HUNTING & FISHING DECEMBER 2019
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Finally, consider your outerwear. A breathable, waterproof jacket and waders are essential. Breathable membranes like Gore-Tex not only keep moisture out. They also block wind, and they allow your body’s natural moisture to evaporate and escape. A cold winter wind can cause rapid convective heat loss. And in a non-breathable rain shell, you’d quickly freeze from evaporative heat loss. A shell that blocks wind and allows vapor to escape will keep you warm and dry from the inside out. 2. DON’T SKIMP ON ACCESSORIES
Photo credit Ryan McSparran
3 Tips To Enjoy The Benefits of Winter Fishing
By Ryan McSparran
Mystic Outdoors www.mysticoutdoors.com
nglers who are willing to fish during the winter A months enjoy a number of great opportunities. Tailwaters that are typically crowded during the summer months can provide solitude and consistently good fishing throughout the winter. Good things come to those who are willing to brave the elements.
Fishing through the winter is about staying comfortable and having fun, even on the coldest days. Sure, you could stay inside and tie flies. Better yet, you could book a trip to Florida for some tarpon fishing. But there’s really no need to wait. Get out there and go fishing this week! Here are a few easy tips to get out on the water this winter: 1. BEGIN WITH GOOD LAYERS It might seem obvious that a cold day on the water requires dressing appropriately. But take a few moments to think about how you’re layering. Start by ditching the cotton. From your top to your socks, wear base layers that are made from merino wool or synthetics, and designed for outdoor use. Those Gore-Tex waders won’t do a bit of good if you’re wearing cotton underneath. Cotton traps moisture and it doesn’t dry. Wearing cotton can make it feel like there’s a leak in your waders. After your base layer, consider insulating layers that use down or synthetics like Primaloft. These materials retain a great deal of heat without very much weight. Synthetics are a great option for fly fishing, because they retain their insulative qualities, even when they get wet. However, many manufacturers now also make down products that are treated for water repellency.
4 | Hunting & Fishing News
Proper layering might seem obvious when heading outdoors in cold conditions. But be careful not to overlook the little things. Covering your head, neck and hands is just as important if you’re going to stay comfortable out there on the water. Consider packing two sets of gloves. If one gets wet, nothing will save the day like being able to reach into your pocket, and grab a warm, dry pair. In order to save your hands, practice releasing trout directly from your net. If you have your pliers in an easy to reach place, you can pop hook and let the fish swim from your net without ever submerging your hands. Likewise, you may want to bring two different hats. Bring a lightweight hat in addition to a very warm one. Sweat is an enemy anytime you’re outside in cold conditions. If you feel yourself getting too warm, put on a lighter hat before your head gets sweaty. Don’t forget the Buff or neck gaiter. It’s amazing how much heat you’ll retain with something warm on your neck. 3. PACK YOUR THERMOS If you’re properly dressed and you’ve got your fly rods and reels rigged up, there’s only one more thing you’ll need. And that’s a thermos full of something hot and delicious! It might be coffee or hot chocolate. Perhaps even chicken soup or chili. Whatever it is, bring something that’ll put a smile on your face. There’s nothing quite like sitting beside the river in peaceful winter silence, with your fly rod beside you, enjoying a hot drink and watching the river go by. Why wait for spring? Get out there and enjoy it! RECOMMENDED FLY RODS: We’d highly recommend taking a look at our flagship M-Series fly rods in the 10’ 3” 3-weight, 4 weight and 5 weight. These are our most popular rods for general-purpose nymphing and euro nymphing, as well as swinging soft hackles and streamers on winter tailwaters. Ryan McSparran is an outdoor writer, and a fly fishing and hunting professional based in Colorado.
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Hunting Gators By Jason Mitchell Jason Mitchell Outdoors www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
orthern pike have a rap sheet with ice anglers. These top N end carnivores have always held a special place in ice fishing lore simply for their attitude. Some of my earliest
ice fishing memories involved staring down a hole in a shallow weedy lake. The weeds seemed vibrant like a neon green carpet. We would stare down the hole for hours watching pike and perch swim underneath. Each pike seemed larger than life as they fanned their fins and stared at our baits. Watching the strike was exhilarating. I can still remember how excited myself and my friends would get when a bigger pike rolled in. We could see the snout of a pike sticking into our field of view like a spade shovel. We could glance down another hole a few feet away and see a tail. In a flash, the bait would be gone. The ensuing fight often left tangled lines and chaos inside the fish house. In hindsight, few of those pike were ever over five pounds but those early experiences were intoxicating none the less. I love to target big pike. I will stare at tip ups all day for just one bite, one fish that surpasses that magical forty-inch mark. Big pike will test tackle and the runs are intense. The fish run and roll below the hole in a confrontation that can only be described as violent. The water moves up and down in the hole to the point where your knees get wet. Big fish move water and simply pull back. I am always in awe when I get that first look at the broad, olive, back of a forty-inch-plus gator under the ice. When the head finally turns up the hole and you see the layers of teeth.
Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell
The big fish often have that under bite jaw. The bottom row of teeth begins to resemble a row of roofing nails. Their eyes look reptilian. Big pike are special, and more ice anglers seem to be discovering how special these fish are and angling specifically for these big fish. While catching pike through the ice can seem fairly rudimentary and basic, targeting trophy class pike often requires a different level of diligence. You also have to spend time on fisheries where big pike live. Classic big fish locations include big natural lakes like; Zipple and Buffalo Bay on Lake of the Woods, Upper Red Lake and Devils Lake. The Missouri River Reservoirs of Lake Oahe, Lake Sakakawea and Fort Peck. There are few under the radar locations like the backwaters of the Mississippi River.
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Of course, there are many opportunities north of the border in Manitoba and Saskatchewan in particular with a few drive to locations like Wekusko Falls near Snow Lake, Manitoba that are red hot for anglers willing to make the trek. Each of these fisheries will fish somewhat differently but if there is a universal theme, you can’t go wrong at least starting out on large shallow flats that are adjacent to deep water. This could take the form of a large incoming tributary that opens up into a large shallow bay on a large Manitoba Lake or a prominent reef or point that is surrounded by deeper water on Devils Lake. Some structure might be more obscure on places like Upper Red Lake where there is no real deep water or obvious structure, so the locations might be subtle. On the Missouri River reservoirs, focus on the large incoming creeks and look for secondary points and shoreline flats that are near the old creek channels. Some anglers believe they have to find weeds but there honestly doesn’t have to be any weeds present. Structure seems to trump everything. Some of these locations are sand or a soft bottom while other locations have some flooded trees or rock. Incoming water can universally pull fish up really shallow and sometimes tight to shore at late ice but what is interesting is that we often find some big fish at early ice and midwinter not that terribly far from the classic late ice locations. If there is one tool that is tailor made for catching big pike, my vote would go towards a classic tip up. Tip ups have probably accounted for more big pike than any other winter angling method. Classic tip up designs that feature a lubricated spindle and a spool that rests below the waterline are by far the most popular. I still prefer the old school Dacron line as I find it has little memory and is very durable. Dacron will soak up some water and freeze but that isn’t an issue when the spool is in the water. I use the heaviest Dacron I can find and will often run a sixty-pound test main line. I find that the heavier line is much easier to handle when fighting a big fish and the heavier line rolls off the spool easier when a fish runs. Oily dead baits like frozen smelt, herring, anchovies, ciscoes and tullibees often seem to work better than live bait from my experience. I find that dead bait often works much better if the bait is fresh. Bait that has been frozen and thawed or old bait that has lost the shiny sheen on the scales doesn’t seem to catch as many big fish. I also find that I catch more big fish if I can get the bait to hang perfectly horizontal in the water. I also find that I catch more fish if I don’t use any weight on the line to sink the dead bait. Simply pop the air bladder and squeeze out the air so that the bait sinks and hangs horizontal. If you don’t have to add any split shot or weight, it seems like the fish run with the bait better and don’t drop the bait as much. Many pike anglers use a classic yoke quick strike rig like the Big Tooth Tackle Big Tooth Rig. These rigs are simple and effective and available in both steel and heavy fluorocarbon. These rigs have a couple of small flicker blades and beads for added attraction and this extra hardware makes them legal in Minnesota where regulations prohibit using two hooks on one line unless the hook is in conjunction with a lure (thus the addition of beads and blades constitutes a lure). In really clear water and on water that sees heavier pressure, we have been catching more fish by tying our own fluorocarbon rigs that don’t have any additional hardware. One aspect of pike fishing that is often overlooked is where to fish in the water column. There are days where there honestly seems like there is no difference in that pike find the bait no matter where it hangs but there are days where there is a definite pattern. Experiment with hanging the bait next to the bottom or even right on the bottom and also experiment with hanging the bait halfway in the water column and right under the ice. (continued on page 38)
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Bull of the Month Montana #1 Non-typical BOONE & CROCKETT
Score: 431 7⁄8 Location: Powder River County Date: November 2016 Hunter: Garth Sessions Photo credit Josh Kirchner
MAKING THE SWITCH FROM RIFLE TO ARCHERY By Josh Kirchner Originally published at
View
this magnificent bull and more at the Elk Country Visitor Center.
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Directions: Take I-90 to Exit 101 in Missoula. Drive 1/4 mile north to 5705 Grant Creek Road. accessible with RV parking. Open year round. For information, call (406) 523-4545 or 866-266-7750 or visit www.rmef.org.
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huntingfishingnews@yahoo.com www.huntingfishingnews.net The entire contents is © 2019, all rights reserved. May not be reproduced without prior consent. The material and information printed is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. Nor does this material necessarily express the views of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. All photo & editorial submissions become the property of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. to use or not use at their discretion. Volume 16 Issue 10 Cover Photo: ©Twildlife | dreamstime.com
8 | Hunting & Fishing News
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“More time in the field.” That is something I read years ago
over and over again in our local game and fish regulations. They were talking about archery hunting and the opportunity it held. Archery hunts are notorious for being longer and more widely accessible than rifle hunts. It’s just harder, so the states can afford to let opportunity reign where it may without the worry of game populations plummeting. They know that all of the tags aren’t going to be filled. Being a rifle hunter at the time of reading this—and not a good one might I add—the thought of making things even harder perplexed me. To me, bowhunting was this thing that only a select few individuals were crazy enough to do and, when they were successful, in my eyes, it was probably all luck. As I sit here today, a bowhunter through and through, I shake my head. My take on bowhunting couldn’t have been more wrong. Making that switch from rifle to bow can be a hard pill to swallow, though. Here are some things that stuck out to me when I did so.
GETTING STARTED
Every adventure starts at the beginning and making the switch from rifle to archery is no different. First things first: find an archery pro shop. I’d highly recommend that you take yourself over to one of these and talk with them. There are also the big box stores, but, honestly, you never know who you are talking to at those places. The person may just be an employee, rather than a bowhunter. In pro shops, you are talking to the real deal. Most of these people are dedicated bowhunters who are willing to sit and chat with you for hours about the subject. When you’re passionate about something, it’s quite easy to do that. They are going to be able to point you in the right direction for what bow is going to work the best for you and your needs. That brings me to my next point. As for the bow, you really don’t have to go crazy here. Seeing what we see on social media can make it quite easy to think that you need to spend a small fortune on a bow and accessories. If your wallet is hard to sit on, then, by all means, go crazy. At this point, though, you don’t even know if you are going to like bowhunting or not. So, don’t be afraid of going with something that is a mid-tier level, a few years old or, even, a used bow. There are some great deals to be had out there. Some folks will buy a new bow every year, so used bows are pretty easy to come by. These are going to do the job just as well as that new $1,700 model.
IT REQUIRES DEDICATION
Regardless of the price tag that came on your bow, the real exchange needs to be paid in dedication. Bowhunting is an art and the only way to get good at it is to start “painting.” With time and dedication, you’ll be able to paint a pretty cool picture. This all needs to start with your shooting and form. Building a solid foundation on shooting is crucial to being successful both on the range and in the field. If you are starting from absolute scratch and have nobody to help out, I’d really recommend seeing a coach. Even if it’s just to get you shooting the correct way right off of the bat. Once you build bad habits, it’s really hard to break them. By learning right the first time, you won’t know how to do it wrong. Once you are feeling proficient with shooting a bow, the next form of dedication is going to be actually hunting with it. Just like anything else out there, hunting with a bow is just a decision. It is you committing yourself to a new challenge and, let me tell you, bowhunting is a challenge. The contrast between rifle hunting and bowhunting is a stark one. A different game and that game is hard to keep playing when losing outweighs winning by quite a bit, especially, if you were used to consistent success with a rifle. In bowhunting, failure is imminent. It’s just going to happen and it will happen over and over again. A hunter needs to push through this and keep learning. The easy thing to do is to go pick up a rifle again. Picking back up the rifle isn’t going to make you a better bowhunter, though. Bowhunting is, so keep at it.
THINK LIKE A BOWHUNTER
When I started bowhunting, one of my issues was that I kept thinking like a rifle hunter. Please, let me be clear. I’m not downplaying how a rifle hunter thinks at all. The fact of the matter is that they are two completely different methods of hunting. So, I think they need to be approached differently. Since I’ve started bowhunting, the way that I look at the country has changed. In the past, I’d just find a high point where I might be able to shoot my rifle from and post up there. I found success in doing this. There wasn’t any concern with how to close the distance on various hills that surrounded me. The draw that may have led right to the base of a hill went right over my head. The line of trees that obscured the view of a bedded deer didn’t matter. Shade lines didn’t exist either to me. Neither did my awareness of how steep something might be when I got there. Why do I need to know that stuff when I can just shoot right from here? All of these things matter in bowhunting because we need to figure out how to close the distance. If there isn’t an approach, there isn’t a shot to take. Of course, I am speaking about spot and stalk hunting here. Certain country just isn’t stalkable and that’s where ambush hunting comes into play. The years I spent sitting up high and ambushing animals from afar never caused me to really think about how to ambush them from bow range. This changes things for sure and I think where scouting comes into play way more. Focusing animal movement to a certain area takes time to learn. Learning game trails and active water holes is key for success on ambush hunts with a bow. Knowing where the animal is going to be before they are there is the goal here. Once you do find that, picking a spot to post up is also an art. Using a backdrop to break up your outline or obscuring the animal’s vision from you as they approach are things that you need to consider. Then there is the wind. Ah, the wind. The end all be all. Don’t forget to take that into consideration whether spot and stalk or ambush hunting. Not being seen from 300 yards away is fairly easy. Not being seen from 30 yards is a different story.
THE REWARD
While bowhunting might come with a lot of frustration and questioning your sanity to do so, there is something else.
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CLOSING THOUGHTS
Just this last spring I was watching a big boar black bear feeding on grass out in the open. He was so big that he had to spread his front legs apart so that he could reach the ground to eat. An hour later, I found myself up on the bench the bear was on. Without having a visual, I crept through a shaded pocket above where he was feeding in hopes of turning him up. Then I heard rustling 6’ to my left. The bear was curled up in a ball sleeping and I had disturbed him. After dang near kicking the dirt beneath him on me, the boar trotted out to 10 yards. I came to full draw but had no shot due to branches. The bear then trotted out of my life never to be seen again. Before this, I was teetering with using the rifle for this hunt. Had I done that, though, this experience would have never been given to me. After that bear ran off, I looked at my brother and said, “That is why I love bowhunting.” There are way easier ways to do things than archery hunt and making the switch to archery may be arduous for some. However, I assure you what you get out of it is so much more than a full freezer.
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STAY AHEAD OF THE WEATHER
A Coyote searches for a meal in the snowy mountains of Montana. Photo by actionsports|depositphotos.com
How To Hunt Coyotes:
All The Tips & Tricks For Success By Andrew Jackson Outdoor Empire www.outdoorempire.com
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redator hunting is in a tier above deer hunting. P Deer are prey. It is their lot in life to be hunted. While deer
hunting can be challenging, they’re basically oversized rabbits, and easily outsmarted. Not so with coyotes. Coyotes are smart. They observe humans and adapt their behaviors. They can tell a hunter from a farmer, and some have even learned to differentiate calls from real animal sounds. Even worse, coyotes can attack farm animals and, in rare cases, humans. Missing a deer can leave a blank space in your freezer. Missing the coyote can leave a rancher’s calf dead. Coyotes are one of the more satisfying animals to hunt. You can stalk them for years without learning everything there is to know about coyote hunting, but this primer will help you bag your first yote. 1. Before the Hunt The most important part of coyote hunting is the pre-hunt preparation. It doesn’t matter how good you are at hunting if you are confronted by a game warden while trespassing, accidentally or not. So, follow this checklist to ensure a good hunt: - Learn how to hunt coyotes (you’re doing this right now, good job!) - Learn your local laws about hunting and make sure you have the appropriate licenses and permits - Figure out where you’re going to hunt and get permission if it’s not public hunting land - Gather your gear and check functionality (sight your rifle, test out the electronic coyote call, etc) 2. Bring the Right Tools A coyote hunt requires, at the very least, a firearm and a coyote call. You can try hunting without a call if you know a coyote will pass by a certain place at a certain time. 99% of the time, however, you’ll need to call in the coyote if you want to have a chance at even seeing one. Coyote hunting is done at long ranges from a single location. The best firearms for this are rifles with small-yet-powerful cartridges, a scope, and a bipod. If you are hunting at night, you might want to also consider a coyote hunting light... (continued on page 12)
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How To Hunt Coyotes:
All The Tips & Tricks For Success (continued from page 11)
Cartridge Selection For coyote hunting, you want a small-caliber bullet traveling at a high rate of speed so it’s flat-shooting and hits hard. My favorite coyote hunting cartridge is the .223 Remington... Some other good coyote hunting cartridges include: .17 Hornet .220 Swift .22-250 Remington .243 Winchester 6mm Remington A larger bullet will cause more damage to the coyote’s pelt. You can use a larger cartridge, such as the 6.5 Grendel, if you’re less interested in skinning the coyote. Scope It’s rare to get a coyote within 100 yards. A scope is practically a necessity. For coyote hunting, I prefer between 1x and 2x magnification for every 100 yards I’ll shoot. That would be between 3x and 6x at 300 yards, for example. Too much more magnification and you’ll lose out on the field of view necessary for tracking your target. Bipod or Shooting Sticks You’ll need some way to stabilize your rifle, otherwise you’re likely to miss your shot. I like to mount a bipod on my rifle. They’re easy to use. Shooting sticks are another good option and can allow you to hunt while standing, not just prone or against a tree. Camo and Scent Killer Coyotes have excellent senses of sight and smell. In order to hunt them, you need to foil their senses. Wear camouflage over most of your body. Some camo is better than no camo, but a camouflage specific to your part of the world will work best. Don’t forget to wash your clothes with scent killing laundry detergent and to use no-scent soap and shampoo! Calls A good coyote call is a must, because coyote hunting involves bringing them toward you. There are two types of predator calls: Electronic calls Mouth calls
12 | Hunting & Fishing News
Electronic Calls This type of call is my favorite because it’s the easiest to use. An electronic call is an audio player attached to a speaker, most often with a remote control. You set it up where you want to shoot the yotes, go to your hiding spot, and turn it on. You can control the calls made. They are also loud enough to call in coyotes from far away. Learn how to choose the best coyote call here. https://outdoorempire.com/best-coyote-calls-reviewed/ Mouth Calls Mouth calls are harder to use than electronic calls. They also don’t carry as far. But there’s nothing like talking to a dog and bringing it in with Photo credit Andrew Jackson your own skill! There are plenty of online resources you can use to learn coyote calls. You’ll need to practice, a lot, before you have a chance of calling in a yote this way. Decoys A moving tuft of fur looks like a rabbit trying, and failing, to hide, which can cause even shy coyotes to come closer. A purpose-made decoy on a motorized base is a good way to attract coyotes. Sometimes, though, you can get similar results by tying a feather to a twig stuck in the ground. When the wind blows, the feather moves as if it were a jackrabbit’s ears. Hunting Blind While you can hunt from a bush or by laying down on a berm, a hunting blind will make your coyote hunting experience much more comfortable. Your hunting blind should be camouflaged to match the surrounding environment. Put it in the shade, which helps the camo work better. Also, make sure you can easily aim at where the coyote will be! A hunting blind is worthless if you place it with the corner facing the coyote. 3. Go Where Coyotes Roam Deer hunting involves lots of scouting, sometimes involving the use of trail cams. Coyote hunting should be the same way. Before you hunt an area, visit it first and make sure coyotes actually roam that hunting property. Look for coyote signs, such as scat and tracks. Kill signs are even better, as is hearing a howl. Where Do Coyotes Prowl? Coyotes, as predators, like two things: - Stealth - Vantage points You can expect coyotes to prefer edge habitat, such as thickets, which can obscure them from detection. They like being the ones to see you first, so they’ll also come from high-up vantage points. So, expect them to prefer terrain that’s broken up with lots of cover, whether it’s shrubland, rolling hills, or river cutouts. They don’t like wide, open expanses with nothing to hide behind. 4. Set Up for Success Once you’ve found a property that has coyotes and it’s time to hunt, make sure to set up your hunting site properly. First of all, be quiet!
Coyote hunting begins before you leave your vehicle. Slamming truck doors can spook them away before you’ve set your call down. Move silently and, if you have to talk, do it in a whisper. Don’t let the coyotes hear you. Then, look for an area that’s relatively high up but not at the top of a hill, preferably with tree or bush cover. That location should be downwind of where you’ll take your shots since you don’t want your scent to get blown toward the coyotes. If the sun is behind you, all the better. Coyotes have trouble looking into the sun, so you’ll be better hidden there. You’ll get better lighting, too. Once you’ve set up that area, it’s time to put out the electronic call and decoy. Head downhill (if you can) and put the call at least 30 yards away from your hunting spot, potentially up to 100 yards away if you’re confident in your shooting skills. Yes, some calls claim a 300-yard range. That’s unrealistic in the field. Though, you can raise the call off the ground to get better reception. If you have a decoy, put it several feet away from the call. The noise should sound like it’s coming from the decoy. Turn the call so it faces where you’re expecting the coyote to come from. Then, turn it on and head back to your hunting spot. Chamber a round (safely and pointed in a safe direction), then use your caller to call in the coyote. To reiterate: Stay silent Break up your outline with camo Keep the wind in your face Keep the sun at your back A higher vantage point is preferred Don’t silhouette yourself against the skyline, even when moving into position Now, it’s time to bring in that yote. Three Ways to Attract a Coyote Animal behavior can fall into four categories, sometimes called the “Four Fs”:
1. 2. 3. 4.
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Feeding Fighting Fleeing Mating
Coyotes are no exception. Obviously, we want to avoid making them flee. That’s what happens when they notice something isn’t right and they avoid you. You can use the other three behaviors to bring in a coyote though. Feeding Coyotes are predators. Like most predators, they are always hungry for an easy meal. A desperate coyote will go after anything. Chances are, the coyote over the hill is not yet desperate, so you’ll need to call them in with the promise of food. That’s why electronic predator calls have the sounds of animals in distress. Coyotes prefer to eat rabbits, so try a rabbit distress call. A scared, wounded rabbit puts out a terrifying scream. That scream says “danger!” to other rabbits and “dinner!” to coyotes. (continued on page 32)
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RUFFED
GROUSE IN THE WINTER
By Project Upland www.projectupland.com
Photo courtesy Project Upland Ruffed Grouse are one of the most well adapted bird species for winter. here are few bird species known to take winter well. This is why so many birds migrate, from song birds and waterfowl to our beloved American Woodcock. Even the iconic wild turkey is not really equipped to handle all the elements of the north country. Deep snow can prove to be a real hazard to turkeys. The ruffed grouse, however, is an enigma in the world of birds when it comes to winter survival. As winter closes in, ruffed grouse develop new bristles and feathers. The first of those are called pectinations that grow on their feet. These likely provide greater surface area for walking on snow. And they also help ruffed grouse grip icy branches that other birds would not be able to negotiate. More feathers grow around their beaks as the temperature drops to extreme lows. Their habits and habitat change, too. Firs become primary roosting cover for protection from the winds. As snow deepens, the ruffed grouse displays one of its most fascinating adaptations—burrowing. Ruffed grouse will build shelters much like igloos that have temperatures higher than the open air. Spending time in these burrows can help the ruffed grouse to survive the most brutal temperatures. Some theorize that a swing in temperatures created by climate change can void the advantage of these winter burrows. The melting of snow, followed by a cooling of the air, creates sheets of ice that wall off the ruffed grouse from the burrows. Our traditional “Grouse Cover” usually goes unused, as mature trees like aspen provide most winter food for the ruffed grouse. Ruffed grouse feed on the buds high in these trees in quick frenzies. One feeding frenzy like this can provide enough energy to last a ruffed grouse an entire day while living in its winter burrows. Because of this diet change, ruffed grouse choose to burrow in mature stands rather than young growth, allowing for fast feeding and fast exits to a burrow for protection from predators. There is a debate about how hunting ruffed grouse in late winter impacts their population. Although it seems to be a discussion riddled in opinion, it’s true that the winter is hard on all wildlife. Overexertion leads to calorie loss and possibly death. The ruffed grouse is not good at storing fat, so they are forced to feed daily. We could argue about whether or not their reliance on daily consumption makes them less vulnerable to pressure. But like all things ruffed grouse, we have to come back to habitat. If there is healthy habitat, the chances of survival are greater than in areas that lack a healthy forest diversity.
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Hunting & Fishing News | 15
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MID-SEASON IDEAS... By Bob Jensen
Photo credit Northland Fishing Tackle
n many areas where anglers fish through the ice this time IMost of year, we are at about the midway part of the season. lakes have a good cover of ice as well as some snow. We also have cold weather, lots of it. There are a number of things we can do to catch more fish through the ice this time of year, but you’ve got to go fishing to catch’em. That sounds pretty simplistic, but consider that getting cold isn’t that much fun for most people so they don’t go fishing when it’s too cold. With today’s clothing options and ice shelters, you don’t need to get cold. Dress appropriately and get out there. Here we go. Some people like to fish from the warmth of a fish house. We’ve been fishing from CORE ICE shelters for the past two years and really like them. They’re lightweight, so they can be easily moved with an ATV. There are lots of options available and you can fish in shirtsleeves. If that’s your style of fishing, wonderful: Enjoy it. If you’ve got a group of fishing partners that you enjoy spending time with, you’re going to have a wonderful day on the ice. When fishing from a stationary shelter, there will be times when there are no fish present. They often come through in schools. When they come through, you need to be as productive and efficient as possible. Another thing you need to do is try to attract fish to your area. A good way to do this is “pounding”. “Pounding” is a technique that many successful anglers use to attract a perch or walleye to their bait. You simply lift and drop your spoon so it “pounds” the bottom. When the spoon hits the bottom, it kicks up a little cloud of dust, and this attracts fish to your spoon. If fish are in the area, eventually they’ll check out your bait. Once you have some fish below you that are willing to bite, it works well to stop your spoon well above the bottom. Try to determine how far up the fish will come to take your bait. If you drop the spoon all the way to the bottom into a bunch of fish and catch a couple of fish from that group, the others will spook. If you keep the spoon above the fish and catch the ones that move up to it, the others won’t spook as quickly. You’ll catch more fish per hole. When the bite is on, you want to fish fast. Catch a fish and get your bait back down there while they’re still around and willing to bite. Impulse plastic baits added to a jig or spoon enable you to fish faster because you’re not re-baiting as much as you would with live bait. Ice-fishing season is in full swing across the ice-belt. Be safe and have fun on the ice.
16 | Hunting & Fishing News
TROUT TIPS By Zach Lazzari
Mystic Outdoors www.mysticoutdoors.com
Photo credit Zach Lazzari
ate season fly fishing means cold water temps, shorter Lfreezing days and slower pace on the water. Anglers can expect temps, and the fishing will shift into full winter mode.
ICE-FISHING Northland Fishing Tackle www.northlandtackle.com
LATE SEASON
This crossover season is often difficult as the fish adjust feeding patterns and holding zones based on the unpredictable conditions. Although the weather can swing from full blown sun to raging blizzard, the late season is a great time to power through the elements and chase down a trophy trout. GEAR UP If you plan on fishing for more than an hour or two, bring a full pack and throw in some layers and gloves. You might be wearing short sleeves one minute and a winter coat the next. This is especially important on float trips and hike-in trips where you are hours from the vehicle. I’ve had a few trips turn miserable because I underestimated the weather. The late season can deliver BWO hatches and midges that call for light tippet and small flies. That said, if I have to choose one fly rod, it’s a 6-weight. I use a floating line most days and carry a short sinking head for streamers. On some days however, it’s a sink tip and streamers all day with a 6 or even 7-weight rod. In this case, you are rolling the dice on a big fish. The floating line system is more versatile and makes it possible to transition between dry flies, nymph rigs and streamers but the sink tip is aggressive and worth the effort when a big fish moves. READ THE TEMPS, FIND THE FISH Water temps dictate where the trout sit and how they act in the late season. It’s an odd time of year because you may still find fish holding in a shallow riffle but they will also drop into deep, slow tailouts. It’s not always dependent on the water temperature in the exact moment either but more on the temperature swing and consistency. A sudden, dramatic drop in temperature will essentially shock the fish and push them into slow water while a gradual decline will keep them more active in a variety of water types. When the temperature dips below 50-degrees Fahrenheit, it’s time to shift your focus towards the slower stuff and protected pockets where the trout aren’t expending much energy in their holding patterns CALORIES ARE THE KEY Calories are critical, especially for brown trout in the late season. The spawn is taxing and the bigger browns are especially prone to attack a large calorie source regardless of water temperature or condition. This is why a dedicated sink tip is worth the time. You aren’t likely to catch a high numbers but a brown trout that is seeking a calorie rich meal to recover energy might strike when it wouldn’t otherwise. If the streamer game isn’t happening, dead drift a big stonefly nymph with a trailing general attractor nymph through the tailouts until something connects. I typically don’t switch to a dry fly game unless I visibly see fish eating on the surface. RECOMMENDED RODS For late season nymphing with the option to throw streamers or even an occasional dry fly, look no further than the all-around performing JXP 6-weight. This rod has the backbone to deliver heavy rigs, yet enough finesse and sensitivity to play big fish on extremely light tippet.
Winter Fly Fishing In Montana:
The Only Flies You Will Ever Need By Montana Angler For a guided fly fishing trip call 406-522-9854 or www.montanaangler.com In Bozeman at: 435 E. Main Street
inter fly fishing in Montana isn’t rocket science. W The fish have left the shallow riffles and heavy pocket water in favor of the slower and deeper pools. Once you
find a good wintertime run there will probably be dozens if not hundreds of trout in it. The trout are going to do 95% of their feeding between noon and 4pm, and you with some exceptions, will be nymph fishing. Trout are also receiving very little pressure during the winter months and are not very picky on fly selection so an elaborate fly box is not essential. The following list of flies are all you need to catch fish on every stream and river in Montana during the winter months including big freestone rivers, tail waters and spring creeks. There are certainly other patterns that will also catch fish, but you don’t need to get too complicated and don’t waste time changing out lots of flies. If you aren’t hooking up in the winter it probably is because you haven’t found good holding water or you aren’t getting down to the fish. Make sure you have enough weight to put flies directly on the bottom and use an indicator that detects subtle strikes such as poly yarn. Girdle Bug Stoneflies are important on every boulder strewn freestone river in Montana and trout are looking for stonefly nymphs even in the colder months. Although there is a plethora of different stonefly nymph patterns there is really
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no reason to get more complicated than a girdle bug (aka rubber legs). A black or brown size 6 or girdle bug trailed with something smaller is a good bet for freestoners. Pheasant Tail Pheasant tails catch fish year round and on every trout river in the world. It should be no surprise that it is also a great winter pattern. Try a smaller size in the colder months like an 18 or 20. Any variation of the pheasant tail will work. They are best fished behind a girdle bug or San Juan worm. San Juan Worm It might not be glamorous but sometimes you just want to catch a trout in the middle of February and San Juan worms are often the magic ticket. Fished in different sizes from 10 to 6 and in colors including red, pink, wine and orange they are almost always productive in the winter. Wire worms are a nice option for deeper runs where getting to the bottom isn’t a trivial process. Eggs Browns spawn in late winter and rainbows spawn in the early spring so it should be no wonder that egg patterns are effective all winter (especially late winter). Smaller eggs are often more productive than large patterns and roe orange, chartreuse, and cream are the most productive. Pink Ray Charles I don’t think there are a whole lot of pink sow bugs out there but this bug definitely hooks up, even on rivers without sow bugs. There is something about the color pink in the winter that just produces: pink worms, eggs, and attractor nymphs are all effective. My guess is they eat the pink Ray as an egg. I like them with beads for freestone rivers and beadless for spring creeks. Pink Soft Hackle Lightning Bug Notice the pink theme. There is a reason that the bins with pink lightning bugs and pink soft hackles are always empty at the shops from February to April. Trust me, just try it. (continued on page 38)
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All photo credits Josh Kirchner
LAND NAVIGATION VS. ELECTRONICS By Josh Kirchner
Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
ach year that goes by, I find myself trying to figure out E ways to get farther and farther from the truck come hunting season. This is both strategic and therapeutic, really. Strategic because getting farther from the truck, roads and trails flat out means fewer hunters. That’s something that has remained a constant and I think it always will. It’s therapeutic, though, because it pushes my mental threshold. Leaving the truck and living in the dirt comes with its own mental hurdles. As a kid, I remember my dad not wanting to venture too far from our rig. While we never got lost, it was something that he always made me aware of. This is one of those mental hurdles and having a solid grasp on different navigation techniques, I think will only leave you feeling more confident when you do leave the vehicle in the dust. Having a map and compass was something that I was taught to do from a young age. Today, though, we live in a different world. More and more folks are solely bringing their phones or GPS into the hills with them. I don’t think this is necessarily wrong, but it does arise the question of which one is better. Traditional land navigation or our new electronics of today?
LAND NAVIGATION Let’s start at the beginning here.
Before we had the luxury of fancy electronic devices, there was a map and a compass. These tools of the trade could guide us through the country and give us the lay of the land. The big picture. This is what I always have appreciated about looking at an actual map. There is no scrolling around on a screen. Everything is right there in front of you, begging to be seen. This is my preferred method for doing “homework” before a hunt.
18 | Hunting & Fishing News
I can get a solid understanding of the country and how it’s laid out. This helps when it comes time to actually step foot in it. Having country memorized, though, is not the sole way that you should go about utilizing a map and compass. Before heading out into the field with nothing more than a map and compass, you should really take the time to learn some basic land navigation techniques with these tools. There is a little bit more than just knowing which direction is north. While I’m not going to layout an in-depth how-to for this section, I will give you some things to look up. Learn how to read a topographic map, how to figure out where you are on said map (this is vital) and then how to apply your compass to that map in order to plot a direction of travel. Also, make sure that you set your compass to the right declination. This is going to be the difference between true north and magnetic north. Your compass will not give an accurate reading unless you do this. Using these traditional methods of navigation definitely takes a little time in the moment, but they are solid and won’t run out of battery life. ELECTRONICS If I had to guess, I’d say that the better part of our community is utilizing the aid of electronics for navigation. I don’t blame them as I do the same for the most part. If someone isn’t using some sort of mapping app or just a regular GPS, they are really missing out. Efficiency is the word that comes to mind here. The convenience of doing so is second to none and it’s now easier than ever to keep track of certain areas of interest and figure out where you are. Owning a GPS for the first time changed my confidence level in the field. It put me at ease and I even had to truly use it a time or two after getting lost. “Thank goodness for the Garmin GPS!” I remember saying to myself. Before leaving the truck, I always mark a waypoint right there. No matter where I am, knowing the location of my vehicle is what will guide me back to it should I need help. I will also always mark my camp when backcountry hunting as well as where I shoot from and where I find first blood after a shot. This all paints a picture and it’s one that is greatly appreciated. Of course, electronics are not fail-proof. Whether we are talking about batteries dying or malfunctions, they happen. This is something that needs to be taken into consideration. The battery thing is quite avoidable with proper planning and responsible practices. Making sure the battery is at full charge before a trip, turning the device off when not in use and, then, bringing along a power bank are all things that can help here. Now, the malfunctioning aspect? Well, that is something that I wouldn’t say is an everyday occurrence, but it can and does happen. Recently, a mapping app told me I was four miles east of where I actually was. Luckily, I knew the area intimately and was paying attention from the get-go. After restarting the app, my actual location popped up, not the invalid one. That could have been bad had I put my full trust in it. SO WHICH IS BETTER? Now, we are still left with that question from the beginning. Which is better? Land navigation via map and compass or electronics? My answer is to dip your toes in all of it. They are all valid and valuable tools in a hunter’s toolbox. Using electronics is really going to aid in efficiency. Yes, batteries can die and malfunctions—while not super common—can happen. For that reason, having the skills and know-how with a map and compass needs to be there as well. If I have my choice, I’m going to choose electronics because of the efficiency that comes with it. After using it for quite a while, not utilizing it seems kind of silly to me in this day and age. Logging a ton of data with a few swipes on a screen is much appreciated. However, I really enjoy having a true paper map in my pack with a compass. Should the batteries die or my device go crazy on me, this is there to continue my journey and get me home safe. Where do you fall in this? Do you prefer using electronics or the tried and true methods of a map and compass?
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1. GET ON THE GROUND WITH WHITE This is a tactic that I normally reserve for this time of year and for a couple reasons. Still hunting isn’t the easiest for me, as I simply need more practice doing it, but it can be very effective, especially if you have snow on the ground and have white camo (heck or even a white sheet). Don’t be afraid to infiltrate a bedding area by moving ever so slowly through it, pick up on a fresh pair of tracks and go after one or attempt to move in closer to where you’ve been seeing deer from your blind or stand.
“My cousin Kaleb was able to arrow this buck last week after pulling off a 2 man drive to perfection.” Photo courtesy Alex Comstock - Whitetail DNA
3 LAST MINUTE TACTICS TO FILL A TAG By Alex Comstock Founder of Whitetail DNA www.whitetaildna.com
cross much of the country, deer season will be A coming to close within the next few days to few weeks. All of the states I hunt will be closing after the
first week of January other than my metro sub unit in Wisconsin (Jan. 31). As we come down to crunch time, you can still fill a tag, but will more than likely have to give it your all. Here are three last minute tactics you can try to fill your buzzer beater tag.
A great example of this would be the end of my 2014 deer season. I had been hunting on the edge of some really thick timber, and every time I sat my stand the last couple weeks of season, I would either hear or catch glimpses of movement in the thick timber. I should have made my move earlier, but eventually I wised up and on the last day of season (Dec. 31), I decided to throw on the white and slowly make my way through the thick timber where I had been seeing deer until I spotted something and go from there. After still hunting for less than an hour that evening, I caught movement. I threw up my binos and noticed there was a solid eight pointer making his way towards me. I noticed a deadfall pile to my right, and setup next to that. The buck eventually made his way to twenty yards and I was able to get a shot at last light, but I hit a small branch and the arrow sailed high. Though I didn’t connect, it opened my eyes to another way of hunting, and it’s a tactic that I know I should use more often.
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2. DEER DRIVE Now, when I say a deer drive, I’m not talking about the classic deer drives you may be thinking about, most often done during rifle season with large groups of people. In this particular situation, I’m talking about having one or two of your buddies or family members bump small pockets where you think deer could be bedded. You don’t want the deer to be bolting when they come by you, especially if you’re bowhunting. This tactic was put on display perfectly last week in Nebraska, as my cousin and uncle were able to pull this off almost flawlessly. My uncle Rick bumped a small piece of timber, and my cousin Kaleb had a number of deer come by him, including a 150” 10 pointer that he was able to arrow. When executed correctly, this is one of my favorite tactics to put to use at the end of the season. 3. ASK AROUND FOR PERMISSION Does it seem like deer vanish from your hunting property or wherever you can hunt during the late season? If that’s the case, they most likely have sought out a better food source somewhere. Something that can work well this time of year is to drive around or ask around to see if anyone has been seeing a bunch of deer somewhere. This might be in a field that was never harvested or something along those lines. Don’t be afraid to try and get permission where the deer are. This is what I’d consider a true last ditch effort, but there are a lot of people that are done hunting by now that wouldn’t mind you hunting for the last few days or weeks of season. If you’re hunting property has become a ghost town, don’t be afraid to give this a shot. CONCLUSION There’s nothing like shooting a last minute buck. Three of my bow bucks have come in the month of December, with two of those being the last week of season. It only takes one precious moment for your season to change and make a year’s worth of work all pay off. Get out there, give these a try, and you just never know what could happen.
How to Clean, Care For & Waterproof Leather Boots By Andrew Jackson Outdoor Empire
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good pair of boots keeps your feet A stable and protected, whether in the urban jungle or out in the wilderness. But even expensive boots rot out and get torn up quickly when abused. You can throw away a $300 pair of boots in under a year without proper care.
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Good boots are an investment. How can you keep that investment safe? Keep your boots clean and dry. Obviously, that’s an oversimplification. But if you keep those two concepts in mind, then you’ll have the mindset to get years, not months, out of your boots.
Caring for Your Boots
Boots, like any other item of gear, need your care to not fall apart.
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Preventative care helps a lot with keeping your boots around for a long time. So, what kills boots? Contaminants and moisture. Keep Them Clean Contaminants could mean dirt, grease, mud, salt, and anything else that gets on or in your boots. They degrade the leather and wear at the other materials, causing your boots to fall apart well before they should. I’ll go into cleaning your boots in more detail later. The short of it is you need to remove everything from your boots that’s not conditioner, polish, waterproofing agents, shoes, or your feet. Generally, a simple brushing off works fine. Use a soft brush or a wet rag. You may need to deeply clean your boots on occasion, though. (continued on page 25)
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Hunting & Fishing News | 23
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How to Clean, Care For & Waterproof Leather Boots (continued from page 23)
Keep Them Dry Perhaps even more of a boot killer than dirtiness is moisture. Wet leather may conform to your feet, but it harbors bacteria and fungi. It’ll eventually rot, and the leather will split. You may also get a foot infection. Obviously, you can’t avoid sweating into your boots or dodge every raincloud. But occasional exposure to Photo credit Andrew Jackson moisture isn’t the problem. The danger comes when your leather is constantly moist. Waterproofing your boots will help a lot, but you shouldn’t depend on waterproofing alone to keep your boots dry. Whenever you take them off after a long day’s work, do the following: 1. Remove the insoles. 2. Put the boots someplace dry, preferably in front of a fan. 3. If they’re especially wet, put them someplace warm. Don’t stick your boots next to the fire, though! You’ll cook the leather, which makes it weak and more susceptible to damage.
If you want to use the warmth from a fire, then put them far enough away for your skin to be a comfortable temperature. A smarter alternative is to use an electric boot dryer. Those will remove all moisture without damaging your boots. Buy a Second Pair of Boots This may seem like a hefty investment, but buying a second set of boots will increase the lifespan of both considerably. Almost no work boot can dry out completely overnight. So, if you use the same boots day after day, they never dry out completely and will wear down faster. You can alternate boots with a second pair, which gives each pair enough time to rest and dry out completely. This will increase the lifespan of both by more than double! It’s also a good idea so you don’t have to buy and break in a new pair of boots if one fails. Backups, whether boots or knives, are always a good idea. Cleaning Boots While you can wipe off light dirt, you’ll need to deep clean your boots to get out mud caked into the stitching and gunk that’s penetrated the leather itself. Here’s how to deep clean your favorite boots: 1. Remove the laces. These can be laundered if they’re dirty, too. 2. Remove external gunk. Use a brush or wet rag to get rid of most of this stuff. You can also use a soft toothbrush to clean out hard-to-reach areas, like stitching and under the eyelets. 3. Apply a leather soap, also called saddle soap. Follow the directions. Typically, you’ll use a damp cloth to spread the soap around the boot. (continued on page 34)
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PHOTOS FROM THE FIELD
Cash Olson - Age 10. First deer. Shot October 17th at 300 yards with .243 on public land during youth hunt.
Dave Mason - Archery black bear . 375#+ and 61 inches.
Kayden - Age 12. First pronghorn. Shot October 20th at 120 yards with a 6.5 Creedmoor on public land.
Shay Schroeder of Helena (age14) first antelope, taken on public land opening day of Antelope season.
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DO YOU REALLY NEED A NEW BOW? By Josh Kirchner
Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
think I am alone when I say that buying a bow is an Ifordon’t exciting time. You’ve saved up your money and are ready a new look and feel. Buying a new bow is kind of like
buying a pair of boots in a way. There are so many options out there and the only way to find out what is the right fit for you is to try them all out. Draw cycles are going to vary as well as a multitude of other things. That is one of my favorite parts of the whole process. I’ll line the wall with bows and just start going down the line one by one. On top of the overall feel of the bow, another thing to consider when in the market is new versus used? A ton of emphasis gets put on new bows every year and for good reason I suppose. It is the latest and greatest technology and folks want that—myself included most of the time. However, I feel as if the used bows get shunned in a way—even if it’s only a year old. As if by being a year-old bow, it becomes obsolete, which puts us at a crossroads. Where are you going to drop that hard-earned money you finally saved up? Do you really need a new bow? Or will a used one—or even your current bow—be just fine?
NEW One of the best comparisons I can think of for buying
a new bow is buying a new car. When you buy a new car, the slate is clean. There isn’t any crazy history behind the vehicle. No serious accidents in its past that you might not be aware of. No neglect to maintenance. If anyone is going to neglect it at this point, it will be you as the sole owner.
Well, that’s kind of what buying a new bow is like. Straight from the factory and no unfortunate events from previous owners. Everything on the bow is brand new as well. The strings, cables, limbs and riser are all in pristine condition. There are no dry fires unbeknownst to you. Again, a clean slate. Then, there is also the benefit of the newest technology on the market at your fingertips. With that new technology comes a warranty, too. Yes, buying new has its benefits. It also has disadvantages, too.
Possible issues
Just like with new vehicles having possible recalls or issues they aren’t aware of yet, the same thing happens with bows. I bought a brand new bow that cost about $1,500 when all was said and done a few years ago. For some reason, the shop just could not get the bow to tune. It turned out that they were having this issue with this particular model on a regular basis at this point. There was a recall on the cam that came to light. I was out a bow for three weeks after the company denied the issue for about 45 minutes or so before deciding to send out the new cam. Sorry for the rant. My point is this: just because something is brand new doesn’t mean it is going to be free and clear of issues. The used bow has been there and done that—unlike the new one. So have the new models from the previous year.
New versus old?
Another thing to consider if you are definitely looking for a brand new bow is new versus old. What I mean by that is whether it is better to buy last year’s model, but still brand new. You still get all of the perks of a brand new bow, but usually at a more affordable price bracket. No, it might not be the latest and greatest technology, but it’s still new (and not that old). That year-old bow is in no way obsolete and it is going to get the job done just as well as the newest of the new models. Don’t be afraid to look at new bows from a few years back. After all, they are still new. They just aren’t getting the press that they used to in their glory days.
Photo credit Josh Kirchner
USED Each and every year that goes by, when November hits, tons of bowhunters across the nation start thinking about what bow they are going to shoot the following year. That’s because November is when most of the bow companies release their latest test model bows for the following year. Because of this, there is usually no shortage of used bows on the market for the taking. These hunters are simply selling off their current bows to make room for the new one they will be getting. It’s a fantastic opportunity to grab hold of a great bow for a great price. Sure, it might have some scratches on it here and there—especially if you buy one from me!—but that lets you know it has been places. It builds character! 28 | Hunting & Fishing News
Some things to keep in mind for used
Buying used comes with its perks just like buying new does. However, there are some things that I think you should keep in mind when doing so. First, if you buy the bow from a private owner, I’d bring it straight down to your local pro shop to have them give it a good once over. Let them make sure everything is in good condition. Are the limbs sound? Any funny noises on the draw? A pro shop is going to help you work all of this stuff out so you know that your bow is ready for action. The next thing to consider is how old the bow is in relation to the strings and cables. Most pro shops and manufacturers recommend changing these out every two years. These are under a ton of pressure constantly without you even shooting the bow. If it has been two years or the shop notices some serious wear and tear, change them out. It isn’t worth going into the field with something that you aren’t 100% confident in. KEEPING YOUR “OLD” BOW Here is another idea. What’s wrong with your current bow? Ask yourself that honestly. If there is something wrong with it or it’s holding you back, then, by all means, it’s time to upgrade. However, if there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, then what’s the rush? Especially, if you are Photo credit Josh Kirchner shooting the bow well and everything is tuned and dialed in. Why ruin that if one doesn’t have to? This is something I decided to do just this past year. All that I did was change out the strings and cables. From there, I kept on trucking and was able to fill another tag with that bow.
Photo credit Josh Kirchner
CLOSING
It constantly amazes me how bow companies crank out new bows each and every year. Just when I think that things can’t get any better, they do. Whether that is in the form of some new and improved riser or even new cam technology, that doesn’t mean that what those companies created in the past is bad in any way. In fact, it might be better if you think about it. If anything was wrong with them, people definitely know at this point and your decision can reflect that knowledge. Those bows have been tested in the real world—not just in a factory or pro shop. So, do you need a “new” bow? Is a used bow just fine? What about your current bow? All of these questions come with a load of other questions that reflect you and your current needs and wants. If you’ve got some money burning a hole in your pocket, maybe consider some new accessories for your current bow instead? Or possibly some coaching to elevate your archery game? Even better: take that money and go on that out-of-state hunt you’ve been dreaming about. These things are investments, much like a bow. I say invest in the future whether that means a new bow, used bow or another awesome adventure.
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he largest wildlife management area in Montana is T now 160 acres larger thanks to a joint effort by a conservation-minded landowner, Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks (FWP), and the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation.
“We appreciate Edna Schmeller, a RMEF life member and long-time supporter of our mission, for bringing this conservation project to our attention.” said Kyle Weaver, RMEF president and CEO. “This land has been in her ‘family for nearly three decades. Now it is permanently protected and opened to public access for everyone to use and enjoy.” The property is about 10 miles south of Anaconda at the base of the Anaconda-Pintlar Mountains. Previously surrounded on two sides by the 56,000-acre Mount Haggin Wildlife Management Area (WMA), it is now part of the WMA itself. “This is a critical stretch of landscape. It is a migration corridor for elk and mule deer because it connects winter range on the west side of the Continental Divide with calving and fawning grounds as well as summer range on the east side of the Divide,” said Blake Henning, RMEF chief conservation officer. “Plus it features vital riparian habitat that supports a wide range of other fish, wildlife and plant species.” The property’s habitat contains wetlands, meadows and forest lands. Beginning in 2020, FWP has plans to restore native westslope cutthroat trout and Arctic grayling to the French Creek watershed, which includes Oregon Creek that flows through the property. FWP manages the WMA for multiple use activities including hunting, fishing, trapping, snowmobiling and other recreational pursuits.
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30 | Hunting & Fishing News
NWTF Exceeds 1.5 Million Hunters Goal Three Years Early National Wild Turkey Federation www.nwtf.org
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ore than 1.5 million new or formerly lapsed hunters are M hitting the woods thanks to the National Wild Turkey Federation and its partners. NWTF chapters and volunteers working with state wildlife agencies and conservation partners across the country, the NWTF exceeded its Save the Habitat. Save the Hunt. initiative 10-year goal by recruiting and reactivating nearly 1,527,000 hunters three years ahead of schedule. “A general decline in hunters since the 1980s has been a direct threat to a cherished outdoor lifestyle and a crucial funding source for conservation work in the United States,” NWTF CEO Becky Humphries said. “The NWTF recognized this trend early and was at the forefront of finding solutions to reverse the decline. Our efforts to help develop and implement hunter Recruitment, Retention and Reactivation programs along with our partners have made a tremendous impact, but we still have a long way to go to completely reverse the trend.” NWTF chapters and volunteers took up the call and have supported these efforts by hosting mentored hunts, hunter education classes, learn-to-hunt clinics, wild game cooking sessions and a number of other events to attract lapsed hunters as well as new-to-hunting adults and youth to the outdoors. Reducing barriers was also key. The Families Afield partnership with the National Shooting Sports Foundation and the Sportsmen’s Alliance works through policy makers and regulatory offices to increase opportunities and reduce barriers, such as age restrictions on young hunters and the creation of apprentice licenses that allow first-timers to experience hunting under the supervision of an experienced hunter before going through a hunter education class. “The Save the Hunt. goal of 1.5 million hunters was part of a greater action by a large network of partners working hand-in-hand to boost hunter numbers, but we won’t stop there,” said Mandy Harling, NWTF director of Hunting Heritage Programs. “Even though we’ve reached and exceeded our goal, there is more work to do. With such a large force of partners working in concert, there’s no telling where this momentum will carry us.” The NWTF already exceeded its goal of opening hunting access to 500,000 new acres by 2022. As of Sept. 1, the NWTF has opened up more than 626,000 acres to public hunting and recreational use. “This is just one more example of how our chapters, volunteers and partners are focusing efforts for the benefit of wildlife, natural resources and the hunting lifestyle,” Humphries said. “Together, we will continue to capitalize on opportunities around the U.S. to open land to hunters, reducing an impediment that historically keeps people from hunting while providing new and veteran hunters places to go.”... For more information, contact Pete Muller (803) 637-7698.
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How To Hunt Coyotes:
All The Tips & Tricks For Success (continued from page 13)
Dealing with the Dead Coyote Coyotes, unlike deer, are not good eating. This means you have a choice of skinning them or not. Coyote pelts are not high-ticket items, but with a fur-bearer’s permit, you can still make some money with their pelts. Also, some fur buyers will buy dead yotes with the skin still on. “In the round,” if you prefer. However, if you are hunting coyotes to ease pressure off of a rancher’s animals, you may need to leave them to decompose in the wild. Put together a plan with the property owner so you know where you can dispose of the bodies. They’ll return nutrients to the soil, but it’s extremely rude to just dump them wherever. And don’t leave the corpses close to any water supplies! Common Coyote Hunting Mistakes Though it’s satisfying when you’ve successfully taken a coyote, it’s very possible for you to never see one on your hunt. What went wrong? Did you commit one of these mistakes?
Add a decoy so it looks to the coyote like a rabbit is flopping around, unable to escape, and you’ll bring them in. Unless it’s a coyote which has already seen this trick. In this case, less-commonly-used distressed animal calls can bring in a call-shy dog. They’ve heard rabbit screams, but have they heard a woodpecker in distress before?
Photo by songbird839|depositphotos.com
Fighting Coyotes are territorial animals. Even if they’re not hungry, they will come and defend their territory if they think some yote pup is trying to claim what’s theirs. Electronic calls are good for emulating an intruding coyote.
If you’re good at non-electric calls, though, you may be able to learn aggressive calls and have a conversation with a territorial coyote. This is exhilarating, but also easy to mess up. Mating The third way you can bring in a coyote is to pretend to be a female coyote in heat, howling invitations for a partner. Coyoting breeding season is from January through mid-March. This is the best time to use mating calls. It only works on coyotes which haven’t paired up, though, since coyotes mate for life. What Do You Do When You’ve Shot a Coyote? A coyote responded to your call, got within range, and is down from your shot. Now what? First of all, don’t move yet! There may still be other coyotes around. Continue calling for a while. You may be able to call in several more yotes to fall to your trigger. Once you are sure there are no more coyotes to shoot, it’s time to take care of the bodies.
32 | Hunting & Fishing News
Photo credit Andrew Jackson
You Were Too Obvious Coyotes, especially ones in areas of high hunting pressure, are very wary animals. Slamming a truck door or silhouetting yourself against the skyline can alert the dog to your presence, causing them to flee. Remember, you need to be as stealthy as possible to outwit these predators. You Called Too Aggressively...or Not Aggressively Enough! Coyote calling is an art, one that takes time to learn. An over-enthusiastic call can scare off a coyote. Timid calling can go unheard, so the nearby coyotes won’t know to investigate. Unfortunately, you’ll have to experiment and learn how to call coyotes in. Watching coyote call videos can jump-start your education, though. You Weren’t Patient Enough Coyotes are wary and stealthy creatures, so even if you call one in, you may not see it for quite a while. If a coyote is not confident in its safety then it will move slowly and through cover. Half of coyote hunting is waiting for the yote to reveal itself. You won’t be successful if you get impatient and move while the coyote is still hiding. Conclusion Coyote hunting is equal parts satisfying and frustrating. These wild dogs are too smart for their own good and can be difficult to find and call in. But with enough patience, stealth, and calling knowledge, you’ll be able to put down several coyotes in one go.
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How to Clean, Care For & Waterproof Leather Boots (continued from page 25)
4. Remove the soap. Use a second, clean damp cloth to wipe off the soap, and use a third, dry rag to dry off the boots. 5. Condition the boots. Apply some leather conditioner by following the directions. Most of the time, you rub it in, let it sit, then buff. 6. Protect the boots. After conditioning (or at the same time with some products) you should apply something to protect the boots. This can be a waterproofing product or a boot polish. Note that these steps don’t apply to suede. You’ll need to use special suede cleaning products, or else you’ll ruin the color and texture! What About Stains? Stains from grease, salt, and other contaminants don’t come out with normal cleaning methods. You’ll have to use one of the following tricks to get the stain out of your boots. Grease and Oil Just like with an oil spill, you’ll need to use something absorbent to clean up oil-stained boots. Baking soda and cornstarch both work. Apply them to the area with a damp cloth. It’ll take a while for them to work, but after several hours, you should be able to wipe away the powder and take the grease with it. Ink Rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover can be used to remove ink, though be careful because it might also take away dyes in the leather.
Apply the liquid to a clean cloth or cotton swab and blot the ink stain. Don’t rub it in! You’ll just push the ink further into the boot. You may need to use several swabs before the ink is entirely removed. Salt Salt stains are rinsed out, so you’ll need to dry the boots for a long time afterward. Light salt stains may be rinsed out with fresh water. Heavier ones require a vinegar rinse. If the salt stain doesn’t come out quickly, you may need to soak the boot and let the salt dissolve into the water. Scuffs Scuffs aren’t technically stains, but they can sometimes be removed by polishing out the scuff. If normal boot polish doesn’t work, then try toothpaste. Rub it into the site with a dry cloth then clean it with a damp cloth. Gel toothpaste won’t work. By the way, you can use toothpaste to polish plastic headlights, too! Waterproofing Boot With footwear, “waterproofing” means two distinct things: preventing water from getting to your foot and protecting the leather itself from water. Both are beneficial for your boot’s health, but the second is far more effective. Keeping Your Feet Dry Simply stated, if you want a boot that will keep your feet dry, you need to buy a boot made with a waterproof membrane, such as Gore-Tex. (continued on page 36)
Wishing everyone a safe and happy holiday & a prosperous new year!
www.blackbuttecopper.com 34 | Hunting & Fishing News
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How to Clean, Care For & Waterproof Leather Boots (continued from page 34)
There are waterproofing sprays you can apply to your boots. They can cause water to bead up and not penetrate. However, in my experience, they last a short period of time: hours, not days—if you apply the spray properly. Frankly, I don’t find them worth the expense. I’d rather get wet socks and dry out afterward. With good wool socks and waterproofed leather, it doesn’t matter if the boots themselves are waterproof. Wool socks are comfortable wet and dry quickly. Waterproofing Leather While a waterproofing spray isn’t any good, a leather waterproofing product will keep your boot’s leather protected from moisture and rot. Many of these products are made from animal, plant, or petroleum oils. They can also contain waxes and conditioners, so you waterproof and protect in one step. Classic choices include mink oil and neatsfoot oil. Both are byproducts of animal industries. However, I don’t prefer them, as they can go rancid. My favorite waterproofing agent is Huberd’s Shoe Grease. It’s made from beeswax and pine tar and softens, conditions, protects, and Photo credit Andrew Jackson waterproofs leather all in one go. Plus, it’s environmentally friendly and can be applied with your bare hands!
Repairing Boots Despite your best efforts, your boots will sometimes get damaged. You can sometimes repair small issues yourself. Almost all of these repairs will harm the appearance of your boots, though. Leather patches can be used to repair holes and tears in the leather upper. Shoe Goo can be used when the sole starts to pull away from the leather. Despite their claims, it’s not a permanent fix, but it’ll get you up and down the mountain. Apply a little shoe goo into the opened area then squeeze it shut. Wipe away the excess and keep the sole and upper together under pressure until the goo dries. Don’t use the boots until after the Photo credit Andrew Jackson Shoe Goo has dried unless you want it squeezing out and covering other stuff with tacky, black goop! Conclusion Clean your boots whenever they get dirty and allow them to dry fully before wearing your boots again. Every few months, depending on how often you use the boots, give them a deep clean then recondition and waterproof the leather. With a few minutes of care, you can extend the lifespan of your boots from under a year to several years. Treat them well, and you’ll have happy feet!
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Hunting Gators (continued from page 7)
“Oily dead baits like frozen smelt, herring, anchovies, ciscoes and tullibees often seem to work better than live bait from my experience. I find that dead bait often works much better if the bait is fresh.” Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell
I would say that a general rule of thumb is two to three feet off the bottom but there are days when a little detail like fishing right below the ice can make a big difference in success. What is interesting about trying to target big pike with a spread of tip ups is watching the feeding windows develop. On the very best days, there are flags popping all day long, but the reality is that most days will have lulls and slow periods where most of the fish seem to come in flurries. You can have an hour of nothing and then have an hour where you can’t keep every tip up in the water. You sometimes have to fish methodically especially when you are targeting a big fish on big fish locations where you might only get a few opportunities. I like to give good locations about two to three hours to see if there is any activity. A good rule of thumb is a flag per hour when targeting big fish. Another lesson I have learned over the years particularly when fishing in less than ten feet of water is simply to let the commotion settle down. Drilling holes and walking or driving around on the ice simply stirs the area up. Let the activity settle down and keep your noise down. There are times when you have to run up to get to a tip up when the fish is really burning off line but what is surprising is just how often the spindle on the tip up is slowly turning and then takes off as you walk up. The fish get spooked from your steps and start to run. I like setting the hook on fish as they are moving but the reality is that the further the fish goes, the better the chance the line gets caught on something underwater where there is enough resistance for the fish to drop the bait. Most importantly when targeting big pike is simply taking care of the fish. Have your hook release tools like a long nose pliers and jaw spreader on you. Unhook the fish when the fish is in the hole so that it isn’t flopping all over the ice. Stay in control of the fish when you lift it out of the water by firmly gripping the gill plate and hold the fish horizontally. Support the weight of the fish with both hands. Trophy class pike are just too special of a fish not to take care of properly. The reality is that big pike only get big on certain fisheries and most of these fisheries are either remote, large enough to buffer angler mortality or have special catch and release regulations that protect the top end fish. While small pike might be a nuisance to some anglers, I don’t know of many anglers who don’t delight in catching the big fish. Pike are also excellent eating as well and there are many how to tutorials on YouTube to learn how to fillet pike while removing the Y bones. In my opinion, a three to six-pound pike is perfect fish for eating and you can remove a lot of smaller pike from most fisheries with no harm to the resource. Eat the smaller fish and take care of the big fish so that they survive to trip somebody else’s tip up on another day. There is no doubt a fraternity of ice anglers who are very serious about pike and big pike in particular get a lot of anglers excited. There is a certain camaraderie that comes with a group of like-minded anglers and a spread of tip ups. For many, pike are the largest game in town. A perfect top of the pyramid predator that continues to inspire awe.
38 | Hunting & Fishing News
Holiday Appetizer Feature:
Wild Game Stuffed Mushrooms SNS Outfitter & Guides www.huntwyo.com
he perfect appetizer for impressing your dinner guests T over the holidays has to be mushrooms stuffed with
ground wild game, sweet onion and mozzarella cheese hot out of the oven... INGREDIENTS 1 cup cooked ground wild game 2 tablespoons butter or ghee 25-30 mushrooms Photo courtesy SNS Outfitter & Guides 1 sweet onion 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese fresh thyme ½ cup shredded mozzarella cheese salt olive oil DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 375 Slice sweet onion in large pieces about ¼ inch thick. Season with olive oil, salt and cook in a pan. Turn every 2-3 minutes for roughly 8 minutes or until the onion becomes soft. In a food processor add the wild game, onion and garlic powder. Blend/pulse ingredients together for approx. 10-15 seconds. Remove and add to bowl combining the meat mixture and both mozzarella cheeses. Gently stir together and set aside. Melt 2 tablespoons butter / ghee in skillet over medium heat. Add all mushrooms top side down, and cook for 1-2 minutes. Flip all mushrooms and cook for another minute. Remove from skillet and place top side down on a cookie sheet. Spoon roughly 1 tablespoon of stuffing mixture into each mushroom and top with fresh thyme. Cook mushrooms for 10-12 minutes or until stuffing is warm. For information on a guided hunt call 307-266-4229, email sns@huntwyo.com or visit our website at www.huntwyo.com
Winter Fly Fishing In Montana: The Only Flies You Will Ever Need (continued from page 17)
Zebra Midge Not much hatches in the winter (except some midges) and there are often more midges than just about anything else in a whole lot of fisheries (especially spring creeks and tail waters). A small zebra is almost always my point fly on spring creeks and tail waters and also a good option on freestone rivers in the winter. Go small-22 and 20. Palomino Midge Dry Although dry fly fishing dries up in the winter months, some tail waters and spring creeks produce predictable dry fly fishing over late winter midge hatches. A small palomino dry is all that you need. Griffith’s Gnat The Griffith’s gnat imitates a cluster of midges and on some tail waters like the Bighorn winter midge hatches can get pretty thick. When midges are clustering they become a target for trout that enjoy the benefit of taking in multiple insects in one gulp. Sculpin Don’t be afraid to fish some meat in the winter months, especially on freestone rivers where sculpins are common. The best way to fish these in the winter is just to dead drift them with maybe a few twitch mends mixed in. Fish your favorite rabbit fur sculpin pattern with a smaller worm, pheasant tail or egg pattern behind it and swing for the fences. Although the catch rates usually go down you just might fool that monster trout that hasn’t seen flies in months.
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