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Ground
Rules
I set two important ground rules for this diet—a code of conduct to prevent palate fatigue and ensure I could consume maximum tacos:
No. 1: No chips and salsa. Unnecessary fillers must be avoided. No. 2: Variety isn’t merely the spice of life; it’s the savior of the palate. Mixing up styles of tacos throughout each day is crucial.
day 1: tuesday award-winning breakfast tacos ($10.25) at katalina’s
PHOTOS: KATALINA'S, JODI MILLER; THE KITCHEN and Condado, Meghan Ralston
Naysayers who dis the too-small Katalina’s, here’s an insider tip: Visit this Harrison West Latino gem on a weekday morning, when diners move in and out with fluidity. Tip No. 2: Skip the pancake balls, and go for the breakfast tacos. They’re exactly what breakfast tacos should be—fresh and big enough to fill you up, but not so big they weigh you down. The order includes three white corn tortillas filled with chorizo-flecked scrambled eggs. A smear of tomatillo sauce gives the tacos bite, pico de gallo some brightness, avocado richness and Snowville crème fraiche, reminiscent of Mexican crema, adds a sour, cooling taste. katalinascolumbus.com
Zucchini Tacos ($7.99 lunch special) at El Vaquero
As I was walking out of the office, a co-worker asked where I was off to on my tour. She was taken aback by the answer: I’d be lunching on vegetarian tacos at Columbus’ ubiquitous Mexican restaurant. I suppose I’d have had the same reaction—El Vaquero is the spot I think of when I want to satisfy my taste for nothing-fancy, cheese-andsauce-slathered Mexican food. On the flip side, El Vaquero’s Zucchini Tacos are like vegetarian fajitas without the sizzling skillet. The lunch portion includes two tortillas thrown on a griddle until slightly brown—they’re crisp but not crunchy—and filled with piping-hot sauteed veggies, including zucchini, yellow squash, tomatoes and onions, with the option of black beans or refried beans on the side. Broccoli coleslaw, one of my favorite un-fried, carb-free sides at El Vaquero, was also served on the side. vaquerorestaurant.com
Banh Mi tacos ($12) at Wolf’s Ridge Brewing
Taco Tuesday at The Kitchen
What’s fun about The Kitchen’s weekly taco Tuesday dinner is also what makes it a bit of a gamble: The theme and menu change each week. It may be inspired by the season, a movie, famous LGBT activists—whatever is the whim of owners Anne Boninsegna and Jen Lindsey. On the Tuesday I dropped in, the tacos paid tribute to children’s book author Mo Williams and his “Phinn & Harper” books. Stopping by around 8 p.m. (service is 5 to 9 p.m.), I was told I’d just missed a collection of hyper children. The kid-friendly focus is probably why the offerings were simple and familiar (including the Bus Driver with classic ground beef, tomato, lettuce and cheese). The standout was the corn tortilla-wrapped Dr. Cat ($4) with chunks of crusted, meaty salmon, dried cranberries and honey Dijon shallot sauce. On the downside, the brittle corn tortillas dissipated under moist fillings. Next time, I’ll go for flour. thekitchencolumbus.com
day 2:
wednesday
Breakfast Tacos at Cuco’s Taqueria
The taco gods are against me. This is what I think at 8 a.m., looking at Cuco’s breakfast menu. Online, there was a whole section of breakfast taco options. But on this laminated list of dishes, there’s no promise of eggs and meat in a tortilla. Thankfully, the server tells me they get off-the-menu orders for breakfast tacos all the time. They can mix just about any protein or veggie on the menu with eggs. Now we’re talking. I quickly order cactus and egg, machaca (shredded beef) and egg and chorizo and egg, all on soft and warm flour tortillas. Hands down, my first choice was this morning’s winner. Sauteed until tender, the cactus was slightly sour, a pleasant counterbalance to scrambled eggs, tomato, cheese and cilantro. The shredded beef—a hunk of tender pulled-apart beef tossed with eggs, peppers and onions— was a close second. cucostaqueria.com
The crux of a good banh mi hinges on one thing—crispy and soft French bread. I wondered if I would miss it in Wolf's Ridge Brewing's taco variation. Chef Seth Lassak must have anticipated this very thought, as the white corn tortillas are charred until spotted with blistery black bubbles. It added the perfect extra crunch. Inside, braised pork was tender, pickled carrots and radish crisp and fresh. Slices of jalapeno with half the seeds removed meant the tacos were sometimes spicy, sometimes not. Fatty and bright Sriracha aioli tied it all together. wolfsridgebrewing.com
Build-your-own (starts at $3) at Condado
Condado has proved polarizing. Some people love the sushi-style build-your-own menu. Others (ahem, husband) worry about creating the perfect combo. Sure, Condado is a little gimmicky (their shtick is double decker-style tacos adhered with schmears of guacamole, queso and sour cream). But whenever I visit with a group of friends, there are always wild debates over which sauce will pair best with which order. I like being in the driver’s seat here. My go-to: Sweet Lucy with braised beef brisket, jicama slaw, pickled red onions, smoked cheddar, corn salsa and chipotle honey, and the Goody-Goody with Thai chili tofu, black beans, red cabbage, queso fresco, pineapple salsa and cilantro-lime aioli. condadotacos.com
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