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Contents July J l 201 2019 019 5 5V 53

10 Filling, hearty, healthy—and beautiful cuisine

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Feature: Japanese summer treats

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Restaurant: Raku takes udon up a notch

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Ingredient: The matcha and green tea trends

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Tokyo Event: Koenji Awa-odori Dance Festival

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Travel: =PZP[ [OL THNUPÄJLU[ ;Z\UVZOPTH )YPKNL

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Interview: Dance With Me PZ H KPќLYLU[ RPUK VM ÄST

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Only in Japan: Kakigori, a classic cold treat

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Interview: :HP[VO ;HR\TP VU JYLH[P]L MYLLKVT

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:[HɈ WPJR! Konjiki opens up a second location

EDITOR’S NOTE Making summer a little sweeter /V^ KV `V\ SPRL [V JLSLIYH[L Z\TTLY& >P[O H Z^LL[ [YLH[& >P[O Z\TTLY [YH]LSZ& )` JH[JOPUN H NVVK ÄST& 6Y HSS VM [OL HIV]L& ;OPZ TVU[O V\Y MLH[\YL HY[PJSL NP]LZ `V\ H Y\U KV^U VM ZVTL VM [OL JVVSLZ[ 1HWHULZL Z^LL[ [YLH[Z MYVT [OL [YHKP[PVUHS [V [OL [YLUK` >L HSZV ZH[ KV^U ^P[O ZVTL VM [OL ]PZP[PUN Z[HYZ MYVT [OPZ `LHY»Z ;VYVU[V 1HWHULZL -PST -LZ[P]HS [V SLHYU TVYL HIV\[ [OLPY ÄSTZ /V^L]LY `V\ JOVVZL [V ZWLUK `V\Y KH`Z ^L OVWL `V\ OH]L H OHWW` Z\TTLY

Join the conversation on Facebook and Twitter MHJLIVVR JVT ILU[VIV_THN

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Editors Nina Hoeschele, Yumi Nishio ,KP[VYPHS JVVYKPUH[VYZ Nina Hoeschele, Yumi Nishio Writers (YPLS 3P[[LSQVOU 2LP 5PZOPKH 4 *YV^ZVU 5PJOVSHZ 1VULZ Nina Lee, Sarah Dickson Designers *OPLRV >H[HUHIL 4PKVYP @HTHTV[V Advertisement & marketing 2Ha\ 4HY\`HTH Publisher 2Ha\ 4HY\`HTH

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Fe ature

From the dellicate to the decadent, me refreshing sweets to here are som ays. keep you cool on hot summer da By Nicholas Jones

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Hot Spot | Raku

By Nina Lee

ALL THE RUCKUS ABOUT RAKU WITH A SIMPLE MENU, A BROTH WITH NUANCE AND DEPTH, AND MINIMALIST DÉCOR, RAKU WILL TRANSPORT YOU TO A STREET-SIDE NOODLE SHOP IN JAPAN.

YASAI KAKIAGE A double-layered dish made with homemade broth, wakame, spinach, scallions HUK ÅH[ ZVM[ JOL^` \KVU noodles, alongside onion, burdock, carrot and green pepper tempura stacks.

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Hungry for more? Let’s dig in!

Busy and bustling on a Tuesday afternoon, Raku is filled with the post-lunch, pre-dinner crowd, but the attentive staff makes you feel like you’re the only guest in the restaurant. An import from New York City, Raku might be a newcomer to Toronto, but it is no stranger to the city—the partners and management all hail from southern Ontario. And they are eager to become a fixture in Toronto’s culinary scene. Opened in March 2019, Raku fills a void in Toronto’s Japanese cuisine scene. In a long, thin lot on a vibrant, eclectic stretch of Toronto’s West Queen West neighbourhood, Raku offers boutiquestyle dining. Udon is not traditionally known to be a fancy food. It’s filling, hearty and healthy. Raku takes it up a notch by making it aesthetically beautiful as well. The restaurant uses locally sourced meats and vegetables, and imports fresh crab, seasonings ngs and noodles direct from Japan. Its broth is made in-house from dried kelp, p, boiled bonito and mackerel fish boness that result in a soup that’s refreshing, clear, ar, lightly sweet and full of flavour. Every morning g while the short-ribs simmer and d braise se e for hours, the kitchen staff gathers hers in n th the e basement workspace to prepare e and nd d pi p pinch nch hundreds of gyoza, one of Raku’s u’s most mo st popular appetizers. Everything is ma made a de to order, while toppings and garnishes nishes ess are cooked together to enhance their eir flavou flavours. vours. vou ou rs.

Every afternoon and evening, laughter and friendly banter in a Japanese-English patois mingle with the hearty aroma of seared Canadian prime beef and the umami perfume of a simmering fish-based broth wafting from the kitchen. This is a place where the staff loves food, and it shows. Raku is Chef Norihiro Ishizuka’s newest adventure after building the Michelinst a rre d o m a k a s e re s t a u r a n t Ku r a . Ishizuka has brought the same attention to detail and care to Raku. Sourcing local and high-end ingredients may result in a higher price point, but the results are exceptional. The Kitsune Udon is simple, with the purity of the ingredients taking centre stage. The Ja Ja cold noodle blends spicy miso pork with fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, and will join an expanded cold noodle menu, perfect to refresh and recharge during the summer. W ith only 38 seats, Raku may be small, but it packs a punch.

Raku 456 Queen St. W., Toronto 416-546-9325 | rakunyc.com @rakunyc | Waitlist available via Yelp and in person OPEN: ;\LZ¶;O\YZ WT¶ WT -YP¶:H[ WT¶ WT :\U WT¶ WT 4VU JSVZLK

▲ YAKI NASU Savoury, succulent and silky fried eggplant, filled with spicy miso pork and topped with a quail egg. ◀ KATSU DON A bowl of rice filled to the brim with deepfried pork cutlet, an egg omelette and aonori on a bed of sautéed onions, served with a bowl of soup and umeboshi pickles.

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By Kei Nishida

Ingredient | Matcha

A H C T A M THE A E T N E E AND GR N A P A J N I TRENDS Kei Nishida Kei Nishida is a Japanese green tea enthusiast, a writer, and the founder and CEO of Japanese Green Tea Company. His passion for introducing America to the tea of his homeland was the catalyst for creating the only company that brings high-quality tea from Arahataen Green Tea Farms to the rest of the world. www.JapaneseGreenTea.org

nce upon a time in Japan, and for centuries, matcha and green tea were considered novel confections which were to be consumed only by the emperor and people of high status. If you have ever participated in or viewed a traditional tea ceremony in Japan, you will notice how many formal traditions surround the tea-drinking experience. Tea is deeply attached to the history and tradition of Japanese culture.

O

Fast forward to today on the streets of Harajuku, Tokyo: teenage boys and girls are enjoying soft-serve matcha ice cream covered with chocolate powder and strawberry topping. Japan’s culture around “tea” is changing faster than at any other time in its history, with enormous influence from the global demand that comes from the recent “matcha boom.” Whatever it is about Japan that is drawing you in, I invite you to join me in this threepart series revealing some of the Japanese trends, experiences and products bringing the simple pleasures of Japanese green tea and matcha to the beauty of modern Japan. Let me first take you back in time to where it all started. 12

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The soft-serve that changed the history of matcha

an insult to use matcha for such things, as matcha has been historically prized.

The time is 1950, summer. The tea producer Gyokurinen (玉林園 ) in Wakayama, Japan, was facing a difficult time. With foreign drinks such as Coca-Cola becoming more popular in Japan, people were not drinking as much tea as they used to. Sales were declining for these tea companies, especially in the summer season.

Japan’s tea culture has shifted even faster since then and created unique twists and turns to the old tradition. Now when you walk on the streets of Uji, you find a variety of sweets and food made with tea. One of the shops you’ll find is New York’s famous Shake Shack serving matcha shakes (more about that in the next article!). This is the 21 stcentury way for people to consume tea. The trend is constantly evolving now.

Around this time, soft-serve ice cream was first introduced in Japan. The owner of Gyokurinen decided to mix some of the company’s leftover matcha with soft-serve to get some cash, since tea was not selling well. This is recorded as the first matcha soft-serve in the world. Throughout Japan, tea farms were facing the same problem. People were not drinking tea. There is a specific word in Japanese to describe this phenomenon; it is called Chabanare (茶離れ), literally meaning “leaving tea.” Following in Gyokurinen’s path, other tea farms and companies around Japan began selling soft-serve and other sweet dishes with tea in them. Back then, many of the tea farms frowned on the idea, especially in places where matcha has a long history and tradition, such as Uji, Kyoto. Many farms claimed it was

The 21st-century tea trend in Japan Join me next month as I look at some of the trendy matcha experiences opening in Japan. In my next article, I will share how global companies such as Häagen-Dazs, Shake Shack and Mister Donut are introducing the tea world to stunning matcha experiences. Then, in the last article of this series, I will share the newest trending tea products in Japan, including a product from Godiva. Stay tuned!


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Event | Tokyo summer festival

By Nina Hoeschele

CELEBRATING SUMMER WITH Koenji’s Awa-odori Festival

(c) Tokyo Koenji Awaodori

For two days out of the summer, one of Tokyo’s coolest neighbourhoods will be transformed by this high-energy tradition. Summer in Japan is a time of festivals, with exciting celebrations happening all over the country—many of which have long histories. Building on a traditional festival that has been held in Tokushima Prefecture since the 1500s, the Koenji Awa-odori Dance Festival has been livening up Tokyo’s Koenji district since 1957, where it is building a cheerful legacy of its own.

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Known as a retro hub within the city, Koenji is a charming area of Tokyo located just a short ride from Shinjuku. And for two days this August, this creative, vintage-feeling neighbourhood will come alive with the sounds of flutes, shamisen, chimes and taiko drums as the Awa-odori Festival takes to the streets. This celebration sees a parade of over 10,000 participants come together to showcase Japanese folk dances throughout Koenji’s streets, transforming the district with its chanting, music and infectious energy. Dressed in woven straw hats and brightly coloured kimonos, the dancers divide themselves across eight areas in the district, ensuring

that you can find a thrilling spectacle no matter where you turn. Among the best-loved traditions of Awa-odori, both in Koenji and Tokushima, are the “Men’s Dance” and “Women’s Dance”—two fundamentally simple dances that anyone can try. Yet part of the beauty of the festival is seeing how dance teams interpret and amplify these simple movements, building on them to create a vast variety of creative routines. As spectators wander the festival, they will find that the streets of Koenji are lined with stalls offering delicious foods and games to try. The festival is a perfect opportunity to sample some local cuisine while immersing yourself in a time-honoured spectacle. This year’s Koenji Awa-odori will be held on August 24 and 25. If you find yourself in Japan this summer, don’t miss your chance to take part in this spirited tradition! More info: w w w. k o e n j i - a w a o d o r i . c o m / language/eng.html


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By Ariel Litteljohn

Travel | Tsunoshima

VISIT THE MAGNIFICENT TSUNOSHIMA BRIDGE 蒼い海と白い浜、 大橋からの絶景を楽しむ。

Travel south to Yamaguchi Prefecture to visit the beaches and take the drive of a lifetime!

TSUNOSHIMA 【角島】

Tsunoshima is 90 minutes by car from Yamaguchi, on the southwest side of Honshu. While it is by far easiest to travel to the Shimonoseki area by private vehicle, it is also possible to travel by bus, plane or train.


Travel | Tsunoshima

ocated off the northwest coast of Yamaguchi Prefecture, jutting out of the turquoise-blue waters of the Sea of Japan, sits the picturesque Tsunoshima Island. Tsunoshima, a part of the city of Shimonoseki, is itself well worth a visit—with a population of about 900, an area of 4.1 square kilometres and a picture-perfect coastline of 17.1 kilometres. On the northwest corner of the island is the famous Western-style Tsunoshima Lighthouse, built in 1876, which has come to be the symbol of the island. Campers and sport fishers flock to Tsunoshima as a destination; however, neither camping nor fishing are the most popular reasons why tourists, Japanese and foreign alike, make

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the journey to this subtropical area of the country. Most come to see the magnificent Tsunoshima Bridge, which connects the mainland with Tsunoshima Island, and is the second-longest bridge in all of Japan (the longest being the Kori Ohashi in Okinawa). At 1,780 metres long, the toll-free bridge, often described as the most beautiful in all of Japan, is an exhilarating combination of straight lengths combined with big sloping curves—a driver’s dream! It takes approximately three minutes to drive the length of the bridge, and the trip gives you a sensation of flying over the azure sea. Travelling

across the bridge in the daytime, you pass over s t u n n in g g r a d atio ns o f b lues a n d g re e n s . T h e v ie w s a re eq ually s p e c t a c u la r a t n ig h t t im e as the entire b r id g e is lit u p a n d lo o k s like a p icture t a k e n o u t o f a storybook. So breathtaking is the bridge, and the views from it, that since construction was completed in November of 2000, it has many times been the shooting locale for car commercials, TV shows and films. In 2005, Miracle in Four Days was filmed across the entire island. And the popular Japanese TV drama Hero was also shot in this location. Continues on page 20


The island boasts a picture-perfect coastline

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Travel | Tsunoshima

If you are travelling during the daytime, be sure to relax and take some photographs of the bridge from a white sandy beach at one of the nearby parks before heading back to the mainland. One option is to venture nearby to the Shiokaze Cobalt Blue Beach resort, which features soft white sand, crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming and rolling mountains as a backdrop. Close by is Shiokaze-no-Sato, where you can find fresh seafood (locally caught and grilled squid is the specialty) and vegetables as well as souvenirs that you can pick up to bring home with you (or stop to use the public toilets). Or, check out the jaw-dropping views of the bridge from Amagase Park, adjacent to the bridge on the mainland side. If you are in Tsunoshima, you could also consider making a stop at the Motonosumi Inari Shrine, 40 minutes north of the bridge. The shrine is famous for its 123 vermilion tori gates, with views of the Sea of Japan in the background.

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Interview | Dance With Me

By Nina Lee

n ki d t n o e f r fi e l ff m i D

Discussing dreams, dynamics and drama with Shinobu Yaguchi and Ayaka Miyoshi, the director and star of Dance With Me. elebrating its world premiere at the Toronto Japanese Film Festival (TJFF), Dance With Me is a fun, funny frolic of a film. This musical comedy from the director of Wood Job!, Survival Family and Swing Girls stars Ayaka Miyoshi as a musicalSVH[OPUN VŃ?JL KYVUL @\\ @HZOPYV HZ H bumbling scam artist and the venerable Akira Takarada as a fast-talking hypnotist.

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country hunt for the hypnotist to o break the spell. Written and directed by Shinobu hinobu Yaguchi, Dance With Me is an homage to old Hollywo od music a l s w i t h fre sh ch oreogr aphy and delightfully entertaining performances from Miyoshi and company. The film begins with a bang—a ’60s-style go-go dance number—and quickly morphs into a “bat-shit crazy romp” through a world of office-centred song-and-dance routines, epic b-boy battles and chandelierswinging antics. The film employs many classic cinematic tropes—like a thrilling heist with show-stopping, high-stepping mobsters; a frolicking cross-Japan Thelma and Louise-style road trip filled with jaunty characters; and an unforgettable ballad by singer-songwriter chay in her movie debut as a busking wedding saboteur. Eventually, Shizuka heads home and begins questioning her dull life, opting instead to join her musical accomplices in realizing their dreams. Yaguchi and Miyoshi were in attendance at the premiere and had a chance to talk about their experience making the film. Known for his comedic flair, Yaguchi had long dreamed of making a musical

that felt real—where bursting out in song and dance would be as out of place for the characters as it would be in the real world. He’s also made this film one where the characters are a reflection of current cultures in Japan—the big-city OL lifestyle, suburban family life and life as a stranger in the countryside. Musicals are fairly rare in Japanese cinema culture, and Yaguchi found himself navigating new territory. Working closely with choreographers Ebato and Q-Taro and musicians Takuji Nomura and the Gentle Forest Jazz Band, they created the prodigious musical world where Miyoshi plays. Making the film was not an easy journey—there were many complications, and the choreographers often had to change the dance numbers on the fly. But it was all worth the effort: Yaguchi was presented with the TJFF Special

Director’s Award and a standing ovation reception to the film. Miyoshi also loved watching musicals as a child, but her life brought her to film in a more roundabout route—first as a model for Japan’s Seventeen magazine, and later as a member of idol group Sakura Gakuin. B u t n o t h in g re a lly p re p a red her fo r the gruelling ruelling two-month-long schedule of rehearsing for the musical. But the film taught her poise and adaptability, and was a truly gratifying experience—not to mention one that she never thought she would have. A And like Shizuka, Yaguchi and Miyoshi ste stepped out of their comfort zones, took a risk on an unfamiliar idea and made something different, something meth wonderful and something wonderfully ully fun.

Film info Dance With Me Release date: August 16, 2019 Director: Shinobu Yaguchi Starring: Ayaka Miyoshi, Yuu Yashiro, chay, Takahiro Miura, Tsuyoshi Muro and Akira Takarada More info: wwws.warnerbros.co.jp/dancewithme Yaguchi’s other films are available at the Japan Foundation, Toronto Library: jftor. org/library

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G O

Let's

llearn earn

N I H O N G O

easy JJapanese apanese WHAT TO SAY AT JAPANESE COFFEE SHOPS My favourite way to relax in summer is with a cup of coffee (コーヒー). Japanese coffee shops present some interesting opportunities to experience coffee in the Japanese way. They almost always ask you how you’d like your coffee when you order it. Practice these expressions and enjoy your coffee!

Beginner

Intermediate

Advanced

Give me one coffee, please.

Iced coffee, please.

Nothing beats a cold-brew coffee in summer.

コーヒー、1つください。 Koohii hitotsu kudasai.

“∼つ” is used for counting generic things. This counter goes up to 10. Examples: ひとつ、ふたつ、みっつ、よっつ、いつつ、 むっつ、ななつ、やっつ、 ここのつ、 とお. However, “とお” is generally not used for 10 cups of coffee. Instead, you would say “10 杯” (juppai). “杯“ (hai/pai/bai) is the counter for cups.

アイスでお願いします。

夏はやっぱり水出し コーヒーに限るよね。

Aisu de onegaishimasu.

Natsu wa yappari mizudashi-koohii ni kagiru yone.

This is the answer when you are asked: “Do you want that hot or iced?“ The particle “で” can be used to indicate means or method. E.g.: ”ホットでお願いします”means“ hot coffee, please.” “ホット“ is hot coffee in Japanese.

Cold-brew coffee (水出しコーヒー) is starting to catch on in Japan. Noun+に限る means “nothing better than (noun).” E.g.: 夏は冷たいビールに限るよ ね。 ( Natsu wa tsumetai biiru ni kagiru yone means “Nothing better than a cold beer in summer.”)

Compiled by Ariel Surya and Keiko Chhaya. Brought to you by the Toronto Japanese Language School | www.tjls.ca | @tjlsca | info@tjls.ca

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Wagyu Sukiyaki Enjoy this dish with high-quality beef that will melt in your mouth.

Restaurant in Japan

Nikusho Ikuta 151-11 Yamashitacho, Naka Ward, Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture +8145-264-4529 nikusho-ikuta.owst.jp/en OPEN: Daily 11 am–11 pm (*Food last call 10 pm *Drinks last call 10:30 pm)

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Only in Japan | Shaved ice

By M Crowson

Illustration by Chieko Watanabe

KAKIGORI, A CLASSIC FOR THE COMMON FOLK こだわりの氷とシロップの店続出のかき氷。一年中楽しめるスイーツとなるか?

Cool off with a contemporary take on this once-elite but now everyday summer sweet. Every good sweets connoisseur knows that summertime equals frozen treats, and in Japan that means it’s kakigori season. Kakigori, or “shaved ice,” is at least as old as the Tale of Genji, and was once just as highfalutin and hard to get your hands on. Just like Genji, kakigori was custom-made for the courtly class. Servants were sent to the mountains in the hot summer months to lug back giant blocks of pristine ice, which were then handshaved and sweetened for lofty tastebuds.

Luckily, you don’t need servants or an aristocratic title to get your tongue on one of these perfectly chilled delicacies, because nowadays kakigori are widely available across Japan, in all kinds of varieties, for as little as $5. Traditional kakigori is very simple, made with hand-shaved ice and a homemade syrup flavoured with real, in-season fruits and just the right touch of sugar. The seasonal sweetening is often accompanied by a drizzle of condensed

milk, which adds a creamy richness to each icy bite. Some of the newer-style kakigori include full servings of fruit, such as watermelon, strawberry or mandarin orange. But kakigori isn’t limited to fruit flavours; it’s also often paired with matcha, sweet bean paste and colourful mochi bites in a version called shirokuma, or “polar bear” shaved ice. This variety was popularized in the Kagoshima area in the 19th century, when industrialization first made it possible for everyday folks to enjoy kakigori. Nobody knows for sure where the peculiar name comes from, but one common legend is that the owner of a Kagoshima cotton shop decided to start a side hustle selling kakigori topped with condensed milk, and called the dish “polar bear” upon noticing the milk container was decorated with an arctic bear by the same name. Another legend is that a Kagoshima coffee shop started selling a version of kakigori decorated to look like a polar bear when viewed from overhead. These days the shirokuma is often topped with mandarin orange slices, maraschino cherries, raisins and pineapple chunks—a delicious snack that bears no resemblance to its namesake. Adventurous epicureans can try wilder variations on this traditional dessert, like the savoury shochu (a Japanese liquor), potato chip, edamame and peanut kakigori. If your sweet tooth is wandering around Tokyo, you could sample a carrot mascarpone at the Roppongibased Yelo bar, or a mountainous mango confection called the “ex-boyfriend” from the Taiwan-born Mancho Chacha, a dish portioned for two and served all year round. Call it revenge or consolation, but either way, kakigori is a sweet way to celebrate a new season, whether it’s the seasons of Mother Nature or your own personal life.

Give summer the cold shoulder It’s easy to enjoy kakigori in the heat of summer, but here are three handy tips in case you need a bit of help from your friends.

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DO

DO NOT

DO

try a few versions.

get confused.

try this at home.

Because the ice takes on the flavour (and sometimes the texture) of its toppings, each experience offers a new taste adventure.

They may sound the same, but thin-shaved kakigori ice is way more delicate than the chunks of a Western snow cone.

Confident in the kitchen? Try making your own kakigori by following the tutorials on the YouTube show Cooking with Dog.


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Interview | Saitoh Takumi

GAMBLING WITH FREEDOM A thoughtful conversation about creative freedom and the film A Gambler’s Odyssey 2020 with actor Saitoh Takumi.

By Nina Lee

I

n Toronto for the second time in as many years to promote his films at the Toronto Japanese Film Festival, Saitoh Takumi was at ease when discussing his newest film, A Gambler’s Odyssey 2020. The actor had a lot to say about the importance of creativity and artistic freedom. A Gambler’s Odyssey 2020 is a film centred on mahjong gambling in an apocalyptic, postwar Japan. The movie is a remake of a 1980s production originally adapted from Takehiro Irokawa’s novel and Yozo Shimizu’s manga, Hourouki Mahjong. A big fan of the original film, Saitoh acquired the story rights to Hourouki Mahjong about 10 years ago and was involved in the process of remaking the film for modern audiences before he took the role of its lead actor. Adding sci-fi elements like time travel, a dystopian future and artificial intelligence allows A Gambler’s Odyssey 2020 to stand alone among its previous iterations. Saitoh Takumi’s character, Boyatetsu, is a seasoned gambler, conman and skilled mah-jong player in 1945, when he’s

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Discussing the importance of telling your story

magically transported 75 years into the future while playing the hand of a lifetime. But his gambling and conning skills do him little good in this version of the future where mah-jong tables are automated and gambling is illegal, taking away his ability to manipulate the game. Saitoh’s favourite aspect of his character was playing this difficult scenario. Other humorous moments, such as eating a large, steaming bowl of shabu-shabu with his bare hands, stand out as some of his favourite scenes to film. Having grown up playing mah-jong with his family, Saitoh was already familiar with the game and the intense competition between players. He was less familiar with director Kazuya Shiraishi. As Kazuya is known for making crime and gangster films, Saitoh was initially worried about working with the tough-guy director. But to Saitoh’s relief, Kazuya was easy to get along with and a versatile director with many interesting ideas up his sleeves, including his decision to film the entire movie on an iPhone. This surprising choice of medium allowed the cinematographer to get up close and

personal with the actors in their scenes, and gives audiences a first-person view of the action—from sushi plate and mah-jong tile point-of-views at the table, to intimate scenes between the players. The atypical cinematographic choices created some of the most enjoyable moments of this film. With some controversial content in the realm of drug use, police brutality and illegal gambling, the film studio and premiering locations were initially concerned that audiences would not receive the film well. Saitoh spoke passionately about the need for artists to be able to express themselves and tell their stories without fear of control. He stressed the importance for filmmakers to consider different types of subject matter—even when it might be uncomfortable for audiences—and this film demonstrates how living under a more obstructionist regime could hinder freedom. Ultimately, the politicians and film studios relented and allowed the film to be released as originally planned. When asked about what’s next for Saitoh Takumi, his eyes lit up as he spoke about

his upcoming projects—directing the experimental film Comply+-Ance, and producing and starring in the thrilling Manriki, both slated for release in 2019 and 2020. And he’s looking forward to returning to the Toronto Japanese Film Festival for a third visit in as many years.

Film info A Gambler’s Odyssey 2020 Release date: April 5, 2019 Director: Kazuya Shiraishi Starring: Saitoh Takumi, Momo, Becky, Pierre Taki and Naoto Takenaka More info: www.mahjongg2020.jp (Japanese language only)

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Staff Pick | Konjiki

By Nicholas Jones

A SECOND CHANCE AT AWARDWINNING RAMEN Konjiki opens its second Toronto location alongside famed tempura chain Akimitsu. hen Konjiki arrived in North York in the winter of 2018, it was this award-winning, Michelin-starred ramen restaurant’s first location this side of the Pacific. So it is of little surprise that the location has been incredibly popular since opening, with long waits and lines out the door.

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If you’ve been meaning to try Konjiki’s famous, clam-based ramen for a while now, but haven’t managed to make it to North York, good news! Konjiki has just opened a second location, this time right in the heart of the city and a mere stone’s throw from the growing collection of J a p a n e s e b u s i n e s s e s a r o u n d t h e intersection of Dundas and Bay. At this new location, you’ll still be able to find Konjiki’s full-flavoured, earthy, clam-based broth. However, just as he did with his other Canadian location, head chef Atsushi Yamamoto has continued his experimentation with new types of ramen featuring local ingredients. Nowhere is this more apparent than with the marriage of famed Japanese and Canadian meats in the new wagyu and Angus beef shoyu ramen—available only Sunday, Monday and Tuesday while supplies last.

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I was fortunate to try this new bowl on my visit, and from the first bite I could taste the rich, umami flavour of the broth. Derived from a combination of beef bone, tendon and meat, truffle sauce, and a whole chicken, the result is a clear, brown broth that features notes of salt without being salty, alongside a slight sweetness. The complex broth was easily the star of the bowl for me, which is saying something as both the noodles and beef were also phenomenal. The thin slices of roasted wagyu and Angus beef maintained a satisfying amount of texture and flavour, while garnishes like onions, leek and watercress lent a very pleasant crunchiness and freshness to this bowl. The other downtown-exclusive dishes include a new take on Konjiki’s already popular tonkotsu ramen—this time featuring pork broth that has been cooked for much longer to impart a deeper flavour— and a variation of its vegetarian ramen. The latter bowl switches out the potatobased broth from the North York location for avocado, mushrooms, soy milk and heavy cream. It is topped with a generous amount of vegetables, including fresh tomato and arugula, roasted corn and pumpkin, porcini mushrooms and tofu nuggets. The roasted pumpkin stood out

for me as a good complement for both broth and fresh ingredients, and the tofu nuggets came through with a surprising amount of flavour. Whether you’re already a lover of Konjiki or you’ve yet to discover it, this new downtown location opens up this awardwinning ramen experience to a whole new audience.

Konjiki Ramen Located above Shitamachi Tendon Akimitsu 41 Elm St., Toronto | 416-519-6794 konjikiramen.com OPEN: Sun–Thurs 11:30 am–10 pm Fri–Sat 11:30 am–10:30 pm

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Nicholas Jones Nicholas lived in a tiny fishing village in Hokkaido from 2009 to 2011. Ostensibly, he taught English, but he spent most of his time wrangling elementary students and frequenting their parents’ sushi restaurants. He is currently on a quest to find Toronto’s best karaage.


Opening Staff Wanted!

KINTON RAMEN & KINKA IZAKAYA

JOB FAIR

Date : July 2nd(Tue) & 3rd(Wed) Time :

3:00pm - 5:30pm

Walk in with your resume! Admission is free!

Location :

JP CANADA

Meet with our team!

55 Eglinton Ave East, Suite 205 Toronto ON M4P 1G8

NOW HIRING FOR ALL POSITIONS FOH

Server, Barback, Floor Leader, Service Manager / BOH

Or apply via :

Kitchen Helper, Cook, Chef, Chef Manager

Email : jobs@kinkafamily.com | Website : www.kinkafamily.com/career

110 Harbour Street, Unit 108 A, Toronto, ON M5J 0B7

110 Harbour Street, Unit 108 B, Toronto, ON M5J 0B7

55 Eglinton Ave East, Suite 205 www.bentoboxmag.ca JU LY 2019 31 Toronto ON M4P 1G8


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