairie grouse and other native species depend on native prairie for survival.

DON’T fragment nesting cover with woody cover when preferred thermal habitat like cattails may already be available.

DON’T plant 3-, 4- or 5-row tree belts for the benefit of wildlife. They fill with snow early in winter, rendering them useless as thermal cover.

Sources: Pheasants Forever, Ducks Unlimited, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Natural Resources Conservation Service, North Dakota Game and Fish Department.

Bowhunters: Increase Your Accuracy In The Offseason (continued from page 11)

Since I shoot using a handheld release, I like to lay my index finger just under my jaw bone. My index and middle finger split my jawbone. If you shoot an index finger release, many people like to tuck their first knuckle up under their earlobe.

Whatever it is that you pick as your release hand to face anchor point, make sure you can find it and anchor exactly the same way every time.

Tip: I have recently noticed that as I anchor I tend to have some movement in my release hand as I am searching for my anchor. Doing this probably causes me some lost seconds and eventual fatigue. I have been working on drawing and finding my anchor immediately and then beginning the shot process. Also, be aware of the pressure you are putting on the string from your nose and the corner of your mouth.

Keep it light!

As previously stated, draw length is important because the proper length is going to give you the best aim and results down range. A couple points of consideration: if you draw, anchor and aim, and your pin movement is either wide, slow sweeping arches or ranges across the target, your draw length may be too long. Conversely, if your aiming pattern is very tight, but your pin movement is rapid and sporadic, your draw length may be too short. The best draw length allows you to hold with your pin, gently floating within your intended point of impact.

Draw weight and holding weight Draw weight may not impact your accuracy as much as other factors, but if you are over-bowed, it can take you longer to get into your shooting process. If you have to point your bow up toward the sky and draw down and across your body to pull the weight of your bow back, it’s going to put you in a poor position to acquire your anchor point and it’s also going to take you a bit longer to get your pin to the target. Ultimately, you should select a draw weight where you can hold the bow out in front of you or slightly above shoulder height and then draw the bow with your drawing elbow up and back.

Doing so will allow you to go straight to your anchor and pin straight to the target.

Many new compound bows offer very high let-off — some even creeping up into the 90% range. Meaning that if I was shooting a 70 lb bow, I may only be holding 7 lbs. While that can be tempting, it can cause some issues with aiming because there is very little resistance to pull against. My new Mathews VXR gave me the option of 80% or 85% mods and I find that the added holding weight does give me a slightly better hold and aim. Many new bows give you the options to play with holding weight by adjusting draw stops. Do some tinkering to see if a bit more holding weight actually gives you a better aim.

Grip The best tip I can offer for grip is to keep it relaxed. Your grip hand should be dead with no tension. If you have tension through your bow arm down into your bow hand you will be hard pressed to shoot consistently. A relaxed bow hand will cradle the bow and allow it to jump forward with good follow through as the bow fires. Sometimes all it takes is knowing how you can customize your bow grip.

(continued on page 25)

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Hunting & Fishing News | 23

WHAT RIFLESCOPE MAGNIFICATION SHOULD YOU GET? Vortex Nation www.vortexoptics.com

Photo courtesy Vortex Optics

ere’s a short answer: Get the magnification that fits the H application for the riflescope 80-90% of the time. If you primarily hunt in the Midwest, where you won’t see deer

farther than 200 yards—but, maybe you plan to take a trip out west one day where you may see deer at far greater distances—choose a magnification that fits the midwestern hunt. We can almost guarantee it will still be able to get it done out west, even if it’s not perfectly ideal.

The same story goes for all riflescopes in other shooting scenarios (Long range, competition, etc.). Just get the one that best matches your primary application and you can always make it work with the secondary ones.

Now, here’s a little longer answer, based on the most typical applications we see.

MIDWESTERN DEER HUNTING AND RECREATIONAL SHOOTING (NOT LONG RANGE).

Get something that’s relatively low in magnification. You don’t need a lot to cover the distances we deal with here in the Midwest, and you’ll appreciate the bigger field of view in our thick timber as well as better low-light performance from a lower mag scope. Our favorite mag ranges are the classic 3-9x, 4-12x, or the 2.5-10x. A 4-16x is great too, though it may be more expensive to find a scope with a 4x zoom range vs. the 3x zoom ranges we listed before.

A 4-16x can literally do everything under the sun, though if it’s a hunting scope with low, capped turrets, it may have a hard time at long range.

WESTERN BIG GAME HUNTING AND RECREATIONAL SHOOTING (PROBABLY SOME LONGER-RANGE STUFF).

2.5-10x is a good minimum out west, and if you intend to do any long-range shooting on the side, we’d suggest going with a scope that at least has an exposed elevation turret.

4-16x, 6-24x or anywhere in between is a solid place to be.

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24 | Hunting & Fishing News

The Viper® HS LR™ series of scopes has been a popular one with hunters in this area because it has an exposed elevation turret that allows you to dial shots quickly, with more available adjustment, but a capped windage turret to protect it from getting bumped off zero. It comes in 4-16x and 6-24x, and is an excellent hybrid hunting/shooting scope with long-range capability.

Again, be mindful that a lower magnification will provide a bigger field of view and generally better low-light performance when comparing like scopes from the same family.

Honorable mention here would be the flyweight scopes that get by with a little lower magnification and super minimalist features, but deliver ridiculously good optical quality and won’t weigh you down in the high country. An example here would be something like our Razor® HD 5-20x50.

Photo courtesy Vortex Optics

LONG-RANGE SHOOTING. You can shoot out to 1,000 yards just fine with a 3-9x40 if it has good turrets and decent optical quality, so it’s tough to pick just one perfect magnification range for long-range shooting because everyone will have their own preferences.

A lot of PRS competitors use our Razor® HD Gen II 4.5-27x56 riflescope and it’s a rare occasion if any of them ever really bring that thing above 18x. It happens on occasion but ask any one of them and they’ll tell you it’s far less than you’d think that it comes close to being on 27x.

Buy the best quality optical system you can afford and sacrifice some magnification if it means you can step up to the next level, while still maintaining good dialing turrets for long distance. If you’re anywhere in the 4-16x to 6-24x neighborhood, you’ll be just fine.

MID-RANGE SHOOTING WITH AR-15’S, AR-10’S OR OTHER, SIMILAR PLATFORMS. When you say “mid-range,” what is that in your book? Is it 100-300 yards? Or 500-800 yards? If the former, opt for a 1-6x LPVO or something similar that can be dialed back to 1x. You don’t need much magnification to hit steel at 300 yards effectively, so give yourself the flexibility of being able to go anywhere from 1x to 6x, or even 8x should the time come. (For more on LPVOs on tactical carbines, check out our blog on the subject.)

If “Mid-range” basically just means “not quite 1,000,” then consider checking out the more niche 2-10x tactical scopes that give you a lighter-weight optic with a lot of the same features as the bigger, dedicated long-range options, but usually with stunningly good optics, huge field of view, tons of available travel in the turrets, and amazing low-light performance. Favorite example within our line is the Viper® PST™ Gen II 2-10x32 FFP. Remember: If you’re looking for a single optic, get the one that suits your needs 80-90% of the time. With practice, you’ll likely be able to make it work wherever you need it.

Bowhunters: Increase Your Accuracy In The Offseason

(continued from page 23) A few tips: • Don’t death grip the bow; it’s not a pistol grip • Do not cross your lifeline with the bow’s grip.

• As you hold your bow hand out, your grip should sit so your knuckles are at 45 degrees.

Keeping your fingers relaxed, lightly place your index and middle fingertips on the front of your riser at full draw.

You can even place a couple dots of felt or silicone on the front of your riser to remind you where to place those fingers and keep it loose.

Bow arm Should I lock my bow arm or shoot with my arm bent?

The answer to that is neither. If you think about the mechanics, a bent arm will require you to use muscle to maintain the same aim and, as you can imagine, muscle fatigue. On the flip side, if your bow arm is fully extended, “locked out” there is going to be some tension. Go ahead and try both and you’ll see. Rather, what you want is a nice straight alignment, bone on bone, and relaxed.

Stance Stance is something I think most people have figured out, but it’s still worth touching upon briefly. Two common issues that I see with many new archers are that they will initially take a really wide stance with their feet out past shoulder width.

Sometimes you also see the opposite: people standing with their feet close together and perpendicular to the target.

A good stance is slightly open toward the target with your feet about shoulder width or just inside your shoulder width apart. For the most part, a good stance is sturdy, comfortable and repeatable. Try some slight variations with your stance and see how it impacts your aim. For most of us, this type of stance is going to give them the best results.

Aiming I’ve written about this before, but so many of us when we get into archery are told we should draw the bow back, put the pin on the target and pull the trigger on the release. It seems quite simple — similar to shooting a rifle. The difference is that, often, we are shooting a rifle from a bench or a really solid rest. We are only in charge of the back half of the rifle and squeezing the trigger. When you are shooting a bow, your back half is pulling against the front half and there is a dynamic relationship between your arm holding the bow and your arm and hand trying to execute a shot. The long story short is that no one can hold the pin perfectly steady on target when shooting a bow. So how do you aim?

It’s important to concentrate on your intended point of impact while letting the pin float over it. Be aware of your pin, but focus on the point of impact. If you think about it, the point you want to hit is not moving; it’s static and consistent.

Your pin, on the other hand, is moving and, if you are amped up and excited, it’s probably moving a lot. What happens when you focus primarily on the pin and it moves off the target? Well, for me, it causes anxiety and I lock up. My shot execution process stops and I try to force the pin back into the center. Then I start once again trying to get the shot to go off. The better way is to focus on the spot — the exact spot you want to hit — and let the pin float over your target as you move through the process to execute a shot.

Doing this will make your shot timing much more consistent and, for me, it makes me much more accurate.

(continued on page 31)

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Hunting & Fishing News | 25

FINDING THE RIGHT DISTANCE

WHEN HUNTING SOLO

By Anthony Wright

Originally published at

www.goHUNT.com

cenario: You’re packed up, boots tied tight ready for S three to five days of solo hunting with plans of coming out heavier than when you entered. You won’t have the

availability to call anyone with horses or llamas. All the meat transportation will rely solely on your back and feet.

The question becomes how far is too far? Here’s what I’ve learned about certain distance ranges throughout the last couple seasons when hunting solo.

0 to 1.5 miles

This range is where I believe a good portion of hunters focus.

That’s not to say there isn’t any good hunting to be had in this range — I’ve had my fair share. Surprisingly, there can be a lot of chances for game opportunities depending on species, difficulty of terrain and access. One of the biggest problems with this range for our dedicated three-to-five-day excursion scenario is that there is a high probability of running into other hunters from the weekend surge — especially if game can be seen from roads.

However, there are some spots where terrain makes it a terrible hike in and deters most folks who are looking for the path of ease. In these difficult to access short distance spots, you may find where the animals are hiding from the general populous. I have one or two spots like this, but for the sake of the scenario, I wouldn’t use them. Plus let’s face it, you wanted a tougher pack out. Right?

1.5 to 3 miles

This is a pretty attractive range. This is a good range when planning a long weekend or when trying to avoid crowds.

If I can, I will try and plan to start my hike-in during the middle of the week and be out before the weekend kicks off. This is my go-to range, more specifically closer to the three-mile area, especially when solo. There is plenty of good hunting to be had if you’re willing to do some off trail exploring. You will also get a good amount of elbow room when resting up at camp.

Road noise is nonexistent, fewer people are seen and there is more than likely room to adventure out in all directions.

I like this range because I can pack in — whether on trail or off — with a hefty pack full of my favorite creature comforts since I know I’ll be setting up a “base camp” to continue hunting the surrounding areas. The 1.5-to-three-mile range isn’t too bad either if you do harvest an animal. Granted it will be a multiple trip pack out, but it is manageable.

3 to 5 miles

Solo hunting speaking, you have entered the area of stamina.

Depending on terrain, this can really kick your ass. However, what you may pay in pain just getting there, you will be rewarded in serenity! If you’re searching for the real deal when planning a do-it-yourself (DIY) hunt out West and want the full experience of a backcountry hunt, then this is the range for you. Now, remember that we’re talking solo hunting for a couple to a few days, which means everything you need will be on your back. For most, humping a 60 lb+ pack close to five miles will be a real workout and test of mental fortitude. Training is a must when entering this realm.

The beauty of this range is that people are rarely seen — at least in my experience. When planning for this range, be sure to only pack what you need and try to find items that can be used multiple ways to help keep your pack weight down. Depending on location and time of the year, you may get some unexpected weather so prepare for that.

I don’t trust forecasts too much because I know from

26 | Hunting & Fishing News

Photo credit: Anthony Wright

experience that Mother Nature’s mountains make their own decisions. Always pack rain gear! Consider lightweight yet nutritionally dense foods to assure you will be getting enough nutritional support while exerting a lot of energy.

Another consideration is water. If you won’t have the availability for it near camp you may have to resort to packing in a couple gallons, which adds a lot of extra weight. If you’re lucky enough to harvest an animal, then get ready for the real fun! I’m a fan of deboning the meat since I don’t want to pack the weight of bones, but that’s just a personal preference.

5 miles and beyond

This is horse country! That’s not to say that people don’t venture out into the wilderness solo at these ranges, but those people are some hard chargers! This area isn’t for the beginner or first timer. I have yet to find a need to go this far; however, part of me is curiously tempted. You’re more than likely not going to run into anyone, but may run into the occasional horse rider. The animals in this range are more than likely not as educated as some in the previous ranges mentioned. Although you may see some of the most majestic views you’ll ever encounter, caution must be noted.

Ranges beyond five miles requires you to fully understand what you’re getting yourself into. There can be no wasted items in your pack and your nutrition has to be a priority.

I would highly recommend some kind of communication device like the Garmin inReach mini or Garmin inReach Explorer so you can stay in contact with someone just in case things get hairy. Something I have thought about doing is starting at one trailhead and covering as much ground as possible, finding game throughout the few days, with a plan to get picked up at another trailhead some five miles away. The theory would be that if I did tag out, then I would just pack it out to the closer of the two trailheads. If you are someone who hunts in this range, let me know, I would like to hear what you have learned.

WHAT RANGE IS THE BEST?

Not quite sure. It will depend on your experience level, where the animals are and how far you’re willing to pack an animal out if successful. Every one of the ranges mentioned will hold game; there’s no doubt. Mainly, for me, going further or hunting less forgiving terrain just helps me hunt animals that could be less pressured. Additionally, it challenges me both mentally and physically. If you have hunted solo you know just as well as I do the games your mind can begin to play after a day or two. For those who haven’t hunted solo but plan on it in the future, the biggest piece of advice I can give you is prepare. Prepare yourself for boredom, solving problems, physical strain, etc. There’s really only one way to find out what you require and that’s to get out there and put miles in! ...Stay safe and hunt hard!

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you a much more accurate table. Just make sure to validate the data the app gives you at the range—don’t always rely on technology. If you have a long-range rifle scope, such as the Vortex Viper PST Gen ii 5-25 FFP, that has exposed turrets, I would highly recommend taking the time to do the app or computer calculators to take advantage of the turrets.

They can be very fast and accurate to adjust with practice.

Bonus tip: Make sure you are using your hunting ammunition with the same lot number if using box ammo while performing this.

This will assure that your data is as accurate as possible with minimal error.

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5 TIPS TO INCREASE YOUR SHOOTING ACCURACY BEFORE YOUR RIFLE HUNT (continued from page 9)

What if you could increase your effective range by 50 to upwards of 200 yards? There’s no secret that practice makes perfect; however, focused repetition is the main key to this tip.

Here in the West, we have an infestation of rocks that need to be shot to keep the population down; to our benefit, these make great targets when they have a proper backstop.

When out shooting on public land or at the range, take a couple shots that exceed your comfort range when hunting.

Don’t just take a shot and call it good, pay close attention to detail. Take note of your sequence, weather conditions and distances you shot. Continue to practice these shots to build confidence in yourself so when you have that shot, which may have been out of range last season, you are prepared to make it count. The only negative to this tip is that ammunition can be expensive, but it can pay for itself in the future with the chance of a lifetime animal!

3. MAKE A DROP CHART

The old adage, “I’m zeroed in at 100 so I’ll just aim high at 200,” is old news and leads to poor shots. With current technology, making a bullet drop chart is fairly simple.

The easiest way to do it without getting too scientific would be to: • Zero your rifle at your preferred distance, then take a vertical target (I prefer freezer paper) and place it at your zero distance with a 2” to 3” black dot towards the top and the rest of the paper blank.

• Then, without adjusting your zeroed rifle, put the target 50 or 100 yards past your zero distance. Aim at the black dot and fire three good shots. Then, walk up to the target with a measuring tape and measure the drop.

Continue to back up to whatever distance you want your chart to represent. (Be sure to annotate the distances shot with the applicable drop. Also, mark off the previous shots with a marker to not confuse them with the shots you’re about to fire.) Once finished with that, simply type up a chart in a Word document and make it small enough to either carry in your bino harness or do what most do and tape it to the rifle. I highly recommend either taping it or laminating it to protect it from the weather.

• That’s the simplest version that you can make with what most people have in their garages. Other than that, you can download apps with calculators that require a decent amount of data for specific variables, which, in turn, gives

28 | Hunting & Fishing News

Photo credit: Anthony Wright

4. PRACTICE SHOOTING FROM UNCOMFORTABLE POSITIONS

A very good practice that I’ve done, which greatly increased my confidence at distance, was to simulate positions that I may have to shoot from to see what gear I have that can give me an advantage, such as my pack, trekking pole, bipod, extra clothing layers or maybe a combination of each.

This gives you that real-world simulation that makes you more efficient when trying to get on target while approaching a shot opportunity. Try to mix in some angled shots both up, down, off a tree, resting on a rock, etc., as well as the really enjoyable sidehill shot. You’ll thank me later.

5. SAVING THE BEST FOR LAST...SHOOT WITH AN ELEVATED HEART RATE

We may all be able to shoot sub 1” groups at 100 yards when we are calm and not under pressure, but how good are you when you’ve just hiked a steep climb or had to run to your shooting position and had to stop yourself from shooting because you couldn’t settle the crosshairs?

This is a good opportunity to not only get a quick workout in, but you can somewhat replicate the respiratory movements you’ll have when huffing and puffing behind the scope.

Don’t be fooled when you do 100 jumping jacks, sprint, pushups or do burpees that you see that your group sizes increase substantially. In this tip, be sure to focus on your buttstock in your shooting pocket as well as trigger control.

Although some may look at you funny at the range, just keep the main goal in mind: to give the animal the most ethical shot that you can provide.

All in all, I hope you give some of these techniques a try and let us know what you think or comment on what you do to practice becoming more accurate at distance.

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Bowhunters: Increase Your Accuracy In The Offseason (continued from page 25) Another question we get asked is do you settle in from the top or the bottom or do you just try to put the pin straight to the target? There is some debate here and, personally, I am not sure there is a right answer. I do think you should try to get the pin on the target as smoothly and quickly as possible. Some of that is going to depend on the way you draw your bow. For me, I come to full draw with my pins slightly above the target, but very close. I recently listened to a podcast a friend did who is a much better shot than I am.

He builds tension as he pulls up into the aim and executes the shot. Logically, that makes sense to me and I’m going to try it. Overall, one point I would make is that the closer your pin is to the target when you reach your anchor point, the better off you will be. Another point is whatever you do, do it the same way every single time.

Execution Shot execution is where I think most people have room to improve. Why is making the shot go off so hard? I think it’s hard because very few people can do two things at the same time. They can’t make the one hand hold the pin on the target and the other hand shoot now! It’s kind of a strained relationship for most people — myself included.

Ten years ago, I almost gave up bowhunting all together because I could not put the action of aiming together with shot execution. Here’s how I fixed it and how I think most top level bowhunters and archers execute a shot.

I am sure people are getting sick of the term “back tension” but I still think it’s the best way to hold and execute a shot.

What shooting with back tension means to me is that the holding weight and the shot activation happens because of increasing tension in my rhomboid muscle right behind my shoulder blade.

That “back tension” combined with a relaxed bicep, forearm and release hand is what activates the release. When I am doing it right, it feels like, as I draw my bow, the tension is building in my rhomboid as I arrive at my anchor point. I settle in and, at that point, my single focus is on the point I want to hit. As I am staring at my impact point, my bow arm is straight, not locked, but bone on bone and straight. I am holding the draw weight with my rhomboid and as I am “aiming,” I am relaxing through my bicep, my forearm, my wrist and my hand. That process causes me to “rotate or pull through” the shot and the bow goes off.

Hopefully, that paints a picture for you. Basically, what I am trying to achieve is a shot that goes off without me having to make a conscious decision to pull the trigger that second!

Rather, I want to aim so the shot will go off somewhat subconsciously.

Follow through Follow through is nothing more than the reaction to the bow going off. When the shot goes off, your bow arm should remain and the bow should go straight toward Photo courtesy www.goHUNT.com the target while your release hand comes back, almost behind your head. A couple points I would make here are that you should try to keep your head in the same position as the shot breaks. Watch it all the way to the 12 ring. Sometimes I see people move their heads as the shot breaks, trying to see where the arrow impacts. Don’t do that. Trust the shot and just let it go. Become the arrow.

The other point is that I think a wrist sling or a finger sling is a must have. Using one will give you the confidence to let the follow through happen without the fear of dropping or grabbing the bow at the shot. Will you really drop your bow?

Probably not, but why not use a sling and take one worry out of the equation? (continued on page 38)

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A Look At Vintage American Pump Shotguns For Bird Hunting

By Jorge Ramirez Project Upland www.projectupland.com Exploring the vintage shotgun market of the American classic pump shotgun. he Damascus twist-barrels glistened grey and brown in the T late morning autumn sun. I clutched the cold-vintage steel and wood in my clammy hands. The heft. The smell.

This wasn’t a dream–it was mine. Finally.

I dreamed of owning a vintage double-barreled shotgun since I was kid. Not one of those over/unders, but a classical side-by-side. I don’t know where the fascination started, really. Old cowboy flicks where hammered coach-guns were backing up the hero in the final duel? Action movies from the 80s and 90s where the greased-up muscle dude had a sawed-off double? Maybe that pile of old hunting magazines my dad had in the garage with articles about old doubles.

Or perhaps it was those vintage ammo-tin ads up at the old gun shops–the ones with the quintessential upland hunting scene! Y’know? The ones with the plaid-clad gentleman, steady behind his pointing-dog, pheasant bursting from the tall grass. Side-by-side aimed and ready. That did it for me. . . and a whole lot of other people too, I imagine.

As soon as I decided I was going to hunt birds, I knew I had to get an old double-gun. No ifs, buts, or doubts. I was going to buy the first affordable side-by-side I found. I had a goal in mind, and it had just become a reality. Never mind that my first shotgun was a piece of junk! My first double-gun was an old Hopkins & Allen 12-gauge side-by-side with 2-1/2 inch chambers and slightly bulged right barrel.

32 | Hunting & Fishing News

I shot my first few upland birds with that hunk of junk.

That gunshow find was the first of an ongoing love affair with side-by-sides (and a couple of over/unders).

After eventually getting rid of the Hopkins & Allen, I elevated my tastes in shotguns to better quality vintage American side-by-sides like Lefever and Ithaca, as well as an Italian-made over/under Beretta. I would never sully one of my upland hunts with anything but a double gun. I was part of a nostalgic group of hunters who felt the same way.

Not much has changed today. Take a gander at any upland hunting related social media account, and you’ll quickly notice that most of the top influencers all run a double. Every upland hunting magazine seemingly has a double gun emblazoned on every other page. Upland hunters have a firm foot in tradition, and tradition apparently is a double gun. At least that is what everyone is telling you. And that has perpetuated something of an elitist attitude towards other shotgun configurations.

Unbeknownst to many, alongside double guns the pump-gun and the semi-auto also have a lengthy tradition in the uplands.

But the pump-action shotguns are what intrigue me the most. They were common among “working class” folk, whose no-nonsense approach and practicality made the pump a match made in heaven. They just keep on shooting, racking shell after shell, dropping bird after bird.

Their simplicity and reliability having been proven in the field, many upland hunters of yore swore by the pump-action shotgun. Yet they remain overshadowed by doubles in the upland hunting community. Am I bold to say that I find the Model 12 and Ithaca 37 sleek and elegant guns, rivaling even many double guns that are so coveted? With unique designs that were ahead of their time and inspired later well-known models like the Remington 870, classic pumps are worth the effort of collecting and taking out to the field.

Here are just a handful of classic American pump-action guns that are worth picking up.

Winchester 1897 - The Winchester 1897 is what I consider the first “perfected” pump-gun. The Model 1897 was the improved design of John Browning’s Model 1893. It improved upon several features of the Model 1893, including strengthening the receiver, which enabled it to utilize smokeless 2-3/4 inch shells. Available in either 16- or 12-gauge, this external hammered shotgun became the standard that all other pump-guns would be measured against. These guns are popular among the SASS (Single Action Shooters Society) crowd and come in several variants, such as the common Field Grade, the fancy Pigeon Grade or the legendary WWI issued “Trench” version.

The Model 1897 was manufactured until 1957 and with well over one million Model 1897s in circulation, they can be picked up for a reasonable price.

Winchester Model 12 When you hear the phrase “classic pump-action shotgun,” more than likely the gun that comes to mind is the Model 12. The internal hammered Winchester Model 12 evolved from the Model 1897 and soon became one of the most successful shotguns of its time. In every cornfield and duck blind, a Model 12 could be found! The Model 12 came in 12-, 16-, and 20-gauge. The rare 28-gauge version is a sought-after collector gun, so if your grandpa has one of these, get on his good side! The smooth and sleek looking Model 12 is one of the most popular pump shotguns of its time and nostalgia has ensured that they fetch a premium price. You can expect to pick up a well-used field grade in 12-gauge for around $300, while pristine examples, sub-gauge and “graded” variants can fetch several thousand dollars.

The Model 12 ceased mass-production in 1964. The milled receiver on the Model 12 was not cost effective in a market where the economical and reliable Remington 870 was king.

There are about 2 million Model 12s that were produced, and that’s good news for someone looking to get into a Classic American Pump-Gun. Remington Model 31 The Remington Model 31 makes my list for a couple of reasons. First, it directly competed with the beloved Winchester Model 12 and did fairly well in its short run (1931-1949). Second, it was the inspiration for some of the most popular shotguns on the market today–the Remington 870 and the Mossberg 500. The Model 31 had a buttery smooth “ball bearing” action that rivaled any of the pump guns mentioned here.

Available in 12-gauge as well as the rarer 16- and 20-gauge, the Model 31 was well received but could not beat the popularity of the Model 12, despite its smoother action, and was ultimately discontinued. Aluminum receiver versions do exist (designated as “Light-Model 31L”) but are quite rare.

The Model 31 is the underdog on this list but holds up well against the more popular models. There were not as many Model 31s produced (less than 200,000) but due to it being overshadowed by guns like the Winchester Model 12, they can typically be picked up for a reasonable price.

Ithaca Model 37 The Ithaca Model 37 holds the record for the longest produced pump shotgun in America. Based on the often overlooked John Browning designed Remington Model 17, Ithaca made several improvements to Browning’s design. Marketed as a direct competitor to the widely popular Winchester Model 12, the Ithaca Model 37 saw production in 1937 after some delays. The Model 37 did not quite reach its popularity until well after WWII, however. Taking advantage of Browning’s unique design, the Model 37 utilizes a bottom port for loading and ejecting shells. This makes the Model 37 a great choice for left-handed shooters, as empty hulls are ejected towards the feet of the shooter, instead of across the face. This design also keeps the elements out of the Model 37’s action. (continued next page)

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Hunting & Fishing News | 33

Prep Your Gear For The Season By Zach Lazzari

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A Look At Vintage American Pump Shotguns For Bird Hunting (continued from page 33)

The authors Ithaca Model 37. Photo credit: Jorge Ramirez

There are over 2 million Ithaca Model 37s in existence– and counting! It is the only pre-WWII shotgun still being manufactured today. The Model 37 was originally offered in 12-, 16-, and 20-gauge and a true-frame 28-gauge is currently available. Well-loved field guns can be had for a couple hundred dollars, while those in exceptional condition, anything under 12 gauge, and high-grade examples can fetch higher prices and up to a couple thousand dollars in the used-gun market.

Final Thoughts on Vintage Pump Guns

What else can I say? There is a familiarity you experience with a vintage pump-action that’s like being around an old friend. It just feels right. Your dad and your grandpa probably carried one of these! And I find that makes these guns something I can relate to.

To say the least, I gave up some of my closet space for a classic-pump-gun. Today, I find myself carrying my old pump into quail country more than any other gun I own.

It’s a simple design. It gets the job done. But it’s still classy enough for the discerning upland hunter. A vintage pump-gun is built like a tank. I have yet to have any major issues with my Ithaca Model 37 that I could not repair myself. I cannot say the same for some of the classic doubles I’ve owned.

Dependable. Consistent. And who really minds that extra third shell? Sure. Scoff. Turn up your nose. They may not be for everyone, but their heritage cannot be denied. All I ask is that you give ‘em a second look and a second chance.

Take an old friend hunting, why don’t you?

34 | Hunting & Fishing News

Hunting Gear Outfitters www.huntinggearoutfitters.com pring-cleaning is still prudent for hunters waiting on the fall seasons. Seize the opportunity to thoroughly check everything without the rush of an upcoming hunt.

Gear Inventory Begin with a simple inventory. Create an itemized list of your equipment. Include clothing, everything in your pack and all game calls. This list will come in handy when packing for future hunts as well.

Of course the gear going into your pack varies based on the target species and season. Segment the list with a specific heading for each species. For example, your backcountry elk backpack gear list will look much different than a spring turkey pack.

After completing the full inventory, place a checkmark next to each item that will continue service in the new season.

Place a star next to anything that is worn out and ready for replacement. Segregate all items that require a cleaning, including boots, rain gear and anything made from Gore-Tex. Prioritize New Gear After determining which items are due for a replacement, prioritize these items and note when they need to be replaced. For example, you don’t want to purchase new boots too close to the hunting season. Other items that don’t require a “break in” period may be able to wait a little longer.

This is a good time to consider the conditions of your boots.

They may appear to have more life, but will they last through your pre-season training and the full hunting season?

Buying a new pair of boots during the spring leaves plenty of time to break them in before the hunting season arrives.

Clean Firearms and Tune Bows Firearms should be cleaned after each hunt but running through a spring-cleaning is also a good idea. Your rifle will be ready for summer range days and target practice after a thorough cleaning is completed.

Tuning up bows before the coming season is also useful.

Get a new string set if necessary and tighten down sights and other accessories. If you want to experiment with different settings and components, spring is the time to make these adjustments.

Scent Wash and Cleaning Run all of your clothes through a scent-free wash and store them in plastic bags or containers. This will keep everything clean and uncontaminated while in storage.

Use an appropriate detergent on your rain gear or other water-repellent fabrics. Companies like NikWax make detergents specifically for Gore-Tex, wool, down and other technical gear. Once these items are clean, treat your rain gear and water-repellent items with a DWR renewal agent to keep them shedding moisture properly. NikWax also makes DWR renewal agents that are available in wash-in and spray-on versions.

Finally, spring is a great time to check the condition of your boots. Hopefully you washed and treated your boots after the hunting season was over. But over time, leather dries out. Take some time to apply a Gore-Tex safe leather conditioner to your boots. With our Kenetrek boots, we highly recommend using Kenetrek Boot Wax. ...Get organized and excited for the upcoming hunting seasons!

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Photo courtesy Hunting Gear Outfitters

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The Lure That Stands The Test Of Time (continued from page 17)

Based on the more than 48 million Shad Raps sold in the U.S. and Canada since its launch, anglers worldwide have caught anywhere from 50 to 500 million fish with Shad Raps on just about any type of water imaginable — lakes, ponds, reservoirs, rivers, streams, seas, and oceans.

The Shad Rap has caught fish on every continent except Antarctica, according to the International Game Fish Association (IGFA). Equally impressive, the Shad Rap holds numerous world records for a multitude of species, including: splake, snook, pike, peacock bass, black crappie, freshwater drum, Nile perch, bull trout and African red snapper.

And maybe that’s why the Shad Rap continues to be ranked among the best fishing lures of all time — #27 on Field & Stream’s list of the “50 Greatest Lures of All Time (2006),” #16 by Wired2Fish on its list of the “Top 25 Bass Fishing Lures of All Time (2019),” Midwest Outdoors’ “Top 50 Lures of All Time, (2017)” #2 on TripSavvy’s “8 Best Walleye Lures of 2020,” #6 on Outdoor Life’s “The 15 Best Walleye Jigs and Lures (2013), #2 on Field & Stream’s list of “The 20 Best Walleye Lures for Spring (2019).”

“It’s one of the all-time great lures; one of the best ones ever made to be blunt about it,” said Rapala pro and Bass Tournament Champion Mike Iaconelli.

RECIPE:

Wild Turkey Buffalo Balls

By Lindsey Bartosh a 12 gauge girl www.huntingandcooking.com INGREDIENTS: 1 lb. ground wild turkey breast 1/2 cup almond flour 2 oz cream cheese, softened 1 egg 2-3 stalks celery, finely chopped 1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese

Photo credit: Lindsey Bartosh

3 Tbl chopped green onion Salt and pepper to taste 1/2 stick unsalted butter 1 cup buffalo wing sauce Blue Cheese dressing

INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat oven to 350. Cover a baking sheet with aluminum foil for easy clean-up.

In a large bowl, add ground wild turkey, flour, cream cheese, the egg, chopped celery and green onion, blue cheese crumbles, and salt and pepper. Get in there and mix stuff up!...

Form 1-2 inch size balls. Use an ice cream scoop to keep the balls uniform in size for even baking. Place on the sheet and bake for 10 minutes. While buffalo balls are baking, heat the butter and buffalo wing sauce up over medium heat. Once the buffalo balls are finished baking, brush a light coating of the sauce over each ball. Return to the oven under the broiler on high for 2 minutes. To serve, place balls in a bowl, pour over the rest of the buffalo sauce, drizzle with Blue Cheese dressing, and garnish with extra blue cheese crumbles and green onions or make a sub sandwich (as shown).

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Conditioning For Your Hunt & Life Beyond (continued from page 10)

Bowhunters: Increase Your Accuracy In The Offseason (continued from page 31)

Photo courtesy SNS Outfitter & Guides

Decrease the amount of alcohol consumption and kick the smoking habit once and for all. Just imagine how amazing you could feel come this time next year with you adopting solid healthy habits like these!

There is nothing wrong with starting small, but now is the time to implement. Do not put it off! If you wait until August to make improvements, it will likely be too late. Experts

say writing a goal down makes you 60% more likely to follow through. Who knows what else you

may discover about yourself journalling your progress.

I recently decided to practice what I preach. I treated myself to a day on the Wyoming’s mule deer country. Hiking through the sage, smelling the pine, feeling the sun on my neck was far more therapeutic than I had anticipated. It was a different kind of workout than I am accustomed to, but feeling the fatigue in my thighs that night was rewarding. Better yet, I inhaled a good dose of fresh air and vitamin D. I found such enjoyment climbing the hillsides, I already have plans to return!

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House cleaning A few more tips in conclusion. I am a proponent of building a shot process. Go through it every single shot. It can be many steps or a series of a few simple ones, but I think a shot process is a good idea, especially when you get nervous.

For example, my shot process is as follows: 1. Check my stance.

2. Check my grip.

3. Raise my bow arm and draw smoothly.

4. Find my anchor points: nose, corner of my lip and hand to jaw bone.

5. Feel the tension in my rhomboid.

6. Dead relaxed bow hand.

7. Align my peep to the housing.

8. Level my bubble.

9. Stare at the spot, stare at the spot.

10. Relax.

See it Over the past year, my oldest son has been working really hard to become a better basketball player. We spend quite a bit of time with him shooting foul shots and you’ll often over hear me saying, “Landon, see it. See it go in.” The point is that I think visualizing the process and seeing the shot go in before you toe the line helps. I think it helps a lot in archery as well to visualize the shot, see all the details align and work perfectly, and “see” the shot perfectly executed.

Lastly, if you have ever made the perfect shot, it’s a feeling that is hard to describe. It’s really rewarding and, if you can do it once, you can do it again. Focus on the details, do the work and make this the year that when those opportunities arrive, that the result is automatic.

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