GOURMET LIFESTYLE TRAVEL
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here’s no doubt about it – Latin American cuisine is hot at the moment, around the world. Having popped up on various food trend lists for 2013, South American food is definitely having its moment. But there is so much more to it than Brazilian Churrascuria and Argentinian Asado. Chile may not yet be on the world’s radar as a gastronomical destination, but it is just a matter of time before this unique, long country with varied geography – it stretches along 4,300km bordering Peru on the north, Bolivia and Argentina to the east, sheltered by the majestic Andes mountain range, and the Strait of Magellan in the south – starts attracting tourists to try their unique cuisines and fantastic produce. So far, Chile’s stunning coastlines, lofty mountains and volcanoes, lush valleys and forests, awe-inspiring glaciers and deserts, and a rich cultural and literary legacy have been reason enough for tourists to visit in droves (it made it to the New York Times must-visit destination list for 2011) – it’s not many countries that can lay claim to having all this in one single destination. This blessed geography, which also means the land is well-protected by the Pacific ocean and the Andes mountains from foreign pests, has led to an agricultural abundance – Chile grows everything from Mediterranean fruit and vegetables to indigenous produce you can’t find anywhere else – and an abundance of seafood, including species unique to the region, which is at the heart of its gastronomy. With a focus on fresh, natural produce, eaten in as natural a state as possible, and clean, simple flavours, Chilean cuisine has evolved with influences from Europe and even the Middle East, with one basic philosophy – the ingredient is the hero. And what ingredients they are! Quinoa, which is increasingly being seen as a supoerfood elsewhere in the world, is something Chileans have been eating for centuries. Chilean salmon and seabass has made its way into the menus of top restaurants around the world, but nowhere else is it as prized as it is here. Exotic seafood like barnacles, whip hake, pink cask-eel, clams and abalone are commonly used in the local diet. From avocados, berries, and olives to native produce only available here such as Murta (Chilean guavaberry), rosehip, and Papaya (not the tropical paw paw we are familiar with, but a smaller, yellow conical fruit cultivated in colder climates), the land and the sea in Chile is so generous, that good food is never hard to come by. While traversing the entire country to discover its cuisine can take months – I know, a friend did it! – here is my pick of essential experiences you need, to get a true taste of Chile.
Mulato restaurant
URBAN GOURMET Anyone’s first port of call in Chile has to be capital city Santiago. With a vibe that is more European than Latino, Santiago, Chile’s main commercial centre, is a young, energetic city with tree-lined paths and historic buildings rubbing shoulders with modern high-rises, along both banks of the Mapucho river that runs through it. The Plaza de Armas is the city centre with tourist attractions like the Romanesque Santiago main cathedral, while the nearby Constitution Square is home to historic buildings from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. A can’t-miss attraction in Santiago is Bella Vista, a quaint arty quarter where you will find gorgeous boutiques, cafés and restaurants, and art galleries dotted around a warren of leafy lanes – it’s perfect for picking up souvenirs such as lapis lazuli jewellery by day, and getting a taste of the local nightlife after dark. After a hard day checking out the city sights, head to Restaurant Mulato in Lastarria, headed by Chilean celebrity chef Cristian Correa. In an effort to revive Chile’s lost culinary legacy, Cristian serves contemporary food that celebrates the ingredient – whether it’s fresh sea urchins or local berries, with the menu using produce sourced from local markets. Set in a converted heritage building, the restaurant offers a relaxed yet elegant atmosphere, not unlike a country home, that provides the perfect atmosphere for sampling the homemade breads, micro-brewed beers, freshly roasted on-site coffees, and of course, creative cuisine. Call 00562-6384931 for Restaurant Mulato. Visit cristiancorrea.cl for more on the chef. WINE COUNTRY Just an hour from Santiago is the Colchagua valley, a fertile region that is now not only the country’s leading wine-producing area, but also a prestigious holiday home suburb for the wealthy. The Viu
Manent winery in Colchagua is a family-run establishment dating back to 1935. Spread over 250 hectares, Viu Manent specialises in fine wines – the oldest vine is 120 years old – produced with sustainable and eco-friendly values. The picturesque winery is open for tours, where you can explore the vineyards and cellars in oldschool horse-drawn carriages guided by friendly staff, but what makes it truly unique is the on-site cooking studio run by Chilean foodie personality, Cordon Bleu-trained chef and former fashion PR, Pilar Rodriguez. Combining her passion for food with her marketing experience, Pilar offers visitors a unique insight into the diversity of produce in Chile, combining local ingredients, most of them sourced from within a 50-metre radius, with French cooking techniques to delicious effect – think Steamed crayfish with organic herbs where the fish comes from nearby Limari river; Pan seared lamb loin from a local farm with cherries and plums; and Chilean hazelnut crumbs with pisco granita (pisco is the Chilean national drink, a grape brandy), all paired with the finest wines. Visit viumanent.com for details of wine tours and tastings; Pilar’s cooking studio is open for group bookings, visit pilarrodriguez.com. LAKESIDE LUXURY Further south in Chile, Pucon is a destination in the Mapuche region popular with tourists for its spectacular landscapes of snow-capped mountains, crystal-clear lakes, lush valleys carpeted with seasonal blooms, and dense forests. To explore nature at its scenic best, check into the Antumalal hotel, a unique boutique resort on the banks of the Villarica lake, that has hosted many a celebrity visitor including the Queen of England. Designed to blend into its environment, the stylish 22-room resort marries Bauhaus architecture with Alpine log cabinstyle comforts. The floor-to-ceiling windows offer incomparable views while cosy fireplaces, and touches like rugs scattered over the natural wood floors and colourful cushions, create a homely feel. With warm service to match, this is where that rare balance between sophistication and friendliness is effortlessly achieved. You can choose to do as much or as little as you want here, from activities including whitewater rafting, horseback riding, trekking and hiking, kayaking and fishing, to curling up with a book by the fireplace with a view. But the one thing you should definitely not miss is the delectable food at the Parque restaurant. Whether it’s traditional specialties such as empanadas and Chilean ceviche, or food with a European twist such as smoked salmon salad, Patagonian lamb rack with creamed barley and March 2013 BBC Good Food Middle East 117