Conceptual Trend Report A/W 14/15 by wendy bendoni

CONCEPTUAL TREND REPORT: A/W 14 -15

CONCEPTUAL TREND: MODERN + ORGANIC ELEMENTS

CONCEPTUAL TREND: COMFORT ZONE

CONCEPTUAL TREND: CRAFTSMANSHIP

In February 2014, we surveyed 175 buyers, designers, media and press writers, and brand representatives to discover the trends and countries found within this report.

CONCEPTUAL TREND REPORT A/W 14-15 Design – whether it be for fashion, home or any lifestyle vertical – is built upon FORECASTING. As a result, we’ve built multi-million dollar businesses upon the ability to predict and tell designers, companies, and marketers what people want, before they consciously realize they want it. Forecasting is FUTURECASTING and, as futurecasters, we’re interpreting and anticipating what consumers will want to purchase. We scan tens of thousands of images, look at historical purchase data and patterns, as well as look for predictive indicators of what’s coming next. It’s why every six months, we have fashion weeks and trades shows. Every six months, we show what’s coming next – though we have ideas of what’s coming two, three and even five years out. There are still those who ask, “Where does it all start? Where is the source of inspiration for what comes down the runways and is available in your favorite department stores?” This season, SOURCING at MAGIC partnered with WHY THIS WAY and Woodbury University's Fashion Marketing Department to research consumer behavior and its influence on textiles. From this collaboration, we’ve created a first of its kind trend report that highlights of what finished products will be comprised. We look at the elements that make up finished designs and trends aligned to current consumer purchase behavior to paint a picture of what’s coming next. So, if you see how Mad Men has impacted consumers’ need for heritage and CRAFTSMANSHIP or how The Hunger Games is driving MODERN, don’t worry, that’s exactly what you’re supposed to see. This conceptual trend report focuses on consumer interest for the next year (2014 – 2015). We not only highlight the materials (textiles, trims, treatments, but highlight the consumer needs and interests. We’ve introduced ‘Sources’ from vendors found at SOURCING at MAGIC that are offering the best of the materials to create these concepts for multiple markets. So whether you’re a car manufacturer, menswear designer or interior design company, this is applicable to you. We you enjoy the creative insights found within this conceptual trend report.

CONCEPTUAL TREND: MODERN + ORGANIC ELEMENTS

MODERN + ORGANIC ELEMENTS: CONSUMER ANALYSIS This concept is based on consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; desire to balance technology and ecology; it represents cultural reactions of moving into the modern lifestyle while building multiple aspect of sustainability into it. This trend highlights the ideals of modern living by connecting them with the emotional aspects of the environment around them. It also represents the development of an aesthetic perception as a part of the reaction to organic influence in art and design. Organic in shape and form as opposed to organic materials. The modern component can be presented by experimenting with pleats (as seen with Issey Miyake). This concept is also based around irregular effects of a material that add organic (botany, flowers, vines) inspiration around the human body. This new way of introducing minimalists comes from the organic approach to design. The folds, darts, and pleats add points and angles to provide a new surface give a new geometry to the design. The organic materials are now being simulated into the design elements. INTANGIBLE ELEMENTS TIED TO EMOTIONAL PURPOSE: Aware of the geometry of the human frame; use of geometry helps to generate forms and create a unique structure that can be transformed into a shape that mimics nature. COUNTRIES SOURCED FOR CONCEPT: Modern Line Theory: one with nature and/or reclaiming materials Elements that blur the lines between nature and modern design TAIWAN Space theory; Image-makers collaborate with multiple disciplines Coneco Pleats, Canice Hsu Convergence of sustainability TANGIBLE ELEMENTS TIED TO PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT: Hollow airy yarns Natural fiber (e.g. cork materials) Twist of vegetable fibers Rustic characteristics Organic in design Landscape Imagery: digital printing and micro-patterning Memory folds Organic silhouettes (foliage)

coneco@coneco.com.tw / www.coneco.com.tw CHINA Pan-Think Footwear Co Ltd. Weiliang Zeng, info-pan-think@163.com / Kindy932@163.com Shanghai Qianzheli Clothing Co Limited, Elyson Wong, www.qianzheli.com MEXICO Aztex Trading, Graham Anderton ganderton@aztex.net / www.aztex.net

CONCEPTUAL TREND: MODERN + ORGANIC ELEMENTS

CONCEPTUAL TREND: COMFORT ZONE

COMFORT ZONE: CONSUMER ANALYSIS Consumers are looking for the chance to reconnect with themselves. The concept behind comfortzone is based around the design elements that allow consumers to escape reality and transform not only their state of mind, but their surrounds with ease. Calming colors and serene elements of ‘touch’ (tactile perception) are key. The design components are kept humble and give the consumer mobility to create a living design based on comfort and wellbeing. There are even international comfort zone movements such as the “Silence Room” by Selfridges in London, England. When founder Harry Gordon Selfridge opened the store in 1909, it included a “Silence Room” where customer could find breething space. “No Noise” by agency 18 Feet and Rising and “The Quiet Shop” by architect Alex Cochrane is a translation of this into other retail settings. There are also ties to the movement in people becoming more mindful in the world through conscious thinking and actions. Comfort Zones links the desire for luxurious leisurewear and the ability to nestle up to indulge in comfort of leisure time. It is said that the greatest luxury of all is time and that is something that most consumers are lacking. TANGIBLE ELEMENTS TIED TO PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT: SMART fabrics that are engineered around wearability (comfort) Soft washes, tactile (surface texture) Ultra plush feel / handle Cashmere – purity Handspun yarns / Felts Performance fabrics (breathability) Exaggerated chunky knits created with oversized gauge needles Natural whites without using optical bleach; Non-chemical processing Greige goods (raw materials in their natural state) Slow dying process to preserve softness / Rust dyes COUNTRIES SOURCED FOR CONCEPT: PERU Perumoda, www.perumoda.com MEXICO Aztex Trading, Graham Anderton ganderton@aztex.net / www.aztex.net

INTANGIBLE ELEMENTS TIED TO EMOTIONAL PURPOSE: Nesting / Cocooning Holistic / Purist Innocence Sanctuary Quiet, gentle, tender Taking time for oneself Comfort with the ability to offer it “to go” Stress & hassle free / Undisturbed Overall emphasis on comfort Minimalist labeling

MONGOLIA Buyan Cashmere LLC, LINK Uguuj Shim LLC, www.uguujshim.com USA Nature USA, Mike Farid Mike1@natureusa.net / www.natureusa.net

CONCEPTUAL TREND: COMFORT ZONE

CONCEPTUAL TREND: CRAFTSMANSHIP

CRAFTSMANSHIP: CONSUMER ANALYSIS Consumers are focusing on heritage of traditional handcraftsmanship. They are becoming more conscious of the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;story of behind the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and also participating in the brand's ethos with their own experiences and reflection (intrinsic motivations). Consumers feel the need to communicate their integrity of design appreciation through their valued purchases. Craftsmanship and its unique attributes contribute to this motivation of purchase as consumers love to discover new artisans sharing their innovation through their design skillsets. The Craftsmanship conceptual trend is based on exploring cultural elements of heritage with which consumers connect. INTANGIBLE ELEMENTS TIED TO EMOTIONAL PURPOSE: Communicate its long-term loyalty Commitment to rare and unique skill-sets applied to design Appreciation by influential personalities and designers Attention to detail One-Of-A-Kind Integrity of design The idea of not compromising quality Technically stimulating Conceptually and visually inviting

COUNTRIES SOURCED FOR CONCEPT:

TANGIBLE ELEMENTS TIED TO PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT: Details on products appear custom Each and every detail is a tribute to our roots in traditional Products with a heritage story Unique attributes "BESPOKE" describes a high degree of customisation

COLUMBIA Articur, Sebastian Eusse iventas@articur.com www.articur.com

INDONESIA Leginayba, Sarah Dewi sarahdewi@leginayba.com www.leginayba.com Baguda Wear, Roger Khaw rogerkhaw@bagudawear.com www.bagudawear.com

MEXICO Aztex Trading, Grahman Anderton ganderton@aztex.net / www.aztex.net

CONCEPTUAL TREND: CRAFTSMANSHIP

5 COUNTRIES AND VENDORS TO NOTE

As part of our first report, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve included companies and manufacturers that enable designers to produce quality products from our trends. As an extension, we also like to highlight five manufacturers who deliver superior quality products and processes that can help designers produce products consumers will want.

CHINA Merry Trade Limited, NINGBO, China, www.leapfashion.com Merry Trade offers a unique approach to dyeing their textiles. The company’s process allows for dye application while still enabling fabrics (shirts) a soft, chambray style. Their specialty materials are colorfast organic and non-organic cotton. They have multiple dye processes that can include enzyme wash, over-dye, and pigment dyeing. They are currently experimenting with a new process called Snow Wash Dyeing, a process of adding the chemicals to give the textile shape, structure, and form while washing the shirt as a plain shirt. The dye spreads and allows for the style to be different for each one. INDIA NC John & Sons Pvt Ltd, www.ncjohn.com NC John & Sons was founded in 1943 as a family business, this manufacturer is known for their 100% natural, eco-friendly fabrics and vegetable dyes derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. Some of the colorants include iron rust, alizarin, turmeric, harda, alum, and indigo. This company is also known in the home industry as a leader in natural fiber good. N.C. John and Sons Pvt. Ltd. is one of the premier exporters of natural floor coverings from Kerala. PERU Perumoda, www.perumoda.com Perumoda represents Peru as a whole. They promote direct contact between themselves and buyers nationwide. Peru’s specialty is their cotton. Using two different types of cotton “Pima and Tanguis cotton” provides the fabric with the perfect essentials to make the garment more delightful for the consumer. What is a memorable Peruvian equality is that they use alpaca fur. Alpaca is considered to be “Gods’ fiber”, which Peru contains “80% of the alpaca’s word production”. The alpaca fur is highly seen in the fashion industry for its coziness, and its ability to contain dye.

MEXICO Aztex Trading, Vallejo, Mexico, www.aztex.net Aztex Trading manufactures with “authenticity” for a one-of-a-kind appeal. They are known for their hand-stitched appliques made from scraps of fabric left behind and hand knitted knitwear. Each piece is made by a group of ladies who are sourced in the small town of Queretero, Mexico. Most of these women are working to support their families and this may be their only source of income. Aztex strives to bring manufacturing back to the Western Hemisphere and their “authenticity” and one-of-a-kind detailing is the best way to compete with competitors in Asia. They also are a part of Mexmakers: Concept to Consumer “Mexmakers is a coordinated specialized supply chain. A cluster of companies that create, develop and manufacture different types of products in order to offer creativity, variety, availability and flexibility.” Creating a sense of community really sets them apart from the rest and offers a unique approach to manufacturing that truly “tells a story.” USA Vapor Apparel, Charleston, SC, www.vaporapparel.com Vapor Apparel is the manufacturer of high quality performance apparel engineered for mass customization with sublimation. Founded in 2004, Vapor Apparel is the industry leader in Sublimation Certified ™ blank and decorated apparel. As part the company’s mission to protect the environment and reduce our carbon footprint, they operate in 100% efficient LEED certified facilities and support local environmental sustainability initiatives. About Sublimation: Sublimation printing is a form of digital printing that works only with polyester fabric and is like a “tattoo on the garment.” The dyes are infused directly into the fibers when the right amount of heat is added which makes a virtually permanent full color, high-resolution print that will not crack, fade or peel EVER!

CONCEPTUAL TREND: Report Editorial Credits Editorial: Forecasting & Analysis:

Macala Wright, WHY THIS WAY Wendy K. Bendoni, A.Professor - Forecaster Woodbury University, Fashion Marketing Department Jennifer Olmscheid, Textile Consultant

Layout: Photography:

Carlo Soriano, @HandDrawnLife David Rayside, Australia Maryfaith Soriano, San Diego, California

For more information on the tradeshow, visit: www.magiconline.com/sourcing-at-magic