Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 185

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June 2012 Nยบ 185 Free

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Features 14 20 24

Burlesque in Barcelona


Trying the vegetarian lifestyle Underwater history

Regulars 06 07 08 11 13 19 22 28 58

On our web An inside look What’s new Fact-checker: Eurocopa 2012 Fashion: ‘Dressing the Body’ Interview: Karen Swenson Photo collage: Buildings Ideas: Culture, Gastronomy, Escape the city...


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From the Senior Editor: June once more and as the streets fill with the sound of firecrackers thrown by youths ‘just having a good time’, we have a varied line-up of content for you to enjoy as you head to the beach, rooftop terrace or park. In our features, Zoe Koumbouzi looks at how Barcelona has embraced the neo-burlesque movement, Ina Ghita challenges herself to give up meat for a month despite coming from a committed carnivorous background, and Nick Lloyd tells us how the modern submarine design was thought up by a radical Catalan lawyer. Elsewhere, Lynn Baoiri interviews the US poet Karen Swenson, who has spent her life travelling the world and writing about what she’s seen, while Max Bentley gives us the lowdown on this month’s football European Championships. Musician Tori Sparks gives us her Sónar pick and we talk to the directors of the openair cinema festival Sala Montjuïc, this year celebrating its 10th anniversary. Hannah Pennell

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Art Director Aisling Callinan Sales Director Rainer Hobrack Account Executive Richard Cardwell Financial Manager Andrea Moreno Editorial Assistants Max Bentley and Nicola Reid Sales Assistants George Hawken and Tashoma Lemard Design Assistant Jenneth Alorro Contributors Lynn Baiori, Jonathan Bennett, Roger de Flower, Ina Ghita, Zoe Koumbouzi, Nick Lloyd, Tori Sparks and Tara Stevens Photographers Tashoma Lemard, Richard Owens and Lee Woolcock Cover illustration David Daneman Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office: Ciutat 7 2º 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; Advertising: General enquiries: Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Find your nearest distribution point on

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Unique 80m2 apartment – Eixample

Three-storey 160m2 house – La Bonanova

Elegant 140m2 apartment - Rambla Catalunya

Bright flat in modernist building with mosaic tiled floor and cornice ceilings, living room, kitchen, two bedrooms and bathroom. Unfurnished. Price: €1.400 Ref. L0371ba

Living/dining room opening onto garden, kitchen, three bedrooms with two terraces, two bathrooms, open space area. Unfurnished. Parking. Price: €2.800 Ref. L0367ba

Homely and light filled apartment with living/dining room, eat-in kitchen, three bedrooms and two bathrooms. Furnished. Price: €2.100 Ref.L0358ba

Designer 77m2 apartment – La Barceloneta

Brand new 122m2 design apartment - Borne

385m2 family home – Terramar, Sitges

Completely renovated living/dining room with open plan kitchen, bedroom, bathroom and small terrace. Incredible sea views! Furnished. Price: €1.500 Ref. L0265ba

Renovated to the highest standard, open plan kitchen, living room, dining room, two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Furnished. Price: €1.800 Ref.L0380ba

Two blocks from the Beach, plot of 1.500m2, Living dining room, eat-in kitchen, four bedrooms, three bathrooms and large terrace. Price: €4.500 Ref. V1016ba


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Minimalist house of 260m2 with a plot of 1.300m2. Two bedrooms, solarium and pool. Garage. Capacity 5 people. Fortnightly price: €4.480/August. Ref. L0043CB.

House of 250m2 with a 600m2 plot, three bedrooms. Pool and large terraces. Garage. Capacity 6 people. Fortnightly price: €6.700/August. Ref. L0039CB.

Contemporary Villa of 450m2 with a plot 1.500m2, heated pool, five bedrooms and bathrooms. A/A. Parking for two cars. Capacity 12 people. Fortnightly price: €5.350/August. Ref. L0061CB

Please call for further properties 93 241 30 82

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on our web

© Postals Tretzevents, Figueres

Barcelona for free We have a new guest blogger with us at the moment. Chris Ciolli is a US copywriter, translator and blogger who has just started writing for our website on the topic of ‘Free Barcelona’. We should point out that this is not along the lines of Free Willy but rather is a selection of ideas for things to do about the city that won’t cost you a euro cent. And considering the (latest) current financial meltdown, who can’t do without more freebies?

Make mine a pint Just opened in Travessera de Gràcia is an international beer shop, called, fittingly enough, The Beer Shop. Owner Jorge Blanes (pictured above) wants to try and get locals excited about brands other than Damm and Moritz, and spoke to Andrew Pollen about his labour of love.

Postcards from Barcelona As the name would suggest, the Visiting section on our webpage is aimed at tourists coming to Barcelona, but that doesn’t mean that you residents won’t find something of interest there, too. Take the ‘Postcards from Barcelona’ series, for example. This features short reviews, including pros and cons, of some of the city’s tourist attractions, giving you the chance to check them out on behalf of future friends and families coming to see you; or perhaps, they will encourage you to go and see some of those many places on your personal ‘to do’ list that you simply haven’t got to yet. Unfortunately, one of our more recent reviews was of a pre-lift-incident ‘Mirador del Colom’, which now seems to have been closed down permanently. While the cons of that one pretty much speak for themselves, hopefully you’ll find something else that is (literally) more

CORRECTIONS In the last issue of Metropolitan, we inadvertently misspelled the name of motor-racing driver Emerson Fittipaldi on page 15, and gave the incorrect price information for the performance of Bat Boy, page 28. Both these errors were made during the editorial process, which we regret and apologise for to all concerned.

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AN INSIDE LOOK Illustrator David Daneman

* Confused? Read it carefully...

In 1985, when I was five, I wrote a letter to Steven Spielberg and suggested he make a film about dinosaurs. When I was 11, I went into a comic book shop for the first time. When I was 22, while studying film at university, I was taught to storyboard ideas before shooting them. When I was 25, I graduated from school, but I had no crew, no equipment, no money! My unique style of comic-making was born of these circumstances. My comics are equal parts mime and collage. And, yes, everyone looks like me. Barcelona is an ole crab*. I never miss a double feature at Cinema Urgell. I always avoid pedestrians in the bike lane! A view: from Tibidabo on a clear day. A building: The Arc de Triomf. An inspiration: Dalí and his freedom. A place to go with friends: Parc de la Ciutadella. On my to-do list: A harbour cruise at sunset. About the cover: There are few things I would like more than to play guitar by a campfire on the beach beneath a full moon. A friend told me about the Fogueres de Sant Joan in late June. People build big bonfires of old furniture and, I’ve heard, it is the only night of the year when it is legal to sleep on the beach.

Interested in featuring your photographs or illustrations in our magazine? Email us at

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WHAT’S neW In ToWn


PuDDInG FoR DeSSeRT Bursting with unique personality, the funloving Pudding café has recently opened in the Eixample. The menu has all corners covered: coffee, breakfast, brunch, lunch and afternoon tea. What’s special about this spot is the creativity within its four walls, and the ideas behind the project. In the lounge downstairs, you can browse the internet, play a game on the free-to-use iPads or flick through one of the books lying around. The coffee shop has been designed as a young people’s place—its tagline is ‘1st teen’s coffee place’ (sic)—although they haven’t forgotten families. Every afternoon, they organise a variety of fun activities for children, with the idea that it gives the adults some muchneeded time out in which they can enjoy the menu! No photograph can convey the imagination of this place—you really need to see it to believe it. Pau Claris 90.

Portuguese palate Although it has relocated and redesigned itself, there’s no doubt that the newly-opened A Casa Portuguesa in Eixample will be just as popular as its previous incarnation in Gràcia, which opened in 2006; it was forced to close down over a licensing issue but its overwhelming success led the owners to seek out an alternative venue. The new location has two terraces, a bar and restaurant, and, as you might have guessed, everything you’ll find here is Portuguese. There are over 30 brands on the menu, including wine, cheese, olive oil, sausages and conserves. You can even get your hands on the contemporary Portuguese artwork on the walls, as it’s all for sale. It’s warm, welcoming and all-together inviting. Whether you’re discovering or rediscovering ‘the Portuguese House’, this is a wonderful presentation of our neighbouring nation’s cuisine and culture. Aragó 111.

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It’s a wrap! Around about lunchtime, after a tiring morning of sunbathing on Barceloneta beach (it’s a hard life!), the newly-opened hunger hatch Wrap It will tide you over. The star of the show is the DIY wrap. Mix and match ingredients, then wait patiently as your masterpiece is created right in front of you. For the indecisive ones, who “umm” and “aah” over what fillings to have, you can choose from a selection of ready-prepared wraps, as well as fresh salads and ciabatta sandwiches. This all sounds rather healthy. For those indulgent urges, dig into a homemade cake or muffin with a cuppa. They’ve certainly got a lot of your cravings covered! Sevilla 80.

To be blunt Stop putting it off, gentlemen—it’s about time you had a decent mop chop and a good old shave. Put your shaving foam to one side, and enjoy the relaxing treatment of hot towels, warm foam and refreshing moisturising lotion at the newly-opened BCN Cuts Barber Shop in Gràcia. It’s hard to imagine feeling at ease when someone is skilfully trimming your beard with a sharp blade. But (thankfully) we’re not living in the Sweeney Todd musical. Just leave it to the professionals, who can offer you advice on your look, along with a complimentary drink. And all while jazz music plays in the background... Gran de Gràcia 223.

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- The idea for a European knockout tournament was first conceived by the French Football Federation’s Henri Delaunay in 1927. - The first edition began in 1958 when 17 countries entered a qualifying campaign. Only four teams contested the finals two years later, which were won by the Soviet Union when they defeated Yugoslavia 2-1 in Paris. - The tournament was originally named the European Nations’ Cup but it was changed to the UEFA European Championships in 1968. - The trophy is named ‘The Henri Delaunay Cup’ in honour of its pioneer. - Euro 2012 marks the 14th edition of the tournament, of which there have been nine different victors.

12,000,000 the number of ticket applications received for the 1.4 million tickets available for this summer’s tournament in Poland and Ukraine, starting June 8th.

spanish achievements - Spain withdrew from the inaugural tournament in 1960 when Francisco Franco refused to travel to the USSR, whose government had supported the Second Spanish Republic against his rebels in the Civil War. Spain had beaten Poland 7-2 on aggregate in the first round. - However, Franco allowed Spain to play against the Soviets in the 1964 European Nations’ Cup Final, which Spain hosted and won with a 2-1 victory, inspired by midfielder Luis Suárez, a key member of the great Fifties’ Barcelona side. Suárez later became Spanish national manager for the 1990 World Cup. - Spain suffered heartbreak at the 1984 finals in France, when they were defeated by the hosts 2-0 in the final. Current UEFA president Michel Platini scored nine goals in that competition, making him the highest-scoring player in the history of the tournament, despite only taking part in that one edition. - ‘La Furia Roja’ are the current holders of the Eurocopa title, after Fernando Torres’s goal defeated Germany 1-0 in the 2008 final. Barcelona striker David Villa was the top scorer that year with four goals. - Spain are the fourth most successful nation in the history of the tournament, having amassed 48 points from 30 games (13 wins, 9 draws and 8 defeats) over eight campaigns.

Images © Panini Group and UEFA


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the number of matches that the Spanish national side have gone unbeaten in the UEFA European Championships since a 2-0 defeat to Sweden in a qualifying match on October 7th, 2006.


- According to the latest world standings, co-hosts Poland and Ukraine are the lowest-ranked nations in the competition, at no.65 and no.50 respectvely. - Vicente Del Bosque’s Spanish side are bidding to become the first country to retain the European crown. - The 31 matches will be played in eight cities: Warsaw, Wroclaw, Gdansk and Poznan in Poland; Kiev, Donetsk, Kharkiv and Lviv in Ukraine. - This will be the last edition of the tournament to have a 16-team format. In France 2016, the finals of the competition will be contested by 24 teams.

SPAIN’S GROUP C FIXTURES Sunday 10th June - Spain vs Italy Thursday 14th June - Spain vs Ireland Monday 18th June - Spain vs Croatia You can follow coverage of the 2012 UEFA European Championships at

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Images courtesy DHUB Barcelona

Nicola Reid visited the permanent exhibition ‘Dressing the Body’ at the Museu Tèxtil i d’Indumentària, which invites visitors to observe the manipulation of our outer appearances and see, from five centuries’ worth of historical examples, the absurdity of being a slave to the body and fashion.

Nowadays, we call them fashion victims. Those people who perhaps pay a little too much attention to what’s on the catwalks. You mean you don’t have a pair of this season’s on-trend platform wedges? Shame on you! However, let’s pay heed to the words of Charles Dickens that are inscribed on the walls of the exhibition ‘Dressing the Body’: “But fashions are like human beings. They come in, nobody knows when, why, or how; and then they go out, nobody knows when, why, or how. Everything is like life, in my opinion, if you look at it in that point of view.” Indeed, we’re all aware that fashion is forever changing and what are currently on-trend silhouettes will disappear and reappear. Those platform wedges you had your eyes on are simply recreations of the Spanish tapines women wore in the 16th century. See for yourself, as these cork-soled platform shoes made of leather, velvet and silk ribbons are on display at the Museu Tèxtil. Similarly, you’ll realise how contemporary Christian Dior designs mirror the fashionable tightened bust and cinched waist of the 16th to 19th centuries. ‘Dressing the Body’ also draws parallels between the morphology of the human body, socio-cultural events and historical styles. The fashions of different periods had much to do with contemporaneous moral, social and aesthetic codes. The idea is that if you dress in a particular way, you are making a statement about current times. Take the hippies of the Sixties. They were carefree and so, by breaking the conventions of established fashions, they expressed their desire to live a more relaxed, natural and enjoyable life. Interestingly, considering the show’s message about cyclical fashions, the long floating outfits of the era seen covering the mannequins here were inspired by the Romans. Only this time round, floral prints and peace signs adorned the dresses. The central concept of the exhibition is the way in which people change their body proportions through dress; increasing, reducing, lengthening, defining and revealing certain aspects of their body through the clothes they wear. Today, we’re all asking ourselves,

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“Does my bum look big in this?” when we try on a pair of jeans, but back in the 16th century, women went to great lengths to widen their figures with hooped petticoats and bustles. At the same time, they were obsessed with tiny waists, cinching them in the most painful way, deforming the body’s natural shape with corsets and bodices. Thus, in order to achieve the most desirable body image, people endured immobility and discomfort. Ever heard the phrase ‘beauty is pain’? I’m sure this is where it comes from. No wonder corsets became illegal in the 18th century! Alas, they were sorely missed and the 19th century welcomed their less-restrictive redesign. From immobile ‘princes’ (as the exhibition refers to the gentlemen and courtesans of the 16th century) to the less encumbered body of today, then. We opt out of the overly-tight jeans, a dress with scratchy sequins or a coat with too many buttons, in order to be comfortable. But it’s not so simple. While Coco Chanel is undoubtedly one of the most famous international designers of modern times, the pieces she created were based on the simplified image of a thin, androgynous woman, who wore trousers and comfortable clothes made of jersey. And so it was born, the obsession with women being ‘slim’. Cue the gym memberships, cosmetics, plastic surgery and eating disorders. Finally, we begin to question the clothed body of Western culture. The words of Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto are somewhat disturbing: “When I see how important the body has become, the triumph of cosmetics and plastic surgery, I wonder if clothes are still necessary.” It’s an important question, since now we have the accessibility to sculpt our bodies as we wish rather than relying on clothes to deceive others about our shape. For now, though, let’s feel fine about ourselves, referring once more to Charles Darwin: “It is certainly not true that there is…any universal standard of beauty with respect to the human body.” ‘Dressing the Body’ is located at Palau de Pedralbes, Avinguda Diagonal 686 and is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 6pm.€3

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Stripped In Barcelona, the neo-burlesque movement is thriving. By Zoe Koumbouzi.


hile burlesque has been revived for some time in the UK and US, it is a relatively new scene here...or is it? Though the actual word ‘burlesque’ has only appeared in the city in the last few years, Barcelona has a long history of subversive, artistic and erotic genres, meaning that, in many ways, burlesque is very familiar here and fits right into city life. The word ‘burlesque’ comes from the Italian burla, meaning a joke or a mockery, and original burlesque performances had something of the ridiculous about them, parodying the politics of the times. While burlesque went out of style towards the end of the 19th century in the UK, it flourished in the US and made its transition to a much more erotic art form. After attaining phenomenal success, and catapulting many of its strippers to stardom, it began to decline after Prohibition and by the Seventies had become a seedy and underground rarity. In the mid-Nineties, neo-burlesque was invented in the US, the scene revived, and the rest is history. While at the end of the day, a burlesque act is stripping (down

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to nipple-covering ‘pasties’ and a G-string), it is now anything but seedy. There is an air of female sensuality and power rather than degradation, and the crowd tends to be appreciative rather than leering. The acts are edgy, avant-garde, often funny and, of course, very erotic. Style influences range greatly, from Twenties’ flappers to Fifties’ pin-ups or rock ‘n’ rollers, often combined with a modern edge; so you could see anything from a Marilyn Monroe-lookalike with tattooed biceps to a fire-breathing flapper. Many of today’s body-size stereotypes are also broken down in the burlesque scene, where people have cottoned on to the fact that skinny isn’t necessarily the most sexy look. Here in Barcelona, the best place to see good examples of this genre are at the monthly Taboo nights at Sala Apolo. The show celebrated its third anniversary in April and has gained international fame for its unusual mix of quality burlesque acts plus the live band Mambo Jambo, which features Eighties’ rocker Dani Nel·lo among others. The Apolo makes the perfect venue with its lavish curtains, balcony and cosily-lit private tables, while the crowd is of all ages and types with more than a few regulars. The show is presented by the large and sexy Madam Taboo, definitely

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back challenging the notion that larger women can’t carry off a corset. Between songs and chat from Madam Taboo (note: don’t sit at the front if you are shy!), you get to see national and international acts such as Kitty Bang Bang, Miss Polly Rae and Vinila Von Bismark, Spain’s most famous burlesque artist. Acts are as varied as they are exciting: glitter, bubbles, cream, fire and even the odd snake are all possibilities. Carlos Conesa of Taboo describes the night as, “Funny, visual, erotic and elegant. What makes us unique is the addition of the live band, which really lends a lively atmosphere.” Another show currently running in Barcelona is Live in Burlesque, to be found at El Molino—also the location for last month’s Second Barcelona Festival of Burlesque—and there couldn’t be a more fitting venue for a show of this type. Opened in 1898 and originally called La Pajarera, the theatre-café was re-named ‘El Petit Moulin Rouge’ in 1908, when it began showcasing a Spanish version of what was to be found in Paris at that time: cabaret, striptease and music hall. The venue lived through many years of splendour and success, being revamped and redesigned according to the whims of Modernistes and other architects, always serving

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Taboo at Sala Apolo. Photo by Xavi Calzada

as a Barcelona reference for alternative and edgy nightlife, and was the making of many stars such as Bella Dorita and Merche Mistral. In 1976, it was awarded the first FAD Sebastià Gasch award for having a “unique approach” in the theatre scene. Today, following closure from 1997 to 2010, El Molino has undergone yet another facelift, leaving it decidedly modern but still intimate, and showcasing a variety-style cabaret show, presented by Merche Mistral herself. The show includes live singing, high-energy dancing, burlesque acts and acrobatics, and while it’s not really neoburlesque, it could easily be described as a Spanish version of burlesque, complete with bawdy jokes and Benny Hill-style slapstick. Barcelona, of course, has many underground scenes, mostly inappropriate to these pages, but there is one other club that treads the line between and that is the Cabaret Berlin. Formerly infamous strip club Bailen 22, followed by a stint when it was called Lotus, the club is now firmly on the right side of the law and hosts grown-up cabaret nights using all the equipment left over from its seedy past, poles and swings included. When it’s not in one of its periods of being temporarily shut down, the club’s shows include music, live acts and corseted waitresses.


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A Bibian Blue creation


If you prefer to join in the action rather than be a simple spectator, there are a number of different burlesque classes taking place in the city. The most authentic of the lot is to be found at Tribalona, where dance teachers Eva Tallada and Noemí Castell hold weekly burlesque dance classes as well as one-off workshops where you can learn to look and move like a Fifties’ pin-up. “The classes are getting more and more popular,” said Tallada. “They come in shy but the music helps them to open up and relax, as does imagining being someone like Marilyn Monroe. The classes really help to get rid of insecurities and negative image complexes. Many women have forgotten how to express their feminine sensuality; we try to recover this.” Costume is key in setting the scene for burlesque acts, and home-grown Barcelona corset designer Bibian Blue sits firmly on the top of the style pile in this case. The kicking off of the burlesque scene here could even be attributed to her and her pals the Chilli Cats duo a few years back, when they set up a series of events named Nights in Burlesque. “We put it all on to show off the then collection, which was based on the total burlesque look, with specially-made costumes, photoshoots, a show and press re-

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leases,” explained Blue. “The recent collections are not as pin-up as back then, more futuristic, but I still deal only with corsets, either directly on sale or hand-made for special events like weddings or shows.” Blue’s beautiful collections do not suit all pockets, with prices ranging from €140 to €1,200, so if you are in search of basic burlesque kits, the internet is probably still the best bet. While the neo-burlesque scene may be experiencing a plateau in other countries, here it is very much still growing, making it fresh and exciting, a place where international artists want to work and collaborate. As with most things Barcelona, burlesque has been taken in, shaken up and served up nicely with a liberal dose of originality and style.

More info: Taboo at Sala Apolo: El Molino: Cabaret Berlin: Tribalona: Bibian Blue:

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Karen Swenson Poet, journalist and human rights advocate, US American poet Karen Swenson is originally from New York but has spent much of her life travelling the world as a journalist, educator and human rights advocate. She has written for The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal and had her poetry published by The New Yorker, Saturday Review and numerous literary magazines in the US and the UK. Her poetry work includes the collection The Landlady in Bangkok, winner of The National Poetry Series. She has recently set up home in Barcelona.

I think I’m a very East Coast sort of person. Before I came here to live, I had travelled in Europe. My husband and I drove through Spain in 1960—the only bright spot which I can remember is Barcelona. I was astonished by the architecture. Barcelona was not a cheerful place in 1960 but how beautiful it was. Europe was very comfortable, a little bit like grandmother’s house. I began to realise that I was looking for something that wasn’t familiar. Around 1974, a friend got a Fulbright to Iran and I thought, I’m going to get two tickets for my son and myself and go to Iran. If you like desert, and I tend to like desert, Iran is just a gorgeous place with beautiful mosques. I went alone to Bangkok. As cultures go, in this world there is no better place for a single woman to travel alone than Thailand. Because it’s Buddhist, it’s a ‘no touch’ culture. People are very polite but they’re also warm and full of smiles and interested in who you are. You hit the occasional grumpy Thai, but not often. To an American in the Seventies and Eighties, Lonely

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Planet was a revelation. I discovered that there were these things called guest houses. I moved out of the hotel [in Bangkok] and into the guest house which was run by a woman who is the focus of one of the poems in one of my books, The Landlady in Bangkok. I made friends with this woman and I kept going back there. When I went to Burma, it affected me very strongly…in the atmosphere of people knowing that their government was out to get them, that I had seen here in Spain for the first time when I was 24. My feeling is that Burma is now slowly changing. It isn’t going to happen as quickly as it happened here. When I first started writing about Asia, I didn’t want to presume. I didn’t want to do that colonialist thing where I entered the head of someone whose thinking process I had no idea about. That is important to me because that means that I’m much less likely to misrepresent something. I’ve been a member of PEN it seems to me for most of my life. PEN is an organisation against censorship and the persecution of writers. I went to PEN and said, “I’m going to Indonesia, is there anything I can do for you?” And they said, “We’re missing somebody. He’s a novelist, his name is Pramoedya Ananta Toer. He’s supposed to be living in Jakarta but we don’t know where and we can’t find him.” I got to Pramoedya’s house and there was a soldier standing outside because he was under house arrest. One of the things he said that made me very glad was, “I didn’t think anybody knew about me”. He had spent 18 years on the island of Buru as a prisoner. That was the first time that I tried to do anything with people who were prisoners of conscience. I’ve done lots of work with people in Burma. I’ve written letters for Daw Aung San Suu Kyi for 18 years while she was in prison [and under] house arrest. This past summer I met her, which was an enormous thrill. I went into Cambodia and found that, I think, all but two writers in Cambodia had been killed in Pol Pot’s time. It seemed to me that no one hadn’t seen a relative killed in front of them. When you come out of a nice, peaceful American background, this stuff is on the other side of the Grand Canyon emotionally. Part of what’s going on right now in the US is that people feel they’ve lost stability; they don’t express it that way but there’s a sense of “what’s it gonna be tomorrow?” There’s a lack of continuity. Human beings like continuity; it makes you feel anchored. What I liked about Barcelona was that there is culture. You give poetry readings and people come. People go to art galleries and are interested in art and they hang art in their homes. And the love of music is so strong here. It’s alive, it’s not dead, and that seems to me enormously important because art isn’t something that you keep in a box. It should be something that’s alive and moving in the culture. And I needed a city where I was going to look at the sea. I write, I go to the gym, I go to the opera, and there’s still things I haven’t done in Barcelona that I’m ashamed I haven’t gotten to them yet, but I will. In some ways, it’s a very similar life to what I lived in New York but without the hassle. Interview by Lynn Baiori. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

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Change your ways


oday is my last day as a vegetarian. I didn’t decide I can’t live without a medium rare steak on my plate nor was it something that my doctor prescribed. I changed neither religions nor countries nor boyfriends. Most carnivores think vegetarians and vegans are missing out on a lot of foods and flavours, but what if it’s really the other way around? Finding the answer to that question is how I became a vegetarian for 30 days. To see if I was missing something by not being vegetarian, to explore new food and my own food-related needs. I am Romanian and my great-grandmother was Greek. I come from a family in which the richest dishes, the most soughtafter and talked-about, are meat based. My grandfather was a hobby hunter and a proud carnivore, while my grandmother knew how to cook the best hare stew in the entire village. My other grandfather cured the smokiest mutton pastrami, a dish that still makes people talk in the small village where he was born. At Easter, we always eat lamb roast, a meat pie made of lamb heart, liver and lungs (drob) and hard-boiled eggs. At Christmas we have minced-meat rolls cocooned in cabbage (sarmale), home-made sausages and steak. You could say I am, by tradition and by culture, truly carnivore. How was I to survive a full month of meat fasting? I was both excited and terrified. The first time I actually started to understand those people who have decided to say “no” (forever) to pepper-covered fuet, pungent salami, crumbly moussaka, gourmet

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hamburgers and maple-syrup-and-sageinfused duck, was when I met and then became friends with Jim. Jim never chose to be vegetarian, he was raised one. He is so immersed in the meatfree lifestyle that when he sees a few beer sausages on a plate, he takes a bite, chews it for a few times and slowly asks: “This is soybean, right?” When you tell him it isn’t, he doesn’t just spit it out in the first 10 seconds; he chews two more times, as though he’s trying to give meat a chance. In the end, though, it is his vegetarian side that always wins out. He would never order meat in a restaurant or think of buying it at the supermarket; it’s just not one of his options, although if you’re friends with him, he might make a small sacrifice for you, such as eating sushi. One morning in my first week of vegetarianism, I bought a fuet sandwich. As I was enjoying its crunchy and greasy texture, my friend Maria, who knew about the experiment, asked me what being a new-found vegetarian was like. I said it was going great, I didn’t miss meat at all. I had completely forgotten the (simple) rule of being a vegetarian: no meat. ie. no fuet. A few days later, I went to one of my favourite restaurants where they had nothing vegetarian on the menu. I ate a sandwich while my lunch mate was having the delicious curry couscous I knew so well. I felt somehow embarrassed to create such a fuss. Another day, a friend of mine cooked chicken soup; she made a ‘vegetarian’ chicken soup and a carnivore chicken soup. The vegetarian soup was exactly the same as the carnivore version (they were made in

Devoted carnivore Ina Ghita tries the meatfree lifestyle in a city not renowned for being vegetarian-friendly. the same pot), the only difference being that the chicken pieces were simply extracted from the meat-free version. I ate the ‘vegetarian’ soup, but I knew no true vegetarian would eat it. Similarly, a true vegetarian wouldn’t just carefully remove the sweet and sour pork pieces in his or her Chinese food, as I did one night when my friends ordered for me before I got to the restaurant we were having dinner in. It wasn’t like this all the time, though. Little by little my friends and I got used to my vegetarianism. A friend actually tried the same experiment: he wanted to challenge his hedonistic taste buds, see if he could resist meat. He lasted for almost three weeks before he confessed to having sinned with crispy bacon. I told him I had also had sinful thoughts about chocolate and the skewered chicken made in the polleria just a street below my house. The days passed quickly and before I knew it, the end of my experiment was approaching. Since I felt that I hadn’t missed meat that much, in my last week I decided to become a vegan. Two minutes later I stumbled on a blog post about Belgian chocolate. It was too late to back out but I was afraid this would be much more difficult than the vegetarian experiment. It was a whole new thing. I couldn’t eat at my favourite restaurants anymore; I had to ask millions of questions about everything on the menu. At the supermarket, I had to read the labels, something I almost never do (there are some scary things in our food, let me tell you). I cursed the ‘traces of milk’ in dark chocolate and other things that looked vegan.

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Restaurants with vegetarian and vegan options in Barcelona centre El Refugi, Passatge de la Pau A small place where the owners only cook one or two dishes a day, the food is cheap —around €7 for one dish and a drink—and it tastes like something your friends would cook for you. If you don’t like what they’ve cooked for the day, try the grilled goat cheese and honey sandwich. La Fonda, Pasaje de los Escudellers 1 Always crowded at night, it’s quite empty at lunchtime (if you get there at 2pm sharp) and much cheaper (around €10 for a lunch menú, instead of a €8-9 per dish at night). La Fonda always has two or three vegetarian options on the menu and, if you eat fish, there is always at least one fish dish you can try. Maritime Museum restaurant, Drassanes You’ll find the restaurant in the small garden of the museum. The lunch menu costs around €10 and it’s a good place for fresh fish. There are days on which they don’t have anything vegetarian on the menu, though. Guixot, Calle Riereta 7 Close to Rambla del Raval, Guixot is one of my favourite restaurants in Barcelona. It has plenty of delicious vegetarian options every day. A two-course menú costs around €10; you can have a vegetarian crêpe, one of their big and inventive salads, soup, parmesan aubergine and many other options, depending on the season and what you like to eat.

Photo of Ina Ghita by Richard Owens

On my first vegan shopping day, I bought so much fruit and vegetables that I barely managed to carry it all home. I baked bread and made a big batch of hummus and mushroom pâté, which I ate for the following day and a half. It was horrid. Soon, however, I started to wise up. I realised I could have tomato bread with olive oil and coffee with soy milk. I could have salads and mix them with nuts, cereals or legumes. My boyfriend invented a splendid dish with soy milk bechamel, almonds and minced vegetables, all baked inside a yellow pepper. I learned I could make delicious vegan lasagnas and even cakes. I was having a lot of fun. The last day of my project, maybe to pre-

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pare myself for re-introducing meat in my diet, I went to the vegan restaurant Gopal, a place where the daily menu includes delicious ‘hamburgers’, and rather unconvincing ‘chicken’ nuggets, chorizos and sausages, all made of creative mixes of legumes and spices. It’s vegan but might fool many carnivores. To sum up, I realise I am a fake vegetarian and an untalented vegan. At first, I had no idea what to buy or cook; my brain was set on meat, cheese, milk and eggs. But it got better. It got deliciously better as I learned to explore my food options. I may be back to being a carnivore for now, but I feel as though my exploration of vegetarian and vegan food has only just started.

Maharajah, Rambla del Raval 14 Most Indian restaurants have a vegetarian option. Maharajah has a vegetarian menu option for €8 and a carnivore one for a little over €9. Africa Tamarane, Calle Riereta 26 This newly-opened African restaurant has delicious vegetarian and carnivore options for the same €9 lunch menu. Don’t go there where you’re in a hurry, though, and expect your food to arrive half an hour after ordering it.

Are you a vegetarian or vegan living in Barcelona? How easy do you find it to eat out here? Do you have any other restaurant recommendations? Tell us online at www.

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Thanks to all of you who sent in photos for this subject, obviously a rich source of ideas in Barcelona—see more submitted images online at: The theme for the coming month is: FAMILY. Send your photos to by June 18th. Find all the practical info at:

Overlooking Plaça Francesc Macià—by Alina Zugulova

Natural Sciences Museum (previously the Zoology Museum)—by Kate Busby

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L’hivernacle in Parc Ciutadella—by David Harris

On a street close to Carrer Ferran—by Andrzej Witek

Reflection—by Julie Ham

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The Sagrada Família—by Matt Phillis

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Replica of Ictíneo I at the Museu Marítim de Barcelona. Photos by Tashoma Lemard.

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Exploring the depths The modern submarine was created by a Catalan socialist. By Nick Lloyd.


n a splendid summer’s day, on June 28th, 1859, a group of men and women watched as a strange-looking vessel slid into the waters of Barcelona harbour. After a few minutes chugging around, it slipped under the sea in a flurry of bubbles and disappeared. The spectators looked on in silence, each consumed by thoughts of the fate of the crew members. Twenty minutes later, the bubbles returned and the vessel emerged from the port’s green and muddy water. Ictíneo I, the world’s first fully-operational submarine, had been launched. Its inventor was Narcís Monturiol i Estarriol, a Catalan self-taught engineer and radical thinker, who dared to dream that his machine could help save humanity. Narcís Monturiol was born in Figueres to a family of barrel-makers. Perhaps in some way he was influenced in his creation of the modern submarine by those containers used to store liquid without any leaking out, though he would of course aim for the contrary effect. After finishing a degree in law, Monturiol moved to Barcelona where revolutionaries had begun to challenge the more hellish aspects of industrialisation, which was spreading across Raval, Sants and Poblenou. In the rapidly changing city, he took to publishing socialist literature, upholding equal rights for women and founding La Fraternidad, the first communist newspaper in Spain, which was heavily influenced by the French utopian communist, Étienne Cabet. The utopian communists lacked the historical critique of Marx, and believed they could create utopian societies here and now. Cabet’s

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version was an earthly paradise called Icaria over which he would rule as a benevolent dictator, until true communism could be established. Cabet’s ideas became popular in France, and spread to Catalunya, where a circle developed around Monturiol and La Fraternidad that managed to raise enough money to send three Catalan adherents to ‘Icaria’, which, Cabet had now announced, would take earthly form in Texas. Thousands of Icarians were said to be enlisting to travel to the promised land, an early wave of pioneers that would later sweep across all of humanity. In the end, however, just Cabet and 69 followers docked in New Orleans in 1848, where they set off for the land the great leader had bought from a property shark. It turned out to be a mosquito-infested swamp teeming with alligators, where surprisingly few of their neighbours in America’s wild lands seemed to believe in universal brotherhood. The project was an abject failure and Cabet died of heartbreak shortly after. Oddly enough, it was only in Barcelona that fragments of Icaria survived, in the radical imagination of the city. Monturiol and many of his followers settled in what is today Poblenou. Unaware of the ruinous farce that had befallen their dream, they called the neighbourhood Icaria. The only remnant of it today is Avinguda Icària, which crosses the neighbourhood, though 140 years later the city council ridiculously also named the Olympic Village, Nova Icària. Being made up of apartments for the wealthy, it was neither utopian nor had much in common with a failed 19thcentury Texas swamp settlement. But perhaps the biggest Icarian influence on Barcelona was

The submarine would guide humanity on its voyage to Utopia


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Monturiol’s friend Ildefons Cerdà, the great civil engineer, whose remarkable project for the Eixample, while not revolutionary in a political sense, seems to have drawn direct inspiration from Cabet’s ideas, with its ideal blocks of housing forming a new classless city. Lacking any public control over its development, however, the Eixample would also become a perfect example of the failure of the utopian socialists as Cerdà’s visionary idea of a green, egalitarian city was soon completely corrupted by speculative builders. In 1848, with the spectre of a real communist revolution sweeping across Europe, the Spanish government did not take kindly to Monturiol’s ideas and banned his publications. Undeterred, he instead set about inventing things, passionately believing in human improvement through technology. During a stay in Cadaqués, he watched coral divers risking their lives to bring red coral to the surface; while this coral is protected today in Catalunya, it was a valuable commodity in the 19th century, when it was used in jewellery and as a crimson pigment. Monturiol saved one diver who appeared to have drowned and later, from the safety of the headland, watched other divers at work and imagined a machine that would render their labour safe. This machine would serve, as Monturiol put it, “as a prototype for efforts to improve the conditions of the landlocked workers of the world.” Somehow, through this “liberational technology”—in the words of Matthew Stewart, author of the excellent Monturiol’s Dream: The Extraordinary Story of the Submarine Inventor Who Wanted to Save the World (Pantheon, 2004)—workers repressed on land would find a new reign underwater free from tyranny, where they would harvest coral and fish, and help to advance democracy and scientific knowledge. The submarine would guide humanity on its voyage to Utopia, yielding the ocean’s bounty to the common man. Robert Hughes, in his seminal Barcelona, comments that Jules Verne may well have been directly inspired by Monturiol when he thought up the character of Captain Nemo in Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea (1870), though, unlike the mild-mannered Catalan, Nemo becomes a fanatic. After several years raising capital, studying earlier submarines, and improving their designs, Ictíneo I (from the Greek for ‘fish-ship’) was born. It was far superior to any other underwater machine around at the time. Its double hull, the first in history, was formed by olive staves clad in copper, reminiscent perhaps of his father’s barrels. It could dive to a depth of 20 metres, but six men were needed aboard to hand-power the machine, a major drawback. However, with no formal training in engineering, Monturiol had managed to overcome a series of complex problems (propulsion, buoyancy, stability, pressure, life support and vision underwater). It was a tremendous achievement. After the publicity surrounding the maiden voyage, watching the Ictíneo’s further test dives in Barcelona’s harbour became a common pastime throughout the summer of 1859. Monturiol described the underwater experience in none-too-enticing words: The silence that accompanies the dives; the gradual absence of sunlight; the great mass of water, which sight pierces with difficulty; the pallor that light gives to the faces; the lessening movement in the Ictíneo; the fish that pass before the portholes—all this contributes to the excitement of the imaginative faculties. . .there are times when nothing can be seen outside by natural light, when one sees nothing but the obscurity of the deep; all noise and movement stops; it seems as though nature is dead, and the Ictíneo is a tomb. Ictíneo I was badly damaged in the harbour after being accidentally rammed by a freighter and had to be scrapped, but Monturiol used the opportunity to build a new and better machine. Ictíneo II, launched in 1864, was a huge improvement. It was powered by steam, a major technological breakthrough, and could easily navigate at depths of up to 30 metres, though its maximum speed of just 1.5 knots was

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Portrait of Narcís Monturiol © Museu Marítim de Barcelona

a serious stumbling block. It was also equipped with an ingenious chemical system for eliminating carbon dioxide and replenishing oxygen. There were even pincers for harvesting coral. In many aspects, it would not be bettered for decades. For many Catalans, Monturiol was a hero. Robert Hughes claims that “the success of Ictíneo in Barcelona was a 19th-century premonition of the emotions which gripped Americans a century later at the sight of the NASA astronauts.” Poems were even written about his creation. But she attracted virtually no money, and Monturiol was now hounded by debts and desperately tried to enlist the support of the Spanish Navy by arming his new machine with a cannon. The submarine of peace would be now primed for war, but they were uninterested in this crazy Catalan. Spurned by Spain, he even offered Ictíneo II to the US Navy, but the American Civil War was over and military budgets had been slashed. His shareholder’s association soon went bankrupt, and the vessel, the most advanced submarine in the world for decades, was sold for scrap, its surface engine ending its days on a local farm grinding flour. By 1880, Monturiol had fallen on hard times, surviving as a badlypaid clerk. However, he continued to be involved, more fruitlessly than ever, in large projects, such as a madcap scheme to divert water from the River Ter to Barcelona. Like many inventors, he was unable to turn his brilliant ideas into hard cash. As he put it, “I don’t know how to do business, nor do I know how to win men over so that they will come to my aid.” He died in 1885 at the age of 69. Despite attempts to ban it by the Spanish monarchy, he was paid a public homage in Barcelona. Within four years, the Spanish Navy had picked up on his ideas and built a new vessel. Now Monturiol was declared a national hero. Tragically, the machine he naively believed would help save humanity was redeveloped over the coming decades by numerous inventors in ways that led to tens of thousands of horrible deaths at sea during the two world wars. Nick Lloyd leads Civil War tours in Barcelona and runs the website

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MAKING PLANS A few suggestions about things to do tonight, this weekend, later on...

theatre in english

Taming a shrew,

21st-century style... The English Drama School Theatre. June 21st to 24th. €10.

If you’ve seen Kiss Me Kate or 10 Things I Hate About You, you might have recognised the familiar plot from the oft-times adapted Shakespeare play, The Taming of the Shrew. Julian Wickham, writer and director, has created his own modern version of the love story and comedy, which is performed this month by the English Drama School. It follows the journey of an eccentric theatre director, Petrucchio, and his young actor protégé, Lucientio. After losing all of their money on a dud play in London, they decide to go to Hollywood and open a theatre, where they try and prove that theatre is better than cinema.

Fight club WWE Raw World Tour, Palau Olímpic de Badalona. June 9th. From €20.

Ridiculously muscled-up men. Glossy ladies in bikinis. Melodrama, tears and lots of growling. And, most of all, over-the-top fighting that looks incredibly painful, but is all really part of a carefully choreographed show. Professional wrestling today has little to do with what was practised in ancient Greece and Rome, or indeed the many other cultures that adopted the sport. But this modern incarnation is a huge success on a global scale, pulling in major crowds both for its television and live events. Viz. this month, the WWE Raw World Tour returns to Barcelona a year after its last visit here, which can only mean an enthusiastic audience in these here parts. ‘Superstars’ CM Punk, Chris Jericho, John Cena (below) and The Miz will battle it out on stage, while more entertainment will be provided by popular WWE names such as Kelly Kelly, Jack Swagger and R-Truth.

...and a New York murder-mystery

Barceloneta Civic Centre. June 29th, July 1st, 6th and 7th. €10 in advance on and €12 on the door. Hunter Tremayne’s play Vermilion Wine (above) was first produced in New York in 2006, and is now being shown in Barcelona for the first time by theatre company TTC. Protagonist Ian Sinclair is a PI in Forties’ NYC and the action picks up six years after he is attacked in a fit of murderous frenzy by his lover, Rebecca. She has just escaped from the asylum, while Sinclair is on the hunt for the missing husband of a wealthy heiress. It is a world where mystery lies around every scene change.

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FESTIVAL ROUND-UP With summer officially starting later this month (although at the time of writing, it’s already pretty warm and humid out there), the city’s festival season is getting into full swing. Here’s a brief guide to what’s happening in the coming weeks: GREC. Although the main action of Barcelona’s popular summer cultural event starts on July 1st, there is a special public event to launch the Grec on the evening of June 30th. The inauguració ciutadana—announced by new festival director Ramon Simó in April as part of a series of changes the organisers are planning for the next four years—will take place on Passeig

Up on stage

Lluís Companys, and features music, dance and theatre; so, all the essential parts of the Grec in a big street party open to all. MONTMELÓ TWO DAYS. You may only know

Some of the concerts happening this month in Barcelona

the Catalan town of Montmeló for the annual

Lenny Kravitz—Sunday 3rd at Sant Jordi Club Isabel Pantoja—Sunday 17th at L’Auditori Madonna—Wednesday 20th and Thursday 21st at Palau Sant Jordi St. Vincent—Wednesday 20th at Sala Apolo Portishead—Friday 22nd at Poble Espanyol

Formula One event at the Circuit de Catalunya, but this year there’s a new reason to head out there, not least if you’re an electronic dance music fan. Montmeló Two Days takes place on June 8th and 9th (the first day focuses on ‘underground-dance’, while the second is more geared to mainstream sounds), close to the race circuit but in a countryside setting and with a campsite for those who want to get into the real festival spirit. Confirmed acts include Alaska and Nacho Canut, Rebeka Brown and DJ Herr. FESTIVAL DE MÚSICA GOSPEL DE BARCELONA. For six nights from Monday 25th, the Palau Sant Jordi will host an extravaganza of gospel, including a 1,000-person choir supporting the main acts. These are headed by Cameroon musician Emmanuel Djob and his group

Telling his story

By the Gospel River, and award-winner Ingrid Rosario from the US. MOSTRA INTERNACIONAL DE FILMS DE DONES. Starting with an open-air screening of

Tinta Roja, Saturday 9th, 9pm. €5.

Norwegian film Sykt Lykkelig (Always Happy)

US musician David Cevoli admits to a wide variety of influences on his

on Thursday 7th, this 11-day festival celebrates

song-writing, taking in jazz, traditional flamenco and musical legends of the

women film-makers. The programme includes

Sixties and Seventies. The two albums to date of the David Cevoli Band

shorts, debates, contributions from young

(both, impressively, released last year) take these eclectic sounds and

directors in the Maghreb and episodes from a

converge them with inspirations from Cevoli’s youth in Manhattan and New

tv documentary about and made by legendary

York state; the group’s latest release is tellingly titled All Grown Up, a reflec-

Belgium-born film-maker, Agnès Varda. www.

tion of the personal back-story behind its compositions.

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SÓNAR PICK The electronic music festival returns with a line-up that is bigger than ever, but this is one act that you really should try and see. By Tori Sparks.


Mostly Robot: clockwise from top left—Jamie Liddell, Tim Exile, DJ Shiftee, Mr Jimmy and Jeremy Ellis

Sónar describes itself as “the festival of advanced music and

Jamie Lidell is a British vocalist who started out as the heir-apparent

multimedia art…a carefully assembled range of culture that combines

to Little Richard, but took a left turn with his talent for beat boxing and

entertainment with artistry.” In that case, the electro supergroup Mostly

use of cutting-edge technology to manipulate his voice. His interest

Robot should be its poster child.

in combining and crossing genres has led to collaborations with

Native Instruments, the electronic music software and gadgets

numerous artists, including Feist and Beck. He’s accompanied here by

company, has assembled five of its endorsed artists for this world

‘keyboard wizard’ Mr Jimmy, who has a penchant for performing wild-

premiere live show. Add renowned Berlin-based design collective

haired and often shirtless.

Pfadfinderei into the mix, and you have a show that will truly be a sight

Finally, Jeremy Ellis started out as a keyboard player in the clubs of

to be seen.

Detroit. These days his freakishly fast fingers can be seen on YouTube,

Some musicians argue that when computers replace guitars and

demonstrating Native Instrument’s ‘Maschine’.

pianos, it’s no longer ‘music’. In the traditional sense, maybe not—but

The roots of visual artists Pfadfinderei are in VJ-ing and vector-based

there’s a time and a place for tradition, and it’s definitely not Sónar.

design, but they’ve done everything from corporate campaigns for Nike

What is exciting about the Mostly Robot show is that there will be no

and Mini to live music projects like this one. The Pfadfinderei team at

pre-programming and no use of MIDI grids. If you’re scratching your

Sónar will receive digital input in the form of note and controller events

head, hang tight. This means that while the performers will be using

created by each musician onstage to generate graphics. In other

complex technological tools to get their sound and images across,

words, each time one of the guys hits a button, it will produce an image

the ‘in the moment’ performance aspect of the show will be the same

that will be projected on the big screens in front of you. Think flashing

as you’d find in a performance by any jazz ensemble, symphony or

lights, Greek gods, tightrope walkers and space travel.

punk band. And Pfadfinderei (which means ‘pathfinders’) will let you

There has been a lot of hype about this particular performance. To

see it all in brilliant colour. You’ll be able to follow the notes with your

quote the bio on the website of Jeremy Ellis: “No one has spoken so

ears as well as your eyes, courtesy of Native Instruments’ advanced

eloquently through music alone since Mozart or Miles Davis.” Now,


I’m not entirely sure what that even means and I’ll leave it up to you

But wait, there’s more. All the Mostly Robot guys have intriguing bios

to decide whether the Robot group are on a par with those particular

in their own right:

legends, but I would agree that of all the acts at Sónar 2012, this is the

DJ Shiftee hails from New York City. He is not only the youngest

one you won’t want to miss.

holder of the DMC World DJ Championships title, he also has a degree from Harvard and an NYU adjunct professorship. In contrast,

Mostly Robot will play during the day on Thursday 14th (time

Tim Exile is a classically trained violinist. He has a Philosophy degree


and an MA in Electroacoustic Composition from Durham University. His live performances have become increasingly experimental, which led to a 2009 tour with ever-innovative digital diva Imogen Heap.

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Tori Sparks is a Barcelona-based musician and writer. Find out more at:

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10 years young

Images: Amongst the films showing this year are (L-R) Sherlock Jr, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes and The King’s Speech

The open-air cinema extravaganza Sala Montjuïc is celebrating its first decade and we asked the festival’s two directors whether they had expected the success of the event, how they choose their films and about plans for the future.

Barcelona is home to a growing number of outdoor summer film events, but arguably the leader of the pack is Sala Montjuïc, which has been going for 10 years. With an eclectic mix of new and classic movies shown in their original language, preceded by short works from local film students and live music, plus a splendid setting just right for a picnic with friends and enjoying special views of the city before the on-screen action begins, it’s no wonder that some 250,000 people have headed up to Montjuïc Castle on many a balmy evening in the past decade. To get a behind-the-scenes look at the festival, we put a few questions to directors Mireia Manen and Nathalie Modigliani. When Sala Montjuïc started, did you expect it to be such a success? No, definitely not. At the start, we wanted Sala Montjuïc to be a big, popular event, similar to the festival ‘Cinema en plein air’ in Paris, which was our initial reference point, but we didn’t expect so much support on the first day, when more than 2,000 people came! We had faith in the project and, in fact, we looked for a space that could accommodate a lot of people, but everyone was telling us that Barcelona isn’t Paris and that it would be complicated to get people to go up Montjuïc. Why did you chose Montjuïc Castle as the location? We were looking for the ideal space for the festival for almost two years, it wasn’t easy at all. We were searching for a place with grass to make it comfortable for the public, a good picnic spot, etc. and that was big enough and without trees or plants that would impede people’s view. And that had a certain charm. All this in Barcelona is not easy to find. Then someone suggested we get in touch with the team that at the time was in charge of managing Montjuïc Park, as they were keen to energise the space and encourage its cultural growth. In such projects there are always moments in which different interests come together and create an opportunity. You have to see it and take advantage of it, and when we discovered the Fossat de Santa Eulàlia at the Castle of Montjuïc, we were sure. It was actually even better than what we had imagined. The Sala Montjuïc programme is always a mix of new and classic films. What is the selection process for the films that are shown

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each year? We look for a balance of genres, origins and direction styles. A combination of famous titles and other, more risky options. But we try to make sure that they all have their own quality. We spend the year watching films; we go to the cinema like everybody else, and we take notes about the ones that fit our criteria. Later, we do a first internal brainstorming in MODiband, and later another one with the programming director of the Verdi Cinemas. Afterwards come the filters of copy availability in the 35mm format, and rights, both of which limit us a lot. We also look for copies of the films in good condition to guarantee a high projection quality on a huge screen. Do you have any important plans for the future of Sala Montjuïc? To keep going, keep our loyal public and get the interest of more young people. To continue being a fresh way to discover a different side of cinema or to be able to enjoy film classics in magical surroundings. We will have to make the change to digital projection and this will be a new challenge, as the space isn’t set up like a conventional cinema. But we also hope that the change in system will mean greater access to films that up to now we haven’t been able to show. We are also planning greater connection with other organisations and collectives, with the aim of enriching both the programme and the accompanying activities that go with the screenings, so that everything on offer is improved and encourages greater participation. And perhaps in the future we will also create a Sala B… Sala Montjuïc Castell de Montjuïc. June 29th to August 8th. Films shown on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. €5 on the door; ticket office opens at 8.30pm on screening days. €5.50 in advance from event web (see below) and Doors open: 8.30pm; live music starts: 8.45pm; screenings begin: 10pm. Deckchair rental: €3. Free car parking is available in the area, and special buses run from Plaça Espanya between 8.30 and 9.30pm, and back down once the film has ended.

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With the summer sun really beginning to shine, we suggest some watery spots around Catalunya that might help you keep cool. By Max Bentley.


Situated high up in the heart of the Pyrenees is the sole Spanish national park in Catalunya, Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, a spectacular landscape of serrated mountain peaks, fir and pine forests, tumbling streams and mirrored lakes. There are two main entrances to the park, at Vall de Boí (Alta Ribagorça) and Vall de Espot (Pallars Sobirà). If entering from Vall de Boí, make sure to visit the impressive, virtually untouched collection of nine early Romanesque churches that were consecrated in the 11th and 12th centuries and are today a UNESCO World Heritage site. Entering from this side also takes you to the Riu de Sant Nicolau which merges into the Riu Escrita at the plain of Aigüestortes (which means ‘twisted waters’). The effects of glaciation are evident here from the U-shaped valley and anonymous boulders that have been abandoned by retreating glaciers, leading to the formation of waterfalls further downstream. At the eastern entrance of the park, at Vall de Espot, lies the park’s largest lake, the Estany de Sant Maurici, which is the preying spot for over 25 bird species, including the Golden Eagle and Peregrine Falcon, making it ideal for birdwatchers. It is also popular with muskrats, marmots and otters, which prowl the river banks. The crags of Els Encantats (The Enchanted Mountains) are one of the most eyecatching and unique rock formations in the area and feature in the park’s emblem. Legend has it that two men and their dogs decided to hunt izard (another name for the chamois, a goat-antelope) instead of attending mass and were consequently struck by lightning and turned to stone; supposedly, if you look at the twin peaks, you can see the profiles of the two men together with their dog. From here, there are many hiking trails available, some of which take you to the highest peaks of the Pyrenees, towering over 200 mountain lakes at altitudes of up to 3,000 metres. The walk to the Mirador de l’Estany provides sightseers with some of the best views across the Iberian Peninsula and even in June, be prepared to encounter the occasional snowdrift!

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A hundred kilometres from Barcelona, in the region of el Pla de l’Estany, lies the Banyoles Lake, which is the largest natural lake in Catalunya, with a surface area of 112 hectares or 1.12 square kilometres. Since hosting the rowing events at the 1992 Olympic Games, the lake has become one of the most iconic natural attractions in the north-eastern Iberian Peninsula and has witnessed a large influx of tourists and rowers from all over Europe. The lake is particularly popular in the summer when holidaymakers sojourn in the lodges scattered around its perimeter, to take advantage of the nearby forest walking trails and water activities. The still waters are a perfect place for rowing, kayaking and canoeing whilst providing panoramic shots of the Pyrenees which loom in the background. La Draga Park is the only spot on the lake where you can enjoy a picnic but it gives you wonderful views of the habitat that is home to a range of fish, aquatic birds and creatures such as kingfishers, turtles, salamanders and frogs. White willows, European alders, white poplars and the odd banana tree cling to the edge of the shoreline. Last month, the lake held its first Dragon Boat Festival, which ties in the Chinese Year of the Dragon with the eighth-century legend that a monster lived in a cave beside the water. This month, on Sunday 17th, it will host the ITU Triathlon World Cup, which involves a 1.5-kilometre swim in the lake followed by a 40-kilometre bike ride around the surrounding area before a 10-kilometre run along the bank of the water. In May, Catalan General Secretary for Sports, Ivan Tibau, spoke in an interview on the event’s website about his delight at the decision to hold the event in Banyoles: “We are very happy about Banyoles being the first Spanish town hosting the World Cup, and the second city in Europe. This speaks for the excellent conditions offered by the town and its lake, where all kinds of competitons can be practised.” This could be yet another tourist boom for the small medieval town, which has other notable attractions such as the Benedictine Sant Esteve monastery and the Pia Almoina, a Gothic palace that serves as a historical museum for the region.

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Estany de Sant Maurici © Archivo del Parque Nacional de Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici


Not many venture to the small rural town of Castellar de N’Hug, which hugs the cliffs of Els Balços in Berguedá, but it is one of the hidden gems of Catalunya. Its most prized asset is the source of the Llobregat River where water surges up from beneath the earth before gushing out from behind crevices in pure, crystal-like showers, providing spectators with a spectacle that highlights the beauty and brute strength of Mother Nature. Early summer is the perfect time to see the spring in full force and the Cami de les Fonts takes you on an enjoyable venture through the river-bank forests, allowing you to admire the surrounding plants and wildlife. The Llobregat is the second-longest river in Catalunya, after the Ebre, running over 170 kilometres from Castellar de N’Hug to the Mediterranean Sea. Castellar de N’Hug is also Catalunya’s highest mountain village, at an altitude of 1,450 metres above sea level, and is famous for hosting one of Catalunya’s more unusual festivals, the International Sheepdog Competition (Gossos d’ Atura), which takes place at El Prat del Castell every year on the last Sunday in August.


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An aerial view of Banyoles lake © A.Cutiller

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VISION OF LOVELINESS A special location for a special occasion, but keep an eye on the prices. By Tara Stevens. Photos by Richard Owens. ✪ - NOT WORTH THE TRIP, ✪✪ - COULD IMPROVE, ✪✪✪ - GOOD, ✪✪✪✪ - VERY GOOD, ✪✪✪✪✪ - NOT TO BE MISSED


t was nearly 20 degrees and as bright and sunshiny a day as you could hope for. The sort of day that makes you feel you haven’t a care in the world, summer’s on its way and it’s time to get outdoors. Earlier that week, a reader wrote to me asking if I could recommend some terrace restaurants for a birthday celebration, and after coming up with a few suggestions, I realised I’d not revised this particular genre of eating out for sometime. Considering Barcelona is a Mediterranean city, it’s surprisingly limited when it comes to special places for dining al fresco. I explained this dilemma to a friend who came up with a suggestion: the Cafè 1907 near Tibidabo. Now, Tibidabo is not an area of town I venture to very often. I’ve never had cause to visit the British Council office up there and I rarely go to the funfair at the top of the mountain. But the website of Cafè 1907 painted a bonny picture of a restrained Modernista dining room with panelled French doors that opened onto an intimate terrace shaded by bougainvillea and vines, and a menu that showed it cared. Black-footed chickens were sourced from the Penedès, organic beef had been aged for seven days, and vegetables were plucked from the restaurant’s own garden in Sant Cugat. Naturally, I was raring to go. And I wasn’t disappointed. Cafè 1907 is indeed a vision of loveliness, made more so by its gracious owner-chef Xavier Sala who came beaming out of his kitchen to greet us. We ordered a bright and perky bottle of Chasselas blanc from Switzerland, since they had it; the small wine menu offers a handful

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of interesting Swiss bottles, a nod to Sala’s parents’ love of the mountains. We ordered four things to share from a menu that reads marvellously well, providing you pay some attention to the prices. I wasn’t, and believe me, the cost of eating here can escalate wildly if you don’t watch it, with starters from €14 and a whole roast chicken, wonderful as the concept is, priced at a whopping €65. Our homemade burratta with fresh garden herbs wasn’t quite as gooey as I like it, but had a good, tender texture and hints of pasture that tell you the milk came from a real cow. A rocket and herb salad, all freshly picked from the garden, was fresh and peppery as can be and topped with a zingy tomato confit and shavings of salty Casamateu sheep’s cheese. In both cases, I felt too much had been made of the dreaded reduced balsamic zigzagging, but perhaps that’s just me. Seriously, though, why do people still do that? It overpowers everything. We shared an excellent monkfish and seafood canelone, topped with a cream sauce infused with prawn coral and finished off with a crunchy, pork-infused quaver, which was inspired, if rich. I’d recommend sharing it, as we did, rather than making it your main course. And then we had the steak ‘al estilo de’ Café Paris, which here is prepared in a copper pan at the table. The performance is quite exciting as eating in Barcelona goes, though the sauce wasn’t quite what I was expecting. My understanding of Steak Café Paris is two-fold. There’s the rich, creamy sauce on a foundation of chicken livers, and the densely herby butter that’s put on top of the steak when it comes off

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the grill. But it seems I’ve been missing the third, and most likely the original, way, which uses a whole ton of herbs and spices, and was invented in Geneva by one Freddy Dumont in 1941. Certainly it seems to be the recipe that Sala uses as his inspiration, making liberal use of untold numbers of spice and herb ingredients. I couldn’t begin to tell you exactly what’s in the version of Cafè 1907, but if you imagine a cream-based sauce redolent of Madras curry spices you’ll get some inkling of the beast. Combined with a steak as tender as butter and a side of crunchy fries, it’s no wonder the dish is Sala’s signature. We saved just enough space to share an individual tarte tatin, which has been described by other Barcelona critics as one of the best in the world. I’m not sure if I’d go that far, but I’ll join in by saying it’s probably the best in Barcelona. All in all then, rich food and rich prices, but something to consider for special occasions. Follow Tara’s gourmet musings on Twitter: @taralstevens

Cafè 1907, Cister 25 (Tibidabo). Tel. 93 418 4998. Open: Tue-Sat 1pm-3.30pm, 9pm-10.30pm; Sun & Mon by reservation only. Three courses plus wine €60+. Tara’s rating: ✪✪✪

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quick bites LA RUTA DE PINTXOS I TAPES DEL POBLE SEC By Tara Stevens. Photos by Tashoma Lemard.


hey say the best things in life come in small packages. Like Poble Sec’s weekly ‘tapas and pincho hop’, which sees the bars, restaurants and community come together in the convivial art of eating and drinking. Carrer Blai, the pedestrianised street that runs parallel to Paral·lel, is already fairly lively, it’s true, but this latest innovation brings entire families, friends and neighbours out in their droves. Officially, there are 14 participating establishments; unofficially, there are many more as it seems nearly everyone has entered into the spirit of things by offering a drink (a glass of wine or a beer) and a tapa for €2 every Thursday evening from 7pm, from now until July 12th. Rarely has a tapas crawl been more affordable or, for that matter, more fun. It’s a stroke of brilliance for a barri that may not have the polish of the Born or the historic impact of the Barri Gòtic, and it has successfully captured the very essence of the tapeo: an affordable and diplomatic means of spreading the wealth in your village by

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having a drink and a snack in one place before moving on and doing the same in the next. The route goes from the Fifties’ bar La Federica (Salvá 3), spreading along the entire length of Blai and up to Plaça del Sortidor, ensuring there’s plenty of terrace space and choice for everyone. At La Soleá (Plaça del Sortidor 14), we chomped on saucers of tasty seafood paella washed down with small tumblers of cold Moritz. Bar Lia (Blai 28) is famous for its three meat croquetes, but last week came up trumps with mini salads of sweet, plump sun-blush tomatoes in thyme-infused oil scattered with rocket and glasses of vibrant Rueda. And La Tieta (Blai 1) served mounds of rich ensaladilla rusa—chopped potatoes in a velvety mayonnaise studded with gherkins, chunks of high grade tuna and sweet carrots—with a buttery white from the Costers del Segre. Grand total €6. Now that, my friends, is surely worth leaving the house for.

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Food&Drink For more in food&drink visit our online directory


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American THE ORIGINAL AMERICAN SUPERMARKET 4Sant Gervasi Good news from Taste of America! All of the products you miss from the U.S.A., from BBQ sauces to breakfast treats, are now in Barcelona. Cheerios, Hershey’s chocolates, peanut butter and jelly, Newman’s Own sauces, Wilton, root beer, Peperidge Farm, marshmallows, macaroni & cheese, bagels and more are just some of the goodies that await discovery. Go visit, you’ll be amazed! And for your convenience, there is public parking right at the rear of the store! New opening in Sant Cugat! Balmes 322 I FGC Sant Gervasi I Tel. 93 211 9792 C/Plana Hospital 18 I FGC Sant Cugat Tel. 93 187 5070

PINK ELEPHANT 4EIXAMPLE E Barcelona’s first contemporary American restaurant and cocktail bar, now in their fourth year, invite you to indulge your senses. All menu items are made to order and their desserts are baked on the premises by an American chef. To complement your visit, browse their selection of wine and beer from the U.S. including the latest additions from the Brooklyn Brewery.

Villarroel 82 I Metro L1 Urgell/L5 Hospital Clinic Tel. 93 502 4825 I Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, 7pm-1am, Sat 1pm-4pm, 7pm-3am, Sun 7pm-1am

biergarten4Les Corts To celebrate the eighth year of the Biergarten, the first traditional German terrace in Barcelona, why don’t you and your friends try the real taste of Bavaria? The space recreates the legendary beer gardens, with German music, typical Bavarian food and beer, wooden benches and excellent service from waiters wearing costumes from the region. The Biergarten is the ideal place to come and have a great time while watching your favourite football.

Pl. Pius XII, 4 I Metro Mª Cristina Tel. 93 5081 000/676 477 094 Open every day from noon to midnight

MANCHESTER BAR4Barri gÒtic Manchester Bar brings together friends and music fans to enjoy great tunes from the Eighties and Nineties. From Joy Division to Placebo to The Smiths and all the way through to the Happy Mondays, Manchester Bar have it all. A must-visit place for anyone who knows and loves their music! Milans 5 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am Tel. 627 733 081 |

BOLLOCKS BAR4Barri gÒtic The quintessential rock bar in downtown Barcelona. Covered in posters and graffiti from top to bottom, the bar has the air of an abandoned subway station where daily riffs and whiskey bring together all those who carry rock & roll in their blood. Ample 46 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am Tel. 663 710 095 |

Bagels BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you’ll not come away disappointed.

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I Open Mon-Fri 9.30-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

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7Sins Bar and Lounge 4EIXAMPLE e If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place to get a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! Their menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterfield sofas and impressive decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at

Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat Tel. 93 453 6445 | Mon-Sun 1pm till late | RV

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FLAHERTY'S4Barri GÒtic Since it was established in 2001, Flaherty’s has become one of Barcelona’s best known and busiest Irish pubs. By offering food all day from 10am til midnight (including our popular Full Irish Breakfast as well as group menus), live satellite sports on big screens, WiFi, a sunny terrace and a pool room where you can also play darts, not to mention its very spacious premises, Flaherty’s has rightly become known as the pub that has it all!

Gourmet pizza delivery from 3 locations offering 50+ thin-crust, homemade pizzas. With specials like three large cheese pizzas for 15 and the option to pay by credit card, it makes for an affordable meal at home without all the fuss. Special offer: 2X1 on every Monday home delivery!

Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clinic Tel. 93 444 4737 Rosselló 270 I Tel. 93 458 0710 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gràcia Tel. 93 285 41 95

Plaça Joaquim Xirau | Metro Drassanes Tel. 93 412 6263



You can choose from four types of burger: classic, cheeseburger, barbecue as well as bacon cheese, for 8 to 9.50. Sides include fries, bbq chicken wings, chicken nuggets and salads. Free delivery.

Here quality is of the upmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises.

Tel. 93 458 0710 I Tue-Sun 1pm-4pm and 7pm-11pm

International BELGIOUS 4Barri GÒtic

Sabateret 4 - Bor I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I Calle Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606 I Every day 1pm-12am

With the most original 50 flavours on the planet, Belgious’s HighDefinition Ice-Cream provides a universe of new sensations. Their other products include authentic savoury crepes, waffles from Brussels and full-flavour exotic juices from Brazil, including the famous Açai natigela. Gotico - Avinyo 50 I Metro Liceu I Tel. 93 501 9020 Rambla de Poble Nou - Taulat 83 I Metro Poblenou I Tel.93 127 0333 For opening hours consult

Cocktails PALAU dALMASES COCKTAIL BAR4 Barri GÒtic At the heart of La Ribera neighbourhood, on Carrer Montcada, the Dalmases Palace is one of the most notable city palaces from the 16th century. This gorgeous palace of Baroque influence is a testimony to the artistic, political and cultural life of Catalunya. It’s the perfect place to enjoy the most exciting cocktails, and they also have the best opera music live every Tuesday to Saturday at 8pm.

Montcada 20 I Tel. 93 310 0673 I Open every day from 7pm

GILdA BY BELGIOUS4 Barri GÒtic Open for just one year, Belgious’s new restaurant concept has already become a reference in the Gothic quarter, famous for its Belgian-Spanish tapas and fusion cuisine with ice-cream. During the week, they surprise their visitors with exquisite daily menu offerings. At night, you can start the evening with various Belgian draught beers then continue with some tapas, or how about their famous Flemish beef stew? Check them out, you won’t be disappointed! Ample 34 I Tel.93 310 3492 Open Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, Every day from 7pm-12am

delivery BREAd & CIRCUSES BARCELONA 4GrÀcia Bread & Circuses creates delicious, inexpensive, creative sandwiches showcasing American technique and style combined with incredible Catalan ingredients. The first truly American-style sandwich shop and delivery service in Barcelona. Try their lunch box special for your office, picnic in the park or day at the beach. Follow them on Facebook.

food &drink

to advertise in this section, please call 93 451 4486 or email Congost 13, 08024 I FGC Gràcia Tel. 610 898 494 I Delivery from 1pm-4pm

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*READER Firstly there’s the food. DISCOUNT

Icho restaurant blends authentic Japanese cooking with the best Mediterranean products. This is an unequalled, exquisite and innovative gastronomic option, totally unique in Barcelona. The tasting menu is pure gastronomy fantasy—you will delight in an emotional journey beyond your senses. This restaurant breaks the mould of the existing impressions of modern Japanese gastronomy in Spain.

Using only the finest quality ingredients, the kitchen specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with an international twist and plenty of options for vegetarians. Try their quinoa and tofu burgers or a sinful home-made dessert. Secondly, there’s Gut’s attention to detail and the friendly, respectful service. It’s the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the night in good company. Try it for yourself and find out why everyone is talking about Gut.

Perill 13 I Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 186 6360 I

Deu i Mata 69-95, 08029 | Metro Maria Cristina Tel. 93 444 3370 | Mon-Sat ,1.30pm-4pm and 9pm-11.30pm



Sakura-Ya is a serene-yet-busy little joint that combines a Japanese restaurant, bar, souvenir shop and food store. Located in L’illa shopping centre, at lunchtime it offers the very best traditional Japanese cuisine and take-away. The quality of the food is excellent, and so is the service. SakuraYa definitely lives up to its standards, so whenever you are in the mood for some shopping and good food, treat yourself to a Sakura-Ya experience.

If you want to enjoy the best sushi service in the city, this is your place! Sushiexpress takes great pride in using top quality ingredients to ensure excellent sushi. They are conveniently located in two places in the city: l’Eixample and Santaló, and they can deliver it to your home or hotel. Delivery is from 1pm-3pm and from 8pm-11pm. You can choose individual pieces of maki, nigiri, sashimi, temaki, menus, combos, and other Japanese specialties from an extensive menu that you can check on their website. If you eat at any of their locations at noon the menus are accompanied by a free drink.

Japanese - Sushi

Centre comercial l’illa Diagonal planta el rebost Diagonal 557, 08029 | Metro Mª Cristina/Les Corts Tel. 93 405 2645/93 430 48 90 | Fax. 93 430 3743 Restaurant Mon-Thurs 1pm-5pm, 6pm-9.30pm, Fri-Sat 1pm-9.30pm Shop Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm

Consell de Cent 255 | Tel. 93 451 5454 Open 12pm-4pm, 7pm-11pm 365days/year! Delivery 1pm-3pm, 8pm-10.30pm

Indian TOYO - SUSHI TRAIN4GrÀcia Among the youth it’s the most sought after Sushi Train Restaurant in Barcelona. It’s the absolute place to be if you’re in with the in crowd and always packed five minutes after opening. It has a quality buffet with super fresh food prepared daily, Toyo is the place to go. Not only do they have a huge amount of different types of dishes, but you can also eat as much as your heart desires. Choose what you like while it passes in front of you, you don’t have to spend a fortune to get great service. Toyo gives you amazing food for a good price. The midday menu is only 10 and the evening one is 15. Torrent del Olla 10 | T. 93 459 2630 Open 1.30pm-4pm, 8.30pm-Midnight Closed Mon night

NAKASHITA4Born Nakashita is Barcelona’s newest sushi restaurant, a cosy place where you can enjoy the best Japanese food and freshest seafood. Located close to the Arc de Triomf, the restaurant feels like an authentic Japanese tavern with a very intimate atmosphere. Enjoy your delicious food along with wine, Japanese beer or sake.

Rec Comtal 15 | Metro Arc de Triomf Tel. 93 295 5378 | Mon-Sun 1.30pm-4.30pm, 8.30pm-12am

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NIRVANA4eiXaMPLe Located in the heart of Barcelona, Nirvana is a relaxed and intimate place, inspired by the refined esthetics of Oriental culture with modernist touches. They provide an original mix of Indian style and the latest trends from the world’s major capitals, creating a special environment that transports you to a place of feelings, tastes and nuances that make any visit to Nirvana an unforgettable experience. From noon, you can enjoy a creative menu that combines a selection of traditional Indian flavours with Mediterranean cuisine, and features exquisite details of Oriental cuisine. Later on, enjoy their Club Lounge where Nirvana offers excellent service in an area designed for you to enjoy a varied menu of drinks and cocktails, as well as a live event or show.

Pau Claris 96 | Metro Passeig de Gràcia | Tel. 93 270 3585 | | Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, Mon-Sun 8pm-3am

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NAMASTE4eIXAMPle e Namaste was the first Indian restaurant in Barcelona. You will be able to enjoy authentic North Indian food in a lavish and exotically decorated interior. The secret of Namaste’s rich and authentic cuisine lies in the finest selection of delicate condiments cooked by professional Indian chefs, using the Tandoor cylindrical oven of Northern India—the best oven for keeping the juices and flavours of cooked food. Namaste has also carefully selected the best wines to accompany Indian food, including Indian wines. For beer lovers, Namaste has a wide range of European brands and Indian beers and liquors.

In the heart of the Gothic quarter, Magnolia offers exquisite signature cuisine from chef Gianni Fusco at affordable prices. With its warm and loungy interior, it is the place of choice at any time of the day. During the week, breakfast and lunch menus attract huge crowds thanks to their great quality and reasonable prices. During the afternoon, clients can choose from a variety of tapas or enjoy mojitos for just 3.50. Breakfast from 2.70, Lunch from 9. Dinner menu 17.95 (Sun-Thurs) 25 (Fri-Sat) Ciutat 5 | Metro Jaume I | 93 304 2376 | 691 504 942 | | Mon-Thurs 9am-1am, Fri 9am-3am, Sat 1pm-3am, Sun 1pm-1am

Villarroel 70 | Tel. 93 451 4027 Open 1pm-4 pm, 8pm-12pm

Indian - Hindu VEG WORLd INdIA4 GrÀcia Discover a world of sensations in a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Try vegetarian delicacies from all over the world such as delicious bread home-made in a Tandoori oven and south Indian dishes like Masala dosa and Idly. Daily continental and Indian menus, 9.50 inc. Free soup and salad buffet.

Bruniquer 26 | Metro Joanic Tel. 93 210 7056 | Tues-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30pm

Juice and Smoothie Bar SANO 4GrÀcia Barri GÒtic - SantS Want a healthy, tasty alternative? Try a refreshing smoothie like Antioxidant, Mango & Passion Fruit or Coco Muesli ( 3.80) or a delicious juice made only with fresh blended fruit and no added water, milk or sugar ( 3.60). Can’t decide? Try one of their convenient combos from 4.50.

Gran de Gràcia 16 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 217 8115 | Jaume 1 | Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 310 3247 | Creu Coberta 50 Metro Espanya | Tel. 93 117 0891 Every day 10am-8pm | |

ROMERO4 eiXaMPLe D Located in the centre of the city, just a few streets from Passeig de Grácia, this exquisite and charming restaurant serves fresh, organic produce sourced directly from local markets. The staff are determined to share their love for Barcelona and its culinary wonders and only use the best ingredients to create their delicious dishes. The idea behind the restaurant was to create a unique space where good friends could come together and enjoy great Mediterranean food and wine. The chef at Romero, José Antonio Camacaro León, has an unmatched passion for food and offers his guests creative, natural dishes based on Mediterranean cuisine. With options for vegetarians and gluten-free menu items, there’s something to suit all tastes. Be sure to check out the great value set menus and daily specials too. Bailén 115 | Metro Verdaguer or Girona | Tel. 93 457 0640 | | Mon to Sat Lunch starting at 1pm Mon-Fri 5pm-9pm, Thu-Sat Dinner starting at 8.30pm

Mexican JUICY JONES 4Barri GÒtic Barcelona’s emblematic juice bar now also serves vegan breakfast that includes tortilla de patata, muesli with raw cashew yogurt, muffins, waffles, coffee and tea. Chill out in the bar for smoothies or enjoy a sandwich or a full meal in the restaurant.

Cardenal Casañas 7 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 302 4330 Every day 10am-midnight

Mediterranean BARNABIER4Port oLÍMPic Located at the base of the Mapfre tower at Port Olimpic Barnabier specialise in Mediterranean cuisine, paellas, fresh seafood, tapas and have a great list of international beers. Their fantastic menu also includes salads, grilled meat and pasta with something to suit all tastes. For group reservations consult their website for the complete menu. Marina 16 | Metro Port Olimpic Tel. 93 221 0212 |

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VINdA4Barri GÒtic Vinda is a fantastic Mexican bar and restaurant that is famous for its amazing margaritas, daiquiris and mojitos. Located in the heart of the Gothic quarter, they offer an incredible selection of Mexican dishes and tapas that will put you in the mood for an unforgettable night out on the town. Ask the cocktail barman for recommendations!

Regomir 4 I Metro Jaume 1 Tel. 93 319 8956 Mon-Sun 6pm -2am I

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Fabula4Poble Sec Located in a trendy new area of the city, this restaurant offers Mediterranean cuisine using the freshest market ingredients as well as a fantastic wine list with wines selected from over 17 DOs. They have a great three-course menu del día for 10.20 and at night you can enjoy traditional Spanish dishes and half rations from la carta. Their special ‘after work’ promotion lets you enjoy their cocktail of the day + tapa for 4.50 between 5pm and 9pm, Monday to Friday. They also have a private room that is available for group bookings.

Barcelona’s best vegan restaurant , Juicy Jones never compromises on freshness or quality. They serve a range of Mediterranean and Indian cuisine with a funky ambience they also offer a large variety of freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothies. Don’t be fooled by imitations. Go Juicy! Hospital 74 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 443 9082 Every day 12pm-5pm, 8pm-1am

Vietnamese la vietnamita 4GRÀCIA La Vietnamita is a new food concept in the heart of Gràcia, offering fresh and healthy Vietnamese inspired cuisine. They serve light and nutritious dishes such as traditional ‘Pho’ soup, the typical rice noodle dish ‘Bun Xiau’ and classic ‘Goi Cuon’ spring rolls. All their dishes are prepared in the moment and served with ingredients that are naturally full of flavour. Veggies and vegans: they have a lot to offer you, too! So what are you waiting for?

Parlament 1 | Metro Poble Sec | Tel. 93 292 6209 |

Torrent de l’Olla 78 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 518 1803 |

Tapas / Mediterranean patxoca 4BORN This fantastic restaurant has tapas and traditional dishes that use local and seasonal produce, including vegetarian options, all prepared in a home-cooking style. Enjoy a daily menu from Monday till Saturday, and brunch on Sunday! Patxoca also has a beautiful terrace on a pedestrianised street, with a child’s play area just next door. They don’t use MSG.


Tel. 93 319 2029 | Mercaders 28 Close to Santa Caterina market Mon-Sat 10am-2am, Sun 10am-3pm, 8pm-midnight

Thai Thai gracia4GRÀCIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 11 menú del día is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more.

Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV


Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day.

Sagristans 3 | Metro Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | Every day 1pm-1am

Winebar amaltea4EIXAMPLE E

Disset 17 Graus4BORN

Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun

The new wine temple in Born—a unique space in Barcelona offering a wide range of quality wines. Just opened, you can come and enjoy the cosy, local and welllaid-out bar, surrounded by shelves full of original and interesting wines. Affordable to all, the bar offers wines from all over the world, specialising in Spanish, French and Portuguese wines. Also don’t forget the special drinks menu of gin and tonics, cocktails, whiskies, beers and other drinks.

Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where a warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.30.


Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.

Plaça Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

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Bun bo ViÊtnam4Barri Gòtic

Antic de St Joan 3 Tel. 93 268 1987 | Tue-Sun 7pm-2.30am

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Business directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: See also our online directory at Scissors of London -

BRITISH HAIRDRESSER Tim aspires to listen to your needs and suggests how they might be met in distinctive and exciting ways. Style is unique and Tim will craft you a look achieving a harmony of shape and style. Tim has been hairdressing for over 12 years. Having trained, taught and worked in London’s top salons including Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. Opting out of salon life, Tim works to fit in with the modern pace of life and offers a one to one service orientated around your needs. Carrer Viladomat 45-47, Atico M. 633 382 787

*reADer DisCount

* Discount for Metropolitan readers. Check our website for details.


Kinki peluqueros is an international hairstyling group from Holland with over 40 salons in their home country. They put their heart and soul into cutting and colouring the most beautiful hairstyles, from the latest trends to classic cuts. If you bring a friend for a full treatment they will give you both a 15% discount and a free glass of cava. English, Spanish, Dutch, German and French speaking. Pintor Fortuny 14, Raval Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3) T. 93 302 3379 Open Mon 4pm-8pm, Tues-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-8pm

Hairdates - HAIRDRESSER Their guide will help you find the best hairdressers and stylists in the city, all sorted by area for your ease. Just three clicks and you can easily book your appointment and check out reviews then pay when you arrive at the salon. Leave your review and you’ll gain free points to exchange for free services! Join Hairdates now and discover this week’s Hot New Hairdresser!

The Vital Touch Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - HAIRDRESSER Don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. Anglo-Catalan Anthony Llobet has over 20 years’ experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. Anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including Afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). The original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in Anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices. Gràcia, C/Ros de Olano 19 T. 93 218 0449 / M. 692 371 307 Raval, C/Sant Pau 122 T. 93 441 3177 / M. 692 371 308 El Born, C/Carders 34 T.93 295 4871 / M. 692 371 404 Gòtic, C/Avinyó 34 T. 93 301 4513 / M. 692 371 405

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*reADer DisCount

The Vital Touch Massage Clinic helps stressed women and men, to relax, energise, re-balance and improve their health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - Deep tissue massage with Japanese acupressure points. - Helps relieve tension, reduces stress and removes physical strains. - Hot stone massage also available - Central Barcelona location. *20% off for Metropolitan readers. M. 659 995 657

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VeterCat Melisa Oddo


The best at-home veterinary care for your pet in the province of Barcelona. French and English-speaking veterinarian. Vaccination, general medicine, behaviour problems, emergencies, etc. Thanks to her love for animals, Melisa Oddo offers you the best vet service in your home. Try it for yourself and be impressed.

Professional and friendly, the Bonavet veterinary clinic provides veterinary consultations, x-rays, analyses and surgery. They can also advise you on dietary requirements and they stock a complete range of special food products, beds and toys to keep your pets healthy and happy. If you make an appointment you can even bring your pet down for a grooming session and a trim.


M. 620 157 753

Plaça Bonanova 10 T. 93 211 0204

Pharmacy Serra Mandri

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR


The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service. Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 FGC Diagonal or Gràcia

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the English-speaking community in Barcelona with access to all medical specialties and tests.

Visit our

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3) T. 93 330 2412 M. 627 669 524 Open Mon-Sat


Dr. Christian Eickhoff deutsche zk - DENTIST


Highly recommended among the international community, they use the latest in dental technology like digital prosthetics and orthodontics. The whole German team is English speaking and the doctor has an American training in implantology and orthodontics. Check-ups and X-rays are free. Centrally located.


Consell de Cent 249, bajos Metro Universitat (L1/L2) T. 93 323 9629

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Clínica Caballero Friedlander - DENTIST If you’ve always wanted to have a beautiful smile, but don’t want to wear visible metal braces, they have the solution for you. They’ll be pleased to help by creating an ideal treatment concept for you using Incognito® invisible lingual braces or invisalign® clear braces. Call them for a free evaluation visit:

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST For all your dental needs, a team consisting of our first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. we have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you our services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Puigmarti 33, Local 2 T. 93 237 0287

Rosselló 95, local, 08029, Barcelona Metro: Hospital Clinic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220

Tingsvall & McCarthy -

Dr. J. Vilallonga - AMERICAN

Dr. Stefan Tingsvall offers general dentistry, orthodontics, prosthodontics and endodontics, whilst Elena McCarthy is a qualified dental hygienist and specialises in comprehensive preventative care and tooth whitening with Bright Smile. Together, they aim to provide a relaxing and pleasant experience for the patient.

Doctor Vilallonga and his staff boast many years professional experience and use the most modern technology in an international level in order to offer definitive and results of maximum quality. Don’t allow a dental problem to ruin your life; the time to enjoy life has begun.


Castellnou 47 T. 93 205 1903 M. 636 312 522 / 696 664 430 FGC Les Tres Torres (L6) Bus: 16, 30, 66, 70, 72, 74 Open Mon-Sat

Clínica Dental Image -


Pi i Gibert 34-36, 1º 1ª 08930 Sant Adria de Besos T. 93 381 1864 M. 659 443 583

Sardenya 502 T. 93 192 4050 Metro: Alfonso X (L4) Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-2pm, 4pm-8.30pm

Tania Spearman *reADer ACUPUNCTURE Make acupuncture your first DisCount choice, not your last resort! Tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a 35% discount on first appointments with this voucher. Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to fertility and more. Call now to make your appointment or to see if acupuncture is right for you. Tania is a UK university trained acupuncturist with her own clinic in the centre of Barcelona. English, Spanish and German spoken. Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis 08008 M. 644 322 161




A great new clinic, just opened, offering 20 percent discounts on all treatments, 25 percent off dentures for elderly patients and teeth whitening with a 2 x 1 offer. The first visit and first diagnosis are free. Great design, charming staff and excellent service.

Their infusions taste delicious and complement a healthy lifestyle. They have created four blends using 100 percent naturally-grown herbs and spices. The recipes are based on Ayurvedic medicine and endorsed by modern science. UP&GO: Ideal for sport and exercise. YOUNG&FUN: Enhances memory and promotes concentration. CALM&RELAX: Relieves stress. SLIM&FIT: Helps to maintain a healthy weight. T. 93 814 0287

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Do you want to improve your nutritional health? Ana can help you, as a nutritionist with many years of experience. All you need is a consultation and if you want, she can monitor your progress. Change your lifestyle and improve your health, because we are what we eat!

Sant Hermenegild 26, 4o 2a 08006 M. 679 743 274.

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Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team work with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese and Greek and the first consultation is free.

Jonathan Lane Hooker -


Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialising in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646

M. 644 193 825

NEST is a dedicated multi-disciplinary team of English-speaking therapists who provide professional services to individuals, families, schools and companies. Established in 2000, their highly-qualified, licensed psychologists, psychotherapists and psychiatrists offer outstanding services in English and several other languages. For more details on their practitioners, visit their website or see their advertisement in the main pages.

Krishinda Powers Duff Bsc Hons - Midwife

Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation service. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. means Manuel Isaías López, MD, PhD Claudia RosMidwife Tusquets MA ‘to be with woman’. Clinical Psychologist Child and Adolescent M. 665 143 437 Psychiatrist & Psychoanalyst & Psychotherapist 934 102 962Marenostrum / 657 570 692 Centre de Salut familiar 686 991 742 Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010

All NEST professionals are Licensed / Certified

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Eugenia is a dedicated professional who specialises in psychological issues related to immigration. She offers effective treatment for mood and anxiety disorders as well as couples and family therapy. The first consultation with Eugenia is free.

M. 677 090 479


Established in 2000


Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802


Network of English Speaking Therapists

Eugenia Espinosa -


Paloma Azpilicueta -


English-speaking clinical psychologist and psychotherapist. Forty years of professional experience with adults, children and adolescents. She has worked in both the public and private sectors in mental health as well as in education and social issues. Psychodynamic orientation.

Barcelona: T. 93 415 6646 Mataro: T. 93 799 6596

Clustermedica Laser treatment The B-Cure laser provides relief and treatment for a wide range of orthopedic problems in the neck, back and joints that generally result from bad posture, excessive use of a computer keyboard or sports injuries. Now you can stop pain and heal the source with just a six-minute treatment, twice a day. It’s ready to use anywhere, lightweight and rechargeable. If you’re suffering from this type of injury, then call now or visit their website for more information. T. 90 210 6989 Vidal i Guash 13

English - Spanish - Catalan - Dutch - German - Italian

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Graham Collins Interior Design

Graham Collins is an experienced interior designer and property consultant and can help with everything concerning property, design and decoration. So, whether you need help working out the property market or are looking for someone to renovate your home, Graham is here to help you.

Consolat del Mar 35, 3er Metro: Barceloneta (L4) M. 678 757 511

Vanessa Pascual interior designer

Vanessa Pascual a trained interior designer from the School of Design, University of Vic. Her projects are tailored to the needs of each client under the concept of functionality, beauty and design for everyone. Since 2008 she has run her own firm with a strong team of technical, industrial and design staff, who work closely together, offering their customers a wide range of options and solutions to make their dreams come true. T. 93 841 8021

Terraza Barcelona -


Dirk has a passion for creating affordable carpentry designs for both interior and exterior spaces. From terrace decks to planters, pergolas to storage sheds, he will impress you with the quality of his work. Wooden furniture for: garden, terrace, balcony, living, bedroom, bathroom, office - you name it, he makes it! Everything is custom made - choose from one of his designs or bring your own ideas. Please contact Dirk for an obligation-free quotation.

Advalua is a team of architects and professionals that can find and/or reform the property for sale or rent that you’re looking for, whether to live or work in. They offer a complete range of services: they inspect and evaluate properties; carry out renovation estimates and projects as well as coordinate all the work to be done; process the permits, technical documents and everything you need.

M. 657 452 279

M.693 726 721

Van - Removals


VanBCN offers experience, good service and inexpensive rates to make your move or removal safe and easy. Whether you are looking for man with a van for a quick move or if you want to do a complete removal, just call or send your request online. VanBCN adapts its service to your needs. They can pick up your stuff or take it to the port, airport or storage. Deliver home your purchases from IKEA or any other shop. Move your office, your room or your house. Just contact VanBCN. They know how to do it.

Corase specialise in international removals and have a worldwide network of agents. You can trust them with any type of move, big or small. Their staff are attentive to each client’s needs and are trained to ensure that you get quality, speed and security. Corase also offer a range of other services, including storage facilities. They will be happy to give you a free quote.


T. 93 426 7684 M. 647 533 344

Lugaris - PROPERTY The best option to live and work in Barcelona. Brand new, modern furnished and bright apartments. In Poblenou, a few metres from Bogatell beach and very close to the 22@ district. Privileged services such as swimming pool, parking, security, cleaning and free WI-FI, to make your stay more confortable. Use this promotional code to get 10% off your next booking. Code: 20CM12 Vidal y Valenciano, 14 T. 93 221 9159

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Av. Diagonal 249 Metro: Monumental (L2) T. 90 070 2270 (free)

Aspasios Rentals & Services - PROPERTY Staying at Aspasios in Barcelona and Madrid is the perfect way to enjoy Spain. Feel at home in a new city while staying in a luxurious furnished apartment. Aspasios provides accommodation for days, months or years. They offer check-in at any time and day of the year as well as a 24hr phone service. Aspasios has multicultural staff willing to welcome you in different languages. Adriana Romero T. 93 304 1448

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Spaces for rent - PROPERTY

Go Spanish

Hotel Onix offer a range of rooms and spaces for rent at a low price. Perfect for a variety of classes and events like yoga, theatre, dancing, business meetings, seminars and rehearsals. They have different sized rooms at Liceu, Plaça Catalunya and Plaça Espanya that are both clean and comfortable with central heating, A/C, tables and chairs to suit your needs. You can rent their space by the hour, half or full day, weeks or months. For more information please call Jubran.

Get your Spanish off to a flying start this summer! Their experienced teachers have already helped many people to orientate themselves with the language and culture of Spain, and will help you gain the confidence to start speaking. You’ll learn how to: introduce yourself, go shopping, give and receive directions and talk about your family and hobbies. Book your place now for their July Intensive courses and qualify for a special 10 percent discount price for Metropolitan readers.

T. 93 303 4154

T. 93 237 0523

Benjamin Franklin -

Versión Original -

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL The Benjamin Franklin International School in Barcelona offers a differentiated American curriculum from nursery to grade 12, which includes English language preparation for college education, foreign language programs and learning support. It is fully accredited with strong academic programs, such as the American High School Diploma, Spanish Baccalaureate Certificate and the IB Diploma. It also has an active parent-teacher association and a welcoming global community. Martorell i Peña 9 T. 93 434 2380 F. 93 417 3633


Spanish for foreigners


The experienced teachers at Versión Original are thrilled to share their enthusiasm for the Spanish language and culture. This small city centre school, with classes of no more than 10 students, is devoted to languages, especially Spanish. There’s a great atmosphere here and a 5% discount for Metropolitan readers.

Gran Via 636, 1o 1a A Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 412 4576

One-to-One *reADer DisCount

BCN L.I.P. Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.

T. 93 318 6591

SPANISH CLASSES Learn exactly what you need with one-to-one Spanish classes in the office or at home. Focus your classes on the language and vocabulary that best serves you according to your own personal or professional needs. Business Spanish and small group classes are also available. Get confident in Spanish with Pilar.

M. 610 057 266

Kingsbrook -


Kingsbrook have been helping people learn Spanish in a simple, pleasant and fun way since 1985. The school is located in the heart of Barcelona and has a team of experienced and dedicated staff. In order to create an optimal learning environment, the school ensures that classes have only between 7-10 students.

Study Spanish in one of Spain’s most established and prestigious language schools. Since 1982 Metropol have provided high-quality language training to students of all nationalities. The school is right in the heart of Barcelona city centre and it’s a great place to learn or improve your Spanish. It’s a popular and specialised school, with more than 27 years of experience and they offer great value Spanish courses for all levels.


Trav. de Gràcia 60 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) T. 93 209 3763

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T. 93 301 8241 Pau Claris 87, 1o1a Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4)

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MULTIMEDIA LANGUAGE SCHOOL Idiomplus offers a revolutionary new method of learning languages by utilising social media as an additional online tool so you can learn the content you are most interested in. Their courses are designed especially for professionals, entrepreneurs and managers who require the command of new languages. By practising with relevant content and conversations that fit your interests and work needs you will quickly be able to put your new skills into practical use. T. 93 445 1791 Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 583 5ª

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 606 308 932

Guitar lessons - MUSIC Alen holds Master of Music and Bachelor of Music degrees in guitar performance, and has been teaching all levels of guitar for over 18 years. He accepts students for private or online/ Skype lessons. His students have been top prize winners in numerous guitar competitions and have gone on to earn performance degrees at major universities throughout Europe.

T. 652 477 269

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Mrs.Q design studio - GRAPHIC DESIGN Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services from branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations. Whether you have a new concept in mind that you want to see brought to life or need assistance rebranding your company, contact Mrs.Q design studio. They are happy to help you every step of the way to make sure you get the exact look you’re looking for. They specialise in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Match your wedding invitations with save the dates, menus, place cards and thank you cards to create a polished look. At Mrs.Q design studio they love to design creative, engaging brand identities that help their clients flourish. They will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use their knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative flair to create an identity that engages your customers.

M. 699 260 938

Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE NEW! NEW! NEW! Not allowed a satellite dish? Now we can supply all your favourite UK TV channels including all sports and films over the internet. No dish needed! Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability. For a personal, efficient and friendly service call the specialists. Our professional team provides satellite television from across Europe at unbeatable prices!

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832

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Want to watch UK television? Smartsat was set up in 2002 to offer people living in Spain the choice of watching their favourite UK TV channels including the BBC, ITV, Channel 4, Five and the entire FreeSat platform. They have since gone from strength to strength and have installed systems for hundreds of satisfied customers. They’ll build a package perfect for you, whether it’s an individual satellite installation for your home, or multiple installations for offices. Based in Barcelona, the team can go to homes and businesses across Catalunya. Choose from a variety of packages including Standard, Plus (integrated hard drive) and Plus HD (High Definition). A full after-sales service is available and all of the equipment provided is guaranteed. Get in contact with Smartsat today, for all of your satellite needs.

Tired of being out the loop on the best documentaries or are you a secret soap fan? Or, maybe you’re just missing your favourite television programmes from home. There’s no need to miss out anymore—now you can see all of your favourite channels here in Barcelona! Europa Digital are licensed and fully insured to install all satellite systems, including a whole range of channels from BBC HD, Freesat, itv hd, Sky, Sky 3d, Sky Sports and many more. They can also supply all European systems and viewing cards. They were the first company to start operating in Catalunya and, as well as private installations, they have worked for hotel groups and put multi-systems in apartment blocks.The experienced and professional team give friendly advice to ensure that you receive the best package to suit your needs. They are the only company of their kind with a registered office and a 24-hour helpline. Visit their showroom before you buy or call them now for a free quotation. They are fully licensed and insured.

M. 610 092 848

Floridablanca 78 Metro: Sant Antoni (L2) T. 93 325 1797 M. 666 556 452 Sant Josep, 32, Sitges T. 93 894 72 99

Spain Accounting -

Tax AND Accounting services


Qualified UK accountant with 25 years experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service Call David Cook 678 702 369


Brumwell Brokers -


BritSat offer great television packages so you’ll never have to miss your favourite TV programmes again. Craving a bit of classic comedy, your favourite soap or just fed up of feeling out of the loop of the best TV at home? BritSat will install the full package you choose for a great price. Take your pick from some of the best television in Europe as they install British, Dutch, German, Italian and French satellite TV. The team will create tailor-made installations to suit your requirements, always aiming to find the most discreet location for the dish and cables. BritSat provides excellent customer care and can also incorporate sound systems and multi-screen viewing.

They not only care about your wellbeing, they “insure” it. With over 20 years of experience under their belts they can help you with all your insurance needs. Working with most insurance companies they guarantee you the best quote and best cover for what you need. They can even insure your bicycle!! Brumwell Brokers’ service team can also help you with tax, accounting, legal and labour laws. (Set ups, Autonomos).

M. 649 605 917

Pl. Gal-la Placidia 1-3 08006 T. 90 262 7810 F. 90 262 7811

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Don’t wait until it’s too late! Do you feel secure in Barcelona? Are you still insured in your home country? Do you travel? Spanish not fluent yet? Do you want to feel safe and carefree in Barcelona no matter what? Cogesa makes sure to find you personalized and price worthy insurance solutions for your every need. We also speak Dutch, Swedish, Finnish, German and French.

Whether you need car insurance, building and contents house insurance, health, life or travel insurance, Dragon’s Insurance’s friendly staff are always ready to help and give you the best advice on insurance in Spain. With multilingual staff speaking English, Spanish and German, there is always somebody ready to help you with your individual needs. Their prices are absolutely unbeatable.

Diputació 262 T. 93 342 4896

T. 96 649 3762 F. 96 649 3998

Legal Practice A&E -

Sánchez Molina -



- Commercial/Civil law. - Contracts: lease, contract of sale etc. - Corporation Establishment. - Taxes: IVA, IRPF, Companies Tax. - Legal defence. - Construction and Insurance law. They speak English.

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Passeig de Gràcia 118, ppal, 08008 T. 93 125 8799

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669

Green Bean Coaching BUSINESS Coaching

Scan the QRS code for a short video clip of why business coaching may just be the answer you need. Green Bean coaches small and medium-sized business owners and entrepreneurs proven business techniques that have helped thousands of businesses boost their sales, increase profits and hit their company goals. They will coach you to implement the strategies you need to move to the next business level.

T. 93 268 9544 M. 693 940 701


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This company provides assistants who can help you with daily tasks and provide language support if you are not confident speaking Spanish. You can delegate your chores, however large or small, to their staff with total confidence, giving you complete confidence and peace of mind about the organisation of all your appointments and events. They have impeccable references from their clients. Contact them today to discuss your requirements.

The Spectrum IFA Group creates and provides financial planning solutions for expatriates and foreign residents. Their experienced and qualified team in Barcelona can help you with all aspects of finance including: • Pensions/ Retirement Planning • Savings & Investments • Life Cover • Health Insurance • Currency Exchange • Mortgages • Tax Planning • Asset Management They are regulated financial planners with offices in seven European countries, dedicated to providing the best advice and solution for each individual client. Please email or call them to arrange an initial, no-obligation introductory meeting.

Ganduxer nº14, Desp 9 
08021 T. 93 539 6106
 M. 666 816 168

T. 93 665 8596 Passeig de Gràcia 63, Principal 2A

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he new wine temple in Born – a unique space in Barcelona offering a wide range of quality wines.

Opened this year, come and enjoy the cosy, local and well-laid-out bar, along with the stylish wooden interior with shelves full of original and interesting wines. A place to totally relax and disconnect. Affordable to all, the bar contains wines from all over the world, and specialises in Spanish, French and Portuguese wines. The waiters will happily explain the origin and characteristics of each wine, while the wine menu changes every 15 days so you’ll never get bored. To accompany the wines, the bar offers a variety of starters and main dishes. These include steak sautéed with pepper rolls, crispy Camembert with berry jam, a cheese platter and mi-cuit with figs and balsamic vinegar. Disset 17 also has a special range of gin and tonics and vodka tonics, as well as whiskeys, beers and other beverages.

Carrer Antic de St Joan 3, 08003 · Tel. 93 268 1987 · Open from Tue-Sun 7pm-2.30am

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Job directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: See also our online directory at

For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @WorkInBarcelona

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5/23/12 2:02:47 PM


Telesales & Telemarketing staff

Wanted english speaking experienced Telesales & Telemarketing staff to work from home. Must have pc and good internet connection. We will supply all working materials. Good basic & great commisions & bonuses.


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We are currently expanding our Scandinavian sales department and are looking for highly motivated sales people. You don’t have to be experienced in the sales field but you have to have the right attitude and a desire to become a good sales person. You have to be fluent in one of the following languages: Swedish, Norwegian, Danish or Finnish. Full time job. We offer a high fixed salary and great comission + bonuses. Please send your CV to

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5/23/12 2:01:11 PM

5/23/12 2:02:50 PM


Handbags at dawn


ou don’t often feel sorry for queens. The regal sort. There was Marie Antoinette, of course, and most of the wives of Henry VIII, and possibly Juana la Loca, if she counts. Though certainly not Isabella la Católica. And now Elizabeth II (of England) and Sofia (of Spain) Poor Liz and Soph. Just looking forward to a bit of a chinwag over the cucumber sandwiches and a slice of Madeira cake at the former’s Diamond Jubilee lunch, when Sofia was forced to cancel. Or not Madeira cake, perhaps, as it’s named after a liquor which is named after an island, which might bring the conversation on to that other ‘island’, the one everyone is kicking up a fuss about again. No, not the Falklands (though those too); Gibraltar. If they won’t give us Gibraltar, we don’t want their cake. It’s doubtful whether Sofia is particularly interested in the useless rock that clings to Andalucía like a barnacle to a beautiful yacht. She’s Greek, where they have plenty of islands, all of them prettier and most of them more useful than Gibraltar. Plus, she

was probably looking forward to hanging out with her fellow Greek, Prince Philip, to discuss the pros and cons of being married to a monarch; cons, mostly, in Sofia’s case, it seems. Or chatting to Liz about gaffe-prone husbands. On the other hand, having to turn down the invitation has given her role as consort a relevance it had been lacking recently. She’s suddenly politically important, or at least a politically useful pawn, rather than just a well-behaved cheerleader. It’s almost like having a job. By attracting attention to Gibraltar, she was also conveniently drawing attention away from her husband, who has been in the news for all the wrong reasons. This probably made the devastating disappointment of no tea at Buckingham Palace a lot easier to bear. Not because she was helping him out, but more that she was putting the boot in by doing the responsible thing for her subjects (in stark contrast to spending millions on shooting elephants in Africa, which is not a cause many people are likely to support).

But it’s nice to see someone else’s royal family commit the gaffes for a change. For too long, it’s been the Windsors who have been the butt of ridicule-filled headlines around the world. What is clear is that royalty is like any other brand, with its life cycles of rising and falling popularity. They go from beloved figureheads to benign duffers to buffoons with alarming speed. They can slow the general trend with a timely royal wedding or well-judged jubilee, but these are single-use trump cards. Once you’ve used them, it’s all about how young, dashing and eligible your next generation are perceived to be, against how rich, spoiled and stupid. A timely intervention like boycotting Britain is definitely going to play well with the gallery, though it’s difficult not to see the Gibraltar sideshow as a cynical attempt to detract from the wider problems of the economy, a crowd-pleasing attempt at sympathy and support. Which is fine, except it’s only a short step from there to public executions. And that’s never a comfortable time for royalty. --Roger de Flower

HOROSCOPE Aries It’s your month to shine and people will be very responsive to you. There are several changes happening in your life right now; you’ll become more secure in understanding what decisions to make.

Taurus You’re under pressure to

Gemini You’re doing lots of dreaming, planning and scheming for the future; things are beginning to happen so you may need to take some action. You’ll also want to spend quiet time with someone significant.

Cancer You still have plenty of energy and you would do well to invest it in your career, where things are really starting to happen. Take some time out to relax—a weekend in the countryside would be ideal.

Leo All the hard work that you’ve been doing is going to pay off. Some things you’ve been working on will finally start bringing in the money and earn you some acclaim at the same time. Life feels good—enjoy it!

Virgo You’re still busy, but

Libra People in committed relationships will be making important changes for the better with loved ones. You’ll also be getting the rest of your life in order, organising home, budgets and priorities.

Scorpio It’s time to address some imbalances in your life. You’ve been working hard but now it’s time to work smarter and get some fun back. You have plenty of energy, so now is the time to make the changes.

Sagittarius Romance is in the

Capricorn You’re focused on

Aquarius There’s lots going on this month and you seem to be at the centre of it all. Try to keep your cool and ask for help from a friend or colleague if you need it. Some quiet time in nature will help you keep the balance.

Pisces You want to treat your nearest and dearest, and the good news is that you’ll have the money to do so. You’re thinking about moving to a new location. Analyse your needs well before making any definitive decisions.

air and you’re also feeling a strong creative urge. Open your mind to new experiences and you’ll find life is full of fun again. You have a work-related task that will be very rewarding.

do a lot in a little time. Although you may feel like just hiding from it all, keep going as you will get a new burst of energy very soon. A little financial help will also be coming your way.

a big energy surge will mean that you’re more than up to the task. Take care of yourself too, though, and make some time for pleasure. There may be an interesting travel opportunity.

achieving financial security, and are not far from this. Invest some more time in planning, then you can relax and let yourself enjoy life. Single Capricorns may find romance.

scoop By Ben Rowdon

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5/22/12 2:12:31 PM

A real German beer garden in the centre of Barcelona

Information and bookings: Tel: 676 477 094 Email: Pl. Pius XII 4, 08028, Next to the hotel Princesa Sofia Monday to Sunday from 1pm to midnight

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‘Biergarten’ refers to the traditional German terraces where beer and sausages are served in a friendly and sociable outdoor area. The Hotel Princesa Sofia pays homage to this German custom to bring the most traditional Bavarian flavour to everyone in Barcelona. Live music, the most authentic atmosphere, typical Bavarian dishes, genuine German style decoration and excellent service by waiters and waitresses wearing traditional costumes from southern Bavaria and who are very familiar with the beer tradition and culture—all this makes it the only terrace in Barcelona that perfectly recreates the atmosphere and special characteristics of the original outdoor beer gardens in Germany. With the slogan “200-percent German”, the Biergarten celebrates its eighth season in high style. This is based on the high quality of the German products imported from Bavaria: the best local beer, real German sausages, traditional regional bread… Thanks to having such items on offer, each year, more and more people come to enjoy this original concept in Barcelona. Guests can try traditional dishes, such as Kartoffelsalat (German potato salad with onions, herbs and vinegar), Obatzda (delicious cheese soup seasoned with paprika) or different kinds of sausages, from the Bavarian speciality Weisswurst to the spicy Debrecziner. If you and your friends are sports fans, at the Biergarten you can also enjoy the sports broadcasts of the Spanish league games, the Champions League matches and the Olympic Games from London on giant TV screens, which, along with its traditional German products, make this event a real experience. The only ‘200-percent German’ terrace in Barcelona is an outdoor area where you can try authentic German sausages and dishes. Open every day from April to October, from 1pm until midnight, with meals always available.

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