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APRIL 2015 Nº 219



Host a house concert


Castelldefels is calling




PLUS! ART 01 cover.indd 2




NICE WHEELS! Get your skates on


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Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Publishing Consultant Tim Parfitt

{ISSUE 219} APRIL 2015

Art Director Aisling Quigley Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell, Aline Davis Sales Assistant Roelien Prinzen Editorial Assistants Abigail Davies, Rachel Huffman, Kirsten Sylvain

WHAT'S ON 20 22 24 26

Music Art Misc. Pullout Calendar


Design Assistant Lucia Lopez-Murcia

06 08 10 29 34 36 50

Contributors Jay Collins, Miquel Hudin, Sam Zucker, Tori Sparks, Anthony Bain, Tara Stevens

New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Fashion Travel Food & Drink Interview

Photographer Yan Pekar Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial: Advertising: General:

Carrer de la Ciutat 7 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96


METROPOLITAN contributors

12 REPORT: FAR EAST EATS Sam Zucker takes us on a gastronomic adventure in Barcelona’s barrio chino. 18 FRONT ROW How to organise a live acoustic session in your own front room. 30 RUN FOR COVER Another Civil War air raid shelter is uncovered in Sant Andreu. 33 KEEP ROLLING Get your skates on day or night around the city.

APRIL 2015 Nº 219



Host a house concert

BEACHSIDE DINING Castelldefels is calling

DIRECTORIES 40 42 45 48 49

Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Shopping Jobs




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Get your skates on


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This month’s cover captures the colourful atmosphere of the Chinese New Year celebrations in Barcelona. Photo by Sam Zucker.




Originally from Wales, Abigail loves exploring different cultures and (attempting) to learn new languages. She studied English Literature at the University of Manchester before completing a MA in Magazine Journalism at City University, London. Now an editorial intern at Metropolitan, she currently divides her time between writing articles, exploring new places and meeting new and interesting people. A coffee addict and literature lover, she has just started an Instagram account devoted to Barcelona’s bookshops and coffee shops. Curious? Follow welsh_americano.

Tori is a professional musician living in Barcelona. Since 2005, Tori has released five albums under the auspices of her own record label, Glass Mountain Records. Her most recent work, El Mar, is a bilingual collaboration with Barcelona-based flamenco fusion trio, Calamento. When on the road, she plays shows in everything from large festivals to small house concerts. Tori writes for Metropolitan on topics dealing with society, culture, art and music, and she enjoys the opportunity it presents to meet fascinating people she might otherwise never come across.

Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook based between Barcelona and Fez. She contributes regularly to a number of international publications, such as the Telegraph and Conde Nast Traveler, and her recipes have appeared in Olive and Food and Wine magazine. Her work has taken her all over the world, from the kitchens of David Thompson’s Nahm in Bangkok to the icebergs of Illulissat in Greenland in search of ancient Inuit recipes, but she’s never happier than when pottering around Barcelona looking for the next delicious thing to eat.


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Carpintería. Codols 23. This trendy yoga and music studio is housed inside an old vintage shop, in the midst of the Gothic Quarter. Twice a week, the cosy venue holds vinyasa yoga sessions on the mat, to a backdrop of live cello music mixed with electronic beats. Chilean cellist and composer, Pepe Arias, and English yoga teacher, Lucy Beckwith, founded the project, combining creative forces to excellent effect. As well as vinyasa yoga, the Carpinteria also offers sivananda and restorative classes, all of which are a great opportunity to revitalise your body and mind. If you’re looking for something new to start this spring, this studio is bursting with energy and inspiration. Keep an eye out for the homemade ‘love juice’ at the end of each session, packed full of healthy ingredients. Namaste.


Brewdog. Casanova 69. Another month, another craft beer brewery comes to town, and this time it’s the mighty Brewdog. After conquering the UK market, Brewdog, which was born in 2007, is slowly but steadily taking on the world and has chosen Barcelona as its next target, due to the bourgeoning craft beer revolution that has been gathering speed over the last couple of years. The bar is primarily dedicated to selling Brewdog beers, which are brewed in Aberdeenshire, Scotland (where it all began), although it also puts the spotlight on smaller brewers, many of them local, inviting them to promote their produce and to meet the clientele in regular ‘Meet the Brewer’ events. You can also learn how to taste beer at the ‘Brewdog Beer School’ events, coming soon. This former bank in the Eixample, which dates from 1915, has been given an extra cool makeover with the help of local graffiti artist and illustrator David Rivero, whose original artwork scales the walls of the interior, capturing the industrial, punk aesthetic of Brewdog and combining it with some Barcelona style.


Pilates & Cake. Passeig de Joan de Borbó 36. You’ve probably come across the Cup & Cake group—a chain of cafes around the city where you can find simple foods made with love and the best available ingredients. Now the company has taken the concept of sharing a good meal with friends to a whole other, more energetic, level. At Pilates & Cake, customers can practise Pilates and work up an appetite before savouring delicious, healthy food. Monday to Friday, they offer a 50-minute pilates class, followed by a 45-minute breakfast overlooking the sea. There’s also a brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. So, whether you prefer cake or pilates, or a bit of both, you’re sure to have a pleasant experience here. It’s all part of a rich, balanced lifestyle.


Señor Archer. Carrer de la Paloma 15. In a world of Instagram, mega pixels and the seemingly uncontrollable proliferation of images, Señor Archer offers the opportunity to spend more time on the photographic process and take home a unique memory. You don’t have to think too far back to remember when photographs were tangible, physical things, rather than a collection of megabytes stored on a computer. But you need to go a little further back in time to arrive at the tintype, which dates from the mid-19th century and was produced using the wet plate collodion technique—a technique that combines chemistry and photography. Named after the inventor of the collodion process, Frederick Scott Archer, this quaint, Raval-based studio revives the care and patience once taken over every image, something that the owner and photographer, Alberto Gamazo, is passionate about. The end result is a finely detailed, metal photograph, with a beautiful aesthetic that no Instagram filter could replicate. “Opening an analog portrait studio in 2014 may not seem the most logical of ideas,” admits Gamazo, “But maybe life ain’t worth living without a little madness and obstinacy!”


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MONAS DE PASQUA Treat yourself to a mona de Pasqua, or at least do some window-shopping. The equivalent of the Easter egg, the chocolate mona is typically given to children by their godparents. They take all sorts of elaborate forms, from a classic egg to football players, trains and castles. All the city’s pastisserías will proudly display their own monas, but for real local classics, take a peek in the window of Escribà (Gran Via 546 and La Rambla 83).

BUY A BOOK AND A ROSE Celebrate the patron saint of Catalunya, Sant Jordi, and UNESCO World Book Day on April 23rd—a floral and literary festa, when people give books or roses to loved ones. Wherever you are in the city, the pavements will be filled with books and roses, but to really soak up the festive atmosphere take a stroll down Rambla de Catalunya, red rose in hand.

GET LOST! For a fun Sunday outing, take the green line up to Mundet and pay a visit to Barcelona’s oldest garden, the 18th-century Parc Laberint d’Horta. Formerly a royal estate, you’ll find lush foliage, streams, ponds and many architectural influences, from Moorish to Neoclassical and Romantic. The highlight is the central maze, made of a series of two-metre high hedges. Race your friends (or your children) to the centre.

LEARN ABOUT THE CITY’S DARK SIDE… Enough of chocolate, books and roses! Why not really get to know the city in all its sordid details, by taking the Barcelona Nocturna y Criminal tour? The route is available in Spanish and Catalan and takes participants down the Ramblas to discover the most gory and fascinating crimes of the past 200 years. Tours cost €14. See for details.

HANDMADE FESTIVAL Get crafty at the second edition of the Handmade Festival which will host over 100 workshops, master classes, tasting sessions, exhibitions and concerts, plus a huge range of articles and materials from more than 250 exhibitors. The festival is divided into six sections: sewing, paper, cookery, DIY and gardening, handmade weddings, and mini-handmade, where children can try their hand at a host of creative activities. From bookbinding to bread making and urban gardening to Aztec weaving, there’s something here for everyone to get their hands on. April 24th-25th, Fira de Barcelona. See for details.

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LABPERFUM Astúries 52 This fragrant store takes expensive brand name scents and tweaks them to create and produce their own more affordable perfumes and colognes. They might make one scent more prominent than in the original, for example, or replace another with a natural ingredient found in Catalunya. Customer Charles, 44, from New York, said, “I heard that this shop does—I won’t say ‘copycat’—but inspired scents. So instead of spending €90-100 on the Hermes cologne I like, I come in here for #17, which only costs me €20.”

TORRENT DE L’OLLA WE HEAD TO GRÀCIA TO DISCOVER A THRIVING NEIGHBOURHOOD STREET. OTADUY Torrent de l’Olla 45 The wedding dress collections in this shop are a breath of heavenly air. Gorgeous, light, feminine materials such as silk, lace and a unique fabric, specially designed by Otaduy and handmade in India, are used in elegant, flattering styles to fit any bride. “We have customers from all over the world,” said one of the owners, Carolina, 35. “Because our dresses are couture, specialised for each individual bride, we can ensure that changes will be made until she is completely happy.”

KILO ROPA Torrent de l’Olla 66 Unlike large distributors who mass-produce clothes and accessories for a certain target audience, Kilo Ropa has something special for everyone. You can uncover high quality, unique designs throughout the store. And the best part? No price tags. You pay by weight.

EL CAFÈ Torrent de l’Olla 48 Only in Gràcia can you find a spot that mixes vegan tapas with rock’n’roll. Eat, drink and listen to live acoustic music performed every Saturday amongst flyers from past concerts at the bar and psychedelic wallpaper. “It’s my first time here,” said Bernardo, 29, from Brazil. “I came in because I know people here, but it’s been a good experience so far. The decor, the atmosphere, the beer. All good.”


What book has changed your life?

“Hyperion by Dan Simmons. I’ve probably read it 19-20 times. I’m a sci-fi fan and that book is burned into my brain. No other book has topped it.”

27, Barcelona


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MARTIN 28, Girona

DANIEL “Incerta Glòria by Joan Sales. It’s the first book written about the Spanish Civil War that I really liked—it’s the most interesting. It’s not just about the war, it’s about a lot of things.”

MESSIÉ PIZZA Torrent de l’Olla 65 A hefty number of customers stand behind this pizza, making substantial claims that it is the best pizza in Barcelona. “The three Bs,” said one fanatic. “Bueno. Bonito. Barato.” It’s not the toppings that make the pizzas here stand out, but the style—its thin and crispy pizza is ideal for devouring during those late night cravings! Not to mention an amiable staff that loves a bit of moustache fun.

SUSANNA 40, Barcelona

“The Pillars of the Earth by Ken Follett. It transported me into a different time.”

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ST. G Torre Altho table be a Torre inspi wall exce glass pops in the cosy catc week

ST. GERMAIN Torrent de l’Olla 113 Although it’s not always easy to find a table, this eccentric bar should definitely be a stop when you’re bar-hopping down Torrent de l’Olla. Enjoy the Picassoinspired people painted on the main wall of the bar while you sip on an exceptionally made cocktail or hefty glass of wine. Laura, 23, from Ireland, pops into St. Germain any night she’s out in the neighbourhood. “It’s a warm and cosy place with a great atmosphere for catching up with the gals after a long week.”

CHIVUO’S Torrent de l’Olla 173 Slow street food and craft beer combined with friendly management make for a relaxed and tasty experience at Chivuo’s. Alex and Juan opened their doors seven months ago and are already serving around 100 people daily. After living in the States, Juan came to Barcelona confident that American street food would be a hit here. Hamburgers, tuna melts, grilled chicken sandwiches and Philly cheesesteaks are something anyone around the world can indulge in. “It was just an idea, an experiment really,” said Alex. “We decided to keep it simple. Luckily that concept is working for us, and people seem to be enjoying themselves.”

ARIBAU 87, 2.2A, 08036, Barcelona OFFICE: 93 952 3283 | MOBILE: 675 803 210 |

EL OTRO Torrent de l’Olla 83 From the outside, this bar is nothing special— the lime green signage and cheesy, chalkboard drink specials might even be a deterrent—but its location at the corner of Torrent de l’Olla and Travessera de Gràcia draws a big, multi-lingual crowd. And once you’re inside, it’s a lot of fun. Drinks made to taste—mojitos and caipirinhas are their specialities—by a staff that shares good vibes amongst themselves and make the customers feel at ease and jovial as well. A good music selection and pool table add to the merriment at El Otro.

TATIANA 56, Barcelona

“Poetry is an escape from reality. It reminds me of what is important—of what is real. It’s a way to escape the world today, which sometimes seems to be like the theatre of the absurd.”

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n a high-rise building in Diagonal Mar, Yan Pekar, a freelance Russian photographer, found what he considers the perfect apartment. Having lived in Russia, Israel, the UK, Portugal and Spain, Yan is adamant that Barcelona is the most positive place he’s settled so far. “Barcelona has something for any mood,” he explained. “From my apartment, I can go across the street to the Parc del Centre del Poblenou, walk ten minutes to the beach or wander the streets, observing the changes in architecture and mood as I stroll from neighbourhood to neighbourhood.” The environment of Barcelona helped Yan develop a new concept that he calls a “tactical approach to photography”. Artists seek inspiration from all that surrounds them—from the mountains, to the city, down to the sea—but they also need a steady place to think and sort through their creativity. Yan has found such a space on Bac de Roda. The apartment building itself was designed by Carlos Ferrater, a well-known local architect. “I guess that’s why it’s bloody expensive to be a tenant,” Yan joked. Construction of the building was completed just before the bubble burst in 2008, around the time that other shiny, towering buildings like the Hotel ME, Diagonal Zero Zero and Illa del Mar were going up, altering the skyline of the area. The sleek, geometrical shape of Yan’s building fits right in with these nearby skyscrapers. From the stairwell, there’s even a view straight down Diagonal to the Torre Agbar—one of the most iconic new structures in the city. Yan has been renting his flat for three years and gives credit for the interior decor to Alba Mendez, owner of the apartment and professional designer.


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Personal trinkets can be spotted throughout the apartment, however, which have been collected from everywhere and lugged to Barcelona to make his current home comfortable and keep his memories close. The most personal of these is a large, black frame, which holds old pictures of

MEDITATION IS A BIG PART OF HIS LIFE. A JAPANESE SYMBOL FOR HAPPINESS IS TAPED ON A WALL IN THE LIVING ROOM. his parents and himself as a child. All the pictures framed around his apartment are of family, in fact. Not one he has taken as a professional. “It’s a strange feeling,” he admitted, “but I don’t want to see my own photographs around the apartment. Then I would begin to judge them myself, as opposed to now, where I only consider feedback from outsiders.” Even without prints nailed to the walls, other signs reveal an artist at work in almost every room of the apartment. A collection of rubber ducks sits in the bathroom, waiting to entertain any kids in an upcoming photo shoot. Piles of photography books sit at his fingertips, ready to provide tips and inspiration. In his Barcelona apartment, Yan only has books that truly mean something to him. Books are not easy to transport, so when he left the UK, he gave away his collection of more than a thousand books as individual gifts. That way he could share his passion for reading, while keeping his personal

belongings minimal. In his bedroom, Yan has very little clutter—the only real decoration being a small chalkboard. Written on it are Russian words, which translate to “Energy. Health. Morning freshness.” Opening his eyes each morning, reading these words, he knows he will be able to do more with his day. Stepping out of the sliding glass doors onto his balcony, Yan points out that you can spot four swimming pools, none of which belong to his building. He gets a different use out of the pools, rather than a tan. “Some people have an aquarium as visual therapy. They let the motion of the water soothe them. Well, I just look outside at the water of the swimming pools. I’ve convinced myself it’s the same thing,” he laughed.

To delve deeper into Yan’s world through his photography, visit his website www.yanpekar. photography

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Photography, especially the post-production stage that Yan does at home—cropping, retouching, perfecting—can be time-consuming and stressful, so he has many ways to calm himself down, to find inner peace. For example, when he feels his temper rising, he looks to a little, bronze statue of a frog sitting in a Buddha pose. Meditation is a big part of his life. A Japanese symbol for happiness is taped on a wall in the living room. “When I see it, I remember there is no need to feel overwhelmed,” and he pauses in his work to meditate, concentrating on the flame of a single candle. Maintaining a relaxed ambience inside his apartment, not just keeping himself relaxed, is the most important thing for Yan. “I love my apartment so much because the second I step inside, I feel a sense of calm embracing me,” he said. “Photography is my life. And I need to live in an atmosphere where I can create and work.” During the summer months, Yan has a guest practically every weekend—friends and family from the five countries he’s lived in. Everyone feels the same way about his apartment. Here they can enjoy a serenity that a lot of households never experience. “I also think I’m a good host,” Yan beamed. Whether it’s a dinner party or a couple friends over to catch up, he knows how to make people feel at ease. The only complaint might be that all the bottles around the apartment are used for candles. “There is no alcohol in the apartment,” he admitted. “I’m not a typical Russian.”

Photo by Ben Evans

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f all the Chinese foreign nationals currently residing in Spain, 70 percent are from Zhejiang. The province is also known as the ‘Land of Fish and Rice’, which seems a fitting connection to both their immigrant home and the fact that food service is still their number one business pursuit when they arrive in Barcelona. Restaurants, followed by textile production and leatherwork, comprised the top original trades of the first Chinese immigrants to Spain, and, collectively, these callings were known as ‘The Three Knives’. Now, although each new generation of Chinese foreign nationals in Barcelona is pursuing more varied professional callings, the knives and cleavers are still chopping, splitting, and slicing away in the kitchens of Barcelona’s barrio chino (or ‘chinatown’, not to be confused with the Raval, which also bore the name of barrio chino in the past). Twenty-three-year-old Kai Zhou is a perfect example of this new generation of Chinese-Catalans, helping to support their parents’ business pursuits while simultaneously setting off to forge their own paths. Kai not only brokers high-end real estate for wealthy Chinese looking to ‘buy’ residency (thanks to the recent Residencia por Inversión Inmobiliaria law, which states that a minimum investment of €500,000 in Spanish property gets you in the door), he also pitches in at his family's restaurant. Called 'Kai Xuan' (although, he swears that they didn’t name it after him), the restaurant's moniker literally translates to ‘Arc de Triomf ’—a beloved nearby city landmark that could be considered the gateway (albeit not the traditional, oriental-style gateway you might expect) to the city centre’s most denselypopulated barrio chino, Fort Pienc. And, just like nearly all other Chinese residents of Barcelona, Kai and his family hail from the curious district of Qingtian in the Zhejiang province. A region of green mountains, rivers, and rugged coastline reminiscent of Northern Spain, the Zhejiang province is now one of China’s richest, thanks to industrial fabrication, food production, and a strong entrepreneurial spirit. However, the contrast between wealthy and poor, city and country is stark. Up river from the city of Wenzhou, sits the mountainous, economically-sparse district of Qingtian. In the Eighties, following the Chinese government’s economic reforms, many

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rural families left the mountains of Qingtian in search of what could be called the ‘European dream’. Of the 500,000 residents that then populated this tiny district, some 200,000 have ventured off to find their fortunes abroad. One family settling in Spain led to two, which led to five, then ten, and so on. Gaëlla Patin-Laloy, Senior Project Manager

of Diversity and Interculturality Programmes at Casa Asia, Barcelona’s premier Asian cultural organisation, notes that in Catalunya, 4.7 percent (50,000) of the 1.1 million foreign residents are Chinese. An even more impressive statistic is that a whopping 70 percent of them come from Qingtian, a miniscule backwater district in a nation of nearly 1.4 billion people.

In Catalunya, 50,000 of the 1.1 million foreign residents are Chinese.

The colourful Chinese New Year parade in Barcelona, February 2015.

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Food service is still the number one business pursuit when Chinese immigrants arrive in Barcelona

“People came to Spain from Qingtian in the Eighties in large numbers for economic reasons,” Gaëlla explained, “But now the economies have flipped, and a lot of Spanish people are looking for business opportunities in China, so we offer tools to help them too. It’s funny,” Gaëlla mused, “that now, Europeans are the ‘easy, under-paid labour’ in China, while here, the Chinese still fill that labour role.” The big-

“What’s that one?” I asked, pointing to various mystery items that turned out to be a heap of simmering duck tongues, crunchy pig ears, pig tongues, chicken feet, pork intestines and other odd offerings.

gest challenge for the first generations of Chinese in Spain is the language. But once families reach second and third generations here, they move up to higher-ranking jobs and become part of Catalan society. The Chinese community of Barcelona is very young, with 70 percent of people between the ages of 16 and 44, and with every new generation, there are more locally educated members of the community, resulting in a growing number of Chinese doctors, lawyers, finance professionals, journalists, real estate agents, and more. Apparently, a touchy debate lingers over which group of Chinese were the first to arrive in Barcelona back in the Fifties. Even so, it is

an undisputed fact that these brave Asian pioneers brought not only their hopes and dreams to the shores of an alien Mediterranean city; they also brought the best that their homeland’s cuisine has to offer. According to Barcelona gastro-history, the original Chinese restaurant in the city opened in Plaça de Sant Jaume in November 1958. Appealing perhaps to the Catalans’ love for fire-breathing beasts, this trail-blazing establishment was dubbed the ‘Gran Dragón’, founded by the eventual Barcelona restaurant icon Peter Yang, who was born in 1921 in the Shandong province of China. Yang, who left China in 1949 for Spain, was not only a priest, trained surgeon (University of Barcelona 1957), and founder of the Spanish Institute of Tai Chi, he is also credited with something even more memorable—opening the gates of Barcelona to subsequent generations of Chinese immigrants like Kai Zhou, pursuing their fortunes in a faraway land. “Did your family have a restaurant in China?” I asked Kai, while lingering over a steaming bowl of noodle soup at my corner table, tucked away from the Kai Xuan lunch rush. “We had nothing in China,” he replied. Kai’s father, PinJin, left their homeland in 1992 to seek a better life for his family abroad; part of the ‘second wave’ of hard-working immigrants to Spain. His diligence continues to this day at Kai Xuan. Officially, the restaurant opens at 9am, though the cooks have already been at it for hours by then, preparing a traditional Chinese breakfast (for a nearly full house every day). This morning ritual consists of fried Chinese ‘churros’, steamed pork and vegetable buns, rice soup, and bowls of soy milk for sipping. “It’s like the Spanish breakfast, but with steamed pork buns and soy milk instead of

café con leche and a croissant,” explained Kai. From nine until twelve, you can order a typical breakfast, paying just 70 cents per bun and €1 for a bowl of soy milk. A delicious bargain. Kai Xuan is most popular for its homemade pan-fried dumplings (guo tie) and huge soups of tallarines hecho a mano (tender wheat noodles pulled by hand, known as La Mian in Mandarin). Kai tells me that between 70 and 90 percent of all customers order the gou tie, and the soups are the most popular with Chinese diners. These big, aromatic bowls of chicken and pork broth flavoured with soy, black vinegar, ginger, garlic and cardamom are a substantial meal unto themselves. You can choose to add tender cubes of braised beef or pork rib that is so tender it melts right off the bone. Adding a fried egg on top is optional, but highly recommended. The soups are garnished with vibrant leaves, stems of pak choi and sliced green onion, and can serve as one big meal, or two smaller ones—all for only €4.50. It took a few attempts to get the staff to take me seriously when I first peaked curiously at the glass display cases inside the entrance to


CHINESE POPULATION IN NUMBERS: 51,785 Chinese in Catalunya 17,451 Chinese in Barcelona 70% aged between 16 and 44 years old 50.5% men 49.5% women 70% from Qingtian district 4 Chinese language magazines in Spain 5 Chinese schools in Barcelona


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Kai Xuan. “What’s that one?” I asked, pointing to various mystery items that turned out to be a heap of simmering duck tongues, crunchy pig ears, pig tongues, chicken feet, pork intestines and other odd offerings. I knew I had to try this culinary exotica—call it the gut feeling of an adventuresome eater. However, it wasn’t until I brought my camera along and explained my interest in authentic Chinese cuisine that these dishes finally made their way to my lacquered wooden table, equipped like all the others in the small dining area with a box of tissue paper napkins, a crock of chilli oil, bottles of dark black Chinese vinegar and a caddy of chopsticks and soup spoons. I was excited. The salad of chilled, de-boned chicken feet with sweet chilli and coriander was surprisingly tasty, with a serious crunch that was only the slightest bit unsettling. The ‘1,000 year-old egg’—a glossy duck egg that has been buried underground for several months in a mixture of clay, ash, lime, salt and rice until it takes on a gelatinous texture and smells of strong cheese—was, however, a novel experience. Even Kai douses them with soy sauce to mask the intense flavour. For me, once was enough. The cazuela de ternera (pot of beef) arrives at the table in a mini wok, bubbling and steaming over its own butane burner. This rich, brightly-spiced stew of beef tendon was dotted with red, sun-dried jujube (hong zhou) fruits that tasted sweetly of mild vanilla and are often referred to in English as ‘red dates’ for their texture. One mysterious menu item was handwritten onto the printed menu, but only in Chinese. No matter, I wanted it! The waiter didn’t know the Spanish translation of the dish, but assured us it was very good. We took his word. It turned out to be fresh okra steamed in black vinegar and garlic—a seasonal dish that was one of the undisputed highlights of our meal. Another dish that arrived with its own, powerful flame was the humbly-named col a la plancha (grilled cabbage), seared on the flat-top grill, then simmered in a sauce of soy and spicy chilli. A subtle addition launched this dish over the top—chopped up bits of ‘Chinese bacon’ (pork belly that has been soaked in soy sauce, brown sugar, star anise, and cinnamon for several days before being air-dried). You don’t need a lot of this powerful ingredient to really elevate a dish, and Kai Xuan’s col a la plancha (not to be confused with the far-less-interesting col china) contains just enough to make this highly-fragrant preparation the best plate of cabbage I’ve ever tasted. Currently, the clientele of Kai Xuan is nearly all Chinese, but Kai’s goal is to maintain the restaurant’s authenticity while capturing the young urban crowd that flocks to hip spots in the Born and other central locations, which offer Asian-fusion ‘tapas-style’ dishes. There is no arguing that the food at Kai Xuan offers better value than its trendy equivalents (well-made dishes, twice the size for half the price), but the harsh lighting and Chinese ac-

Unlike the iconic Chinese neighbourhoods of New York and San Francisco, Barcelona's Chinatown is less conspicuous. You could wander along the streets Roger de Flor, Alí Bei, or Nàpols and not realise you had entered the most Chinese of Barcelona’s barrios.

now settling, you can truly become lost. I’ve also discovered that it’s not uncommon to find restaurants with no staff members that speak Spanish, let alone English. For adventurers, a ramble around Fondo is a curious outing (check out Wen Zhou restaurant on Carrer de Terrassa if hunger strikes), but for those who prefer to stay in the centre of the city, the bounty of real Chinese culture and cuisine (beyond the totally Western inventions of ‘Rice of Three Delights’ and ‘Spring Rolls’) is vast, tasty and affordable. Ladies and Gentlemen, prepare your chopsticks—a feast awaits!

The '1,000-year-old' pídàn (egg) is buried underground for several months in a mixture of clay, ash, lime, salt and rice until it takes on a gelatinous texture and smells of strong cheese.

tion movies that play day-to-night in Kai Xuan don’t attract the cool kids getting ready for a night on the town; no one looks sexy slurping soup under fluorescent lighting. Yet, for the savvy crowd in search of an unapologetically authentic dining experience, Kai Xuan is awesome, even if the eatery’s quirky charm is lost on the average diner. Alas, more noodles for those of us in the know. Unlike the iconic Chinese neighbourhoods of New York and San Francisco, Barcelona's Chinatown of Barcelona is less conspicuous. You could wander along the streets Roger de Flor, Alí Bei, or Nàpols and not realise you had entered the most Chinese of Barcelona’s barrios—until you stop to take a closer look; peering in windows and sniffing out succulent dishes in unexpected settings. Beyond the city centre, the next largest Chinese population in the Barcelona area is centralised around the Fondo metro stop; the last stop on the L1 (red) line. This area (Santa Coloma de Gramenet) houses the fastest-growing Chinese population in Spain, and since it’s often where the first-generation immigrants are

FAR EAST FEASTS CHINESE RESTAURANTS Kai Xuan. Roger de Flor 74. Chen Ji. C/ d'Alí Bei 65. Lu Lu Tong. Diputació 340. Pato Pekín Puerto Olímpico. Marina 16, 1ª. Wen Zhou. C/ de Terrassa 4. Santa Coloma de Gramenet Jia Nan Mei Chi. C/ de Beethoven 72. Santa Coloma de Gramenet L’Olla de Si Chuan. Plaça Dr. Letamendi 11.

ASIAN SUPERMARKETS Yang Kuang. Passeig de Sant Joan 12. Yueng Tong. Nàpols 177. Dong Fang. Balmes 6.

Tokyo-Ya. Carrer de Girona 119.


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how to... host a

HOUSE CONCERT turn your front room into an intimate backdrop for an acoustic performance With our guide to becoming the perfect musical host. TEXT BY TORI SPARKS.


ouse concerts are a vibrant aspect of the local live music scene in many parts of the United States, Canada, and Europe. The phenomenon has helped to fill in the gap created by the gradual disappearance of small listening rooms, where music lovers could formerly go to hear acoustic concerts. The unique experience of a concert in such an intimate and unusual setting is part

house party. (If you decide you want to start hosting a series of shows, a Facebook group or email list is a good idea, but for now let’s stick to the basics). It is a good idea to ask guests to RSVP, so that you know how many people to prepare for, and can control who comes in and out of your house. In addition, the ability to state, truthfully, that everyone in your home is an invited guest at a private party means you won’t be breaking any laws, i.e. running an unlicensed music venue.

House concerts are often conducted by invitation only, just as if you were throwing a house party. of the appeal for both the performers and the audience. The chance to connect directly with people on an individual level (for the artist), or share a cerveza with one of your favourite singers after the show (for the audience) is a lot of fun. In spite of its popularity in other parts of the world, the house concert trend has been slow to take root in Spain. Barcelona is one of the few cities where the idea is finally starting to catch on. So if you fancy playing host, let’s get the show on the road... SO WHAT IS A HOUSE CONCERT EXACTLY? Generally speaking, a house concert is exactly what its name implies: A concert that’s presented in someone’s home or private space. Think art studio, terrace, garden, lounge room in a hostel—any space that is not a typical bar or concert venue. Some house concerts are a onetime-only event, and others are presented as a series (e.g. every month or every other month). Usually, the size of the audience is smaller than at a bar or club due to the confines of the space: 20-50 people at most. WHO GOES TO HOUSE CONCERTS? If this is your first show, it will probably be mostly music-loving friends and acquaintances. House concerts are often conducted by invitation only, just as if you were throwing a

WHO PLAYS AT A HOUSE CONCERT? The ideal performer at a house concert is a singer-songwriter, or any acoustic-based music. More often than not, the performer is solo, just voice and acoustic guitar. An acoustic duo or trio could also work. The artists could be local musicians or even touring acts. Performers can round out their tour schedules profitably while building new markets, and enjoying the opportunity to interact with an appreciative audience at close range, all with minimal setup. SETTING UP THE SPACE: WHERE TO BEGIN? You’ll need, first and foremost, a stage area of some kind—it could be as simple as a corner in your living room, with your cool Habitat lamps rearranged to provide some mood lighting. Be creative with your set-up. Move furniture, rugs, plants, string some lights…although lighting candles is not necessarily recommended. Remember to always be safe. The audience will need seats of some kind or even just space on the floor, which they can get to without tripping over each other or the musicians. You can use your own furniture, rent a few folding chairs from a party or restaurant supply store, or borrow from your neighbour. (In fact, you should invite your neighbour to the show—this makes them even less likely to complain about the party next door). Often there is no amplification in a house

concert, the musician(s) play 100 percent unplugged. At most, they may choose to bring a small amplifier or sound system. What you’ll need for (and from) YOUR GUESTS. Explain to your guests that this is a concert, not just a party. They should arrive on time, and expect to sit and listen throughout the performance. Refreshments can be simple or elaborate, donated by guests or provided by you. The ‘pot luck’ donation formula tends to work best, as it saves the host time and money. Drinks can either be provided by the host, or the show can be BYOB (bring your own beverage). What you’ll need for the musicians. Your performer will need a stool or chair onstage, water, and a small area to display CDs if he or she has them for sale. Ask performers to arrive an hour before the audience for setup if possible. Agree on set times beforehand. If you have more than one artist playing, agree on who plays first and for how long. Accommodation: It is customary to offer the performers food and drinks, and if they are on tour, sometimes lodging is part of their compensation. If the musician is not local but you cannot offer accommodation it is not necessarily a deal breaker, but it is always best to mention that up front.


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but this shoW is in my house, right? do i PAY THE ARTISTS? Just like in any other concert, the musicians are providing a service and should be paid. You can pass the hat or choose to set a fixed rate, but most house concerts work based on a suggested donation. You set the minimum, and your guests can choose to give more if they are feeling generous. The typical price for a first-time house concert is €10 per person, plus a dish, snack, or drink to share, but you can decide for yourself what you feel is appropriate. The money collected usually goes straight to the performers, though sometimes the artist and the host work out a split where the host takes a percentage to cover costs. timetable Most house concerts are on weekend nights, and start earlier than your average show for the sake of noise regulations. 8pm or 9pm is a good time to have the music begin on a Friday or Saturday, 6pm or 7pm on a Sunday. Guests should be asked to arrive 30 minutes to an hour before the start time, this gives them a moment to chat before the music starts. The musicians play a set (usually 4045 minutes), take a 15-30 minute break, and play another set. After that, the hanging out part of the night can wind down or last as long as you like!

Alex Zayas is a Barcelona-born blues guitarist and singer who has been playing music professionally for almost 20 years. He has played several house concerts in the city, most of them private events, but he plays many more of them when touring in the US and Canada. He enjoys the highly personal atmosphere that you don’t get in a club, as it gives him a chance to connect with fans on a personal level. But, Zayas warns, “If you want to host a concert, that’s great, but it’s important to do it right or not do it at all. You have to understand that this is not just an ordinary house party, the musicians are there working.” In other words, make it a good time, but make sure to remember that the main idea is the concert, not the party.

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WILL THIS BE DIFFICULT TO PULL OFF? Not if you’re organised. Keep in mind that it’s pretty much the same thing as hosting a party, with the added element of live, acoustic music and a small cover charge to pay the costs of the host and musicians. There are resources available online to help you get organised, in fact there is even a website for the European house concert network ( One reason why there are not more house concerts in Barcelona may be because most apartments in the city centre are relatively small. It can be difficult to find an adequate space in which to host a house concert. That being said, some apartments in the Eixample, or even outside of the centre (Sant Andreu, Horta) are perfectly adequately sized. A masia in the countryside is also a nice alternative. Be creative. And enjoy.


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Joaquín Sabina Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. April 22nd. Joaquín Sabina is undoubtedly one of the most important figures in Spanish contemporary music. A singer, songwriter and poet, his prolific writing over four decades has produced 14 studio, two live and three compilation albums. Sabina has had his fair share of life experience to inspire his music—political activism, periods of deep depression, drug addiction and a stroke, to name but a few—but it is his exceptional talent as a wordsmith for which he is most famous. After a five-year break, the lyrical legend is back touring to celebrate the 15th anniversary of his most highly acclaimed album, 19 días y 500 noches (1999). This is his second stop in Barcelona, after a sell-out show in December, as part of the ‘500 noches para una crisis’ tour. Random fact: In 1975, Sabina played in front of George Harrison in a London pub, whilst living in exile. Harrison tipped him with a five pound note, which Sabina has kept to this day.



James Holden Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. April 16th. Well-known British electronic artist, James Holden, will hit the stage in Barcelona this April to showcase his latest album The Inheritors (2013). Holden, who founded the record label Border Community, has produced remixes of big names in the industry, including Madonna, Radiohead and Britney Spears, and following the success of his 2006 album, The Idiots are Winning, he was hailed an innovator on the electronic music scene. His work reaches beyond electronic to music lovers in general, and his newest album is no different. Testing the limitations of the genre, Holden incorporates elements of free jazz, acid techno and postrock sounds. For this performance, he will be accompanied by sax and drums.

Kraftwerk Gran Teatre del Liceu. Ramblas 51-59. April 22nd. As part of Barcelona’s Suite Festival, German electronic group, Kraftwerk, will be performing at the Liceu this month. Founded in 1970 by Ralf Hütter and Florian Schneider, Kraftwerk started out giving spontaneous concerts as an experimental group in Düsseldorf. The group found fame during an international tour a few years later, when their cyclic beats, robotic lyrics and captivating melodies caught the attention of critics and music lovers alike. Since then, Kraftwerk have developed a cult following for their innovative sound and ideas. Their concerts aren’t just about the music; they’re also about striking visual effects that evoke a technological world. Today the group consists of Ralf Hütter, Fritz Hilpert, Henning Schmitz and Falk Grieffenhagen, and last year they were honoured with a Grammy Lifetime Achievement Award for their work, which pioneered electronic music and has left a lasting impact across many other genres.


Morrissey Sala Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. April 29th. The enigmatic Eighties icon that is Morrissey will be gracing the city with his presence for one night only, in an intimate show at Razzmatazz on April 29th. The outspoken, yet notoriously elusive, Mancunian rose to fame in the Eighties as the lyricist and lead singer of The Smiths, and went on to become one of the most influential British artists of all time, reaching an iconic, almost godly status among his followers. Famed for his poetic lyrics, Moz has been repeatedly hailed an ‘original of the species’ by his peers, and following the release of his autobiography in 2013, and his latest album, World Peace Is None Of Your Business (2014), the vocal vegetarian is once again taking the world by storm.


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IN CONCERT 2nd. Northland Music Hall. Rambla de Catalunya 2-4. 3rd. Soen Sala Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 4th. Indochine Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 7th. Port-Bo Palau de la Música Catalana. Palau de la Música 4-6. 9th. Ei Wada “Braun Tube Jazz Band” + DJ2D2. Mazda Space. Comerç 60. 10th. Dani Flaco Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 11th. Lapsus Festival CCCB. Montalegre 5. 12th. Antonio Orozco Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. 14th. The Jayhawks BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 15th. Scott Matthew L’Auditori. Lepant 150. 16th. Ferran Palau Palau de la Música Catalana. Palau de la Música 4-6. 20th. Matthew Herbert BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 22nd. Joaquín Sabina Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olímpic 5-7. 22nd. Kraftwerk Gran Teatre del Liceu. Ramblas 51-59. 23rd. Luna Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 24th. Emptyset/Koreless CaixaForum. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. 24th-25th. Vetusta Morla Sant Jordi Club. Pg. Olímpic 5-7. 25th. Marina & The BBFace Beatroots Palau de la Música Catalana. Palau de la Música 4-6. 29th. Morrissey Sala Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 30th. Robyn Hitchcock Jamboree. Plaça Reial 17.

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Permanent collection. Galería Johnson. Passatge del Rector Oliveras 4. From Blondie and Bowie, to Madonna and The Clash, this unique collection of vintage photography takes visitors on a journey through the last 50 years of pop and rock music. The collection is housed in the brand new Galería Johnson, which opened last month in the Eixample and is dedicated to vintage photography of rock and soul icons—the first of its kind in Spain. Gallery owner Philippe Delécluse, a former art director in Paris, NYC and LA, has been working directly with world-famous photographers to carefully curate this selection of limited edition prints, many of which have graced mythical album covers or magazines including Esquire, GQ, Interview, Rolling Stone, Vanity Fair and Vogue. Named after legendary blues musician, Robert Johnson, Delécluse hopes his gallery will bring the spirit of rock and blues to life for the younger generations: “In the end, rock photography is very much like rock music— it’s not so much the technical mastery but the emotion of the moment that comes through.” Or, for those who were there, this is a chance to relive those unique moments in music history and even build up your own collection (prints available from €300).

Opens April 22nd. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. Parc de Montjuïc. Peer into Barcelona’s past through the lens of Gabriel Casas, one of the most influential Catalan photographers of the 20th century. Like many other artists of the Civil War period, Casas turned to photography as a powerful method of communication and of capturing modern industrial society. He was one of the first artists to bring the innovative New Vision photography movement from Germany to the Iberian Peninsula, combining a keen, objective observation of life’s details and an innovative aesthetic, often emphasising technology and industry. Working as a photojournalist, Casas had a successful career until the beginning of the Franco era, when he was prosecuted, incarcerated and banned from the media. This exhibition showcases 120 of his works dating from 1929 to the end of the Spanish Civil War in 1939.


MADONNA. Photo by CURTIS KNAPP / 1983.


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International Barcelona Comic Convention April 16th-19th. Fira de Barcelona. Avinguda Reina Maria Cristina This month, comic lovers will flock once again to Plaça Espanya for the 33rd International Barcelona Comic Convention. The hugely successful annual event attracts thousands of attendees, and this year will focus on a central theme, fantasy. The main exhibition will feature comics from heroic fantasy and science fiction comics, divided into author-based sections and accompanied by scientific discussions, led by Álvaro Pons, comic critic and physics professor at the University of Valencia. The exhibition will include work from Star Wars by Ramon F. Bachs, Conan the Barbarian by John Buscema, The Fantastico 4 by Jack Kirby and John Byrne, and more. The convention will also include workshops and roundtable discussions with a variety of international authors.

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ART PICKS OPENING FUNDACIO FOTO COLECTANIA La tentación de existir: Christer Strömholm and Anders Petersen. Featuring two Swedish photographers, this exhibition shows how the two artists profoundly affected modern photography with the intense empathy of their works. April 16th until July 2015. Julián Romea 6. MACBA Sergi Aguilar. Reverso y anverso (1972-2015). This exhibition follows the path of Aguilar’s works through more than four decades of sculptural pieces, as he questioned the framework of the Spanish culture of the time. April 30th until November 2015. Plaça dels Angels 1.

LAST CHANCE GALERÍA MIQUEL ALZUETA. Los Indios: Una Lectura de una Iconografía. Barcelona artist Matías Krahn has created this unique exhibition inspired by an original set of kachinas from the southwestern tribes of the United States. Until April 9th. Enric Granados 61. MACBA Art and Language Uncompleted: The Philippe Méaille Collection. This exhibition features a vast selection of Art & Language works that challenged the concept and vocabulary of art from the Sixties onwards. Until April 12th. Plaça dels Àngels 1. LA VIRREINA CENTRE DE LA IMATGE Jordi Socías. Fotografies trobades. Learn the art of looking at art from Barcelona photographer Jordi Socías in this selection of his works spanning 40 years. Until April 26th. La Rambla 99. CCCB Arissa: The Shadow and the Photographer, 1922-1936. Discover the works of New Vision photographer Antoni Arissa, a relatively unknown artist from Barcelona whose works are some of the most outstanding photographic pieces from 20th-century Spain. Until April 12th. Montalegre 5. CCCB Shadowland by Kazuhiro Goshima. A complement to the Arissa exhibit. Shadowland is a short 3D film that emphasizes light and composition in a modern context. Until April 12th. Montalegre 5.

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17th barSWINGona Festival Internacional de Swing de Barcelona Various locations. April 1st-6th. If swing is your thing, don’t forget to sign up for the 17th barSWINGona Festival Internacional de Swing de Barcelona. You can compete in the ‘Jack and Jill’ couple segment, or, if competition isn’t for you, dance the night away at one of the festival parties, take some classes with one of the eight international swing masters, or just go and watch the shows. The full pass to the festival includes a total of 13 classes, four parties and the kickoff party. If you’re just starting out, don’t worry, this festival accommodates all levels, from beginner to professional. For more information on prices and passes go to The main events will be held at Casino Poblenou, but other locations vary. For more information, visit



Brunch Electronik Poble Espanyol. Francesc Ferrer i Guardia, 13. April 12th & 26th, May 10th & 24th. For the second consecutive year, the popular sister event of Piknic Eletronik Barcelona is livening up Sundays in the city. For two Sundays each month until June, the Poble Espanyol will play host to the Brunch Electronik, serving up fresh food, electronic music and a huge variety of other activities. The lineup includes workshops in urban gardening, dance, theatre and hula hooping, as well as a number of childrenfriendly plays, short-film screenings, a flea market with local and vintage goods, and DJ sets (after 4pm). Book your tickets in advance for €10 - €13 or buy them the day of for €13 before 3pm or €15 after 3pm. Kids under 12 get in for free.

37a Cursa El Corte Inglés Starts at Passeig de Gràcia, ends in Plaça de Catalunya. April 12th. 9.30am. Barcelona’s biggest fun run takes place on April 12th—one of the most popular runs in Europe, with well over 70,000 participants in 2014. If you’re not in shape, don’t worry, the 37th El Corte Inglés race is one for all the family—young, old, fast, slow, fancy dress, celebrities, and even pets! The race starts at 9.30am on Passeig de Gràcia with Gran Via, and the highlight is the opportunity to run a lap of honour in the Olympic Stadium (Estadi Olímpic de Montjuïc) as part of the 10.766 kilometre route. Registration is free and entries close at 10pm on April 9th.



Mecal Festival Internacional de Curtmetratges i Animació Various locations. Until April 19th. In the mood for a movie? Until April 19th, you can get more than your fill at the Mecal Festival Internacional de Curtmetratges i Animació. The organisers are presenting a selection chosen from more than 5,500 short films submitted for this year’s event, from over 100 countries. Audience members can help decide which film will win the prize from each of the five competing categories: documentary, animation, obliqua (riskier, original short works), videoclips and international, but there are 36 other categories to peruse as well. The festival also offers visitors the opportunity to learn from the pros at one of the workshops or masterclasses. Attend a workshop in animation, crowdfunding or audiovisual, all at an affordable price. The festival will take place at venues around the city, including the CCCB, the Cinemes Girona and more.


11th Stroll with a Hat Rambla de Catalunya. April 12th. 12pm. If you prefer to soak up the atmosphere at a slower pace, an altogether different kind of street parade will take place on the same day as the Corte Inglés fun run. The 11th Stroll with a Hat (Passejada amb Barret) invites all hat lovers to welcome the arrival of spring by wearing their favourite headgear and joining the parade, which begins at 12pm at the junction of Diagonal with Rambla de Catalunya. Inspired by New York’s Easter Parade, the event is growing in popularity each year, with more than 1,000 participants donning their best hats for the occasion. All styles are welcome, from the most extravagant to the everyday. Now if that’s not a sight to behold, I’ll eat my hat!


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8th. American Society Happy Hour Hilton Barcelona. Diagonal 589-591. 8-11pm. 9th. Barcelona Women’s Network Coffee Morning Via Augusta 123 Atico. 11am-1pm. 11th. BWN Book Sale Casa Orlandai. Jaume Piquet 23. 11am-5pm. 13th. English Book Club Babelia Books & Coffee. Villarroel 27. 7.30pm. 16th. The Business Lunch La Pomarada. Passeig de Gràcia 78. 1.30pm. 22nd. Guiri Business Drink Cinco Jotas, Plaça Espanya. 7-9pm.


10th. Around the World in 80 Games. BIG improvisation group Tinta Roja. Creu dels Molers 17. 8.30pm. 10th-12th. Dance in Movement Festival: Pere Faura Mercat de Les Flors. Lleida 59. 8.30pm, 6pm on Sunday. 17th. Wayne Deakin Guinness Laughter Lounge. 7 Sins. Muntaner 7. 9.30pm. For opera reviews, keep an eye on our online cultural blog.


12th. 37a Cursa El Corte Inglés Entries close April 9th. 17th-19th. Espíritu de Montjuïc Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya. Montmeló. 15th & 21st. Champions League Quarter Final: FC Barcelona v Paris SaintGermain 26th. La Milla de la Sagrada Familia Entries close April 22nd.


2nd. Fast & Furious 7. 10th. The Guest, Lost River, Woman in Gold, Mortdecai. 17th. Run All Night, Shaun the Sheep: The Movie. 24th. The Water Diviner, The Humbling, Oliver’s Deal. Check out our weekly film blog, A Bitter Life Through Cinema by Lucas Cavazos, for more info about upcoming film releases.


3rd-4th. Demanoenmano CCCB. 11am-9pm. 4th. El Rastro de La Virgen Carrer de la Verge. 12pm-8pm. 4th. Brick Lane BCN Nou de Sant Francesc 4. 12pm-8pm. 4-5th. Palo Alto Market Pellaires 30. 11am-8pm. €2 entrance. 5th. Two Market Ovella Negra de Poblenou. Zamora 78. 11am-8pm. 11th-12th. Demanoenmano: Special 30th edition Universitat de Barcelona. Gran Via 585. 11am-11pm. 12th. Flea Market Barcelona Portal de Santa Madrona. 11am-7pm. 18th. Eat Street Moll de Sant Bertran, Port de Barcelona. 12pm-1am. 19th. Brunch&Brands by Two Market Barcelona Carme 42. 11am-8pm.

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8 HAUSSON MAGIC TRIBUTE: 1916-1962 A celebration magic through the decades.

PORT-BO Enjoy some lilting Habaneras from this vocal trio who have been singing together for over

THE BEST SOUNDTRACKS OF HOLLYWOOD A show of classic movie songs from the Titanic, Grease and








JV & 2MOONS A night of blues, reggae and rock. 11pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtes-


MARÍ SERRA & SERGI SIRVENT Jazz duo. Part of the Viernes de Jazz series. 8pm. Artte. Muntaner 83C


EL PETIT PRINCEP The classic children’s story in a musical. 7.30pm. Teatre Barts. Av. Parallel 62. April 1st -6th.

DEMANOENMANO MARKET Special edition celebrating the market’s 30th anniversary. 11am–11pm, Universitat de Barce-


EXPERIENCE MACBA Poderío Vital presents Vibrando los rincones, musical walk through the MACBA. 7pm. MACBA. Pl. dels Àngels 1.

BRICK LANE BCN MARKET This market brings a taste of London’s vintage scene to Barcelona. 12pm – 8pm. Nou de Sant Francesc 4.

DEMANOENMANO Two days of shopping, music and activities at the city’s itinerant vintage market. 11am-9pm. CCCB. Montalegre 5. (3rd-4th) NORTHLAND The folk metal band present their new album. 8.30pm. Music Hall. Rambla Catalunya 3. BARSWINGONA International swing festival. Dance or sit back and watch. Various locations.







ANTONIO OROZCO Spanish pop singer and composer performs as part of the Suite Festival. 8pm. Liceu. La Rambla


TWO MARKET Get vintage and second-hand goods for a Euro. Zamora 78. 11am–8pm

PALO ALTO MARKET Food, music, shopping––Get a little bit of everything at this street market. 11am–8pm. Pellaires, 30.



For more information visit our website

APRIL 2015


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CARMEN, CARMEN, CARMEN A homage to Carmen Amaya for the Festival Flamenc de Barcelona. 9pm. Palau de la Música Catalana. Palau de la Música 4-6.

NOVUM Festival of Science, Technology and Innovation. Various locations. April 14th-30th.


ENGLISH BOOK CLUB Read a classic then discuss. This month’s book is Virginia Woolf’s Orlando. 7.30pm. Babelia Bookshop & Coffee. Villarroel 27.

WTF JAM SESSION. There will be improvisation and an eclectic selection at this jazz, funk and hip-hop jam session. 8pm. Jamboree. Plaça Reial 17.








HORACIO FUMERO AND PEDRO JAVIER GONZÁLEZ DÚO Flamenco jazz comes to Barcelona. 10pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

AVENGERS: THE AGE OF ULTRON Release of the sequel to The Avengers.

MORRISSEY The Eighties British icon takes on Barcelona. 8pm. Sala Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

SERGI AGUILAR Revers i Anvers. Aguilar’s retrospective sculpture exhibition traces the development of his works over the past 40 years. MACBA. Plaça dels Àngels 1. Until November 1st.



SHEN YUN A journey through 5,000 years of Chinese civilisation with the Chinese performing arts company. 8.30pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. (also on 25th)

D’A The Festival de Cine de Autor de Barcelona brings more independent, local cinema to Barcelona. Various locations. Until May 3rd.

AEROWAVES Young choreographers perform as part of this year’s Dansa i Moviment festival. 8pm. Mercat de les Flors. Lleida 59. Until April 19th.

LA TENTACIÓN DE EXISTIR Christer Strömholm and Anders Petersen. A historical photograph collection. Fundació Foto Colectania. Julián Romea 6. Until July 30th.


CARMEN The opening of composer Georges Bizet’s famous opera. 8pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

DIA DE LA TIERRA. EARTH DAY 2015! Eco-friendly games. activities and food all day at the Ciutadella park. Parc de la Ciutadella & Passeig Lluís Companys. Until April 26th.


BLAUMUT A concert in which audience members rehearse and then perform with the choir. 10am & 1pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

BWN BOOK SALE Second-hand Spanish and Catalan book sale. 10am-4pm. Jaume Piquet 23.


LANDSCAPE FILM FESTIVAL The start of the festival in which teams create short films in just two weeks. Various locations. Until April 30th.

AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 GAMES An evening of improv with the Barcelona Improv Group (BIG). 8.30pm. Tinta Roja. Creu dels Molers 17.


DEMANOENMANO MARKET Special edition celebrating the market’s 30th anniversary. 11am–11pm, Universitat de Barcelona, Gran Vía 585.


MARÍ SERRA & SERGI SIRVENT Jazz duo. Part of the Viernes de Jazz series. 8pm. Artte. Muntaner 83C


INTERNATIONAL COMIC CONVENTION Fira de Barcelona. Avinguda Reina Maria Cristina. Until April 19th.


EL FOLLET VALENT Musical theatre for kids. Viu el Teatre. La Rambla 115. Until April 22nd.

JOAQUIN SABINA The Spanish singer, songwriter will end his popular ‘500 Noches Para una Crisis’ tour in Barcelona. 9.30pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.


GOSPEL FLOWS IN BARCELONA A fundraising concert for the Fundación Privada Centro Pedralbes, featuring the Barcelona Gospel Choir. 6pm. Palau de la Música Catalana. Palau de la Música 4-6.


EI WADA PRESENTS “BRAUN TUBE JAZZ BAND” The Japanese artist performs as part of A Taste of Sónar. Mazda Space. Comerç 60.

AMERICAN SOCIETY HAPPY HOUR Network the night away. 8-11pm. Hilton Barcelona. Diagonal 589-591.


JV & 2MOONS A night of blues, reggae and rock. 11pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

HAUSSON MAGIC TRIBUTE: 1916-1962 A celebration magic through the decades. 7pm & 9pm La Seca Espai Brossa. Flassaders 40. Until May 10th

PORT-BO Enjoy some lilting Habaneras from this vocal trio who have been singing together for over 50 years. 7pm. Palau de la Musica Catalana. Palau de la Música 4-6.

THE BEST SOUNDTRACKS OF HOLLYWOOD A show of classic movie songs from the Titanic, Grease and others. 7pm. Palau de la Música Catalana. Palau de la Música 4-6.






JAZZ & SWING WITH THE BARCELONA JAZZ ORCHESTRA Local musicians play classic jazz and swing live. 8.30pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.


ESPIRÍTU DE MONTJUÏC A rally for classic car lovers. 8.30am. Starting from the Circuit de Barcelona. From April 18th.

RUPAUL’S DRAG RACE The US drag show comes to Barcelona for the first time. 9pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.


HOLI Join this free festival of colours with music and dancing. 11am-5.30pm. Av. Cardenal Vidal i Barraquer.

ANTONIO OROZCO Spanish pop singer and composer performs as part of the Suite Festival. 8pm. Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.


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Ahead of Sant Jordi, we took a trip to some of Barcelona’s best bookshops to see what the city’s bibliophiles are wearing.

Name: Paloma Gonzalez Age: 41 From: Alicante Her style: The ultimate urban cool.

Name: Edu Jurado Age: 27 From: Barcelona His style: Smart but comfortable – a practical look with an edge.

Name: Adrianna Boho Age: 26 From: Barcelona Her style: Casual chic You can follow Adrianna on Instagram for style updates @adri_boho






New Balance


Rambla de Catalunya 47

Girona 103




Pelai 58





Ethnic Ville


€110 Yerse

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arcelona is a city of perpetual change, but it is also forged from the legacy of its turbulent history. Etched both in the local consciousness and the physical urban fabric of the city, the shadows and scars of the Spanish Civil War are still present today—from the bunkers that overlook the city in Turó de la Rovirá to the shrapnel-marked church façade in Plaça Felip Neri. The district of Sant Andreu was a focal point of conflict during the war. Then a village in its own right, before it was annexed into the conurbation of Barcelona, it was known as Sant Andreu de Palomar. It was a hotbed of different warring factions—anarchists, communists and republicans—and was an area regularly targeted by Fascist forces. Sant Andreu became a focal point for aerial bombardments. General Franco had learnt from the bombing campaigns of Guernica in the Basque country that air raids were an effective way to terrify the local populace. The bombing sorties were flown out of Mallorca for Franco by the Italian Royal Air Force. Such devastating warfare meant that Barcelona quickly became a warren of bunkers and shelters, some of which belonged to wealthy families who had their own private shelters and others which were public. Created by the passive defence board (La Junta de Defensa Pasiva), these public shelters were designed to hold hundreds, sometimes thousands, of people. One such example is the Refugi 307, which consists of 400 metres of tunnels buried under Montjuïc, now open to visitors as part of the Museu d’Història de Barcelona (MUHB). Citizens that were caught out in the open during the raids often took refuge in the metro tunnels or makeshift shelters, although sometimes the use of these shelters proved more dangerous than the bombings themselves.

During October 1937, as bombs fell during a storm, many civilians died when the tunnels flooded or collapsed under heavy rains. There are believed to be more than 1,400 documented bomb shelters in Barcelona, many of which were covered by the city’s expansion during the boom of the Sixties and Seventies, as Barcelona left its dark past behind and looked to a new horizon of prosperity.

Devastating warfare meant that Barcelona quickly became a warren of bunkers, some of which belonged to wealthy families who had their own private shelters.

As a living, breathing city, perpetually under construction, many of these shelters have been found and some of them considered historically important enough to be opened to the public. One such shelter is located in Sant Andreu— Shelter 469. Situated on Carrer de Coroleu 15, the shelter was hidden under the local cultural centre, La Lira. When the building underwent renovations, the bunker was discovered. According to Mariana Iturralde, La Lira’s cultural secretary, “Before the shelter was discovered, it was nothing more than an urban legend talked about by the older generation, who remember taking cover in the shelter. We knew it was somewhere underneath the building but until the renovations began we weren’t sure of its exact location.” Once the renovations began and the shelter was discovered, La Lira contacted the local town hall to investigate the historical significance of the shelter. All known shelters in Barcelona are documented in an ‘atlas of air raid


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“This particular one was a business shelter, created with one entrance and a round stone table, to be able to continue meetings during bombing raids.”

shelters’ (Atlas de los Refugios de la Guerra Civil Española en Barcelona), maintained and updated by the city council. The Sant Andreu shelter forms part of a series of shelters in the same area. A few doors away in the basement of a health clinic, a larger shelter lies abandoned, whilst on Gran de Sant Andreu, the shelter at the famous Café Versailles doubled as an underground card den. Neither of these are open for visitors. Meanwhile on the corner of Carrer de Socrates, the casing of a deactivated bomb still lies encrusted in the building facade above a butcher’s shop. The design of La Lira’s shelter gives an insight into life during this period. “This was not meant for long-term shelter,” explained Mariana Iturralde. “This particular one was a busi-

ness shelter, created with one entrance (they normally have two) and a round stone table, to be able to continue meetings during bombing raids.” Despite the war raging on above ground level, for some it was business as usual. When a shelter is discovered, the city’s archaeological institute (Servei d’Arqueologia de Barcelona) surveys the site and evaluates its historical and cultural value. The MUHB has launched several incentives to ‘converse, legislate, index and catalogue’ the air raid shelters of Barcelona. However there is no law to protect them. Many shelters have been demolished or simply overlooked due to urban planning. Just recently, another documented shelter (shelter 722), this time on Carrer de Burgos in the district of Sants, was uncovered during road works. Local neighbourhood associations have asked for a meeting with the city council to discuss the historical significance of the shelter before it is cemented over. Many residents feel it is important to respect and preserve the historical legacy of the Civil War, and one group has taken it upon themselves to create a database that logs air raid shelters, informing the public of their whereabouts. Barcelona Foradada ( has interactive maps showing the shelter locations, characteristics and materials used to make them, giving people the opportunity to witness these haunting spaces of the past, and remember.

BUNKERS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC Bunkers del Carmel Situated on the Turó de la Rovira hill with 360º views of the city. The area can be reached on bus V17. The bunkers are usually freely accessible to the public but are closed until the end of April for maintenance works. Refugi 307 This shelter has three entrances on Nou de la Rambla. Four hundred metres of tunnels include a toilet, water fountain, infirmary and children’s room. Visits can be arranged through www. Refugio de la Plaça del Diamant (Refugio 232) One of the city’s biggest shelters and one of the best preserved. To book a visit, call 93 219 6134 (from 9.30am to 1.30pm).


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Reservations Our timetable is 1pm to 4pm and 8.30pm to 11.30pm IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR ANYTHING YOU’D LIKE TO TELL US, WRITE TO US AT RESERVAS9REINAS@GMAIL.COM

T. 93 272 4766, Valencia 267 Barcelona

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Walk past the square in front of the MACBA and you’ll see that Barce-


lona’s skating scene is alive and kicking—the area is a magnet to skateboarders from across the globe. And yet, whilst most people are familiar with the city’s skateboarding culture, not everyone is aware of its thriving roller skating community. From rocking and rolling by the beach to inline skating around the city, here’s a quick glance at the different forms of roller skating in Catalunya’s capital.

SkatePhil dancing by the W Hotel

Derby player Drea Dee

The Derby Players For those unfamiliar with roller derby, it is a female contact sport that involves two teams racing speedily around a track. It is known for its aggressive tactics and tough approach, but there are also a lot of rules to abide by. One member of the Barcelona Roller Derby team is Drea Dee, 27 (Derby name: Murder She Rolled). Originally from Canada, she moved to Barcelona six months ago and has fallen in love with her surroundings already. “Barcelona is a skate city”, she said. The Barcelona Roller Derby team train three times a week, but do not get paid as athletes. “We’re a grassroots organisation, we do everything ourselves,” Drea said. “We teach and train each other, we don’t hire trainers”. In order to start playing for Barcelona Roller Derby, you have to pass a minimum skills set. “If you want to learn how to play derby, you can join the Fresh Meat course. After you pass that, you have to pass your minimum skills.”

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The Dancers Founded by Michelle Barrios in 2011, BCN Roller Dance is a social and cultural group that aims to encourage roller dancing, locally and internationally, as both a sport and medium of self-expression. The group meet every Sunday afternoon, either near the Hotel W beach area or along the Badalona beach front (in front of the Pont del Petroli) for its smooth surface. Spinning and shimmying seamlessly to their chosen soundtrack, they are mesmerising to watch and never fail to attract a crowd with their impressive moves. At present, BCN Roller Dance is the principal organisation in Spain promoting roller dance activities and has plenty lined up over the next couple of months. In June, the organisation will be speaking at TEDx Barcelona Women and between September 18th and 20th it will be presenting its first international festival, Skate Love Barcelona. https://www.facebook. com/bcnrollerdance The Night Owls APB is a non-profit organisation that hosts free guided tours through the city’s labyrinthine streets every Friday night. The routes are organised by volunteers known as ‘Stoppers’, who oversee the skaters’ security, keep the group compact and regulate the traffic. Skaters must be able to maintain a minimum speed and control spin, as well as brake correctly, climb and descend curbs, turn, and independently avoid obstacles. In addition to APB’s Friday night adventures, the association also offers a free beginners class on Tuesday evenings, designed for those who are not yet ready to participate in the tours.

The Casual Skaters In addition to the numerous roller skating groups found across the city, there are also countless casual skaters who prefer to roll independently. Alex Boadas, 21, is a student living in Gràcia. An inline skater, he primarily rollerblades as a sport, but sometimes does it as a means of transport. “You can visit many places around the city if you know the right roads; it’s an easy and pretty fast way to get almost anywhere you want,” he said. “Barcelona is a good city to rollerblade in because it has big, smooth cycle paths that run the length of Diagonal, for example”. For those who would like to get into rollerblading, Alex’s top tips are to be patient and careful, always use protective equipment and to not give up at the beginning—“you won’t regret it!”

Casual inline skater Alex Boadas PHOTOS BY YAN PEKAR


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IF YOU’VE ALREADY VISITED ANTONI GAUDÍ’S MOST FAMOUS BARCELONA LANDMARKS, IT’S TIME TO VENTURE A LITTLE FURTHER AFIELD. BY JAY COLLINS ELS JARDINS DE CAN ARTIGAS, LA POBLA DE LILLET In 1905, Gaudí travelled to La Pobla de Lillet in the Catalan pre-Pyrenees to build the Catllaràs chalet, a lodging for the labourers and engineers working at the nearby Asland cement factory, owned by Gaudí’s patron, Eusebi Güell. While there, the architect was invited to stay in the home of textile magnate Joan Artigas. To thank his host for his hospitality, Gaudí transformed the land in front of Artigas’ house into a garden. The result is a magical place in which nature and Gaudí’s signature architectural style blend harmoniously together. Working with the natural elements of the land, Gaudí created an enigmatic garden that is a joy to explore. If you’ve been to Park Güell, this garden will feel familiar, as you follow the winding path through intricate stone arches, over fairytale bridges, past fountains and into a little grotto. Here, however, Gaudí favoured natural stone against the greens of the foliage over the colourful trencadís tiling that features heavily in Park Güell. The gardens stretch across four hectares of land by a river and there are many choice spots, from benches to gazebos, to rest and watch the water rushing by below.

As in many of his works, Gaudí filled the gardens with Christian symbols, including statues depicting the four evangelists that form the shape of the cross. Over time, the gardens fell into disrepair, and by the beginning of the Seventies was all but abandoned. In 1992, they were restored under the supervision of the Reial Càtedra Gaudí and are now owned and managed by the local authority. The gardens are open to the public at the weekend and they are located about an hour and a half by car from Barcelona. TREN DEL CIMENT

Combine a visit to the Jardins de Can Artigas with a journey on this little diesel locomotive. The Tren del Ciment runs on the old ‘cement line’ that once joined the former Asland cement factory in Castellar de n’Hug with Guardiola de Berguedà, from where a narrow-gauge railway left for Berga and Manresa. The line is just 3.5 kilometres long, and has four stations: La Pobla de Lillet, La Pobla Centre, Jardins de Can Artigas and Cement Museum-Castellar de n’Hug.

COLONIA GÜELL In 1890, to escape the social unrest of Barcelona, Eusebi Güell moved his textile mill to Santa Coloma, 23 kilometres to the southwest of the city. To house the mill workers, he created the Colonia Güell, a purpose-built village. This industrial colony was one of many small towns created with the purpose of providing a place for factory and mill workers to live, generally under the eye of the factory owner. However, unlike most of his contemporaries, Güell worked to improve his workers’ conditions, providing terraced houses, a school, shops, gardens and a church. He commissioned the work to some leading

Modernista architects of the time and the result was a spacious village with many beautiful facades and details. Gaudí was commissioned to design the colony’s church. He spent 10 years working on his plans and construction work finally began in 1899. The ambitious project combined aspects of traditional religious architecture with the magic of Gaudí’s creative genius, featuring many stone arches, trencadís mosaic tiling and lots of inspiration from nature. The plans consisted of an upper and lower nave, different towers and a 40-metre high belfry. However, after completion of the lower nave, in 1914, the Güell family decided to stop funding the church, so the original plans remained unfinished. In 1915 the nave was consecrated by the Bishop of Barcelona, and the church became popularly known as the Crypt. Although unfinished, the Crypt integrates many architectural innovations that Gaudí went on to use in other key works. A replica of his model for the Crypt is in the museum at the Sagrada Familia. The mill was sold by the Güell family in 1945 to the Bertrand y Serra family and it finally ceased production in 1973. Over the subsequent years, the mill was sold again, residents in the colony bought their properties and public institutions took over the facilities and land. In 1990, the Colonia Güell was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. In 2000, local architects worked to refurbish many of the village’s buildings and to ‘finish’ the Crypt, and although many people felt that this took away its authenticity, it does make it more visitor-friendly. Besides visiting the Crypt, you can stroll around the streets and squares of the Colonia Güell. If you visit on a Saturday you can also catch the weekly farmers’ market.


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CELLER GÜELL, GARRAF If you’ve ever driven to Sitges on the coastal road then you may well have spotted the eye-catching triangular form of Celler Güell, which sits just below the road. Gaudí was commissioned this winery in 1882 by Eusebi Güell and it was built between 1895 and 1897 under the direction of Gaudí’s assistant, Francesc Berenguer. The estate consists of two buildings—the winery itself and a porter’s lodge—and for a while, Güell produced wine here for the transatlantic shipping company, Companyía Transatlàntica. Production was finally stopped in 1936 due to a lack of commercial success. The winery building is made entirely of stone and is one of Gaudí’s most interesting buildings. The walls follow the slope of the roof gables, creating a triangular front elevation, which is topped by chimneys. The main building is built over three floors and comprises the basement, the watchman’s lodging on the ground floor and, on the top floor, a chapel. The winery is linked by two parabolic bridges to the estate’s original medieval country house. The porter’s lodge is made of bricks and stone and is reminiscent of the buildings that were later constructed by Gaudí’s assistants in the Colonia Güell. The building is now a restaurant that specalises in local and Mediterranean cuisine.

This is a great route for a first foray into the Collserola natural park. It’s very well sign-posted, easy, and has everything you’d hope to find, from lush foliage to quiet mountain paths and stunning views. Take the ferrocarril to Baixador de Vallvidrera. From there, walk along the pretty wooded path that goes up the hill for about ten minutes until you reach the Casa Museu Verdaguer. Here, Catalan writer Jacint Verdaguer died on June 10th, 1902. Follow the white and red signposts that will take you past the Collserola information centre. If you have time, make a stop here to see the exhibitions about the park. Continue along the path until you turn left and head uphill towards Turó del Puig. From there, follow the signs until you come to a steep path which leads to the Canet fountain, a welcome chance to refresh and take a rest. It is said that the water from this fountain is especially good for the liver and stomach. From here, take the path to the left called the Meridià Verd. After a short uphill climb you’ll reach a crossroads. Head in the direction of Coll de Vinyassa, a gentle flat stroll and an opportunity to breathe deeply and enjoy the rich vegetation. After 15 minutes or so you’ll reach another fountain with two benches. From here, it’s just a short walk through thick woodland and you will come out at the Tibidabo amusement park. Take a right turn towards the Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor, a small basilica built between 1915 and 1951 that sits atop the Tibidabo mountain, keeping an eye on the city below. When you’re ready to head back down again, go towards Sir Norman Foster’s Torre de Collserola. 50 metres before the tower there is a path which will take you down towards the Font d’en Canet. From there, just follow the path that you took before and you’ll get back to the Baixador de Vallvidrera ferrocarril stop.


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MORE INFO. Ribera de Sant Pere 17, Castelldefels. Tel. 93 269 4812. Open Tue-Sat 12.30pm-1am, Sun 12.30pm-7pm. €35 for pica-pica, rice and wine. ✪✪✪✪



ark my words, there are changes afoot on the seafront in Castelldefels. I first became aware of this towards the end of last summer when I heard that Pablo Guasch, Xavier Pellicer and Rafa de Valicourt were opening a baby sister for their wildly successful restaurant, Barraca in Barceloneta. They are among the first of Barcelona’s column-inch worthy restaurateurs to dip their toes in this unchartered territory, but I’ll eat tripe—and I promise you I loathe the stuff— if they are the last. For despite Castelldefels’ rather down-at-heel reputation, there’s much to recommend the place. Several kilometres of golden sands for a start, and seafront property that is low-rise enough to not feel overly urban. There’s even the odd cute little villa bravely surviving alongside Seventies apartment blocks and marble-clad new-builds. And it’s one of

If April showers prevail, the interior is no less beguiling in that Southern California way that’s all white-washed brick walls, chunky wooden floors, earthenware pots filled with aromatic herbs and tin buckets trimmed with

I went out for lunch near Barcelona and somehow ended up in California. these that Barracuda has settled in, complete with New England-style clap-boarding and a deck in the dunes—the sort of place you see in magazine shoots but never seem to come across in real life. Perched on top, like a crown, is a crow’s nest dining room that neatly holds a gathering of about 35 diners, just right for a summer party.


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yachting rope serving as wine coolers. It also has Sergi, who is among the most convivial hosts I can think of. As we settled in for the mother of all lunches, he kept shimmying past, cooing with a huge grin on his face, lavishing us with drinks as we dawdled for hours over pica-pica, followed by rice. It would be more


✪✪✪ GOOD

than worth the 20-minute trip down from Barcelona for all this alone, but the food is really good too, solid and soulful. Fans of Barraca will find the menu familiar, though there is the odd local speciality to add meat to the bones. Clams and mussels from nearby Vilanova, the clams cooked in white wine with ungodly amounts of garlic and guindilla peppers, the mussels bathed in lemon and ginger; an uber traditional wild bream, baked whole on a bed of potatoes, onions and tomatoes and a black as night arròs negre with sepia and clams and a bucket of aioli on the side. It probably could have done without the swizzle of parsley oil over the top, which looked like it had landed from the Eighties and seemed somewhat out of place, though I’ll concede the flavour gave a welcome earthiness to the dish. The locally grown, organic salad was, as always at this small but growing group of restaurants, an unapologetically rustic bowl of crisp vegetables and proper salad leaves, so maddeningly elusive in this country. We were there to celebrate a friend’s recently acquired flat back in the city, so he was splashing out on Billecart-Salmon champagne—not crazily priced at €54—but there are plenty of options for under €20, including some interesting natural, biodynamic and organic wines. Walking off the giant orujo as the sun dipped over the sea and turned the beach fire red, I marvelled: I went out for lunch near Barcelona and somehow ended up in California.



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In Catalunya, broad beans have formed part of the local cuisine since ancient times, and this recipe dates back to the mid-19th century. Today it is a very popular dish, normally consumed during the harvest season, which lasts from February until late June. Preparation time: 1 hour Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS 750g broad beans 250g bacon 200g botifarra negra 200g botifarra de perol 2 onions 6 garlic cloves 2 ripe tomatoes 1 glass of white wine 2 bunches of mint 1 teaspoon paprika Olive oil Salt


• • •

Cut the bacon into strips and fry in a little oil. Once cooked, set aside. Slice the two types of botifarra into 1.5cm discs and place them in the same pan. Cook for one minute on each side and remove from the heat. Peel and finely chop the onions. Cut garlic in small slices. Fry both the onions and garlic over a medium heat for approximately 10 minutes, in the same pan used for the botifarras. Roughly chop the tomatoes and mint. Add the broad beans, tomatoes, mint and white wine to the pan. Stir and cover. After about 20 minutes, add the cooked bacon, botifarras and paprika. Season to taste. Cook for five minutes, then turn the heat off and set aside for a couple of minutes. Serve it hot, making sure the botifarras don’t melt.

CHEF’S TIPS • • • •

The cooking time of the beans can vary depending on how tender they are. This dish can also be made with unshelled broad beans, but they should be small and ripe. The tomato is optional. You can also use a little pork chop instead of bacon. Peas can also be added.

Toni Rocamora is the head chef of a big family, and lover of all gastronomy-related sports, such as snail hunting, mushroom collecting and market shopping. Toni was born in Oliana, a small town in the foothills of the Pyrenees, and inherited his passion for cooking from his mother, famous for her family recipes. Visit www. for more traditional Catalan recipes.

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nother place undergoing something of a facelift these days is Poblenou. Not so much the Meatpacking District it aspired to be in the early days, but Williamsberg certainly, with its lofty spaces and wide avenues, not to mention craft breweries like the Edge, avant-garde weekend markets like Palo Alto, and fabulous cocktail bars like Balius, which definitely gives you a slice of New York ambience, while still feeling thoroughly Barcelona. Owned by Rosa Solà and Mike Cruickshank (the good folk who brought us Bar Xix over in Sant Antoni), the venue is an old ironmongers on Carrer Pujades, with the original tiled signage on the front and lots of preserved details, such as the glass-fronted cabinetry behind the bar, which lend a reassuring ‘been-here-along-time-and-not-going-anywhere’ kind of vibe, despite the fact it’s just under a year old. Elsewhere it’s been jazzed up with colourful Moroccan pressed concrete tiles on the floors, low-slung sofas and marble topped tables, as well as the grooviest bathroom in town. The first time I happened by was on a Saturday afternoon when it was rocking to the tune of ‘Burn baby, burn’ and filled with couples holding hands and singles nursing grown-up drinks and a book. I was hooked. So I returned a few nights later and met Cruickshank for dinner and he talked me through the concept a little more. His wife, Solà, is heavily involved in the Catalan division of Slow Food and wanted to revive some of the



As the saying goes in Catalan, ‘Al pot petit hi ha la bona confitura’, meaning ‘big things come in small packages’. I bring this up as every waking moment of the last two months has been consumed with the wines of DOQ Priorat whilst I have been busy preparing the second edition of the Vinologue series. Priorat is a small region with even smaller cellars. In fact, there are single cellars in Penedès that produce more wine than the entire region of Priorat. Nestled amongst the slate and 13thcentury villages, these small cellars produce their small quantities of wine, meticulously cared for to ensure that quality really is more important than quantity. And so, we find these hidden little gems tucked away...

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BALIUS more traditional conservas that were popular 40 odd years ago, while Cruickshank set his sights on moving the vermuteria concept up a notch with a range of vermouth-based cocktails. And their combined efforts have resulted in a place as fresh and exciting as any of the new wave design bars. We sip Reserva de la Luna, a biodynamic vermut made in the Priorat, which has a lovely orangey nuttiness with just a streak of bitterness. It goes perfectly with a paper cone of house-fried crisps and slivers of peix sec made by a Formentera fisherman who dries skate wings in his garden before bottling them to create something quite wonderful between jerky and confit. There is also some excellent cured arenque (herring) from Almeria and bonito (horse mackerel) adobo, based on a technique for pickling shark in Andalusia, but less commonly seen here. We nibble the silkiest slices of mojama (cured tuna) from Barbate and a bacalao potato salad that was inspired by a dish referenced in Don Quixote. Then we move to conserved meat, like velvety lomo de orzo that sees pork loin preserved in spiced fat, and a meltingly tender sobrassada from Menorca. All of it is organic and from small, highly specialised producers with a tale to tell, turning bar snacks into something quite extraordinary. But the best was yet to come in the form of a Boulevardier. Combining bourbon, vermouth and Campari, it is the ultimate, non-cloying after-dinner tipple. So good, I had two. To the protectors of good things, cheers!

MORE INFO. Pujades 196. Tel. 93 315 8650. Open daily 12pm-8.30pm (vermut and non-stop kitchen), 5pm-2.30am (cocktails). €25-30 for several tapas to share and drinks.

Miquel Hudin is originally from California but is now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue enotourism series of wine books ( ESCODA PALLEJÀ – PALET MOST DE FLOR 2013 The owner of this cellar, Pere Escoda, has an incredible knowledge of all things related to the tiny village of Torroja del Priorat. Get him started and he’ll tell you all manner of history and local politics, but he can also make a hell of a wine in his 3,000 bottle-a-year cellar and this new, rustic, more ‘ancestral’ wine is worth a taste. Strong notes of orange peel, lilies, earthy slate, figs, wild bramble, clove, cumin and dark fruits in the nose. The body is big and rustic with hearty tannins. €18

SOLÀ D’ARES - BESSONS 2012 Antoni Sánchez-Ortiz and David Barriche are two seasoned oenologists that have worked at various cellars in Catalunya as well as around the world (Antoni is currently in New Zealand working the harvest) and together they create this line of wines and have another under DO Montsant. Bessons has gotten to be one of my favourites, although with only 1,200 bottles made each year, it’s tricky, albeit worth the trouble, to get your hands on. Dark fruits with notes of plums, figs, lactic, and smooth. Good acidity in the mouth, relatively fresh with good aging notes and a persistent finish. €18

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EN VILLE RESTAURANT4RAVAL Travel through time in one of Barcelona’s most beautiful restaurants. Located in a historic building with vaulted ceilings, En Ville offers a traditional market menu in cosy and warm surroundings. You’ll find a creative blend of Catalan and French cuisines, with a wide range of Spanish tapas, meat and fresh fish on the menu, which is adapted to suit celiacs. On Tuesdays, you can relax to the sounds of live music as you dine. 


€ under 20 | €€ 20-30 | €€€ 30-40 | €€€€ over 40

Doctor Dou 14 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 302 8467 Mon-Sat, from 1pm-Midnight Sun 1pm-4pm

 food&drink visit our online directory Bar




Barcelona´s Belgian beer experience, serving up to 70 ales, lagers, fruity beers and other specials like gueuzes from the beer country for locals, students and expats. Multilingual staff, regular art exhibitions, live music and hip events complete the perfect Belgian bar experience. Also sports on SKY, Belgian German and Dutch tv. Free Wi-Fi and outdoor terrace, private parties possible: ask for conditions and offers at the bar. 


Barcelona’s latest and greatest Japanese restaurant, YOI YOI GION, is a completely authentic udon restaurant from Japan’s ancient capital, Kyoto. YOI YOI GION offers delicious handmade, organic noodles in a modern Japanese atmosphere. Dine at very reasonable prices and enjoy ingredients such as kelp, niboshi (small, dried sardines) and katsuobushi (dried, shaved bonito), which are combined for the stock of the noodles, with no chemical additives. ‘

Diagonal 383 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 124 8701 | Tues-Sat 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm. Closed Sun & Mon

Villarroel 60, 08011 | Metro Urgell, salida Villarroel Tel. 625 814 001 |



This cosy traditional pub has a fantastic range of draft and bottled beers as well as a wide selection of G&Ts. They have large TVs and it’s the perfect place to watch the match with friends. If you study at the UAB join them on Facebook for more info on their regular language intercambio nights. 

The newly opened BlackLab Brewery offers customers a new experience in Barcelona––a place where you can come with friends and family, and enjoy a unique pint of craft beer, made just two metres from where you’re sitting. BlackLab’s food is a culinary journey from China all the way to New York. You’ll find dumplings and bahn mi, mussels fresh from the fish market, ramen, cheesecake, portobello mushrooms, and more. 

Gaudí 81 | Metro Guinardó, Sagrada Familia Tel. 99 348 0157 | |

Bakery NATA LISBOA4EIXAMPLE Heir to one of the most delicious confectionary recipes in the world that spans two centuries, NATA was born to produce and spread the most deliciously sweet tastes from Lisbon to the four corners of the world. Pay them a visit to try their portuguese specialities and their sublime coffee blend. 

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360

Mallora 277 I


Bistronomia BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed. 

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

FULLA D’OSTRA 4 EIXAMPLE Bistronomia Fulla d’Ostra is a restaurant neighbouring the Mercat Galvany. Our Chilean chef, Marcelo Gonzalez, prepares delicious gourmet dishes made with fresh products. The exclusive decorator, Lazaro Rosa Violan, has transformed this small bistro into a charming place, and with the capacity for just eighteen guests, it is both intimate and romantic. 

Amigó 39, 08021 Tel. 93 200 8393


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Indian / Tandoori SURYA 4EIXAMPLE


Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich with colour, smell and exotic flavors. They offer a cosy and relaxed place where you feel at home, where you can drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet, work and try out some of their delicious dishes.

Malgam is located in one of the busiest areas of Barcelona, and offers a varied selection of food, from signature tapas, to traditional, Mediterranean-inspired dishes, all made using seasonal produce. The contemporary-style restaurant is divided into three different spaces, adapting to the different needs that result from its long business hours, covering early breakfasts, lunch, a la carte dinners, and a cocktail bar with a DJ on weekends. 

After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs for their Friday night House Party and Saturday nights Funky New Disco! 

Aribau 113, 08036 Tel. 93 452 3673 Every day 8am-3pm

Pau Claris 92 | Tel. 93 667 8760



If you’re looking for a restaurant in Barcelona with a huge variety of cheap tapas and outdoor terrace, Cervecería 100 Montaditos is the place to go. It’s located in the Rambla del Poblenou, one of the most characteristic neighbourhoods. There are 5 HD TVs with audio all around the bar making this the perfect venue for international football evenings with friends. Choose from tapas and pinchos and a “jarra de cerveza” at just 1.50. Don’t miss their excellent promotions. Monday is ‘half euro’ day with montaditos at 50c. On Wednesdays and Sundays enjoy Euromania and pick anything on the menu for 1. 


Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room that was originally designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that is a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.   Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat, from 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun, from 1pm-4pm, Closed Sun evening.

Rambla del Poblenou 76, 08005 Tel. 93 624 2910 I


Ice Cream LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Cuisine prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients and presented with imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maitre d’: Oscar Fernández.  Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm, Closed Sun evening.

JAMÓN EXPERIENCE 4 BARRI GÒTIC Come and discover everything you’ve ever wanted to know about jamón ibérico. Enjoy an engaging interactive experience with an audiovisual tour in 8 languages that culminates with a tasting of 6 different kinds of jamones (reserve, ibérico, Guijuelo, Extremadura, Valle de los Pedroches and Huelva) hand cut by a master slicer and paired with a glass of cava, wine or beer. A unique experience you’ll treasure forever! Opens every day from 11.30am to 8pm.  Rambla de les Flors 88-94 (in front of Mercat Boquería) Tel. 93 002 8474

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Homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the best products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, boasting exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalized attention.  Ban ys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312

Vegetarian/Vegan ZAATAR(VEGETARIAN)4EIXAMPLE Experience delicious, creative vegan and vegetarian dining with the finest, fresh organic ingredients. Zaatar innovates with locally sourced fusion cuisine. The imaginative and healthy menu is complemented by freshly squeezed juices. They are truly passionate about food while maintaining focus on sustainability and conscious living. Lunch menu under €10.  Paris 200 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 654 926 601 | Mon-Sat 12pm-12am




A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.50.  Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun

GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.  Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm



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Enric Pintado - DENTIST


Implants & teeth in one day

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: See our online directory at

Balmes, 295, 1º 2ª, 08006 T. 93 200 0808


Dr. Enric Pintado is a specialist in implant surgery and fixed prosthetics, trained by the Universities of New York, NY and Loma Linda, California. At Dr. Pintado’s dental surgery, the treatment is personalised especially for you. All-on-4 procedures, flapless surgeries, zygomatic implants for low quantity of bone, without bone grafting and healing time. In all of these procedures, teeth are placed in the same day. Just everything, just Pintado! Dr. Enric Pintado, DDS

Iclinic - DENTIST

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

Perfect teeth in just one day. At iClinic Pifarre. No unnecessary damaging teeth. No killing nerves. No anesthesia and all in one session. Cosmetic dentistry and composite veneers give our clients the lovely smile they always dreamed of. iClinic works only with specialists in cosmetic dentistry who have been trained in the most up to date and cutting edge techniques.

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Muntaner 66, 08011 T. 93 451 8325 Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-8pm

NEW ADDRESS Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: L-5 Salida Rocafort/Rosselló Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005

Dr. Boj - DENTIST Dr. Boj and his team provide specialised, comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry. He became a specialist at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, N.Y., USA. Fast and friendly service in an international environment where we speak English.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994

Orthoestetic - DENTIST The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.

Platinum Provider

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Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5)

Abaden Dental Group - DENTIST Advanced Dentistry in Barcelona. Methodology: A primary distinctive at Abaden is the high value we place on group clinical consultation. During our 28 years of business our dentists across all specialities meet together regularly to collaborate and review patient cases. This group’s clinical case consultation system is a proven method that guarantees accurate patient diagnostics and higher quality service. Procedures: Implantology (single, multiple or full teeth recovery), aesthetics, orthodontics and general dentistry Languages: English, Russian, French and Portuguese.

Abaden Diagonal - Agustina Saragossa 9-11 (08017) Abaden Sants - Marques de Sentmenat 82 (08029) Abaden Vall d’Hebron - Arenys 89-93 (08035) T. 90 064 9162 (Toll-Free for national calls) Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am-7pm

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Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine. Also a member of IAMAT.

NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Jonathan Lane Hooker -

Doctors Barcelona - DOCTOR Is the top medical group in Barcelona. They are committed to provide a first-rate level of care and attention. They are experienced, trained and equipped to diagnose and treat most acute or chronic medical problems and injuries. Available 24 hours including weekends and holidays. A 30 minutes arrival time to your destination is guaranteed. Their convenient visit fee is refundable by most insurance companies. All Specialists and best Hospitals available.

T. 689 327 144




€15 OFF

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Yogashala BCN - YOGA Yogashala BCN in downtown Barcelona is ideal for those who want to practise yoga in a cool, relaxed space. Here you can take a break from daily life to reconnect, breathe, and devote time to your own personal pursuit of happiness. Whether you want to get started or want to deepen your practice, Yogashala can help you on the path you choose. T. 93 518 2627 Girona 38, ppal 2

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year + home delivery service.The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics.

Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its’ high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile.Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan. The first consultation is free.

Therapies Adam - THERAPIST Do you have neck and back pain? Do you suffer from stress? Do you have trouble sleeping? Do you have regular headaches and jaw tension? Are you looking for the right path in your life? We offer different therapies: Craniosacral, Energy Spine Healing, Jatismaran-Regression ® and Stress Relief therapy. Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519

PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.


Av. Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802

The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website.

Av. Diagonal 478, T. 93 416 1270 Open 9am - 10pm

Pilates Las Ramblas


Doina, a UK trained and qualified Physiotherapist offers both physiotherapy sessions treating musculoskeletal ailments and classes in Therapeutic and Wellness Pilates to maintain strength and flexibility for wellbeing and injury prevention.Doina has recently added Nordic Walking to her repertoire. Adding a cardiovascular element; Nordic Walking takes Pilates outside! T. 610 712 947

Tania Spearman - ACUPUNCTURE Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to infertility and more. English, Spanish and German spoken. Call now to make an appointment and start feeling better. Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis M. 644 322 161

English Doctor Dr. Steven Joseph - Doctor General Practice Mental Health MB, MRCGP, MRCPsych.

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care with access to all medical specialties and tests. Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro Les Corts Mon-Sat M. 662 291 191

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Centro Quiropráctico Vida

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -


DENTIST Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is an American Board-certified orthodontist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care

Daryn J.Wiese is an American trained and board certified chiropractor that directs one of the most well known practices in Barcelona-Vida Centro Quiropractico. The practice known for its quality service with a friendly and professional environment having a very high user-satisfaction rate. The care is specific, effective, and comfortable as it shows with practice members ranging from 15 days to 96 years of age. Diputació 168 Tda. 2, 08011 Metro: Urgell (L1) Bus 14, 20, 37, 59 T. 93 451 5301

Heaven - MASSAGE • Ready to feel fantastic for spring? • Time to say ‘Adiós’ to muscular tension and stress? • Interested in organic, 100% fresh, products based on Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, and European herbal ‘pharmacy’? Let American-trained massage therapist Carrie Lewis draw on 15 years of experience and training to soothe you with deep therapeutic massage in conveniently located studios or in your home!


M. 639 533 523

Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

10% OFF

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE The Vital Touch Massage clinic helps you relax, energise, re-balance and improve your health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - Helps relieve tension, reduce stress, detoxify your body and boost your self-esteem. - We also visit offices and events around Barcelona helping stressed executives to relax and re-energise in their working day.

M. 659 995 657

Live the Dream – HEALTH & WELLBEING Look good on the outside, feel good on the inside—let the natural goodness of Forever Living’s organic Aloe Vera work its magic for you. From nutritional drinks, supplements and weight management, to sports performance and anti-ageing, Forever has the product for you. Certified for purity and guaranteed for quality, the products blend elements from Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine with the latest scientific advances. Contact them today to purchase or distribute. An independent distributor of Forever Living Products.


Find everything you need here!

M. 649 052 099

BCN Cuts - BARBER SHOP Directly from Boston to Gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber Shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. With a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. You will keep coming back for the excellent service.

Gran de Gràcia 223 T. 93 611 1813 Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

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To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: See our online directory at

INTEGRA ADVISERS - CONSULTANT Legal and business consulting firm that promotes entrepreneurial activity in Spain. Services include; Accounting, tax, financial advice, immigration, national insurance registration and payroll, legal and real estate advice. Aribau 207, Ppal A1, 08021 T. 93 414 6242 M. 615 405 045 Tessal - LEGAL SERVICES This Legal and business consulting firm offers the value-added services and resources you need to set up and develop your business. Assistance in each stage of legal paperwork and permit procedures, accounting, tax and labour obligations, e-commerce and data protection services to complete the running of your business in Spain. Perú 40-44, Esc. 2 2º A, 08018, T. 93 486 9451

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd -

Sánchez Molina -



Fletcher Consultancy Ltd. now operates in Spain providing tailored training and development services for managers and employees, development and access to UK qualifications for ex-pats, HR services for development of competence based systems. Our UK business services blue chip clients in both public and private sectors. We have special offers for new clients, including free mystery shopping and training needs analysis.

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 M. +44 799 053 4331

Barcelona Women’s Network - BUSINESS Our next events you don´t want to miss: 11th of April: Book and Bake sale, 11pm - 17pm, Casa Orlandai, calle Jaume Piquet 23, Barcelona. 6th of May: Raising Multilingual children: Going beyond the language in the home. For details, check:

Supported charities 2014 - 2016

20% DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS GES40 - ENGLISH SPEAKING LAWYERS They are a law firm established in 1986. They aim to provide comprehensive legal counselling to both individuals and companies, in all areas of law. As a team they are highly specialized in a number of different legal areas, with high levels of training, experience and professional strength. They offer a fully personalised service, providing rapid, effective responses without compromising the quality of their service. They also offer their clients a 24-hour online consultation service. Through this online follow-up service, interested parties can access their virtual office to consult the information in their files anytime and from anywhere. “We devote our efforts to provide full support and assistance to conduct any personal or business activity in Spain with confidence”.

Calàbria 267, 3r 1a, 08029, T. 93 217 6414,

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Mac in Barcelona COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience. Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background. Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience. Cami de Mas Roig a Mas Fuster 47 Valldoreix, 08197, M. 608 994 599

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Mrs.Q design studio -





Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services.Contact Mrs.Q for their competitive business packages which includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. They specialises in bespoke invitations. Visit their Etsy page to see examples for their work MrsQdesignstudio. Designed with love! 10% off now!

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 699 260 938

M. 606 308 932


Gusto Films - FILM

Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. Their professional team provides satellite television from across Europe, including Dutch, French, Italian and Russian, at unbeatable prices. They have solutions for loss of UK channels, with or without a dish. New IPTV is the solution to viewing UK freesat channels, BBC’s, ITV’s, Al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more. Follow them on Facebook/Easisat and Twitter ‘@ PaulDuval15’.

Gustofilms is a production company specialising in promotional film. We dedicate ourselves to the creation and making of high-quality audiovisual content. We like to innovate, discover and imagine. We love style, down to the smallest detail. Nos gusta gustar.

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832


Sant Quinti 47, 4º5ª, 08041 T. 93 007 4408 M. 636 611 029


Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn everything you need to know about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Ask for the special Metropolitan reader offers

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324

Bejar 67, 08014 (Between plaza España and Sants Estació)



HOME IMPROVEMENTS Do you have a cold or noisy flat? High heating bills? Then BCN Windows can help! They can double glaze your traditional wooden windows and doors without changing the way they look. Their unique system offers noise reduction, energy saving comfort and is environmentally friendly. Visit their website for more information; it even shows you how to price your own windows. Call Michael on 619 908 642 and quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free consultation..

M. 619 908 642

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Stop by their driving school to learn about how you can get your Spanish (European) driving license in English and from home! Don’t let time be your excuse. Stop N’ Drive is the first driving school in Barcelona that instructs you through online videos and offers intensive courses lasting only two weeks, between 7.30pm to 10pm. STOP N’ DRIVE Driving school courses are low-cost, so don’t hesitate to get in touch with them and start your journey. Become a driver in Barcelona!

Do you want to build or renovate your office or flat? ARC97 specialise in the design and construction of new works and renovations. They are committed from beginning to end and take care of every detail of each project. They will tailor any project according to your specific needs, style, taste and interests. They guarantee that all work will be completed on time and within budget. Media and Marketing Assistant Jo Elizabeth Hardman M. 610 544 614 Pietat 8 baixos, 08002

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BERLITZ - SCHOOL At Berlitz language school they have a teacher available for you whether you take face-to-face classes or through their virtual classroom with a huge range of courses available for English, French, German, Russian and Spanish. Their amazing online platform has more than 218 specialties which can be adapted to fit your needs. Their one-day business workshops can also add the finishing touch to your professional language needs. 10% discount with this advert. Av. Diagonal 382, 08037 Tel. 93 215 0100 Mon-Fri 8am-09.30pm

Coral - SPANISH TEACHER Reach a Spanish level that best fits your time, interests and needs! Try Coral’s personalised courses using interesting and effective methods that make learning easy. She will come to your home or business and provide the material. All levels; private or small groups (up to 3). 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35. If you need classes via SKYPE, she can also offer online lessons. She is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher.

M. 676 249 744

La Luna Shipping LOGISTICS We offer a complete service to efficiently manage any kind of transport. Anywhere in the world, from a overnight courier service, to an airfreight or seafreight shipment to the other side of the world. We are specialist managing personal effects shipments, small “boxed” removals from Barcelona to Europe, UK, USA, Australia, New Zealand. Don’t look further, LA LUNA shipping is your one stop shop for your transport and logistics needs in Barcelona.

BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programs, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591

BCN Seguros - INSURANCE Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) We offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical! Advice given in Spanish, English and German.

T. 93 220 1715 somos.lalunashipping

M. 636 465 010

Garment Printing - BUSINESS

Spain Accounting-

Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as flyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! Whether you’re a business or an individual, we can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today.

Comte d’Urgell 28 T. 93 393 8194

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TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service Contact David Cook on M.678 702 369

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To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email:

For more shopping visit our online directory MESA BONITA OWN A PIECE OF BARCELONA! Gayarre, 2 Pral, 08014 · T. 627 230 824 · ·


If you’re new to Barcelona and love its architecture or just looking for that perfect gift for your loved ones, Mesa Bonita has the answer: Bénédicte Bodard has been collecting antique hydraulic floor tiles in Barcelona, after cleaning and restoring them, she turns them into really gorgeous tables, frames, trivets and coasters made to order. Many are over 130 years old! Visit her studio in Sants where you can see her huge collection.

Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.



Comte Urgell 28, 08011 · T. 606 53 54 93 · Mon-Fri 11am-7pm

Carrer de Lledó 17 · T. 93 319 9178 ·

Wear the latest trends made in Barcelona with the best ecological fabrics. Now you can be fashionable and respect the planet, you can feel good and unique with limited edition eco fashion that matches your personality. Forget about dressing like everyone else, you are different. Ecoology is ethical, cool and trendy eco-fashion for your everyday lifetime.

New gallery in the heart of the Gothic quarter showcasing oil paintings on canvas and other works of art. High quality paintings starting from just €40 The perfect place to find the perfect painting of Barcelona.



Ciutat 14 · T. 93 601 1830 · · Mon-Sat 10am-8,30pm

Banys Nous 17 ·

OJALA! is the fashion brand by Paloma Del Pozo, hailed as one of today’s most original and creative Spanish designers. Her new Barcelona boutique is located on a charming street in the Gothic quarter, only 50 metres from the Plaça Sant Jaume. Del Pozo designs joyful, colourful and elegant quality garments that will make any women stand out in a crowd.

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.



Sitges 7 · T. 93 676 2311 ·

Located close to Plaça Catalunya, the Artshop has a full range of artist supplies and a small family gallery. If you need a simple watercolour set or any other specialist items, they can be bought or ordered for you at the shop.

Furtivo Skateboarding is an online skateboarding shop with selected products of premium brands, offering hi-end skateboarding products. Pro-Models represent 80 percent of their stock. You can find: Plan B, Flip, Blind, Cliché, Darkstar, Enjoi, Element, BLVD, Toy Machine, Foundation and many more. They deliver world wide in 24 to 48 hours. Register now to take advantage of their offers and promotions.



Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts. Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

Opened in 1978, Kitsch is Spain´s very first sex shop. The shop offers a wide range of toys from quality brands like LELO, Fun Factory, Iroha, Tenga and WeVibe, as well as condoms, books, lingerie, movies and more. The shop also arranges guided tours and talks by psychologists/ sexologists. They have an extensive online shop too.

Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 · T. 93 218 6907 ·

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Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 ·

Muntaner 17-19 (Eixample) L1/L2 (Universitat) · T. 93 453 2052 · Open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm

3/25/15 3:00 PM


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To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS

Sales Manager (B2B) Events & Congresses International Congress group seeks experienced, results producing Sales Manager to direct our European sales team. Company sets up tradeshows and exhibitions for global companies at international events. We sell to our database of global companies.

Job accountabilities include: •Exceeding sales quota. •Recruiting, hiring and training sales staff. •Reporting and other project assigned by management. •Always on the lookout to Increase turnover. Successful candidate must meet the following criteria 5 or more years of sales directorship experience in events, hospitality, marketing, public relations or international business. This is a permanent full time position. Candidate required to have fully functional home office with broadband internet for CRM, voice and video communications. Company provides Telephone, Email and CRM systems. Great team, full training, generous commission/bonus/incentive program. For consideration, please send cover letter, CV and photo to

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to dream about, being a stand-up comedian. Not as a profession, but for fun. The comedy scene was still really small when I discovered it. After my first competition, Barcelona’s Funniest Ficer, I got invited to perform with the group SUCK (Stand-Up Comedy Kills). It was tiny. We regularly performed at the same place, in front of the same people. I began to feel like I was ripping them off, even though it was a free show, because they had to hear the same stuff repeated. I was no longer getting those spontaneous laughs. This year the comedy scene has blown up. We’ve got all these comedians coming out of the woodwork. And I think we owe it to the people of SUCK for never giving up. No matter how bad a show got or how unreceptive audiences were, the group kept going, kept promoting, kept pushing forward. I owe them a lot. I’ve had such a great outlet through them. But now I’m thinking of branching out. I want to do a one-man show. I want to take on that challenge. But then my head starts playing games with me, and I think, “Who wants to hear me for an hour? Who am I?” I want to take a six-month break from all my comedy gigs and just write. I want to start afresh, so that when I do my own show, it’s not like ‘The Greatest Hits of Robert’. It’s something new. I let everything about my life inspire my jokes. My past addiction. Getting old—I’m going to be 45 in a few months. I use relationships and homo identity. Anything works. Anybody’s story can be a joke; it just depends on your delivery. Even being a teacher. Students can provide some hilarious material. Personally, I really like female comedians. Gilda Radner from SNL. Margaret Cho. Whoopi Goldberg. I get a kick out of them. Because there’s less recognition for women in the comedy scene than men, they have to put shit out there, like vulgar stuff. They can’t hold back. I’ve never closed the door on exploring other places, but right now I’m happy here. I’m home. The thing is, Barcelona is so relaxed. Working is not just about making money, whereas that’s the mentality back in the States. The drive to make more and more money that I felt back in LA doesn’t exist for me here. I would die without calçots every year—you know it’s that season again. Oh my gosh. They’re God’s gift to Catalunya. They’re so fun. You have to peel off that sexy, slinky, black-charred dress then suck it up. I just love them. As you can tell, I’m such a foodie. I’m the king of Barcelona on Yelp. If I ate the way I do here in the States—because of the type of processed food they have there—I would be as big as a house. I’m not delgado, but I’m not as fat as I would expect based on my appetite.

By Ben Rowdon


’m from Los Angeles, born and raised, lived there all my life until I moved out here. The first time I came to Barcelona was on vacation; I fell in love. It’s like a miniature LA. The sea and the mountains are here, but all in closer proximity to each other. Prior to my first visit, I had been addicted to drugs and alcohol. That played a part in me saying, “I wanna do something big and different”. I needed to spread my wings. At the time of my trip to Europe, I was one year sober, and I thought “I wanna move out here now!” My sponsor at the time told me, “No. No. No. You sit on your hands for a year, and if after a year you still feel like going, I won’t stop you. I’ll support you”. I might have been acting impulsively so I listened to him, then I was like, “It’s been a year, bitch. Time to go”. And he didn’t bug me. He let me go and have a new life. Now it’s been eight years, which is incredible because I never thought I could do something like this. Prior to getting sober, I never saw life getting better, or richer, or more exciting. I just saw it as one high after another. When I went to rehab, things started to change slowly but surely. I found interesting things to do that I had never thought about before. I mean I never even knew I liked travelling until I got sober. There are so many other highs in life. I’m grateful to be able to experience them now. I was 36 when I moved here, but I believe you’re never too old to start life again. I came here with enough savings to survive on for a year. I originally thought I would work at a rehab, but did you know, there’s not a single inpatient rehab centre in Barcelona. Then I realised there are no taco trucks out here either! But getting a license in the city is impossible so I couldn’t open one if I wanted to. So after sitting on my ass for a year, someone suggested I teach English. My first reactions was, “Ew! Are you serious?” I know how to speak. But teach? Are you kidding? I took a TEFL course anyway, and it turned out that I was really good. I’m a natural performer—I automatically incorporate a lot of comedy into my classes—so I had the chops to be a fun teacher. I let my comedy experience from Los Angeles help to overshadow my lack of grammar knowledge. I mean, I had no idea what a preposition was. Isn’t that the shit you put on your butt when you have hemorrhoids? A clause. That’s the guy that delivers gifts, right? I wasn’t aware that there was an English-speaking comedy scene in the city until about three and a half years ago. I got so excited because that was a major thing I missed from home. I got up on stage for the first time a year before I left, and it was hell. Nobody laughed. My timing was off. I was so nervous. But it became something


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