148
Practical Dress Design
and anchor with pins to the beltline CF, CB, and at side seams. Then from hipline up to waistline lap each pleat over slightly to fit the hips and waist (yoke line or belt) . This is a very particular piece of work, because it cannot be very easily done mathematically, but we know that the equivalent of the basic darts must be removed at the waistline near the normal location of these darts. To be exact, the difference between hip and waist measure must be removed. For example, if your hip measurement is 35", and the waist is 27", then 8" must be removed. If 2" pleats were planned eight on each side with a 3" box pleat at CF, one might take :Y,." out of each CF and CB pleat totaling 1"; and Yz" out of each of the others. It is better to have the pleats seem at right angles to the waistline, even though the spacing is not the same at all places. This method does very well, naturally, on the slender figures. The more curved or pronounced one's hips are, the more difficult it is to achieve the correct effect in pleating. It may be necessary to change the top fold of the pleat, also. The result is too much overlapping, which is obviously too bulky on the heavier figure. This figure should have a shaped yoke to support the pleats and flatten the waisthip area. 6. As in the straight full skirt, A (Fig. 167), it is necessary to hollow out the center front. Great care is required in fitting on the figure. Note that wfien this skirt sticks out at the lower front and cups in at the back at the lower edge, the center front was hollowed out or pinned up too far; therefore the whole skirt needs lifting in the back and sides. This fitting may be done in one of several ways: by taking a tuck across the yoke or lining back; by cutting off lower yoke edge at the back; by taking a deeper seam at the top of the skirt in the back, cutting off the top of the skirt at the back; or letting out the seam in the front of the skirt. This fitting problem arises when the person being fitted has a poor posture or a large abdomen. The opposite procedure would be required for a prominent derriere.
Marking Pleats on the Fabric
•
Use paper to plan pleats and to form a gauge in marking. I. Having decided on the size and number of pleats, use a strip of paper 2" or 3" wide on which
the pattern is to be made. Be sure that edges are at right angles. Mark off several pleats \\ith a ruler, and fold. Label line on which fold is made. and the line it is to meet, C (Fig. 167). 2. Place this pattern on the right side of the cloth and mark with pins parallel with the pleats. Slip the pattern down at intervals and insert more pins, until the hem line of the skirt is reached, D. 3. In firm cottons and linens, pin in pleats. then pin to the ironing board and press without basting. In loosely woven materials baste and then press. In wools and silks it is better to mark. baste, and press one pleat at a time, before going to the next. One cannot mark accurately the second pleat when measuring from a basted anc rounded fold of a pleat. Either measure from a pin or from a pressed flat edge of the previous pleat. or pin mark all pleats before creasing any. Plaids and stripes make pleating easier. In using pins to mark, always insert them lengthwise, exactly parallel on the pleat line. But when folding a pleat over to a line to hold in position for pressing or basting, place the pin crosswise to the pleat. It does not slip and keeps the pleat from puckering up and down. 4. Basting may be done first along the top folds only. Pressing these folds first until perfectly flat and straight before basting down into position makes them flatter and prevents a mark, but there is danger of stretching the edge of the pleat or of shrinking unevenly. Another method is to baste all the pleats flat first, partially press, remove bastings, slip paper under each pleat, and complete pressing. Turn to the wrong side to press the underfolds thoroughly. If the hem has not been taken pre,i ously, learn not to press too thoroughly on this line. When the hem has been finished, give the hem an extra hard pressing, especia11y on the wrong side. Be sure to clip lengthwise seams at the back edge of a pleat where they escape from the hem, to allow them to lie flat in the proper direction, E (Fig. 167). 5. Pressing pleats is a most exacting process but easier with a steam iron working on the wrong side. ' iVithout a steam iron place a dry pressing cloth on the right side of pleats, dampen evenly with a moist sponge, and press until almost dry. lifting the iron often, pressing down on the iron with a slight rotary movement, and pushing the iron with the pointed end of the iron lightly in the lengthwise direction of the pleats (or with the