THE EMOTION OF SMOKE - PEPSICO’S PAT CLIFFORD INTERVIEW
SMOKED INGREDIENTS VERSUS SMOKE FLAVOURINGS
DOUBLE-EDGED SWORD - THE EU’S SMOKE FLAVOURINGS BAN
MIDDLE EASTERN BARBECUE - THE BESMOKE ESSENTIALS
ENGLISH PROVENDER COMPANY AT THE SMOKEADEMY PAST, PRESENT & FUTURE - A HISTORY OF SMOKE WITH JINGANG SHI
HUW’S NEWS, EVENTS & UPDATES
A warm welcome to Dark Nights 2025, our fourth bi-annual smoke report. Here we discuss the latest developments in the world of smoke and grill flavour.
One of the recurring themes in our report series is the ‘emotion of smoke’ and the question of just exactly what it is about human evolution that makes us love smoky flavours.
We touch on this in our analysis of Middle Eastern cooking traditions that have long centred on families, friends and neighbours gathering together around the warmth of the fire to share life experiences.
Tried and tested cooking techniques from the region serve to explain its enduring influence in our food today.
I gained a first-hand sense of that when I was in Turkey recently demonstrating some of our products at a major food exhibition along with Azelis, our distributor there.
The Bosphorus is truly where east meets west and as Arabic people migrated across it in the past, they brought and shared their ability to cook over open fire. The upshot is that Turkey has played a major role in driving the global phenomenon we know today as barbecue.
As well as the pleasure and privilege of working alongside Azelis representatives, the visit was an ideal opportunity to learn more about Turkey’s strong street food and café culture. There is a vibrant, exciting smoke and grill scene in the country that can trace its savoury origins right back to the ancient roots of using fire to cook meat, fish and vegetables.
Another learning opportunity in the past few months came from going to Frankfurt to exhibit at IFFA, the world’s leading trade fair for innovations in meat and alternative protein processing. For the first time, Besmoke had its own stand. We learned a lot about what development work we need to do to better meet the needs of the meat industry. We know that we have been competing against very low-cost smoke flavourings, but at the same time we met people clearly on board with ‘low and slow’ who told us they know Besmoke is technically better and produces better flavour. Thanks to IFFA, we now have a much stronger understanding of exactly what we need to achieve through innovation and NPD to help these meat processors, from smallscale firms up to big corporates, seeking to navigate the impact of the new EU smoke flavourings ban.
Once again in Dark Nights, we strive to show that our work is a fusion of art and science.
To support that, we offer insight from three external contributors. Flavour expert Jingang Shi responds to questions we put to him on the emotion of smoke and the history, current state of play and future of smoked ingredients. Pat Clifford, Principal Research Chef for PepsiCo, gives his take on the emotion of smoke, and Simon Whitby and Melissa Penny from English Provender Company reflect on their visit to our Smokeademy.
At the same time, senior members of our scientific, innovation and technical sales teams explain the huge differences between the EU’s soon-to-be-banned smoke flavourings and the natural smoke flavour profiles we produce.
Among the commentators is Science & Innovation Manager Elena Cristea who is soon to publish a paper on the benefits and differentiators of temperature and oxygen availability on smoke generation, adding further scientific analysis and authority to our market proposition.
Whether you approach us from a scientific or a creative food standpoint, we aim for the same destination: that what we sell is more than just flavour, it’s the emotion of smoke. For the past 50 years –albeit only a blip in the whole history of smoke and grill – the appreciation and sharing of smoke flavour has been hijacked by the industrialised smoke flavourings lobby with its ultra-high temperatures, various genotoxins and lack of nuance, subtlety and, indeed, taste. To an extent we have been tarred with the same tarry smoke brush. We have to unravel that mess and return people to a traditional process and the appreciation of truly great smoke flavour. Let’s disrupt. Let’s finally reclaim the emotion of smoke for the world to enjoy.
“Whether you approach us from a scientific or a creative food standpoint, we aim for the same destination: that what we sell is more than just flavour, it’s the emotion of smoke.”
“The choice of wood can vary by region and availability, but the goal is always the same: to achieve layers of flavour through slow, open-flame grilling.”
Used in Lebanon, Palestine and Syria.
Mild, earthy and slightly sweet flavour.
Abundant in the Levant, olive wood burns hot and slow, adding a subtly fruity smoke that complements chicken, lamb and vegetables.
Perfect for desert climates, provides long-burning coals ideal for grilling kofta or whole cuts over time.
Creates a deep flavour that is dry, smoky and slightly bitter. Used in the Arabian Peninsula, especially Saudi Arabia and the UAE.
Orange and lemon adds a delicate aroma that goes especially well with chicken and seafood.
Flavour is bright, fragrant and slightly sweet.
Used in Jordan and North Africa including Egypt.
Traditionally used after pruning vines and offering a punchy, aromatic smoke perfect for quick-seared kebabs.
Used in rural Lebanon, Turkey and Iran and characterised by a slightly tart, sharp smoke flavour.
The woods behind the smoke: The regional Middle Eastern wood types that give mashawi its signature aromas.
Barbecue, or mashawi as it is known in Arabic, conjures up the irresistible aroma of sizzling meats marinated in rich spices.
Barbecue, or mashawi as it is known in Arabic, conjures up the irresistible aroma of sizzling meats marinated in rich spices.
Unlike the sweet, smoky sauces of American barbecue featured in Light Nights 2025, Middle Eastern marinades rely on aromatic regional spices and herbs such as cumin, coriander, paprika, turmeric, garlic, sumac and saffron. Yogurt, lemon juice, olive oil and vinegar are often used as the base, not just for flavour but to tenderise the meat.
Smoke is not just a byproduct of cooking, it’s an essential ingredient.
Popular proteins include lamb, which is often cubed and skewered as shish kebab or slow-roasted as shawarma, and chicken, commonly marinated in yogurt, garlic and spices for shish taouk. Beef is also prevalent in some regions, typically grilled as juicy kofta and minced with onion, parsley and warm spices. And in coastal areas such as Lebanon and the Gulf, freshly caught and grilled fish and seafood is only lightly seasoned so that the natural flavours can shine through.
Cooking methods vary across the Middle East. In
the Levant, skewers of meat are cooked over charcoal grills, allowing the fat to drip and flames to kiss the meat with a smoky grill flavour. In the Gulf, mangals (portable grills) are common. Traditional clay ovens, like the tandoor in parts of India and Central Asia, add another layer of smokiness and char.
Smoke is not just a byproduct of cooking, it’s an essential ingredient. Middle Eastern pitmasters often use natural lump charcoal or specific types of aromatic wood to infuse meats with depth and richness. In rural areas, it’s common to burn olive wood, prized for its dense smoke and mild, slightly sweet flavor. In desert regions, acacia wood or samar wood is used. Both produce long-lasting coals and a subtle earthy aroma.
The choice of wood can vary by region and availability, but the goal is always the same: to achieve layers of flavour through slow, open-flame grilling.
Traditional mashawi relies on glowing embers and controlled smoke, allowing the spices to mingle with the natural essence of the wood.
Alongside or instead of meat are grilled vegetables such as eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, onions and zucchini. These are frequent companions to hummus, smoky baba ghanoush, tabbouleh and warm, fluffy flatbreads fresh off the grill.
“For tens of thousands of years, humans have relied on smoke as both a tool for survival and a source of flavour. Ancient tribes discovered that smoking preserved meat and fish not only delayed decomposition, but also enhanced taste, texture and colour.”
Professor Dave Baines, Besmoke’s Director of Innovation, charts the background to the EU’s ban on smoke flavourings and gives his expert opinion on its likely aftermath.
For tens of thousands of years, humans have relied on smoke as both a tool for survival and a source of flavour. Ancient tribes discovered that smoking preserved meat and fish not only delayed decomposition, but also enhanced taste, texture and colour.
Beyond these practical benefits, smoke also reduced surface bacteria, making food safer and more appealing.
As technology advanced, so the use of smoke shifted from pure preservation to flavour enhancement, and eventually, innovations allowed for the creation of concentrated smoke flavourings.
The first instance of liquid smoke production was recorded in Kansas City during the 1880s.
But it is only in the past 50 years or so that we have seen wider industrialisation of the process.
Over that time technology began to scale up in earnest and smoke flavourings obtained by hightemperature pyrolysis, followed by fractionation and purification of the resulting condensed smoke became popular.
In Europe, the use of smoke flavourings is strictly regulated. Two key pieces of legislation set the framework: Regulation 2065/2003 established the safety assessment and authorisation process for smoke flavourings, while Regulation 1334/2008 defined labelling requirements.
Under these laws, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) was tasked with evaluating submissions from manufacturers, reviewing detailed dossiers on composition, production methods, toxicological data and intended applications.
The scrutiny was largely driven by health concerns. In December 2002, the EU’s Scientific Committee on Food concluded that polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), naturally present in smoke and smoked foods, were genotoxic carcinogens. This means they could damage DNA and potentially cause cancer.
As a result, EFSA undertook a comprehensive evaluation of 16 submitted smoke flavourings. By 2010, only 10 had received approval, with strict conditions on their permitted use levels in specific food categories. Notably, only 3 were deemed to present ‘no safety concern’ while the rest were authorised under tightly controlled limits. These approved substances formed the “positive list” under Regulation 1321/2013, effective from January 2014.
Smoke and fire is
Smoke is a tool for survival 800,000 years ago
2 Million years ago
50 years ago 10,000 years ago
EU law required all approved smoke flavourings to undergo re-evaluation every ten years. For the 2024 renewal, eight of the original ten flavourings were resubmitted; two were withdrawn from the EU market, though they remain legal elsewhere. The renewal process was complicated by the introduction of stricter requirements, including more comprehensive toxicological and genotoxicity studies as well as environmental safety assessments.
Manufacturers’ laboratories warned that it was impossible to complete what were inevitably complex and time-consuming toxicity studies before the January 2024 deadline. To address this, the Commission granted six-month extensions for some specified studies. In any event, if a submission failed, the smoke flavouring would be withdrawn from the market as of January 2024, leaving manufacturers with little time to reformulate their products.
In November 2023, EFSA published its findings. Six of the eight resubmitted flavourings were found to contain two suspected genotoxic carcinogens—furan2(5H)-one and benzene-1,2-diol (catechol). For the other two, insufficient data was provided, preventing EFSA from ruling out potential risks. EFSA’s stance was clear: if even one component of a mixture is genotoxic, the entire mixture must be treated as genotoxic. Consequently, none of the eight flavourings passed the safety review.
flavourings. Regulation 1321/2013 was amended to delete them from the authorised list, setting out transition periods for their phase-out. Products such as cheese, meat, and fish can continue using smoke flavourings until July 2029, while all other categories, including sauces, soups and seasonings, must comply by July 2026.
Let’s look at the two compounds at the centre of all this in more detail. Furan-2(5H)-one, derived from sugars during heating processes, is thought to be ubiquitous in cooked foods. Catechol, meanwhile, occurs naturally in many roasted or grilled foods and is found at particularly high levels in coffee. The fact that these substances are widespread raises questions about the broader implications of the ban. If such compounds are inherently dangerous, then everyday dietary staples could also be at risk.
The decision to ban smoke flavourings has shaken the industry, though it was not entirely unexpected given EFSA’s longstanding position on genotoxicity. Food manufacturers now face the challenge of reformulating products, either by reverting to traditional smoking methods or using smoked ingredients derived from other flavouring substances.
As food manufacturers adapt to the new rules, the debate over whether this ban reflects sound science or excessive caution will continue to smoulder. What is clear is that the ban is a two-edged sword. Double-edged
environment, and many naturally occurring substances could be considered hazardous under strict definitions. For example, if catechol in coffee is indeed genotoxic, then a widely consumed beverage could be just as problematic as manufactured smoke flavourings.
The situation in Great Britain may diverge from the EU’s path. The UK’s Food Standards Agency is conducting its own review of the same flavourings, and the Committee on Toxicology (COT) has yet to issue its conclusions. It is possible that the UK will interpret the data differently and retain smoke flavourings, setting the stage for regulatory divergence between the EU and GB. The latest news is that the FSA’s Committee on Mutagenicity (COM) has reported that the initial assessments on smoke flavourings have been completed and five of the eight smoke flavourings will advance to the next stage of long-term toxicity evaluations. It has been proposed that both the COM and COT will review and sign off the evaluation documents.
This conclusion led to a pivotal decision. On April 24, 2024, EU member states voted to ban all smoke
The ban also highlights the ongoing debate between the precautionary principle and a more pragmatic, science-based approach to food safety. While EFSA acted out of caution, critics argue that risk should be weighed in context. Humans are constantly exposed to toxins from both food and the
By July 2029, smoke flavourings will disappear entirely from the EU market. This decision underscores the growing influence of health risk assessments in shaping food regulation. However, it also raises deeper questions about consistency, proportionality and how society balances risk against practicality.
30 years ago 15 years ago 2024
While it is a massive challenge for producers of smoke flavourings, it represents a huge opportunity for Besmoke’s ‘low and slow’ approach and the patented PureTech™ technology that underpins our natural, authentic smoke ingredients.
Manufacturers will need an alternative to the smoke flavourings that are now to be banned and we are ideally positioned to provide it.
“What is clear is that the ban is a two-edged sword. While it is a massive challenge for producers of smoke flavourings, it represents a huge opportunity for Besmoke’s ‘low and slow’ approach and the patented PureTech™ technology.”
Even before the ban was announced, we were regularly receiving enquiries about how we could help. This trend has only intensified. As a result, Besmoke is going through a massive growth phase. Our sales force is inundated with demand and our production colleagues are working flat out with a huge amount of development going on. For Besmoke, the way forward is to continue doing exactly what we have done for more than 20 years: explore and leverage the chemistry of smoke, combine the science with creativity and produce beautiful natural flavours such as hickory, beech, apple and so many others that are not only safe and market-ready but delicious too.
“Manufacturers will need an alternative to the smoke flavourings that are now to be banned and we are ideally positioned to provide it.”
Our new on-site innovation centre at Arundel, the Smokeademy, is already proving a big hit with customers and distributors. Opened in early 2025, the facility is designed as a centre of excellence where our flavour experts can meet visitors face to face to discuss, explore and test ideas for the market.
As well as dedicated space for cooking sessions and laboratory work on flame-to-fork ingredients, there is always scope for conversation and downtime at in-house bar The Smoking Monkey.
Among the most recent visitors to come down to Sussex and check out the Smokeademy are five members of the product development team from key customer English Provender Company (EPC).
Based in Thatcham, Berkshire, and part of The Billington Group since 1998, EPC is a leading supplier of exceptional products to the food and retail industry.
Its range of more than 600 ambient and chilled lines includes sauces, glazes, condiments, marinades, salad dressings, chutneys, mayonnaises and pastes.
With a company goal of ‘adding life and soul to your food’, EPC works with retailers, QSR operators and manufacturers of a wide range of consumer-facing products.
Melissa Penny, EPC’s Head of Product Development, and Simon Whitby, Senior Development Chef, were among the team members who enjoyed an immersive session into the world of Besmoke on their visit to the Smokeademy. We sincerely thank them for sharing their impressions here.
“Besmoke had presented to us before, and we hold them in high regard, but we wanted to visit and experience the new factory facilities and meeting space for ourselves,” says Simon. “We see a multitude of suppliers and we already knew that Besmoke presentations always resonate with relevance and inspiration. They set the bar with their knowledge of smoke and expertise, and when you have a presentation from founder and CEO Huw Griffiths you can quickly appreciate his vision of growth and investment. It was really good to free up the time to visit and we came away with a lot more understanding about smoke and how Besmoke creates and manufactures its flavour ingredients. The visit really brought it all to life.”
Simon and Melissa met various members of the Besmoke team at the Smokeademy, saw and discussed the workings of our smoke chambers, had a guided tour from Operations Manager Kris Fleming and sampled Middle Eastern platters prepared by our Development Chef Dan Catford.
“It was brilliant to see around the new facilities and tap into how Besmoke produces its smoked ingredients,” says Simon. “The presentations illustrated a classical way of doing things but with a modern twist. It was all very well controlled, stripped back for our understanding and giving us a complete view of the process of using natural smoke. Dan’s platters were a feast. And The Smoking Monkey pub is a great addition, reinforcing the vibe, the feel and the culture of Besmoke.”
One of the main takeaways for Simon and Melissa was looking at the science behind slow cooking on open fire while comparing different types of wood chips.
“The Smoking Monkey pub is a great addition, reinforcing the vibe, the feel and the culture of Besmoke.”
“The natural, authentic approach to smoke flavour is a world away from ultra processed foods or artificial flavourings,” says Melissa. “It was really refreshing to discuss the composition of the wood, compare oak against hickory for example, and discuss it all from a flavour point of view. At a time when the provenance, locality and seasonality of ingredients is becoming ever more important for consumers, it is really helpful to have greater insight into natural smoke, rather than relying on artificial flavourings. The visit has definitely informed how we might go about adding a smoky flavour to future products.”
Melissa adds: “Besmoke is a visionary supplier to work with. They have a sense of direction that helps them stand out from the rest. To see that from a supplier is really exciting.”
“Besmoke is a visionary supplier to work with. They have a sense of direction that helps them stand out from the rest. To see that from a supplier is really exciting.”
A top research chef gives his take on the emotion of smoke
Translating global food trends into products and recipes is a key focus for Pat Clifford, Principal Research Chef for FMCG at PepsiCo. Pat kindly accepted our invite to share his thoughts on flavour creativity, natural smoke innovation, how he develops and scales products for the market and why the EU’s ban on smoke flavourings represents a huge opportunity. We started by discussing how his love of barbecue and smoke flavour has been informed by exposure to international cuisine.
“I have always been an advocate of cooking over open fire,” says the graduate in BSc Food Science and Technology from the University of Worcester. “The aroma and character of barbecue is intoxicating. It just draws you in. I went travelling when I was younger, and in Asia and Australia my eyes were opened to different styles of cooking and food preparation. In London at that time, you could easily find amazing and inspiring Italian, French and British cuisine but I wasn’t seeing a massive amount of Asian influence. Travelling and sampling different recipes and approaches was a real eye-opener and the prompt for me to want to become a development chef.”
Back in the UK, an opportunity came up thanks to an ad in industry magazine The Caterer. Pat applied and got the job.
“My first role as a development chef involved chilled convenience foods for the UK retail market,” he says.
“We had ready meals in 10 to 12 cuisines so I had a lot
of exposure to different ingredients.”
It was while working at the UK headquarters of global flavours and fragrances manufacturer Givaudan that Pat decided to go to university. He admits it was tough balancing work, study and family life but helpfully he was able to link his dissertation directly to his work at the company.
“I wanted to get more into the science mindset,” he says of that time. “It’s as if you have two different languages, science on one hand and food creativity on the other, that are actually saying the same things. Going further with science-led roles introduced me to many more ingredients and different brands. I’ve now been in development longer than I ever was in kitchens but I’m still classed as a chef.”
“It’s as if you have two different languages, science on one hand and food creativity on the other, that are actually saying the same things.”
Pat has been in his current R&D post at PepsiCo since 2016. UK-based, he has a multifaceted role supporting the New York headquartered multinational food, snack and beverage company. Formed in 1965, it has expanded from its namesake product Pepsi to a hugely diversified range of foods and beverages including well known snacks such as Doritos, Quakers and Walkers.
“High temperature smoking was only ever developed for the needs of industry, when what you want as a consumer are authentic flavours that are good for you.”
“I have many research responsibilities involved with translating global brands and food trends into specific recipes and products,” says Pat. “The role includes scaling across brands. I spend a lot of time going to food festivals and meeting chefs, gathering insight on consumer preferences by testing flavour experiences. By combining different ingredients and searching for authenticity blended with surprise you can elevate the dining moment. It’s an approach that applies very well to smoke and grill flavours and the ‘emotion of natural smoke’ as championed by Besmoke.”
As well as Givaudan, Pat’s prior career experience includes a senior development chef role working on innovation at supermarket giant Tesco.
Asked what flavour leadership means to him, he says: “You have to provide flavours that consumers will love. That means spending time talking to and understanding what people are saying. You talk to the general public and test ideas with thousands of consumers. You want to be ahead of the trends while understanding different parts of the market. A restaurant industry trend might not touch supermarkets for some years, until it has reached ubiquity. The challenge for the research chef is that it is not enough to simply understand, say, the trend in healthy eating or sustainability. You have to understand in detail what the consumer is saying before you can go ahead and launch. You ask what you can glean from feedback that shows people wanting very nuanced savoury, umami flavour while demanding salt reduction. What globally recognised ingredients, such as plants and plant protein, can we use to achieve that balance?
Authenticity is a really interesting topic for debate. You are looking to find the happy medium, the common ground between what the consumer wants and the nuance, character and creativity the chef can introduce through ingredients and taste components. Whether it’s teriyaki and masala chicken or something else completely, from the chef point of view, you want to create the best version you can of an authentic recipe. It has got to be taken as authentic by the consumer. A lot of chefs are looking at how the British do Indian food, focused on an ingredient palate suitable to western culture. It may be very far removed from the original but the ingredients, techniques, seasonality, locality and cultural aspects can elevate the experience and put it on a par with the best cooking from France, Spain and Italy. You always ask: What ingredients are there in the country? What cultural influences are here? From there you build the taste components, balancing sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami. In my view, Asian
chefs, and in particular the Japanese, are still the kings of flavour because they tend to find the optimal taste balance, combining savouriness with salt reduction. But since food is so often the common denominator in our conversations and human experience, it’s only natural that we share ideas, influence each other and see different regions developing new flavour ideas and recipes all the time.”
On the EU’s phased ban on smoke flavourings, due to begin taking effect in 2026, Pat says: “I believe it is a great leap forward and you have to ask why it has taken so long for the legislation to come into force. Manufacturers and suppliers will have to adapt to this new way of working and agree how they can accentuate the flavour of smoke and grill in a different way. This is where we are going to see real innovation. Smoke is delicate, not charred. Traditional smoking is low and slow. It has involved trial and error over centuries. High temperature smoking was only ever developed for the needs of industry, when what you want as a consumer are authentic flavours that are good for you. That’s what we aim for at PepsiCo and of course it is what Besmoke offers based on its technology, creativity and years of experience. Besmoke has been able to create a healthy, affordable solution that enhances taste. It’s so beneficial and it’s absolutely right to demonstrate just how unique
“The
beautiful thing about smoke and grill is the flavour but it’s very difficult to replicate because of the complexity. Besmoke have done that really well.”
Besmoke products are. I believe there is still a lack of understanding about what smoke flavour brings to recipes and cuisine. There is still so much to learn. If you are smoking ingredients to go into seasonings, for example, you need lots of experimenting to find the right level. You want a delicate booster. A miniscule amount, a tiny level can accentuate the flavour so much and make all the difference. The beautiful thing about smoke and grill is the flavour but it’s very difficult to replicate because of the complexity. Besmoke have done that really well. They have a great sense of how umami and a sense of salt can combine to enhance and brighten flavour. They understand how different ingredients can work in tandem to make taste and flavour brighter and more accentuated. That is really exciting for me as a chef.“
migration:
are exploring the
approach to Indian food, where traditional recipes are adapted with milder flavours and familiar ingredients to appeal to Western tastes, enhancing accessibility.
Flavour inspiration: I spend a lot of time going to food festivals and meeting chefs, gathering insight on consumer preferences by testing flavour experiences.
Conventional or traditional smoked ingredients versus smoke flavourings that are soon to be removed from the EU market
Amid a new EU inquiry into the safety of conventionally smoked food, Dr. Elena Cristea, Science & Innovation Manager, and Peter Dingelhoff, Global Technical Sales Director, highlight the differences between conventional smoked ingredients produced by incomplete combustion at relatively low temperatures and flavourings that stem from high-temperature pyrolysis.
In the past few months there has been a new inquiry begun by EFSA, the European Food Safety Authority, into conventionally smoked meat, fish, dairy and spices. The intention is to explore and rule out any contamination by carcinogenic polycyclic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in traditional smoking methods. In addition to relevant PAHs, already regulated and monitored for years, other targeted contaminants include catechol, benzofuran, furan-2(5H)-one, nitrosamines, styrene, biphenyl and others.
As with the history and focus of the landmark EU ban on smoke flavourings, there is particular concentration in the new inquiry on furan-2(5H)-one and catechol as suspected genotoxic compounds.
The inquiry included an open call for data issued in April 2025 that ran until the end of August. Its work is ongoing, with EFSA expected to publish a scientific opinion in due course.
EFSA’s latest investigation was prompted by assessments done ahead of the flavourings ban which prompted its risk managers to look into the safety of conventional smoking as an alternative.
In the UK, smoke flavourings are still being evaluated by the toxicology committee of the Food Standards Agency.
While we await the outcome of that, the latest EFSA inquiry and any new regulatory requirements that may be floated or introduced, we are absolutely confident of the many clear differentiators that show our products safely maintain PAHs well under regulatory maxima. For continued reassurance, we have begun a new testing and monitoring programme for the aforementioned emerging contaminants, led by Petra Tsitlakidou, our Technical & Regulatory Director, that is ongoing too.
Elena, an experienced food scientist, researcher and inventor, says the whole history of Besmoke, particularly the science behind our patented PureTech™ filtration
system, is all about producing the safest and most authentic smoke and grill flavour ingredients.
“Traditional smoked ingredients should not be treated under the same regulatory framework as the smoke flavourings being banned,” says Elena. “Given their production differences, it would be misleading to have them brought together under the same regulatory standard. What we produce at Besmoke is based on indirect smoking or smouldering in the presence of oxygen and at relatively low temperatures. At these levels, and combined with the dry conditions in the chamber, the smoke remains largely in the gaseous phase. The process is dominated by absorption and adsorption mechanisms, which allow the smoke compounds to bind safely to the food surface without forming and accumulating harmful PAHs. This also enables us to develop the distinctive smoke profiles and top notes that differentiate our ingredients in the market. At low burning temperatures and with sufficient oxygen, you achieve a more flavoursome, typical, less acrid and less harsh smoke, far lower in thermally produced toxins. Furthermore, smoke flavourings undergo separate processing such as fractionalisation, extraction with various chemicals, absorption or vacuum distillation. As well as the toxicological implications, you lose the essential intricacy of true flavour when processing becomes this complex.”
Elena is preparing a white paper discussing in detail the comparative science showing 15 key differentiators between conventional smoke created during incomplete combustion at relatively low temperatures and flavourings produced at higher temperatures. She says it will serve as an education piece for consumers and industry players alike and include a dedicated focus on how traditional smoked ingredients can meet the needs of industry and all previous and potentially new imposed food safety requirements.
Elena says: “The smoke flavourings industry has coopted the term ‘smoke’ under the banner of food safety, only to now find itself subject to the same reductive scrutiny it once legitimised. But to treat industrial extracts and traditional smoking as equivalent risks erasing a millennia-old method of food preservation, one that deserves protection, not collateral damage.”
Elena’s comments are echoed by Peter, another
Cristea: Besmoke’s Science and Innovation Manager
Peter Dingelhoff: Global Technical Sales Director, Besmoke’s European smoke and grill expert
prominent smoke industry professional with insight and experience regarding EFSA evaluations.
“Smoke flavourings were originally a by-product from making charcoal,” he says. “The higher the temperature, the higher the carbon and the more off-flavour it becomes. If charcoal has poor quality, it affects the food flavour. The argument underlying ‘reclaim the flavour of smoke’ is that the ‘industry’, the flavourings companies have told us all for 50 years or more how smoke should taste. In fact, we know it is completely different when you have a more natural process involved, one which enables you to savour the difference, between, say, oak, apple and beech. Besmoke is essentially opening people up to natural, ‘old fashioned’ flavours that we just forgot about over the years.
“Supermarkets are increasingly looking at how to differentiate consumer products, often copying each other, and people are coming back to an old world of flavours.”
Supermarkets are increasingly looking at how to differentiate consumer products, often copying each other, and people are coming back to an old world of flavours. I believe that with the flavours we are producing at Besmoke, we can add nostalgia to these products. For the consumer, it’s about smoke profiles as they should be and a feeling of safety, familiarisation and authenticity. We will continue our now 20-year track record of innovation. We have more experience with natural ingredients than flavourings companies looking suddenly to adapt to the ban. I believe we have the best products and the most authentic flavours, still number one. We are clearly not covered by the flavourings ban and I don’t think the new inquiry into conventionally produced smoke is a risk to us. It’s a minor headache to take the time to offer up dossiers of data to the inquiry but we are completely confident in what we are saying. We offer authentic flavour profiles – at tiny levels but with a big taste impact – in ingredients that are safe, healthy, free of PAHs and not produced at high temperatures.”
“Besmoke is essentially opening people up to natural, ‘old fashioned’ flavours that we just forgot about over the years.”
Singapore-based smoke flavour expert Jingang Shi, Founder and CEO of EPC Natural Products Ltd, kindly offered to share his expert insight on the emotion of smoke and the psychology behind recognising delicious flavour. We sincerely thank Jingang for taking the time to answer our questions.
Could you expand a little on how early humans might have first made the connection between smoky flavour and food safety, so resulting in the love of smoke flavour we still have today?
JS: Once early humans began to control and cook with fire, it transformed their bodies and minds, shrinking their digestive tracts, enlarging their brains and reshaping social life. Meat exposed to flames or smoke was easier to chew, lasted longer and made humans sick less often. Over generations, the scent and taste of smoke became a reliable cue for ‘safe, nourishing food’. Today, that ancient survival link still drives our instinctive love of smoky flavours. They don’t just taste good, they feel like comfort, safety and home.
To what extent does the connection between smoke flavour and safety influence people who grow up in cultures without much smoked food?
JS: Even in cultures without smoked-food traditions, people are exposed to cooked and baked foods. The aromas signal safety and digestibility. Evolution has hardwired us to favour such cues, linking them to nutrition and survival. Daily experience further reinforces these
associations. Repeated exposure to cooked flavours allows the brain to learn and maintain preferences. Together, evolutionary predisposition and everyday learning shape automatic preferences for smoky flavours. Are there particular woods or smoking methods that you feel are particularly tied to the idea of pleasurable or comforting flavour? Is there a cooking temperature threshold where smoke flavour loses its appeal, and how does the brain react differently in that case?
complexity with subtle safety, creating a deeply pleasurable sensory experience.
Given our focus on the Middle East in this edition, do you see any patterns in why certain regions embraced smoking more than others? Was it more about the need for preservation as opposed to flavour innovation for enjoyment of taste and aroma?
“When smoked at the right, moderate temperatures, these woods impart rich, complex aromas and flavours.”
JS: Specific hardwoods such as oak, apple, cherry and hickory release aromatic phenols, aldehydes and ketones that the brain interprets as warm and satisfying. Different regions favour particular woods based on local availability and culinary traditions, from fruitwoods in Chinese Beijing Duck to beech or oak in German sausages, alder in Nordic smoked salmon, and hickory in American barbecue. When smoked at the right, moderate temperatures, these woods impart rich, complex aromas and flavours. However, if cooking temperatures become too high, the smoke can turn harsh or charred, producing bitter notes that the brain registers as potential danger signals, diminishing enjoyment. In essence, optimal smoke flavour balances
JS: Regions such as Arabia, Turkey and North Africa likely embraced smoking early because it served a dual role: first as a practical preservation method in hot, arid climates without reliable refrigeration; and second as a way to elevate taste and aroma. Smoking not only slowed spoilage by drying and coating food with antimicrobial compounds, it also often coincided with roasting or grilling. Such processes produce the deeply savoury, roasted aromas our brains are wired to enjoy. Over centuries, this necessity fused with cultural identity, as smoky notes became tied to hospitality, festive dishes and the comforting imagery of hearth and fire. What began as a survival strategy evolved into a flavour tradition, with smoke now carrying layers of nostalgia, warmth and emotional connection across these regions. How do modern cooking trends such as the use of smoked ingredients affect the emotional and cultural authenticity of smoky foods?
JS: Modern innovations in smoky flavours offer both reliability and emotional resonance. On the practical side, smoked ingredients provide a controlled,
Flavour expert Jingang Shi:
Founder and CEO of EPC Natural Products Limited
consistent smoky taste, which allows precise flavour adjustments in small doses. These tools reduce the risk of over-smoking or unpleasant off-flavours, ensuring that consumers avoid a harsh smoky dish and instead build trust through consistent quality. At the same time, these methods preserve the emotional and cultural essence of smoked foods. Even without the tactile ritual or visual spectacle of traditional smoking, the familiar aroma and taste still evoke comfort, warmth and a
“What began
as
a survival
strategy
evolved into a flavour tradition, with smoke now carrying layers of nostalgia, warmth and emotional connection across these regions.”
sense of craftsmanship. For many consumers, these cues trigger the same nostalgic and sensory responses associated with traditional smoked dishes. In essence, modern trends make smoky flavours more reliable while retaining the evocative power of tradition. Chefs and home cooks can deliver culturally familiar, satisfying experiences with confidence, strengthening both consumer enjoyment and trust.
You have used the term ‘visible craftsmanship’ in your work. Can you say a little more about this and what it means for helping to ensure food is smoked with skill?
JS: ‘Visible craftsmanship’ refers to the clear, tangible sign that food has been prepared with skill and care. That’s something our minds naturally value. In the case of smoking, this could mean the careful control of low temperatures, the thoughtful selection of wood or the precise management of humidity. We don’t simply enjoy the resulting flavour, we also take pleasure in recognising the effort and mastery behind it. This ties to a cognitive tendency to prize foods that visibly display human skill, and to the way our food memories are often stored as vivid scenes. Consider, for example, smoke curling in the air, a craftsman tending the fire, the glow of embers. These can all make the experience as much visual as it is sensory.
Do you think our appreciation for smoke flavour is increasing in the age of fast food and automation?
JS: Yes, in a world where many foods are produced quickly and with minimal visible human involvement, smoke signals the opposite: time, care and traditional craft. It stands out as a powerful signal of quality. It connects us to our ancient roots of cooking over fire, a practice humans have valued for hundreds of thousands of years. This contrast makes smoke a shorthand for ‘authentic’, ‘handmade’ and ‘deep flavour’. These are qualities people crave when so much of their food feels engineered for speed rather than characteristic taste.
How do you see the tie-up between traditional smoking techniques, smoke flavour and high-end gastronomy evolving in the next decade?
JS: Over the next decade, traditional smoking techniques and the flavour of smoke are poised to play an even more prominent role in high-end gastronomy, guided by sensory experience and nostalgic resonance. Diners increasingly seek food as a multi-sensory encounter: the aroma of wood smoke, the subtle bitterness of char, and the tactile contrast of smoked textures create a direct, embodied awareness often absent in modern, engineered foods. Each bite becomes a conscious engagement with time, craft and materiality, allowing diners to sense the patience and skill behind the process. Nostalgia deepens this connection. Traditional smoking, whether slow-cooked hickory ribs, tea-smoked duck or oak-aged cheese, evokes stories of hearth, fire and ancestral culinary wisdom, contrasting with today’s fast, mechanised food culture. In this context, chefs can leverage smoke as a medium for storytelling, crafting dishes that are both rooted in heritage and elevated through technique. In essence, smoke flavour will increasingly serve as a bridge between past and present, inviting diners to engage not only with taste but with the narrative of care, craft and memory. There is a sophisticated dialogue between food, culture and consciousness.
“Over generations, the scent and taste of smoke became a reliable cue for ‘safe, nourishing food’. Today, that ancient survival link still drives our instinctive love of smoky flavours.”
“There’s a growing and positive interest in our mission to reclaim the true flavour of smoke and it’s starting to gather pace around the world. Smoke isn’t a dirty word, smoke is delicious - let’s reclaim it together.”
Among the industry events we put on our calendar to attend this year was Food Matters Live in Rotterdam in September. It was an ideal opportunity to highlight our campaign to reclaim the flavour of smoke among fellow food industry professionals.
Our speakers were Huw Griffiths, founder and CEO, and Becky Shaw, New Product Development Controller. We also attended the IFFA trade fair in Frankfurt, the leading get-together for the meat and protein industry which takes place every three years.
Events coming up include Gulfood Manufacturing in Dubai in November 2025 and food ingredients show FI Europe in Paris in December. Next year we’ll be back once again at FlavourTalk, an annual ‘speed dating’type conference and expo at London’s Millennium Gloucester Hotel in March 2026.
Our new innovation centre in Arundel has this year welcomed visitors from food sector names such as Cranswick, Pilgrim’s, Solina and the English Provender Company.
Our Development Chef Dan Catford has used these visits to demonstrate a range of dishes infused with smoke and grill including meat focused applications and smoky seasonings.
On the Middle Eastern theme, he has prepared and served slow-cooked Lebanese spice lamb ribs with a chilli sauce and hummus herb salad. One of Dan’s Middle Eastern favourites is arboud, or shepherd’s bread, which is like a version of focaccia with a lovely smoked top note.
CONTACTS & INFORMATION
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